Download Cleopatra: More Than Just a Pretty Face Julia Gutierrez, Madison

Running head: COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT
Cleopatra: More Than Just a Pretty Face
Julia Gutierrez, Madison Plourde, Caterina Powers, Abigail Renner
Smithtown High School West
AP World History Conference
“Standards of Beauty: Perceptions of Perfection”
May 18th, 2016
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COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT
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Abstract
From the origin of henna tattoos to the intricate techniques of applying kohl eyeliner,
Egypt’s history has been deeply adorned by the wide world of cosmetics and beauty. Ancient
Egyptians were notorious for their advanced cosmetology abilities and elaborate makeup
routines. In Ancient Egyptian times, cosmetics were a quintessential aspect of society. Both men
and women indulged in makeup, perfume, and beauty rituals they believed enhanced their
appearance. Although Egyptian makeup was mainly used for aesthetic purposes, it was utilized
in social, medical, and religious aspects of life as well. Cosmetics often emulated religious
symbolism and provided a myriad of medical benefits. Eye makeup was used to protect against
eye disease, flies, moisturize the eyes, and protect against harsh sunlight, while facial creams
were used to exfoliate and to protect the skin from sun, dust, and dryness. Cosmetics often
echoed religious beliefs and the worship of the gods. The Ancient Egyptians regarded beauty as
an extension of holiness, and used cosmetics to mirror one’s religious devotion. Also, an
Egyptian’s appearance often reflected their position in the complex Ancient Egyptian social
hierarchy. Although many people believe cosmetics in Ancient Egypt were only used for
beautification purposes, cosmetics and beauty played rather important roles that fused many
parts of their civilization together: culture, medicine, religion, and social status.
COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT
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Cleopatra: More Than Just a Pretty Face
The beauty of the Egyptians was unparalleled by anything else in the ancient world. The
earliest masterpiece in Egyptian art is said to be the ceremonial cosmetic palette of King Narmer.
Just like Narmer’s palette, basic cosmetic palettes were one of the most typical belongings found
in ancient tombs, which implicitly shows that cosmetics were an innate part of life for Egyptians.
The application of face makeup coincides with the desire to improve one’s appearance, an
element entwined in the primitive sexual nature of humans. At the foundation of taking care of
one’s physical and mental wellbeing was cleanliness. Hygiene was vitally important to
Egyptians. A state of purity was required to enter a temple or when priests conducted rituals.
Both men and women wore freshly washed clothing and fought body odor with remedies made
from natural chemicals. Along with their deep care for hygiene and appearance, the Ancient
Egyptians must have truly believed that the eyes were the windows to the soul, because they took
meticulous care in painting and decorating them to perfection (Manniche, 1999, p. 127). The
tradition of outlining the eyes with pigment to create a feline shape was common, but the
importance placed upon this practice transcends the modern Western concept of eye makeup,
which is strictly based on aesthetic. Although it is widely believed that cosmetics in Ancient
Egypt were only used for beautification purposes, cosmetics and beauty played rather important
roles that fused many parts of their civilization together: culture, medicine, religion, and social
status.
Although Ancient Egypt’s civilization existed thousands of years ago, its people had
elaborate cosmetic routines that mirror our routines today. Personal appearance was important to
the Egyptians (Manniche, 1999, p. 127). Their chemists developed natural cosmetics from
minerals, plants and even metals to satisfy their lavish style. Their advanced maquillage was a
COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT
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welcomed luxury that resulted from the proclivity that Ancient Egyptians had for cutting-edge
science and technology. Egyptians often wore black kohl eyeliner. In North Africa and the
Middle East, kohl was often made by grinding galena, or lead sulfide, while in West Africa they
would use organic charcoal instead of lead. Plant oils and the residue from various nuts, seeds,
and gum resins were often added to the powder. Lead sulfide was commonly found in the
Eastern Desert, a section of the Sahara Desert between the Nile River and the Red Sea. Egyptians
used green malachite for the eyes, a color that was predominantly associated with deep healing
and nature. Blushes and other powders were was mixed with oils and soot and stored in hand
painted pots to eventually be applied with the fingers (Hawass, 2000, p. 123). Red ochre, or
rouge, was used to color the lips and the face. Hydrated iron oxide, a clay-like substance that was
filtered and dried, was used in face makeup to achieve a glowing sheen (Alchin, n.d.). In
addition to appearance, one’s scent was also important to the Ancient Egyptians. Pliny the Elder,
a 1st century Roman writer, explained the unique value that Egyptians held for oils and
perfumes. They would press flowers and fruits into oils to give off a strong, ambrosial scent.
They were later stored in decorative pots and jars (Hawass, 2000, p. 123). Egyptians were
notorious for their henna tattoos. It is often argued that henna originated in Egypt and then
spread to the Middle East and Asia. The Egyptians dried henna leaves and crushed them into a
fine powder. They mixed the powder into a paste with oils, which could then be applied to the
skin to make extraordinarily detailed designs (Persad, 2015). The complex processes of creating
makeup demonstrates the significance of cosmetics and how intellectually advanced Egyptians
were.
The Egyptians used their knowledge to transform cosmetics into advantageous medicines
and remedies. As a result of their fixation with cleanliness and hygiene, both men and women
COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT
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used tweezers, razors, and knives made of metal or flint to remove all of their body hair. They
did this for beautification reasons and to prevent body lice. Kohl eyeliner did more than just
draw attention to the eyes. National Geographic studies show that kohl eyeliner also helped to
ward off infections and conjunctivitis, commonly known as pinkeye, a common eye infection
amongst the Egyptians. It occurred often because of the Nile’s swampy environment during the
flood season, which made Egypt a perfect breeding ground for the proliferation of bacteria
(American Chemical Society, 2010). Their cosmetics were usually made with lead compounds,
which were recently found to be toxic and are no longer used in modern makeup. The salts in the
face paint, however, increased the wearer’s nitric oxide levels by two hundred and forty percent.
Nitric oxide is one of the most important compounds of the human immune system. Ultimately,
it strengthened their ability to fight off harmful infections (Ravilious, 2010). As a protection
from the harsh and dry climate, Egyptians rubbed moisturizing oils into their skin. According to
Linda Alchin, kohl, jet black in color, also functioned much like eye black does for athletes in
contemporary times; it prevented sun damage to the eyes. It was also used as a deterrent to flies
(Alchin, n.d.). While bathing, Egyptians used natron, a salt mixture found in dry lake beds in
Ancient Egypt which had been used for thousands of years to clean both the home and the body
(Illes, n.d.). When blended with oil, it could be used as an early form of soap because it softened
water while removing grease and oil. In its natural state, natron was used similarly to modern
toothpaste or mouthwash. The mineral was also mixed into early antiseptics for minor wounds.
Ironically, while natron was used to make Egyptians skin appear healthy and livelier, it was also
used when mummifying the dead. Therefore, the Egyptians used their knowledge of chemistry
and medicine to incorporate medical benefits into their beauty standards and style.
COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT
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Makeup in Ancient Egypt held great religious significance. According to author Judith
Illes, the application of cosmetics intensified their connection to their gods. For example, Hathor,
an Ancient Egyptian goddess who personified joy, femininity, love, and beauty, was one of the
most popular and worshipped deities throughout Ancient Egypt’s history. She was worshipped
by royalty and common people alike. The connection between Hathor and malachite, a rich green
mineral that Ancient Egyptians used for eye shadow, was very strong. Applying the green
shadow to one's eyes was thought to invoke the protective power of Hathor herself (Illes, n.d.). It
was believed that putting on certain makeup could bring you closer to the gods, revealing that
cosmetics were far more valuable than simple beauty products. Many Egyptians wore makeup
for the purpose of emulating the otherworldly beauty of gods and goddesses. According to author
Tamra Orr, “lining the eyes in black supposedly kept the person safe from evil spirits and
demons as well” (Orr, 2010, p. 49). Egyptians not only wore makeup to honor the gods, but they
also wanted to keep demonic spirits away. According to writer Cristen Conger, the dramatic way
in which Egyptians applied eye makeup was to imitate the facial markings of the venerated sun
god, Horus. While Horus’ eyes were those of a falcon, much different from the circular shape of
a human’s eye, Egyptians who specifically worship Horus would add stylized markings of bird
feathers under their eyes in tribute to the sun god (Conger, n.d.). In addition, cats, especially
black cats, were held in high esteem to Ancient Egyptians (Stone, 2015). Many Egyptian women
kept cats underneath their chairs because they believed it would provoke fertility and sexuality.
Since cats were sacred to the Egyptians, they began the infamous technique of applying eyeliner
to their eyes in order to create a feline effect, most commonly know as the “cat eye.” Cats were
seen as religious figures, as evidenced by many temples in Egypt with large statues of cats
guarding them. In other aspects of their religious beliefs, Egyptians had a strong belief in
COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT
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afterlife. They were often buried with their faces completely painted in makeup to look beautiful
for the gods. They observed certain rules of dress and makeup in order to make the right
impression (Dollinger, n.d.). Belief in the afterlife was a constant presence in Ancient Egypt and
they showed great reverence for the dead. Judgement of the Dead is a day in which Egyptians
would anticipate the examination of the gods to determine if they would be able to attain
immortality after death (Dollinger, n.d.). Judith Illes also noted that Egyptian burials were almost
always accompanied by cosmetics. Eye makeup equipment, such as palettes, grinders, and
applicators, were found among the earliest burials of the ancient world and they seemed to have
been essential items for the afterlife. To Egyptians, makeup was just as important as being
entombed alongside boats to guide them to the heavens ("Ancient Egypt Boats and
Transportation," 2015). Many Egyptians even believed cosmetics were a gift from the gods and
some wanted to keep this god given gift to themselves. Priests took care in guarding secret
recipes for many ceremonial oils and they had to protect them from traders who wanted to sell
these precious products to surrounding civilizations ("Cosmetics Use in Ancient Egypt," n.d.). It
is evident that religion had a vast impact on Ancient Egyptian cosmetics, much more so than it
does it modern times.
An Egyptian’s makeup would often reveal their social status. The social organization of
Ancient Egypt was mainly centered around their religious beliefs. At the very top of the social
pyramid were the gods and beneath them was the pharaoh, who was the absolute ruler of Egypt;
a god in human form. Next in line were the nobles, priests, then soldiers, scribes, merchants,
artisans, farmers, and at the very bottom, slaves and servants (“Egyptian Social
Structure”,a.n.d.). Typically, someone of higher status would have more elaborate makeup or
lavish clothes. As a pharaoh or a priest, the utmost important figures on the social pyramid, you
COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT
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would be wealthy enough to afford luxurious commodities. The wealthy classes wore wigs and
shaved their heads as a way to stay up to date with the most current fashions. Some wigs were
even made from human hair. They would rub perfumed oils into their scalp and in many artistic
depictions of Egyptians, they wore cones of perfumed fat to represent the fact that they were
wearing perfume. On the other hand, someone low on the social pyramid, such as a farmer or
slave, was probably not able to afford such luxuries, and therefore would not have the
opportunity to wear such elaborate makeup. The wealthy kept their makeup in beautifully
carved, jewel embellished boxes, while commoners kept their makeup in rough-looking wooden
boxes (Orr, 2010, p. 49). According to author Cristin Conger, “like designer handbags toted
around as a status symbol, one sign of a wealthy Egyptian woman was a portable cosmetics box”
(Conger C, n.d.). Just as in ancient Egypt, in today’s society makeup and overall appearance still
reflect social standing. Makeup even reflected status after death, especially for the royals and
upper class. The laborers of Deir El-Medina, a village where artisans who designed tombs for the
Valley of Kings lived, would often place wigs, glittering jewelry, and palettes of eyeshadow into
the graves they designed. In a widely known story, two robbers broke into King Tut’s tomb and
stole jewelry, linens, and treasured makeup palettes (Capstone, 2002). Ultimately, one can
conclude that social status personal appearance were closely intertwined in Ancient Egypt.
Cosmetics were not the only aspects of beauty that Ancient Egyptians took seriously. As
a result of their fixation with hygiene and cleanliness, Egyptians bathed routinely; some
Egyptians even bathed up to four times a day. Wealthy Egyptians usually bathed with essential
oils and aromatic flowers. Cleopatra, the last pharaoh of Ancient Egypt, was renowned for her
glowing skin and radiant beauty. To keep her skin soft and beautiful she was said to have bathed
in donkey’s milk. Some historians have claimed that she had up to 700 donkeys at a time to keep
COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT
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her in milk baths. The lower classes often had occupations that required more physically
demanding labor and their appearance was expected to be somewhat unkempt and plain.
Egyptians believed that foreigners were dirty no matter how many times they bathed, which
indicates their ethnocentrism. In Egyptian culture, those who did not have access to personal
hygiene were looked down upon and most likely a part of the lower classes. The upper classes
loved to display their beautiful clothing and the latest fashions, including jewelry and cosmetics.
Even though the poor wore jewelry, it was not so much for decoration as it was for good fortune
or to ward off evil (Seawright, 2001). While the upper and lower classes retained distinctive
differences in appearance, women and men alike used makeup, which embraced the budding
ambiguity of masculinity and femininity. Ancient Egypt was known for its equal society,
especially compared to the patriarchal dominated civilizations of the time period, such as the
Huang He River Valley in China. Egyptian women like Hatshepsut and Cleopatra even became
powerful and revered pharaohs (“Women in Ancient Egypt”, n.d.). Ultimately, beauty, including
makeup, personal hygiene, and jewelry, reflected one’s social status in Ancient Egypt.
Cosmetics and beauty in Ancient Egypt were woven throughout every aspect of society.
When looking at a painting or any artifact depicting an Ancient Egyptian, especially a pharaoh,
their face is always painted meticulously with makeup. But they did not go through all of the
trouble of crafting the perfect cosmetics solely for aesthetic reasons. Makeup played an
important role in religion, social status, culture, and medicine. Ancient Egyptians’ use of
cosmetics strictly contrasts with Western makeup today, where some beauty practices such as
tanning and extreme dieting actually diminish our health. Unlike in modern times, Egyptians also
used makeup to show their devotion to their gods and it could also be used to determine their
social standing. Egyptians, however, served as the basis for modern beauty. For example, they
COSMETICS AND BEAUTY IN ANCIENT EGYPT
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used oils and lotions for their skin and many of the modern techniques used to apply eyeliner,
such as the winged cat eye, originated from Ancient Egypt. We even use blush, powders and
perfumes in a similar manner. The Egyptians set the stage for worldwide beauty trends that
continue today. Without them, makeup would most likely not be as prevalent in modern society.
Without the importance and reverence that Ancient Egyptians held for makeup and beauty, our
standards of beauty would be drastically different from how they are today.
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