Download romans in cumbria

View across the Solway from Bowness-on-Solway.
Cumbria Photo
Hadrian’s Wall Country boasts a spectacular
coastline, stunning rolling countryside, vibrant
cities and towns and a wealth of Roman forts,
museums and visitor attractions.
ROMANS IN CUMBRIA
HADRIAN’S WALL AND THE
COASTAL DEFENCES
The sites detailed in this booklet are open to the public and are a great
way to explore Hadrian’s Wall and the coastal frontier in Cumbria,
and to learn how the arrival of the Romans changed life in this part
of the Empire forever.
Many sites are accessible by public transport, cycleways and footpaths
making it the perfect place for an eco-tourism break.
For places to stay, downloadable walks and cycle routes, or to find food
fit for an Emperor go to:
www.visithadrianswall.co.uk
If you have enjoyed your visit to Hadrian’s Wall Country and want
further information or would like to contribute towards the upkeep
of this spectacular landscape, you can make a donation or become a
‘Friend of Hadrian’s Wall’.
Go to www.visithadrianswall.co.uk for more information or text
WALL22 £2/£5/£10 to 70070 e.g. WALL22 £5 to make a one-off donation.
Published with support from DEFRA and RDPE. Information correct at time
of going to press (2013).
Produced by Anna Gray (www.annagray.co.uk)
Designed by Andrew Lathwell (www.lathwell.com)
The European Agricultural Fund
for Rural Development:
Europe investing in Rural Areas
visithadrianswall.co.uk
Hadrian’s Wall and the Coastal Defences
Hadrian’s Wall is the most important
structure built by the Romans in Britain. It
was constructed on the orders of Emperor
Hadrian to mark the northwest limit of
the Roman Empire and to control the
passage of people and goods across
the border.
Hadrian’s Wall and the defences along the
Cumbrian coast are part of the ‘Frontiers of
the Roman Empire’ World Heritage Site. The
physical evidence represents the legacy of one
of the greatest and most influential Empires
the world has ever seen and the remains
are among the finest and best preserved
anywhere in the world.
The ‘Frontiers of the Roman Empire’ World
Heritage Site was inscribed by UNESCO in 2005
and includes Hadrian’s Wall, the German Limes
and the Antonine Wall in Scotland.
In the AD 70s, well
before Hadrian built his
famous Wall, the
Roman army advanced
into northern Britain.
The first forts along
the Cumbrian coast
were probably
established at this time to
protect a chain of harbours
that supplied the army.
By the AD 80s the Romans controlled
much of what is now Scotland but had to
transfer troops to deal with problems
along the Danube River. The army fell back
to the isthmus between the Tyne and the
Solway and constructed a line of forts
along a military road – the Stanegate.
Hadrian’s decision to build the Wall was
part of his policy of consolidating the
Empire’s frontiers after he became
The Wall extended across the narrowest part
of the country − from Bowness-on-Solway in
the west to Wallsend in the east – a
distance of 80 Roman miles or 73
modern miles (117 km). From
the River Irthing to
Bowness, the Wall was
initially constructed of
turf and, along with the
coastal defences, may
have been the first part
of the frontier to be built
in response to threats from
native tribes.
Left: Coin of Emperor Hadrian
Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle-upon-Tyne
The military structures were highly
organised. Major forts were located 8.2
Roman miles (11.5 km) apart. Between these
were smaller fortlets (milecastles), one
Roman mile apart, with two small turrets or
lookout stations between every milecastle.
Communications were relayed using
beacons and semaphore signals. The
cross-section drawing below reveals further
defensive structures including the Vallum.
NORTH
Above: Section of Hadrian’s Wall near Birdoswald.
SOUTH
Hadrian’s
Wall
English Heritage/Robert Smith
Cover image: Swarthy Hill milefortlet 21.
Andrew Heptinstall
Emperor in AD 117. Evidence suggests he
inspected work on the Wall in AD 122.
Military
Road
Vallum
Above: Cross-section through Hadrian’s Wall, based on an original illustration by English Heritage.
Juliet Whitworth
1
As the coast was vulnerable to sea-borne
attack, the defences extended southwards
to Ravenglass. The coastal fortifications
were not linked by a wall but consisted of
separate forts, milefortlets and turrets
following the same defensive pattern as
on the Wall, with a road linking them
together. The fort and port at Ravenglass
was connected by road to forts at
Hardknott (Mediobogdum) and Ambleside
(Galava).
Above: Running dog brooch
inlaid with blue enamel
of the Empire. As well as the military
presence, each of the major forts attracted
a civilian settlement that sprawled out from
one or more of the main gateways.
Hadrian’s Wall was abandoned when the
new Emperor, Antoninus Pius, ordered an
advance into Scotland and the construction
of a new frontier made of turf, between
the Firth of Forth and Firth of Clyde – the
Antonine Wall. A generation later the army
had returned to the line of Hadrian’s Wall.
Following a major campaign north of the
Wall under Emperor Severus, the
northwest frontier was peaceful
compared with other parts of the
Empire for much of the third and early
fourth centuries.
Tullie House Museum & Art Gallery Trust, Carlisle
How long the coastal system remained in
use is uncertain. Many smaller structures
seem to have been abandoned shortly
after being built, but the main forts and
some milefortlets were in use for much
longer probably because of their
importance in supplying the frontier by sea.
The garrison included regiments of
auxiliary soldiers recruited from different
parts of the Empire. Along with merchants
and traders who arranged supplies for the
army, the northwest would have been a
multicultural area reflecting the diversity
2
1. Birdoswald (Banna)
(GR. NY615663)
One of the best preserved forts along
Hadrian’s Wall. The partially excavated
site clearly shows the outlines of the
fort, its gated entrances and internal
granaries. The east gate is one of the best
preserved on the Wall, with
a particularly fine section
of Hadrian’s Wall nearby
(easily accessible from the
car park). West of the
fort a section of the turf
wall is clearly visible,
whilst a magnificent
view over the Irthing
Gorge can be
gained by walking
up the hill from
the south gate.
Troubles began again in the fourth century
as the Empire faced increasing instability on
all frontiers. Centralised administration of
Britain from Rome ended around AD 400.
Evidence suggests many of the forts along
Hadrian’s Wall were occupied into the fifth
and sixth centuries possibly providing the
power base for local warlords seeking
control and security in the absence of
centralised power. Over time Hadrian’s Wall
and the coastal defences fell into disuse,
with the stones re-used in other buildings.
Left: Statue of Fortuna
found in the commandant’s
house at Birdoswald
Juliet Whitworth
Above: Birdoswald Roman Fort
Andrew Heptinstall
Regiments from Dacia (modern Romania)
and Thracia (modern Bulgaria) were based
at Birdoswald in the early 3rd century AD.
By the 5th century, the north granary
had become the site of a large timber
building, probably a hall, suggesting the
continued use of the fort site as a base
for a local warlord.
Small visitor centre, gift shop and
tearoom. Admission charge.
www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/
birdoswald
Below: Willowford Bridge
Roger Clegg
Above: Reconstruction of Birdoswald Roman Fort
English Heritage
www.visithadrianswall.co.uk
3
2. B
anks East Turret and
Pike Hill Signal Tower
4. Carlisle (Luguvalium)
(GR. NY396561)
(GR. NY574647)
The excavated foundations of this turret
and a stretch of Roman wall are among
the first tangible remains of Hadrian’s Wall
in Cumbria (if travelling west to east). To
the south, the line of the Vallum can be
made out. A short walk away is Pike Hill
signal tower. This watchtower pre-dates
Hadrian’s Wall but was incorporated into
it as the Wall was being built – hence
the offset alignment of the base stones.
The panoramic views from both sites are
stunning.
Free access. Adjacent car park.
Nearby Lanercost Priory was founded c.1169
and is largely built of stones from Hadrian’s Wall.
Admission charge.
www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/lanercost
Lanercost Tearoom is adjacent to the priory and
has a large car park.
Below: Reconstruction of Pike Hill signal tower
Based on an illustration by English Heritage,
redrawn by Juliet Whitworth.
Above: Bewcastle Church with the Anglo-Saxon cross to the right.
Anna Gray
3. Bewcastle (Fanum Cocidii)
(GR. NY565747)
This was an outpost fort, built six miles
(10 km) to the north of Hadrian’s Wall.
The most distinctive feature of this fort
is its hexagonal shape. Unusually, the
bath house is situated within the fort’s
southeast corner (normally it is found
outside the fort’s perimeter). A
regiment from Dacia (Romania)
was based here in the 2nd century.
The fort has been the focus of
community life in Bewcastle
for 2000 years with a church,
motte and bailey castle and
a farm all located within
the perimeter.
Free access.
St Cuthbert’s Church dates to the
13th century. Its graveyard holds one
of the finest Anglo-Saxon crosses
in Britain, referred to by the scholar
Nikolaus Pevsner as one of the
greatest achievements of its date in
the whole of Europe. Dating from the
late 7th century, the cross has runic
inscriptions, ornamental reliefs and
three figures depicting Christ, John
the Baptist and probably St John the
Evangelist. Free access; donations
welcomed. Car park in front of
the church.
4
Right: Bewcastle Cross with its finely carved stonework
The Roman fort of Luguvalium (‘fort
of Lugh’) at Carlisle was established in
AD 72 on a site between the castle and
Tullie House Museum. It became the
focus for a thriving civitas, complete
with forum, temples and baths.
Following the decline of centralised
Roman rule in Britain, Luguvalium
continued as an administrative centre,
reverting to its Celtic name of Caer Luel
(later corrupted to ‘Carlisle’).
A second fort (Uxellodonum) was built
at Stanwix. This was the largest fort on
the Wall. It housed a 1000-strong cavalry
regiment called the Ala Petriana – a crack
force of Roman soldiers trained for rapid
deployment along this section of Hadrian’s
Wall.
Hadrian’s Wall Path National Trail follows
the south bank of the river Eden in Carlisle
and is accessible through Bitts Park.
Tullie House Museum and Art Gallery is built
partly over Luguvalium. The new underground
Roman Frontier Gallery tells the story of 400
years of occupation on the Roman Empire’s most
northerly frontier. The interactive and familyfriendly displays invite visitors to consider the
effect of Roman rule on Britain and the impact
of constructing a frontier on native people
through comparisons with modern frontiers and
barriers across the globe. Other Roman finds
from Luguvalium are on display elsewhere in the
museum. Admission charge. Café and gift shop.
www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/tulliehouse
Carlisle Castle also straddles over the fort
and Roman stonework can be seen in its
masonry. First constructed at the end of
the 11th century, the castle was a major
strongpoint on England’s border with
Scotland and saw many sieges and
battles, the most important being
during the second Jacobite uprising
against George II of Great Britain in
1745. Admission charge.
www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/
carlislecastle
Above: Circular openwork
mount with Jupiter’s eagle at centre
Tullie House Museum & Art Gallery Trust, Carlisle
Above: Carlisle Cathedral
Cumbria Photo
Carlisle Cathedral is built largely of Roman
stones taken from the fort, which contrast
starkly with the red sandstone of later
building work. The Cathedral was built
in the 11th century and the choir rebuilt
in the 13th century. At its eastern
end is the largest and most complex
decorated Gothic window in
England, which retains much of its
original stained glass. Free access;
donations welcomed.
www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/
carlislecathedral
Left: A relief of Mercury found in Stanwix, Carlisle
Tullie House Museum & Art Gallery Trust, Carlisle
www.visithadrianswall.co.uk
5
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ROMANS IN CUMBRIA
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with public access 41
Hadrian’s WallRoman site with
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7
5. Beaumont
6. Burgh-by-Sands (Aballava)
8. Bowness-on-Solway (Maia)
(GR. NY348593)
(GR. NY329591)
(GR. NY223627)
The medieval church of St. Mary’s stands
on the site of a 12th century Norman
motte and bailey castle, which in turn was
built on top of a Roman turret. The square
building stones of the church are clearly
Roman in origin. Inside are information
panels describing the history of the site
and surrounding area.
The cavalry fort of Aballava underlies the
eastern end of Burgh-by-Sands. It was
built to guard a major crossing point
over the Solway Firth, and garrisoned
by regiments from northern Europe and
North Africa. The road follows the original
east−west access route through the fort.
The Roman fort of Maia (meaning ‘larger’)
lived up to its name as the second largest
fort on Hadrian’s Wall. It was built to
guard an important crossing point over
the estuary (the Bowness wath). The north
wall has since been lost to the sea, but the
original east−west passage through the
fort is followed by the present-day road.
A Roman road heading south to Kirkbride
has been identified in the field opposite
the church.
Free access. Donations welcomed.
Below: Stages in the development of Beaumont
Juliet Whitworth
Roman turret
Norman motte &
bailey castle
St Michael’s Church incorporates Roman masonry
in its construction. The 14th century tower was
built to provide a place of refuge for inhabitants
during Scottish raids. Note its thick walls, heavy
grid-iron door, Roman diamond hatching on
internal stones and the curious animal carvings
set into the wall. A series of interpretation panels
in the tower undercroft explain the history and
heritage of this fascinating village. Free access;
donations welcomed.
Burgh-by-Sands is strongly associated with
Edward I (the ‘Hammer of the Scots’). The ailing
king had made his way to Burgh-by-Sands to cross
over the Solway Firth to Scotland, but died on 7
July 1307. His body was laid to rest in St Michael’s
Church before being taken to Westminster Abbey
for burial. A monument was built on the spot
where he died (GR NY326609).
Above: Drumburgh Castle (not open to the public).
Roger Clegg
7. Drumburgh (Congabata)
(GR. NY265598)
A small fort at the western end of Burgh
Marsh was built to guard the Sandwath
crossing over the Solway. Nothing remains
of the fort today as the stones were looted
to build Drumburgh Castle.
The stones of the Pict Wal wer
pulled down to build Drumuygh.
For the Wal ys very nere yt.
John Leland, c.1542, Vol. vii, fol. 69
The imposing edifice of Drumburgh Castle once
commanded extensive views over Burgh Marshes.
The original tower house was built almost entirely
of stones from the fort and Hadrian’s Wall. See if
you can spot the two Roman altars from the road.
Church of St Mary
8
Above: Ceramic head of a female
found at Burgh-by-Sands
Tullie House Museum & Art Gallery Trust, Carlisle
Outline of
Roman Fort
St Michael’s
Church
Kings
Arms
Above: Outline of Roman fort of Maia overlying
present-day Bowness-on-Solway. Based on an original
map by Paul Austen.
Juliet Whitworth
The pavilion at The Banks marks the western
end of Hadrian’s Wall Path National Trail.
St Michael’s Church lies outside the southern
boundary of the fort and is built of Roman
masonry. The original bells were
stolen by Scottish raiders in the
17th century. Under pursuit, the
thieves jettisoned the bells in the
Solway Firth where they lie to
this day. In retaliation, Bowness
villagers took the bells from two
other churches in Scotland, which
can be seen at the back of the nave.
The highly ornate Norman font is a
church treasure worth close inspection.
Free access; donations welcomed.
Above: The Staffordshire Moorlands Pan bearing the
names of Maia (Bowness) and Coggabata (Drumburgh)
British Museum
www.visithadrianswall.co.uk
9
9. Kirkbride
(GR. NY229574)
The timber fort at Kirkbride marked the
western end of the Stanegate (an earlier
Roman road established about AD 105
under Emperor Trajan) and was linked by
road to the fort at Bowness-on-Solway.
The fort probably fell into disuse when
Hadrian’s Wall was built.
Kirkbride Church, dedicated to St Bride
(or St Bridget), is likely to be of Anglo-Saxon
origin. It is sited over the west gate of the fort
and contains Roman masonry in its construction.
Opposite the church is a narrow gulley or ‘wynd’
cutting through the western ramparts of the
Roman fort. This would have been used to bring
supplies into the fort from ships anchored in the
bay. Free access; donations welcomed.
Below: Reconstruction of Milefortlet 21.
Based on an original illustration by Kate Wilson
Juliet Whitworth
10. S
warthy Hill
(Milefortlet 21)
(GR. NY067400)
This is the only site along the Cumbrian
coast where the layout of a milefortlet is
clearly visible. The turf rampart and ditches
are easily recognisable, along with a road
cutting east−west through the centre.
Free access. Follow directional signs from
the cycle path then continue along the
footpath to the milefortlet.
Below the milefortlet are the remains of the
Crosscanonby saltpans. There were many
saltpans along the north Cumbrian coast, but the
ones at Crosscanonby (built c.1650) are among
the best preserved in England. Free access to site.
Crosscanonby Nature Reserve is a diverse mix
of habitats rich in bird and insect life. Circular walk
around site with interpretation panels. Free access
to site with adjacent car parking.
11. Maryport (Alauna)
(GR. NY038373)
This large fort is believed to have been
a major supply base for the northern
frontier. The fort and its large civilian
settlement to the north are located on
a hill with spectacular views across the
Solway to Scotland and the Isle of Man.
The site of the original Roman port is
not known but it may have been to
the northeast in a now silted-up inlet.
Alauna at Maryport was connected by
road to Derventio, the Roman fort near
Cockermouth.
Around 1870, a series of altars were
unearthed from pits outside the fort.
Recent excavations have revealed that
the altars had been re-used for the
foundations of a large timber building
constructed on the highest point of the
hill. The altars were dedicated to Jupiter,
king of the Gods, by the commanders of
the regiment garrisoned at the fort and
probably came from a nearby temple.
The altars may form part of an annual
series dedicated by officers and provide a
fascinating insight into the multicultural
nature of the
Empire and the
career paths
of its senior
officers and
administrators.
Officers at Alauna
came from Italy,
Provence (southern
France), Noricum
(modern Austria),
North Africa and
possibly Spain with
each officer commanding a regiment for
three to four years before moving on to a
new posting.
The adjacent Senhouse Roman Museum contains
the largest collection of altars (currently 23) ever
recovered from a single site, with most dedicated
to Jupiter. A watchtower provides extensive views
over the fort. Admission charge.
www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/senhouse
Above: Fine example of a
Roman samian bowl found near Maryport
Anna Gray
Above: Inscription to Jupiter. It reads: ‘To Jupiter, best,
greatest, Capitolinus, for the welfare of Antoninus
Augustus Pius. Postumius Acilianus, prefect of the First
Cohort of Dalmatians [set this up]’
Senhouse Roman Museum
Left: Altar to Jupiter
discovered at Maryport
in 1870
N
Juliet Whitworth
Above: Aerial view of the fort at Maryport
English Heritage
10
www.visithadrianswall.co.uk
11
13. Ravenglass (Glannaventa)
(GR. SD088959)
Ravenglass was an important Roman port
and supply centre for the inland forts.
From here a road ran inland, connecting
the forts at Hardknott (Mediobogdum)
and Ambleside (Galava). These forts may
have been built to control mining for lead
and silver in the mountains of the Lake
District, with Ravenglass providing the
port facilities for export by sea. The fort at
Whitley Castle (Epiacum) near Alston was
similarly constructed to control the supply
of lead and silver from mines in the North
Pennines (www.epiacumheritage.org).
Above: Reconstruction of
the Roman fort at Moresby
Ravenglass is best known today for its
bath house, the walls of which stand
nearly 13ft/4m high and are the highest
of any Roman domestic building in
northern Britain.
Juliet Whitworth
12. Moresby (Gabrosentum)
(GR. NX982211)
Situated to the north of Whitehaven,
Gabrosentum occupies a classic fort site
formed by a low promontory overlooking
the sea to the west. Regiments from
Thrace (modern Bulgaria) and northern
France were stationed here. The ramparts
are still visible in the field to the west
of the church.
St Bridget’s Church lies just outside the east gate
of the Roman fort, replacing an earlier AngloSaxon church; the solitary chancel arch being all
that remains of the earlier structure.
Little remains of the fort itself other than
some faint earthworks. However, recent
excavations are revealing further evidence
of Roman occupation at this site.
Free access. To reach the bath house,
cross the footbridge over the railway and
turn left on reaching the private road.
The bath house is a quarter of a mile
further along.
Nearby Muncaster Castle stands on an elevated
platform, thought to have been the site of a
Roman signal station. Admission charge.
www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/muncaster
The relative remoteness of Hardknott Fort
(Mediobogdum) on its spectacular rocky mountain
platform has helped preserve many of the
internal features, with the headquarters building,
commandant’s house, bath house and parade
ground all clearly visible. The fort was connected
to Galava at Ambleside by a Roman road over the
tortuous Hardknott and Wrynose passes.
Free access.
Below: Plan of Ravenglass bath house from the 1881 excavation.
Re-drawn by Juliet Whitworth
Nearby is Moresby Hall with its imposing classical
frontage added around 1620. This was the home
of the Moresby family and then of the influential
Fletcher family between 1576 and 1721. The
original hall was built of stone taken from the fort.
Moresby Hall is now a country guesthouse.
Free access.
Below: Roman soldiers re-enactment scene
English Heritage
Below: St Bridget’s Church at Moresby with old chancel
arch in foreground.
Hypocaust
Anna Gray
Changing area
N
walls found in 1881 but now buried
Below: Ravenglass bath house
Peter Hughes
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