Survey
* Your assessment is very important for improving the workof artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project
* Your assessment is very important for improving the workof artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project
Ancient Egyptian funerary practices wikipedia , lookup
Middle Kingdom of Egypt wikipedia , lookup
Index of Egypt-related articles wikipedia , lookup
Prehistoric Egypt wikipedia , lookup
Art of ancient Egypt wikipedia , lookup
Egypt (Roman province) wikipedia , lookup
Military of ancient Egypt wikipedia , lookup
Women in ancient Egypt wikipedia , lookup
Ancient Egyptian race controversy wikipedia , lookup
Running head: COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT Cleopatra: More Than Just a Pretty Face Julia Gutierrez, Madison Plourde, Caterina Powers, Abigail Renner Smithtown High School West AP World History Conference “Standards of Beauty: Perceptions of Perfection” May 18th, 2016 1 COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT 2 Abstract From the origin of henna tattoos to the intricate techniques of applying kohl eyeliner, Egypt’s history has been deeply adorned by the wide world of cosmetics and beauty. Ancient Egyptians were notorious for their advanced cosmetology abilities and elaborate makeup routines. In Ancient Egyptian times, cosmetics were a quintessential aspect of society. Both men and women indulged in makeup, perfume, and beauty rituals they believed enhanced their appearance. Although Egyptian makeup was mainly used for aesthetic purposes, it was utilized in social, medical, and religious aspects of life as well. Cosmetics often emulated religious symbolism and provided a myriad of medical benefits. Eye makeup was used to protect against eye disease, flies, moisturize the eyes, and protect against harsh sunlight, while facial creams were used to exfoliate and to protect the skin from sun, dust, and dryness. Cosmetics often echoed religious beliefs and the worship of the gods. The Ancient Egyptians regarded beauty as an extension of holiness, and used cosmetics to mirror one’s religious devotion. Also, an Egyptian’s appearance often reflected their position in the complex Ancient Egyptian social hierarchy. Although many people believe cosmetics in Ancient Egypt were only used for beautification purposes, cosmetics and beauty played rather important roles that fused many parts of their civilization together: culture, medicine, religion, and social status. COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT 3 Cleopatra: More Than Just a Pretty Face The beauty of the Egyptians was unparalleled by anything else in the ancient world. The earliest masterpiece in Egyptian art is said to be the ceremonial cosmetic palette of King Narmer. Just like Narmer’s palette, basic cosmetic palettes were one of the most typical belongings found in ancient tombs, which implicitly shows that cosmetics were an innate part of life for Egyptians. The application of face makeup coincides with the desire to improve one’s appearance, an element entwined in the primitive sexual nature of humans. At the foundation of taking care of one’s physical and mental wellbeing was cleanliness. Hygiene was vitally important to Egyptians. A state of purity was required to enter a temple or when priests conducted rituals. Both men and women wore freshly washed clothing and fought body odor with remedies made from natural chemicals. Along with their deep care for hygiene and appearance, the Ancient Egyptians must have truly believed that the eyes were the windows to the soul, because they took meticulous care in painting and decorating them to perfection (Manniche, 1999, p. 127). The tradition of outlining the eyes with pigment to create a feline shape was common, but the importance placed upon this practice transcends the modern Western concept of eye makeup, which is strictly based on aesthetic. Although it is widely believed that cosmetics in Ancient Egypt were only used for beautification purposes, cosmetics and beauty played rather important roles that fused many parts of their civilization together: culture, medicine, religion, and social status. Although Ancient Egypt’s civilization existed thousands of years ago, its people had elaborate cosmetic routines that mirror our routines today. Personal appearance was important to the Egyptians (Manniche, 1999, p. 127). Their chemists developed natural cosmetics from minerals, plants and even metals to satisfy their lavish style. Their advanced maquillage was a COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT 4 welcomed luxury that resulted from the proclivity that Ancient Egyptians had for cutting-edge science and technology. Egyptians often wore black kohl eyeliner. In North Africa and the Middle East, kohl was often made by grinding galena, or lead sulfide, while in West Africa they would use organic charcoal instead of lead. Plant oils and the residue from various nuts, seeds, and gum resins were often added to the powder. Lead sulfide was commonly found in the Eastern Desert, a section of the Sahara Desert between the Nile River and the Red Sea. Egyptians used green malachite for the eyes, a color that was predominantly associated with deep healing and nature. Blushes and other powders were was mixed with oils and soot and stored in hand painted pots to eventually be applied with the fingers (Hawass, 2000, p. 123). Red ochre, or rouge, was used to color the lips and the face. Hydrated iron oxide, a clay-like substance that was filtered and dried, was used in face makeup to achieve a glowing sheen (Alchin, n.d.). In addition to appearance, one’s scent was also important to the Ancient Egyptians. Pliny the Elder, a 1st century Roman writer, explained the unique value that Egyptians held for oils and perfumes. They would press flowers and fruits into oils to give off a strong, ambrosial scent. They were later stored in decorative pots and jars (Hawass, 2000, p. 123). Egyptians were notorious for their henna tattoos. It is often argued that henna originated in Egypt and then spread to the Middle East and Asia. The Egyptians dried henna leaves and crushed them into a fine powder. They mixed the powder into a paste with oils, which could then be applied to the skin to make extraordinarily detailed designs (Persad, 2015). The complex processes of creating makeup demonstrates the significance of cosmetics and how intellectually advanced Egyptians were. The Egyptians used their knowledge to transform cosmetics into advantageous medicines and remedies. As a result of their fixation with cleanliness and hygiene, both men and women COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT 5 used tweezers, razors, and knives made of metal or flint to remove all of their body hair. They did this for beautification reasons and to prevent body lice. Kohl eyeliner did more than just draw attention to the eyes. National Geographic studies show that kohl eyeliner also helped to ward off infections and conjunctivitis, commonly known as pinkeye, a common eye infection amongst the Egyptians. It occurred often because of the Nile’s swampy environment during the flood season, which made Egypt a perfect breeding ground for the proliferation of bacteria (American Chemical Society, 2010). Their cosmetics were usually made with lead compounds, which were recently found to be toxic and are no longer used in modern makeup. The salts in the face paint, however, increased the wearer’s nitric oxide levels by two hundred and forty percent. Nitric oxide is one of the most important compounds of the human immune system. Ultimately, it strengthened their ability to fight off harmful infections (Ravilious, 2010). As a protection from the harsh and dry climate, Egyptians rubbed moisturizing oils into their skin. According to Linda Alchin, kohl, jet black in color, also functioned much like eye black does for athletes in contemporary times; it prevented sun damage to the eyes. It was also used as a deterrent to flies (Alchin, n.d.). While bathing, Egyptians used natron, a salt mixture found in dry lake beds in Ancient Egypt which had been used for thousands of years to clean both the home and the body (Illes, n.d.). When blended with oil, it could be used as an early form of soap because it softened water while removing grease and oil. In its natural state, natron was used similarly to modern toothpaste or mouthwash. The mineral was also mixed into early antiseptics for minor wounds. Ironically, while natron was used to make Egyptians skin appear healthy and livelier, it was also used when mummifying the dead. Therefore, the Egyptians used their knowledge of chemistry and medicine to incorporate medical benefits into their beauty standards and style. COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT 6 Makeup in Ancient Egypt held great religious significance. According to author Judith Illes, the application of cosmetics intensified their connection to their gods. For example, Hathor, an Ancient Egyptian goddess who personified joy, femininity, love, and beauty, was one of the most popular and worshipped deities throughout Ancient Egypt’s history. She was worshipped by royalty and common people alike. The connection between Hathor and malachite, a rich green mineral that Ancient Egyptians used for eye shadow, was very strong. Applying the green shadow to one's eyes was thought to invoke the protective power of Hathor herself (Illes, n.d.). It was believed that putting on certain makeup could bring you closer to the gods, revealing that cosmetics were far more valuable than simple beauty products. Many Egyptians wore makeup for the purpose of emulating the otherworldly beauty of gods and goddesses. According to author Tamra Orr, “lining the eyes in black supposedly kept the person safe from evil spirits and demons as well” (Orr, 2010, p. 49). Egyptians not only wore makeup to honor the gods, but they also wanted to keep demonic spirits away. According to writer Cristen Conger, the dramatic way in which Egyptians applied eye makeup was to imitate the facial markings of the venerated sun god, Horus. While Horus’ eyes were those of a falcon, much different from the circular shape of a human’s eye, Egyptians who specifically worship Horus would add stylized markings of bird feathers under their eyes in tribute to the sun god (Conger, n.d.). In addition, cats, especially black cats, were held in high esteem to Ancient Egyptians (Stone, 2015). Many Egyptian women kept cats underneath their chairs because they believed it would provoke fertility and sexuality. Since cats were sacred to the Egyptians, they began the infamous technique of applying eyeliner to their eyes in order to create a feline effect, most commonly know as the “cat eye.” Cats were seen as religious figures, as evidenced by many temples in Egypt with large statues of cats guarding them. In other aspects of their religious beliefs, Egyptians had a strong belief in COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT 7 afterlife. They were often buried with their faces completely painted in makeup to look beautiful for the gods. They observed certain rules of dress and makeup in order to make the right impression (Dollinger, n.d.). Belief in the afterlife was a constant presence in Ancient Egypt and they showed great reverence for the dead. Judgement of the Dead is a day in which Egyptians would anticipate the examination of the gods to determine if they would be able to attain immortality after death (Dollinger, n.d.). Judith Illes also noted that Egyptian burials were almost always accompanied by cosmetics. Eye makeup equipment, such as palettes, grinders, and applicators, were found among the earliest burials of the ancient world and they seemed to have been essential items for the afterlife. To Egyptians, makeup was just as important as being entombed alongside boats to guide them to the heavens ("Ancient Egypt Boats and Transportation," 2015). Many Egyptians even believed cosmetics were a gift from the gods and some wanted to keep this god given gift to themselves. Priests took care in guarding secret recipes for many ceremonial oils and they had to protect them from traders who wanted to sell these precious products to surrounding civilizations ("Cosmetics Use in Ancient Egypt," n.d.). It is evident that religion had a vast impact on Ancient Egyptian cosmetics, much more so than it does it modern times. An Egyptian’s makeup would often reveal their social status. The social organization of Ancient Egypt was mainly centered around their religious beliefs. At the very top of the social pyramid were the gods and beneath them was the pharaoh, who was the absolute ruler of Egypt; a god in human form. Next in line were the nobles, priests, then soldiers, scribes, merchants, artisans, farmers, and at the very bottom, slaves and servants (“Egyptian Social Structure”,a.n.d.). Typically, someone of higher status would have more elaborate makeup or lavish clothes. As a pharaoh or a priest, the utmost important figures on the social pyramid, you COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT 8 would be wealthy enough to afford luxurious commodities. The wealthy classes wore wigs and shaved their heads as a way to stay up to date with the most current fashions. Some wigs were even made from human hair. They would rub perfumed oils into their scalp and in many artistic depictions of Egyptians, they wore cones of perfumed fat to represent the fact that they were wearing perfume. On the other hand, someone low on the social pyramid, such as a farmer or slave, was probably not able to afford such luxuries, and therefore would not have the opportunity to wear such elaborate makeup. The wealthy kept their makeup in beautifully carved, jewel embellished boxes, while commoners kept their makeup in rough-looking wooden boxes (Orr, 2010, p. 49). According to author Cristin Conger, “like designer handbags toted around as a status symbol, one sign of a wealthy Egyptian woman was a portable cosmetics box” (Conger C, n.d.). Just as in ancient Egypt, in today’s society makeup and overall appearance still reflect social standing. Makeup even reflected status after death, especially for the royals and upper class. The laborers of Deir El-Medina, a village where artisans who designed tombs for the Valley of Kings lived, would often place wigs, glittering jewelry, and palettes of eyeshadow into the graves they designed. In a widely known story, two robbers broke into King Tut’s tomb and stole jewelry, linens, and treasured makeup palettes (Capstone, 2002). Ultimately, one can conclude that social status personal appearance were closely intertwined in Ancient Egypt. Cosmetics were not the only aspects of beauty that Ancient Egyptians took seriously. As a result of their fixation with hygiene and cleanliness, Egyptians bathed routinely; some Egyptians even bathed up to four times a day. Wealthy Egyptians usually bathed with essential oils and aromatic flowers. Cleopatra, the last pharaoh of Ancient Egypt, was renowned for her glowing skin and radiant beauty. To keep her skin soft and beautiful she was said to have bathed in donkey’s milk. Some historians have claimed that she had up to 700 donkeys at a time to keep COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT 9 her in milk baths. The lower classes often had occupations that required more physically demanding labor and their appearance was expected to be somewhat unkempt and plain. Egyptians believed that foreigners were dirty no matter how many times they bathed, which indicates their ethnocentrism. In Egyptian culture, those who did not have access to personal hygiene were looked down upon and most likely a part of the lower classes. The upper classes loved to display their beautiful clothing and the latest fashions, including jewelry and cosmetics. Even though the poor wore jewelry, it was not so much for decoration as it was for good fortune or to ward off evil (Seawright, 2001). While the upper and lower classes retained distinctive differences in appearance, women and men alike used makeup, which embraced the budding ambiguity of masculinity and femininity. Ancient Egypt was known for its equal society, especially compared to the patriarchal dominated civilizations of the time period, such as the Huang He River Valley in China. Egyptian women like Hatshepsut and Cleopatra even became powerful and revered pharaohs (“Women in Ancient Egypt”, n.d.). Ultimately, beauty, including makeup, personal hygiene, and jewelry, reflected one’s social status in Ancient Egypt. Cosmetics and beauty in Ancient Egypt were woven throughout every aspect of society. When looking at a painting or any artifact depicting an Ancient Egyptian, especially a pharaoh, their face is always painted meticulously with makeup. But they did not go through all of the trouble of crafting the perfect cosmetics solely for aesthetic reasons. Makeup played an important role in religion, social status, culture, and medicine. Ancient Egyptians’ use of cosmetics strictly contrasts with Western makeup today, where some beauty practices such as tanning and extreme dieting actually diminish our health. Unlike in modern times, Egyptians also used makeup to show their devotion to their gods and it could also be used to determine their social standing. Egyptians, however, served as the basis for modern beauty. For example, they COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT 10 used oils and lotions for their skin and many of the modern techniques used to apply eyeliner, such as the winged cat eye, originated from Ancient Egypt. We even use blush, powders and perfumes in a similar manner. The Egyptians set the stage for worldwide beauty trends that continue today. Without them, makeup would most likely not be as prevalent in modern society. Without the importance and reverence that Ancient Egyptians held for makeup and beauty, our standards of beauty would be drastically different from how they are today. References Alchin, L. (n.d.). Egyptian Make Up. Retrieved from history embalmed website: http://www.historyembalmed.org/ancient-egyptians/egyptian-make-up.htm [Ancient Egyptain:Hair and Beauty]. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2015, from Purchasereq website: http://purchasereq.tripod.com/id9.html Ancient Egypt Boats and Transportation. (2015). Retrieved from Ducksters website: http://www.ducksters.com/history/ancient_egypt/boats_and_transportation.php COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT 11 Conger, C. (n.d.). Why did ancient Egyptian men wear cosmetics? Retrieved from HowStuffWorks website: http://history.howstuffworks.com/history-vs-myth/ancientegyptian-cosmetics1.htm Cosmetics Use in Ancient Egypt. (n.d.). Retrieved from History of Cosmetics website: http://www.historyofcosmetics.net/cosmetic-history/ancient-egypt-cosmetics/ Dollinger, A. (n.d.). Personal Hygiene and Cosmetics. Retrieved from An introduction to the history and culture of Pharaonic Egypt website: http://www.reshafim.org.il/ad/egypt/timelines/topics/cosmetics.htm Hawass, Z. A. (2000). Silent images: Women in Pharaonic Egypt. New York: Harry N. Abrams. Illes, J. (n.d.). Ancient Egyptian Eye Makeup. Retrieved from Tour Egypt website: http://www.touregypt.net/egypt-info/magazine-mag09012000-mag4.htm Illes, J. (n.d.). Egypt: Beauty Salts. Retrieved from Tour Egypt website: http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/salt.htm Manniche, L. (1999). Sacred Luxuries: Fragrance, Aromatherapy, and Cosmetics in Ancient Egypt. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press. Manning, R. (2003). Ancient Egyptian women. Chicago: Heinemann Library. McMahon, L. (n.d.). History of Makeup. Retrieved December 5, 2015, from The Circular website: http://thecircular.org/maybe-shes-born-with-it-yeah-didnt-think-so-history-ofmake-up/ Orr, T. (2010). In Ancient Egypt. Peck, W. H. (n.d.). The Material World of Ancient Egypt. Cambride, England: Cambridge University Press. COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT 12 Personal Hygiene and Cosmetics. (n.d.). Retrieved November 25, 2015, from http://www.reshafim.org.il/ad/egypt/timelines/topics/cosmetics.htm Rutherford, M. (n.d.). The Ancient Egyptian Concept of Beauty. Retrieved from Tour Egypt website: http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/beauty.htm Seawright, C. (2001). Egyptian Women: Life in Ancient Egypt. Retrieved from The Keep website: http://www.thekeep.org/~kunoichi/kunoichi/themestream/women_egypt.html#.VnbyJYSJn lI Stone, R. (2015, May 9). The Veneration and Worship of Felines and Ancient Egypt. Retrieved December 19, 2015, from http://www.ancient-origins.net/history/veneration-andworship-felines-ancient-egypt-003030 ushistory.org. (n.d.). Egyptian Social Structure. Retrieved December 5, 2015, from Ancient Civilizations Online Textbook website: http://www.ushistory.org/civ/3b.asp Women in Ancient Egypt. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2015, from Crystal Links website: http://www.crystalinks.com/egyptianwomen.html