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Ocean Movements
Ocean Movements

... Incoming crests catch up to slower crests ahead Smaller crest-crest wavelength Waves become higher, steeper, and unstable The crests collapse forward ...
Waves and Tsunami - University of Hawaii at Hilo
Waves and Tsunami - University of Hawaii at Hilo

... Steepness = height/length. Waves get steeper as they “feel” the bottom of the ocean, top continues to move forward, base is caught up in the frictional resistance of the bottom, and eventually they “break” Spilling breakers (flatest bottom) Surging breakers (steepest bottom) Plunging breakers Waves ...
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Slide 1 - OnCourse

... • Warning systems has been developed in areas such as Hawaii • Hawaii is the highest risk area and averages one tsunami per year • They expect one that causes major damage about once every seven years • Alaska is another high risk area with an average of one every 1.75 years and a major damageof ca ...
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Tsunami - Meaning,Safety

... Tsunami is a Japanese word meaning ‘Harbour Wave’. In the past the scientific community sometimes referred to them as ‘tidal waves’ or ‘seismic sea waves’. Tsunamis are the hydrosphere’s most destructive force. They are giant waves that are caused by sudden movement of the seabed during an earthquak ...
A mechanical wave is created when a source of energy causes a
A mechanical wave is created when a source of energy causes a

... A longitudinal wave is a wave in which the vibration of the  medium is parallel to the direction the wave travels. ...
Measuring `rogue waves` in extreme sea conditions
Measuring `rogue waves` in extreme sea conditions

... A breaking wave in the sub-Antarctic waters © Véronique Sarano ...
Name Oceanography Video Worksheet Waves and Erosion 1. Most
Name Oceanography Video Worksheet Waves and Erosion 1. Most

... 9. T / F The building of inland dams can effect beaches at the coast? 10. One way to protect houses along ocean property is to build what structure? ...
< 1 ... 29 30 31 32 33

Rogue wave



Rogue waves (also known as freak waves, monster waves, killer waves, extreme waves, and abnormal waves) are relatively large and spontaneous surface waves that occur far out in open water, and are a threat even to large ships and ocean liners.They present two kinds of danger: although rare, they are unpredictable, and may appear suddenly or without warning, and they can impact with tremendous force (a 12 meter wave in the usual ""linear"" model would have a breaking force of 6 million tons per square metre (MT/m2); modern ships are designed to tolerate a breaking wave of 15 MT/m2), but a rogue wave can dwarf both of these figures with a breaking force of 100 MT/m2.In oceanography, rogue waves are more precisely defined as waves whose height is more than twice the significant wave height (Hs or SWH), which is itself defined as the mean of the largest third of waves in a wave record. Therefore, rogue waves are not necessarily the biggest waves found on the water; they are, rather, unusually large waves for a given sea state. Rogue waves seem not to have a single distinct cause, but occur where physical factors such as high winds and strong currents cause waves to merge to create a single exceptionally large wave.Rogue waves can occur in other media than water. In particular, optical rogue waves allow study of the phenomenon in the laboratory. A 2015 paper studied the wave behavior around a rogue wave, including optical, and the Draupner wave, and concluded that ""rogue events do not necessarily appear without a warning, but are often preceded by a short phase of relative order"".
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