Download Things You`ll Need:

Things You’ll Need:
 Tomato and Companion Plants
Step 1:
Select Some Tomato Varieties and Companion Plants and Get Busy - The following is a list of some of the best
tomato companions. Pick some based on available space and preferences and plant with tomatoes either in garden
beds or containers.
Asparagus - Tomato plants protect asparagus from asparagus beetles, and in turn, asparagus plants have a chemical
that has been shown to kill nematodes, a common cause of root ailments among tomatoes. Basil –Plant three basil
plants to every tomato.
Basil repels flies and mosquitoes. Don’t just plant one variety, but have fun in the garden and kitchen with varieties
like Cinnamon, Genovese, Italian, Red, Purple Lemon and Thai.
Borage - Deters tomato hornworms and cabbage worms. Generally after planting this annual once, it will self seed.
Carrots – As with other taproot plants carrots break up the soil and help water air and nutrients get deep into the soil.
Chives – Help to keep aphids and other general garden pests away.
Garlic - Repels red spider mites and is a great insecticide steeped in water. Just poke cloves one inch into the soil
around tomatoes. Once the green garlic is 6-8 inches tall it makes a great addition to tomato and other dishes. Chop
the green as well as the soft garlic clove for a great addition to tomato dishes and more. Lemon Balm – Is in the mint
family and is also a great pest deterrent for tomatoes.
Marigolds - Deter nematodes harmful to tomatoes as well as the tomato worm and general garden pests. French
marigolds work well planted in between tomato plants to deter aphids and other pests. Slugs love Marigolds so use
them as a border to any bed where slugs can be a problem.
Mint - Deters white cabbage moths, ants, rodents, flea beetles, fleas, and aphids. Mint is invasive so it helps to plant
it in a container even if it is buried in the garden. Keep mint away from parsley.
Nasturtiums – This flower makes a great barrier around the outside of any vegetable garden. Not only are they
beautiful, but they deter wooly aphids, whiteflies, squash bug, cucumber beetles and other pests. They do not need
fertilizer and will not compete with the vegetables for nutrients. Generally after planting once they will self seed.
Step 2:
Don't Forget the Parsley and Petunias! Parsley – Is a great companion for tomatoes both in the garden and kitchen. It
grows well next to carrots and chives, but keep it away from mint. Parsley has trouble in the heat so it may need to
be planted later or earlier than tomatoes depending on the climate zone.
Petunias – Are a wonderful ornamental companion for tomatoes. They repel the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers,
certain aphids, tomato worms, and general garden pests. For beautiful hanging baskets, cut a slit in several places in
hanging coco baskets and insert one cherry tomato and one purple petunia through each opening.
Step 3:
Avoid Some Plants – The following plants are best kept away from tomatoes to discourage infestation: Cabbage,
Cauliflower, Corn, Celery, Mature Dill, Potato, Pole Beans, Fennel, and Kohlrabi
Companion planting with herbs, vegetables and fruit trees.
Deter pests, encourage growth --all by knowing what loves
what! Easy organic gardening tip.
People who practice organic gardening / herb gardening often use companion planting and natural pest repellent
methods. Once you master companion planting, herb gardening takes on a whole new dimension. Basil loves
tomatoes, carrot loves tomato, and borage loves strawberries and tomatoes. These are examples of companion
planting in the vegetable and herb garden. Certain plants help each other thrive. Here is a brief list of herbs that are
often planted near vegetables and fruits to encourage growth, deter pests, and even improve your soil.
Herb Gardening for Companion Planting
Basil - Plant three basil plants to every tomato. Basil loves humans and animals, and would like to be your best
friend in the kitchen and on the patio since it repels flies and mosquitoes.
Borage - Helps strawberries to thrive. Assists tomatoes and squash. Borage loves bees (or bees love borage) and
attracts them to pollinate your garden.
Chamomile - Plant with onion and cabbage.
Chives - Plant near your carrots and apple trees. Chives steeped in water makes a great spray to kill powdery mildew
disease.
Dill - Plant near cabbage, lettuce, corn, and cucumber. Don't plant near fennel to avoid cross pollination.
Garlic - Plant near fruit trees and tomatoes. Repels red spider mites. Great insecticide steeped in water - see "Natural
and Organic Pest Control."
Geranium - Plant near corn and grapes. It's also effective against red spider mite.
Horseradish - Loves potatoes but spreads prolifically. Repels potato bugs.
Hyssop - Plant near cabbage and grapes.
Lemon Balm - Great for tomatoes.
Lovage - The garden sweetheart - It loves practically everything.
Marjoram - A close second to Lovage.
Mint - Plant near cabbage but never near parsley.
Nasturtium - Loves cole crops (collard, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower), fruit trees, and radishes. Great insect
repellent.
Oregano - Loves cole crops and grape vines. Insect repellent for cucumber beetle.
Parsley - Loves tomatoes, carrots, chives, and asparagus but cannot abide by mint.
Rosemary - Loves beans, carrots, cabbage and sage but not potatoes.
Rue - It is effective near strawberries and fig trees but never near basil. Plant it wherever you don't want cats to go.
Sage - Keeps company well with rosemary, cabbage and carrots but never with cucumbers.
Summer Savory - Has been seen in the company of onions and beans.
Tansy - Likes fruit trees.
Tarragon - Third to Lovage and Marjoram - likes almost everything.
Thyme - Keeps worms away from cabbage.
Herb Gardening to Enrich Your Soil
Valerian - Good in compost heaps and good for earthworms.
Caraway - Breaks down heavy soils because of its long roots.
Elderberry - Helps break down soil and compost. Dig it out and check out the black gold around its roots - rich
topsoil.
Comfrey - This herb is often used in compost and as organic fertilizer made into a compost tea. A great soil enricher.
COMPANION HERB PLANTING
Herb Companion and Effects
Anise
Basil
Beebalm
Borage
Caraway
Catnip
Chamomile
Grows well with coriander, and together they are a good deterrent
for snails and slugs.
Improves growth and flavor of tomatoes. Indoors repels houseflies.
Do not plant near Rue.
Also companion to tomatoes. Improves growth and flavor.
Companion to tomatoes, squash, and strawberries; deters tomato
worms; attracts bees.
Improves the growth and flavor of peas. Plant here and there loosens soil.
Plant in borders; deters flea beetles.
Companion to cabbage and onions. Improves growth and flavor.
Tea is good for plants as well as people.
Chervil
Companion to radishes; makes them hotter and crisper.
Chives
Loves to be near carrots, roses, and apples! Makes them grow and
taste better.
Comfrey
Dill
Fennel
Flax
Garlic
Horehound
Horseradish
Hyssop
Lavender
Lemon Balm
Lemon Verbena
Loveage
Marjoram
Mint
Nasturtium
Parsley
Rosemary
Rue
Sage
Santolina
Southernwood
Summer Savory
Thyme
Valerian
Yarrow
"Plant healer". Good garden barrier plant.
Helps corn, lettuce, cucumber, carrots, and tomatoes.
Plant this away from your garden - not friendly to anyone!
Protects potatoes against Colorado potato beetle. Also helps clay
soil.
Plant near roses and raspberries, and throughout the garden to
deter Japanese beetles
Repels grasshoppers. Improves fruit yield on tomatoes.
Plant at corner of potato patch to deter potato bug.
Companion to cabbage and grapes, deters cabbage moth; keep
away from radishes.
Butterflies and bees love it! Repels rabbits, mice, ticks, moths and
mosquitoes.
Plant with cucumbers and tomatoes.
Repels midgies, flies, and other pests.
Improves the health of all nearby plants. Invigorating to beans and
sweet peppers.
Companion to sweet peppers and sage.
Companion to tomatoes and cabbage; deters cabbage moths;
repels mice, and flies.
Companion to radishes, cabbage, and cucumbers. Repels aphids,
squash bugs, and striped pumpkin beetles.
Likes chives, tomatoes, carrots, roses, and asparagus.
Plant near cabbage, beans, carrots, sage; deters cabbage moths,
bean beetles, carrot flies,
Likes roses and raspberries, disliked by cats and dogs.
Incompatible with sage, basil and cabbage.
Good with tomatoes, carrots, cabbage, cabbage and rosemary.
Good with roses.
Companion to cabbage; deters cabbage moth.
Companion to onions and beans. Deters bean beetles.
Good for most other herbs and veggies; particularly eggplant and
cabbage.
Stimulates growth of all other plants and vegetables in the vicinity;
attracts earthworms.
Invigorating to cucumbers, corn, and other herbs, enhances
essential oil production.
ASPARAGUS
Companions: Basil, parsley, tomato.
Ally: Pot marigold deters beetles.
BEANS
Companions: Beet (to bush beans only), cabbage
family, carrot, celery, chard, corn, cucumber,
eggplant, pea, potatoes, radish, strawberry.
Enemies: Garlic, onion and shallot stunt the
growth of beans.
Allies: Marigold deters Mexican bean beetles.
Nasturtium and rosemary deter bean beetles.
Summer savory deters bean beetles, improves
growth and flavor.
BEETS
Companions: Bush beans, cabbage family,
Enemies: Pole beans and beets stunt each
lettuce, onion
Ally: Garlic improves growth and flavor.
other's growth.
CABBAGE FAMILY
(Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, kale and kohlrabi)
Companions: Beet, celery, chard, cucumber,
Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles, aphids.
lettuce, onion, potato, spinach.
Southernwood deters cabbage moth, improves
Allies: Chamomile and garlic improve growth and
growth and flavor.
flavor.
Tansy deters cabbageworm and cutworm.
Catnip, hyssop, rosemary and sage deter cabbage
Thyme deters cabbageworm.
moth.
Enemies: Kohlrabi and tomato stunt each other's
Dill improves growth and health.
growth.
Mint deters cabbage moth and ants, improves
health and flavor.
CARROTS
Companions: Bean, lettuce, onion, pea, pepper,
radish, tomato
Allies: Chives improve growth and flavor.
Rosemary and sage deter carrot fly.
Enemy: Dill retards growth.
CELERY
Companions: Bean, cabbage family and tomato
Allies: Chives and garlic deter aphids.
Nasturtium deters bugs and aphids.
CHARD
Companions: Bean, cabbage family and onion
CORN
Companions: Bean, cucumber, melon, parsley,
pea, potato, pumpkin, squash
Enemies: Tomatoes and corn are attacked by the
same worm.
Allies: Odorless marigold and white geranium
deter Japanese beetles.
Pigweed raises nutrients from the subsoil to where
the corn can reach them.
CUCUMBER
Companions: Bean, cabbage family, corn, pea,
radish, tomato
Enemy: Sage is generally injurious to cucumber.
Allies: Marigold deters beetles.
Nasturtium deters aphids, beetles and bugs,
improves growth and flavor.
Oregano deters pests in general.
Tansy deters ants, beetles, bugs, flying insects.
EGGPLANT
Companions: Bean, pepper
Allies: Marigold deters nematodes.
LETTUCE
Companions: Beet, cabbage family, carrot, onion,
radish, strawberry
Allies: Chives and garlic deter aphids.
MELONS
Allies: Marigold deters beetles.
Nasturtium deters bugs and beetles.
Oregano provides general pest protection
Companions: Corn, pumpkin, radish, squash
ONlONS
Companions: Beet, cabbage family, carrot, chard,
lettuce, pepper, strawberry, tomato
Enemies: Onions stunt bean, pea.
Allies: Chamomile and summer savory improve
growth and flavor.
Pigweed raises nutrients from subsoil and makes
them available to the onions.
Sow thistle improves growth and health.
PARSLEY
Companions: Asparagus, corn, tomato
PEAS
Allies: Chives deter aphids.
Mint improves health and flavor.
Enemies: Garlic and onion stunt the growth of
peas.
Companions: Bean, carrot, corn, cucumber,
radish, turnip
PEPPERS
Companions: Carrot, eggplant, onion and tomato
POTATOES
Companions: Beans, cabbage family, corn,
eggplant, pea
Enemies: Tomatoes and potatoes are attacked by
the same blight.
Allies: Horseradish, planted at the corners of the
potato patch, provides general protection.
Marigold deters beetles.
PUMPKINS
Allies: Marigold deters beetles.
Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles.
Oregano provides general pest protection.
Companions: Corn, melon, squash
RADISHES
Companions: Bean, carrot, cucumber, lettuce,
melon, pea
Allies: Chervil and nasturtium improve growth and
flavor.
Enemy: Hyssop
SPINACH
Companions: Cabbage family, strawberry
SQUASH
Companions: Corn, melon, pumpkin
Allies: Borage deters worms, improves growth
and flavor.
Marigold deters beetles.
Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles.
Oregano provides general pest protection.
STRAWBERRY
Companions: Bean, lettuce, onion, spinach,
thyme
Enemy: Cabbage
Allies: Borage strengthens resistance to insects
and disease.
Thyme, as a border, deters worms.
TOMATOES
Companions: Asparagus, carrot, celery,
cucumber, onion, parsley, pepper
Enemies: Corn and tomato are attacked by the
same worm.
Mature dill retards tomato growth.
Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth.
Potatoes and tomatoes are attacked by the same
blight.
Allies: Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves
growth and flavor.
Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and
flavor.
Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth and
flavor.
Dill, until mature, improves growth and health.
Once mature, it stunts tomato growth.
Marigold deters nematodes.
Pot marigold deters tomato worm and general
garden pests,
TURNIPS
Companion: Pea
Abstract
Companion planting is based on the idea that certain plants can benefit others when planted in near proximity. The
scientific and traditional bases for these plant associations are discussed. A companion planting chart for common
herbs, vegetables, and flowers is provided, as is a listing of literature resources for traditional companion planting.
An appendix provides history, plant varieties, and planting designs for the Three Sisters, a traditional Native
American companion planting practice.
Table of Contents






Traditional Companion Planting
Companion Planting Chart
The Scientific Foundations for Companion Planting
Options for System Design
References
Appendix: Ancient Companions
Traditional Companion Planting
Companion planting can be described as the establishment of two or more plant species in close proximity so that
some cultural benefit (pest control, higher yield, etc.) is derived. The concept embraces a number of strategies that
increase the biodiversity of agroecosystems.
Generally, companion planting is thought of as a small-scale gardening practice. However, in this discussion the
term is applied in its broadest sense to include applications to commercial horticultural and agronomic crops.
ATTRA has another publication, Intercropping Principles and Production Practices, that provides additional
information on larger-scale applications.
While companion planting has a long history, the mechanisms of beneficial plant interaction have not always been
well understood. Traditional recommendations (see summary chart provided as Table 1) used by gardeners have
evolved from an interesting combination of historical observation, horticultural science, and a few unconventional
sources. For example, some of the recommendations for companion planting, made around the middle of this
century, were based on the results of sensitive crystallization tests (1).
Originally developed by Dr. Ehrenfried Pfeiffer, sensitive crystallization testing entails the mixing of plant extracts
with select salt reagents like sodium sulfate or copper chloride. The resulting solution is placed in a controlled
environment chamber and allowed to evaporate slowly. The process results in a precipitate that often takes on
beautiful geometric forms and patterns. The characteristics of the pattern are studied and interpreted to establish
whether the plants are likely to interact well with each other (1). Sensitive crystallization appeals to practitioners of
Biodynamics™ (BD) and others who take a more metaphysical approach to nature. Conventional science is much
more skeptical of this process as a means to evaluate plant associations.
Table 1. COMPANION PLANTING CHART FOR HOME & MARKET GARDENING (compiled from
traditional literature on companion planting)
CROP
COMPANIONS
INCOMPATIBLE
Asparagus
Tomato, Parsley, Basil
Beans
Most Vegetables & Herbs
Irish Potato, Cucumber, Corn, Strawberry,
Beans, Bush
Onion
Celery, Summer Savory
Beans, Pole
Corn, Summer Savory, Radish
Onion, Beets, Kohlrabi, Sunflower
Aromatic Herbs, Celery, Beets, Onion Family,
Dill, Strawberries, Pole Beans,
Cabbage Family
Chamomile, Spinach, Chard
Tomato
English Pea, Lettuce, Rosemary, Onion Family,
Carrots
Dill
Sage, Tomato
Onion & Cabbage Families, Tomato, Bush Beans,
Celery
Nasturtium
Irish Potato, Beans, English Pea, Pumpkin,
Corn
Tomato
Cucumber, Squash
Cucumber
Beans, Corn, English Pea, Sunflowers, Radish
Irish Potato, Aromatic Herbs
Eggplant
Beans, Marigold
Lettuce
Carrot, Radish, Strawberry, Cucumber
Beets, Carrot, Lettuce, Cabbage Family, Summer
Onion Family
Beans, English Peas
Savory
Parsley
Tomato, Asparagus
Pea, English
Carrots, Radish, Turnip, Cucumber, Corn, Beans Onion Family, Gladiolus, Irish
Potato, Irish
Pumpkins
Radish
Spinach
Squash
Tomato
Turnip
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Potato
Pumpkin, Squash, Tomato,
Cucumber, Sunflower
Irish Potato
Hyssop
Beans, Corn, Cabbage Family, Marigolds,
Horseradish
Corn, Marigold
English Pea, Nasturtium, Lettuce, Cucumber
Strawberry, Faba Bean
Nasturtium, Corn, Marigold
Irish Potato
Onion Family, Nasturtium, Marigold, Asparagus,
Irish Potato, Fennel, Cabbage Family
Carrot, Parsley, Cucumber
English Pea
Irish Potato
The Scientific Foundations for Companion Planting
While conventional agriculturalists and BD practitioners may disagree over the validity of sensitive crystallization
research, there is general agreement today on the validity of several mechanisms that create beneficial plant
associations:
Trap Cropping
Sometimes, a neighboring crop may be selected because it is more attractive to pests and serves to distract them
from the main crop. An excellent example of this is the use of collards to draw the diamond back moth away from
cabbage (2).
Symbiotic Nitrogen Fixation
Legumes—such as peas, beans, and clover—have the ability to fix atmospheric nitrogen for their own use and for
the benefit of neighboring plants via symbiotic relationship with Rhizobium bacteria. Forage legumes, for example,
are commonly seeded with grasses to reduce the need for nitrogen fertilizer. Likewise, beans are sometimes
interplanted with corn. On request ATTRA can provide additional information on Rhizobium inoculation.
Biochemical Pest Suppression
Some plants exude chemicals from roots or aerial parts that suppress or repel pests and protect neighboring plants.
The African marigold, for example, releases thiopene—a nematode repellent—making it a good companion for a
number of garden crops. The manufacture and release of certain biochemicals is also a factor in plant antagonism.
Allelochemicals such as juglone—found in black walnut—suppress the growth of a wide range of other plants,
which often creates a problem in home horticulture. A positive use of plant allelopathy is the use of mow-killed
grain rye as a mulch. The allelochemicals that leach from rye residue prevent weed germination but do not harm
transplanted tomatoes, broccoli, or many other vegetables.
Physical Spatial Interactions
For example, tall-growing, sun-loving plants may share space with lower-growing, shade-tolerant species, resulting
in higher total yields from the land. Spatial interaction can also yield pest control benefits. The diverse canopy
resulting when corn is companion-planted with squash or pumpkins is believed to disorient the adult squash vine
borer and protect the vining crop from this damaging pest. In turn, the presence of the prickly vines is said to
discourage raccoons from ravaging the sweet corn.
Nurse Cropping
Tall or dense-canopied plants may protect more vulnerable species through shading or by providing a windbreak.
Nurse crops such as oats have long been used to help establish alfalfa and other forages by supplanting the more
competitive weeds that would otherwise grow in their place. In many instances, nurse cropping is simply another
form of physical-spatial interaction.
Beneficial Habitats
Beneficial habitats—sometimes called refugia—are another type of companion plant interaction that has drawn
considerable attention in recent years. The benefit is derived when companion plants provide a desirable
environment for beneficial insects and other arthropods—especially those predatory and parasitic species which help
to keep pest populations in check. Predators include ladybird beetles, lacewings, hover flies, mantids, robber flies,
and non-insects such as spiders and predatory mites. Parasites include a wide range of fly and wasp species
including tachinid flies, and Trichogramma and ichneumonid wasps. Agroecologists believe that by developing
systems to include habitats that draw and sustain beneficial insects, the twin objectives of reducing both pest damage
and pesticide use can be attained. For detailed information on establishing beneficial habitats, request the ATTRA
publication Farmscaping to Enhance Biological Control.
Security Through Diversity
A more general mixing of various crops and varieties provides a degree of security to the grower. If pests or adverse
conditions reduce or destroy a single crop or cultivar, others remain to produce some level of yield. Furthermore, the
simple mixing of cultivars, as demonstrated with broccoli in University of California research, can reduce aphid
infestation in a crop (3).
Back to top
Options For System Design
Agronomists use the term "intercropping" to describe the spatial arrangements of companion planting systems.
Intercropping systems range from mixed intercropping to large-scale strip intercropping. Mixed intercropping is
commonly seen in traditional gardens where two or more crops are grown together without a distinct row formation.
Strip intercropping is designed with two or more crops grown together in distinct rows to allow for mechanical crop
production. No-till planting or transplanting into standing cover crops can be considered another form of
intercropping. For more information on no-till planting, request the ATTRA publication Conservation Tillage.
Related ATTRA publications
 Intercropping Principles and Production Practices
 Farmscaping to Enhance Biological Control
 Introduction to Permaculture
 Biodynamic Farming & Compost Preparation
 Conservation Tillage
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References
1) Philbrick, Helen and Richard Gregg. 1966. Companion Plants & How To Use Them. The Devin-Adair Co., Old
Greenwich, CT. 113 p.
2) Boucher, Jude. 2000. Setting a Trap. American Vegetable Grower. January. p. 20, 22.
3) Daar, S. 1988. Mixing Broccoli Cultivars Reduces Cabbage Aphids. IPM Practitioner. May. p. 12.
Back to top
Resources
Traditional Companion Planting
Bob Flowerdew's Complete Book of Companion Gardening. 1995. By Bob Flowerdew. Kyle Cathie, London, GB.
176 p.
Available online from:
Trafalgar Square Books for $24.95 plus $5 shipping and handling
http://www.trafalgarsquarebooks.com
Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening, 2nd edition. 1998. By Louise
Riotte. Storey Communications, Pownal, VT. 226 p.
Available for $15 plus $3 p&h from:
Acres USA
P.O. Box 91299
Austin, TX 78709
800-355-5313
512-892-4448 Fax
Email: [email protected]
Companion Plants and How To Use Them. 1966. By H. Philbrick and R. Gregg. Devin-Adair Publishers, Old
Greenwich, CT. 113 p.
Available for $9.95 plus $4.50 p&h from:
Bio-Dynamic Farming and Gardening Association, Inc.
Building 1002B, Thoreau Center
The Presidio
P.O. Box 29135
San Francisco, CA 94129-0135
888-516-7797
415-561-7796 Fax
Email: [email protected] website: http://www.biodynamics.com
Great Garden Companions: A Companion-Planting System for a Beautiful, Chemical-Free Vegetable Garden. 1998.
By Sally Jean Cunningham. Rodale Press, Emmaus, PA. 278 pages.
Available for $13.56 plus $4.48 shipping and handling from:
Amazon Books http://www.amazon.com
How To Grow More Vegetables Than You Ever Thought Possible On Less Land Than You Can Imagine, 5th
edition. 1995. By John Jeavons. Ten Speed Press, Berkeley, CA. 228 p.
Contains an extensive companion planting chart.
Available for $16.95 plus $4.50 p&h from:
Bountiful Gardens
18001 Shafer Ranch Rd.
Willits, CA 95490-9626
707-459-6410
J. Howard Garret's Organic Manual. 1993. By J. Howard Garret. Lantana Publishing Co., Dallas, TX. 203 p.
A fine general guide on organic growing that features a brief table of companion herbs
and the pests they repel on page 48. Available for $18 plus $3 p&h from:
Acres USA
P.O. Box 91299
Austin, TX 78709
800-355-5313
512-892-4448 Fax
Email: [email protected]
Raising With The Moon: The Complete Guide to Gardening and Living by the Signs of the Moon. 1993. By Pyle &
Reese. Down Home Press, Asheboro, NC. 147 p.
Contains both companion planting charts and a listing of insect repellent plants.
Available for $14 plus $3 p&h from:
Acres USA
P.O. Box 91299
Austin, TX 78709
800-355-5313
512-892-4448 Fax
Email: [email protected]
Rodale's Successful Organic Gardening: Companion Planting. 1994. By McClure and Roth. Rodale Press, Emmaus,
PA. 160 p.
Available for $14.95 plus $4.50 p&h from:
Bountiful Gardens
18001 Shafer Ranch Rd.
Willits, CA 95490-9626
707-459-6410
Roses Love Garlic: Companion Planting and Other Secrets of Flowers. 1998. By Louise Riotte. Storey
Communications, Pownal, VT. 240 p.
Available for $ 11.96 plus $4.48 shipping and handling from:
Amazon Books http://www.amazon.com
Beneficial Habitats
To avoid redundancy in our publications, anyone seeking further information on beneficial habitats is encouraged to
request ATTRA's publication titled Farmscaping to Enhance Biological Control. This publication also provides
additional references for further research. Other ATTRA publications that might be helpful for designing and
managing beneficial habitats include Biointensive Integrated Pest Management and Overview of Cover Crops and
Green Manures.
Intercropping Research
ATTRA's Intercropping Principles and Production Practices and Farmscaping to Enhance Biological Control
publications are good sources for basic information on intercropping. The following publications should prove
useful.
Border effects on yields in a strip-intercropped soybean, corn, and wheat production system. 1996. By T.K.
Iragavarapu and G.W. Randall. Journal of Production Agriculture. Vol. 9, No. 1. p. 101-107.
Provides a nice literature review of research to that time on intercropping, highlighting
the multitude of factors causing variability in results.
Multiple Cropping. 1976. ASA Special Publication No. 27. American Society of Agronomy, 677 So. Segoe Rd.,
Madison, WI. 378 p.
"Strip intercropping for biological control." 1993. By Joel Grossman and William Quarles. The IPM Practitioner.
April. p. 1-11.
An excellent synopsis of intercropping. The IPM Practitioner, published 10 times per
year, is a benefit of membership in the Bio-Integral Resource Center (BIRC). Annual
membership for individuals costs $35. Contact:
BIRC
P.O. Box 7414
Berkeley, CA 94707
510-524-2567
Back to top
An Appendix to Companion Planting:
Basic Concepts & Resouces—Ancient Companions
By Mardi Dodson
Contents







Introduction
Corn
Beans
Squash
Cultivation and Planting Designs
Summary
References
Introduction
For centuries, many Native American tribes throughout North America have cultivated corn,
beans, and squash. The term "Three Sisters" was primarily used by the Iroquois who live in
the Northeastern United States and Canada. These crops were considered to be special gifts
from Great Spirit and were believed to be protected by the Three Sisters—spirits collectively
called the De-o-ha-ko, meaning "our sustainers" or "those who support us" (1).
The Legend of the Three Sisters
The term “Three Sisters” emerged from the Iroquois creation myth. It
was said that the earth began when “Sky Woman” who lived in the
upper world peered through a hole in the sky and fell through to an
endless sea. The animals saw her coming, so they took the soil from the
bottom of the sea and spread it onto the back of a giant turtle to provide
a safe place for her to land. This “Turtle Island” is now what we call
North America.
Sky woman had become pregnant before she fell. When she landed, she
gave birth to a daughter. When the daughter grew into a young woman,
she also became pregnant (by the West wind). She died while giving
birth to twin boys. Sky Woman buried her daughter in the “new earth.”
From her grave grew three sacred plants—corn, beans, and squash.
These plants provided food for her sons, and later, for all of humanity.
These special gifts ensured the survival of the Iroquois people. (2)
This ancient style of companion planting has played a key role in the survival of all people in
North America. Grown together these crops are able to thrive and provide high-yield, highquality crops with a minimal environmental impact. Corn, beans, and squash have a unique
symbiotic relationship in a Native American garden. Corn offers a structure for the beans to
climb. The beans, in turn, help to replenish the soil with nutrients. And the large leaves of
squash and pumpkin vines provide living mulch that conserves water and provides weed
control.
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Corn
Corn is considered the most important of all Native American crops. Originating in South
America and Mexico, corn was introduced during the Mississippian Period (600 A.D. to 1450
A.D.) to North American tribes via an intricate series of trade networks. Corn, beans, and
squash combine to create a nearly perfect meal loaded with essential vitamins and minerals
(2). In addition to its nutritional values, all Native American tribes that grew corn
considered it a sacred and spiritually valuable plant.
Varieties
Choosing the right varieties of corn is essential to the success of a Three Sisters garden.
The tall, sturdy heirloom varieties work best because they are most capable of supporting
the beans. There are a number of Native American heirloom corn varieties to choose from.
Traditionally, most of the corn grown by Native Americans is dry field corn, which is used in
flour production. Dry field corn is harvested late in the season when the ears have dried on
the stalk.
Dry field corn is divided into three categories, dent, flint, and flour corns. Dent corns are
adapted best to the Southeast and the Midwest. Dent corn has a distinctive dimple-like dent
on top of the kernel when it is fully dried. A dent corn that grows well most anywhere in the
United States is the Cherokee Blue and White of the Southeast. Reid's Yellow Dent is
also widely adapted. Bloody Butcher produces blood-red ears of corn on stalks that can
reach from 10 to 12 feet (2, 3).
Flint corn grows best in the northern plains region. The kernels of flint corn do not shrink
when they are dry. A popular flint corn is Indian Ornamental with colors ranging from
purple to yellow. Two popular flint corn varieties are Fiesta and Little Jewels. Little
Jewels is a unique, "mini" ornamental with four-inch-long, multi-colored ears and purple
husks (3).
Flour corns usually have thinner-shelled kernels filled with soft white starch. Flour corns
were developed in the arid Southwest. They are less likely to succeed in cooler northern
regions with short growing seasons and in moist, humid areas where they are susceptible to
a fatal rust disease. Hopi Pink is a short, drought-resistant corn, with kernels that range in
color from cranberry to light pink. This variety has plump, thin-shelled kernels that grind
easily into fine flour. A flour corn that works well in northern gardens is Mandan Bride.
This variety is also drought-tolerant, with red, blue, yellow, pink, and purple spotted kernels
(3).
Corn can be harvested earlier in the season when it is still "green corn." Green corn is
harvested when the corn is still in the "milk" stage, when the kernels are at their sweetest
and can be eaten fresh. Varieties that are sweet when young are Blue Clarage, Bloody
Butcher, and Black Mexican/Iroquois. Flour corns are usually not eaten in the green
corn stage. Two exceptions to this rule are Anasazi and Mandan Red. (3). See Table 1.
Table 1: Colorful Corn Varieties
Can Be
Variety
Type
Color
Comments
Eaten Fresh
Ancient Southwestern variety,
Anasazi
Flour
Multi
Yes
drought-tolerant
Beasley's Red Dent
Dent
Red
Heirloom from Indiana
Smaller variety from the
Black Mexican/Iroquois Sweet Blue-Black
Yes
Northeast
Blue, Black,
Originated from southern
Black Aztec
Sweet
Yes
Purple
Mexico
Northeastern United States,
Bloody Butcher
Dent
Red
Yes
Virginia area
Blue Clarage
Dent
Blue
Yes
Ohio/West Virginia
BronzeBronze-Orange
Sweet
Yes
Selected by Dr. Alan Kapuler
Orange
Cherokee Blue & White
Dent
Cherokee White
Fiesta
Flour
Flint
Blue and
White
White
Multi
Hopi Pink
Flour
Pink
Hickory King
Flour
Yellow
Indian Ornamental
Flint
Multi
Little Jewels
Flint
Multi
Mandan Bride
Flour
Mandan Red
Flour
Multi
ReddishBlack
Oaxaca Green
Dent
Green
Sweet
Flour
Sweet
Multi
Multi
Yellow
Flour
White
Rainbow Inca
Rainbow Indian
Texas Honey June
Tuscadorea/Iroquois
White
*Adapted from Amazing
Back to top
Yes
Grown throughout North
America
Grows 12-15 ft. tall
Developed in New Hampshire
Short, drought-tolerant,
Southwestern variety
12 ft. tall heirloom
Widely grown by North
American Indians
4-inch long corn developed in
New Hampshire
Originated from Mandan tribe
Yes
Developed in Washington
Yes
Southern Mexico, makes green
flour
Developed by Dr. Alan Kapuler
Developed by Dr. Alan Kapuler
Heirloom, sturdy 7-8 ft. stalks
Yes
Tall, Iroquois variety
Maize! Cultivate Colorful Corns by Eric Rosenthal (3).
Beans
Beans provide a high-quality protein food source that combines well nutritionally with corn.
Beans also play a valuable role in the Three Sisters garden. Through a symbiotic
relationship with rhizobium bacteria, beans help to take nitrogen from the air and convert it
into a usable form for next year's crop.
Varieties
Pole beans are best adapted to directly climb the corn stalk as opposed to sending runners
across the ground. The Scarlet Runner variety is a popular heirloom pole bean that is
famous for its large clusters of bright red flowers. Genuine Cornfield consistently produces
in the heat of Southern summers. True Cranberry, a dark red bean with a meaty texture
and a nutty chestnut-like flavor, also performs well in the South and in the Northeast.
Cornfield, unrelated to Genuine Cornfield, does well in the Pacific Northwest because it
matures before the fall rains come. A favorite in the arid Southwest is Hopi Purple, a
purple bean with black crescent moon stripes (2).
Back to top
Squash
Growing low to the ground, squash and pumpkin serve as living mulch. The large leaves
block out much of the sunlight, thus reducing weed seed germination. Allelopathy may be
an additional factor in weed suppression (4). (Allelopathy refers to chemical secretions from
a plant which have adverse or phytotoxic effects on some weed species).
Varieties
Most any variety of squash will work in a Three Sisters garden. In addition to the
contemporary hybrid varieties, there are still some traditional varieties available. In the
Northeast, the Penobscot and Abenaki still grow Long Pie (a.k.a. Indian or Golden
Oblong) pumpkin. This pumpkin looks like a fat zucchini with the texture of a pumpkin. It
has a long storage life and usually doesn't turn orange until after it is harvested. A diseaseresistant variety suited for the Southeast is the Connecticut Field. This very vigorous
Native American heirloom yields large, bright orange pumpkins. Mayo Blusher is a very
sweet, pale gray pumpkin that blushes pink when ripe. Cushaw is a gourd-like squash that
has been grown in the Southwest by the Pueblo Indians for storage containers since preColumbian times. Other varieties of squash also grow well in the Southwest depending on
the amount of moisture available (2).
Back to top
Cultivation and Planting Designs
Planting designs and cultivation practices vary according to climatic region.
Garden styles were developed mainly out of practical considerations, such
as moisture availability, climate, and the length of the growing season. The
Wampanoag garden style works well east of the Mississippi. Hidatsa
gardens were developed to thrive in the climate of the northern Plains,
while the Zuni waffle garden was designed to conserve water in the arid
Southwestern climate.
Wampanoag Three Sisters Garden
Figure 1:
Circular
Wampanoag
Garden
Drawing by
Mardi Dodson
Concept taken
from Native
American
Gardening
by Michael J.
Caduto and
Joseph
Bruchac
It was the Wampanoag gardens that enabled the early settlers of
Jamestown to survive and thrive in the New World. Squanto was a
Wampanoag who "taught the newcomers to plant maize in little hills and
fertilize each mound with an alewife, a species of fish" (5). With this
efficient and intensive gardening style, each family could sustain their
needs on about one acre of land. Many of the tribes of the Northeast,
including the Iroquois, used the Wampanoag garden design. Planted
without plowing or tilling, the traditional Wampanoag garden includes corn, beans, squash,
and sunflowers. The corn and beans are planted in mounds, with squash planted between
the mounds.
The sunflowers are planted along the north edge of the garden, so that
they do not cast a shadow on the other crops (see Figure 1). When the
sunflowers have bloomed and the squash and beans have flowered, the
Wampanoag Three Sisters garden becomes a stunning cluster of red,
yellow, and white flowers against a textured backdrop of shimmering
greens.
First, the raised corn and bean mounds must be constructed. These small
mounds are laid out in rows with 4 feet between the centers of the mounds
(see Figure 1). Each mound is about 4 inches high, with a wide base
(about 18 inches in diameter) that narrows to a flattened top (about 10
inches across). To conserve moisture, a depression with a lip may be
formed at the top of each mound (6). The finished mounds have a
remarkable resemblance to miniature moon craters.
When the mounds are ready, plant four corn seeds about 6 inches apart
and 3 inches deep in the top of each mound. Once the corn has grown to a
height of 4 inches or more, plant four beans seeds halfway down the
slopes on the sides of each mound (see Figure 2). Allow the bean vines to
entwine themselves around the cornstalks for support. The bean vines may
be pruned if they get too aggressive (6).
Squash seedlings are planted at the same time as the beans. Construct
rounded mounds 3 inches high and about 1 foot across at the base. The
squash mounds are staggered between the mounds of corn and beans (see
Figure 1). Traditionally, four seedlings are planted in the top of each
mound.
The seedlings are arranged to represent each of the four sacred directions
(see Figure 3). Both winter and summer varieties are planted, including
pumpkins, acorn squash, and summer crookneck squash (6). Sunflower
seeds are planted at the same time as the corn. The smaller-flowering
common sunflower, Helianthus annus, is traditionally grown in a
Wampanoag Three Sisters garden. The sunflower mounds are located at
the north edge of the garden (see Figure 1). The mounds are spaced about
three feet apart from center, with three seeds planted (one seed per hole)
atop each mound. The sunflowers seeds are traditionally harvested after
the first frost (6).
Corn is planted
six inches
apart in the
flat top of the
mound. Beans
are planted
halfway down
the slopes on
the sides of
the mound.
Figure 2:
Wampanoag
Corn and Bean
Mound
Drawing by
Mardi Dodson
Concept taken
from Native
American
Gardening
Figure
3:
by Michael J.
Wampanoag
Caduto and
Squash
Mound
Joseph by
Drawing
Bruchac
Mardi
Dodson
Concept taken
from Native
American
Gardening
by Michael J.
Caduto and
Joseph
Bruchac
Hidatsa Gardens
In the northern plains, the Hidatsa, Mandan, and Arikara peoples gardened
along the floodplain of the Missouri River in what is now called North
Dakota. Most of the tribes in this region used the Hidatsa garden design
(see Figure 4).
Hidatsa gardens are designed to have alternating, staggered rows of corn
and beans, with sunflowers growing along the north edge of the garden.
Squash is planted after every fourth row of corn and beans and around the
east, south, and west edges of the garden (6).
Sunflowers are planted as soon as the threat of frost has passed. As in the
Wampanoag garden, three sunflower seeds are planted in small mounds 3
feet apart along the north edge of the garden. The Hidatsa garden differs
from the Wampanoag garden when it comes to seed arrangement—all
three seeds are planted in one hole. Hidatsa varieties of sunflower produce
black, red, white, and striped seeds (6).
Plant squash indoors in peat pots or seed flats when the sunflowers are
planted in the garden. Before planting in the garden, prepare the squash
mounds (about 15 inches across at the base), with 4 feet between the
centers of the mounds. The squash mounds are located along the east,
west, and south edges of the garden in alignment with the rows of beans
(see Figure 4). Squash seedlings are usually transplanted when they are
about 4 inches tall and have put on their first set of true leaves (about two
weeks after the corn is planted). To protect them from the heavy spring
rains, four seedlings are planted on the sides of the mound in sets of two,
12 inches apart (see Figure 5) (6).
In the Hidatsa garden, there are usually four corn mounds per row of corn.
Note that the rows of corn are in alignment but are staggered in
comparison to the beans (see Figure 4). Hidatsa corn mounds are
constructed in the same way as the Wampanoag corn and beans mound.
The differences are that only corn is planted in these mounds and eight
seeds, instead of four, are planted in the top of each mound (see Figure 7
). Growing corn together in bunches offers extra support and protection
from wind and rain damage.
Hidatsa flint corn is planted in May in North Dakota when the leaves of the
Gooseberry shrubs have emerged and fully formed. Corn is planted a week
or two after the sunflowers have been planted. This flint corn is a semiarid
variety with a growing season of about 70 days. It is advisable to research
which corn variety works best for your zone and climatic conditions (7).
Beans are planted at the same time as corn. In a Hidatsa garden, beans
are planted separately from the corn in their own mounds. The bean
mounds are located between the rows of corn in a staggered, alternating
pattern (see Figure 4). The mounds are rounded ovals, about 4 inches tall
by 7 inches wide by 14 inches long. Traditionally, two people worked
together to plant beans. The first person made six holes in the southfacing slope of the bean mound.
Figure 4:
Hidatsa Garden
Design
Drawing by
Mardi Dodson
Concept taken
from Native
American
Gardening
by Michael J.
Caduto and
Joseph
Bruchac
Figure 5:
Hidatsa
Squash Mound
Drawing by
Mardi Dodson
Concept taken
from Native
American
Gardening
by Michael J.
Caduto
Bean
seeds
and are
Joseph on the
planted
Bruchac
south-facing
slope of the
mound. One
seed is planted
per hole, with
a total of six
seeds planted
in each
mound.
Figure 6:
Hidatsa Bean
Mound
Drawing by
Mardi Dodson
Concept taken
from Native
American
Gardening
by Michael J.
Caduto and
Joseph
Bruchac
This is done in one swift motion by thrusting both hands into the soil with
the thumb and first two fingers extended to make two sets of holes spaced
6 inches apart (see Figure 6). The second person follows behind and plants
one seed in each hole. A total of six seeds are planted in each bean mound
(7).
In a Hidatsa
garden, eight
seeds are
planted atop
each mound.
Zuni Waffle Garden
Figure 7:
The Zuni live in the Four Corners area of the Southwestern United States.
Hidatsa Corn
This arid climate at altitudes over 7,000 feet makes gardening a special
Mound
challenge. The Wampanoag and Hidatsa garden designs use raised mounds Drawing by
to keep the root systems from being waterlogged. In contrast, the focus of Mardi Dodson
this garden is water conservation. The waffles are about 12 feet by 12 feet. Concept taken
Each individual square is indented and surrounded by a high rim. In each
from Native
square, a single crop or combinations of crops may be planted (see Figure
American
8). This garden design will work anywhere in the country where dry
Gardening
summer conditions are experienced.
by Michael J.
Traditionally, the crops are planted intensively with five to eight corn seeds Caduto and
in each hole to create clumps of corn similar to those in the Hidatsa
Figure
Joseph 8: Zuni
garden. Corn seeds are planted 4-8 inches deep in light sandy soils and
Waffle
Garden
Bruchac
about 4 inches deep or less in heavier clay soil. Beans and squash have the Drawing by
same planting depths and spacing requirements as corn (8). The same
Mardi Dodson
number of beans (4-8 seeds) are planted around each clump of corn, one
seed per hole. Only one or two squash plantings (4-8 seeds in each hole) are added to each
waffle (see Figure 8) (3). As with the other two designs, sunflowers may also be planted
along the edges of the Zuni Waffle garden. Helianthus maximilianii, a small sunflower with
flower heads about 3 inches wide, is most commonly grown in the Southwest (9).
Back to top
Summary
Native American tribes of North America have made enormous contributions to the foods we
eat today. The dynamic trio known as the Three Sisters not only thrive when they are
planted together, they offer a well- balanced, nutritious meal. Over the centuries, many
plant varieties and gardening styles were developed for each major climatic region. The
Wampanoag (Northeast and South), Hidatsa (Plains), and Zuni waffle garden (Southwest)
offer a range of gardening styles to accommodate most growing conditions found in North
America.
Corn, beans, and squash have a unique symbiotic relationship in a Native American garden.
Corn offers a structure for the beans to climb. The beans, in turn, help to replenish the soil
with nutrients. And the large leaves of squash and pumpkin vines provide living mulch that
conserves water and provides weed control. This ancient style of companion planting has
played a key role in the survival of all people in North America. Grown together these crops
are able to thrive and provide high-yield, high-quality crops with a minimal environmental
impact.
http://attra.ncat.org/new_pubs/attra-pub/complant.html?id=Kansas
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_companion_plants#Vegetables
BASIL: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor and to repel flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant
near rue.
BAY LEAF: A fresh leaf bay leaf in each storage container of beans or grains will deter weevils and
moths. Sprinkle with other deterrent herbs in garden as natural insecticide dust.
BEE BALM (Oswego): Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor.
BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash and strawberries. Deters tomato worms.
CARAWAY: Good for loosening compacted soil.
CATNIP: Deters flea beetles.
CAMOMILE: Improves flavor of cabbages and onions.
CHERVIL: Companion to radishes for improved growth and flavor.
CHIVES: Improves growth and flavor of carrots.
DILL: Improves growth and health of cabbage. Do not plant near carrots.
FENNEL: Most plants dislike it. Plant to itself.
FLAX: Plant with carrots, and potatoes.
GARLIC: Plant near roses to repel aphids.
GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.
HORSERADISH: Plant in potato patch to keep away potato bugs.
HYSSOP: Companion plant to cabbage and grapes, deters cabbage moths. Do not plant near radishes.
KELP: When used in a powder mixture or tea spray, this versatile sea herb will not only repel insects but
feed the vegetables.
LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture.
LOVAGE: Improves flavor and health of most plants.
MARIGOLDS (Calendula): The workhorse of pest deterrents. Keeps soil free of nematodes; discourages
many insects. Plant freely throughout the garden.
MARJORAM: Improves flavor of all vegetables.
MINT: Deters white cabbage moths, and improves the health of cabbage and tomatoes.
MOLE PLANTS: Deter moles and mice if planted here and there throughout the garden.
NASTURTIUMS: Plant with tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Deters
aphids and pests of curcurbit family.
PARSLEY: Plant and sprinkle on tomatoes, and asparagus.
PEPPERMINT: Repels white cabbage moths.
PETUNIAS: Remember mom or grandma planting these? She had good reason, even though she may
have only planted them for tradition's sake. They repel the asparagus beetle, tomato worm and general
garden pests. Also, a good companion to tomatoes, but plant everywhere.
PURSLANE: This edible weed makes good ground cover in the corn. Use the stems, leaves and seeds in
stirfrys. Pickle the green seed pod for capers.
ROSEMARY: Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean
beetles, and carrot flies.
RUE: Deters Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries.
SAGE: Companion plant with rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, carrot
flies. Do not plant near cucumbers.
SOUTHERNWOOD: Plant with cabbage, and here and there in the garden.
SUMMER SAVORY: Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and flavor. Discourages cabbage
moths.
TANSY: Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries. Deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped
cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and ants.
TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one.
THYME: Deters cabbage worms.
VALERIAN: Good anywhere in the garden, as a powder.
WORMWOOD: Keeps animals out of the garden when planted as a border.
Using Herbs to Deter Insect Pests
Herbs work especially well as companion plants. They multitask by attracting beneficial insects and repelling pest
insects and their fragrance and foliage make them good companions in both the vegetable garden and the ornamental
border. The following list is compiled from experience and other people’s suggestions. Keep in mind that some
things work in conjunction with other factors in the environment and your results might not be the same as mine.
However with some tweaking here and there, you should be able to use plants to keep a better balance in your
gardens.
Using Herbs As Companion Plants to Deter Pests
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Aphids - Chives, Coriander, Nasturtium
Ants - Tansy
Asparagus Beetle - Pot Marigold
Bean Beetle - Marigold, Nasturtium, Rosemary
Cabbage Moth - Hyssop, Mint (also clothes moths), Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Southernwood, Tansy,
Thyme
Carrot Fly - Rosemary, Sage
Flea Beetle - Catmint (Contains nepetalactone, an insect repellent.
Steep in water and spray on plants.), Mint
Flies - Basil, Rue
Fruit Tree Moths - Southernwood
Japanese Beetles - Garlic & Rue (When used near roses and raspberries), Tansy
Potato Bugs - Horseradish
Mosquitoes - Basil, Rosemary
Moths - Santolina
Nematodes - Marigold (Marigolds should be established for at least 1 year before their nematode deterring
properties will take effect.)
Savory, Winter - Some insect repelling qualities
Squash Bugs & Beetles - Nasturtium, Tansy
Ticks - Lavender (Also thought to repel mice and moths.)
Tomato Horn Worm - Borage, Pot Marigold