Download Puppy Book - Southtowns animal hospital

Dedicated to the memory of
Newman
Beloved Hospital Cat
1997-2014
FOREWORD
Firstly, on behalf of Doctor Jacobi and all the veterinarians and
staff of Southtowns Animal Hospital, we want to congratulate you
on the newest addition to your family! Whether this is your first
dog, or your tenth, all of us want to ensure that your new pet has
the best and healthiest start possible.
The first year of a dog’s life is one of amazing growth and
development, and we have prepared this booklet to help you, your
family, and your dog through the transition from puppyhood to
adult.
If you ever have questions about your puppy, such as a health
concern, a behavior issue or just basic information, our staff is
here to help you.
CHAPTER ONE
YOUR PUPPY’S VACCINES
Most puppies begin vaccination at 8 weeks of age, and most
have completed their shots by 16 weeks. All puppies receive some
degree of immunity to diseases from their mother’s milk, but this
immunity begins to fade around 8 weeks, and this is why we try to
give a puppy’s first immunization at this time. As the mother’s
immunity continues to decline in the puppy, we “boost” the
vaccines at 3-4 week intervals, ending with the shots given at 16
weeks, which is the age at which the mother’s immunity has
completely faded.
Sometimes breeders will vaccinate puppies younger than 8
weeks, for a variety of reasons. However, this vaccine is
considered ineffective due to the high levels of maternal immunity
still present in the puppy.
Until your puppy has received the complete series of
immunizations, try to avoid taking it to places where it will have
contact with unvaccinated dogs, such as public parks and pet
stores.
We recommend that all puppies be vaccinated against
Distemper, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, Parvovirus, and Rabies.
These are considered the “core” vaccines that all dogs should
receive. What most people call the “distemper shot” actually has
four immunizations included. The first, Distemper, is a severe,
usually fatal neurological disease. It doesn’t have anything to do
with calming a puppy down, or altering its temperament. The
second, Hepatitis, is a liver infection. You can think of the third
portion of the vaccine, which immunizes against Parainfluenza,
like a doggy flu shot, and the fourth, Parvovirus, is a severe,
extremely contagious hemorrhagic diarrhea that is often fatal if
not treated promptly and aggressively.
Rabies is given as a separate injection, usually at the same time
as the final Distemper shot; although this can change depending
on what the doctor decides is best for your puppy. Rabies is a
viral infection of the nerve tissue and brain that is always fatal.
Rabies is the only vaccine that is required by law due to the risk to
human health. Having a current rabies vaccine is required to
license your dog. A dog with an expired rabies vaccine can be
impounded, and if an unvaccinated dog bites someone, it can be
quarantined at the owner’s expense or even euthanized. 
Unfortunately, rabies is epidemic through all of New York
State, and there have been confirmed cases in raccoons and bats
within a mile of our hospital.
The initial Rabies vaccine your puppy receives will be good for
one year, and then all subsequent vaccines will remain current for
3 years, unless your pet is exposed or bitten by another animal.
ADDITIONAL VACCINES
In addition to the core vaccines of Distemper and Rabies, your
dog may be at risk of contracting other illnesses. Dogs that visit
groomers or kennels, or who participate in sporting events or dog
shows may be exposed to other diseases will need further
immunization.
We recommend that you review your dog’s vaccines with us
regularly, because as your circumstances change, we may need to
adjust your dog’s vaccine schedule.
One of the noncore vaccines that we strongly recommend is to
protect your dog against an illness called Leptospirosis. This is a
bacterial disease which is transmitted by your dog coming into
contact with the urine of an infected animal. Little woodland
creatures, such as rats, squirrels and raccoons are the usual carriers
of this disease, and when they urinate into standing water or
puddles, our pets can catch the disease by drinking, walking or
swimming in the infected water.
In our area, Leptospirosis is most common in the spring and
fall when there are many standing puddles due to snow melt and a
lot of rain. Leptospirosis is, sadly, an often fatal disease, causing
irreversible liver and kidney damage.
Once the initial vaccine is given, this immunization needs to be
boostered in 2 weeks and then yearly thereafter. Unfortunately, if
the yearly booster lapses, the series must be given again to ensure
effective protection.
Please take some time to study your puppy’s environment. Do
any of these apply to you and your home and yard?
Does your yard turn into a lake when it rains or the snow melts?
Are there kiddie pools from which your pet may swim or play in?
Are there containers in the yard that collect water from which your
puppy may drink?
Do you live where furry creatures like raccoons, rats or skunks
visit your yard?
Will you take your pet to places where it may swim or drink from
ponds or stagnant muddy areas such as creek beds?
If you answered yes to any of these, please speak to the
veterinarian about immunizing your pet against leptospirosis.
Transmitted by ticks
Lyme Disease is another non-core
vaccine that we can provide to help ensure that your puppy is
protected against serious illness.
The entire Northeastern United States is in the “red zone” for
Lyme disease transmission, which means that most dogs are at risk
of infection. Infected black-legged ticks carry the bacterium.
When an infected tick bites a dog it transmits the bacteria that
causes the illness, and the longer the tick remains attached to your
dog, the greater the risk of transmission.
Exposure to Lyme disease is greater in the spring through fall,
with fall being the greatest risk because that is when ticks are most
active. However, attachment can happen at any time of year, even
in the winter on warmer days. Adult ticks will become active as
the temperature rises and seek a blood meal. Dogs are susceptible
to Lyme disease because they spend a lot of time in yards or
walking in areas where they are in contact with ticks.
Consider where your dog spends time outdoors and where you
might travel with your puppy when he is grown to see if
vaccinating against Lyme disease is appropriate for you.
Remember that Western New York is in the red zone for Lyme
disease infection! If you can answer “yes” to any of the following
questions, we can help you form a prevention plan against Lyme
Disease.
Is your home surrounded by or adjacent to tall brush or wildlife
areas?
Do you and your puppy plan on walking, hunting, hiking, or
fishing in wooded areas?
Do you travel or live in an area with lots of deer?
Have you found a tick on any pets in the past?
Have you ever found a tick on your puppy?
After walking in the woods, scrub brush, or near shrubby
overgrown areas, check your dog thoroughly for ticks, especially
in and around the ears and between the toes.
We can help you choose safe products to help prevent ticks, either
a topical preventive, which will help kill ticks within 2-3 days of
attachment, or a pill which kill fleas and ticks for up to 3 months.
Vaccinate! Once immunized, your puppy should receive a booster
every year for as long as it is at risk.
Kennel Cough is extremely contagious! Any time multiple dogs
are housed together there is the risk of contracting kennel cough,
which is an upper respiratory infection that can sometimes
develop into pneumonia. Even vaccinated dogs can still get
kennel cough, but the infection will be milder, and rarely develops
into pneumonia.
Shelters, grooming salons, doggy day care centers, dog parks, pet
stores, boarding facilities, and obedience classes are all places
where many dogs congregate and can pass on the infection. Many
of these facilities require that dogs be vaccinated against kennel
cough before any dog may join or participate. Others do not
require the vaccine, but if your dog is going to be mingling with
others, it is a good idea to vaccinate.
If your dog will not be joining any of these groups, the risk of
exposure is low, but still possible. If you choose not to vaccinate
your puppy for kennel cough, or choose not to keep the vaccine
up to date, you should keep in mind that if later in life your dog
needs to be groomed, or boarded during a family emergency, this
vaccine will be necessary, and should be given 2 weeks prior to
any possible exposure. The vaccine is a nasal drop, and it takes
just over a week for the best immune response possible. There is
an injectable form of the vaccine available, but it requires an initial
immunization, and then a booster 4 weeks later.
Feel free to speak to the staff about your puppy’s probable
exposure level to determine if this vaccine is right for his optimal
health.
REACTIONS AND VACCINE SAFETY
Vaccines are a safe and effective way to protect your new puppy
against many very serious illnesses. Vaccines have made
devastating sicknesses like distemper and rabies are very rare in
our pet animals.
However, nothing in life is completely without risk, and it is
possible for a dog to have a reaction to a vaccine. Reactions can
be mild, such as minor tenderness where the vaccine was given
and slight tiredness, occasionally vomiting and diarrhea, to a
severe allergic reaction such as facial swelling, collapse, or
extremely rarely, death.
Veterinarians do everything possible to avoid any complications
with our vaccines. One way we do this is to stagger when
vaccines are administered and by not giving more than 2
immunizations at a time. For certain at-risk breeds, we may only
give one vaccine per visit.
Most dogs never have a vaccine reaction in their lifetime, but, to
be safe, always observe your puppy carefully for the first few
hours after a vaccine is given and please contact the hospital if you
have any concerns at all.
CHAPTER TWO
PARASITES
INTESTINAL PARASITES
Ewww. Worms. Internal parasites are gross. Unfortunately
virtually all puppies are born infected with worms. This isn’t the
fault of the breeder. Many intestinal parasites are able to form
cysts in muscle tissue, which can remain dormant for the life of
the animal. Deworming medications cannot penetrate body tissues
to affect these microscopic cysts. The stress of pregnancy allows
the dormant parasite larva to emerge from the cysts and infect the
puppies while they are still inside their mother.
Hookworms
Roundworms
Whipworms
Because of this, we start puppies on a regular deworming regimen
at six to eight weeks of age. We also strongly suggest that all dogs
stay on a safe and effective monthly dewormer for life.
The eggs of intestinal worms such as roundworms,
whipworms,
and hookworms
are all around us in our
environment, even in winter. Because of this, even puppies that
have been dewormed multiple times by a breeder or shelter should
continue on their deworming schedule.
Intestinal worms can be transmitted to humans, so by treating
your puppy you are protecting your whole family, especially
children or adults with weaker immune systems. In rare instances
such infections can be devastating or even deadly.
Even with your puppy on a safe and effective plan of parasite
control, it is important for us to check a stool sample once yearly
so we can screen for other intestinal parasites that are not worms.
It is very common, especially for shelter puppies whose care and
history is unknown, to be infected with some single celled
organisms such as giardia or coccidia that will need to be
addressed.
In addition to regular deworming, be sure to pick up stools from
the yard promptly to reduce the risk of re-infection.
HEARTWORM
Heartworm is a devastating disease that is transmitted from dog to
dog by the bite of infected mosquitos.
Heartworm is very common in the Southern United states. Sadly,
those infected dogs from “down South” brought this deadly
parasite “up North”. The harsh winters of our area are no
protection against mosquitos, as was once thought. A spell of
nice weather during a January thaw is enough for mosquitos to
become active. As more and more people travel with their pets,
and as rescue groups continue to move animals to Northern states
from kill-shelters in the South, heartworm is in our area, and it is
here to stay. 
Once a dog is bitten by an infected mosquito, microscopic larvae
travel through the dog’s tissues and eventually come to live in the
heart as adults. The worms clog the heart and large vessels of the
lungs causing heart failure and death. Damage to the heart and
lungs can be permanent, even with successful treatment.
The treatment for heartworm disease is expensive and dangerous,
because the medication is toxic. Dead and dying worms can cause
blood clots, stroke, heart attacks, or even death.
Heartworm disease is one of those conditions where an ounce of
prevention is definitely worth a pound of cure.
In addition to preventing heartworm infection, the medications
we use also treat and prevent intestinal worms. While your puppy
is growing, we send home one dose at a time. Once your puppy is
grown, we perform a yearly blood test and we can provide you
with year round safe and effective medication that is given
monthly to prevent this awful disease.
FLEAS
Fleas are a constant risk for any pet owner. By starting your
puppy on a safe medication for fleas we can keep it comfortable
and protected.
Many dogs are allergic to flea bites and can develop severe skin
infections from constantly biting and scratching at their itching
skin.
In our area we generally see our worst flea infestations in the late
summer and fall, but fleas can be active at any time of year.
Weather conditions can greatly affect the prevalence of fleas and it
is possible for you to see no fleas for many years, and then
suddenly develop an infestation
.
Fleas seem to take most pet owners by surprise, because a flea
problem always starts out small, and then explodes. A single
female flea can lay up to 50 eggs per day! Keeping your puppy on
a safe flea medication can save you a lot of time and expense by
preventing major infestations.
We have several types of safe flea medications, in both topical
liquid and pill form, and we will be able to provide the most
effective flea treatments for your puppy and your circumstances.
As a word of caution, many over-the-counter flea products use
older, less safe ingredients, and they can be sold in packaging that
closely resembles safe, veterinarian approved products. Puppies in
particular can be sensitive to some older insecticides, so please
contact us before applying any of these products to your puppy.
Even products labeled as “natural” can have adverse reactions!
Please be safe!
TICKS
Ticks are 8-legged parasites related to spiders, and different
species of ticks are common throughout Western New York.
Some areas are more tick-infested than others. Ticks can transmit
several diseases, but Lyme disease is the illness of most concern in
our area.
In addition to disease, the tick bite itself may cause irritation and
infection, especially if you attempt to remove the tick yourself. All
or part of the tick’s head may remain buried in your puppy’s skin.
Should you find an embedded tick on your dog, please contact us
to have it safely removed, and, if there are signs of infection, we
can begin prompt and proper treatment. There are also tick
removal tools and tick bars available for sale at some pet stores.
There are medications available to help prevent tick attachment,
but they have very limited effectiveness. Even when used
properly, it is still possible for ticks to attach. We still recommend
these medications because some protection is better than none.
Keep in mind when considering tick prevention that the
ingredients used to prevent tick attachment in dogs are NOT for
use in cats, and can even cause adverse reactions in cats that come
into contact with treated dogs. If you have cats at home, please
discuss tick control carefully with the veterinarian.
As with flea products, we see bad reactions with some over the
counter tick products, especially powders and sprays. Please
discuss safe tick prevention with the doctor before using any
products on your puppy.
CHAPTER THREE
DIET AND NUTRITION
In general, we recommend Science Diet foods. The veterinarians
at Southtowns Animal Hospital approve of their feeding trials and
quality control practices. They also trust their specific prescription
diets which have years of research behind them to prove their
efficacy.
There are other excellent diets on the market and we can help you
choose, and also help to set up a feeding schedule to ensure your
puppy’s optimum growth rate. In general, no matter what brand
of food is offered, we suggest feeding two meals a day. The total
amount of food will vary depending on your puppy, but feeding
on a schedule will help you with housetraining, as most puppies
need to eliminate shortly after eating... You will also be able to
monitor your puppy’s growth and adjust the serving size
accordingly.
There is no need to add any vitamins or supplements to a good
quality puppy food, as these products are already completely
balanced for growth. Adding vitamins or minerals can cause
problems—too much of a nutrient can be just as bad as too little.
For example, too much calcium in the diet can cause painful bone
conditions, especially in large breeds.
CHAPTER FOUR
SPAYING AND NEUTERING
All of the doctors at Southtowns Animal Hospital recommend
that you spay or neuter your puppy. Not only do these
procedures stop unwanted litters and reduce pet overpopulation,
the surgery also has definite health benefits which you can discuss
with the doctor.
GIRLS
Female dogs are spayed. This surgery involves removing both the
uterus and the ovaries. When this surgery is performed before a
dog’s first heat cycle, the risk of breast cancer is virtually
eliminated. Even if your puppy is spayed after a heat cycle, the
risk of breast cancer is still greatly reduced.
Female dogs that are not spayed are at risk of a serious infection
of the uterus called a pyometra. The dog’s uterus fills with pus
and infectious material, and, if left untreated can rupture and
cause an abdominal infection, sepsis, and death. 
The only treatment for a pyometra is to spay the dog and remove
the infected uterus. However, the risks for this surgery are greatly
increased because the dog is sick. The infected uterus is very
fragile, and the risk of life-threatening bleeding is also increased.
The cost is often thousands of dollars. Having your puppy spayed
at the appropriate age is sound health care.
BOYS
Male dogs are neutered. This surgery involves surgically removing
both testicles. Ideally this surgery is performed before six months
of age. Dogs that are neutered will not get testicular cancer, and if
they are neutered young enough, the risk of certain other tumors
of the rectal area are virtually eliminated. Neutered dogs also have
fewer prostate problems in later life.
Neutering male dogs reduces the chances that the dog will mark
with urine and also reduces the desire of a male dog to roam.
CHAPTER FIVE
DENTAL HEALTH
Many people are surprised to learn that dogs should have their
teeth brushed daily. They assume that feeding hard kibble or
crunchy biscuits will do the job, but, sadly this isn't the case. All
hard foods do is just break into smaller pieces without actually
cleaning anything. Some dogs don't even chew hard foods. Chew
toys and rawhides help, but usually do not clean all the teeth.
We have several sizes and styles of toothbrush and we also have
pet-safe toothpaste for you to use. Not only does it come in
flavors such as poultry and seafood, it is also safe for dogs to
swallow. Human toothpaste is toxic to animals and should never
be used.
It is best to teach a dog to have its teeth brushed when it are very
young. Your puppy will learn to have a pretty smile as it learns to
sit and stay. Most dogs will accept tooth brushing with a little
training and gentle persistence. It is important to take things slow
when introducing something new and be sure to not turn the
activity into a wrestling match.
Begin by gently rubbing and touching your puppy’s muzzle. You
don't even need to have a toothbrush or paste at this point. Just
begin handling your puppy around the face and nose as part of his
daily cuddle. Tell your puppy how wonderful he is while you do
this, and offer a treat. As time goes on, try placing one finger
onto his teeth, or just lifting up the lips for a second or two. This
is a perfect time for praise and a treat. Once your puppy is used
to having his mouth handled, keep doing the same thing, only very
gently rubbing your finger along the OUTSIDE of the teeth. Then
it is treat time again! You don't need to force your puppy to open
its mouth. Virtually all plaque and tartar is on the outside of the
teeth. Try putting a little pet toothpaste on your finger as a treat.
It will help your puppy learn that tooth brushing is a fun activity!
Once your puppy has accepted your handling of his face and
doesn't mind you rubbing at his teeth, it is time to begin brushing!
Some animals accept this faster than others. It is always better to
go slow, rather than rush the process. If your pup is becoming
upset or aggressive, stop. Brushing is beneficial, but it is not
worth having someone get bit. To help your puppy accept the
brush, place a dab of pet toothpaste on the brush and let it lick the
toothpaste off the bristles before trying to brush.
There are many products available to use, from soft rubber
brushes that fit over your finger, to specially angled pet
toothbrushes. The best choice is the one that your puppy will let
you use. It is also fine to wrap some gauze over your finger and
just use that. Some smaller breeds have such little mouths that
using a brush is uncomfortable for them, so gauze squares are an
excellent and inexpensive alternative to a traditional toothbrush.
If it is impossible for you to brush your pet's teeth, there are other
products that can help. Only use chews and dental treats which
have the VOHC seal on them. Just keep in mind, there is no food
or chew as good as brushing.
Some things we don't recommend are real bones. They are too
hard, often leading to fractured teeth, and they can cause intestinal
upset or blockages if too much is ingested. Also steer clear of Nyla
brand bones or any hard nylon chew toys, which are also too hard
and can also cause broken teeth.
CHAPTER SIX
SAFETY
Just like human babies, puppies like to play and explore, and they
like to put things in their mouths. Be sure to provide safe dog
toys for your puppy to play with and chew on. Always observe
your puppy when you give a new toy to be sure that a destructive
chewer isn’t able to get pieces off and swallow them.
It is a good idea to get down to puppy level and look for possible
dangers such as power cords that could harm him if they were
chewed or eaten.
Using the crate when you can’t keep an eye on your puppy is a
good way to keep it safe, especially during parties, moving large
heavy items or when cooking. Remember that the crate is not a
punishment! If you need to have your puppy “in his room” for a
little while for his own good, make it a pleasant experience by
giving a special treat or toy. Often, puppies will go into their
crates when they are tired, or want a break from curious children.
If your puppy goes into his crate on his own, praise him, and
don’t allow children to bother him while he is in his crate.
Use care with your puppy around doors and window screens
because they can dart out through a loose door or jump through a
screen to chase a squirrel. Use caution with your puppy if you
have a balcony, because puppies don’t understand heights.
Curious puppies can injure themselves around fireplaces--both gas
and wood burning, and outdoor fire pits and grills can be very
hazardous. Especially because grills smell like yummy food.
Containers of water, buckets, pools, hot tubs, toilets, and fish
ponds can entice a thirsty puppy, who may fall in and not be able
to climb out. Many dogs love to swim, but will have trouble
climbing out of a pool and drown. Always supervise your puppy
when playing in the water.
Warm weather can pose a danger to all dogs, especially breeds
with pushed in faces. High humidity and heat are a recipe for
breathing problems.
Many common foods that are perfectly fine for people to eat are
extremely toxic to dogs. Never give your puppy any of the items
on the following list, and contact the hospital if it ingests them
accidentally.
Chocolate
Grapes
Raisins
Garlic
Raw yeast dough
Fat & fatty foods
Alcoholic drinks
Tea leaves
Avocados
(especially pits)
Onions
Xylitol
Macadamia nuts
(artificial sweetener)
Coffee & grounds
Spoiled foods
Drugs and medications, especially some common over-thecounter products, are toxic to dogs. Puppies, due to their small
size, can be at greater risk if these medications are ingested. If
your puppy eats ANY human medication, even if it NOT on the
list, call us immediately or seek help at a 24 hour emergency
facility.
Ibuprofen
Anti-depressants
Aspirin
Acetaminophen
Prescription drugs
Multi-symptom
Diet pills
cold and flu medication
Tobacco products
E-cigarettes & “juice”
Illegal
substances
Common household items, such as cleaners, shampoos, personal
hygiene products and deodorizers are often very toxic, or would at
least make your puppy very sick if he ate them. Many room
fresheners and other products also smell edible, with the scents of
cinnamon, vanilla or apples, making them attractive to animals.
Products for car care and home maintenance are dangerous if
eaten.
Detergents
Soaps
Cleansers
Cleaners
Pesticides
fertilizers
Fabric softeners
Air fresheners
Solvents
weed killer
Paints
Rodent bait
Potpourri
Antifreeze
Motor Oil
Even everyday items kept in almost any home can be hazardous to
your curious puppy. Sharp plastics can pierce and damage the
stomach and intestines if eaten. Small objects such as super balls
or tiny toys are choking hazards. Soft items like socks can cause
blockages. Some of the items we have had to surgically remove
from puppies include:
Small Balls
Coins
Buttons
Batteries
Twist Ties
Dental floss
Rocks
Staples
Cotton swabs
Hair pins
Nylons
Plastic Wrap
Styrofoam
Socks
Marbles
Underwear
Sanitary Items
Rubber Bands
Some of these items can also be extremely toxic. Pennies are
made of zinc which is poisonous in large amounts and batteries
can be dissolved in the stomach and leak lead and acids into a
puppies system. Be sure your trash, both inside and outside your
home is well-secured and out of reach! Greasy papers, to-go
containers, boxes and plastic wrap that smells like food can be
very attractive to a puppy.
Try to make your yard, garden, and home as safe as possible.
Many common landscaping plants can be poisonous if eaten, as
can many houseplants. This is NOT a complete list, and it is
possible for some plants to be called by many different names.
If your puppy eats any plants you suspect may be toxic, try to
identify the vegetation and contact us, or an emergency facility
right away. We have access to a pet poison exposure hotline, but
there is a fee to use this service. Some common plants to watch
for include:
Aloe
Tulips
Wisteria
Yew
Yucca
Amaryllis
Cyclamen
Belladonna
Autumn crocus
Narcissus (daffodils)
English ivy
Eucalyptus
Hydrangea
Morning Glory
Iris
Snake Plant
Oleander
Bird of paradise
golden pothos
Dieffenbachia (dumb cane)
caladium
Lucky bamboo
Honeysuckle
Philodendron
Jimson weed
Woody Nightshade
Rhododendron
Buckeyes (horse chestnut)
Kalanochoe
Tomato leaves
Sago palms
Lupines
Potato plants
ALL LILIES or any plant with LILY in the name.
Calla Lily
Easter Lily
Lily-of-the-Valley
Peace Lily
Tiger Lily
Daylily
In addition to growing things, other yard and garden items can be
very dangerous: compost, pond algae and fertilizers are also toxic.
Cocoa mulch, made from cocoa bean shells, is especially
dangerous because it smells like chocolate to a dog, and is just as
poisonous. There is also a risk of internal blockage and damage if
the sharp shells area eaten.
Holidays pose a special risk to puppies!
January--New Year--alcohol and chocolate
February-Valentine’s Day--chocolate and flowers
March--St Patrick’s Day--alcohol and fatty corned beef scraps
April--Easter--chocolate, lilies, Easter grass
May--Mother’s Day--ribbons, chocolate
June--Gardening Season--toxic plants, fertilizers
July--Independence Day--picnic foods, fireworks
August--Picnic Season overheating, swimming dangers
September--Birthdays, balloons and ribbons, candles
October--Halloween--chocolate, candy, escapes
November--Thanksgiving--bones, chocolate, alcohol
December--Christmas--water additives, ribbons, bones, plants
CHAPTER EIGHT
PUPPY TRAINING BASICS
HOUSETRAINING
As a general rule, you can expect a puppy to be able to “hold it”
for 1 hour for every month old it is, plus 1 hour. So, a 4 week old
puppy can reasonably be expected to “hold it” for 2 hours, and a 3
month old puppy can usually wait for 4 hours before having “to
go”.  So, as your puppy grows and matures, you can plan trips
outdoors for bathroom needs, or arrange for help from friends or
neighbors if required due to work, or school schedules.
Training a puppy to eliminate outside is all in the timing. Young
puppies have the attention span of dryer lint.  There is SO
MUCH exciting stuff going on outside like smells and sounds and
other animals and people that focusing on peeing outside is not
really on the puppy’s agenda. To help the puppy focus, be sure
that someone is with the puppy at all times on trips to the
bathroom, and the puppy should be on a leash. When you are
within four feet of your puppy you can be sure that the actually
eliminated and not just spent time sniffing around. Puppies do
not automatically understand the outside is for peeing and
pooping in. When you are with your puppy outside, you will be
there to give the puppy IMMEDIATE praise and a treat. Praising
at any other time is not only ineffective, but actually counterproductive. Rewarding a puppy when it returns to the house only
reinforces that it should return indoors as soon as possible.
When puppies in the home, accidents are a fact of life. As with all
babies, it will pass. Honest. We promise. It just *feels* like
forever. Urine accidents should be cleaned up as soon as possible
with an enzymatic cleaner such as “Anti-Icky-Poo” or “Nature’s
Miracle” so that the puppy is less likely to be attracted to the scent
of that area and eliminate there again.
Unless you saw your puppy have the accident, correcting or
scolding it is useless. Dragging the puppy to the scene of the
crime, or worse, pushing his nose in it does nothing at all to teach
it proper bathroom habits.
Most people believe that the puppy knows that it did wrong,
because it is acting guilty. No matter how guilty a puppy loots, he
really has no clue that it did anything wrong when it left you a
present 3 hours ago. All dogs, puppies included, are extremely
adept at reading body language. A sad guilty looking puppy is
merely reacting to your scolding and upset, not because it is aware
it did wrong. Let’s face it…even if you don’t scold your puppy
when you find poop on the rug, no one just LOVES to find poop
on the rug. It is impossible for you to hide your feelings and body
language, and a puppy will pick up on this and act guilty.
The time to correct an accident is at the moment it happens. This
is the time for a firm, deep NO, and the puppy should be instantly
taken outside to finish. Remember that dryer lint attention span?
Correction must be given immediately, just like praise. Even if
your puppy doesn’t finish going when you take it out, it has at
least learned that if you see it put nuggets on the rug, you are
going to be displeased. And, if you take it outdoors each and every
time, he is going to start making connections. Combined with
praise at every success in going outdoors you are teaching your
pup what is expected in a way it can understand.
A crate is a valuable adjunct to housetraining. Proper size is
essential. Dogs are den animals and like to keep their dens clean.
For house breaking purposes, the crate should only be big enough
for the puppy to stand up, lie down, and turn around. If a puppy
is kept in a crate that is too large, it will eliminate in one part, and
sleep in another. Crates designed for large breed dogs often come
with a moveable divider.
We don’t recommend paper training or using puppy pads for
house breaking as this virtually always increases the time needed
to train the puppy. Let’s examine paper training from the puppy’s
point of view: you diligently spend months to teach the puppy to
eliminate on the papers, and then, as soon as success is achieved,
you change the rules. Yesterday, going in the house was not only
ok, but actively encouraged. Then, once the puppy is consistently
using the papers, the rules change, and he is supposed to go
outdoors, where there are no papers. This sudden change in the
rules is very confusing for most puppies.
It is not wrong to permanently paper train your puppy. Many
owners of tiny breeds use dog litter, papers or absorbent pads for
the dog’s whole life. Even some owners of larger breed dogs
choose this option. But, unless you are going to choose indoor
elimination as a permanent thing, it is easier and faster and less
confusing for your puppy to just start taking outdoors from the
beginning.
BASIC MANNERS
No one likes a boisterous, noisy, unruly dog. It is never too early
to begin training your puppy. Just as with housetraining, it is
important to remember that puppies have a very short attention
span--dryer lint short.  Training sessions need to be short,
consistent and always end on a positive note. Now is a good time
to begin gently touching your puppy’s ears, nose, feet and toes and
getting it used to the basics of handling and grooming.
All training begins with SIT, and this is usually the first command
a puppy learns. The easiest way to teach SIT is to show the puppy
a yummy treat, and then slowly move it from his nose, over his
head to behind his ears. Most puppies will want to keep that
yummy treat in sight, and will lift their head up to watch it, and
then, as it moves behind them, the puppy will sit so it can look
upward. As soon as the puppy’s bottom hits the ground, give
praise and give the treat.
Keep in mind that puppies need simple commands, and that those
commands need to be consistent from everyone in the family. If
one family member is saying SIT and another is saying SIT
DOWN, this can be confusing to the puppy and will increase
training time.
At first, the puppy will probably only sit for a second or two.
Gradually increase the time between sitting and when you give the
treat. If the puppy starts to get up as you offer the treat, withhold
the goody and repeat the command until the puppy is sitting
again. Treats come with perfect behavior 
Using a clicker is a great way to train puppies for many people
When you use a clicker, the idea is to teach your dog that the
sound of the clicker means a food reward is coming very soon.
Clicker training isn’t magic, it is a way for people to learn how to
motivate a dog, and how to time your praise. Giving your puppy
positive reinforcement with good timing is a valuable skill for
everyone in the family.
Attending puppy classes for socialization and education is a
wonderful way for you and your family members to bond with
your new pet as well as providing good training. We like the
classes at Eagle Ridge Kennels, and some pet stores as well as the
SPCA often sponsor puppy play groups and basic training for
obedience skills. Keep in mind that classes alone don’t make a
perfect puppy. Practice at home is essential to success. Our staff
has all kinds of tips and tricks to make training your dog fun,
don’t forget to ask when you come in for your regular puppy
visits.
Another good thing do practice with your puppy is touching its
feet, muzzle and toes. This is good practice for nail trims and will
make him familiar with handling if in later life your dog ever needs
ear medications.
This Book was provided by:
Southtowns Animal
Hospital
Medicine and Surgery by Appointment
154 Orchard Park Road
West Seneca, NY 14224
Phone—(716) 824-4108 --Fax—(716) 824-4712
Here are some charts and reference
materials with which all dog owners
should be familiar.
.
In Case of Emergency
There are two After-Hours Hospitals to help you and your pet.
Orchard Park
Veterinary Medical Center
716-662-6660
3930 North Buffalo Street
Greater Buffalo
Veterinary Services
716-839-4043
4821 Genesee Street
Orchard Park, NY 14127
Cheektowaga, NY 14225
Please be aware that there is a fee to use this service
Xylitol Toxicity Chart
Dangerous Hypoglycemia
Weight of Dog Amount of Xylitol
10 pounds
20 pounds
30 pounds
1 gram
2 grams
3 grams
Liver Failure
Weight of Dog
10 pounds
20 pounds
30 pounds
Amount of Xylitol
10 grams
20 grams
30 grams
** This chart is only a guide. Please keep in mind that different brands
of sugarless gum can contain vastly different amounts of Xylitol. If your
puppy consumes or even chews ANY product containing Xylitol this is
an emergency and requires IMMEDIATE medical attention! Please be
able to tell us WHICH brand of gum your dog had access to.
Many clients wonder how old their dog is in “people
years”. The actual calculation is different than the old
saying of “one dog year equals seven human years”.
This chart will help you figure out your dog’s human age.
To keep our fees competitive, we are unable to extend billing or
accept checks. However, we do offer CareCredit, which is a
medical use only credit card that you can use for regular well visits
or if an emergency should arise. For your convenience, we also
accept MasterCard, Visa and Discover.
Many new pet owners wonder if there are insurance plans
available for their pets, and the answer is yes!  The best time to
enroll your pet in an insurance plan is when they are very young,
before there is a problem.
There are many internet pharmacies out there in
cyberspace, some reliable, some not. The veterinarians
at Southtowns Animal Hospital recommends VetSource
to those clients who need medications delivered, or who
prefer the convenience of online shopping.
If you have any questions or concerns about using
VetSource as your online pharmacy for your pet, please
contact the hospital at 824-4108.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Our hospital offers microchip technology services, either in office
or at the time of spay or neuter. Ask for details!
Once your puppy has finished its vaccines and is spayed or
neutered, we invite you to visit our dog park!
Southtowns Animal Hospital Dog Park Rules
Close all gates behind to you ensure the safety of your pet and others.
Access to the dog part is open only to active patients of Southtowns Animal
hospital. Please do not bring friends with their dogs unless they are also active
patients. Active patients are pets who have been seen by one of our staff
veterinarians within a year. Check in at the reception desk BEFORE you play!
Your dog must be current on rabies, and have a tag and/or certificate. We
strongly suggest that since dogs will be interacting closely that they also be
current on Distemper/Parvo, Leptospirosis and Bordetella vaccines.
No puppies under 4 months admitted.
Maintaining your dog on Heartworm and Flea medication is strongly
recommended, but not required to use the park.
All dogs visiting the dog park MUST be spayed or neutered
Your dog must be attended at all times, and under voice command
You are required to clean up after your dog. Please leave the park as clean as it
was when you arrived.
Never allow your dog off leash until you have full entered the dog park and closed
BOTH gates.
No choke, spiked, prong or metal collars allowed to prevent injury to your dog or
other visiting dogs
Children need to be 10 years of age or older to enter, and they need to be
supervised closely. This is a DOG park, not a playground. Since they are small and
nearer to a dog’s eye level, children are more likely to be bitten.
My Dog’s Vaccine History
Name: ___________________________Birthday: ___________
Breed: _____________________________________________
Stool Sample
Heartworm Preventive
Heartworm Test
Dewormer
Bordetella
Lyme
Leptospirosis
Rabies
Parvo
Parainfluenza
Hepatitis
8 weeks
12 weeks
16 weeks
20 weeks
1 year
2 years
4 years
5 years
6 years
7 years
8 years
9 years
10 years
11 years
12 years
13 years
14 years
15 years
16 years
17 years
18 years
Distemper
Age
NOTES
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