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A self-guided architectural tour of Historical Port Elizabeth 1 A self-guided architectural tour of Historical Port Elizabeth Written by Stephen and Marianne Lear The historical central area of Port Elizabeth contains a wealth of old buildings. This is fairly logical as the city dates back to the arrival of the British settlers in 1820, and was for many years South Africa’s most important centre outside of Cape Town. At the end of the 18th century, the British, involved in their war against Napoleon, were concerned that the French might land in Algoa Bay to assist the Graaff-Reinet rebels. This lead to the establishment of a military post and a stone fort. A settlement, as yet unnamed, then grew up at the mouth of the Baakens River, which provided a source of fresh water. Algoa Bay, on which Port Elizabeth lies, was the closest feasible anchorage for ships on the way to the East and later for trading along the coast. This had been known for many years, being first entered by Bartholemeu Dias during his voyage of 1488. In 1576 it was given its name – Bahia da Lagoa – by the Portuguese cartographer Manuel Mesquita Perestrelo. Algoa Bay is very safe during the winter months when westerly winds prevail, but is extremely dangerous in spring when the winds change to easterly. In the days of sailing ships an easterly gale invariably resulted in ships being driven ashore and there are over 300 recorded wrecks. The great gale of September 1902 was the single most serious event, with 21 ships wrecked. But the major reason for the city’s development was the on-going conflict between the farmers of Dutch descent and the amaXhosa tribes on the frontier to the east. The military encampment at Grahamstown had been established in 1812 in an attempt to stabilise the situation and this needed supplies. As there were no practical roads to the Cape, this had to be done by ship using the Algoa Bay anchorage. In 1819 the British government decided to increase the population of the frontier region in an attempt to neutralise the amaXhosa threat. Over 4000 British settlers were recruited and transported in 23 ships to Algoa Bay. The first ship to arrive, in April 1820, was the “Chapman”. The arrival of the new immigrants was superintended by Sir Ruphane Donkin, the acting-governor, who named the settlement Port Elizabeth after his late wife Elizabeth. The new immigrants generated considerable trade and the town grew rapidly as a result. Port Elizabeth prospered as the major anchorage on the south and east coast during the 19th century and towards the end of the 19th century provided the emerging diamond and goldfields with access to the sea. This prosperity was reflected in the many fine buildings that were built. As a British colonial town, the city had a strongly British character, and the central area retains that to this day. Few of the buildings featured in this tour would be out of place in an English market town. The early major buildings were designed by engineers. This is not surprising as they were an essential part of the development of towns and therefore tended to take up official positions before architects. The first architect to set up practice in Port Elizabeth was probably George Dix-Peek. Although almost forgotten he made a substantial and lasting contribution to the city. Frederick Molesworth Pfeil was another early practitioner. Others who contributed were Smith and Dewar, Hubert Walker and William White-Cooper. The most important contribution to the city’s early 20th century architectural heritage probably came from the drawing boards of the firm of Jones and McWilliams, which was active from 1901. This firm was responsible for a significant number of the buildings to be seen on this tour. Enjoy the tour! 2 1. The Harbour Board Building This was built in 1904 as offices for the harbour administration. Designed by the firm of Jones and McWilliams, it is regarded as one of the best examples of “Art Nouveu” architecture in South Africa and has superbly ornamented interiors with wood carving and plaster mouldings. The “white building”, as it was also known, (it was for many years painted white) was the subject of an intensive and careful restoration by architect John Rushmere in 1990. 2. The Old Post Office Building This was opened in 1900. It was designed by the Public Works Department of the Cape Colonial Government under the direction of H S Greaves. The style is typical of late Victorian public buildings, but the roof of the tower is French in character. The stone post office building, faced with Paarl granite and local Coega stone, must be distinguished from the old magistrate’s court and police station to the west which it abuts. This plaster building was built before the post office and dates from 1885. It was also designed by the Public Works Department. 3. The Prester John Memorial Prester John was a mythical Christian ruler. The myth, which was popular in Europe from the 12th through the 17th centuries, told of a Christian patriarch and king said to rule over a lost Christian nation. At first, Prester John was imagined to reside in India. After the coming of the Mongols to the Western world, accounts placed the king in Central Asia, and eventually Portuguese explorers convinced themselves that they would find him in Africa. The Prester John memorial is the work of local sculptor Phil Kolbe and was unveiled in 1986. It commemorates the voyage of discovery of Bartholemeu Dias in 1498, which was the first visit of Europeans to Algoa Bay and was terminated just to the East of Algoa Bay and was largely inspired by the quest for Prester John. It consists of a large Coptic cross with a circle in which are seated symbolic figures of Prester John and a Portuguese navigator. 4. The Feathermarket Centre This was originally built as a market for the sale of ostrich feathers. The roof was designed by English engineer Sir John Wolfe-Barry, and the structure was prefabricated in England, being delivered in 1882. A building to fit the roof was designed by William Henry Miles, a consulting engineer appointed by the Council. The principal girders weigh 8 tons and the first was positioned in October 1883. The enormous wrought iron windows were made locally. In 1908 the Baakens Street façade, with offices behind, was added. It was designed by municipal engineer Arthur Butterworth. The hall was converted to the Feathermarket Centre in 1993, the main gallery being changed into a concert hall with the offices becoming the foyer. These alterations were handled by the municipal architects. 5. The Eastern Province Herald Building With its first issue published on 7 May 1845, The Eastern Province Herald is one of the oldest daily newspapers in the country. It moved into its present building on the corner of Military Road and Baakens Street in 1903. It is a solid three storey building with a corner 3 entrance and arched windows on the ground floor which has ashlar plaster decoration. The floors above are simpler but have heavy cornices. Just beyond the Eastern Province Herald Building are the old Phoenix Iron Works buildings that were built in 1882. They are the only remaining 19th century warehouse type buildings in this part of the city. Because of its proximity to the landing stage this area had many such buildings prior to 1900. 6. No 7 Castle Hill One of the oldest buildings in Port Elizabeth, this house was built for Rev. Francis McCleland soon after the land was granted to him in 1827. An excellent example of an early settler house, it is typical of the type of dwelling that was built in Port Elizabeth during the first 50 years of its development. It has a symmetrical façade and a T plan resulting from additions to the original house. It is now a Historical Museum and is furnished as it would have been in mid-nineteenth century. It is recommended that you pay the nominal entrance fee of R10.00 and visit the house. The back courtyard with a hand pump from the original reservoir is delightful. Across the road are the ‘Sterley’ cottages, no 10 and 12 Castle Hill. These were built about fifteen years after no 7 and are smaller single-storied dwellings. They were restored with alterations made in 1974 by architect Hubert Tanton. 7. The Drill Hall This was opened in 1882. The architects for the original hall were Storey and Wilson of the Railway Department and George Dix Peek was responsible for adding a first floor and the elaborate Prospect Hill elevation in 1893. The Drill Hall is the headquarters of the Prince Alfred’s Guard Regiment, one of the oldest volunteer regiments in the country. On display in the Drill Hall is the “miracle cannon”. This is the best preserved of the bronze cannons salvaged from the wreck of the Portuguese galleon “Sacramento” (wrecked at Schoenmakerskop in 1647) in 1978. It is a perfect example of the work of master cannon founder Pedro Dias Bocarro, who operated in Macao in the 17th century and was reputed to make the best cannons in the world. The “Sacramento” was carrying a cargo of his cannons back to Portugal. The example in the Drill Hall is superbly ornamented, with cherubs, dolphin shaped lifting shackles, crests of Macoa and the Governor of India and a cascabel decorated as a fertility symbol. The Drill Hall can be entered to view the cannon and other interesting historical military exhibits relating to the Prince Alfred’s Guard Regiment only when it is convenient to the on duty staff. 8. The Y W C A Building This handsome Victorian building with a fine veranda between the side gables was designed by Smith and Dewar and opened in 1906. It operated as a ladies hostel until the 1980’s when it became a Technikon hostel, and has more recently become the premises of Pagdens Stultings Attorneys who have maintained its original appearance. 4 9. The Athenaeum Building The Athenaeum Society was founded in the 1850’s to promote cultural activities. This building, funded by the Town Council to house the Society, was opened in 1896. It was designed by George William Smith and is considered a good example of late 19th century classicism which is rare in the city. There are subtle differences between the two parts of the façade, with the south having a distinctly Egyptian revival character. 10. Fort Frederick This stone fort was built in 1799, and overlooks the landing place at the mouth of the Baakens River. It was built by troops stationed in Algoa Bay for protection against raids from the Xhosas and to prevent a possible landing of French troops to assist the “rebels” in GraaffReinet, who wanted to declare independence from the Cape. It is the oldest British building west of Cape Town. (The concern about the French was not unfounded. Shortly before Fort Frederick was built a French frigate, the “Preneuse” entered the Bay and attacked the sloop “Rattlesnake” and the store ship “Camel”. The “Camel” was transporting a prefabricated wooden blockhouse from Cape Town, which was erected some months before Fort Frederick was commenced. Two English seamen were killed in the battle, which lasted some hours. The “Preneuse” then broke off the engagement and moved to shelter off St Croix Island and repair damage. She was later sunk off Mauritius.) 11. The Moorings Although a short distance away from the prestige area of gracious homes that developed in the Bird Street area, this is a fine example of one such house. It was built for William Messina in 1901. He owned a number of tug boats and the view of the sea from this site is probably the reason for him building here. The architect was George Dix-Peek. 12. The Grand Hotel This hotel was started in a large house, originally designed by Frederick Molesworth Pfeil, which was converted into a hotel in 1885. Two distinguished guests who stayed at the hotel were Mark Twain and Cecil Rhodes. The Whites Road side of the hotel was destroyed by a fire in 1996 but the remaining wing on the Prospect Hill side is a good example of 19th century hotel design. The irregular spacing of the panels in the scalloped parapet is an interesting feature. 13. The Edward Hotel Originally called the King Edward Mansions, this hotel was built in 1903, the architects being Jones and McWilliams. The style was described as “Old English” at the time but it is probably more correct to classify it as “Art Nouveau”. The open arcade in the interior is thought to have been a carriage way. The view down it to the north is delightful. It was also one of the first buildings in Port Elizabeth to have a lift, which is still in operation today. 5 14. The Donkin Reserve This is a portion of land given in perpetuity to the residents of city for their use by Sir Ruphane Donkin, who was the acting governor of the Cape. He supervised the landing of the British settlers when they arrived in 1820. He also named the city Port Elizabeth after his beloved wife, Elizabeth, who had died in 1818 at Meerut in India. The pyramid on the Donkin Reserve was built by Donkin as a memorial to Elizabeth, and the brass plaque on the pyramid bears the words “To the memory of one of the most perfect of human beings who has given her name to the town below”. The lighthouse was built in 1861, but was taken out of service in 1973 because of the density of the surrounding city lights. The lighthouse keeper’s house, built in the same year, was designed by Frederick Molesworth Pfeil. The Donkin Reserve has recently been extensively redeveloped. It has been re-landscaped and numerous sculptures and artworks have been introduced. The biggest national flag in the country is flown from the tallest flagpole in the country, which is 45 meters high. The changes were initiated by the Nelson Mandela Bay Development Agency and the architects were The Workplace. 15. The Grey Institute This attractive school building was completed in 1859, with the clock tower being added in 1875. It was the first premises of the Grey High School that occupied the building until 1915. It is considered to be a fine example of the secular Gothic and Tudor revival styles. The designer was Robert Archibald. It was used as a school until 1972, and then became the teacher centre and after that the child art centre. After some years of neglect it was bought by the Mediterranean Shipping Company. The interior of the building has been dramatically altered and recycled to accommodate them and is well worth visiting. The architect for the alterations, done between 2002 and 2005, was Giovanni Belfiori. Prior arrangements must be made before visiting. 16. The Hill Presbyterian Church This is one of the numerous fine stone churches in the Hill area of Port Elizabeth, the others being to the west of this self-guided walk. The architect was Frederick Molesworth Pfeil and the church was consecrated in 1865. The hall dates from 1896 and was designed by George William Smith, who was also responsible for the 1892 porch to the west. 17. The Donkin Street Houses This unique row of houses that steps down the hill was built between 1860 and 1880. What is particularly interesting is that contemporary photographs show the row partially complete with gaps still to be filled in. This indicates that they were built as individual houses and it is all the more remarkable they are so well integrated into a single unit. They are built on land reclaimed by the filling in of what had been a deep kloof. The name of the designer is not known. Most are now in very poor condition, although restoration work has been started. 6 18. The Opera House This is the only surviving example of a Victorian Theatre in South Africa. It was opened in 1892 and was designed by G W Smith. The Opera House remains the main venue for dramatic productions in Port Elizabeth. Renovations and extensions were carried out in 1985, the architects being Stauch Vorster and Partners. 19. Port Elizabeth library This was built in 1902 after a competition that was won by architect Henry Cheers of Twickenham, England. The library is an excellent example of Victorian Gothic revival architecture. It was also the first steel-framed building to be built in Port Elizabeth. The façade of terra-cotta blocks was manufactured in England and sent out to Port Elizabeth, with each of the blocks numbered to facilitate assembly. It is noteworthy that only the main facade, facing the Market Square, is terracotta. The other facades are plastered, with that facing St Mary’s Church having impressive mouldings. The main interior space, the Savage Memorial Hall, is unique in South Africa, and has a superb domed roof-light, stained glass windows and two levels of narrow galleries running around it. 20. Queen Victoria Although similar to statues erected in cities throughout the British Empire after her death, this statue of Queen Victoria was paid for by a public subscription, which was being begun in 1897, the year of her jubilee. It was carved by Edward Roscoe Mullins of London using Sicilian marble. The statue was finally unveiled in 1903. 21. St Mary’s Anglican Cathedral This church’s foundation stone was laid in 1824, but has undergone a number of alterations and changes. Extensions were made in 1860 by William Butterfield, a well-known English church architect. The church was completely destroyed by a fire in 1895, and rebuilt under the direction of Sydney Stent, who raised the height of walls and tower and re-orientated the chancel and sanctuary to the west. In 1924 Jones and McWilliams extended the nave to the then Main Street (now Govan Mbeki Street). As it stands at present it is a fine example of Gothic revival architecture with superb hammerbeam trusses. The narrow eastern façade, in Govan Mbeki Street, with a wide arch over a shop at the base and a slender spire should not be missed. St Mary’s has many interesting features relating to the history of Port Elizabeth. These include the Port Alfred’s Guard memorial chapel, where that regiment’s colours are displayed, and the only memorial brass in South Africa, that of Archdeacon A T Wirgman, Rector and Vice-Provost from 1874 – 1917. There are also excellent stained glass windows, which are largely Victorian. The rose window is an unusual design and a section at the top of the large window to the right of the lectern, which shows one of the Magi holding the infant Christ, dates from the 14th century and is thought to be the oldest stained glass in South Africa. 7 22. St Augustine’s Catholic Cathedral The foundation stone dates from 1861, the tower being completed and the church consecrated in 1866. It was designed by Robert Archibald and is said to be based on a church in Ireland. An example of the Early English Gothic Revival style, the church is beautifully located with its entrance, which is shaded by a large fig tree, overlooking the city centre and accessible only via a flight of stairs. The interior is simple but dignified. Immediately below the church is the Bishop’s House, designed by Herbert McWilliams and built in 1932. It is a delightful building in the Mediterranean Revival style. 23. Pleinhuis This was originally the Colonial Mutual Life Assurance Building. It was designed by the Australian firm of Hennessy and Hennessy and was built in the mid 1930’s. It is a good example of the art deco style and has substantial sculptured decoration. There is a very similar building in Durban done by the same architects for the same client. It is probable that the sculpture details are the work of I Mitford-Barberton and the carving the work of I Pinker as was the case in Durban. 24. The City Hall This prominent building that terminates the main street, was built between 1858 and 1862, the designer being Robert Archibald, Port Elizabeth’s first town engineer. The clock tower, designed by Charles Storey after a competition, was added later, in 1883. The main façade is a good example of Classical revivalism, while the rear is modest stonework. The City Hall was gutted by fire in 1977 and almost lost. Fortunately the city council was wise enough to decide to restore rather than demolish, and the interior was restored in contemporary style. The restoration architects were Stauch Vorster and Partners. The restored city hall was reopened in 1981. 25. The Reserve Bank Building This building, which now sits rather awkwardly on the edge of the market square after the square was raised in 1982, was designed by Herbert McWilliams and built in 1940 while he was on active service. It is rather sombre, as might be appropriate for a reserve bank, but is well proportioned and has a magnificent front door depicting the signs of the zodiac by sculptor Robert Bain in 1942. There is also superb interior marble and timberwork. It is not possible to get into the building without making prior arrangements. 26. The Telephone Exchange Entrance Down the narrow alley on the right hand side of the Reserve Bank is the entrance to the telephone exchange. Although seldom noticed this work from the late 1940’s is an excellent example of art deco composition. The architect was Hubert Tanton. 27. The Campanile The prominent structure was built in 1921 – 23 to commemorate the arrival of the 1820 settlers. It was designed by W J McWilliams of Jones and McWilliams. It is a 51.8 m high 8 brick tower in Italian style. It has a spiral staircase with 204 steps leading to a viewing platform below the carillon of 23 bells. 28. The Railway Station This was built in 1875 when the first railway line to Uitenhage was completed. The original building was designed by James Bisset, the resident Harbour and Public Works engineer. The cast iron supported roof to the main concourse was part of the additions in 1893 designed by E J Sherwood. This building is good examples of Victorian railway stations such as were common in English towns in the late 19th century. It was completely renovated by the S. A. Transport Services in 1985, the responsible architect being Stuart Douglas. Care must be taken when visiting the campanile and the railway station. Do not go into this area alone! References • • • • • • The Donkin Heritage Trail & Richmond Hill Trail, 8th edition, 2009. Published by The Historical Society of Port Elizabeth. ISBN 0 620 04157 Harradine, Margaret, undated, Port Elizabeth. Published by E. H. Walton Packaging (Pty) Ltd, Port Elizabeth. ISBN 0 620 19004 3 Allen, Geoffrey & David, 1978, The Guns of the Sacramento. Published by Robert Garton Ltd, London. ISBN 0 906030 06 4 Various authors. Series of articles published in the Eastern Province Herald, May and June 1987. Oberholster, J. J., 1972, The Historical Monuments of South Africa. Published by The Rembrandt van Rijn Foundation for Culture. ISBN 0 620 00192 5 ww.artefacts.co.za 9 10