Download READING ATHENS – `Our Town` 1 The ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

ATHENS ROUTES
OUR TOWN final
READING ATHENS – ‘Our Town’
1 The ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE OF THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM – ‘Once upon a time
…’
Under the modern edifice an Athenian neighbourhood is … revealed to us. In a location with
age-long human inhabitance, ancient streets, petit houses with atria, shops and workshops weave
a dense urban fabric. The arbitrary expansion, which is so typical of Athens, will endure with
subtle variations until the advent of the great luxurious villas from the Roman times onwards.
Amongst the remains lies a complex that dates back to the 7th century A.D. with a circular
chamber and a triconch guest room.
Take a closer look at the ‘ACROPOLIS’ METRO STATION and the STATUE OF GENERAL
MAKRIYANNIS
In the subterranean exhibition we will get to know more about the neighbourhood, which
flourished in late antiquity and the early Byzantine era and again in the middle Byzantine period
only to gradually decline later. The statue of the General, which has been erected in the quarter
that was named after him, is an excellent introduction … to its recent history.
2 ANAFIOTIKA (1847-63) - Stemming from our local tradition
Whitewashed little houses with terraces and colourful doors and windows, winding alleys,
blossoming pots and lazy cats make up an idyllic … Cycladic scenery situated at the foot of the
Sacred Rock. What is left of this random settlement of the islander craftsmen who contributed to
the building of neoclassical Athens is today a listed section of the book of the city. Streets
without name and unnumbered houses, built by the anonymous keepers of the wisdom
encompassed in vernacular architecture bestow upon the modern city a different face.
3 The MONUMENT OF LYSICRATES (335-4 B.C.) and TRIPODON STREET – On …
drama
The charming cylindrical edifice with the sculpted frieze is the best preserved choragic
monument being located in one of the most important streets of the ancient city, which linked the
Agora with the sanctuary and the theatre of Dionysus where the famous theatrical festivals were
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held. During the Ottoman occupation the so-called ‘Lantern of Diogenes’ turned into a chapel
and then into the library of the Capuchin monastery that was established in the area, whereas
Plaka district sprawled around the monument.
Take a closer look at
… something to suit every taste: it is the first building in the city that integrates the Corinthian
order into the facade; the monastery that was later built provided lodging to eminent
philhellenes, whereas in its garden tomato cultivation was introduced into this country for the
first time ever; later in the square that surrounded the monument there was a permanent
Karagiozis lot – besides, it was Plaka where this folklore shadow theatre spectacle first
appeared.
4 The CHURCH OF HAGIA AIKATERINI (11th-12th c.) – Adaptations, additions and
extensions
This Byzantine domed cross-in-square church was built on the site of an early Christian edifice
that was based on an ancient shrine, possibly to celebrate goddess Artemis. There was a Roman
bath-house in the courtyard and today a section of a building of that time still lives on. The
church was initially dedicated to Hagioi Theodoroi, but was renamed when it was ‘annexed’ by
the Holy Monastery of Saint Catherine at Sinai. After the Greek War of Independence the halfruined church was repaired and extended to serve as parish of the increased congregation of the
neighbourhood.
5 PLAKA: FILOMOUSOU ETAIREIAS SQUARE – Core …idea
It is the oldest district of Athens that encapsulated the city during the Ottoman rule; it became the
heart of the new capital and was associated with emblematic figures and classic images of the
book of Athens. Plaka was seriously endangered in the postwar years with the increased
development of the tourist and entertainment industry and therefore was listed as an urban entity.
Its modern nucleus is the square with the historic name, which has long been associated with all
sorts of leisure, from carnival revelry to open-air cinema.
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Between the lines and beyond words
The old, as its name possibly denotes, district is today confronted once again with similar
threats. Let’s talk about how different utilities can be balanced and also how the past of the
neighbourhood can coexist with its present and future …
KYDATHINEON STREET – Parallel con-texts
As we walk along the ‘Wide Lane’ of old Athens we will come across some interesting spots: a
Byzantine church and museums as well as houses dating back to the years of Otto’s reign and to
the interwar period that have been associated with significant Greeks of our recent history, some
of them Athenians, some others not …
6 The PIREAUS BANK GROUP CULTURAL FOUNDATION (1801-90) and the
ANGELIKI CHATZIMICHALIS RESIDENCE (Aristotelis Zachos, 1924-7) – Alterations,
tradition and innovation
The original building that is ‘dressed’ in neoclassicism dates back to the years preceding the
Greek War of Independence. It was initially residence but, prior to its current renovated form,
and, because it served various uses, it underwent successive extensions and alterations in order to
meet the functions it was intended for each time. The Centre of Folk Art and Tradition is
sheltered in an ideal setting. The building was designed by a significant architect as residence of
the pioneer ethnographer. The edifice has been creatively infused with qualities of the interwar
style as well as the Byzantine and local tradition.
Take a closer look at the CHATZIMICHALIS RESIDENCE
The interior decoration and furniture have been inspired by the folk heritage of various parts of
the country and involved the skilled labour of local folk craftsmen and Angeliki Chatzimichalis
herself.
CHATZIMICHALIS STREET – Parallel con-texts
The surrounding buildings are more characteristic of the interwar style as expressed in Greek
architecture. We should be looking for continuous balconies, large openings, oriel windows art
deco balustrades …
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7 The CHURCH MANSION and SCHOLIOU STREET – Schooling … texts and more
The tower-house that was also used as Ottoman police outpost was slightly modified after the
Greek War of Independence, but nonetheless retained its character as fort. This robust structure
with scarce openings in the upper storeys later served also as a school. As for the street, that
reminds us of one of the basic ingredients, which a book of a city should have, owes its name to
one of the first purpose-built neoclassical edifices and contains today a ‘Dance School’.
THE OLD UNIVERSITY – Parallel con-texts.
The ‘Kleanthis Residence’ at the foot of the Acropolis, which was an older building the famous
architect converted so as to house the nascent University of Athens, today serves as a museum.
Other historic schools in Plaka are still buzzing though with students …
8 HAGIOS NIKOLAOS RAGKAVAS (mid-11th c. later additions) – Sacred and official …
scriptures
This elegant church with the noble name replaced an earlier ecclesiastical edifice that was
possibly built on the site of an ancient sanctuary as indicated by the architectural fragments of
ancient buildings that have been embedded in its structure. It was initially a private church,
which later became a parish that comprised the nucleus of a significant Byzantine
neighbourhood. The original cross-in-square edifice with the Athenian dome was subject to
subsequent interventions that mainly consisted in the building of a chapel and galleries during
the 19th century that were accessed via a stairway in the small yard.
Take a closer look at
The interior of the church is full of surprises awaiting us as long as we are observant: what is
hanging over our heads, what is secreted in the altar, what else is fascinating? *
Between the lines and beyond words
Times may change, but some places remain sacred: this is a recurring phenomenon in the book
of Athens that would deserve some further insight, much like the multifaceted role its churches
have played in the life of the city until fairly recently …
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9 The BENIZELOS MANSION (1501-1700, interventions carried out in the mid-18th c.) – Text
… analysis
The high stone fence that surrounds the mansion of this potent family revives the ambience of
bygone eras. This is one of the oldest buildings of Athens that consisted of two smaller structures
being integrated into one edifice with the addition of an upper storey. On the ground floor
ancillary spaces revolved around the courtyard, whereas the upper storey contained the living
and reception quarters arranged behind the hayat with large openings that were later glazed. The
restored monument has now turned into a museum.
Take a closer look at ADRIANOU STREET
The street that was once called ‘the Lane of Chrysaliotissa’ was the first paved street in Athens.
It used to be a hub with numerous retail shops, ministries, embassies and fashionable hotels.
Today the main street of Plaka is primarily a tourist attraction.
Take a closer look at the GYMNASIUM OF DIOGENES
On the archaeological site amidst finds of various epochs survives a section of the Late Roman
wall, which was made up of building material coming from earlier structures. This historic
district is one of the most compactly written chapters of the book of Athens!
10 PLATANOS SQUARE and … TRADITIONAL TAVERNS – Days of our lives
The legendary plane that dominated the paved square no longer exists, yet the tavern that was
named after the tree and which is one of the oldest and most authentic of their kind is still run.
This former soap factory has been the haunt of artists and scholars just like the homonymous
café across the street. The first taverns that were synonymous with the neighbourhood had
benches around oblong tables and the barrels that were full of retsina wine were indispensable;
simple delicacies and guitar playing were amongst the necessary ingredients.
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Take a closer look at
For the group of artists that rented the attic over the tavern during the interwar period the
picturesque square was the setting for their daily life and work. With a bit of research we’ll get
to know their names! **
HOUSES ON ERECHTHEOS STREET – Parallel con-texts
Lined up on steps the modest ‘folk neoclassical’ houses vividly manifest how neoclassical
architecture and local tradition merged, thereby creating authentic Greek works. Similar
pictures survive in other Athenian neighbourhoods too …
11 The CHURCH OF GORGOEPIKOOS (end of 12th c.) and the CATHEDRAL OF
ATHENS (Theophil Hansen, Dimitris Zezos and Francois Boulanger, 1842-62) – A fresh
anthology and a … collective project
Built on the site of an ancient sanctuary the novel Byzantine church of Panagia Gorgoepikoos,
also known as the Little Cathedral, is a three-dimensional jigsaw puzzle made up of spolia and
sculptural fragments from earlier buildings. The imposing new Metropolitan Cathedral was
erected on the site of the cathedral of the Ottoman period and blends neoclassical and Byzantine
features, a fact which results from the change of plans and architects. A little farther, the city
gradually takes on its familiar face, letting us set aside its book…
MITROPOLEOS SQUARE – Between the lines and beyond words
The ancient Greek themes depicted on about 90 marble reliefs which comprise the exterior walls
of Gorgoepikoos acquire new meaning, and together with their Christian equivalents
communicate the beliefs of the new religion. After King Otto was expelled the church was
dedicated to Hagios Eleftherios. The new Cathedral was dedicated to the Annunciation of the
Virgin Mary and from its inception through to its completion its name as well as its location
changed. A statue that has been erected in the square entails symbolic connotations of another
historic capital of Hellenism …***
If, on the other hand, we choose to follow our own ‘reading routes’ into the labyrinth of Plaka,
we will come to the sensible conclusion that the haphazard expansion of the ancient city has
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bequeathed us a heritage spanning thousands of years. Besides, the way the ordered new capital
grew correlates directly with the street layout of ‘our little city’.
In the book of a city chaos and order can interact; the question is that the end result remains
useful and pleasing.
Interpretation ‘keys’
* Among the distinguished features of the church are the ancient capital that supports the altar
and the historic bell at the narthex which was associated with the liberation of Athens from the
Turks and, after a century, from the Germans.
** The artists were the painters Periclis Vyzantios, Pavlos Kalligas and the sculptor Fokionas
Rok.
*** Reference is made to the monument of Constantine Palaeologos
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