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Hair conditioner
Colloids CE 457/527
Juan Carlos Alva Nieto
Ken-Tye Yong
Anthony Rivers
What is hair conditioner?
• To restore hair to its natural state
• Undo damage by giving better look
• Containing cationic surfactants in combination with long
chain fatty alcohol and other lipid components.
• leave the hair to be soft, shiny and manageable
Hair conditioner as consumer
product
Safety concern
•
Toxicity
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Eyes injuries
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Irritation to the skin
Colorants
•
Visual appealing
Preservation of consumer products
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Microbial contamination
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Spread of disease
Hair composition
• Morphological
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Cortex,
Cuticle,
Medulla.
Intercellular cement
• Chemical
• 19 proteins:
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Cystine
Keratin
Glutamic acid.
Leucine, etc.
Interactions of surfactants and
polymer with hair
Three main types of interactions:
• Primary valence bonds (ionic and covalent
bonds)
• Polar interactions (Hydrogen bonds)
• Dispersion forces (van der waals
attractions)
Emulsions
• Emulsion
• Mixture liquid / liquid
• Surfactant / amphiphilic.
• “Water in oil” W/O or “Oil in
Water” O/W.
• Microemulsion
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Spontaneous formation.
Thermod stability.
High solubilization capacity.
Clear appearance.
Oil in Water
O/W.
Water in Oil
W/O
Microemulsions and foams
• Microemulsions
• Liquid / liquid.
• Stability
– Second surfactant.
– Proteins, glucosoides,
lipoids, sterols.
– Size bubble.
• Foams
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Liquid / gas.
Micronic layer
Microscopic bubbles.
Stability
– Second surfactant.
– Viscosity / liquid.
– Proteins (Saponin, etc)
Reconstructer
– Water-based
• Microemulsion
• Foam.
– Solubilized proteins and amino acids.
• Rebuilding blocks, -hair components-.
• Carry and deposit in the hair surface.
– Benefits.
– Flexibility.
– Repair damage.
– Reduction in splits ends.
Formulation
– Hair conditioner composition
Anionic emulsifiers
Glycerol stearate
1.5 % Wt
Cetyl alcohol
3 % Wt
Lubricant additives
Stearyl dimethicone
4 % Wt
Humectants
Glycerin
1.5 % Wt
Propylene glycol
1.5 % Wt
Preservatives
Metyl paraben
0.30 % Wt
Carrier
Deionized water
87 % Wt
Fragance
Not established.
Formulation
– Reconstructer composition
Hydrolyzed
proteins
Keratin, hydrogenated soy, yeast, wheat
germ glycerides.
Amino acids
Cystine, aspartic acid, lauryl glutamate.
Biological
additives
Casein, beer, eggs, nettle extract, etc.
Other
Vitamins B-12, Inositol, Paba, and Iron.
Adsorption
• How the reconstructer works?
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Attachment of the hair conditioner – fundamental.
Adsorption is very important. (large species).
Low enough molecular weight proteins
Penetrate and reconstruct hair fibers.
Detanglers
Objectives and purpose
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Removes tangles from hair
Straighten curly and wavy hair
Able to last for a long period
Improve the texture of hair
Easier to comb
Imparts and glass like shine to hair
Ingredients used in detanglers
De-ionized water (94.6 % wt)
1-hexadecanol (co-surfactant) (2.5 % wt)
Glycerin (humectants) (0.5 % wt)
Stearalkonium chloride (cationic surfactant) (1.5 % wt)
Citrus acid (acidifiers) (0.4% wt)
Colorants (0.2 % wt)
Fragrance (oil) (0.3 % wt)
Functions of ingredients
Stearalkonium chloride (Cationic surfactants)
•
Positively changed nitrogen atom
•
allowed the cationic group to attach negatively charged
surfaces
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Neutralized the electrostatic charges on the hair
1-hexadecanol (co-surfactant)
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Act as solubilizers
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To form better microemulsion
•
Thermodynamically stable system
Functions of ingredients
Glycerin (humectants)
• Attracted to water
• Penetrate the cuticle
• Stabilize the moisture content within the hair shaft
• Soften and swell dry brittle hair
Citrus acid (acidifiers)
• Dissolve the soap residue on the hair
• eliminate greasy, sticking feeling caused by dirt
Making procedure
• Oil-in-water emulsion (O/W)
• Dissolve water-soluble ingredients.
– 60% water
– Heat & Stirring.
• Dissolve oil-soluble ingredients.
– Heat / melt solids.
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Keep stirring -10 / 15 min-.
Add the remained water.
Cool, add preservative and fragrance.
Adjust pH and viscosity.
Packaging reconstructers.
• Bottle.
• Used for the microemulsion.
• Pump finger foamer.
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Instant foaming action (foam).
Mixture liquid/air
No chemical propellant
PET
Easy to operate
Ingredients in Moisturizer
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deionized water
hetoxide G-26
Methyl Paraben
disodium EDTA
Hest CSO
Hetol G
Hetol CA
Hetamid MA
79.03 %
3.0 %
.15 %
.10 %
10.0 %
2.5 %
1.5 %
1.0 %
Ingredients Continued
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Glyceryl Stearate
.70 %
Hetoxamate SA-100
.70 %
Cocoa Butter
.50 %
Hest MS
.50 %
Hetsorb L-20
.20 %
Propyl Paraben
.05 %
Kathon CG
.07 %
Glycerol - thickening agent
Production Machinery
Process Diagram
Colloidal Attributes
• Thickness
– Makes hair thicker, fuller looking
• Ability to stay in hair
– Some conditioners you can leave in all day
• Stability
Design Considerations
• Make hair soft/manageable
– Gives it that shine
• Make hairs all lay the same way
– Makes hair look smooth
• Seals cuticle layer
– Prevents frizzing
• Prevent split ends
Surfactants used in Moisturizer
• Ability to form micelle
• Hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts
• Form cross link
Marketing Considerations
• Labeling
– Tells active ingredients
• Commercials
– Shows results of using product
• Different needs for different hairs
– Sum need more moisture
– Some for dyed, color treated hairs
Packaging
• Materials used
– Post consumer recycled plastics
– Make containers soft, squeezable