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Animal Services - Wildlife Wild animals are creatures of nature to be respected and enjoyed. We are fortunate to live in an area with such an abundance and variety of wildlife. Many of the recommendations mentioned here involve exclusion of wildlife. We believe, however, that understanding the habits of wildlife animals and using a few preventive measures will allow you to coexist more closely and compatibly with most wildlife creatures and truly begin to appreciate their value. • • • • • • • • • • Learning to live with wildlife Keeping them out: Wildlife proofing your home Deer Raccoons, opossums, and skunks Coyotes, beavers and squirrels Bats Woodpeckers Pigeons, starlings, and house sparrows Other birds Reptiles and amphibians Learning to live with wildlife The Pacific Northwest is graced with an abundance and variety of native mammals, birds, fish, reptiles and amphibians, black-tail deer, raccoons, beavers and coyotes, hawks, eagles, ducks and geese, and many other wild animals grace our woodlands and wetlands. We have witnessed and, for the most part, enjoyed the presence of a wide variety of wild animals in our woodlands, in our rural and urban settings, and even in our own backyards. Less than two hundred years ago the Northwest was the domain of wild creatures. With the exception of scattered bands of Native American communities, few people lived in this region. In the early 1800's, wagon trains began to roll into the Northwest bringing with them the beginnings of an enormous influx of people. Most of the newcomers valued wild animals as sources of food, clothing, shelter and transportation. However, they unfortunately believed there was an endless supply of wildlife. Over the years, they destroyed massive acreage of wildlife habitat in order to build railroads, houses, farms and businesses. This loss of habitat has been a major factor in the disappearance of Northwest wildlife. Only recently have we become more sensitive to the needs of wild animals. New laws protecting both domestic and wild animals are being passed every year. The destruction of wilderness, however, due both directly and indirectly to land development, continues to result in the decline of habitats available to support current wildlife populations. An increasing number of animals are forced to either compete for inadequate habitats or to adapt to living in closer proximity to humans. As a result, both unique challenges and opportunities continue to arise for the wildlife and people who live in urban areas. While most urbanites enjoy observing wild animals in their backyards, some conflicts are bound to arise. In dealing with wild animals, even some of our best intentions can be misdirected and create more problems for the animals and us than originally existed. For example, intentionally feeding wildlife can cause artificially dense populations. This can lead to starvation among the animals and cause more unwanted encounters with them as they compete for inadequate and inappropriate food supplies. Attempting to "rescue" baby animals that appear to be lost when, in fact, an unseen mother is waiting nearby may result in the abandonment originally feared. And, confining wild animals as pets can result in tragic consequences for both the animals and humans. Some people think that trapping and relocating wild animals to their "proper" home is a good solution to wildlife problems. However, most people find limited success with this method because the animal is already home. Unless something is done to change the conditions that attracted and sustained the animal, relocating it will provide relief only until another animal takes its place. Consequently, the original problem will not be resolved and new problems will most likely develop. New problems may include the death of the frightened animal due to the stress of being relocated and the spread of disease from relocated animals into healthy populations. With more tolerance and a better understanding of the needs and behaviors of wild animals, we can all enjoy the wildlife that lives among us. Understanding their needs will give us the insight we need to design methods to resolve conflicts and the patience to allow some so-called "problems" to resolve themselves. Part of learning to live with wildlife is acknowledging that wild animals are a natural part of urban environments and the problems associated with them are, for the most part, preventable. The purpose of this document is to present some humane and effective solutions to common conflicts that result when humans and wildlife coexist in urban settings. Using a combination of tactics suggested in this document, either as an individual or as part of a neighborhood effort, is the key to success in preventing most problems with wildlife. As you take steps to resolve problems, please remember that wildlife creatures are very unpredictable and territorial. Their responses to the methods you use will be different depending on their previous experiences, the season of the year and how frightened they are. Also keep in mind that nearly all wild animals are protected by law and that the penalties can be severe for mistreating, abusing, killing or illegally possessing wild animals. Therefore, we encourage you to check with authorities regarding wildlife issues and to use tolerance, patience and understanding during your encounters with wild animals. This document provides effective legal methods you can use to help you deal successfully with problems people commonly have when living in proximity to wild animals. If your particular concern is not addressed by this document, call one of the resource agencies listed at the end of this document. Keeping them out: Wildlife proofing your home All animals have certain biological and behavioral needs that must be met in order for them to survive. They are attracted to and stay in a given area because it meets their needs for food, water, cover and territory. Your home, for example, might be perceived by a wild animal to be the perfect habitat. Food left outside for pets and gardens are both attractive food sources; and porches and eaves provide adequate cover and protection from the elements. With a little understanding of wild animals, their needs and why they do what they do; you will be able to "wildlife-proof' your home to eliminate or reduce existing problems, and to keep new conflicts from arising. Some problems will be resolved quickly with little effort on your part. In most cases, however, you will need to use a combination of wildlife proofing measures and exercise patience to permanently eliminate intrusion problems. Listed below are wildlife proofing methods you can use to limit or eliminate wildlife problems. Note that each method is numbered. The following sections, which address how to resolve problems with specific types of animals, refer back to this section and indicate the numbers of the appropriate wildlife proofing methods to use with each particular specie. If you continue to have problems after using the methods recommended, refer to the agency reference list in the back of this document for further assistance. 1. Do not feed wild mammals! Feeding wild animals can cause animals to become dependent on you, supports artificially dense populations, and can lead to malnutrition and disease if the diet is not appropriate or is suddenly eliminated. Leaving food out to attract desirable animals can also, unfortunately, attract animals many people find undesirable. For example, bird feeders sometimes attract rats and mice, which, in turn, attract snakes. 2. Feed your pets in the house. Never put pet food outside. Domestic animals will lose when they compete with wildlife for their only source of food. 3. Always keep your garage doors closed. To animals, an open door is an open invitation. Garages have lots of hidden holes for nesting. They also contain some poisonous, yet attractive, chemicals such as antifreeze. 4. Equip all of your windows with properly maintained screens. Screens keep small wild animals out and help keep pets safely inside. 5. Keep pet doors locked at night and when not in use during the day. If possible, install a pet door that allows only the wearer of a magnetic "key" to pass through it. Pet doors equipped with magnetic trigger systems are the most effective in locking out unwanted visitors. 6. Block all openings to your house that are larger than a dime. As surprising as it may seem, mice can enter a hole any larger. Look for gaps and holes under your house, porches, decks and eaves. Pay close attention to areas around dryer vents and other ventilation openings, including chimneys and roof vents. Check walls and foundations for cracks, and seal them with appropriate sealing materials. Cover larger holes with heavy gauge wire or sheet metal and securely fasten all edges. Note: ALWAYS BLOCK OPENINGS TO YOUR HOUSE IN THE FALL TO AVOID TRAPPING ANY SPRING OR SUMMER BABIES. 7. If an animal is "denning" in your attic or under your house, place a one-way door over the entry. Installed correctly, this device will allow animals to leave but not reenter. To be effective, identify and eliminated all access to the "denning" area. Designs for one-way doors are available from the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife (ODFW). DO NOT USE ONE-WAY DOORS DURING THE BREEDING SEASON OR IF Note: THERE IS A POSSIBILITY OF A NEST WITH YOUNG. Starvation is a cruel death and a decomposing body will emit foul odors throughout your house. 8. Cover your children's sandbox when not in use to prevent it from being used as a litter box by wild mammals. 9. Enclose compost bins, and lock or securely tighten trash can lids to eliminate food sources for wildlife. 10. Remove vegetation and any rock or debris piles that are close to the house to eliminate cover and nesting sites for many species, including snakes. 11. Pin down newly laid sod until it has a chance to take firm root. Raccoons, opossums and skunks may roll up newly planted sod in search of insects and grubs. 12. Wrap sheet metal or heavy gauge vinyl around the bottom three feet of your trees to deter raccoons, opossums and beavers. Trim back the branches of trees growing near to your house to limit roof or window access. This will prevent animals from "denning" in your eaves and vents. 13. Install solid fencing to protect fishponds and gardens from fish-eating predators. For maximum protection, bury fencing a foot or more down into the ground. Suspend netting under the surface of fishponds to help deter predators. Install vertical, rather than sloping, sides in fishponds to make access to the pond more difficult or impossible for predators. 14. Use repellents, products especially made to be offensive to an animal's sense of smell or taste, for temporary relief from intruders. Dog, cat and deer repellents are available commercially at feed stores or at home and garden centers. Homemade repellents can also be effective and can be as simple, and inexpensive, as putting human hair or scented soap in nylon stockings. Spray, hang or place repellents where unwanted animals travel. Be aware that repellents are effective only until the animal becomes accustomed to the smell. For the best results, use repellents in combination with other wildlife proofing methods. 15. Use visual and auditory stimuli to scare animals and birds away. Shining bright lights, playing radios loudly, banging on pots and pans, and/or other visual and auditory stimuli will discourage nesting or temporarily evict unwanted tenants. Tie strips of foil on a string or use wind chimes to deter wild animals. Move visual and auditory stimuli frequently for the best results. Combine them with other wildlife proofing methods for more permanent results. 16. You can prevent wild animals from selecting your home as their habitat by increasing the amount of human activity that takes place in your yard. Spending time in your yard each day is one of the most effective ways of keeping wild animals away. Deer Most people enjoy watching the Northwest's native black-tailed deer stroll gracefully through our woodlands. This majestic and elegant creature is found in both rural and urban areas of the Northwest. Black-tail deer, most active between dusk and dawn, prefer to linger at forest edges and in other areas where sapling browse and brush provide adequate food and cover. Your yard may fit this bill. If you use patience and persistence, you can discourage deer from feeding on your landscaping. Enclose young trees in cages until they have outgrown the reach of deer. Plant shrubs and trees that are not palatable to deer in areas where the deer will travel first as a screen for the shrubs and trees the deer will eat. Check with your local nursery for help in determining which trees deer will and will not eat. Use scarecrows, noisemakers or one of several deer repellents available commercially as temporary deterrents. Combining the use of repellents with the wildlife proofing methods 1, 2, 9, 15 and 16 will provide more effective and permanent results. A sure way to keep deer from damaging your property is to exclude them with fencing. Fences should be at least 72 inches tall and secured snug to or sunken under the ground's surface to prevent deer from crawling underneath. The bottom 4 feet of the fence should be made of woven wire. Rows of barbed wire should be stretched across the top of the fence at six-inch intervals. NOTE: Baby deer are often left by the mother while she is foraging. Do not touch, or allow your children or pets near any fawn you find. A doe will return every 3-4 hours to feed her fawn, but not if people or pets are in the vicinity. If you are absolutely sure its mother has abandoned a fawn, report it to Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife or the Portland Audubon Wildlife Care Center. Raccoons, opossums, and skunks Omnivorous species or animals that eat small animals and insects along with vegetation are common in the Northwest. They are considered beneficial because they help control rodent and insect populations. Some of the more familiar species are raccoons, skunks and opossums. Even though these animals are abundant in urban areas; they are typical shy and secretive, and usually go unnoticed until they get into places they are not wanted. These characteristics will make it easy for you to avoid conflicts with them by using wildlife proofing methods. You can easily recognize a raccoon by its "bandit" mask; bushy ringed tail and grizzled salt-and-pepper coloration. Most raccoons weigh 25 pounds or less, but some males can weigh over 35 pounds. Raccoons are most active at night and are typically shy--a characteristic that can be quickly replaced by boldness if they are fed regularly. They are cute in appearance, but can be dangerous, especially when cornered. Raccoons prefer mature woodlands near water and will typically roost in the hollow of a tree; or they may choose to make your attic, shed or basement their home. They eat a variety of fruits, vegetables, insects, small animals and any other tidbits they happen upon. They will catch fish in ponds, eat gardens and landscaping, and raid trashcans. Use wildlife proofing methods 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16 t o ensure that raccoons do not damage your yard. Opossums are considered "naturalized", as opposed to native animals, because they were not introduced into the Northwest until the 1930's. They are the only marsupial (mammal that carries their young in a pouch) found in North America. Opossums are whitish gray and about the size of a house cat. They prefer to live in fields and deciduous woodlands with plenty of water; but are also common in urban areas where water and food are readily available. Opossums commonly nest in tree cavities, brush piles and under houses. They prefer to eat insects and carrion; but will eat fruit, vegetables and eggs. Opossums are beneficial because they eat slugs along with refuse and small animals. Those living near people, however, will raid trashcans, eat pet food and make nests in unwanted areas. You can usually resolve these problems by using the same wildlife proofing methods as for raccoons. Skunks are members of the weasel family and are best known for their "fragrant" defense spray. Two kinds of skunks, both of them black and white, live in the Northwest--the striped skunk and the smaller spotted skunk or civet cat. Striped skunks sport two white stripes down their backs and tail. Spotted skunks have irregular white blotches on their backs and sides, and a white tipped tail. Striped skunks weigh 6-14 pounds; whereas, the diminutive spotted skunks weigh only l-2 pounds. Both can be found in brush, open woodlands or in semi-open areas near water. They usually nest in the hollows of fallen trees or old animal burrows, but may nest under your house. Skunks, beneficial because they primarily eat insects helping to control their populations; will also eat fruits, vegetables, small animals and eggs. Use the wildlife proofing methods mentioned above to discourage skunks from coming into your yard, and to keep them out from under your house or out of other areas you would consider them undesirable residents. Skunks move slowly and when approached can seem fearless. Their defense -their spray - justifies this apparent confidence. If they are excited by a pet or person, and spray, the odor is very powerful. Skunk spray is an irritant, especially in the eyes and the odor can linger for a long time. Washing clothing in tomato juice or commercially prepared "descenting" products can help alleviate the odor. You can also obtain Neutroleum Alpha, an effective descenting product, from the United State Department of Agriculture Animal Damage Control (ADC). Please note that raccoons, opossums and skunks will lose their cautious nature in urban areas; but, as wild animals, they remain unpredictable. Although they may be endearing, they do not make good pets and will always be wild at heart. For these reasons, and because it is against the law to keep wild animals as pets without a license, leave and enjoy them in their natural wild state. Coyotes, beavers and squirrels Other mammals common to our urban areas include coyotes, beavers and squirrels. These animals have adapted well to living in urban communities. The best approach to keeping these animals away from places you do not want them is to use exclusion measures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16. Coyotes are surprisingly common in many suburban areas. They are extreme opportunists and eat what they can easily catch during their nocturnal forays. Their diet normally consists of rodents or other small animals and carrion, but may include larger animals, fruits and insects. Small pets, primarily house cats, may fall prey to coyotes if they are allowed to wander away from the house. Keep your pets in a secure kennel or indoors at night to protect them from coyotes and other predators. In rural areas, free-roaming livestock and poultry should also be safeguarded from coyotes. To minimize predation, secure to or bury under the ground's surface a four foot woven wire fence. Guard dogs and other animals can also-be used to alleviate predation. Contact Animal Damage Control of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (ADC) for further information. Beavers are another nocturnal mammal whose work is seen more than the animal itself. Beavers are Oregon's state animal and have been referred to as "nature's engineer." Beavers, well known as master dam builders, create ponds that protect them from predators. Their dam building activities are also important to natural water flow and erosion control. The beavers' favorite food is the tender inside layer of bark from many types of trees. Chicken wire or a sheet metal wrap is an effective barrier should one of these diligent little woodcutters decide to gnaw on one of your trees or shrubs. For information on preventing or removing dams, contact the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife (ODFW). Squirrels are small mammals that nest in cavities. Enclosed areas, such as your attic, are appealing to them. Attic nesting by squirrels can be prevented by covering all openings with small gauge hardware cloth and cutting limbs of trees close to your house to limit access to your roof and windows. You can keep squirrels from climbing your trees and poles by fastening 18-inch sheet metal snugly around them. Squirrels can be kept from bird feeders by placing the feeders on metal poles. Place nest boxes for squirrels on trees that are clear of your house to detour them away from the trees that are close to your house. Bats Many people think of bats as birds, but they are, in fact, mammals. Bats native to the Northwest are insectivorous. Their consumption of thousands of insects such as mosquitoes, gnats and spruce budworm moths each night make them highly beneficial. Bats do not gnaw or chew, or do structural damage to houses, but often use attics with easy access. They are typically not a problem unless they are in large colonies and their droppings are allowed to build up. If problems occur, follow the wildlife proofing guidelines 3, 4, 6, 7, 15 and 16, but consider providing bat boxes instead. Bat populations as a whole are declining and need our help as their native habitat continues to be lost to development. Detailed information about bat box designs and how to evict bats from your attic can be obtained from the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife (ODFW). If you find a single bat out in the open, on the ground or clinging to the trunk of a tree, it is likely that it is sick. Do not handle it. Instead, contact the Portland Audubon Care Center or the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife (ODFW). NOTE: Do not exclude bats during the winter; they will die without insects to eat. Woodpeckers Normal behaviors for woodpeckers include drilling for insects or places to store food, drumming to declare territories or to attract mates, and excavating nest cavities. All of these natural activities are fine when the woodpecker chooses a tree on which to execute them. However, it can become annoying when your house is the focus of their attention. One way of distracting a woodpecker's attention away from your house is to leave snags (standing dead trees) for the woodpeckers to use for nesting. This way you will still be able to enjoy the presence of woodpeckers in your yard, but will decrease the likelihood that they will cause damage to your buildings. If you need to direct their attention away from your house, you can try making your home unattractive to them. This may take some doing, but persistence normally pays off. Use scare techniques such as shouting, hand clapping and squirting them with a hose to encourage woodpeckers to move on. Temporarily cover the holes drilled by woodpeckers with plastic, sheet metal or plywood until they have permanently left the area. Various types of scare devices; such as scare-eye balloons, wind socks or flashy strips of mylar or aluminum may also help, but must be moved often to be effective. If a woodpecker is intent on making your house its home, consider providing a nest box. This provides them with a better alternative than your house and they will defend the area from further intruders. Contact the Portland Audubon Society Bookstore or Animal Damage Control for the design of these nest boxes. Pigeons, starlings, and house sparrows Pigeons, starlings and house sparrows, all introduced from Europe, are common urban residents and are responsible for the majority of nuisance problems in urban areas. Most people are familiar with them, but easily confuse them with several native species. Again, it is extremely important to positively identify the species because the methods of control vary among species. Several resources you can consult to help you identify bird species are listed at the end of this document. The pigeon, or rock dove, exhibits several colorations and can easily be confused with the native band-tailed pigeon, a protected specie. Look for the definitive characteristics of the band-tailed pigeon that are its yellowish beak and feet before taking any steps to exclude pigeons. If you see a pigeon with these distinctive characteristics, leave it alone. To repel other types of pigeons use slanted windowsills, guy wires on your rooftop, and balloons and plastic owls. Starlings are black with gold flecks, and have short tails and long beaks. House sparrows are smaller brown birds and have larger beaks than those of native sparrows. Pigeons, starlings and house sparrows have lived in close association to humans for centuries. Many people consider their nests to be undesirable because of the mess and the fire hazard of the dried twigs and leaves of which they are made. House sparrows and starlings are cavity nesters; meaning they will nest in air vents, rain spouts crevices in walls in the insulation and in garages. Pigeons will nest about anywhere there is a flat or mildly sloping surface protected from the elements, such as beams under house eaves. Most people are familiar with the unpleasant visual effects pigeon droppings leave on houses, cars and landscaping. Many people do not know, however, that these droppings have an acidic content that can deface marble, paints and electrical components, and that these droppings can pose serious health hazards if allowed to accumulate for a prolonged period of time. The flocking behavior of pigeons, starlings and house sparrows can create significant problems. Winter roosts of starlings sometimes include thousands of birds, and the clamor and droppings at these roosts are sometimes unbearable. You can use wildlife proofing methods 14, 15 and 16 for effective results. There are also addition techniques you can try if they are not effective. Wire mesh hardware cloth (3/4") will keep all of these birds from unwanted areas but is not always practical. You can modify roosting ledges so they are at 45-degree angles or more making difficult for birds to use them. You can also cover ledges or roosting sites with sheet metal to make the surface slippery to discourage use. Porcupine wires on roosting sites will keep birds from landing. This is better suited to smaller areas as it is expensive and, if they become cluttered with debris, need to be replaced. Overhead wiring or guy wires, if placed close together (6"-12" apart), will often discourage birds from roosting. Painting an area white often discourages nesting by starlings. These birds also can create a problem by raiding fruit trees and berry bushes. Cover fruit trees and berry bushes with commercial netting available at nurseries. Eliminate food supplies such as fallen fruit and bird feeders if any type of bird becomes a problem. You may find it necessary to coordinate this effort with your neighbors. Use eye-balloons, owl decoys and other scare devices to provide some relief. Keep in mind that most visual and auditory stimuli are effective only for short-term control and must be moved frequently for greater effectiveness. Persistently remove new nests until the birds choose another location. Use a combination of these methods to obtain greater success. NOTE: It is only legal to remove the nests of pigeons (with the exception of band-tailed), starlings and house sparrows, so be absolutely sure to correctly identify the species. Other birds Many species of birds inhabit the Northwest. It is a popular pastime for Northwesterners to attract birds by feeding them. Providing seeds is a way of bringing feathered friends in close so we can admire and appreciate their natural beauty and behavior. All in all, few birds present problems for humans, but some will try to make our houses into a roost or a podium on which to announce territories. General solutions given thus far will work for most species of birds, but be sure to positively identify the bird species involved because control methods vary from one species to another. Acquire a bird field guidebook or contact the appropriate resource agency listed in the back of this document to help you correctly identify bird species. Crows, waterfowl and herons are some of the birds that are problematic to humans. The most frequent complaint about crows is their raucous calling early in the morning. This is normal behavior for them since they are a highly gregarious bird and depend on calls to communicate with each other. Use scare devices for crows that come into your yard. They are the most effective deterrents. If waterfowl are coming into your yard, fence the area to stop them from feeding. If this does not work, try clapping your hands and shouting loudly every time they appear. Place netting over you fish pond if herons are eating your fish. A heron will move on to other areas once it knows the fish are unavailable. Unfortunately, our homes can be hazardous for animals. For example, it is common for birds to fly into closed windows. One reason this happens is that birds sometimes have trouble seeing glass and attempt to fly through it. You can prevent this by closing your drapes, or applying bird decals or masking tape to your windows to make the glass more visible. Sometimes birds perceive their own reflection in a window to be that of a rival. To eliminate possible reflections, shield the window on the outside with plastic or strips of paper. Many times, just putting a bright light inside the window will do the trick. If a bird hurts itself by flying into your window, gently place it into a large paper bag. Close the bag and put it in a warm quiet place, away from your pets, to rest. Let the bag sit undisturbed for a few hours. If the bird begins to flutter, take the bag outside and open it. If the bird does not fly away, leave it in the bag for a few more hours. If it still is unable to fly, contact the Portland Audubon Wildlife Care Center. Reptiles and amphibians Unfortunately, snakes and other reptiles frighten many people. However, snakes are probably more frightened of us than we are of them! Many people have a great fear of being bitten by poisonous snakes. However, of the many species native to the Northwest, only the western rattlesnake is poisonous and it is extremely rare for its bite to be fatal to humans. The western rattlesnake's habitat is restricted to the east side of the Cascades and southern Oregon. Other species commonly seen in the Northwest are garter and gopher snakes, and rubber boas. They are harmless to both people and property. Native snakes feed primarily on rodents, slugs, frogs and other snakes. The gopher snake can get fairly big, and is often mistaken for a rattlesnake both because of its coloration and its tendency to mimic a rattler by coiling up and vibrating its tail. Use wildlife proofing methods 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10 and 16 to keep reptiles and amphibians away. Block even the smallest holes; and eliminate tall grass, rocks and brush piles to reduce cover and decrease rodent populations that attract reptiles. If you find a snake in your home, open the nearest door to give it an opportunity to leave. Escort it out, if necessary, with the aid of a long stick or broom. If this does not work, or the snake is in an inaccessible area, place a heating pad down with a box covering it. The snake will be attracted to the warmth. When the snake enters the box, carefully put a lid on the box and release the snake in an appropriate area at least a mile away. Do not release a snake in cold weather. Contact the Washington Park Zoo to find out where you can take the snake to be housed until warmer weather. If you believe the snake is poisonous, or is an escaped pet, give it a chance to exit and call the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife. NOTE: The numbers of native reptiles and amphibians have been rapidly declining and are in danger of becoming protected or endangers species. To help stop their decline, please do not disturb them if you see them in the wild. Acknowledgment: This text was supported and produced by the Portland Urban Wildlife Committee. The committee consisted of representatives from the Animal Control Departments in Clackamas, Multnomah and Washington Counties, the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife, the Oregon Humane Society, the U.S. Department of Agriculture - Animal Damage Control, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and the Metro Washington Park zoo. Written by: Sharon Harmon (Oregon Humane Society) and Thomas Hall (USDA Animal Damage Control) Edited by: Karen Inderlee (Oregon Humane Society) and Robert Stadel, (Washington County).