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38 Family and LifeStyle DRAFT December 2009 Contents Page 11 Food Culture 11.1 Food heritage 3 11.1.1 Role of food in family and social contexts 3 11.1.2 Regional/national food ingredients and dishes reflecting specific cultures 5 11.1.3 Festive foods 9 11.1.4 Religious foods 15 11.1.5 Nutraceuticals 18 11.2 Factors contributing to the development of a 21 food culture in local and global contexts 11.2.1 Geographical factors 21 11.2.2 Historical and cultural development 22 11.2.3 Food availability 25 11.2.4 Social influences 26 11.2.5 Economic factors 28 11.2.6 Scientific and technological developments 29 Food Culture 1 DRAFT December 2009 Contents 11.3 Relation of food culture and health Page 30 11.3.1 Health issues 30 11.3.2 Cancer 31 11.3.3 Heart Disease 32 11.3.4 Weight Control 32 11.3.5 Government policies 32 11.3.6 The effect of health issues on conventional food 32 11.4 Implications of future market trend 33 11.4.1 Globalization of food trade 33 11.4.2 Changes of socio-economic conditions 34 11.4.3 Change of lifestyles and health concerns 34 11.4.4 Relationships between development of new 35 food products and adaptation of food habits 2 Food Culture 11.4.5 Advancement of food technology 35 11.4.6 Marketing strategies 36 DRAFT December 2009 11 Food Culture The term food culture, or food habits (it is developed through a long history and is adapted by a group of people), describes the ways in which humans use food including selecting, obtaining, preparing, serving and eating the food. This process is complex and it depends on many aspects including environmental and geographical facts, history, economic factors, cultural development, religious factors, etc. The regional and national differences of eating habits are the result of the inter-relationship of these factors. 11.1 Food heritage 11.1.1 Role of food in family and social contexts In the past, the only reason for eating was survival. Food culture was once very simple when women gathered fruits and berries while men were responsible for hunting and fishing. However, as time goes by, human culture has developed into a more complex level. (A) Individual Food becomes the focus of our lives and our daily habits and routines revolve around food. Food plays many different roles in our lives. It provides elements of survival for our body and satisfies our needs for hunger. However, when we eat, we are dealing with many complex issues other than our basic nutritional needs. (B) Family People may have most meals with their family members in their whole lives. A family meal can be a social event. In between meals, family members may share news that happen on the day, as well as their hopes, views and opinions. Family members may show their care for each other by sharing food. Food is the first thing we accept when we first come into the world. When we were a baby, our parents might give food to us whether we were hungry or not. As a result, we learned that giving and receiving food was an important family connection. This would build up the relationship of trust between the parents and the baby through food. Another role of food in a family is that it can be either an award or a punishment. Parents may use food as a tool for disciplining their children. Parents may give messages to their children implying that they might not have a delicious meal if they were naughty. Candies could be an award for children to behave themselves. 3 Food Culture DRAFT (C) Society Food is an important part of any celebration in all nations of the world, regardless of culture or religion. Food carries messages in social customs. It can unite and strengthen community bonds and helps to maintain a common identity among a group of people. Different countries use food in different ways to help celebrate occasions like birthdays, weddings, and other social gatherings. For example, red bean purée with lotus seed and white lily is commonly served in chinese wedding banquet, peach-shaped buns ( 壽包) are traditionally served in chinese birthday parties which symbolise long-life. 4 Food Culture December 2009 DRAFT December 2009 11.1.2 Regional/national food ingredients and dishes reflecting specific cultures (A) Different staple foods In the past, the food supply was only limited to self-production with addition of some local trade. Therefore, the ingredients were constrained by the farming and livestock breeding practices which were influenced by various physical conditions including climate, soil, topography and the availability of irrigating water. Although such an agricultural mode is diminishing nowadays, the eating habits of today’s world population are still dominated by locally produced staples and dietary traditions. Staple foods vary in different cultures. For example, in western India, wheat is usually ground to flour and used to make bread or nann as their staple food. Naan is a large flat round shape bread, which comes in a large variety of flavours and is typically eaten with curry dishes. In central and northwestern India, wheat flour is baked into chapatti, which is an unleavened flat bread eaten with vegetables or curries. The staple food of southern China is mainly rice which is cooked as whole grain and that of northern China is mainly wheat which is usually presented as bread, bun or noodles. In Mongolia, they have no local agricultural products but only livestock. Therefore, their main staple food is meat and milk from their livestock. Figure11.1 shows the world dietary patterns by major food groups. Figure 11.1 Staple foods in different areas of the world (B) Different sauces and seasonings Sauces and seasonings used in different groups of people may be different. Italian food uses various herbs in cooking. Basil, fennel seeds, parsley and rosemary are some common herbs used in Italian food. Spicy seasonings are usually used in Indian and Thai food. Curry, which contains many different spicy seasonings, is a specific Food Culture 5 DRAFT December 2009 sauce in Indian food. Different formula of curry may be used to match different kinds of meat. Soy sauce, oyster sauce, shrimp sauce, rice wines, sesame oil etc. are some common seasonings used in Chinese cuisines. Table 11.2 Different sauces and seasonings used in different regions Race or nation Asia Chinese Indian Europe Italian Sauces and seasonings Soy sauce, oyster sauce, shrimp sauce, rice wines, sesame oil Curry Basil, fennel seeds, parsley, rosemary (C) Representative food items in different regions There are some unique dishes representing a race or a nation. e.g. kimchi in Korea, sushi and sashimi in Japan, la mian and Peking duck in Beijing, baguette in France, curries in India, etc.. Although the preparation methods of these dishes may be different nowadays, people may still match the particular dishes to their original places. Table 11.3 Representative dishes in different regional culture Race or nation Asia Korean Japanese Chinese Indian Europe French Italian Dishes Kimchi, ginseng stewing with chicken Sushi, sashimi, Kobe beef La mian, Peking duck, dim sum Curry Baguette, red wine Spaghetti, gelato (D) Chinese cuisines 6 Chinese cuisines can be generally divided by compass points: Eastern, Southern, Northern and Western. There are similarities and differences among the cuisines in the regions. People can identify the origin of each other by what they eat daily. Chinese cuisines in different regions are united by geography and ethnicity while they are divided by climate, agriculture and tradition. General speaking, the southern dishes stress on the freshness and tenderness while the northern dishes are relatively oily due to the cold weather. In addition, some strong tasting sauces and ingredients such as vinegar and garlic are also quite popular in northern dishes. Table 11.4 shows some characteristics and specific dishes in these four regions. Food Culture DRAFT Table 11.4 December 2009 Specific dishes in Southern, Northern, Western and Eastern of China Regions Representative region Characteristics Specific dishes Southern Guangzhou 1. Stress attention to freshness of ingredients, lightness, crispness in cooking, texture, taste of each ingredient, and eating foods in season. 2. There is a wide variety of foods with roasted meat a regional specialty Dim Sum, Roast Suckling Pig, Roast Duck / Goose, Steamed Fish. Northern Beijing Shandong 1. Pork, duck and mutton are three popular meats. 2. Cereal grains like sorghum and millet are the main carbohydrate source of the northern people Peking Duck, Mutton Hot Pot, Steamed Dumplings. Western Sichuan Yunnan 1. Most dishes are piquant. 2. Uses chili pepper, Sichuan peppercorn, spices, herbs and other flavourings in the food. 3. Foods in the southwest are sour and salty. Cured meat and pickled vegetables are popular in southwest areas. 4. Black tea is popular well accompanied with spiced and oily food. A regional special tea called pestle is also popular in this area. Braised Bean Curd, Strange flavoured Chicken, Sichuan Noodles, Sichuan Spicy Water Boiled Fish, Yunnan Steam Pot Chicken. Eastern 1. Foods are cooked in soy sauce. 2. Use a special black vinegar called Qinjiang vinegar. 3. Use Zhejiang ham. 4. Stresses sweet, sour, salty and spicy tastes in every dish. White Cut Pork with Garlic Sauce, Ham with Honey Syrup, Pancakes with Date purée, Sweet and Sour Spareribs, Stir-fired Eel with Yellow Chives, Hairy Crabs, Steamed Pork Dumplings. Shanghai Food Culture 7 DRAFT December 2009 Along with the history of China after the Tang and Song Dynasties, there are eight popular and different styles of Chinese cuisines appeared. They come from the provinces Shandong (Lu Cuisine) (魯), Guangdong (Yue Cuisine) (粵), Sichuan (Chuan Cuisine) (川), Hunan (Xiang Cuisine) (湘), Fujian (Min Cuisine) (閩), Zhejiang (Zhe Cuisine) (浙), Jiangsu (Su Cuisine) (蘇) and Anhui (Hui Cuisine) (徽) (Table 11.5). Table 11.5 Cuisine Popular Chinese Cuisine from Eight Provinces Brief introduction Typical dishes Shandong Local flavour of Jinan City and Jiaodong (Lu Cuisine) peninsula derived from the use of shallots and garlic. Special in using seafood, soups, meat and offal. This kind of recipe was once serving the emperor. Braised Sea Cucumber, Grilled Prawns Guangdong It is specific in using fine and rare (Yue ingredients cooking with polished skills Cuisine) and in a delicate and delicious style. It emphasises a flavour which is clear but not light, refreshing but not common, tender but not crude. It always requires delicate cutting and carving skills for presenting the sautéed dishes. Roast Suckling Pig, Dim Sum, Won Ton with Noodle in Soup, Salt Baked Chicken Sichuan (Chuan Cuisine) This kind of cuisine combines the cuisines from Chengdu and Chongqing. It is characterised by pungent seasonings which were famed as “three peppers” (Sichuan pepper, pepper and chilli), “three aroma” (shallot, ginger and garlic), “seven tastes” (sweet, sour, tingling, spicy, bitter, piquant and salty) and “eight flavours” (fish-flavoured, sour with spice, pepper-tingling, odd flavour, tingling with spices, red spicy oil, ginger sauce and home cooking) Braised Bean Curd Mapo Tofu, Kung Pao Chicken, Braised Egg Plant with Fish Flavoured Sauce, Fried Pork and Vegetables with Hot and Spicy Sauce Hunan (Xiang Cuisine) The cuisine is oily and greasy. Techniques are stressed in producing crispness, softness and tenderness as well as the savoury flavours and spices. Deep Fried Chicken with Chilli, Lotus Seeds with Rock Sugar, Hunan Style Pickled Pork 8 Food Culture DRAFT December 2009 Brief introduction Typical dishes Fujian (Min Cuisine) It has four distinctive features-fine cutting techniques, alternative soups, unique seasonings and exquisite cooking. Chef experts in Fujian cuisine can always cut the thin jellyfish into three pieces and into very thin threads. The soup is fresh and keeps its own savour easily by making use of the abundant source of marine products. The seasonings add sweet and sour flavours into the dishes. Jumping Buddha Soup, Red Vinasse Chicken Zhejiang (Zhe Cuisine) It consists of hundreds of small delicacies from its main cities. It takes in Hangzhou’s fineness and diversification, Ningbo’s softness and originality and Shaoxing’s pastoral interests. The main cooking techniques are frying, quick-fry, stir-fry, braising and steaming. Fried Shrimps with Longjing Tea Leaves, Steamed Fish in Vinegar Sauce, Ning Po Glutinous Rice Ball, Braised Dongpo Pork Jiangsu (Su Cuisine) It comprises the local recipes of Yangzhou, Suzhou and Nanjing. The dishes are mainly cooked by braising and stewing. It consists of, salty and sweet taste which will soothe people’s stomach. The Jiangsu cuisine has several branches including Shanghai cuisine. Wuxi Style Spareribs, Steamed Pork Dumplings, Sweet and Sour Yellow Croaker Anhui (Hui Cuisine) It is composed of local flavours of Huizhou and other areas along the Yangtze River and the Huai River. There are not many fried or quick-fried dishes among the recipes of this cuisine. Ham and rock sugar are used to enrich the freshness. Fuliji Roast Chicken, Cream Fatty King Fish Cuisine 11.1.3 Festive foods (A) Chinese New Year 9 Chinese New Year is the most important festival for Chinese people. All family members will get together in Chinese New Year and share food. Food Culture DRAFT December 2009 It falls on the 1st day of the 1st lunar month. It originated from the phenomena that people offered sacrifice to gods and ancestors at the end of an old year and the beginning of a new one in Shang Dynasty (about 1600 BC-1100 BC). Relatives will get together to enjoy a luxurious meal at Chinese New Year Eve. Dishes such as chicken, fish and bean curd are almost designated for the festival. In Chinese, these three dishes pronounced as “ji”, “yu”, and “doufu” respectively which mean auspiciousness, abundance and richness. Traditionally, family members will stay together to welcome the New Year. During New Year, people in northern China will eat dumplings or “jiaozi” which means “bidding farewell to the old and ushering in the new”. In addition, the shape of a dumpling is like an ancient gold ingot. Therefore, people take them for wishes of money and treasure. Southern Chinese take Rice Pudding (a pudding made of glutinous rice flour) in Chinese New Year. Rice Pudding in Chinese has a homophone meaning “getting higher and higher every year”. Table 11.6 Special Food for Chinese New Year in different countries Country Special foods China ✧ Chinese New Year Pudding (年糕), which is made of glutinous rice. Chinese New Year Pudding in Cantonese style is sweetened with brown sugar, which expresses people's hopes for perpetual good harvests. ✧ Fishball and lettuce soup symbolise harmony and prosperity (和氣 生財) Korea ✧ dumpling soup Vietnam ✧ meat-filled rice cakes and shark’s fin soup (B) The Lantern Festival In Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 220), an emperor heard that Buddhist monks would watch sarira, or the remains from the cremation of Buddha’s body, and light lanterns to worship Buddha on the1st or 15th of each lunar month. In order to show his respect to Buddha, he then ordered to light lanterns in the imperial palace and temples on this day. Therefore lighting lanterns is an important activity during Lantern Festival. 10 Another activity during Lantern Festival is “guessing lantern riddles”. Lanterns owners may write riddles on a piece of paper and post them on the lanterns. Visitors who are interested in the guessing and have a solution to the riddles may pull the paper out and check their answers with the lantern owners. This activity emerged in the Song Dynasty (AD 960-1279) as riddle guessing is interesting and full of wisdom and so it was so attractive to people. Food Culture DRAFT December 2009 On this day, people will eat yuanxiao, or sweet rice dumplings. It is small dumpling balls with glutinous rice paste skins. The fillings of the rice dumplings may be rose petals, sesame, bean paste, date purée paste, walnut meat, dried fruit, sugar and oil. The sweet rice dumplings can be made by boiling, frying or steaming. They taste sweet and delicious. Another name for sweet rice dumplings is tangyuan with a similar pronunciation with “tuanyuan” in Chinese which means reunion. Therefore, getting union is a main social meaning on this day. (C) Dragon Boat Festival The most popular legend about the dragon boat festival is to memorise Qu Yuan (340278 BC). Qu Yuan was the minister of the State of Chu. Qu Yuen advocated to enrich the country and strengthen its military forces to fight against the Qin. However, he was opposed and defamed by aristocrats and later deposed and exiled by King Huai. Although he was exiled, he still cared very much for his country. After he heard the news that Chu’s capital was conquered by Qin troops, he was very distressed resulting in plunging himself into the Miluo River on the 5th of the 5th Lunar month. Qu Yuan was a good man and was loved by the common people of Chu. Many people of Chu crowed along the river to pay their respects to him. The fishermen sailed their boats up and down the river to look for his corpse. In order to divert possible fish or other marine life attacking his body, people threw rice dumplings in the shape of pyramid wrapping in reed or bamboo leaves, into the river. In addition, an old doctor poured a jug of realgar wine, which was a kind of Chinese liquor seasoned with realgar, into the river to try to drunk the aquatic beasts. To follow the tradition, people nowadays have customs of dragon boat racing, eating rice dumplings and drinking realgar on that day. In the earliest days, rice dumplings was only glutinous rice dumplings wrapped in reed or other plant leaves and tied with coloured thread. However, the fillings are now more diversified including date purée, bean paste, fresh meat, ham and egg yolk as well as abalone, shark’s fin, sea cucumber etc. People may prepare rice dumplings themselves or buy from a shop in every dragon see cucumber boat festival. (D) Mid-Autumn Festival The Mid-Autumn Festival is on 15th of the 8th Lunar month. In the past, farmers celebrated the abundance of the summer’s harvest on this day. People worshiped the moon on Mid-Autumn Festival in the past. This custom can be traced back to the ancient Xia Dynasty and Shang Dynasty of China (20th century BC -1060s BC). Moon cakes were started to be made as gifts for relatives to express their best wishes of family reunion. Nowadays, family members and friends will get together at night to appreciate the full moon in addition to eating mooncakes and pomelos. Food Culture 11 DRAFT The folklore of the origin of Mid-Autumn Festival is so varied and legendary. Here is one of the popular legends about Mid-Autumn Festival. It was said that there was a popular hero called Hou Yi whose wife called Chang E in ancient time. One day Hou Yi got a parcel of elixir which was claimed to be able to ascend anyone taking it to heaven immediately and become a celestial. Hou Yi gave the parcel of elixir to his wife to treasure it. A person called Peng Meng saw Chang E treasuring the elixir and forced her to give the elixir to him. In order to prevent Peng Meng having the elixir, Chang E then swallowed the elixir and her body floated off the ground, dashed out of the window and flew towards heaven. When Hou Yi returned home and knew what happened, he was so sad. He looked up at the round bright moon and surprisingly to find that there was a swaying shadow in the moon that was exactly like his wife. He tried to chase after the moon but failed. He missed Chang E so much and constructed an incense table arranged in the back garden that Chang E loved. He also put sweetmeats and fresh fruits Chang E liked most on the table. (i) Traditional Mooncake ❖ The origin of Mooncake was the round cakes in Tang Dynasty when people enjoyed and worship at the full moon. However, the cake was not called Mooncake at that period. The name of Mooncake originated in Southern Song Dynasty when people sent round moon cakes to their relatives as gifts i n expression of their best wishes of family reunion. Mooncake is round in shape which implies reunion. The habit of eating Mooncake in Mid-Autumn Festival is being kept even now. ❖ There is folklore about eating moon cakes in Mid-Autumn Festival. Group gatherings were banned in Yuan Dynasty (1280-1368) and so it was impossible to discuss plans for a rebellion. Since Mongols did not eat mooncakes, Liu Bowen advised the Chinese rebel leader, Zu Yuanzhang, to time the rebellion on Mid-Autumn Festival. He sought the permission to deliver thousands of moon cakes to the Chinese residents using an excuse of blessing the longevity of the Mongol emperor. In each of the moon cakes, there was a paper with the message “Kill the Tatars on the 15th day of the Eighth Moon” inserted. The rebel was successful and Ming Dynasty was established. Henceforth, moon cakes become a celebrating serving during Mid-Autumn Festival. (ii) Snowy Mooncake ❖ Snowy Mooncake is a type of modern mooncake which was firstly introduced by Tai Pan of Hong Kong in 1989. As the traditional moon cakes give oily and unhealthy feeling to people so Tai Pan has invented Snowy Mooncake which is fresh in taste. 12 ❖ Traditional mooncakes have limited flavours. Compare to traditional mooncakes, Snowy Mookcake is diversified in taste thus it is popular in Hong Kong and leads to dramatically change in the market. Manufacturers promote new flavours for Snowy Mooncakes every year in order to meet changes in consumer tastes and the pursuit of innovation. Fillings of Snowy Mooncakes develop from the first generation of white lotus seed paste and the second generation of the mung bean-paste to the present third generation using cheese-based fillings. Food Culture December 2009 DRAFT December 2009 (E) Winter Solstice Festival Winter Solstice Festival was started during the Han Dynasty (206 BC-220 AD) and became more popular in the Tang and Song dynasties (618-1279). People of the Han Dynasty regarded this as a “Winter Festival”. At this day, there were official celebrating activities. All people would have a rest and gathered to have delicious food. In the Tang and Song dynasties, it was a day to offer sacrifices to Heaven and ancestors. It was even regarded as formal as the Chinese New Year in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) showing the importance of this day. People in some parts of Northern China eat dumpling in soup on this day while some other places eat dumplings. They think that eating dumpling soup or dumpling can keep them from frost in the winter. In parts of Southern China, the whole family altogether has a meal containing red-bean and glutinous rice for the reason of driving away ghosts and other evil things. In other places, people also eat tangyuan in Winter Solstice Festival. The Taiwan people keep the custom of making nine-layer cake in shape of chicken, duck, tortoise, pig, cow or sheep with glutinous rice flour for ancestors worshipping. (F) Christmas Christmas is a day for celebrating the birth of Jesus Christ. It is on 25th December in every year for members of Roman Catholic Church and followers of Protestantism. Mince pies, Christmas cakes, Christmas puddings and turkey are foods that are traditionally eaten in Christmas. (i) Turkey Meat is always centered at the table of a Christmas feasts in different countries. Roasted turkey is a common food serving for this need. It is believed that the act of serving a large roasted joint of meat at Christmas is originated from religious belief of ancient sacrificial rites to appease the gods and a blessing for a good harvest in the coming year. Apart from turkey, common meat served could be beef, mutton, pork, peacocks and swans. (ii) Mince pies (Mincemeat pies) Mince pies are traditional British sweet pastries which are usually consumed in Christmas or New Year celebrations. Each mince pie is about 2-3 inches in diameter being made using either sweet shortcrust pastry or puff pastry. The archetype of mince pie is a medieval pastry called chewette which was either fried or baked. The most original “chewette” contained liver or chopped meat mixed with boiled eggs and ginger as well as dried fruit and sweet ingredients. It was considered to be a Christmas specialty by the 16th century. Nowadays, most mince pies do not contain meat products any more. Suet is used to replace the liver and chopped meat. Folklore states that mince pies are a favourite food of Father Christmas. People may leave one or two mince pies at the botton of the chimney so as to thanks for stockings well-filled. There are some traditions concerning the mince pies: ❖ The content of mince pies should only be stirred in clockwise direction for bringing good luck for the coming year in English tradition. Food Culture 13 DRAFT December 2009 ❖ One should make a wish in one’s first mince pie of the festive season. ❖ Mince pie should always be eaten without making noise. ❖ There should be a star on the top of a mince pie representing the Christmas Star that led the Magi to the baby Jesus in Bethlehem. (iii) Christmas pudding Christmas pudding is originated from plum pottage serving during festivities in the medieval period. Plum pottage was a meat broth thickening with breadcrumbs and dried fruits seasoned with wine and spices. Meat was later removed becoming the form known to us nowadays. Christmas pudding became a Christmas specialty after it was introduced to the Royal Christmas dinner table by Prince Albert in 18th century. (iv) Christmas cake A Christmaas Cake is a rich fruit cake with marzipan and icing on a rich fruit cake specify a Christmas cake. In the earliest time, there were no toppings on the Christmas cakes but it was introduced as a custom by the Victorians. Decoration using marzipan is believed to be linked to the Tudor Marchpane, which is made by powdered almonds, pounded sugar (icing sugar) and rose water (water flavoured with rose petals), acting as the table centerpiece during banquets and festive occasions. Table 11.7 Special Foods for Christmas in different countries Country Special foods Britain, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa ✧ mince pie ✧ fruit cake France ✧ black and white pudding, which is sausage containing blood. French Canada ✧ desserts include doughnuts and sugar pie. Germany ✧ gingerbread biscuits and liqueur chocolates Nicaragua ✧ chicken with a stuffing made from a range of fruits and vegetables including tomato, onion and papaya. Russia ✧ a feast of 12 different dishes, representing Christ’s disciples. 14 Food Culture DRAFT December 2009 (G) Easter Easter is originated from a Spring early harvest festival (effectively the Jewish Passover). It was set at Nicaea that Easter Day should be a Sunday. Easter day should be celebrated on the first Sunday after the first ecclesiastical full moon. By this calculation, Easter day falls between March 21 and April 26. In related to Easter, Lent is the preceding period of forty days in preparation for Easter. In the early days, farmers did not eat eggs during Spring and Lent in order to keep enough hatch for chickens, ducks, etc. Eggs then became available for eating purpose in Easter. Therefore, eggs have become a specialty in Easter. Table 11.8 Foods eaten during different festivals Festival Festival food Chinese New Year Chicken, fish, bean curd The Lantern Festival Sweet rice dumplings Dragon Boat Festival Glutinous rice dumpling Mid-Autumn Festival Moon cakes, cooked taro, water caltrope Winter Solstice Festival Sweet dumplings Christmas Buche de Noel, candy canes, Christmas swans, Christmas geese, Christmas turkeys, Christmas cookies, fruitcake, gingerbread, mincemeat pies, oranges, Christmas pudding, stollen, sugarplums, twelfth night cakes, wassail and eggnog, Yorkshire stand pie Easter Easter egg, chocolate Easter egg, Easter bread (Russian kulich), hot cross buns 11.1.4 Religious foods Different religions have their rationales for particular eating practices and restrictions. Some practices and restrictions can be traced back to early concerns for health and safety in consuming food or liquids. In the past, there were not many preservation methods available. Therefore, religious leaders developed rules about the consumption of foods and drinks, religious practices, restrictions, and laws. Table 11.11 shows some brief notes of eating practices and restrictions of some religions. Food Culture 15 DRAFT Table 11.9 Type of religion December 2009 Eating practices and restrictions of some religions Practice or restriction Rationale Buddhism ✧ Buddhists believe that Buddha cycled through various animal forms before he took on the form of a human b e i n g s o refrain from meat, vegetarian diet is desirable ✧ Moderation in all foods ✧ Fasting is required for monks ✧ Natural foods are considered most pure ✧ Monks avoid all solid food after noon Eastern Orthodox Christianity ✧ Restrictions on meat and fish ✧ Fast selectively ✧ Observation of Holy Days includes fasting and restrictions to enhance spiritual development Hinduism ✧ Beef prohibited ✧ All other meat and fish restricted or avoided ✧ Alcohol avoided ✧ Numerous fasting days ✧ Cow is sacred and can’t be eaten, but products of the “sacred” cow are pure and desirable ✧ Fasting promotes spiritual growth Islam ✧ Regulations surrounding food ✧ Eating is for good health are called ‘halal’. Prohibited ✧ Failure to eat correctly foods are called ‘haram’ minimises spiritual ✧ Pork and certain birds prohibited awareness ✧ Alcohol prohibited ✧ Fasting has a cleansing ✧ Coffee/tea/stimulants avoided effect of evil elements ✧ Foods that contain emulsifiers (as emulsifiers may be made from animal fats), canned vegetables that include emulsifiers, frozen vegetables with sauce, particularly margarines, and bread or bakery that contain dried yeast ✧ Fasting from all food and drink during specific periods 16 Food Culture DRAFT December 2009 Type of religion Practice or restriction Rationale Judaism ✧ ‘Kashrut’ refers to the laws ✧ Land animals that do not pertaining to food in the have cloven hooves and Jewish religion that do not chew their cud ✧ ‘Kosher’ means that a food is are forbidden and regarded permitted or ‘clean’ as unclean (e.g. hare, pig, ✧ Pork and shellfish prohibited camel) ✧ Meat and dairy at same meal ✧ Kosher process is based prohibited upon the Torah ✧ Leavened food restricted ✧ Fasting practiced Mormonism and beverages ✧ Caffeine is addictive and ✧ Alcohol containing caffeine prohibited leads to poor physical and ✧ Moderation in all foods emotional health ✧ Fasting practiced ✧ Fasting is the discipline of self-control and honouring to God Protestants ✧ Few restrictions of food or ✧ God made all animals fasting observations and natural products for ✧ Moderation in eating, drinking, human’s enjoyment and exercise is promoted ✧ Gluttony and drunkenness are sins to be controlled Rastafarianism ✧ Meat and fish restricted ✧ Pigs and shellfish are ✧ Vegetarian diets only, with scavengers and are salts, preservatives, and unclean condiments prohibited ✧ Foods grown with drinks permitted; ✧ Herbal chemicals are alcohol, coffee, and soft drinks unnatural and prohibited prohibited ✧ Biblical texts support ✧ Marijuana used extensively use of herbs (marijuana for religious and medicinal and other herbs) purpose 17 Food Culture DRAFT Type of religion December 2009 Practice or restriction Rationale Roman Catholicism ✧ Va r i a t i o n s o f f a s t i n g o r abstinence are o b s e r v e d by some Roman Catholics on such occasions as Lent or Good Friday. Meat restricted on certain days ✧ Fasting practiced ✧ Restrictions are consistent with specified days of the church year Seventh-day Adventist ✧ Pork prohibited and meat and fish avoided ✧ Vegetarian diet is encouraged ✧ Alcohol, coffee, and tea prohibited ✧ Diet satisfies practices to “honour and glorify God” Table 11.10 Hong Kong holidays (including public holidays and school holidays) related to religion Religion Festivals Date Buddhism Buddha Birthday The 8th day of the fourth Lunar month Confucianism Confucius Birthday The 27th day of the eight Lunar month Christianity and Protestant Community Christmas Easter 25th December In between 21st March and 25th April 11.1.5 Nutraceuticals The term nutraceutical was created from the terms “nutrition” and “pharmaceutical” in 1989 by Stephen DeFelice, MD, founder and chairman of the Foundation for Innovation in Medicine. 18 Nutraceutical refers to the foods that are claimed to provide medical or health benefits as well as to prevent or treat a disease. Nutraceuticals range from isolated nutrients, dietary supplements and specific diets to genetically engineered designed foods, herbals foods and processed food such as cereals, soup and beverages. People are more and more interested in nutraceuticals and functional foods which are driven by progressive researches to identify potential nutraceutical substances and Food Culture DRAFT December 2009 their applications in response to increasing public interest and consumer demands. The reason of the growing nutraceutical market is that people pay more concerns on health. More and more books and magazine articles report the relationship between diet and health as well as the concept of nutraceuticals. The blooming of information through internet makes the delivery of the message of preventing / treatment of disease through functional food much easier than before. (A) Examples of nutraceuticals (i) Nutraceutical grouping by food sources can be divided into plant, animal and microbial. For example, one of the plant sources of nutraceutical is oat or oat meal. Federal Drug Adminstration (FDA) has allowed label on oat or oat meal products to claim that diet high in these cereal products with low saturated fat and cholesterol contents may reduce the risk of coronary heart disease. (ii) Nutraceutical can also come from non-food sources, for examples bacteria and algae. Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), which is claimed to have anti-inflammatory, anti-thrombotic, immunomodulatory and triglyceride-lowering activities, can be obtained from bacteria and algae. Salmon fed with EPA producing algae may also have high level of EPA. Nowadays, nutraceuticals are going to be produced through molecular biotechnology which incorporates the genes associated with EPA production into non-EPA producing organisms. This lowers the production cost and optimizes production. However, debate also arises concerning the regulation and public acceptance. Apart from the oat and EPA, there are many other nutraceuticals that are claimed to be beneficial to human health, for example, beta-carotene, lycopene, flavonoids, gramma-linolenic acid, anthocyanins etc. (B) Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) and Health According to the concept of traditional Chinese medicine, food and disease cannot be separated. Many kinds of food can be a drug and a drug can be a kind of healthy food. The most important theory in Chinese medicine is balance, i.e. balance between “Yin” and “Yang” or “Hot” and “Cold” in common. Diseases are caused by the imbalance of “Hot” and “Cold” in the body. In the food system of TCM, there are a total of five types of food: cold, cool, mild, warm and hot. The body can be tuned to a balanced state by consuming the right type of food. This can then keep the body healthy. There is a golden rule for practicing TCM diet: “Heat up the cold body, cool down the hot body, nourish those who are deficient, dissipate the excess within”. Understanding the theory of balance, keeping an eye on the imbalances in our body and continuing to practice of the golden rule is the three keys to maintain good health according to the theory of TCM diet. Table 11.11 shows some examples on the five types of food. 19 Food Culture DRAFT Table 11.11 Characteristics Cold, cool, mild, warm and hot foods Cold Cool Mild Warm Hot Sago, glass noodles, aloe vera, beancurd sheets Straw mushroom, mint, chrysanthemum, Luo Han Kuo, bird’s nest, wheat, barley, vermicelli Steam white rice, small red bean, peas, soybean, red rice, deep-fried bean curd, almonds Peanut, nuts, instant noodles, toast, baked bread, glutinous rice, chestnut, milk chocolate Black and white pepper, dark chocolate, curry, Korean ginseng Winter melon, cabbage, water chestnut, eggplant, golden mushroom Loofah, watercress, white turnip, green turnip, lettuce, lily bud, salt-sour cabbage, preserved salty pickle, lily bulb Steamed food, choi sum, sweet potato, corn, white long beans, green long beans, potato, broccoli Pumpkin, preserved Szechuan pickle, onion, mustard, lemongrass Garlic, ginger, chili, Watermelon, pear, banana, lemon tea, prune Star fruit, green grape, pineapple, green tea, olives, raw tomato, refined sugar, dragon fruit, candied winter melon, ice-cream, soy milk Apple, strawberry, red grape, fermented red beancurd, black grape, blueberry, coconut, tea, jam, lotus seed paste, custard, braised food Peach, stirfried food, sweet-tasting food, dried fruit, donuts, coconut milk, longan, cookie, pan fried food, red wine Deep-fried foods, barbecued foods, hot pot foods, mango, coffee, lychee, durian, spicytasting foods, strong alchohol Hokkaido Meats, Dairy crab, hairy products crab, echinus, mud crab, jelly fish, clam, goose Salted fish, frog, pig’s blood, pig’s lung, salted duck egg, egg white, fresh milk, abalone, duck Duck’s leg, duck’s tongue, sweetened condensed milk, pork, pig’s heart, squid, fish liver oil, salmon, egg yolk Goose liver, chicken, bacon, dried meat, preserved Chinese meat, cheese, pig’s liver, garoupa Ox tongue, lamb, beef, ox tail, snake, eel, lobster, pawn, dried shrimps, mutton Crops, beans and herbs Vegetables Fruits, wine, beverages, snacks, sauces, taste, desserts 20 December 2009 Food Culture DRAFT December 2009 11.2 Factors contributing to the development of a food culture in local and global contexts Food culture of a place usually arises from people’s origin no matter they still live there or not. Basically, food culture is moulded by a series of factors including geographical factors, historical and cultural development, food availability, social influences, economic factors, scientific and technological development, etc. The following are some brief introduction of these factors. 11.2.1 Geographical factors The eating habit and food availability can be affected by the geographical differences in different areas. Different climate and soil conditions determine what can be grown in the area. These differences include sunlight, water availability, temperature, etc. As seen in Figure 11.3, the staples of different places consumed are different due to the fact that different crops can be successful grown in different places under various climatic conditions. (A) Temperature The climatic differences are mainly based on the differences in temperature. (i) Temperate and subtropical areas, where the agricultural growing seasons may be up to six months, may have relatively high precipitation and marked seasonal temperature difference. (ii) Drier temperate continental areas such as prairies and steppes (grassland with very few trees) have much seasonal rainfall with cold winters. The productivity of relatively dry, temperate zones can be increased by the practice of irrigation. (iii) Mediterranean areas including California, Chile and parts of the Near East have cool, wet winters and hot, dry summers which are suitable for the growth of many of the major cereal crops of the world. Maize or corn in Middle America, wheat and barley in the Near East, rice in Asia, and sorghum in Africa are some of the cereal crops grown in the Mediterranean areas. (iv) Tropical areas are warm throughout the year with frequent seasonal rainfall. Today the agricultural practices in these areas include a form of shifting, swidden, or slash-and-burn cultivation. (B) Soil Soil is a living and dynamic ecosystem. It determines what can be grown in the area. “Ideal” soil for agriculture is made up of 45% minerals, 5% organic matter, and 50% space filling half with water and half with air. Food Culture 21 DRAFT However, soil in each site or location has unique properties that form different soil formation and ultimately determine what is suitable to be grown in the site. The pH, drainage condition and texture of soil can affect the crop performance and suitability. For example, alfalfa grows best in soils having a pH of 6.2 to 7.8, while soybean grows best in soils with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Peanuts grow best in soils that have a pH of 5.3 to 6.6. Many other crops and vegetables are also relying so much on soil for the best nutrient absorption. There are some locations which are special and extremely fertile. For examples, in prairies, the soil is basically black in colour which is called chernozem. This soil is extremely fertile which is very suitable for crop cultivation. Soil erosion is a serious problem for a long time. This is mainly caused by growing a single crop in a field for a long period and by the use of chemical fertilizers. Crop rotation and organic farming are being introduced for relieving the stress of losing cultivable lands. In crop rotation, different crops are being grown in an area sequentially in different periods depends on the requirement of the crops. There will be a period of “rest” which no crops are being grown on the land but animals such as sheep and cows are being fed on it. Their droppings will fertilize the land again for another cycle of cultivation. Organic farming is a hot topic in recent years. Environmental-protection advocates promote the use of organic fertilizers and organic methods for farming. Nowadays, more people are aware of the benefits of organic farming and become supporters on this issue. This changes the food choice of some groups of people that they may choose vegetables and crop from organic farms. (C) Other geographical factors Other geographical factors including rainfalls, wind, sunshine, etc. are also affecting food production in different areas. For examples, the average rainfall in Southern Asia is always higher than that in Northern Asia. Therefore, rice which needs more water for growth is cultivated in Southern Asia while wheat which can grow under water limitation is cultivated in Northern Asia. 11.2.2 Historical and cultural development (A) Ethnic groups History of a country or an ethnic group greatly affects food culture. (i) 22 Italy “Italian food” was called “Roman food” in the past and changed to “Italian food” at some point. “Roman food” was characterized by the use of lovage, rue, and other herbs which were absent from later Italian cooking. In addition, a fermented fish sauce called garum was used in ancient “Italian food”. Early Roman had no pasta. In modern Italian cooking, rosemary and oregano are used instead of lovage and rue and the garum sauce is evolved into modern anchovy preparations. The fall of the Roman Empire and the invasion of the Arabs led to the changes in Italian food. The Arabs introduced many new kinds of food including rice, sugar, oranges and the sharbats which was later developed into ice-cream. The Arabs also changed the spicing pattern. However, the Arab dishes in Italy were lost during the Renaissance. Nowadays what we think of “Italian food” is bread, olives, Food Culture December 2009 DRAFT December 2009 wine and tomato sauces. Actually, tomato became popular in the late 18th century and truly prevalent in the 19th century. The origin of tomato sauce was simply a Mexican salsa recipe and so there was a phenomenon that some Mexicans inspired modern Italian cuisine. From the above example, we can see that wars, the sovereignty, culture invasions, introduction of new food ingredients, etc. can all affect the development of the food culture in a country or an ethnic group of people. (ii) China Chinese cuisine is changing along with the history. The changes in the food ingredients play an important role in the development of Chinese cuisine. Chinese cuisine accepts foreign ingredients such as wheat and barley. The building of 11 canals which began as early as in 403-221 B.C. had helped the transportation of foods from one area to another. In 139 B.C., there was an emperor bringing back pomegranate, sesame, coriander, clover, alfalfa, grapes, etc. from Turkestan. Many of these were integrated in Chinese cuisines. Chinese believes that food and medicine are one and food can provide both nutrition and health. Many cuisines are developed based on this concept. The third reason that drives the change is the interest and desire of Chinese people. This results in the development of a wide range of foods appearing in Chinese cuisine. The last reason for the change of Chinese cuisine is related to the long history of Chinese culture. Cooking methods and food ingredients change with time. A dish varies from period to period because the cooking method and food ingredients used may be different in different periods. (iii) Hong Kong Due to Hong Kong's past as a British colony and long history of being an international city of commerce, many cultures and tastes are represented in Hong Kong's world of dining. e.g. Chinese cuisine including Cantonese, Chiu Chow, Peking, Shanghainese, Szechuan & Hunan etc, Western cuisine including French, Italian, Greek, Mexican etc, and other Asian cuisines including Japanese, Korean, Thai, Vietnamese, Indonesian etc. Following are some classic examples of Hong Kong cuisine / restaurants that reflect the food culture in Hong Kong: ❖ Cha chaan teng ✐ a type of Chinese tea restaurant originated in Hong Kong, known for its eclectic and affordable menus which include many dishes from Hong Kong cuisine and Hong Kong-style Western cuisine. ✐ it serves a wide range of food, from steak to wonton noodles to curry to sandwiches. Some of the popular foods commonly found in a cha chaan teng include Hong Kong-style milk tea, Yuanyang (a mixture of coffee and Hong Kong-style milk tea), iced coffee with lemon, Ribena with lemon, egg tarts, pineapple bun, HK-style french toast, butter and jam on toast, instant noodles in soup with egg and luncheon meat, sweet sauce chicken wings, stir-fried instant noodles, etc. Food Culture 23 DRAFT ❖ Private kitchen ✐ They are places with no registered company name and are located in residential buildings; there are no walk-in customers, and reservations need to be made, sometimes more than one month in advance. ✐ No menus from which to choose items; food is determined by the owners. No service charge, no credit cards are accepted. Some private kitchens advertise their price, menu and location through their o w n i n t e r n e t homepages. ✐ Prices for a meal range from HK$200 to $500, which is not considered inexpensive compared with other restaurants serving similar food. ✐ With such underground and seemingly exclusive operations, and with culinary techniques always promoted as home-styled cooking, food offered in such private kitchens carries an image of comfort and home. ❖ Yum Cha ✐ In Hong Kong, yumcha is a tradition on weekend mornings when families meet, chat, eat dim sum and drink Chinese tea together ✐ yum cha is also a morning ritual for the elderly to spend a good part of the morning after early morning exercise of tai chi or a walk ✐ dim sum dishes are usually served in a small steamer basket or on a small plate. Some traditional dim sum dishes include roast pork buns, shrimp dumplings, and steamed rice rolls, chicken feet, spring rolls, Malay steamed sponge cake, egg tart etc. ❖Dai Pai Dong ✐ a type of open-air sidewalk Chinese-style food stall that has Hong Kong flavour, was once very popular in Hong Kong. ✐ it is characterised by the big wok, big electric fans with no air conditioning, messy environment, as well as a variety of low priced dishes of good quality ✐ foods commonly served in dai pai dongs are distinctly Cantonese, with fried rice and fried noodles, as well as a lot of meat, seafood and vegetables dishes which are mostly strongly flavoured. The selling point of these foods is their crispiness, tastiness and full of 'wok hei' (the good smell and taste created by frying foods with a ‘big wok’). ✐ the traditional dai pai dong is a good place for social gatherings where customers are free to talk very loudly (B) Religious beliefs Along with a long history of a country, the power of religious beliefs accounting for the development of food culture can be great. 24 The changes of religions alter the foodways of a place. Some religions order sharing sacrifices for eating. Others ban meat consumption at least for holy devotees. The ones who do not eat meat believe in “nonviolence” because meat involves the killing of animal. Food is a basic and universal human concern. It is an important thing in Food Culture December 2009 DRAFT December 2009 religions as a symbol, subject of prayers, a marker of sharing and unsharing, and for communion purposes. Here is an example of how religious power changes the food culture and even the food availability of an area. (i) The spread of Islam throughout the southeastern part of Asia, especially Indonesia, led to a progressive disappearance of pigs. (ii) The food law of Judaism is called the laws of kashurt. Modern Jews still follow the law in our present society. According to the law, pork, which is considered as an unclean animal, seafood without fins and scales and blood are prohibited. Animals are ritually slaughtered to ensure that most blood is drained away. Meat and milk cannot be consumed together based on the injunction against cooking a kid in its mother’s milk. Hygienic concern may be a factor of establishing the law. However, the most important factor is to lend a spiritual dimension o n eating habits. The idea is that Jews should not eat anything that involves spiritually negative things such as pain, sickness, uncleanness, or cruelty to animals. 11.2.3 Food availability What kind of food is available in an area is determined by various factors. Almost all foods are of plant or animal origin. Geographical and historical factors discussed above are the main causes of the development of the staple and indigenous foods. The climate and soil conditions of different areas directly affect and determine the main kind of food available on the land. New food sources might be introduced into an area by immigrants, rulers, travelers, etc. The main purpose of food was to provide calories for survival in early days. Therefore, the staples are usually some starchy food including rice, wheat, root tubers etc. which provided the main energy sources. This basically determines what are eaten in different areas. Noodles, bread, cakes can be found from areas growing wheat. Steamed rice can be found from areas growing white rice. Over 2,000 plant species are consumed as food. The parts of plants for consumption are most probably the energy reserving part of the plant. Seeds of a plant are often packed with high energy for the germination of a new plant. Therefore, many foods consumed by humans are seeds including cereals (maize, wheat, rice), legumes (beans, peas, lentils) and nuts. Many oils extracted from plants are mostly from seeds of plants such as peanut, sunflower, rape seed and sesame. Different animals are available in different areas. Camels can be found in northern China and so people living there, especially in Mongolia, use camel’s milk to produce yoghurt. Dairy cattle are available in most European countries and Australia and therefore cow’s milk from these areas is very popular. Fish is the main food for fishermen and people living in coastal areas. People in inland areas seldom eat fish or seafood since keeping the freshness of fish and seafood throughout the transportation can be very difficult. Accompanying by the advances in transportation technology, there is no boundary for the availability of food nowadays. Food from different countries can be moved around all over the world. The globalization of food sources transforms the traditional dishes Food Culture 25 DRAFT December 2009 into a new enjoyment. Creativities are based on crossing over different cultures in a single dish. This makes food choice no longer limited to the food available around local regions but can be extended to all over the world. Table 11.12 Examples of sources of food from different countries Food Source (countries) Rice Southern Asia (China, Thailand, Taiwan, India etc.), Australia, America, Japan Wheat Northern Asia, Northern America, Europe, Australia Milk Northern America, Europe, Australia, Mongolia Maize Southern America, Southern Africa, Korea Roots and tubers Central Africa Camel and goat Mongolia Fish Coastal areas 11.2.4 Social influences Food conveys social messages in a society group. Apart from the basic need of energy from food, eating is a matter of social event, especially in a feast. Different customs, traditions, eating habits and lifestyles decide what is eaten in a feast. In a Chinese formal feast, there is a general order for which dish is to be served first and which is to be the last. Figure 11.15 gives two examples of Chinese feast menus. As seen in the menus, some dishes are in common and the order is similar. Shark’s fins, fish, chicken, noodles, rice, dessert are some components commonly found in a Chinese feast menu. Everyone going for a formal feast may expect they would have these foods in the meal. It is accepted through common practices and becomes a custom. In Chinese, food is a tool for showing respect to others. Host would like to serve other with luxurious food like lobsters, shark’s fins, abalone, etc. rather than common food if possible. 26 Food Culture December 2009 DRAFT Roasted suckling pig with jelly fish Sautéed scallop with sliced squid Deep-fried shrimp ball Braised vegetables with ham Braised shark’s fin with shredded chicken and bamboo (半隻) half pig Braised hairy cucumber with conpoy and sea moss Steamed double sea garoupa Deep-fried crispy chicken with garlic Fried rice with shredded chicken in twin sauces Soft-fried noodles Sweetened red bean paste with lotus seeds and lily bulbs Assort sweets Fresh fruit platter Roasted suckling pig with assorted roasted meat Sautéed Shelled Shrimp with vegetables Sautéed sliced squid with vegetables Braised shark’s fin with seafood and bamboo fungus Braised four kinds of vegetable in Portuguese sauce Steamed abalone with tangerine Steamed garoupa Deep-fried crispy pigeon Fried rice in lotus leaf Noodles in soup with pickled vegetables and shredded pork Assorted sweets Fresh fruit platter Food Culture 27 (兩打 twelve pieces) 富 貴 帶 子 花 姿 蜜 奶 香 酥 蝦 丸 金 華 雙 翡 翠 乳 豬 大 拼 盤 竹 熱葷 hot pot 笙 彩 翠 龍 虹 鳳 皇 鮮 花 燴 蝦 枝 生 仁 片 翅 葡 汁 焗 四 寶 蔬 陳 皮 蒸 鮮 鮑 魚 清 蒸 大 海 班 脆 皮 燒 乳 鴿 畔 塘 荷 葉 飯 搾 菜 肉 絲 麵 線 窩 美 點 或 蟠 桃 合 時 鮮 果 盤 鴻 運 乳 豬 伴 海 蜇 熱葷 hot pot 紅 燒 竹 笙 雞 絲 翅 發 財 玉 環 瑤 柱 甫 清 蒸 雙 海 斑 蒜 花 脆 皮 燒 雞 太 極 雞 絲 飯 吉 祥 伊 麵 百 年 行 好 運 美 點 或 蟠 桃 環 球 生 果 盤 Two typical examples of a formal Chinese feast / banquet menu Figure 11.13 喜慶全包宴 Feast menu 鴻運全包宴 Feast menu DRAFT Food in a society has a function of “solidarity”. In most situations, eating together means sharing and participation. People like having communication throughout a meal sometimes accompanied with beer or wine. There is a natural link between sharing food and being personally closer together. In personal meetings, most people like to meet in venues serving with drinks or food such as cafés, coffee shops, bars, western restaurants, etc. Notably, communications sometimes involve a stimulant such as caffeinated or alcoholic drinks, for so called “better communication”. These stimulants sometimes may remove the invisible barrier between people, however, sometimes may become the source of violence triggered by small conflicts. “Seperation” is the other function of food. This separates different groups of people according to their social classes, ethnicities, families, networks, friendship groups, religions, nationalities, etc. People of similar background would like to gather for a meal. Lower class people may not easily have meal with higher class people. They may feel embarrassed in such situation. Types of food consuming in higher class society is totally different from those in lower class society. This is the same in other groups of people. People of different religions are difficult to join each other having a formal feast since they may have different preference for food under different religious rules. In a society, people can identify each other by the type of food they consume. The differences in customs and traditions also affect the utensils used in a meal. Chinese and some other Asians use chopsticks or fingers. Europeans and Americans use folks, spoons, and knives. In a formal set meal in Western countries, a series of utensils are being used. The right utensil must be chosen for each dish while using the wrong one may be regarded as impolite. This is regarded as table manner which concerns food-related etiquette. 11.2.5 Economic factors Economy is a main shaper of the foodways for most people over the history. Agriculture in areas under poverty is only a matter of producing food that people can afford. This means that they produce their staple as cheap as possible. They have no choice on what they eat. In a prosperous country, economic determines which plants or animals can be produced cheaply as well as sold at the best price. Traditionally, the food product on a land also involves the factors of land and labour. Crops such as rice which takes the least land will be favoured in countries with abundant labour. Labour is not a problem in China where the labour cost is low. Therefore, rice dominates the South China because it produces many grains per acre through weeks of works per acre. Crop like wheat that needs less labour is available in areas where labour is scarce and land is abundant. For this reason, wheat dominates the north plains of North America as well as many plains in the Near East. 28 Economic status, especially the product prices, changes the eating habit of people. Nowadays, some formerly expensive foods like white bread and white sugar are very cheap due to the advancement in industrial processing techniques. On the other hand, formerly very cheap foods like vegetables are now becoming expensive because of environmental devastation. Brown rice was cheaper than white rice in the past because it required less processing. However, the longer storage time of white rice has lower its price compared to brown rice nowadays. Nowadays, organic foods are Food Culture December 2009 DRAFT December 2009 more expensive than the conventional ones. However, people pay more attention on the value of organic foods. It may become a trend and the price may be lower in the future due to the keen competition into the market. The health expenditure of people increases with the increase of Gross Domestic Product (GDP). Figure 11.16 shows the relationship between health expenditure and GDP in Hong Kong from 1989-2005. People are willing to pay more for health and health food when their income increases. This makes people try to eat healthier. The introduction of a new technology into its industry may suddenly make a particular food cheap and then the consumption level goes up. This may change the staple food of the people. Per capita health expenditure and GDP (current price), 1989/90 – 2004/05 (Adapted from Food and Health Bureau, Hong Kong SAR) 12,000 10,000 200,000 8,000 150,000 6,000 100,000 4,000 50,000 9/ 9 19 0 90 /9 1 19 91 /9 2 19 92 /9 3 19 93 /9 4 19 94 /9 5 19 95 /9 6 19 96 /9 7 19 97 /9 8 19 98 /9 9 19 99 /0 0 20 00 /0 20 1 01 /0 20 2 02 /0 3 20 03 /0 4 20 04 /0 5 2,000 Per capita GDP (HK$) 250,000 19 8 Per capita health expenditure (HK$) Figure 11.14 Fiscal Year Per Capita Total Domestic Health Expenditure (HK$) Per capita GDP (HK$) 11.2.6 Scientific and technological developments Food technology affects how and what people eat from the far ancient up to present. Primitive people were hunters and gatherers. They invented tools and techniques for maintaining a livelihood in the wilderness. This was the basic eating culture for survival in the wild in the past. Later, agriculture and stock-breeding appeared in different parts of the world. Farmers and stock-breeders developed techniques for sedentary crop growing and dairying as well as ways of preserving their food surpluses. The industrialization of food production started in the 19th century in several European countries and similar societies such as the USA and Australia. The rapid development of scientific knowledge changed the lifestyle including the ways of food consumption Food Culture 29 DRAFT in the 19th century. During the industrialization, food was produced in large scale. After 1800, food-related knowledge in chemistry, biology and physiology including nutrition and microbiology boosted up quickly and integrated together to be very specific. The changes in technologies in production, processing and packaging of food mean the changes of food consumption practices of people. Using advanced food production and processing technologies changes the traditional practices of people of consuming foods. Spray-dried milk powder, coffee powder, fruit juice powder as well as tea bags are some of the examples. These can also increase the shelf-life of foods. Advancements in storage and packaging technologies such as deep-freezing, vacuum packaging and freeze-drying, enhance the storage period of food. These storage technologies are being incorporated with advanced transportation methods such as aeroplanes, huge ships with deep freezers, refrigerated lorries etc. Foods then are not limited at locally but worldwide. Companies try to explore more markets to sell their products for higher profit. This increases the varieties of food available for people. Hong Kong people can get salmons from Norway, abalone from Australia, foie gras from France with comparable freshness as those in the country of origin as original. New technology on microwave food is emerging in recent years. It changes the lifestyle of many people by cooking less at home. People pay more and more attention to what they are eating and food safety. The trend of organic farming has emerged under this situation. Apart from technological development, many scientific data appear to support the functional properties of some food components. For example, scientific research has shown that high fibre diet can prevent colon cancer. Many people pay more attention to their diet by eating more fruits and vegetables. More and more food products are produced with health claims according to scientific studies. High fibre, high calcium, low fat, low calories food products are appearing in the market due to the strong demand of consumers. Food choice of people changes along with the new findings in food science research. Recently, there is a 4-year research regarding the antioxidant content in organic vegetables conducted by Food Standards Agency in United Kingdom (U.K.). It is found that the milk of cows fed with organic feeds contained 90% more antioxidants than that feeding with conventional feed (Available: http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/ news/uk/health/article2753446.ece). This large project has concluded that organic vegetables and fruits may contain more antioxidants which are regarded as wholesome components against various diseases. This finding may further encourage people to eat more organic vegetables and fruits rather than the conventional ones. 11.3 Relation of food culture and health Health issues affect the food consumption pattern of a community. Nowadays, consumers pay more attention to what they are eating than before. Food which is “less healthy” becomes less attractive to them. 11.3.1 Health issues 30 In 2007, the first three leading causes of death in Hong Kong were malignant neoplasm, or so called cancer in common, heart disease and pneumonia (Table 11.17). More and more people are being alert in the prevention of these diseases, especially cancer and heart disease, by changing their own daily life style and eating habits. Food Culture December 2009 DRAFT December 2009 Table 11.15 Number of Deaths by Leading Causes of Death in 2007 Order Cause of death Number of Death 1 Malignant neoplasm 12316 2 Heart Disease 6372 3 Pneumonia 4978 (Data from Centre for Health Protection, HKSAR) 11.3.2 Cancer Some kinds of cancers, especially colon, rectum and anal cancers which are the second large cancer group in Hong Kong in 2006 (Table 11.18), are related to our diets. There are some kinds of food, such as deep-fried foods (French fries), salted fish, pickled foods (pickled vegetables), barbecuing food, etc., that are believed to increase the risk of cancer. They may contain a certain type of carcinogens, such as acrylamide, which are the substances that may increase the risk of cancer by altering or damaging the cellular DNA and leading to abnormal and uncontrollable proliferation of cells. Carcinogens can be produced by processed food (deep-frying, pickling, barbecuing etc.). Consumption of these foods frequently may increase the risk of gastrointestinal cancers. Fat may also increase the chances of cancer. Many researches have showed that animals fed with high-fat diet developed tumors more readily in their mammary gland, intestine, skin and pancreas. Therefore, avoiding eating processed food and high-fat food may lower the chance of cancer development. Table 11.16 Number of cases of three most common cancers in 2006 Order Cancer site Number of new cases 1 Lung 4233 2 Colorectum 3918 3 Breast 2595 (Data from Hong Kong Cancer Registry, Hospital Authority, HKSAR) 31 Food Culture DRAFT 11.3.3 Heart Disease Heart disease can be caused by high blood cholesterol level. Oxidized cholesterol can be accumulated in the foam cells which are involved in the formation of pathogenic plaque. The development of plaque may cause the blocking of coronary blood vessels and thus leads to heart disease. Many kinds of food, such as egg yolk, squid, shrimp, etc., contain high content of cholesterol. Many people now pay more attention to this and try to avoid eating too much food containing high cholesterol content. Many food products that claim to have low or even no cholesterol have appeared in the market. It is believed that food high in dietary fibre, especially those containing high content of β-glucan from oat, can lower the blood cholesterol level. The viscous β-glucan is proposed to be effective in interfering with the reabsorption of bile acids and hence resulting in a negative sterol (cholesterol) balance. Therefore some products containing high dietary fibre content are claimed to be able to lower blood cholesterol level. 11.3.4 Weight control Many people are yelling for losing weight or slim figure. Beauty companies are then set up for this purpose. Recently, many advertisements are focusing on how to lose weight or keep a slim figure. People try to reach this target by various ways such as dancing, changing their eating habit to low calorie diets, medication, etc. This also promotes the needs of low-calorie food and low-fat food. 11.3.5 Government policies Government policies play an important role in community health issues. In order to promote a healthy life in Hong Kong, the Hong Kong Government established a “two plus three everyday” programme in 2005 to encourage people to eat 2 servings of fruits and 3 servings of vegetables daily. This educates Hong Kong people to pay more attention to their health in daily life. 11.3.6 The effect of health issues on conventional food Merchants notice the trend of consumers’ food choice. Many Chinese traditional foods, which are high in fat, cholesterol and energy content, are concerned as “unhealthy”. In addition, many people are yelling for weight control in recent times. Many advertisements focus on helping people to loss weight by various methods. People tend to eat food with lower calories. Food industries are trying to transform conventional food to be a “healthier” one. (A) Snowy Mooncake 32 Snowy Mooncake is one of the most classic examples of how conventional food modified to go along with the health concerns of consumers. Tai Pan is the first inventor of Snowy Mooncake. In the past, people bought mooncake as a gift for others. Not too many people prefer eating mooncakes because of its “unhealthy” oily texture. In addition, traditional mooncakes contain egg yolk and sweet lotus seed paste which Food Culture December 2009 DRAFT December 2009 are high in calories and cholesterol. Therefore Tai Pan looked into this market and promoted Snowy Mooncake that is without egg yolk and lotus seed paste to the market. Nowadays, many different types of Snowy Mooncakes appear on the market. (B) Rice dumpling Another traditional food, rice dumpling, also keeps changing along with the trends of health issues. Traditionally, pork and salted egg yolks, which are high in fat and cholesterol, are the main ingredients in salty rice dumplings. For sweet rice dumplings, bean paste and lixivium are used in the traditional processing. Nowadays, there are so many rice dumplings with health claim appeared in the market. Vegetarian rice dumpling is one of the examples. These rice dumplings contain neither meat nor salted egg yolk, but in some cases contain brown rice which contains high content of vitamins, minerals and dietary fibre. (C) Cakes Traditional cakes are made of whole eggs and use much cream for decoration. As people are concerning more on healthy eating, the ingredients used in making cakes change from time to time. The most obvious evolution of cakes is that less cream is used for decoration, and other ingredients such as colourful fresh fruits are used to decorate the cakes. Angel cakes which are claimed to have no egg yolk also appear in the market recently. Apart from using less cream and egg yolks, whole wheat flour is used for the production of cakes. Some cakes may have a crispy bottom made of whole wheat flour and this crispy bottom may even increase different mouthfeel of the cake. 11.4 Implications of future market trend 11.4.1 Globalization of food trade Globalization fosters the interaction of various geographical groups. As a result, habits of food consumption are influenced. Air transportation shortens the time in product delivery. Many agricultural and processed foods are highly perishable. The short delivery time enables more people to know and enjoy these easily perishable foods, which are previously unknown to them. Together with improved preservation technologies of fruits and vegetables, perishable foods can now have much longer shelf-life. We now can enjoy much more varieties of food than our parents. The general expansion of our knowledge makes us more curious on new things, and increases our desire to taste foods from other areas of the world. Thus, there are many new innovations in foods introduced to the market. One of them is fusion food. Fusion food is food made by a style of cooking that uses ingredients and cooking techniques from around the world, especially combining the eastern and western styles. Since food trade is very glorious in Hong Kong, world food ingredients can easily be found in Hong Kong. People like adding new elements into traditional ones. There are now some Food Culture 33 DRAFT restaurants combine Japanese and Western food ingredients and cooking techniques. For example, stir-fried Italy rice with mushrooms, butter, spices and chicken soup is filled into a roasted squid which usually appears in a Japanese recipe. 11.4.2 Changes of socio-economic conditions The upgrading of living quality has impact on the foods that consumers purchase. More and more people prefer “organic” foods rather than inorganic, because they believe organic vegetables and fruits are much more healthy foods. In addition, people are more concern about genetically modified (GM) foods. They will question whether the crops are grown from genetic modified seeds. More affluent society cares for food packaging. The biodegradable materials are preferred as materials, as common plastics damage the environment which is definitely not friendly to our next generation. “Fair trade” is one of the activities initiated by “Oxfam”. It requests consumers to refuse buying food items that are made with crops purchased from third world country farmers with “suppressed” (unfair) prices. For example, the expensive coffee sold in Starbucks was made from coffee beans bought from Brazil at extremely low price. The issue of fair trade urged Starbucks to pay the coffee bean farmers fairly and eventually Starbucks surrendered. Nowadays, Oxfam continues to deal with other international food producers and such movement is gaining more popular attention. 11.4.3 Change of lifestyles and health concerns Knowledge and education will eventually “mature” our community. More and more people get to know their own bodies better, and try to control their own health condition. As excess sugar and fat are the main causes of metabolic diseases, many people will switch to foods with sugar and/or fat replaced by other ingredients. There are functional foods that are incorporated with nutritional ingredients as main components for health function. Nutraceuticals are natural plant or animal extracts for specific health function. Both functional foods and nutraceuticals are expected to have huge growth in coming years. Furthermore, some of them may modify their functional ingredients, so that they can prevent or treat certain specific diseases, acting as the potential alternative medicine. (A) Hong Kong traditional Chinese restaurants 34 In Hong Kong, there were many Chinese restaurants serving Chinese tea and dim sum before World War II. The first Chinese restaurant was established in 1846 in Sai Wan. The number of Chinese restaurants increased to over 30 in 1900. Drinking tea and eating dim sum early in the morning became an indispensable activity in Hong Kong people’s life since early 1920’s. In 1980’s, night activities of Hong Kong people became more prevalent. Therefore, some Chinese restaurants started to provide meal services to customers late at night. Traditional Chinese food contains much oil and salt. In recent years, caring more about health, food claimed to be low oil and salt content appears in Chinese restaurants. Food Culture December 2009 DRAFT December 2009 (B) Fast food restaurants In the past the attractiveness of fast food to Hong Kong people was “fast”. They can give you what you want almost as soon as you have made the order although the food may not be very delicious. This caters for the rush cadence of Hong Kong people. However, this was no longer the case in late 20th to 21st centuries when people become wealthy and paying more attention to their health. Fast food restaurants change their style to provide more delicious and healthy food for customers. “Fast food” is not that “fast” anymore. (C) Trendy food culture Hong Kong people have a high degree of adaptability to new things. Many foreign foods such as bubble tea, sorbet, Pastel de nata, Japanese pizza and cheese cake etc. were introduced to Hong Kong in 1990’s. These all became trendy foods and many chain stores of the specific food products were opened in 1990’s. 11.4.4 Relationships between development of new food products and adaptation of food habits The pace of life and work of city dwellers is fast and all is about efficiency. They even demand high speed in food preparation or cooking. As a result, more and more “convenience” or even “instant” foods appear on the market. For example, instant drinks and soups are available already. There are two types of instant drinks, one is prepared by adding water to cordials (concentrated fruit juices), and the other is just powder. Instant soup is prepared in the same way by adding boiling water to concentrated canned soup, or soup powder. It is expected that such trend will continue. Cooking Chinese dishes require a variety of food materials including sauces. In the market and shops, pre-packed cut and cleaned food components are available. At home, people just place everything in the cooking pan and the dish will be served in minutes. It is expected that varieties of such ready-to-cook foods will increase to cater for other non-Chinese dishes. In Europe and America, the so-called TV dinner is available in the supermarkets. These are the deep-frozen but cooked dishes packed in microwavable containers. The consumer only needs to open the package and reheat the dish in the microwave oven for minutes before dinner is served. Such similar type of food is gradually getting popular in Hong Kong. 11.4.5 Advancement of food technology New technology gives birth to developing new food products, or conventional foods but presented in a more sanitary condition. Following are some examples: (A) HPP stands for high pressure processing and it is also known as cold pasteurisation. Food Culture 35 DRAFT It is a modern technology with extra high pressure that kills bacteria and micro-organisms in the food without heating. In this case, we can enjoy many types of seafood like fresh oyster by using HPP. Moreover, vegetables and meat can be sterilised in ozone water, thus producing “cleaned” salad and sashimi that can be consumed safely. (B) Critical carbon dioxide extraction technology will be commonly employed in extracting functional phytochemicals from herbs or traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) without degradation. These natural chemicals are precious components used in the manufacturing of a variety of functional foods, nutraceuticals, or therapeutic foods. (C) Encapsulation of nutrients and other food ingredients is another valuable invention. For example, if fragile “probiotics” are protected in the micro-enteric coatings which are incorporated into various food systems, people can consume non-yoghurt type probiotic foods for improving our digestive tract health. 11.4.6 Marketing strategies Food providers apply various strategies to promote their company image and products. During the course of action, consumers’ eating culture is influenced. Firstly, restaurant people will locate their business in two different styles. Business with similar nature will form some type of “theme” market. For example, there are the fresh seafood villages at Saigon, Lai Yue Mun, Lamma Island etc. that customers have selection among restaurants for dinning but only limited to mainly seafood. On the other hand, there are food courts in large plaza or shopping mall which attract street customers and visitors. A variety of fast foods are served in food courts to increase the convenience for people during shopping. Then, individual or chain restaurants promote their image so as to identify their specific customer groups. For example, Ah Yat Abalone diners target at high income class, who appreciate the delicacy of abalone cooking. McDonald’s has successfully identified the children’s segment of the market by offering birthday party programmes for children. De Coral advertises high value dishes with bargain prices on television, thus creating the middle class culture. Similarly, both the international restaurant chain Pizza Hut and the domestic chain restaurant Satay King have special marketing strategies that engage young people. Food manufacturers are using television commercials of their products as a marketing strategy to build up a food culture in their targeted groups. Yakult tries to educate school children that fermented milk drink is a daily must. Vitasoy promotes its products to young people with body gesture and words commonly used in their daily lives. These products definitely contribute in shaping our food culture. 36 Food Culture December 2009 DRAFT December 2009 Not for Sale The copyright of the materials in this booklet belongs to the Education Bureau. The materials can be used by schools only for educational purpose. Written prior permission of the Education Bureau must be sought for other commercial uses. Food Culture 37 DRAFT 38 Food Culture December 2009 DRAFT December 2009 39 Food Culture DRAFT 40 Food Culture December 2009 38 Family and LifeStyle