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Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Chapter Pre-Requisites
Before reading this chapter, you should already:
• Have read “How to Use This Book,” pages xxviii-xxxiii, and
understand the professional recipe format.
• Be familiar with standard cuts of meat and poultry.
• Know how to determine tenderness or toughness in a cut of meat or
poultry.
• Have mastered basic meat and poultry cooking methods used for
hot service.
• Know how to judge the internal doneness of meat and poultry by
both touch and temperature.
• Know and observe food safety practices for protein-based foods to
be served cold.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Chapter Objectives
After reading this chapter, you should be able to:
• Prepare attractive, profitable deli trays.
• Roast, grill, and poach meats and poultry for cold
presentations.
• Carve roasted meats and poultry correctly and efficiently.
• Fabricate cold meats and poultry for use in sandwiches,
complex salads, and other garde manger preparations.
• Prepare cold meats and poultry for formal buffet
presentations.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Applications for Cold Meats
Cold Meats for Sandwiches
• Cold meats are most frequently used as a filling for
sandwiches.
• Sandwiches may be made with industrially produced
luncheon meats or with meats cooked in-house.
• In this chapter, we:
– focus on how to roast, poach, and otherwise cook meats to be
used in cold sandwiches.
– discuss the various ways in which both types of sandwich meats
may be presented.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Applications for Cold Meats
Deli Trays
•
•
Can be thought of as a portable do-it-yourself sandwich station.
Deli trays usually consist of:
–
–
–
–
Industrially-produced luncheon meats.
Cheeses sliced thin by machine.
Vegetables.
Spreads and condiments.
Hand-Carved Meats
•
•
•
To carve: to fabricate large cuts of cooked meat into pieces/portions.
Most cooked sandwich meats are carved in the kitchen, out of guests’ sight.
However, some buffet operations feature carving stations or displays at
which chefs slice hot or cold meats to order.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Applications for Cold Meats
Guidelines for Making Deli Trays
•
•
•
•
•
•
A well-prepared deli tray is attractive
and designed for easy service.
•
Line deli trays with lettuce leaves before placing
meats and cheeses.
Provide about 4 oz (120 g) total meat and 1 oz (30 g)
total cheese per serving, plus about 10% extra.
Provide 1–1.5 fl oz (30–45 mL) total spreads and
condiments per serving.
Separate slices of meat and cheese, and fold/roll
them into attractive shapes before placing on tray.
Slice rolls and breads before service.
Wrap the deli tray and all accompaniments airtight to
prevent drying-out or staling.
Provide the appropriate utensils for serving the
meats, spreads, and condiments.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Applications for Cold Meats
Cold Meats for Buffet Presentation
• To function as a décor item, a roast must remain largely
intact and attractive throughout the service.
– Plan ahead to have enough meat both for service and display.
– For a smaller number of guests, the chef prepares a large roast
and slices one-half to two-thirds of it.
– The remaining section is placed on the platter as the focal point
of the presentation.
– This large, intact section is referred to as the grosse pièce
literally “large piece.”
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Applications for Cold Meats
Cold Meats for Buffet Presentation
• When arranged on a platter, with or without a grosse pièce, slices
should be arranged in straight or curving lines in attractive patterns.
– Sequencing: keeping slices in order as they are cut.
– When the food item being sliced has a tapered shape, the arrangement
will look best if the slices are sequenced.
– Sequenced slices can be reassembled into the original shape of the
item before it was sliced.
Reassembled
slices
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Applications for Cold Meats
Platter Décor
• For formal buffet presentations,
one or more types of décor may
be added to cold meat platters:
1. Herb bouquets: typically
placed on the platter or carving
board around the base of the
roast.
2. Carved vegetables and fruits:
often added to the platter or
carving board as decoration.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Applications for Cold Meats
Platter Décor
• Attelets
: Skewers with an ornamented top.
– They are used to create height in the presentation of a cold roast, pâté, or
other garde manger item.
• Garnitures: Small, attractive composed food items that are selfcontained and freestanding on the platter; the French term garniture
simply translates as “garnish.”
– They are often arranged on a platter of roasted meat or poultry to provide
both décor and accompaniment.
• Aspic and chaud-froid: The most classic of all décor types.
– A coating of aspic gelée
or chaud-froid
creates an attractive
presentation and prevents the meat from drying out.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Preparing Cold Meat Products
Principles of Cooking Meats to Be Served Cold
• Minimize Fat
– Remove as much visible fat as possible from meats/poultry served cold.
– When fat cools to room temperature it becomes more solid, and when
chilled, it further solidifies into a dense, slick mass.
• Season Liberally
– Cold temperatures dull the taste buds.
– You must season meats/poultry intended for cold service more than you
would the same product intended for hot service.
• Achieve the Appropriate Internal Temperature
– Cold preparations of beef, lamb, and game meats should be cooked to
a medium rare or medium doneness.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Preparing Cold Meat Products
Principles of Cooking Meats to Be Served Cold
• Retaining Moisture
– Meats and poultry for cold/room temperature service must be cooked
ahead of time, cooled, and then held for a time before being served.
– Once exposed to the air, their surfaces easily dry out.
• Methods to prevent surface drying and ensure a moist
mouthfeel:
1. Once cold meats are carved or otherwise fabricated, baste their
surfaces with a small amount of an appropriate stock.
2. Store poached meat submerged in its cuisson, or poaching liquid.
3. Keep prepared platters covered with plastic film until service begins.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Preparing Cold Meat Products
Principles of Cooking Meats to Be Served Cold
• Serving at the Proper Temperature
– Optimal temperature for cold service of meat/poultry is not actually cold.
– Both meats and poultry are best when served at cool room temperature,
60°–75°F (16°–24°C), at which the meat’s flavor is most pronounced
and its texture is softened, ensuring the best mouthfeel.
• Observing Food Safety Procedures
– Cold meats and poultry are protein foods that undergo a lot of handling,
making them susceptible to contamination by harmful microorganisms.
– Be vigilant about sanitation and observing food safety procedures.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Preparing Cold Meat Products
Cooking Methods for Cold Meats
• Of the many methods that can be used to cook meats and poultry,
only a few are typically used to prepare them for cold service.
– Roasting: The method most frequently used to cook meats and poultry
for cold presentation is roasting.
– Grilling: Meats and poultry for grilling are sometimes marinated before
they are cooked.
– Poaching: Lean white meats and white-meat poultry are frequently
poached for cold service.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Raw Meat Dishes
In many of the world’s cuisines, raw meat dishes
play an important role.
• In Korean and Southeast Asian cuisines, raw beef is
featured in salads and snack foods.
• In Ethiopian cuisine, chopped raw beef flavored with hot
spiced butter is a favorite dish.
• Middle Eastern cuisines boast raw lamb mezze as
appetizers.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Raw Meat Dishes
Western cuisines feature only
two important dishes in which
meat is served uncooked (both
use beef):
Carpaccio
1. Steak tartare
: Hand-chopped,
raw beef filet mixed with raw egg
yolk and various spicy seasonings
and condiments.
2. Carpaccio
: Consists of very thin
sliced raw beef filet accented with a
mustard mayonnaise sauce.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Raw Meat Dishes
Guidelines for Preparing Raw Meat Dishes
• Do not serve uncooked pork or poultry due to the risk of
food-borne illness associated with these foods.
– Only beef, lamb, and farmed venison are considered safe for raw
service.
• Use tender cuts only.
– Even after undergoing the physical tenderization of chopping or
slicing, tough cuts are unpleasantly chewy when served raw.
• Keep the meat very cold at all times.
– This is necessary both for food safety and to keep the meat firm
for easy cutting.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Raw Meat Dishes
Guidelines for Preparing Raw Meat Dishes
• Trim off all connective tissue and fat from the meat
before chopping or slicing it. If any remains, the meat will
be unpleasantly stringy and greasy.
• Always fabricate the meat by hand—do not attempt to
chop beef for steak tartare in a meat grinder.
• Even a cleaned and sanitized grinder can harbor harmful
microorganisms. In addition, a grinder does not create
the proper texture.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Raw Meat Dishes
Guidelines for Preparing Raw Meat Dishes
• For à la carte service, chop or slice the meat to order.
• For hors d’oeuvre work or buffet service, prepare the
meat at the last possible moment—do not plan to hold
the finished dish very long.
• Chopped or sliced raw meat can easily become
contaminated by harmful microorganisms.
– Exposure to air destroys the red pigments in the meat, causing it
to quickly change from an attractive red color to an unattractive
shade of brown.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Raw Meat Dishes
Guidelines for Preparing Raw Meat Dishes
• Add acidic ingredients, such as lemon juice, to raw meat dishes at
the last minute before serving.
• Prolonged contact with acidic ingredients gives the meat a cooked
texture and discolors it.
• Use only freshly thawed pasteurized egg yolk in steak tartare.
• Be vigilant in your sanitation practices when serving raw meat. In
some areas, food-service operators are required by law to post
warnings about the risks of consuming raw meat.
• Be sure to know and comply with local regulations.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Meat-based Mousses
Liver Parfaits
• Once cooked, cooled poultry livers are puréed with softened butter
to create a smooth spread that is more rich and dense than a
standard liver mousse.
• Additional ingredients, such as aromatic vegetables, herbs and
spices, spirits, and cream may be added to the mixture.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Meat-based Mousses
Liver Parfaits
•
•
•
•
•
Due to their high fat content, liver parfaits
freeze well.
Liver parfaits are less perishable than
liver mousses, as they do not contain raw
egg whites.
Parfaits are served as appetizers much in
the same manner as smooth liver pâtés.
Crackers or bread typically accompany
small molded forms or ramekins of liver
parfait.
Alternatively, liver parfait may be used as
an hors d’oeuvre component when piped
onto a canapé or into a savory profiterole.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Foie Gras
Foie Gras
• Foie gras is defined as the enlarged liver of a goose or
duck that is the result of accelerated feeding of a highcalorie diet.
• The French term foie gras literally means “fat liver.”
• Foie gras ranks along with caviar and truffles as one of
the Western world’s most expensive and luxurious foods.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Foie Gras
Foie Gras
•
•
•
•
When geese and ducks consume many calories over a short period, much
of the fat also forms within their livers—these grow abnormally large and
acquire an unusually pale color.
When the livers are harvested and correctly prepared, they have a
delicious, mild, buttery flavor and a rich, smooth mouthfeel.
Accelerated feeding of geese and ducks is accomplished by utilizing a
method known by the French word gavage.
Gavage
: Translates from the French as “force-feeding,” although that is
not necessarily an accurate description.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Foie Gras
Fresh Foie Gras
• Due to the extreme perishability of the product, most all foie gras
sold outside its immediate production area was originally cooked by
a processor prior to sale.
• Even after refrigeration became the norm, restaurants purchased
prepared foie gras because of the difficulty of cooking it correctly.
• During the nouvelle cuisine era, chefs began to serve foie gras hot,
slicing and pan-searing raw foie gras to order.
• Today, most chefs agree that fresh, domestic foie gras correctly
cooked in-house is far superior to processed foie gras in cold
presentations.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Foie Gras
Fresh Foie Gras
1. Grade A Foie Gras:
–
is firm in texture.
•
–
–
–
–
The firm texture results in a higher melt point, making it less difficult
to cook correctly.
is pale and even in color.
is rounded oval shape.
weighs at least 11⁄2 lb (700 g).
has large amount of interior veining, yielding large, intact slices.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Foie Gras
Fresh Foie Gras
2. Grade B Foie Gras:
–
–
–
is flatter in shape.
is smaller than a Grade A liver.
has more interior veining and lower melt point.
3. Grade C Foie Gras:
–
–
is small and may contain visual imperfections.
is typically used for puréed preparations, such as mousses and
sauces.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Foie Gras
Procedure for Cleaning and Seasoning Fresh Foie Gras
1. Place the opened foie gras in a bowl set under a gentle stream of
room-temperature water.
–
Flush the foie gras about ½ hour, or until the water runs clear and the
foie gras warms enough to become pliable, but not breakable.
2. Blot the foie gras dry and place it on a freshly sanitized work
surface.
3. Slowly and gently pull the two lobes apart.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Foie Gras
Procedure for Cleaning and Seasoning Fresh Foie Gras
4. Use your fingers or a small, sharp knife to remove any visible
membrane and surface blemishes from each lobe.
5. Lay each lobe on the worktable so the smooth side is down and the
rough side is up.
–
Starting at the narrow, top end of each lobe, slit open the lobe about
halfway to the other end and about halfway into its depth.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Foie Gras
Procedure for Cleaning and
Seasoning Fresh Foie Gras
6. Use your fingers and, if necessary,
sanitized tweezers or needle nose
pliers to remove the interior veins.
–
–
Grasp the thick top part of the vein
network and pull gently while
holding back the meat of the liver.
Your goal is to extract the veins
without breaking or disturbing the
structure of the liver.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Foie Gras
Procedure for Cleaning and Seasoning Fresh Foie Gras
7. Sprinkle the interior and exterior of each lobe with the desired
seasoning ingredients.
8. Wrap each lobe in plastic film, and then seal the wrapped lobes in a
plastic bag.
9. Bury the bag of foie gras in ice and refrigerate 24 hours.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Foie Gras
Procedure for Poaching Fresh Duck Foie Gras
Prepare the torchon
Lower the torchon into simmering cuisson
Roll it into a uniform cylinder
Remove the
yellow fat from
the foie gras.
Slice from the
torchon of
foie gras.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Foie Gras
Processed Foie Gras and Foie Gras Products
• Foie Gras Cuit, Entier: Whole lobes of cooked, seasoned
foie gras vacuum-packed and refrigerated or frozen.
• Foie Gras Cuit, Morceaux: Pieces of cooked, seasoned
foie gras vacuum-packed and refrigerated or frozen.
• Bloc de Foie Gras: Foie gras puréed and emulsified with
water, and then heat-processed in a can.
– Must be at least 98% total foie gras
– May contain both goose and duck foie gras.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
7
Cold Meats
Foie Gras
Processed Foie Gras and Foie Gras Products
• Parfait de Foie Gras : Puréed and cooked with cream
and butter, then canned and heat-processed.
– Must contain at east 75% foie gras.
– Some varieties contain up to 3% truffles.
• Pâté or Mousse de Foie Gras: Similar to parfait, with the
addition of chicken livers or unfattened duck livers.
– May contain as little as 50% foie gras.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved