Download A self-guided architectural tour of Historical Port Elizabeth

A self-guided architectural tour
of
Historical Port Elizabeth
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A self-guided architectural tour of Historical Port Elizabeth
Written by Stephen and Marianne Lear
The historical central area of Port Elizabeth contains a wealth of old buildings. This is fairly logical as
the city dates back to the arrival of the British settlers in 1820, and was for many years South Africa’s
most important centre outside of Cape Town.
At the end of the 18th century, the British, involved in their war against Napoleon, were concerned
that the French might land in Algoa Bay to assist the Graaff-Reinet rebels. This lead to the
establishment of a military post and a stone fort. A settlement, as yet unnamed, then grew up at the
mouth of the Baakens River, which provided a source of fresh water.
Algoa Bay, on which Port Elizabeth lies, was the closest feasible anchorage for ships on the way to
the East and later for trading along the coast. This had been known for many years, being first entered
by Bartholemeu Dias during his voyage of 1488. In 1576 it was given its name – Bahia da Lagoa – by
the Portuguese cartographer Manuel Mesquita Perestrelo. Algoa Bay is very safe during the winter
months when westerly winds prevail, but is extremely dangerous in spring when the winds change to
easterly. In the days of sailing ships an easterly gale invariably resulted in ships being driven ashore
and there are over 300 recorded wrecks. The great gale of September 1902 was the single most
serious event, with 21 ships wrecked.
But the major reason for the city’s development was the on-going conflict between the farmers of
Dutch descent and the amaXhosa tribes on the frontier to the east. The military encampment at
Grahamstown had been established in 1812 in an attempt to stabilise the situation and this needed
supplies. As there were no practical roads to the Cape, this had to be done by ship using the Algoa
Bay anchorage.
In 1819 the British government decided to increase the population of the frontier region in an attempt
to neutralise the amaXhosa threat. Over 4000 British settlers were recruited and transported in 23
ships to Algoa Bay. The first ship to arrive, in April 1820, was the “Chapman”. The arrival of the new
immigrants was superintended by Sir Ruphane Donkin, the acting-governor, who named the
settlement Port Elizabeth after his late wife Elizabeth. The new immigrants generated considerable
trade and the town grew rapidly as a result.
Port Elizabeth prospered as the major anchorage on the south and east coast during the 19th century
and towards the end of the 19th century provided the emerging diamond and goldfields with access to
the sea.
This prosperity was reflected in the many fine buildings that were built. As a British colonial town,
the city had a strongly British character, and the central area retains that to this day. Few of the
buildings featured in this tour would be out of place in an English market town.
The early major buildings were designed by engineers. This is not surprising as they were an essential
part of the development of towns and therefore tended to take up official positions before architects.
The first architect to set up practice in Port Elizabeth was probably George Dix-Peek. Although
almost forgotten he made a substantial and lasting contribution to the city. Frederick Molesworth
Pfeil was another early practitioner. Others who contributed were Smith and Dewar, Hubert Walker
and William White-Cooper. The most important contribution to the city’s early 20th century
architectural heritage probably came from the drawing boards of the firm of Jones and McWilliams,
which was active from 1901. This firm was responsible for a significant number of the buildings to be
seen on this tour.
Enjoy the tour!
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1.
The Harbour Board Building
This was built in 1904 as offices for the harbour administration. Designed by the firm of
Jones and McWilliams, it is regarded as one of the best examples of “Art Nouveu”
architecture in South Africa and has superbly ornamented interiors with wood carving and
plaster mouldings. The “white building”, as it was also known, (it was for many years
painted white) was the subject of an intensive and careful restoration by architect John
Rushmere in 1990.
2.
The Old Post Office Building
This was opened in 1900. It was designed by the Public Works Department of the Cape
Colonial Government under the direction of H S Greaves. The style is typical of late
Victorian public buildings, but the roof of the tower is French in character. The stone post
office building, faced with Paarl granite and local Coega stone, must be distinguished from
the old magistrate’s court and police station to the west which it abuts. This plaster building
was built before the post office and dates from 1885. It was also designed by the Public
Works Department.
3.
The Prester John Memorial
Prester John was a mythical Christian ruler. The myth, which was popular in Europe from the
12th through the 17th centuries, told of a Christian patriarch and king said to rule over a lost
Christian nation. At first, Prester John was imagined to reside in India. After the coming of
the Mongols to the Western world, accounts placed the king in Central Asia, and eventually
Portuguese explorers convinced themselves that they would find him in Africa.
The Prester John memorial is the work of local sculptor Phil Kolbe and was unveiled in 1986.
It commemorates the voyage of discovery of Bartholemeu Dias in 1498, which was the first
visit of Europeans to Algoa Bay and was terminated just to the East of Algoa Bay and was
largely inspired by the quest for Prester John. It consists of a large Coptic cross with a circle
in which are seated symbolic figures of Prester John and a Portuguese navigator.
4.
The Feathermarket Centre
This was originally built as a market for the sale of ostrich feathers. The roof was designed by
English engineer Sir John Wolfe-Barry, and the structure was prefabricated in England,
being delivered in 1882. A building to fit the roof was designed by William Henry Miles, a
consulting engineer appointed by the Council. The principal girders weigh 8 tons and the first
was positioned in October 1883. The enormous wrought iron windows were made locally.
In 1908 the Baakens Street façade, with offices behind, was added. It was designed by
municipal engineer Arthur Butterworth.
The hall was converted to the Feathermarket Centre in 1993, the main gallery being changed
into a concert hall with the offices becoming the foyer. These alterations were handled by the
municipal architects.
5.
The Eastern Province Herald Building
With its first issue published on 7 May 1845, The Eastern Province Herald is one of the
oldest daily newspapers in the country. It moved into its present building on the corner of
Military Road and Baakens Street in 1903. It is a solid three storey building with a corner
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entrance and arched windows on the ground floor which has ashlar plaster decoration. The
floors above are simpler but have heavy cornices.
Just beyond the Eastern Province Herald Building are the old Phoenix Iron Works buildings
that were built in 1882. They are the only remaining 19th century warehouse type buildings in
this part of the city. Because of its proximity to the landing stage this area had many such
buildings prior to 1900.
6.
No 7 Castle Hill
One of the oldest buildings in Port Elizabeth, this house was built for Rev. Francis
McCleland soon after the land was granted to him in 1827. An excellent example of an early
settler house, it is typical of the type of dwelling that was built in Port Elizabeth during the
first 50 years of its development. It has a symmetrical façade and a T plan resulting from
additions to the original house.
It is now a Historical Museum and is furnished as it would have been in mid-nineteenth
century. It is recommended that you pay the nominal entrance fee of R10.00 and visit the
house. The back courtyard with a hand pump from the original reservoir is delightful.
Across the road are the ‘Sterley’ cottages, no 10 and 12 Castle Hill. These were built about
fifteen years after no 7 and are smaller single-storied dwellings. They were restored with
alterations made in 1974 by architect Hubert Tanton.
7.
The Drill Hall
This was opened in 1882. The architects for the original hall were Storey and Wilson of the
Railway Department and George Dix Peek was responsible for adding a first floor and the
elaborate Prospect Hill elevation in 1893.
The Drill Hall is the headquarters of the Prince Alfred’s Guard Regiment, one of the oldest
volunteer regiments in the country.
On display in the Drill Hall is the “miracle cannon”. This is the best preserved of the bronze
cannons salvaged from the wreck of the Portuguese galleon “Sacramento” (wrecked at
Schoenmakerskop in 1647) in 1978. It is a perfect example of the work of master cannon
founder Pedro Dias Bocarro, who operated in Macao in the 17th century and was reputed to
make the best cannons in the world. The “Sacramento” was carrying a cargo of his cannons
back to Portugal. The example in the Drill Hall is superbly ornamented, with cherubs,
dolphin shaped lifting shackles, crests of Macoa and the Governor of India and a cascabel
decorated as a fertility symbol.
The Drill Hall can be entered to view the cannon and other interesting historical military
exhibits relating to the Prince Alfred’s Guard Regiment only when it is convenient to the on
duty staff.
8.
The Y W C A Building
This handsome Victorian building with a fine veranda between the side gables was designed
by Smith and Dewar and opened in 1906. It operated as a ladies hostel until the 1980’s when
it became a Technikon hostel, and has more recently become the premises of Pagdens
Stultings Attorneys who have maintained its original appearance.
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9.
The Athenaeum Building
The Athenaeum Society was founded in the 1850’s to promote cultural activities. This
building, funded by the Town Council to house the Society, was opened in 1896. It was
designed by George William Smith and is considered a good example of late 19th century
classicism which is rare in the city. There are subtle differences between the two parts of the
façade, with the south having a distinctly Egyptian revival character.
10.
Fort Frederick
This stone fort was built in 1799, and overlooks the landing place at the mouth of the
Baakens River. It was built by troops stationed in Algoa Bay for protection against raids from
the Xhosas and to prevent a possible landing of French troops to assist the “rebels” in GraaffReinet, who wanted to declare independence from the Cape. It is the oldest British building
west of Cape Town.
(The concern about the French was not unfounded. Shortly before Fort Frederick was built a
French frigate, the “Preneuse” entered the Bay and attacked the sloop “Rattlesnake” and the
store ship “Camel”. The “Camel” was transporting a prefabricated wooden blockhouse from
Cape Town, which was erected some months before Fort Frederick was commenced. Two
English seamen were killed in the battle, which lasted some hours. The “Preneuse” then
broke off the engagement and moved to shelter off St Croix Island and repair damage. She
was later sunk off Mauritius.)
11.
The Moorings
Although a short distance away from the prestige area of gracious homes that developed in
the Bird Street area, this is a fine example of one such house. It was built for William
Messina in 1901. He owned a number of tug boats and the view of the sea from this site is
probably the reason for him building here. The architect was George Dix-Peek.
12.
The Grand Hotel
This hotel was started in a large house, originally designed by Frederick Molesworth Pfeil,
which was converted into a hotel in 1885. Two distinguished guests who stayed at the hotel
were Mark Twain and Cecil Rhodes. The Whites Road side of the hotel was destroyed by a
fire in 1996 but the remaining wing on the Prospect Hill side is a good example of 19th
century hotel design. The irregular spacing of the panels in the scalloped parapet is an
interesting feature.
13.
The Edward Hotel
Originally called the King Edward Mansions, this hotel was built in 1903, the architects being
Jones and McWilliams. The style was described as “Old English” at the time but it is
probably more correct to classify it as “Art Nouveau”. The open arcade in the interior is
thought to have been a carriage way. The view down it to the north is delightful. It was also
one of the first buildings in Port Elizabeth to have a lift, which is still in operation today.
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14.
The Donkin Reserve
This is a portion of land given in perpetuity to the residents of city for their use by Sir
Ruphane Donkin, who was the acting governor of the Cape. He supervised the landing of the
British settlers when they arrived in 1820.
He also named the city Port Elizabeth after his beloved wife, Elizabeth, who had died in 1818
at Meerut in India.
The pyramid on the Donkin Reserve was built by Donkin as a memorial to Elizabeth, and the
brass plaque on the pyramid bears the words “To the memory of one of the most perfect of
human beings who has given her name to the town below”.
The lighthouse was built in 1861, but was taken out of service in 1973 because of the density
of the surrounding city lights. The lighthouse keeper’s house, built in the same year, was
designed by Frederick Molesworth Pfeil.
The Donkin Reserve has recently been extensively redeveloped. It has been re-landscaped
and numerous sculptures and artworks have been introduced. The biggest national flag in the
country is flown from the tallest flagpole in the country, which is 45 meters high. The
changes were initiated by the Nelson Mandela Bay Development Agency and the architects
were The Workplace.
15.
The Grey Institute
This attractive school building was completed in 1859, with the clock tower being added in
1875. It was the first premises of the Grey High School that occupied the building until 1915.
It is considered to be a fine example of the secular Gothic and Tudor revival styles. The
designer was Robert Archibald. It was used as a school until 1972, and then became the
teacher centre and after that the child art centre.
After some years of neglect it was bought by the Mediterranean Shipping Company. The
interior of the building has been dramatically altered and recycled to accommodate them and
is well worth visiting. The architect for the alterations, done between 2002 and 2005, was
Giovanni Belfiori.
Prior arrangements must be made before visiting.
16.
The Hill Presbyterian Church
This is one of the numerous fine stone churches in the Hill area of Port Elizabeth, the others
being to the west of this self-guided walk. The architect was Frederick Molesworth Pfeil
and the church was consecrated in 1865. The hall dates from 1896 and was designed by
George William Smith, who was also responsible for the 1892 porch to the west.
17.
The Donkin Street Houses
This unique row of houses that steps down the hill was built between 1860 and 1880. What is
particularly interesting is that contemporary photographs show the row partially complete
with gaps still to be filled in. This indicates that they were built as individual houses and it is
all the more remarkable they are so well integrated into a single unit. They are built on land
reclaimed by the filling in of what had been a deep kloof. The name of the designer is not
known. Most are now in very poor condition, although restoration work has been started.
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18.
The Opera House
This is the only surviving example of a Victorian Theatre in South Africa. It was opened in
1892 and was designed by G W Smith. The Opera House remains the main venue for
dramatic productions in Port Elizabeth.
Renovations and extensions were carried out in 1985, the architects being Stauch Vorster
and Partners.
19.
Port Elizabeth library
This was built in 1902 after a competition that was won by architect Henry Cheers of
Twickenham, England. The library is an excellent example of Victorian Gothic revival
architecture. It was also the first steel-framed building to be built in Port Elizabeth. The
façade of terra-cotta blocks was manufactured in England and sent out to Port Elizabeth, with
each of the blocks numbered to facilitate assembly. It is noteworthy that only the main
facade, facing the Market Square, is terracotta. The other facades are plastered, with that
facing St Mary’s Church having impressive mouldings. The main interior space, the Savage
Memorial Hall, is unique in South Africa, and has a superb domed roof-light, stained glass
windows and two levels of narrow galleries running around it.
20.
Queen Victoria
Although similar to statues erected in cities throughout the British Empire after her death, this
statue of Queen Victoria was paid for by a public subscription, which was being begun in
1897, the year of her jubilee. It was carved by Edward Roscoe Mullins of London using
Sicilian marble. The statue was finally unveiled in 1903.
21.
St Mary’s Anglican Cathedral
This church’s foundation stone was laid in 1824, but has undergone a number of alterations
and changes. Extensions were made in 1860 by William Butterfield, a well-known English
church architect. The church was completely destroyed by a fire in 1895, and rebuilt under
the direction of Sydney Stent, who raised the height of walls and tower and re-orientated the
chancel and sanctuary to the west. In 1924 Jones and McWilliams extended the nave to the
then Main Street (now Govan Mbeki Street).
As it stands at present it is a fine example of Gothic revival architecture with superb hammerbeam trusses. The narrow eastern façade, in Govan Mbeki Street, with a wide arch over a
shop at the base and a slender spire should not be missed.
St Mary’s has many interesting features relating to the history of Port Elizabeth. These
include the Port Alfred’s Guard memorial chapel, where that regiment’s colours are
displayed, and the only memorial brass in South Africa, that of Archdeacon A T Wirgman,
Rector and Vice-Provost from 1874 – 1917.
There are also excellent stained glass windows, which are largely Victorian. The rose
window is an unusual design and a section at the top of the large window to the right of the
lectern, which shows one of the Magi holding the infant Christ, dates from the 14th century
and is thought to be the oldest stained glass in South Africa.
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22.
St Augustine’s Catholic Cathedral
The foundation stone dates from 1861, the tower being completed and the church consecrated
in 1866. It was designed by Robert Archibald and is said to be based on a church in Ireland.
An example of the Early English Gothic Revival style, the church is beautifully located with
its entrance, which is shaded by a large fig tree, overlooking the city centre and accessible
only via a flight of stairs. The interior is simple but dignified.
Immediately below the church is the Bishop’s House, designed by Herbert McWilliams and
built in 1932. It is a delightful building in the Mediterranean Revival style.
23.
Pleinhuis
This was originally the Colonial Mutual Life Assurance Building. It was designed by the
Australian firm of Hennessy and Hennessy and was built in the mid 1930’s. It is a good
example of the art deco style and has substantial sculptured decoration. There is a very
similar building in Durban done by the same architects for the same client. It is probable that
the sculpture details are the work of I Mitford-Barberton and the carving the work of I Pinker
as was the case in Durban.
24.
The City Hall
This prominent building that terminates the main street, was built between 1858 and 1862,
the designer being Robert Archibald, Port Elizabeth’s first town engineer. The clock tower,
designed by Charles Storey after a competition, was added later, in 1883. The main façade is
a good example of Classical revivalism, while the rear is modest stonework. The City Hall
was gutted by fire in 1977 and almost lost. Fortunately the city council was wise enough to
decide to restore rather than demolish, and the interior was restored in contemporary style.
The restoration architects were Stauch Vorster and Partners. The restored city hall was reopened in 1981.
25.
The Reserve Bank Building
This building, which now sits rather awkwardly on the edge of the market square after the
square was raised in 1982, was designed by Herbert McWilliams and built in 1940 while he
was on active service. It is rather sombre, as might be appropriate for a reserve bank, but is
well proportioned and has a magnificent front door depicting the signs of the zodiac by
sculptor Robert Bain in 1942. There is also superb interior marble and timberwork. It is not
possible to get into the building without making prior arrangements.
26.
The Telephone Exchange Entrance
Down the narrow alley on the right hand side of the Reserve Bank is the entrance to the
telephone exchange. Although seldom noticed this work from the late 1940’s is an excellent
example of art deco composition. The architect was Hubert Tanton.
27.
The Campanile
The prominent structure was built in 1921 – 23 to commemorate the arrival of the 1820
settlers. It was designed by W J McWilliams of Jones and McWilliams. It is a 51.8 m high
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brick tower in Italian style. It has a spiral staircase with 204 steps leading to a viewing
platform below the carillon of 23 bells.
28.
The Railway Station
This was built in 1875 when the first railway line to Uitenhage was completed. The original
building was designed by James Bisset, the resident Harbour and Public Works engineer.
The cast iron supported roof to the main concourse was part of the additions in 1893 designed
by E J Sherwood. This building is good examples of Victorian railway stations such as were
common in English towns in the late 19th century.
It was completely renovated by the S. A. Transport Services in 1985, the responsible architect
being Stuart Douglas.
Care must be taken when visiting the campanile and the railway station. Do not go into this
area alone!
References
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The Donkin Heritage Trail & Richmond Hill Trail, 8th edition, 2009. Published by The
Historical Society of Port Elizabeth. ISBN 0 620 04157
Harradine, Margaret, undated, Port Elizabeth. Published by E. H. Walton Packaging (Pty)
Ltd, Port Elizabeth. ISBN 0 620 19004 3
Allen, Geoffrey & David, 1978, The Guns of the Sacramento. Published by Robert Garton
Ltd, London. ISBN 0 906030 06 4
Various authors. Series of articles published in the Eastern Province Herald, May and June
1987.
Oberholster, J. J., 1972, The Historical Monuments of South Africa. Published by The
Rembrandt van Rijn Foundation for Culture. ISBN 0 620 00192 5
ww.artefacts.co.za
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