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Written by Frances Badgett
Photographed by Kristoffer Arestol
Catch
Grill it, smoke it, eat it
raw — fish is one of the great
delicacies, and preparing and
eating fresh-caught wild fish
is a whole new order of seafood dining. If you enjoy the
outdoors, the water, and the
connection of nature to your
plate, here are some great
ways to harvest one of the
healthiest entrees around.
Angling for Salmon
The two main questions most people
heading out to fish for the first time
ask: when and where? The Department
of Fish and Wildlife takes samples of
salmon from Squalicum Marina in
Whatcom County and Washington Park
launch ramp in Skagit. From these samples, the DFW issues a report that indicates how many salmon are running
at any given time. This information is
most useful for predicting the best time
to catch salmon if viewed over a two or
three –year trend (and all those records
are available), rather than up-to-theminute reporting. Some of the reports
are more than a week old, which means
you may miss the peak if you’re getting old information. The sampling
areas aren’t the recommended areas
for angling. The DFW offers maps, upto-date information about regulations,
areas that may be closed to fishing, and
licensing. The DFW also has maps and
information about areas that may be
closed for management purposes or for
the season.
Chartering a Boat
Harvesting Shellfish
Crabbing
Searching for the right spot to fish on
the right day in the right weather can
be a challenge. An experienced captain
with a good boat can take you to favorite spots, and he will know the best
times to go. Whether you are learning
how to fish, determining your level of
commitment to the sea, or an expert
without a boat, grab some friends
and spend an afternoon or a weekend reeling in the sea’s bounty. Four
charters — R&R Charters, Highliner
Charters, Jolly Mon, and Catchmore
Charters — run out of Anacortes.
Our nearshore waters are often closed
for shellfish harvesting in the summer,
but not always. Birch Bay, Chuckanut
Bay, Semiahmoo, Drayton Harbor,
Larrabee State Park, Point Roberts, and
South Birch Point are all public oyster and clam beaches. There will be big
signs warning you if the beaches are
closed. You’ll see the buoys for crab
pots scattered around Fairhaven in
Bellingham, down south in Skagit, and
up in Semiahmoo and Birch Bay. Birch
Bay State Park’s clam band is a great
place to dig. From the gravel to the low
dirt line, you can harvest littleneck and
Manila clams. In the sandy upper intertidal, you can find butter clams, cockles, and horse clams. Oysters can be
harvested on the north end of the beach
as well. Patos Island has clam-digging
and oyster harvesting year-round.
If getting out on the water and tossing around lines and nets is too much
like work for you, crab might be more
your speed. No, not the scary crabbing of Deadliest Catch; we’re talking
about an afternoon of baiting traps, setting pots, and waiting. Go out at high
tide, cut your motor, bait the trap (turkey leg seems to be de riguer for crabbers) and drop the pot. Have a beer,
go for a swim, read a few chapters of a
good book, and your dinner comes to
you. Just be aware that crab can strip
that bait (typically a turkey leg) very
quickly, so don’t leave it out too long.
Bear in mind that you have to measure
your crab and not overfish, which is
true about almost every form of fishing.
•randrfishingcharters.com, highlinercharters.com, jollymonanacortes.com,
catchmorecharters.com
As of printing, the Whatcom County Health Department issued the following statement:
Unsafe levels of paralytic shellfish poisoning (PSP) biotoxin have been detected in molluscan shellfish
on beaches in Drayton Harbor. As a result, the Washington State Department of Health (DOH) has
closed recreational harvest for all species of molluscan shellfish on beaches from Birch Point north to
the Canadian border. Molluscun are defined as oysters, clams, mussels, and scallops.
June | July 201563
Black Rock Seafood
in Anacortes
Fish and Anacortes are practically synonymous, as Anacortes is the gateway
to the San Juans. With fishing boats
galore, it’s great that there’s a place to
buy some of that bounty. Black Rock
gets high marks for its crab, but don’t
overlook their other offerings. Even
prepared fish like the pickled herring
are highly prized by locals.
•8991 Stevenson Rd., Anacortes
Blau Oyster Company on
Samish Bay
Specializing in the hardy and tender
Pacific Oyster, Blau Oyster grows all
their stock from seed and harvests onsite. Blau also offers crab, clams, and
mussels in addition to oysters. When
oysters reach maturity, Blau processes
them for distributors, stores, and restaurants, keeping some of their stock
live for raw consumption and barbecuing. By the pint or pound, half-dozen
or full, the oysters at Blau are delicious
and carefully harvested.
•11321 Blue Heron Rd., Bow, blauoyster.com
Bornstein Seafoods
in Bellingham
Myer Bornstein started this little seafood company in Bellingham in 1934,
and through the stewardship of his
descendants, it is still going strong.
Though most of their products are for
wholesale distribution, they have a
robust online presence featuring premium canned albacore and salmon.
Bornstein Seafoods works closely with
the Marine Stewardship Council to
ensure their sources are sustainable.
Shigokus
•1001 Hilton Ave., Bellingham, bornstein.com
Skagit’s Own Fish Market
Owned and operated by Tana and Eric
Skaugrud, the Skagit Fish Market is a
great place to explore new kinds of fish
or pick up favorite standbys. Clean,
comfortable, and well-stocked, the
shopping experience at the market is
unparalleled. They specialize in crab,
but offer all kinds of fish. They can
identify the finest products and offer
lots of advice on preparation. A great
place to dive into seafood if you’re at
all hesitant.
Mussels
Pacifics
•18042 WA 20, Burlington, skagitfish.com
Virginica
Clams
Kumamotos
June | July 201565
Packers Oyster Bar and
Pierside Kitchen
With Drayton Harbor Oyster Farm
just over the railing, you really can’t go
wrong with the oysters at Packers and
the fish dishes next door at Pierside.
Fresh halibut, salmon, ahi, and more
are served delicately seared to perfection with sauces that complement but
don’t overwhelm. With all of that sparkling water surrounding Semiahmoo,
it’s a perfect place for an oceaninspired dinner.
•9565 Semiahmoo Parkway, Blaine, semiahmoo.com
Packers
Secret Cove in
Anacortes
With a brand-new patio overlooking
the water, this seaside retreat is pure
pleasure. They offer fresh shellfish (oyster, crab, mussels) in an elegant, yet
casual dining room. They are perfectly
located on the water for the absolute
utmost in freshness.
•209 T Ave., Anacortes, secretcoveanacortes.com
Oyster Bar
Coho Restaurant in
Friday Harbor
Though seafood isn’t their only menu
offering, it certainly is the focus of
this Northwest gem. Located in a
Craftsman bungalow a few blocks
from the ferry terminal, Coho is a
cozy, welcoming spot. Mussels, octopus, trout, halibut, and more grace
their menu, all prepared with a
Mediterranean influence. The owners are committed to offering locally
sourced ingredients, and the art on the
walls is all local as well. Westcott Bay
Seafood supplies Coho with fresh fish,
ensuring Coho’s commitment to fresh,
local, and sustainable seafood. 
•120 Nichols St., Friday Harbor, cohorestaurant.com
Rock and Rye