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Environment and Culture in Nepal: Optimising the needs of Protected Areas, Threatened Species and Human Livelihoods A university study program in natural resource management, conservation and human development Four weeks of field experience in Nepal supported by extensive reading of relevant research from the study areas Introduction Nepal is rich in both natural and cultural diversity. The great range of altitude from the lowland plains of the terai to the high peaks of the Himalaya has produced an unparalleled diversity of habitats from tropical forests in the south to alpine grasslands in the north, supporting a tremendous variety of flora and fauna. This includes many species that are globally threatened such as the Tiger, Snow Leopard, Indian Rhinoceros and Gharial. This great biological diversity is matched by an equal richness of human cultures with many quite distinct ethnic groups of diverse origins occupying different parts of the country, each adapted to the particular natural environment of their area. Crops and farming practices have been modified according to altitude, climate and soils, and the use of natural resources changes in relation to variations in local ecology. Traditionally, most people have depended on a combination of farming and products from the natural environment for most of their basic living requirements and this is still the case in almost all of the rural parts of the country today. Tourism, which is mostly nature-based, is one of Nepal’s major sources of income. Most tourists visit the county’s national parks and other protected areas as well as enjoying the great wealth of cultural richness. There is a clear interdependence of humans and natural resources in Nepal and the future of the great majority of the human population at local and national levels depends on how successfully this interdependence is managed. Objective of study program This study program explores Nepal’s natural environments and human cultures with a primary focus on the conservation of biodiversity and the sustainable use of natural resources. The program examines ways by which long-term conservation objectives can be achieved and maintained while at the same time enabling the quality of life of the human population in and around protected areas to improve and develop. Approaches to the management of biodiversity that attempt to maximise the long-term benefits for both nature and people are studied. In Nepal many people live in areas immediately adjacent to protected areas and in some cases, within protected areas. This has presented many challenges. There is rarely a clear separation of the activities and requirements of humans and wildlife. Wildlife can be pests of crops and in some 1 cases a direct threat to humans. Likewise humans can be a threat to wild animals and plants through poaching, attempted pest control, overharvesting, habitat destruction, pollution, overgrazing and disturbance. There are many opportunities for animal and plant species, particularly exotics that are harmful to natural systems, to cross from cultivated land into natural areas. On the other side of the coin natural areas can offer incomes through nature-based tourism. Protected areas are also often the only remaining sources of many natural products, such as building materials, firewood and medicinal plants, upon which local people depend. Nepal has had some 40 years of intensive research and practical experience of protected area management and approaches to achieve compatibility between the needs of conservation and local human populations. This has resulted in the development of general models of successful management of protected areas and many successful case histories for the conservation of threatened species within protected areas such as the Tiger, Indian Rhinoceros, and the fish-eating Gharial. Many detailed species and protected area management plans have been produced. Nepal is therefore an excellent location to learn about the challenges and solutions to many aspects of protected area and species management. Nepal’s biodiversity Nepal, with area 147,181 sq km, occupies the central part of the Himalayas standing between the Palaeartic (Holartic) and Paleotropical (Indo-Malayan) regions. The country is located between latitudes 26o22’ and 30o27’ N and longitudes 80o40’ and 88o12’ E. Altitude varies from 67 m above sea level at Kechana Kalan, Jhapa in the south-eastern Terai to 8848 m at Mt. Sagarmatha (Everest), the highest point in the world. Nepal’s biodiversity is a reflection of its unique geographic position and variations in altitude and climate. The extreme altitudinal gradient has resulted in 11 bio-climatic zones ranging from tropical to nival within a short horizontal span. The Terai belt (67-300 m) is a flat stretch of fertile agricultural and forested land in southern Nepal, which forms part of the alluvial Gangetic plain and is characterised by many complex and diverse riverine ecosystems, many now well represented in protected areas such as Chitwan National Park. The Siwalik Hills Zone (700-1500 m) rises abruptly from the Terai plains and is mainly composed of sedimentary rock with large boulders. The Mahabharat Lek (1500 m to 2700 m) lies between the Siwalik Hills to the south and the midlands to the north. The Midlands (average altitude 2000 m) occupy the central region of the country. This area is characterised by many small farming communities usually on terraced hill slopes, set among extensive forests grading from oak at lower altitudes to fir, birch and rhododendron at higher altitudes. The Himalayan zone (above 4000 m) lies in the north and stretches from east to west of the country. It consists of subalpine and alpine climates where summer grazing pastures are found in the lower elevations and high altitude plant species adapted to extremes of cold and desiccation grow in rain shadow areas at higher elevations. There are several inner Himalayan valleys with desert conditions such as the upper Kaligandaki and Bheri valleys located at altitudes above 3600 m. A wide range of climatic conditions exists in Nepal, mainly as a result of variations in altitude. This is reflected in contrasting habitats, vegetation, and fauna. Other important climatic factors influencing biodiversity and the composition of flora and fauna in Nepal include rainfall, winter snowfall, temperature, and aspect. Soil formation is related to the physiographic zone. In the Terai, the soil is alluvial and fine to medium textured. In the Siwalik Hills, it is made up of sedimentary rocks with a 2 sandy texture, while in the Mid-hills soil is medium to light in texture with a predominance of coarsegrained sand and gravel. The soil in the high mountains is shallow, stony, and glacial. The country’s major perennial river systems are the Mahakali, Karnali, Narayani, and Koshi rivers, all of which originate in the Himalayas and are fed by glaciers during the dry winter months. Medium-sized rivers include the Babai, West Rapti, Bagmati, Kamala, Kankai, and Mechi rivers that generally originate in the Mid-hills or in the Mahabharat range. The Terai region contains many small and usually seasonal rivers most of which originate in the Siwalik Hills. These rivers hold a great potential for both small and large-scale hydro-electricity production, which could offset the need to use forests for fuel. However, this and other uses of water are threatened by the melting of glaciers as a result of global warming. The latest physiographic data show around 4.27 million hectares (29% of total land area) of the Nepal’s land surface is mature forest; 1.56 million hectares (10.6%) is scrubland and degraded forest; 1.7 million hectares (12%) is grassland; 3.0 million hectares (21%) is farmland, and about 1.0 million hectares (7%) is uncultivated lands. Forest cover in the Terai and Hill areas is reported to have decreased at an annual rate of 1.3% and 2.3%, respectively between 1978/79 and 1990/91. Nepal had a human population of 23.2 million at the most recent census in 2001 but has been increasing at an annual rate of about 2.5%. Some 48.5% of the population lives in the Terai, 44.2% in the Hills, and 7.3% in the Mountains. Nepal covers only 0.1% of the surface area of the world but supports an exceptionally high proportion of global biodiversity. A total of 6391 flowering plant species have been recorded or 2.76% of the world total. The total number of mammals is 208 (3.96% of world total), of birds, 865 (8.9%), of reptiles, 195 (1.54%) and of amphibians, 118 (2.47%) and of fish, 206 species. The diversity of some invertebrate groups is also exceptionally high. For example, 653 species of butterflies have been recorded, representing 3.72% of the world total. Nepal has a total of 17 protected areas, which includes nine National Parks, three Wildlife Reserves, four Conservation Areas and one Hunting Reserve. Eleven of the protected areas also have associated buffer zones. The total area protected, including the buffer zones, covers 28,960 km2, or 19.7% of the land surface of the country. Thirty-six major vegetation types have been described across Nepal, of which 31 are well represented in protected areas. Study program There are two components to this study program: extensive reading of relevant literature and intensive experience in the field. Many of the publications that should be read are provided on a CD and other documents will be consulted in Nepal during the fieldwork section. The field experience involves four weeks in Nepal, based at two of the country’s most important protected areas; the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACA) and Chitwan National Park (CNP). ACA is a 3 very extensive and predominantly hill and montane area of some7,630 km2, based around the Annapurna range of mountains. It consists of a variety of natural areas ranging from oak rhododendron and fir forests to high altitude dry grasslands, within which there are many traditional farming communities, predominantly of people of the Gurung and Thakali ethnic groups. CNP is a lowland national park in the terai and in contrast to ACA does not have settlements within it. Around the perimeters of the park the area is populated by traditional farming communities predominantly of the Tharu ethnic group. These two protected areas therefore contrast in many respects but particularly in the presence and absence of human communities within the areas. They therefore present different challenges for the conservation of biodiversity, requiring different management approaches. In addition to work in the two protected areas, two to three days are spent in the Kathmandu valley learning about the history and culture of the area and becoming familiar with the main ideas of the Hindu and Buddhist religions. Annapurna Conservation Area. The ACA has long been one of Nepal’s most popular trekking areas, based on a combination of experiences, including spectacular mountain views, the natural environment and traditional villages and lifestyles. A system of paved pathways, used by people and their animals for centuries, connects the many small villages and gives access to the extensive areas of natural habitats. Tourists greatly increase the number of people that have to be supported by local resources but at the same time give employment and income to the resident population. The provision of food, heating and other facilities for tourists potentially places a great deal of stress on the natural environments and farmed land of the area. The major management challenge has been developing methods that ensure the system can be sustainable. Within ACA there is a very wide range of altitudes which results in a great diversity of very different habitats and an exceptionally high biodiversity. The area supports 97 species of mammal, 476 species of birds, 56 reptiles and 450 species of flowering plants. In ACA the program is based at Ghandruk, the location of the Annapurna Conservation Area Project headquarters, run by the National Trust for Nature Conservation (previously the King Mahendra Trust for Nature) the most important conservation NGO in Nepal with close ties to the government Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation. Ghandruk is a traditional Gurung village, a settlement of fine stone-walled and slate-roofed houses surrounded by terraced cultivation. Accommodation is in the Namaste Guest House, a friendly and courteous, family run business offering basic but clean rooms and wholesome food. The lodge which gives spectacular views of the Annapurna peaks and Machhapuchre, the Fish-tailed Mountain, is reserved for the exclusive use of participants during the program. 4 Activities in the Annapurna Conservation Area The ACA is an example of a protected area that has people living traditional lifestyles in villages set among a matrix of natural environments. The program offers the opportunity to study the natural environments and wildlife, the role of ecotourism, the lifestyles of the local people and methods adopted to ensure the sustainability of the whole system. The program will focus mainly on the following aspects of conservation and human lives: Natural environments. From Ghandruk day excursions are made to areas of natural habitat and other natural habitats are seen on the route into ACA from Kathmandu and Pokhara. Immediately around Ghandruk the predominant habitat is the rhododendron forest and there are large untouched areas of this forest types within easy reach. Study ecology and management plans for conservation of species such as the Snow Leopard and management plan for ACA. Traditional farming practices. Farming methods are still predominantly highly traditional, involving cropping and livestock rearing on terraced slopes, using labour intensive and mainly organic methods. The growing of food, food harvesting, processing and storage are done by family units. Local crafts and skills. The local population still relies heavily on traditional skills using both natural resources and farmed products to produce many of their basic needs. For example, wool shorn from locally grazed sheep is cleaned, carded, spun and woven and baskets used to carry many items from firewood to corn are woven from bamboo. Demonstrations of these activities will be given and by prior arrangement it may be possible to organise individual lessons in activities such as spinning and weaving. Ecotourism. Tourism is a major source of local income, providing employment through the provision of accommodation and food, working as porters, selling craftwork and so on. The nature of this tourism is studies as well as ways developed to cope with the added fuel and food requirements, such as small-scale hydro-electric units and solar power. Projects have been undertaken to enhance the growing of vegetables, the use of plantation wood to replace wood from native forests and the planting of fodder bushes to reduce the cutting from natural forests. Education. Engagement with local school students in Ghandruk is a valuable way to learn about local culture and the ideas and aspirations of young people as well as sharing experiences. Local cultural activities. Depending on the season it is usually possible to experience local traditions of music and dance as well as religious celebrations. 5 Chitwan National Park CNP was established in 1973 and is Nepal’s oldest protected area. It is internationally renowned for its successful conservation of many threatened animals but especially the Indian One-horned Rhinoceros, Tiger and Gharial. The park has a wide variety of habitats from forested hill country in the southern parts, with many small steep river valleys to the flat riverine areas produced by the very active Rapti, Reu and Narayani rivers in the northern and western sections. Major habitats include tropical Sal (Shorea robusta) forest, the main climax forest type, and successional habitats such as mixed broadleaved riverine forest, grasslands, savannah and khair-sissoo scrub along newly deposited sandy river sediments. In addition to Tiger, Rhino and Gharial other significant wildlife species include Leopard, Sloth Bear, Indian Elephant, Gaur, Gangetic Dolphin, Bengal Florican and Great Hronbill. The park supports an exceptional diversity of other species including 58 species of mammal, 559 species of birds, 56 reptiles and 124 fish species. In CNP the program is based on the western edge of the park at the Tharu Cultural Resort, a tourist lodge that specialises in the culture of the local indigenous Tharu people and has easy access to the park and traditional local villages. Activities at Chitwan National Park. Experience the range of habitats and species within the National Park. Study the national park management plan and various aspects of management activities on the ground. Study the ecology and individual management plans for species such as Tiger, Indian Rhinoceros and Gharial Experience the captive rearing and release program for Gharial and study Gharial habitat from canoe on the Narayani River. Visit the elephant breeding program run by the national park. Learn about the culture of the local Tharu people. The Tharu are the longest established and predominant ethnic group in the areas surrounding the National Park. Experience their farming practices and their use of natural products for housing, fuel and medicine. Experience other aspects of Tharu culture such as music, dance and religious celebrations. Ecotourism. Ecotourism in and around CNP is a major source of local and national income. Learn about people-park interactions. First-hand experience is gained of the complexity of people-park interactions, including the two-way movement of species regarded as pests, the requirements of local people for natural resources, and advantages and disadvantages of ecotourism . Also examine ways in which aspects of local culture and activities have been 6 modified over the past 30 years or so to enhance the sustainable use of natural resources. Time permitting, a side excursion to Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha, may be undertaken. Activities in the Kathmandu Valley At least two days will be spent in and around Kathmandu at the start and end of the study program, experiencing different aspects of Nepalese history, relgions and culture. Visits will be made to Kathmandu’s ancient Dhurbar Square, the Buddhist stupa of Boudhnath, the old city of Bhaktapur , famous for wood carving, and other traditional craftwork, and the temple of Pashupatinath, the most important temple and cremation site for Nepali Hindus on the banks of the sacred Bagmati River. Health and safety There are no major health and safety risks at either ACA or CNP, provided basic measures and precautions are taken. Vaccination against the relevant major diseases is recommended, in consultation with a medical practitioner. Apart from these, dysentery is the only potential risk at all times and in the monsoon, malaria is a potential risk in CNP. Dysentery is better avoided than cured and this can be done easily by ensuring that all water and food consumed is clean. Bottled water is available in most areas as is boiled and filtered water. Often it is best to drink tea with water that has been thoroughly boiled. Malaria is best dealt with by minimising exposure to mosquito bites and taking appropriate prophylactics. ACA: Namaste Guest House has been used many times and there has been no case of dysentery or other food poisoning. The staff maintain meticulously clean food preparation conditions and most food is sourced from the family farm and garden, including the milk which comes straight from the very friendly family water buffalo and boiled. Ghandruk has a small medical centre with resident nursing staff that can deal with most minor problems. There is mobile phone, satellite phone and internet access in case of any emergency and there is a helicopter landing pad at the ACAP headquarters. CNP: Chitwan National Park is a natural area of wild habitats and like all such areas supports populations of potentially dangerous wild animals. Species such as Tiger, Sloth bear, Indian Rhinoceros, Gaur and Indian Elephant always present a potential safety threat. However, this threat can be eliminated by following simple and quite obvious rules. For example, it is extremely unwise to leave the area of the lodge on foot in darkness. Always conduct activities within the park as a group under the direct supervision of experienced guides who know the area and animals well. Always follow their instructions and never wander off alone, no matter what; if a “nature call” is needed, inform the guide!! Never lag behind. The Tharu Cultural resort is a highly profession lodge that maintains the highest standards of hygiene. We have experienced no health problems there. Telephone and internet communication are available. The lodge is within about 1 hour’s drive of 7 Bharaptpur which has excellent modern hospitals, including a teaching hospital and an airport with a short 30 minute flight to Kathmandu. Program management and tuition team This program was developed by Dr. Iain R. Taylor PhD of Charles Sturt University, Australia and Himalayan Nature, Nepal; Dr. Hem Sagar Baral PhD of Himalayan Nature, Nepal; and Gangaram Singh MSc. of the Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation and Himalayan Nature, Nepal, all of whom are also the tutors for the subject in the field. Iain Taylor has more than 30 years of experience in Nepal having undertaken many research projects in wildlife ecology and management in Chitwan and Annapurna. He has supervised many Nepali postgraduate students. Hem Sagar Baral has very extensive experience of wildlife ecology and management as well as ecotourism in Nepal stretching over many years. His research speciality is the ecology of grassland birds and he was Nepal’s Director for Birdlife International for many years. He has also organised and lead many groups in Nepal to study the country’s wild places and culture. Gangaram Singh is a senior member of Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation in Nepal and has many years experience in the management of Nepal’s protected areas. He has worked mostly in the field and has lived in and been responsible for the planning and management of these areas such Koshi Tappu, Chitwan, Bardia and Rara Lake as for most of his career. He has a detailed understanding of people-park relationships. This scientific team is backed up by Sharad Singh, Director of Himalayan Nature specialist on ecotourism, and Ram Rai, a mountain guide with Himalayan Nature. 8 Program and dates for 2010 Date Location Activity 27 November Leave Australia 28 November Arrive Kathmandu (approx mid-day) 29 November Travel to Pokhara 30 November In Pokhara Another opportunity to buy outdoor gear. Obtain permits to enter Annapurna Conservation area 1 December Travel to Gandruk Approx 2 hours bus journey followed by 6 hour trek 20-6 December In Gandruk Various activities listed above 7 December Return to Pokhara 8 December Travel to Chitwan National Park 9-16 December In Chitwan 17 December Travel to Lumbini 18-19 December In Lumbini 20 December Travel to Kathmandu 21-22 December In Kathmandu A few hours to buy outdoor gear Various activities listed above Visit birthplace of the Buddha, wetland site and rice agricultural landscapes Visit various important cultural sites around Kathmandu 9