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Transcript
CHAPTER TWO
REVIEW OF LITERATURE
This chapter reviews the literature in five main areas: (1) the theory of
consumer clothing selection influences, (2) the theory of consumer behavior, (3) the
theory of making purchasing decisions, (4) the theory of marketing mix, and (5)
relevant research.
2.1
THEORY OF CONSUMER CLOTHING SELECTION INFLUENCES
Marshall, Jackson, Stanley, Kefgen, and Touchie-Specht (2000) stated that
there are at least six issues that influence consumers to select clothes: sociopsychological influences, cultural influences, physical influences, demographic
influences, fashion industry influences, and design element influences.
2.1.1
Socio-psychological Influences
Clothing or apparel is considered as another form of nonverbal
communication. It reflects the silent meaning of individuals’ personalities, ideas and
interaction. Whatever wearers wear, clothing will translate the characteristics of the
wearers. The message of clothing can be found everywhere. It represents a range of
messages such as product advertising, political beliefs, school and work loyalties,
geographic travels and humor. Observers gain an impression and understand the role
of one another from clothing symbols. In other words, clothing transmits self-identity
to others including physical character, self-image, personality, styles, lifestyle, values,
attitudes and interests.
2.1.2
Cultural Influences
Culture is another issue that influences individuals or groups in
clothing selection. In clothing history, clothing has been created for physical
protection based on the particular climate and temperature in each place. Two primary
motivations that influence individuals towards developing clothing are modesty and
adornment. Modesty concepts among individuals are different although they are from
the same cultural group. Fashion professionals give significant attention to the
modesty difference in order to better design and produce the most likely modest
9
clothing among individuals. Adornment can be identified as accessories that are used
to beautify or decorate the body through the use of clothing.
Besides modesty and adornment, individuals also select their clothes
based on their sociocultural needs. Individuals are recognized as members of a
particular social group. Clothing communicates individuals’ culture in the following
topics: economic position, social status, ethnic identification, gender and age
differentiation, marital status, religious ideas, technical changes and aesthetic ideals
2.1.3
Physical Influences
The body variances give each individual a unique body including the
characteristics of body, head, fat proportion, body type and weight. An increase in
physical fitness interest has been led by consumer body consciousness. The numerous
combinations of skin color, hair color and type, and nails also contribute to an
individuals’ clothing selection. Understanding these physical influences leads to more
appreciation of clothing selection for fashion professionals.
2.1.4
Demographic Influences
Fashion innovators usually segment their target population by studying
the demographic information. In order to pinpoint consumers specific needs, they
need to develop, select and promote apparel products, and to understand customers,
retailers will have to obtain answers to such questions as who are potential customers
in this store? ; Are they male or female? ; Where do they live? ; and What is their
income level?
2.1.5
Fashion Industry Influences
The fashion industry, a worldwide industry, generates a large number
of apparel and accessories designed for men, women and children. Consumers regard
the idea of fashion as one of the influential factors in selecting clothing. The idea of
fashion is varied by a group of people at a particular time and place. Conventionally,
wealthy or socially prominent actors or actresses, political or business leaders or their
spouses, and others who are widely recognized make the designs become fashionable.
After the new style has been introduced by fashion leaders, the followers take it up
imitatively
10
2.1.6
Design Element Influences
In terms of design element influences, two elements that influence
consumers in clothing selection are color and material texture.
2.1.6.1 Color
The use of color is related to the selection of clothing and items
of personal adornment. Individuals emphasize the contrast of the lightness or darkness
of a color. To avoid color breaks, individuals keep various garments of an outfit in the
same color family. Everyone has their own degree of color sensitivity based on certain
colors and combinations of colors that are more pleasing to him or her than others.
2.1.6.2 Material texture
Texture, a sensory impression that is understood by visual
perception and touch, refers to the surface of the material quality. Individuals consider
material texture as a guideline for making decisions when selecting clothing. They
prefer the best matching texture to their physical proportions, skin, hair texture and
personality.
2.2
THEORY OF CONSUMER BEHAVIOR
Hoyer and Maclnnis (2007) pointed out about consumer behavior in two
important topics: definition of consumer behavior and consumer behavior affectation.
2.2.1
Definition of Consumer Behavior
Hoyer and Maclnnis (2007) stated that consumer behavior is a
reflection of consumers’ decisions regarding the acquisition, consumption, and
disposition of goods, services, activities, and ideas by human decision making units
over time (see Figure 2).
11
Figure 2. Consumer behavior model.
From Consumer Behavior (p. 4), by W. D. Hoyer and D. J. Maclnnis, 2007, NewYork: Houghton Mifflin.
Based on Figure 2, consumer behavior involves the study of decision
making in terms of whether, why, when, where, how, how much, and for how long
consumers will buy, use or dispose of an offering. When consumers accept an
offering, three stages of implementing an offer are applied in the study: acquiring,
using, and disposing.
An offering to consumers does not involve only tangible products, but
it also includes services, activities, and ideas. The sequence of implementing an
offering can occur over a matter of hours, days, weeks, months or even years by many
groups of people, for instance, single individuals, a group of friends, coworkers or
families. The decision makers’ roles vary upon a particular situation. They can be
information gatherers, influencers, deciders, purchasers or users.
2.2.2
Consumer Behavior Affectation
Four main factors that affect consumer behavior are categorized into
four parts: the psychological core, the process of making decision, the consumer’s
culture and consumer behavior outcomes.
2.2.2.1 Psychological core
The psychological core is exemplified by when consumers decide to
purchase something, they intend to have the best product or service. That is why they
have motivation as a first stage of considering many choices. Then, in the exposure
12
stage, they will perceive and attend to any information that is relevant to the decision
making process. From various sources of collected data, consumers categorize and
comprehend information. If any information is not similar to their expected frame,
they will not consider it further. The next stage is to form and change attitudes based
on categorized information. However, consumers’ attitudes can be changed since their
attitudes don’t predict their behavior. The final internal process of psychological core
is to form and retrieve memories.
2.2.2.2 The Process of Making Decisions
When consumers make a decision, the following three steps
make up the process that occurs: information search, judgment making, and postpurchase decision.
1) Information Search
The components of the psychological core cause problem
recognition when consumers recognize that their needs are unfulfilled. This leads
consumers to search relevant information before deciding.
2) Judgment Making
Several decision criteria are involved in making decisions.
Consumers will think about them deeply, analyze them critically and form attitudes
about them.
3) Post-Purchase Decisions
Consumers will evaluate whether the decision that was made is
correct and whether to come back to the same decision again.
2.2.2.3 The Consumer Culture
Apart from internal processes, culture affects the way
consumers process information. Typical or expected behavior, norms and ideas that
characterize a group are included in culture. Influencing factors include diversity
influences, social class and household influences, values, personalities, and lifestyles,
reference groups, and other social influences.
13
2.2.2.4 Consumer Behavior Outcomes
The psychological core, consumer’s culture, and the process of
making decisions symbolize the consumer behavior outcomes. The consumer
behavior outcomes can be seen from the use of the products and the diffusion of ideas,
products or services. Products and rituals hold symbolic significance when people
undergo role transitions, serve as symbols of connection to people, places, and times
that have meaning, and are symbols of individuality and uniqueness. The combined
symbolic use of products and rituals affect the consumer’s self-service.
2.3
THEORY OF MAKING DECISIONS TO PURCHASE
Blythe (2005) stated that there are six related stages of consumers’ decision
making process in purchasing: problem recognition, information search, evaluation of
alternatives, purchase, post-purchase evaluation, and divestment. These stages are
called feedback loops (see Figure 3).
Figure 3. Consumer decision making process in purchasing.
From Essentials of Marketing (p. 45), by J. Blythe, 2005, Essex: Ashford Colour.
2.3.1
Problem Recognition
Based on Figure 3, problem recognition is the first step of making the
decision to purchase; it often arises when there is a need for some items among
consumers. It occurs when the consumers’ stock of goods has been used up or they
feel the need to add some new items based on utilitarian (functional attributes of the
product) or hedonic (pleasurable or aesthetic aspects of the product) purposes. An
internal stimulus or drive leads to motivation which is the reason why people take
14
action. The motivation level depends on the desirability of the end goal, and the ease
of achieving the end goal. It’s a marketer’s concern to specify the situations that
trigger a particular need. By gathering information from a number of consumers,
marketers would have the information of what stimulates those consumers the most.
2.3.2 Information Search
Regarding information search, there are two sources where consumers
can search for information: internal search and external search. The internal search
engages in remembering previous experiences of the product category and what
consumers have heard about the product category. The external search includes
seeking information externally by shopping around, perceiving advertisements, and
talking to friends.
2.3.3
Evaluation of Alternatives
After receiving all the collected information, consumers will select a
consideration set, which is the group of products that would most closely meet the
need by comparing the minimum and maximum acceptable values for the product
characteristics. However, a number of interruptions while evaluating alternatives
could occur, for example, environmental stimuli, affective states, unexpected
information, or conflicts.
2.3.4
Purchase and Post-Purchase Evaluation
When the alternative is evaluated, consumers will purchase the
products that they are familiar with and will also consider remittance terms. After
gaining the products, consumers will decide whether the purchased product has been a
success or not. This process involves a comparison between what consumers were
expecting and what the products actually were. If the products do not live up to the
consumers’ standard, it would lead to post-purchase dissonance and a rejection of the
products.
15
2.3.5) Divestment
Divestment refers to the way that consumers dispose of the product
after use. Marketers consider this as an important part in terms of green marketing,
which relates to environmental issues and the opportunity to increase sales of new
products.
2.4
THEORY OF MARKETING MIX
A set of marketing instruments that an organization uses to pursue its
marketing objectives with the target market is called the marketing mix (Kotler,
2003). Sudaduang Ruengrujira (สุดาดวง เรืองรุจิระ, 2543, p.29) also stated that marketing
strategies are important components in operating marketing tasks. It is a set of
controllable and tactical marketing tools. Many organizations can adapt these
marketing mix variables to meet the needs of their target market. The marketing mix
can be classified into four categories called the four Ps of marketing: product, price,
place and promotion. Each P has equal importance depending on the marketing
team’s strategies. The ultimate goal is to satisfy the marketing target, which is the
consumers.
2.4.1
Product
Product is considered as an offering to customers including product
variety, quality, design, features, brand name, packaging, sizes, services, warranties
and returns. (Kotler, 2003).
Sudaduang Ruengrujira (สุดาดวง เรืองรุจิระ, 2543, p.29)
proposed that product means the mixture of the goods and services, or ideas that
satisfy consumers’ needs. Conventionally, marketers will highlight the total product
including product, satisfaction and additional advantages that consumers will gain
from purchasing the product. It is the marketers’ job to improve the product to meet
target consumers’ standards.
As mentioned by Russ and Kirkpatrick (1982), some product attributes
should be considered before launching in the market: designs, material variety and
servicing.
16
2.4.1.1 Design
The design of the product is considered one of the major factors
that should be considered because this aspect affects the purchasing decision for both
buying agents and ultimate customers. Different designs differentiate product
characteristics. It enhances appearance or buyer satisfaction.
2.4.1.2 Material variety
Material choices are crucial for most customers, for example,
various colors, different styles and different materials. The better you provide exactly
what customers want, the better you prevent customers from going somewhere else.
2.4.1.3 Servicing
Servicing policies among sellers always play an important role
in consumers’ decisions about which product or brand to buy. Customers demand
better service. They feel that it is compulsory for that manufacturers or retailers to
have a policy of servicing their products.
2.4.2
Price
Price represents the value of the goods or services. Marketers consider
the following issues to set up the best price in the market: price list, discounts,
allowances, payment periods, and credit terms (Blythe, 2005). Sudaduang Ruengrujira
(สุดาดวง เรืองรุจิระ, 2543, p.31) also stated that pricing strategy is a key factor for every
manufacturer in order to show the worthy things to consumers. It would lead to
acceptance or rejection from target consumers. It is the most important tool that
business competitors use to steal market share, for example, price discount. However,
as the consumers’ evaluations of a product’s worth change over time, a price tends to
change rapidly as well.
2.4.3
Place
Place refers to wherever the organization’s target group of customers
find as the easiest way to shop for products or services. Marketers emphasize
distribution channels, coverage, assortments, locations, inventory and transport when
making a marketing plan (Blythe, 2005). It is a component of marketing strategies
involving all aspects of distributing products to the consumers in the right place at the
right time. Who, when, where will present the goods is the topics that marketers
would concern. There are two parts of distribution: channel of distribution and
17
physical distribution. The technique of passing products through consumers is called
the channel of distribution, for example, direct sellers or middle man agents. The
physical distribution concerns distributing products to each consumer. Marketers
would consider the easiest way with the most economical cost to access consumers
(สุดาดวง เรืองรุจิระ, 2543, p.30).
2.4.4
Promotion
Promotion is the way that marketers communicate and utilize the
marketing tools to their target customers. Promotion mix includes sales promotion,
advertising, sales force, public relations, direct marketing, telemarketing or internet
(Blythe, 2005). The purpose of promotion is to tell consumers that the particular
products have been launched to the market, to persuade them to purchase and to
create a memory of the products among consumers. Four common communication
processes that marketers use to communicate to consumers are called promotional
mix: personal selling, advertising, sales promotion and public relations (สุดาดวง เรืองรุจิระ,
2543, p31).
2.4
RELEVANT RESEARCH
Audurai
Rattanasak (อัศนอุไร รัตนสัค, 2536) surveyed about attitudes towards
brassieres among undergraduate students in Bangkok. The main points of the study
were about attitudes towards the brassiere, price range, channel of distribution, and
promotion factors influencing brassiere purchase. The research result found that most
undergraduate students were satisfied with the available design and color in the
market. The characteristics of brassieres that undergraduate students liked most were
padded brassieres decorated with half cup embroidery and non-wire. The most
important factor when deciding to purchase was comfort and good fitting. Most of
them purchased brassieres at department stores and paid between 101-150 baht per
piece.
Mantanarat
Kongchuay (มัณฑนรัตน คงชวย, 2546) researched marketing mix
influences for purchasing brassieres among women in Bangkok. In that study 400
women aged 17-45 years old were asked about their opinions towards the marketing
mix and whether it influenced their decision to purchase brassieres. The results
18
showed that the design and color of the brassiere were the most influential factors.
43.5% of the respondents preferred a plain design rather than a decorative design.
Women purchased non-padded brassieres with bra wires in plain colors like white,
pink and cream. Wearing comfort consisted of neat sewing and excellent fabric
quality. The second factor was special discount. Most women wore Wacoal brand
because of its comfort and good quality material. Most women could afford between
201 baht and 500 baht. Department stores were the places where most of the
respondents purchased brassieres from.
Ornuma Raksitanon (อรอุมา รักษิตานนท, 2548) surveyed Thai women’s brassiere
buying behavior in the Bangkok metropolitan area with 400 women The research
result found that most of the sampled group was 21-30 years old. They intended to
buy brassieres before shopping, but they did not buy if the design was not satisfactory.
The sampling group gave the importance to the shape of the brassiere which fitted to
their breast. The most satisfying brand was Wacoal. The average price when buying a
brassiere was 300 baht per piece. The respondents made their decision by considering
popular brands with good quality. Central Department Store was the place where most
of the respondents purchased brassieres from.
The satisfaction of Wacoal Lingerie Missy Style Users in Bangkok was
studied by Maiyasit
Kayaiyam (มัยสิทธิ์ ขยายแยม, 2550). 400 respondents who wore
Wacoal Lingerie Missy Style were asked about their perception of marketing media
satisfaction towards Wacoal Lingerie Missy Style. Television was the most popular
media that most respondents perceived, and internet was the least popular media. In
terms of specific media, most of the sampled group preferred advertising boards while
brochures were the least popular media.
Patchakan Potibenjakul (พัชกานต โพธิเบญจกุล, 2550) studied factors affecting the
purchasing decision behavior of female consumers’ of Wacoal lingerie (Wacoal Nude
Collection) in the Bangkok metropolitan area. The research results showed that most
of the samples were between 21 and 25 years old, had a monthly income of more than
15,000 baht, and, overall, had a good opinion of the marketing mix for Wacoal
lingeries “Wacoal Nude” Collection. Customers’ overall motivation factor was at high
level. When considering the details, the customers had high motivation in terms of
19
brand familiarity, brand favor, lingerie pattern and color. Customers were sometimes
exposed to information about the lingerie. Customers often received information
through magazines, catalogues, TV and fashion media shows. Most of the respondents
sometimes received information through websites and advertisements. Information
received through newspapers was very low.
Jurintip Mahatananurak (จุรินทิพย มหาธนานุรักษ, 2552) investigated what office
women considered when choosing brassieres. The sample was 120 office women who
worked in urban areas of Bangkok. The results indicated that most of the respondents
were 25-26 years old. The largest proportion wore Wacoal brand because of its
quality. Most of the respondents spent 301-500 baht and bought two brassieres each
time. The most favorite type of brassiere was an under wire bra. Most of the
respondents bought brassieres at department stores. The most effective promotion was
special discount.