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12/09/11 Physical oceanography, MSCI 3001 Oceanographic Processes, MSCI 5004 Dr. Alex Sen Gupta Equation of motion a=ΣF/ρ What forces might cause a parcel of water to accelerate? [email protected] Movement of the ocean (a) Wind Forced Motion = (1/ρ)x( wind - friction + rotation + tides gravity+ buoyancy + pressure differences ….) A sum of forces. du 1 = ( Fg + FC + FP + Ff + ...) dt ρ Newton’s Laws of Motion Vertical direction: What are the forces acting in the up-down direction? The boxes weight is acting downwards (mg) The pressure at the top of the box is also trying to force the box downwards. But the pressure at the bottom of the box is trying to force it upwards (the difference in the pressure forces is just the buoyancy force discussed for Archimedes) P=F/A Ftop dw 1 dp =− +g dt ρ dz In general over the ocean vertical acceleration is much smaller than g. This means that in the vertical equation g and 1 dp must be of similar magnitude ρ dz P dp = ρg dz Acceleration = 1/ρ(sum of forces) = 1/ρ(weight + Ftop - Fbottom) Bouyancy due to difference in pressures P+ΔP Fbottom Weight (mg) z dw 1 dp =g− dt ρ dz This is called the hydrostatic equation We can integrate this equation since density and g are essentially constant. p h dp ∫0 dz dz = ∫0 ρgdz Or simply p = hρg Which you are hopefully familiar with already! 1 12/09/11 Hydrostatic equation tells us that pressure = weight of water above you (in this case higher on the right) Newton’s Laws of Motion Horizontal direction Acceleration = 1/ρ(sum of forces) = 1/ρ(Fleft - Fright) P Barotropic and Baroclinic Motion du 1 dp =− dt ρ 0 dx P+ ΔP and du = − 1 ∂p Remember, p = ρgz , dt ρ ∂x Mixed situation Fright Fleft x ρ1 Or doing the same in the y-direction: dv 1 dp =− dt ρ 0 dy Barotropic Ocean For a constant density ocean, we can write the pressure gradient in an easier way. du 1 ∂p =− Remember, p = ρgz , and dt ρ ∂x η1 η2 d P2=h2ρg P1=h1ρg h1=d+η1 So we are left with Δx h1=d+η1 du ∂η = −g dt ∂x ∂p Δp p2 − p1 = = ∂x Δx Δx h ρg − h1 ρg = 2 Δx (d + η 2 ) ρg − (d + η1 ) ρg = Δx (η 2 − η1 ) = ρg Δx ∂p Δη = ρg ∂x Δx < ρ2 Motion due to density differences Coriolis Force - Summary • The Acceleration due to the Coriolis force is fv (x direction) and -fu (y direction) i.e the Coriolis Force x the velocity… • It only acts if water/air is moving (i.e a secondary force) • Acts at right-angles to the direction of motion • causes water/air to move to the right in the northern hemisphere • causes water/air to move to the left in the southern hemisphere E.g. Foucault’s Pendulum … 2 12/09/11 The Equations of Motion ! du 1 ! = #F dt " ! du 1 = #F dt " x Simplifying the Equations: dv 1 = #F dt " y Consider the situation where there are no pressure forces dw 1 = #F dt " z Acceleration = Pressure Gradient Force + Coriolis du 1 dp =" + fv dt # dx Horizontal Equations: ! Acceleration = Pressure Gradient Force + Coriolis du 1 dp =" + fv dt # dx dv 1 dp =" " fu dt # dy Or, for a Barotropic Ocean: dv 1 dp =" " fu dt # dy du d# = "g + fv dt dx dv d# = "g " fu dt dy If pressure gradients are small: du = fv dt dv = " fu dt ! Vertical Equation: ! ! Pressure Gradient force = Gravitational Force dp = ρg dz Inertia currents ! Acceleration = Pressure Gradient Force + Coriolis Scaling arguments: What forces are important in a bath tub? du 1 dp =" + fv dt # dx What kind of speeds will the water get up to? What kind of accelerations? What surface slopes? dv 1 dp =" " fu dt # dy Need to look at the relative sizes of the terms in the equation. But first, choose which version of the equations are most appropriate. du 1 dp =" + fv dt # dx dv 1 dp =" " fu dt # dy If pressure gradients are small: Inertia currents ! du = fv dt dv = " fu dt the water flows around in a circle with frequency |f|. du d# = "g + fv dt dx dv d# = "g " fu dt dy T=2π/f T(Sydney) = 21 hours 27 minutes ! In a bathtub, density is pretty much constant, so conditions will be BARATROPIC ! ! 3 12/09/11 f=1.5x10-4 x sin(lat) Scaling arguments: What forces are important in a bath tub? What kind of speeds will the water get up to? What kind of accelerations? What surface slopes? Size of the pressure force: dη = 0.1m / 1m = 0.1 dx dη g = 10(0.1) = 1ms − 2 dx Size of the Coriolis force: fu = 7 x10 −5 ×1 = 7 x10 −5 ms − 2 du d# = "g + fv dt dx dv d# = "g " fu dt dy So Coriolis<<Pressure, so we can neglect rotation effects But the ocean is not a bathtub…. We will conduct a scaling analysis on our equations of motion ... to find further simplifications for motions with a period greater than ~10 days du 1 =" dt # Scaling Analysis: dv 1 T~10 days = 8.64 x 105 s ~ 106 s =" dt # u,v ~ U ~ 1cms-1 - 1ms-1 dp + fv dx dp " fu dy f~ 10-4 s-1 du dη ≈ −g dt dx ! Acceleration in the bathtub is driven by pressure differences (due to changes in surface slopes) Acceleration << Coriolis ! Pressure forced motion – Geostrophic Transport Geostrophic Balance Acceleration is much smaller than Coriolis and Pressure Gradient Force (this is true almost everywhere in the ocean) The ocean is in Geostrophic Balance (= balance between Pressure Gradient and Coriolis Forces) Ocean is in “Steady State” (no acceleration) du/dt is negligible du 1 dp =" + fv dt # dx 1 dp = fv " dx dv 1 dp =" " fu dt # dy 1 dp = # fu " dy dη dx dη fu = − g dy fv = g Or if conditions are baratropic (constant density) ! ! Ingredients: (1) Pressure force acts from high pressure to low pressure (2) Coriolis always tries to push a moving object to the left (SH) or right (NH) Imagine that somehow water has been piled up in some area e.g. by the ac7on of winds. What happens when the wind stops? L H 4 12/09/11 Pressure forced motion – Geostrophic Current Geostrophic Currents Ingredients: (1) Pressure force acts from high pressure to low pressure (2) Coriolis always tries to push a moving object to the left (SH) or right (NH) Pressure Force = Coriolis Force SH Example So, no net force on the water (looking down on the ocean) So keeps on going L Pressure Force High pressure H Low pressure horizontal pressure gradient force Coriolis Force Extends down to the deep ocean Water flow Geostrophic Eddy 1 dp = fv ! dx (Northern Hemisphere) Which direction is the Geostrophic wind? (f <0 SH) y Geostrophic Current • Current that is produced when Pressure Force and Coriolis Force balance • In the NH the final geostrophic current will flow at 90 degrees to the right of the pressure force • In the SH the final geostrophic current will flow at 90 degrees to the left of the pressure force x PG CF V 18 1 ! 1 ! dp = fv dx dp = ! fu dy dη dx dη fu = − g dy fv = g Like this the equations say: Pressure force is balancing Coriolis Like this the equations say: If we know the pressure force (or surface slope), we can calculate how fast the water is moving 1 dp ! f dx 1 dp u=! ! f dy v= g d! f dx g d! u=! f dy v= 5 12/09/11 Effects of Friction Thermal Wind Balance • So far we have assumed that density ρ is constant (barotropic) • Small horizontal changes in ρ can result in large vertical changes in current/ wind – e.g. near fronts and eddies So far we have neglected friction. A simple model for the frictional force at the sea floor in the x and y direction is: − ru − rv and h h h is the depth and r is the dissipation constant Baroclinic velocity changes with depth CORRECTION Rayleigh frictional dissipation, r is a coefficient (r ~ 10-7ms-1) du d# ru = "g + fv " dt dx h dv d# rv = "g " fu " dt dy h Hence the equations of motion become : ρ1 < ρ2 Motion due to density differences 21 ! Thermal Wind Balance Thermal Wind Balance For geostrophic conditions: The vertical structure of u and v is related to the horizontal density gradients dv g d" = dz "f dx du g d" =# dz "f dy Baroclinic velocity changes with depth NO CORIOLIS Baroclinic velocity changes with depth WITH CORIOLIS THERMAL WIND What does this mean… d! dx dv Then the north-south water velocity will change with depth dz If there are density changed in the east-west direction ! ρ1 < ρ2 ρ1 < ρ2 Motion due to density differences 6 12/09/11 Use thermal wind to calculate the east-west water speed at 45 S? Use thermal wind to calculate the east-west water speed at 45 S? S Pole 1000km Equator dv g d ! = dz ! f dx du g d! =! dz ! f dy 1027 2000 m 1027.5 Depth of no motion d ! 1027 !1027.5 = dy 1000, 000 =-5x10-7 kg/m4 Given that u & v = 0 at 2000m (depth of no motion) Given that u & v = 0 at 2000m (depth of no motion). du 10 =! (!5 "10 !7 ) dz 1000(!10 !4 ) =-0.00005 m/s/s Use thermal wind to calculate the east-west water speed at 45 S? Thermal Wind Balance For geostrophic flow (i.e. pressure is balanced by Coriolis): S Pole 1000km Equator 1027 2000 m 1027.5 Depth of no motion du = !0.00005 m/s/s dz This means that every meter that you go downwards the eastward water velocity (u) decreases by 0.00005m/s OR that every meter that you go upwards the eastward water velocity (u) increases by 0.00005m/s Moving upwards 2000m the increase in u velocity will be 2000x0.00005=0.1m/s But we know at 2000m u=0 So the surface velocity will be 0 + 0.1 = 0.1m/s • Geostrophic flow in the presence of horizontal density gradients • Horizontal density gradients (T,S) can explain vertical velocity changes • To know absolute velocity we need extra information (i.e. we need to know absolute velocity at some depth) dv g d" = dz "f dx du g d" =# dz "f dy ! - Can figure out surface velocity from surface heights. - Often we assume that at a certain depth (e.g. 2000m) velocities are zero – this is called “the depth of no motion”. - Once we know the velocity at the surface or the depth of no motion we can calculate velocity at all other depths using the thermal wind equation. Water at the surface is moving at 10cm/s to the east (the Antarctic Circumpolar Current) 7 12/09/11 Summary: Ocean Dynamics Most of the motion in the ocean can be understood in terms of Newton s Law that the acceleration of a parcel of water (how fast its velocity changes with time – du/dt) is related to the sum of forces acting on that parcel of water. We can split the forces, velocities and accelerations into south-north (y,v), west-east (x,u) and up-down (z,w) components. In the vertical direction the acceleration is related to the difference between the water weight and the bouyancy (or pressure) force. When there is a vertical density gradient this leads to oscillations (Brunt Väisälä frequency N). The density gradient tries to inhibit vertical motion (and mixing). These vertical accelerations are generally very weak, so we get the hydrostatic equation. If the hydrostatic equation is integrated over depth, it just says that the pressure at a point just equals the weight of water above that point. dp = ρg dz Acceleration in the horizontal can be driven by a number of different forces: (1) The pressure gradient force. This exists whenever there is a surface slope and/ or a horizontal density gradient. (2) Coriolis (because we live on a rotating planet). It is very weak, so we only feel its effect over long times (> few days) and large distances (> 10s of km). Coriolis only affects moving fluids, deflecting to the right in the NH and to the left in SH. (3) Friction. Also only acts on moving water. Always acts to slow down motion. Important at the boundaries of the ocean. Summary: Ocean Dynamics Or for a constant density (barotropic ocean): du 1 dp =" + fv " ru dt # dx dv 1 dp =" " fu " rv dt # dy du d# = "g + fv " ru dt dx dv d# = "g " fu " rv dt dy dp = ρg dz ! Over much of the ocean, the flow is steady (i.e. du/dt=dv/dt=0) and friction is negligible, so we are left with the geostrophic balance i.e. pressure gradient forces ! at right angles to the pressure gradient. balance coriolis. The current moves P 1 dp 1 dp = fv , = # fu " dx " dy C When there is a horizontal density gradient the velocity changes with depth. This can be calculated using the thermal wind equations ! dv g d" = dz "f dx , du g d" =# dz "f dy ! Wind Driven Motion Background – wind forced motion Track of the Fram as Fridtjof Nansen attempts to drift to the North Pole in his ship (1893-1896). Vagn Walfrid Ekman (1874-1954), Swedish oceanographer, developed theory of Ekman spiral from Nansens observations. http://maritime.haifa.ac.il/departm/lessons/ocean/lect01.htm 8 12/09/11 Wind forced motion – EkmanTransport Ingredients: (1) Wind force acts in the direction of the wind (2) Coriolis always tries to push a moving object to the left (SH) or right (NH) Wind forced motion – EkmanTransport Ingredients: (1) Wind force acts in the direction of the wind (2) Coriolis always tries to push a moving object to the left (SH) or right (NH) SH Example (looking down on the ocean) Wind Force Wind forced motion – EkmanTransport Ingredients: (1) Wind force acts in the direction of the wind (2) Coriolis always tries to push a moving object to the left (SH) or right (NH) Wind Force = Coriolis Force SH Example So, no net force on the water (looking down on the ocean) So keeps on going Wind Force Coriolis Force Only affects water in the top few 10s of meters Equations of Motion du d! " = !g + fv + x ! ru dt dx #h " dv d! = !g ! fu + y ! rv dt dy #h i.e the acceleration of water towards the east depends on: • any east-west pressure force • The velocity of the water in the north-south direction (which determines the strength of the east west Coriolis force • The east-west wind force • The velocity of water in the east-west direction (which determines the strength of the friction) Water flow 9 12/09/11 Equations of Motion du d! " = !g + fv + x ! ru dt dx #h " dv d! = !g ! fu + y ! rv dt dy #h For large scale, long timescale, throughout most of the ocean the terms that matter are Coriolis and Pressure forces Near the surface in the presence of sustained wind, we also need to worry about the wind force. Without Coriolis Equations of Motion If we know the wind force (normally called wind stress) we can calculate the Ekman transport !x Wind driven Ekman transport is a balance between Coriolis and !x wind forces fve = ! d! dx d! fug = !g dy "x fve = ! #h "y fue = #h fvg = g With Coriolis ve = ! "h f "h !y ue = f "h ! fue = y "h In words: Ekman transport is proportional to the strength of the wind. Ekman flow is at 90° to the right of the direction of the wind in the NH and 90° to the left of the direction of the wind in the southern hemisphere. NB the Ekman transport in these equations are the depth averaged current. In reality Ekman transport only occurs in the top few 10s of meters (the Ekman Layer) E.G Wind blowing to the north in the southern hemisphere Τy>0 and f<0, so ue <0 i.e Ekman transport is to the west (90° to the left of the direction of the wind) Ekman Layer - wind blowing on an ocean produces a force per unit area called a wind stress τ. - effects of a wind stress on the ocean surface are transmitted down through the water column by the action of • turbulent eddies that are themselves generated by the wind • breaking waves • boundary shear stresses Depth - depth to which the effects of wind are felt is called the Ekman layer thickness or Ekman depth (He), where Net flow of water is 90° to direction of wind He = 2K | f | 10 12/09/11 Ekman Layer – cont‘d - depth to which the effects of wind are felt is called the Ekman layer thickness or Ekman depth (He), where He = 2K | f | - Coriolis force and wind balance depth-averaged Ekman velocities (ue and ve) τx - But u and v in these equations - fve = ρh are depth averaged velocitties and we know that flow is actually τy onlu in the surface Ekman layer fue = ρh depth (He) - where K is the eddy diffusivity and - K ≃ WL where W and L denote a characteristic eddy velocity and size So need to scale up to get the Ekman later velocities He Ekman layer velocities (Ue and Ve): Typically K ≃ 2 × 10−2 m2 s−1, so that with |f| = 10−4 s−1, He ≃ 20 m. However in regions of high wind-driven turbulence, K can be up to 0.5 m2 s−1, so that He can reach ≃ 100 m. h Ue = τy h ue = He ρH e f Ve = τx h ve = − He ρH e f Exercise: Find the Ekman layer depth He and the Ekman layer velocities Ue and Ve when a wind of strength 0.5 Pascals (0.5 N/m2) blows towards the north in the mid-latitudes of the NH. Take: vertical diffusivity K = 0.1m2/s and f = 10-4 s-1 and h = 1000m He = 2K | f | Ue = τy h ue = He ρH e f Ve = τx h ve = − He ρH e f Schematic of movement in column of water in the Ekman layer. Which hemisphere is this example from? 11 12/09/11 Upwelling & Downwelling E.g. Northern Hemisphere Schematic diagrams of winddriven upwelling in SH. http://oceanmotion.org/html/background/upwelling-and-downwelling.htm TEMP Winds SST in California Current under the influence of a northerly alongshore wind. NITRATE Temperature and nitrate distributions off Pt. Sur, California, from satellite and shipboard operations. From Traganza et al. (1983). Mann & Lazier (1996) 12 12/09/11 Full effect of alongshore wind … SH Wind Upwe lling Geostrophic current Ekman current 1. Wind drives offshore Ekman Current in first few 10’s of meters. 2. In boundary layer, offshore flow is compensated by upwelling 3. Because there is a surface slope, there must also be a pressure force (towards the coast) 4. This drive a geostrophic current that stretches through the full depth of the water column 5. Except at very bottom (where friction is important) and there is an onshore current Storm Surge Storm Surge Idealised model of a storm surge. Which hemisphere? Storm Surge A storm surge is an offshore rise of water associated with a low pressure weather system, typically tropical cyclones and strong extratropical cyclones. When rotation effects are not important – For example, in semienclosed bays 5) The effect of waves, while directly powered by the wind, is distinct from a storm's wind-powered currents. Powerful wind whips up large, strong waves in the direction of its movement 6) The rainfall effect is experienced predominantly in estuaries. Hurricanes may dump as much as 300 mm of rainfall in 24 hours over large areas, and higher rainfall densities in localized areas 13 12/09/11 Exercise: Exercise: Q 4) Q 5) A low-pressure system sits off the NSW coast as shown below. The southerly winds exert a stress τy = 1 N/m2 over a period of 5 days. Assuming an Ekman layer depth He = 100m over the shelf region, calculate the onshore Ekman layer velocity Ue. Calculate how far and in which direction the front at A will move during the 5 day period. Comment on the likely sealevel change and resulting geostrophic adjustment. The wind stress τ and wind speed U are related by τ = CD ρa U2 where ρa = 1.23 kg/m3 (air density) and CD = 10-3 (0.61 + 0.063U) is a drag coefficient for U between 6m/s and 22m/s. Given U = 8m/s calculate τ. The units of τ are kg/(ms2) = 1 N/m2 = 1 Pa. A northerly wind speed of U = 10m/s blows off the west coast of Africa during 9-13 March. Draw an idealised sketch of the resulting Ekman transport, sealevel change, and geostrophic adjustment to this wind field. Discuss this diagram in relation to the observations of upwelling shown below. Q 6a) u<0 Density Eastward velocity (u) 14 12/09/11 Q 7) Discuss the density sections drawn below. The sections correspond to waters off the NSW coast. Why might the density field slope upward in the initial conditions? What can you say about summertime swimming conditions in Sydney? 15