Download Beauty Demands Sacrifices

HAIR COLOR
BRILLIANT BRUNETTE
Lead reacts with the –SH group in hair to form the
darkest lead compound, lead sulfide, galena. Using lead
to produce a dark hair dye was popular in ancient Italy
and the Middle East because people of these regions
were dark haired.
In the Middle Ages, a dark dye was achieved by
mixing equal parts of litharge, burnt lime, and chalk
into a thick paste. This paste was left in the hair
overnight. This practice allowed for prolonged
exposure to the lead in these hair dyes.11
FIERY REDHEAD
Lead compounds were also used to create a red dye. Pliny wrote of
a soap made from litharge of silver. This product was popular among
German men for the reddening of hair.
Sindur, red lead mixed with a red synthetic dye, is popular among
Hindu women even in contemporary times. In combination with this
dye, they use hair oils that enhance the effectiveness of the dye, but
also enhance the absorption of lead through the skin of the scalp. 11
SHEER BLONDE
White lead compounds
were used in dyes to
make hair bond. Dyeing
hair blonde was most
dangerous because it
required the longest
exposure to the dye.11
HAZARDS OF LEADED HAIR DYE
The addition of lead compounds into hair dye has been a common practice in ancient times and
continues into today. However, this practice is dangerous especially with lengthy exposure. Lead
compounds can be absorbed into through the skin of the scalp. The use of oily bases in dyes,
irritation reducers, or hair relaxers increase the ability of the skin to absorb lead compounds.
Furthermore, lead can be inhaled and absorbed into the body through the lungs during use of
such dye products. 11
Some cultures continue to use traditional recipes that are often hazardous to their health.
Furthermore, it is possible to find hair dyes containing lead acetate on the market. The only
restriction for these types of products is the addition of a caution statement and the listing of
lead acetate as one of the ingredients. Consumers must be aware of this and make an educated
decision concerning the use of such products. 7
BEAUTY DEMANDS SACRIFICES
LIPSTICK
Yevgeniya Primazova, Lead and Humanity: December 11, 2008
Lipstick use can be traced to ancient times more than 5000 years ago, however,
lead’s role in lipstick history is slim. Interestingly, it is today that lead has risen to
the status of an active and dangerous ingredient in lipsticks. In 2007, multiple brands
and types of lipsticks were tested for the presence of lead. Shockingly, it was found
that more than half of the tested lipsticks contained lead compounds and that
companies had not listed lead as one of the ingredients. Among the brands
indentified to contain lead were several lipsticks by L’Oreal and Cover Girl. Onethird of the lipsticks contained lead amounts exceeding the permissible limit for
candy. Lipstick is relatable to products such as candy, which imply direct ingestion of
lead. Lipstick is applied several times a day and is easily ingested and spread.
Furthermore, it is common for children to come in contact with lipsticks. 1,8
The presence of lead in popular lipsticks is a valid concern. The companies
releasing leaded lipsticks argue that the addition of lead is not hazardous. However,
lead in lipstick can be ingested while talking, eating, or simply licking your lips. A
common statistic is that women eat about four pounds of lipstick in a lifetime, and it
is known that no level of lead is safe! Studies have shown that adding lead to lipstick
is an unnecessary and avoidable problem. Furthermore, inclusion of lead is not
related to cheaper price of lipstick and that there are safe alternatives to the use of
lead, such as titanium dioxide. 1
Lead is a natural metal that is not readily available on the surface of the earth. When
living creatures come in contact with lead, lead builds up in the body and acts as a
poison. Mild symptoms of lead intoxication include hypertension, learning and
behavioral problems, and hearing acuity, later developing into a more severe poisoning
and leading to colic, decreased hemoglobin production, infertility, and death. Lead has
also been historically known to induce miscarriages. 4
Chronic lead poisoning stemming from cosmetic use was much more widespread
than is recognized. It has been proven that continuous use of leaded cosmetics can
induce lead poisoning over an extended period of time. 4 Some of the most common
lead compounds used in makeup products were galena, black lead; cerusse, white lead;
and minium, red lead. Out of these compounds, cerusse is the most easily absorbed,
although exposure to any lead compound may be hazardous.
Historically, cosmetic use can be compared to an addiction. Women began their use
of poisonous cosmetics in attempts to look more attractive. In turn, these cosmetics
caused them illness and depletion of beauty. This would cause women to be drawn to
cosmetic use even more in attempts to regain their lost beauty.
Historical cases of colic and other severe symptoms of lead poisoning that are
hypothesized to have come from the continuous and extensive use of cosmetics were
attributed to the consumption of stale foods or enemy attempts at poisoning. In the
seventeenth century, doctors became aware of the symptoms of lead poisoning and
realized that cosmetic use may often be the cause of these symptoms. In their search
for cures, such remedies were created as the popular asparagus mask, consisting of
white bread soaked wit the milk and pulp of asparagus. Unfortunately, this method
rarely worked and those suffering from poisoning almost never survived. 6
The most common pathways through which lead compounds can be absorbed into
the body include: the lungs, the mouth, and the skin. Lead compounds can be inhaled
when in powder form or through released vapors. Small lead particles can travel
directly to the alveoli, where they are quickly absorbed into the blood stream. Lead is
ingested into the body through the mouth. This pathway has become uncommon,
although recent studies have shown that it is the main pathway for lead absorption
from leaded lipsticks. Finally, organic lead compounds can be absorbed through the
skin. The use of oils in combination with leaded products increases absorption, while
broken skin allows for the intake of all lead compounds. 4
CONCEALER AND BLUSH
MASCARA AND EYELINER
CONCEALER
The popularity of a chalk-white face, obtained with the use of cerusse-based cosmetics, began in
ancient Greece. This fashion statement later spread to ancient Rome. It became extremely common in
China, Japan, and medieval Europe and remained popular for centuries around the world.4,9,11
Commonly, white lead makeup was used to enhance the skin tone, cover pockmarks, freckles and
other skin defects. Ancient Egyptians used while lead for these purposes as well as to clear complexions
of blemishes with the help of lead’s poisonous, and thus antibacterial, properties. 6,9,11
It is hypothesized that England’s Queen Elizabeth I’s extensive use of cerusse-based makeup led to
her receding hairline. The lead in these cosmetics may have caused the death of the hair that it came in
contact with. However, instead of serving as a sign of a possible health hazard, Queen Elizabeth’s
hairline started a new fashion trend and soon all English women desired to recede their hairline at all
costs. 4
BLUSH
Ancient Greeks were the ones to start the use of red lead to
create a blush. However, in the Middle Ages, bright blush became a
sign of vulgarity and was only used widely by prostitutes. This
lowered its popularity. However, the use of white cosmetics
remained extremely popular.6
WHAT IS BEING DONE?
Even though the hazard of including lead in
lipstick has been presented, cosmetic products are
still not being revised by the FDA and it has not set a
limit for the permissible amount of lead in lipsticks.
Furthermore, the FDA does not have a law under
which it can remove dangerous cosmetic products
from the market.1,3
Since the FDA does not have the authority to
regulate cosmetic products, the government needs
to take this problem into its hands. But before it
does, consumers need to be aware of this problem
and try to bring it to the attention of the authorities.
HAZARD FOR NURSING INFANTS
White lead was occasionally used on the breasts in ancient times to
enhance sex appeal. This was quite dangerous when used by
breastfeeding women as it greatly exposed their young children to
lead in the makeup. For more than 200 years, nursing infants had
suffered from what was considered to be a form of tuberculous
meningitis.11 In 1923, lead compounds in toiletries used by Japanese
nursing women were found to be the cause of the severe lead
poisoning in infants. The symptoms suffered by these children
included basophilic stippling of red blood cells, discoloration of teeth,
Burton’s lead line on gums.10
HAZARDS OF LEADED CONCEALER AND BLUSH
Lead can be absorbed into the body from leaded concealer and
blush through the skin. Also, when applied to the face, lead is in
proximity to mucous membranes and can easily be absorbed through
them. Furthermore, leaded makeup can be inhaled and got absorbed
into the body through the lungs.11
Egypt is considered to be the origin of cosmetics. The trademark of Egyptian makeup is unarguably their heavy, dark eyeliner.
Egyptians used kohl, a paste containing galena, as eyeliner. Leaded makeup was also used by the Romans, in the Middle East,
in South Asia, and North America. Some culture continue to use leaded eye makeup today. 5,12
Kohl is an eye makeup usually made from
galena powder and a fatty matter to make a
paste. It was found in Egypt in ancient graves,
lower Indus Valley, and pre-Columbian North
America. 5
In Egypt, it was used to provide protection
against eye disease, due to lead’s
antibacterial properties, and to make the
eyes seem larger and brighter. It was this
makeup that was used to create the renown
Egyptian look, which can be seen in the
image of Queen Nefertiti. 4
Ancient Egyptians wore this makeup from
early childhood and were definitely exposed
to the lead in kohl. Furthermore, the artist
preparing the makeup ran a high risk of
exposure due to the necessity to create
galena powder.5,12
Similarly to the Egyptians, kohl makeup was used by African and Middle
Eastern cultures and is still used today. Different cultures have a variety of
variations on the name of the black makeup, but the most common names
for this makeup are kohl and surma. It is used to darken the eyelids, as
mascara, and to darken the eyebrows. It is often used to accentuate other
customs, such as traditional tattooing. Traditional use of kohl makeup can
be observed in the image beneath.2
It can be argued that the popularity of this dark makeup stems from the
need to protect the eyes from the harsh sun. Before sunglasses were
invented, dark makeup helped shield the eyes. Also, the use of black
makeup was believed to have the ability to prevent the spreading of the
Evil Eye. In order to protect their newborn and young children, women
often painted them with black makeup.2,13
HAZARDS OF LEADED EYE MAKEUP
Makeup Preparation:
Preparation often includes
powdered galena. Powder is easily
inhaled and can travel directly into
the bloodstream.
Makeup Use:
Absorption of lead is increased
when put near the eyes. The eyes are
very close to mucous membranes
through which lead can be absorbed.
Furthermore, ocular skin is very thin
and absorbs lead more readily.
Prolonged use of leaded eye makeup
can lead to a serious problem.11,13