Download Animal Services - Wildlife

Animal Services - Wildlife
Wild animals are creatures of nature to be respected and enjoyed. We are fortunate to live
in an area with such an abundance and variety of wildlife. Many of the recommendations
mentioned here involve exclusion of wildlife. We believe, however, that understanding
the habits of wildlife animals and using a few preventive measures will allow you to
coexist more closely and compatibly with most wildlife creatures and truly begin to
appreciate their value.
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Learning to live with wildlife
Keeping them out: Wildlife proofing your home
Deer
Raccoons, opossums, and skunks
Coyotes, beavers and squirrels
Bats
Woodpeckers
Pigeons, starlings, and house sparrows
Other birds
Reptiles and amphibians
Learning to live with wildlife
The Pacific Northwest is graced with an abundance and variety of native mammals,
birds, fish, reptiles and amphibians, black-tail deer, raccoons, beavers and coyotes,
hawks, eagles, ducks and geese, and many other wild animals grace our woodlands and
wetlands. We have witnessed and, for the most part, enjoyed the presence of a wide
variety of wild animals in our woodlands, in our rural and urban settings, and even in our
own backyards.
Less than two hundred years ago the Northwest was the domain of wild creatures. With
the exception of scattered bands of Native American communities, few people lived in
this region. In the early 1800's, wagon trains began to roll into the Northwest bringing
with them the beginnings of an enormous influx of people. Most of the newcomers
valued wild animals as sources of food, clothing, shelter and transportation. However,
they unfortunately believed there was an endless supply of wildlife. Over the years, they
destroyed massive acreage of wildlife habitat in order to build railroads, houses, farms
and businesses. This loss of habitat has been a major factor in the disappearance of
Northwest wildlife.
Only recently have we become more sensitive to the needs of wild animals. New laws
protecting both domestic and wild animals are being passed every year. The destruction
of wilderness, however, due both directly and indirectly to land development, continues
to result in the decline of habitats available to support current wildlife populations. An
increasing number of animals are forced to either compete for inadequate habitats or to
adapt to living in closer proximity to humans. As a result, both unique challenges and
opportunities continue to arise for the wildlife and people who live in urban areas.
While most urbanites enjoy observing wild animals in their backyards, some conflicts are
bound to arise. In dealing with wild animals, even some of our best intentions can be
misdirected and create more problems for the animals and us than originally existed. For
example, intentionally feeding wildlife can cause artificially dense populations. This can
lead to starvation among the animals and cause more unwanted encounters with them as
they compete for inadequate and inappropriate food supplies. Attempting to "rescue"
baby animals that appear to be lost when, in fact, an unseen mother is waiting nearby may
result in the abandonment originally feared. And, confining wild animals as pets can
result in tragic consequences for both the animals and humans.
Some people think that trapping and relocating wild animals to their "proper" home is a
good solution to wildlife problems. However, most people find limited success with this
method because the animal is already home. Unless something is done to change the
conditions that attracted and sustained the animal, relocating it will provide relief only
until another animal takes its place. Consequently, the original problem will not be
resolved and new problems will most likely develop. New problems may include the
death of the frightened animal due to the stress of being relocated and the spread of
disease from relocated animals into healthy populations.
With more tolerance and a better understanding of the needs and behaviors of wild
animals, we can all enjoy the wildlife that lives among us. Understanding their needs will
give us the insight we need to design methods to resolve conflicts and the patience to
allow some so-called "problems" to resolve themselves. Part of learning to live with
wildlife is acknowledging that wild animals are a natural part of urban environments and
the problems associated with them are, for the most part, preventable. The purpose of this
document is to present some humane and effective solutions to common conflicts that
result when humans and wildlife coexist in urban settings. Using a combination of tactics
suggested in this document, either as an individual or as part of a neighborhood effort, is
the key to success in preventing most problems with wildlife.
As you take steps to resolve problems, please remember that wildlife creatures are very
unpredictable and territorial. Their responses to the methods you use will be different
depending on their previous experiences, the season of the year and how frightened they
are. Also keep in mind that nearly all wild animals are protected by law and that the
penalties can be severe for mistreating, abusing, killing or illegally possessing wild
animals. Therefore, we encourage you to check with authorities regarding wildlife issues
and to use tolerance, patience and understanding during your encounters with wild
animals.
This document provides effective legal methods you can use to help you deal
successfully with problems people commonly have when living in proximity to wild
animals. If your particular concern is not addressed by this document, call one of the
resource agencies listed at the end of this document.
Keeping them out: Wildlife proofing your home
All animals have certain biological and behavioral needs that must be met in order for
them to survive. They are attracted to and stay in a given area because it meets their
needs for food, water, cover and territory. Your home, for example, might be perceived
by a wild animal to be the perfect habitat. Food left outside for pets and gardens are both
attractive food sources; and porches and eaves provide adequate cover and protection
from the elements. With a little understanding of wild animals, their needs and why they
do what they do; you will be able to "wildlife-proof' your home to eliminate or reduce
existing problems, and to keep new conflicts from arising. Some problems will be
resolved quickly with little effort on your part. In most cases, however, you will need to
use a combination of wildlife proofing measures and exercise patience to permanently
eliminate intrusion problems.
Listed below are wildlife proofing methods you can use to limit or eliminate wildlife
problems. Note that each method is numbered. The following sections, which address
how to resolve problems with specific types of animals, refer back to this section and
indicate the numbers of the appropriate wildlife proofing methods to use with each
particular specie. If you continue to have problems after using the methods
recommended, refer to the agency reference list in the back of this document for further
assistance.
1. Do not feed wild mammals! Feeding wild animals can cause animals to become
dependent on you, supports artificially dense populations, and can lead to malnutrition
and disease if the diet is not appropriate or is suddenly eliminated. Leaving food out to
attract desirable animals can also, unfortunately, attract animals many people find
undesirable. For example, bird feeders sometimes attract rats and mice, which, in turn,
attract snakes.
2. Feed your pets in the house. Never put pet food outside. Domestic animals will lose
when they compete with wildlife for their only source of food.
3. Always keep your garage doors closed. To animals, an open door is an open
invitation. Garages have lots of hidden holes for nesting. They also contain some
poisonous, yet attractive, chemicals such as antifreeze.
4. Equip all of your windows with properly maintained screens. Screens keep small
wild animals out and help keep pets safely inside.
5. Keep pet doors locked at night and when not in use during the day. If possible,
install a pet door that allows only the wearer of a magnetic "key" to pass through it. Pet
doors equipped with magnetic trigger systems are the most effective in locking out
unwanted visitors.
6. Block all openings to your house that are larger than a dime. As surprising as it
may seem, mice can enter a hole any larger. Look for gaps and holes under your house,
porches, decks and eaves. Pay close attention to areas around dryer vents and other
ventilation openings, including chimneys and roof vents. Check walls and foundations for
cracks, and seal them with appropriate sealing materials. Cover larger holes with heavy
gauge wire or sheet metal and securely fasten all edges. Note: ALWAYS BLOCK
OPENINGS TO YOUR HOUSE IN THE FALL TO AVOID TRAPPING ANY SPRING
OR SUMMER BABIES.
7. If an animal is "denning" in your attic or under your house, place a one-way door
over the entry. Installed correctly, this device will allow animals to leave but not reenter. To be effective, identify and eliminated all access to the "denning" area. Designs
for one-way doors are available from the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife
(ODFW). DO NOT USE ONE-WAY DOORS DURING THE BREEDING SEASON
OR IF Note: THERE IS A POSSIBILITY OF A NEST WITH YOUNG. Starvation is a
cruel death and a decomposing body will emit foul odors throughout your house.
8. Cover your children's sandbox when not in use to prevent it from being used as a
litter box by wild mammals.
9. Enclose compost bins, and lock or securely tighten trash can lids to eliminate food
sources for wildlife.
10. Remove vegetation and any rock or debris piles that are close to the house to
eliminate cover and nesting sites for many species, including snakes.
11. Pin down newly laid sod until it has a chance to take firm root. Raccoons,
opossums and skunks may roll up newly planted sod in search of insects and grubs.
12. Wrap sheet metal or heavy gauge vinyl around the bottom three feet of your
trees to deter raccoons, opossums and beavers. Trim back the branches of trees
growing near to your house to limit roof or window access. This will prevent animals
from "denning" in your eaves and vents.
13. Install solid fencing to protect fishponds and gardens from fish-eating predators.
For maximum protection, bury fencing a foot or more down into the ground. Suspend
netting under the surface of fishponds to help deter predators. Install vertical, rather than
sloping, sides in fishponds to make access to the pond more difficult or impossible for
predators.
14. Use repellents, products especially made to be offensive to an animal's sense of
smell or taste, for temporary relief from intruders. Dog, cat and deer repellents are
available commercially at feed stores or at home and garden centers. Homemade
repellents can also be effective and can be as simple, and inexpensive, as putting human
hair or scented soap in nylon stockings. Spray, hang or place repellents where unwanted
animals travel. Be aware that repellents are effective only until the animal becomes
accustomed to the smell. For the best results, use repellents in combination with other
wildlife proofing methods.
15. Use visual and auditory stimuli to scare animals and birds away. Shining bright
lights, playing radios loudly, banging on pots and pans, and/or other visual and auditory
stimuli will discourage nesting or temporarily evict unwanted tenants. Tie strips of foil on
a string or use wind chimes to deter wild animals. Move visual and auditory stimuli
frequently for the best results. Combine them with other wildlife proofing methods for
more permanent results.
16. You can prevent wild animals from selecting your home as their habitat by
increasing the amount of human activity that takes place in your yard. Spending
time in your yard each day is one of the most effective ways of keeping wild animals
away.
Deer
Most people enjoy watching the Northwest's native black-tailed deer stroll gracefully
through our woodlands. This majestic and elegant creature is found in both rural and
urban areas of the Northwest. Black-tail deer, most active between dusk and dawn, prefer
to linger at forest edges and in other areas where sapling browse and brush provide
adequate food and cover. Your yard may fit this bill. If you use patience and persistence,
you can discourage deer from feeding on your landscaping. Enclose young trees in cages
until they have outgrown the reach of deer. Plant shrubs and trees that are not palatable to
deer in areas where the deer will travel first as a screen for the shrubs and trees the deer
will eat. Check with your local nursery for help in determining which trees deer will and
will not eat. Use scarecrows, noisemakers or one of several deer repellents available
commercially as temporary deterrents. Combining the use of repellents with the wildlife
proofing methods 1, 2, 9, 15 and 16 will provide more effective and permanent results. A
sure way to keep deer from damaging your property is to exclude them with fencing.
Fences should be at least 72 inches tall and secured snug to or sunken under the ground's
surface to prevent deer from crawling underneath. The bottom 4 feet of the fence should
be made of woven wire. Rows of barbed wire should be stretched across the top of the
fence at six-inch intervals.
NOTE: Baby deer are often left by the mother while she is foraging. Do not touch, or
allow your children or pets near any fawn you find. A doe will return every 3-4 hours to
feed her fawn, but not if people or pets are in the vicinity. If you are absolutely sure its
mother has abandoned a fawn, report it to Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife or the
Portland Audubon Wildlife Care Center.
Raccoons, opossums, and skunks
Omnivorous species or animals that eat small animals and insects along with vegetation
are common in the Northwest. They are considered beneficial because they help control
rodent and insect populations. Some of the more familiar species are raccoons, skunks
and opossums. Even though these animals are abundant in urban areas; they are typical
shy and secretive, and usually go unnoticed until they get into places they are not wanted.
These characteristics will make it easy for you to avoid conflicts with them by using
wildlife proofing methods.
You can easily recognize a raccoon by its "bandit" mask; bushy ringed tail and grizzled
salt-and-pepper coloration. Most raccoons weigh 25 pounds or less, but some males can
weigh over 35 pounds. Raccoons are most active at night and are typically shy--a
characteristic that can be quickly replaced by boldness if they are fed regularly. They are
cute in appearance, but can be dangerous, especially when cornered. Raccoons prefer
mature woodlands near water and will typically roost in the hollow of a tree; or they may
choose to make your attic, shed or basement their home. They eat a variety of fruits,
vegetables, insects, small animals and any other tidbits they happen upon. They will catch
fish in ponds, eat gardens and landscaping, and raid trashcans. Use wildlife proofing
methods 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16 t o ensure that raccoons do not damage
your yard.
Opossums are considered "naturalized", as opposed to native animals, because they were
not introduced into the Northwest until the 1930's. They are the only marsupial (mammal
that carries their young in a pouch) found in North America. Opossums are whitish gray
and about the size of a house cat. They prefer to live in fields and deciduous woodlands
with plenty of water; but are also common in urban areas where water and food are
readily available. Opossums commonly nest in tree cavities, brush piles and under
houses. They prefer to eat insects and carrion; but will eat fruit, vegetables and eggs.
Opossums are beneficial because they eat slugs along with refuse and small animals.
Those living near people, however, will raid trashcans, eat pet food and make nests in
unwanted areas. You can usually resolve these problems by using the same wildlife
proofing methods as for raccoons.
Skunks are members of the weasel family and are best known for their "fragrant" defense
spray. Two kinds of skunks, both of them black and white, live in the Northwest--the
striped skunk and the smaller spotted skunk or civet cat. Striped skunks sport two white
stripes down their backs and tail. Spotted skunks have irregular white blotches on their
backs and sides, and a white tipped tail. Striped skunks weigh 6-14 pounds; whereas, the
diminutive spotted skunks weigh only l-2 pounds. Both can be found in brush, open
woodlands or in semi-open areas near water. They usually nest in the hollows of fallen
trees or old animal burrows, but may nest under your house. Skunks, beneficial because
they primarily eat insects helping to control their populations; will also eat fruits,
vegetables, small animals and eggs. Use the wildlife proofing methods mentioned above
to discourage skunks from coming into your yard, and to keep them out from under your
house or out of other areas you would consider them undesirable residents. Skunks move
slowly and when approached can seem fearless. Their defense -their spray - justifies this
apparent confidence. If they are excited by a pet or person, and spray, the odor is very
powerful. Skunk spray is an irritant, especially in the eyes and the odor can linger for a
long time. Washing clothing in tomato juice or commercially prepared "descenting"
products can help alleviate the odor. You can also obtain Neutroleum Alpha, an effective
descenting product, from the United State Department of Agriculture Animal Damage
Control (ADC).
Please note that raccoons, opossums and skunks will lose their cautious nature in urban
areas; but, as wild animals, they remain unpredictable. Although they may be endearing,
they do not make good pets and will always be wild at heart. For these reasons, and
because it is against the law to keep wild animals as pets without a license, leave and
enjoy them in their natural wild state.
Coyotes, beavers and squirrels
Other mammals common to our urban areas include coyotes, beavers and squirrels. These
animals have adapted well to living in urban communities. The best approach to keeping
these animals away from places you do not want them is to use exclusion measures 1, 2,
3, 4, 5, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16.
Coyotes are surprisingly common in many suburban areas. They are extreme opportunists
and eat what they can easily catch during their nocturnal forays. Their diet normally
consists of rodents or other small animals and carrion, but may include larger animals,
fruits and insects. Small pets, primarily house cats, may fall prey to coyotes if they are
allowed to wander away from the house. Keep your pets in a secure kennel or indoors at
night to protect them from coyotes and other predators. In rural areas, free-roaming
livestock and poultry should also be safeguarded from coyotes. To minimize predation,
secure to or bury under the ground's surface a four foot woven wire fence. Guard dogs
and other animals can also-be used to alleviate predation. Contact Animal Damage
Control of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (ADC) for further information.
Beavers are another nocturnal mammal whose work is seen more than the animal itself.
Beavers are Oregon's state animal and have been referred to as "nature's engineer."
Beavers, well known as master dam builders, create ponds that protect them from
predators. Their dam building activities are also important to natural water flow and
erosion control. The beavers' favorite food is the tender inside layer of bark from many
types of trees. Chicken wire or a sheet metal wrap is an effective barrier should one of
these diligent little woodcutters decide to gnaw on one of your trees or shrubs. For
information on preventing or removing dams, contact the Oregon Department of Fish and
Wildlife (ODFW).
Squirrels are small mammals that nest in cavities. Enclosed areas, such as your attic, are
appealing to them. Attic nesting by squirrels can be prevented by covering all openings
with small gauge hardware cloth and cutting limbs of trees close to your house to limit
access to your roof and windows. You can keep squirrels from climbing your trees and
poles by fastening 18-inch sheet metal snugly around them. Squirrels can be kept from
bird feeders by placing the feeders on metal poles. Place nest boxes for squirrels on trees
that are clear of your house to detour them away from the trees that are close to your
house.
Bats
Many people think of bats as birds, but they are, in fact, mammals. Bats native to the
Northwest are insectivorous. Their consumption of thousands of insects such as
mosquitoes, gnats and spruce budworm moths each night make them highly beneficial.
Bats do not gnaw or chew, or do structural damage to houses, but often use attics with
easy access. They are typically not a problem unless they are in large colonies and their
droppings are allowed to build up. If problems occur, follow the wildlife proofing
guidelines 3, 4, 6, 7, 15 and 16, but consider providing bat boxes instead. Bat populations
as a whole are declining and need our help as their native habitat continues to be lost to
development. Detailed information about bat box designs and how to evict bats from your
attic can be obtained from the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife (ODFW).
If you find a single bat out in the open, on the ground or clinging to the trunk of a tree, it
is likely that it is sick. Do not handle it. Instead, contact the Portland Audubon Care
Center or the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife (ODFW).
NOTE: Do not exclude bats during the winter; they will die without insects to eat.
Woodpeckers
Normal behaviors for woodpeckers include drilling for insects or places to store food,
drumming to declare territories or to attract mates, and excavating nest cavities. All of
these natural activities are fine when the woodpecker chooses a tree on which to execute
them. However, it can become annoying when your house is the focus of their attention.
One way of distracting a woodpecker's attention away from your house is to leave snags
(standing dead trees) for the woodpeckers to use for nesting. This way you will still be
able to enjoy the presence of woodpeckers in your yard, but will decrease the likelihood
that they will cause damage to your buildings.
If you need to direct their attention away from your house, you can try making your home
unattractive to them. This may take some doing, but persistence normally pays off. Use
scare techniques such as shouting, hand clapping and squirting them with a hose to
encourage woodpeckers to move on. Temporarily cover the holes drilled by woodpeckers
with plastic, sheet metal or plywood until they have permanently left the area. Various
types of scare devices; such as scare-eye balloons, wind socks or flashy strips of mylar or
aluminum may also help, but must be moved often to be effective. If a woodpecker is
intent on making your house its home, consider providing a nest box. This provides them
with a better alternative than your house and they will defend the area from further
intruders. Contact the Portland Audubon Society Bookstore or Animal Damage Control
for the design of these nest boxes.
Pigeons, starlings, and house sparrows
Pigeons, starlings and house sparrows, all introduced from Europe, are common urban
residents and are responsible for the majority of nuisance problems in urban areas. Most
people are familiar with them, but easily confuse them with several native species. Again,
it is extremely important to positively identify the species because the methods of control
vary among species. Several resources you can consult to help you identify bird species
are listed at the end of this document. The pigeon, or rock dove, exhibits several
colorations and can easily be confused with the native band-tailed pigeon, a protected
specie. Look for the definitive characteristics of the band-tailed pigeon that are its
yellowish beak and feet before taking any steps to exclude pigeons. If you see a pigeon
with these distinctive characteristics, leave it alone. To repel other types of pigeons use
slanted windowsills, guy wires on your rooftop, and balloons and plastic owls.
Starlings are black with gold flecks, and have short tails and long beaks. House sparrows
are smaller brown birds and have larger beaks than those of native sparrows. Pigeons,
starlings and house sparrows have lived in close association to humans for centuries.
Many people consider their nests to be undesirable because of the mess and the fire
hazard of the dried twigs and leaves of which they are made. House sparrows and
starlings are cavity nesters; meaning they will nest in air vents, rain spouts crevices in
walls in the insulation and in garages. Pigeons will nest about anywhere there is a flat or
mildly sloping surface protected from the elements, such as beams under house eaves.
Most people are familiar with the unpleasant visual effects pigeon droppings leave on
houses, cars and landscaping. Many people do not know, however, that these droppings
have an acidic content that can deface marble, paints and electrical components, and that
these droppings can pose serious health hazards if allowed to accumulate for a prolonged
period of time. The flocking behavior of pigeons, starlings and house sparrows can create
significant problems. Winter roosts of starlings sometimes include thousands of birds,
and the clamor and droppings at these roosts are sometimes unbearable.
You can use wildlife proofing methods 14, 15 and 16 for effective results. There are also
addition techniques you can try if they are not effective. Wire mesh hardware cloth (3/4")
will keep all of these birds from unwanted areas but is not always practical. You can
modify roosting ledges so they are at 45-degree angles or more making difficult for birds
to use them. You can also cover ledges or roosting sites with sheet metal to make the
surface slippery to discourage use. Porcupine wires on roosting sites will keep birds from
landing. This is better suited to smaller areas as it is expensive and, if they become
cluttered with debris, need to be replaced. Overhead wiring or guy wires, if placed close
together (6"-12" apart), will often discourage birds from roosting. Painting an area white
often discourages nesting by starlings.
These birds also can create a problem by raiding fruit trees and berry bushes. Cover fruit
trees and berry bushes with commercial netting available at nurseries. Eliminate food
supplies such as fallen fruit and bird feeders if any type of bird becomes a problem. You
may find it necessary to coordinate this effort with your neighbors. Use eye-balloons, owl
decoys and other scare devices to provide some relief. Keep in mind that most visual and
auditory stimuli are effective only for short-term control and must be moved frequently
for greater effectiveness. Persistently remove new nests until the birds choose another
location. Use a combination of these methods to obtain greater success.
NOTE: It is only legal to remove the nests of pigeons (with the exception of band-tailed),
starlings and house sparrows, so be absolutely sure to correctly identify the species.
Other birds
Many species of birds inhabit the Northwest. It is a popular pastime for Northwesterners
to attract birds by feeding them. Providing seeds is a way of bringing feathered friends in
close so we can admire and appreciate their natural beauty and behavior. All in all, few
birds present problems for humans, but some will try to make our houses into a roost or a
podium on which to announce territories. General solutions given thus far will work for
most species of birds, but be sure to positively identify the bird species involved because
control methods vary from one species to another. Acquire a bird field guidebook or
contact the appropriate resource agency listed in the back of this document to help you
correctly identify bird species.
Crows, waterfowl and herons are some of the birds that are problematic to humans. The
most frequent complaint about crows is their raucous calling early in the morning. This is
normal behavior for them since they are a highly gregarious bird and depend on calls to
communicate with each other. Use scare devices for crows that come into your yard.
They are the most effective deterrents.
If waterfowl are coming into your yard, fence the area to stop them from feeding. If this
does not work, try clapping your hands and shouting loudly every time they appear. Place
netting over you fish pond if herons are eating your fish. A heron will move on to other
areas once it knows the fish are unavailable.
Unfortunately, our homes can be hazardous for animals. For example, it is common for
birds to fly into closed windows. One reason this happens is that birds sometimes have
trouble seeing glass and attempt to fly through it. You can prevent this by closing your
drapes, or applying bird decals or masking tape to your windows to make the glass more
visible. Sometimes birds perceive their own reflection in a window to be that of a rival.
To eliminate possible reflections, shield the window on the outside with plastic or strips
of paper. Many times, just putting a bright light inside the window will do the trick.
If a bird hurts itself by flying into your window, gently place it into a large paper bag.
Close the bag and put it in a warm quiet place, away from your pets, to rest. Let the bag
sit undisturbed for a few hours. If the bird begins to flutter, take the bag outside and open
it. If the bird does not fly away, leave it in the bag for a few more hours. If it still is
unable to fly, contact the Portland Audubon Wildlife Care Center.
Reptiles and amphibians
Unfortunately, snakes and other reptiles frighten many people. However, snakes are
probably more frightened of us than we are of them! Many people have a great fear of
being bitten by poisonous snakes. However, of the many species native to the Northwest,
only the western rattlesnake is poisonous and it is extremely rare for its bite to be fatal to
humans. The western rattlesnake's habitat is restricted to the east side of the Cascades and
southern Oregon.
Other species commonly seen in the Northwest are garter and gopher snakes, and rubber
boas. They are harmless to both people and property. Native snakes feed primarily on
rodents, slugs, frogs and other snakes. The gopher snake can get fairly big, and is often
mistaken for a rattlesnake both because of its coloration and its tendency to mimic a
rattler by coiling up and vibrating its tail.
Use wildlife proofing methods 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10 and 16 to keep reptiles and
amphibians away. Block even the smallest holes; and eliminate tall grass, rocks and brush
piles to reduce cover and decrease rodent populations that attract reptiles. If you find a
snake in your home, open the nearest door to give it an opportunity to leave. Escort it out,
if necessary, with the aid of a long stick or broom. If this does not work, or the snake is in
an inaccessible area, place a heating pad down with a box covering it. The snake will be
attracted to the warmth. When the snake enters the box, carefully put a lid on the box and
release the snake in an appropriate area at least a mile away. Do not release a snake in
cold weather. Contact the Washington Park Zoo to find out where you can take the snake
to be housed until warmer weather. If you believe the snake is poisonous, or is an escaped
pet, give it a chance to exit and call the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife.
NOTE: The numbers of native reptiles and amphibians have been rapidly declining and
are in danger of becoming protected or endangers species. To help stop their decline,
please do not disturb them if you see them in the wild.
Acknowledgment:
This text was supported and produced by the Portland Urban Wildlife Committee. The
committee consisted of representatives from the Animal Control Departments in
Clackamas, Multnomah and Washington Counties, the Oregon Department of Fish and
Wildlife, the Oregon Humane Society, the U.S. Department of Agriculture - Animal
Damage Control, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and the Metro Washington Park
zoo. Written by: Sharon Harmon (Oregon Humane Society) and Thomas Hall (USDA Animal Damage Control) Edited by: Karen Inderlee (Oregon Humane Society) and
Robert Stadel, (Washington County).