Download Vandana Ramesh*, KV. Arun Kumar

HERBAL COSMETICS AND ITS ROLE IN ACNE VULGARIS
Vandana Ramesh*, KV. Arun Kumar
Department Of Pharmaceutics , Rajiv Gandhi Institute of Pharmacy, Trikaripur, Kasaragod, Kerala, 671310
[email protected]
ABSTRACT
India is the mother land for the development of Ayurvedic system of medicines and various other natural herbs.
Natural beauty is a blessing and cosmetics helps in presenting and enhancing the beauty and personality aspects
of human beings. Herbal medicine has become an item of global importance both medicinal and economical.
Although usage of these herbal medicines has increased their quality, safety and efficiency that seems to be the
serious concerns in industrialized and developing countries. Herbal remedies are getting increased patient
compliance as they are devoid of typical side effects of allopathic medicines.Herbal preparations are having a
lot of advantages over conventional preparations in minimizing the side effects and increasing the therapeutic
efficacy.The present review provides information on acne vulgaris and the role of Propionibacterium acnes in
the development of acne vulgaris.
Keywords : Herbal medicine, Herbal preparations, Acne vulgaris , Propionibacterium acnes
INTRODUCTION
Historical and current studies indicate that the Eastern region of the Mediterranean has been
distinguished from other regions by a rich inventory of complementary alternative medicine (CAM), in
particular herbal medicine. Data collected from several surveys and studies indicate that there is a flourishing
and well-developed trade of herbs. These surveys also reveal that 200–250 herbs are used in treating human
diseases and are sold or traded in market places in the Mediterranean region or internationally. In addition,
some of these herbs are rare or even endangered species. Herbal medicines are prescribed by
ethnopharmacologists symptomatically not only based on its signs and symptoms alone but with a full
understanding of the underlying disease.In some cases, herbs used today may not even correspond to the plants
described originally in the old literature, as the former are cultivated from herbs that went through different
breeding procedures throughout several centuries.[1]
The ancient science of cosmetology is believed to have originated in Egypt and India, but the earliest
records of cosmetic substances and their application dates back to Circa 2500 and 1550 B.C, to the Indus valley
civilization. There is evidence of highly advanced ideas of self beautification and a large array of various
cosmetic usages both by men and women in ancient India. Many of these practices were subtly interwoven with
the seasons (Sanskrit: Rutus) and the normal rituals of life (Sanskrit: Dinacharya). Significantly, the use of
cosmetics was directed not only towards developing an outwardly pleasant and attractive personality, but
towards achieving merit (Sanskrit: Punya), longevity with good health (Sanskrit: Aayush and Aarogyam) and
happiness (Sanskrit: Anandam). The earliest reference of a beautician is from the great epic Mahabharata, of
carrying a Prasadhana Petika (A vanity case containing substances to beautify, toiletries and accessories to
decorate)[2][3].
The word cosmetic is defined as “Substances of diverse origin, scientifically compounded and used to i)
cleanse, ii) allay skin troubles, iii) cover up imperfections and iv) beautify” (Encyclopedia Britannica, 1970), is
used in this paper in a wider sense to include oral hygiene as well. Different Lepas (Masks or applications) were
recommended for different seasons for body beautification. The ingredients used during the cold seasons were
quite different from those used in warm seasons.
[4]
In fact Ashtanga Hridaya (a 1500 year old book of
Ayurveda) offers six different formulations to be used for the six seasons of the year. Similarly special
cosmetic Tailams (Oils) and Ghritas (Clarified butter or ghee) were used for facial beautification. Superfluous
hair was considered to be a stigma and a large number of depilatory agents were recommended to get rid of it.
Special ingredients were used for hair washes. Many remedies have been indicated for hair growth, prevention
of falling hair and premature graying. Hair dyes, fragrant hair rinses and fumigants were also in use. Fragrant
bath powders and body deodorants also find frequent mention. Oral hygiene in the form of care of teeth, mouth
deodorants and colouring of lips were daily chores to be religiously pursued. It appears that the whole range of
modern cosmetic usage was conceived by the ancient Indians and was practiced with the help of natural
resources then available. [5]
HERBAL COSMETICS
The man from ancient time had the magic tip towards impressing others with their looks ; at the time
there were no fairness creams or any cosmetics surgeries to modify the appearance. The skin and hair beauty of
individuals depends on the health, habits, routine job, climatic conditions and maintenance .[6]The skin due to
excessive exposure to heat will dehydrate during summer and causes wrinkle, freckles, blemishes, pigmentation
and sunburns.The extreme winter cause damages to the skin in the form of cracks, cuts, maceration and
infections. The skin diseases are common among all age groups and can be due to exposure towards microbes,
chemical agents, biological toxin present in the environment, and also to some extend due to malnutrition .[6][7]
The only factor they had to rely on was the knowledge of nature compiled in the ayurveda. The science of
ayurveda had utilized many herbs and floras to make cosmetics for beautification and protection from external
affects. The natural content in the botanicals does not cause any side effects on the human body; instead enrich
the body with nutrients and other useful minerals. The cosmetics, according to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act is
defined as articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied
to the human body or any part there of for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the
appearance. The cosmetic does not come under the preview of drug license. [7]
The herbal cosmetics are the preparations containing phytochemical from a variety of botanical sources,
which influences the functions of skin and provide nutrients necessary for the healthy skin or hair. The natural
herbs and their products when used for their aromatic value in cosmetic preparation are termed as herbal
cosmetics .
There is common belief that chemical based cosmetics are harmful to the skin and an increased
awareness among consumers for herbal products triggered the demand for natural products and natural extracts
in cosmetics preparations.
The increased demand for the natural product has created new avenues in cosmeceutical market. The
Drug and Cosmetics Act specify that herbs and essential oils used in cosmetics must not claim to penetrate
beyond the surface layers of the skin nor should have any therapeutic effect. [5][6][7]
Herbal products have gained increasing popularity in the last decade, and are now used by
approximately 20% of the population. Herbal products are complex mixtures of organic chemicals that may
come from any raw or processed part of a plant, including leaves, stems, flowers, roots, and seeds. Under the
current law, herbs are defined as dietary supplements, and manufacturers can therefore produce, sell, and
market herbs without first demonstrating safety and efficacy, as is required for pharmaceutical drugs. Although
herbs are often perceived as “natural” and therefore safe, many different side effects have been reported owing
to active ingredients, contaminants, or interactions with drugs. [8]
The basic skin care requirements:
o Cleansing agent:which remove the dust, dead cells and dirt that chokes the pores on the skin. Some of
the common cleansers include vegetable oils like coconut, sesame and palm oil. [9]
o Toners: The toners help to tighten the skin and keep it from being exposed to many of the toxins that are
floating in the air or other environmental pollutants. Some of the herbs used as toners are witch hazel,
geranium, sage, lemon, ivy burdock and essential oils[10] .
o Moisturizing:The moisturizing helps the skin to become soft and supple. Moisturizing shows a healthy
glow and are less prone to aging. Some of the herbal moisturizers include vegetable glycerin, sorbitol,
rose water, jojoba oil, aloe vera and iris. [11]
Herbal Cosmetics Can Be Grouped Into Following Major Categories:
1.Cosmetics for enhancing the appearance of facial skin
2.Cosmetics for hair growth and care
3.Cosmetics for skin care, especially in teenager (acne, pimples and sustaining)
4.Shampoos, soaps, powders and perfumery, etc.
5.Miscellaneous products
Indian Extracts for Herbal Cosmetics:
Herbs play a significant role, especially in modem times, when the damaging effects of food processing and
over- medication have assumed alarming proportions. They are now being increasingly cosmetics, foods and
teas, as well as alternative medicines.[12] The growing interest in herbs is a part of the movement towards
change in life- styles. This movement is based on the belief that the plants have a vast potential for their use as a
curative medicine.
Amla (Embilica officinalis): Amla is the name given to the fruit of a small leafy tree (Emblica Officinalis),
which grows throughout India and bears an edible fruit. This fruit is highly prized both for its high vitamin C
content and for the precious oil, which is extracted from its seeds and pulp and used as a treatment for hair and
scalp problems.[13] It is used in eye syndromes, hair loss, and children ailments etc.
Brahmi (Bacopa monnieri): It can be used as a face pack to improve facial complexion. It is used as a hair
application to make hair shiny and their beautification. It also removes dandruff and lice in hair.
[14]
It can also
be used to clean jewellery and washing woolen clothes. It is used in Ayurvedic preparations and Herbal
Shampoos.
Neem ( Azadirachata indica): "Sarva Roga Nivarini - the curer of all ailments" Neem's role as a wonder drug
is stressed as far back as 4500 years ago. Some of its health restoring benefits are effective in skin infection,
rashes & pimples, immunity booster, anti obesity, blood purifier for beautiful & healthy skin, anti diabetic, anti
viral, dispels intestinal worms and parasites, malaria, piles, hair disorder & oral disorders.[15]
Ghritkumar (Aloe vera): It is the most ingenious mixture of an antibiotic, an astringent coagulating agent, a
pain inhibitor and a growth stimulator (also called a "wound hormone"), whose function is to accelerate the
healing of injured surfaces. It is used for pain relief and healing of 'hemorrhoids, applied externally and
internally it is also used for sunburn, scratch and a cleansing purge for the body or skin. It is an aid to growing
new tissue and alleviating the advance of skin cancer caused by the sun.[16]
Multani Mitts (Fullers Earth): It is Mother Nature's own baby powder. Clay was one of the earliest
substances to be used as a beauty mask to draw oils from the skin, natural moisturizers for hairs, teeth, gums
and hair, To remove pimple marks, treating sunburn, helps unclog pores, to cleanse the skin of flakes and
dirt.[17]
Madder Root: Being available in color that suits the lips this was utilized to beautify lips and cheeks.
Hibiscus Rosa Cynensis (Jaswand or Shoe Flower): With dark color of its own this was used to blacken and
maintain hair color. [18]
Raktachandan: This was another natural component available in attractive color and hence was used as fresh,
red bindi / tika (dot) on the forehead.
Aloe Vera: With the traits that prevent aging and regenerate growth of cells this was used as an essential
component to keep oneself fit, protect the skin, prevents and heals skin irritations. [19]
Chandan and Vertiver (Usheer): It was used as scrubs and face packs that were applied on face and whole
body
to
remove
dead
cells,
regenerate
growth
of
new
cells
and
give
a
young
look.
Haldi (Turmeric): It was used as a face pack along with usheer (vertiver) and also as an antiseptic.[20]
The Benefits Of Herbs May Include The Following:
1.Enhance physical and mental well- being
2.Strengthen the immune system
3.Detoxification
4.Aid in sleeping, digestion
5.Increase stamina and reduce fatigue etc
Advantages of Herbal Medicine
1.Herbal medicine have long history of use and better patient tolerance as well as acceptance.
2.Medicinal plants have a renewable source, which is our only hope for sustainable supplies of cheaper
medicines forthe world growing population.
3.Availability of medicinal plants is not a problem especially in developing countries like India having rich
agro- climatic, cultural and ethnic biodiversity.
4.The cultivation and processing of medicinal herbs and herbal products is environmental friendly.
5.Prolong and apparently uneventful use of herbal medicines may offer testimony of their safety and efficacy.
ACNE VULGARIS
Acne vulgaris is one of the most acquainted skin disorder affecting more than 85% population of the
world, specifically teenagers and adolescents. Acne is a common disease that in cases of extreme disfiguration
can have severe consequences for the personality development of young people and is associated with a
relatively high prevalence of depression and suicide. Spontaneous regression is common, but acne can extend
into the fourth and fifth decades of life.
It is an inflammatory disease of sebaceous follicles of skin marked by comedones, papules pustules , nodules
and presence of bacterias such as Propionibacterium acne, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Malassezia furfur in
follicular canal.[21]
P. acnes bacteria live deep within follicles and pores, away from the surface of the skin. In these
follicles, P. acnes bacteria use sebum, cellular debris and metabolic byproducts from the surrounding skin tissue
as their primary sources of energy and nutrients. Elevated production of sebum by hyperactive sebaceous
glands (sebaceous hyperplasia) or blockage of the follicle can cause P. acnes bacteria to grow and multiply.P.
acnes bacteria secrete many proteins, including several digestive enzymes.These enzymes are involved in the
digestion of sebum and the acquisition of other nutrients. They can also destabilize the layers of cells that form
the walls of the follicle. The cellular damage, metabolic byproducts and bacterial debris produced by the rapid
growth of P. acnes in follicles can trigger inflammation. This inflammation can lead to the symptoms associated
with some common skin disorders, such as folliculitis and acne vulgaris.The damage caused by P. acnes and the
associated inflammation make the affected tissue more susceptible to colonization by opportunistic bacteria,
such as Staphylococcus aureus. Preliminary research shows healthy pores are only colonized by P. acnes, while
unhealthy ones universally include the non pore-resident Staphylococcus epidermidis, amongst other bacterial
contaminants. Whether this is a root causality, just opportunistic and a side effect, or a more complex
pathological duality between P. acnes and this particular Staphylococcus species is not known. Thus P.acne and
S.epidermidis are target sites for anti acne drugs. [22]
Cause of pathogenicity
Acne is a disease of pilosebaceous glands. Multiple factors are responsible for pathogenesis of acne as
sebum, abnormal follicular differentiation, hormones, Propionibacterium acne, inflammation and nutrition.
Hormones: Androgens have only the priming role in acne development as they (testosterone and
dehyrotestosterone) stimulate proliferation and differentiation of sebocytes and infundibular keratinocytes.
[23]
During puberty, increased dehyrotestosterone (DHT) may lead to hyperkeratinisation by their action on
infundibular keratinocytes. The hyperkeratinisation in follicular infundibulum and sebaceous duct is one of the
most crucial events in the development of acne lesions.
Sebum: Sebum is the lipid- rich secretion product of sebaceous gland, secreted by sebocytes which
along with keratinocytes may act as immune cells of the skin. The severity of acne is directly proportional to the
sebum production.
[24]
The secretion of sebum increases due to enlargement of sebaceous glands under the
stimulatory action of androgens. The sebum of acne patients is characterized by the presence of lipoperoxides
due to peroxidation of squalene and diminished levels of sebum antioxidant vitamin E.
Abnormal follicular epithelial differentiation-It marks the most primary change in the pilosebaceous unit
in acne patients. Desquamated cornified cells of upper canal of the follicle become abnormally adherent; instead
of undergoing the normal process of shedding and discharge through follicular orifice, these cells form a
retained, microscopic hyperkeratotic plug (the microcomedo) in follicular canal. This process called
comedogenesis. The progressive enlargement of microcomedo give rise to clinically visible comedo which can
be open comedo/ black heads (appearing flat or slightly raised and distend from follicular orifice), have black
colour due to oxidation of melanin pigment, or as closed comedo / white heads, having closed overlying
surface. [25]
Bacteria: Propionibacterium acne is an anaerobic obligate diptheroid that resides beneath the surface of
human skin and populates the androgen stimulated sebaceous follicles. The oxidative stress within the
pilosebaceous unit changes the environment from aerobic to anaerobic which is the best suited for this gram
positive bacterium. It causes inflammatory acne.
[26]
Staphylococcus epidermidis is also the resident of human
skin flora and is the aerobic organism associated with superficial infections within the sebaceous units.
Inflammation: Inflammation is the direct or indirect result of proliferation of P. acne. The bacteria
produce the extracellular lipase that hydrolyses sebum triglycerides to glycerol, used by organism as growth
substrate, and fattyacids, which have proinflammatory and comedogenic properties. Further, P.acne may
activate keratinocytes and sebocytes via TLR, CD14 and CD1 molecules. TLR2 is expressed on the surface of
macrophages surrounding the pilosebaceous follicles in acne lesions. Activation of TLR2 leads to triggering of
transcription factor, nuclear factor and thus the production of cytokines which along with IL8 and IL 12,
released from TLR2 positive monocytes, produce the inflammatory lesions of acne. Inflammatory acne
comprises of pustules, papules and nodules. [23]
Nutrition: Acne is also driven by growth factors (particularly insulin-like growth factor [IGF-1] acting
on sebaceous glands and keratinocytes lining the pilary canal. Dairy products contain 5α-reduced steroid
hormones and other steroid precursors of DHT that drive sebaceous gland function. Drinking milk causes a
direct rise in IGF-1 through a disproportionate elevation in blood sugar and serum insulin level. High glycemic
load foods also cause IGF-1 mediated elevations in DHT. IGF-1 levels during teenage years closely parallel
acne activity and are likely synergistic with the steroid hormones.
[23]
Through population based studies it is
being observed that as the diet westernize, acne prevalence increases. The studies show the associations
between acne and selected food dietary patterns.
[24]
Due to increased instances of resistance of acne inducing
bacterias towards the antibiotics , the alternate system of medicine for the treatment of acne have been
investigated and adopted.
[26]
Among the alternate systems of medicine the topical therapeutic agents are more
convenient for application. It is rightly being said that “for every disease there is a plant on every continent”.
The herbs as ingredients in topical acne treatment are occupying the upper position as they are safe, dilute,
patient familiar, economic, easily available and multifunctional.
MECHANISM OF PATHOGENICITY
Acne Vulgaris is a disease of the epidermal pilosebaceous follicles involving inflammatory and noninflammatory clinical lesions in the skin. The multifactorial pathogenesis of acne includes sebum, ductal
epidermal hyperproliferation, colonization of Proprionibacterium acnes and inflammation . Research has
shown, P. acnes is not the cause of Acne Vulgaris, but is a significant contributing factor to the inflammation
stage of this disease . Sebum secretion upsurge, during times such as puberty, results in linoleic acid depletion
in the follicles. This affects the barrier function of the follicular walls and as a consequence results in the influx
of water from the dermis into the lumen of the follicle, which is the site of colonization of Propionibacterium
acne . As the environment progressively becomes more anaerobic, colonization of follicles by microbes,
including P. acnes is promoted . This increase in P. acnes growth leads to pathogenicity involving the bacteria’s
ability to produce bioactive exocellular products that directly damage host tissue and/ or induce inflammatory
response through interactions with the immune system.
Pathogenic Activity through Toll- Like Receptor Interactions
Propionibacterium acnes, through interactions with Toll- like receptors 2 and 4, contribute to the
inflammatory stage of acne by inducing monocytes to secrete pro-inflammatory cytokines such as TNF-α, IL-1β
and IL-8 . Similarly, P. acnes cell envelope surface molecules such as GroEL, heat shock proteins, DnaK
(chaperon complex) and lipoglycans may all act as ligands for the TLR 2 or 4 on keratinocyte and sebocytes.
These interactions induce not only the production and secretion of cytokines by these epidermal cells,
but P.acnes also activate differentiation and proliferation of keratinocytes . MMPs are endopeptidases produced
by keratinocytes that mediate the rupture of follicles resulting in epidermis acne lesions, as well as enhance
inflammation . Following this, augmentation of TLR 2 and 4 expressions occur . A TLR induction and signal
augmentation cycle is driven by this positive feedback which prolongs inflammation and pathogenesis.[24]
Pathogenic Activity through Exoenzymes
Furthermore, oxygen tension in the follicles leads to porphyrin production by Propionibacterium
acnes which can interact with molecular oxygen resulting in toxic oxygen species (free radicals) . This can then
cause damage to adjacent keratinocytes and contribute to cytokine release and problematic progression of the
lesions . As P. acnes causes hyperproliferation and resulting accumulation of keratinocytes, blockage in
follicular duct and lumen may then ensue . This, combined with the secretion of P. acnes in biofilm
establishment on the follicular walls, results in the formation of microcomedone . Cells within these biofilms
exhibit altered properties,specifically pertaining to growth rate and gene transcription leading to enhanced TLR
interactions . As microcomedone (primary acne lesions) progress, a wide spectrum of P. acnes products and
enzymes may cause microcomedonal inflammation . Propionibacterial lipase hydrolyzes sebaceous triglycerides
to produce free fatty acids . As a main metabolic acid product, propionate (Fig 1) is an irritant and contributes to
the severity of the acne inflammation . Triggered by high bacterial cell density, P. acnes possess quorum
sensing mechanisms through autocrine signal processes which upregulate extracellular enzyme production, such
as lipase protease, hyaluronate lyase, and neuraminidase . These excretions affect both the barrier function of
the follicular wall as well as keratinocyte integrity. [26]
Resistance in Treatment and Prolonging Disease
Propionibacterium acnes is able to induce inflammation through interactions with both the innate
immune system and adaptive immune system leading to chronic inflammation. Population increase of P.
acnes within the follicle increases immunogenic protein . Cytokines and TLR 2 interactions will also direct T
cell migration into the area, developing into prolonged inflammation due to escaladed release of immunological
cytokines . Research has found a high antibiotic resistance of Acne Vulgaris patients carrying P. acnes . Ability
to form biofilms, which gives rise to high resistant sessile P. acnes in the pilosebaceous units , is a contributing
factor to treatment failure . With the formation of the protective extracellular polysaccharide matrix dextran
(glucan) by glucosyltransferase in these biofilms, antibiotic resistance is further enhanced. [24]
FIG 1 : Keratinocytes primary cells of the skin,
surrounding inflamed pore with excess sebum secretion
resulting in augmented presence and growth of
Propionibacterium acnes.
In clinical management of acne vulgaris, a considerable number of antibiotics and chemotherapeutic
agents are available in the global market as topical or systemic treatment modalities [27]. Topical therapy is
preferred as first-line treatment in mild acne whereas for moderate and severe type of acne, systemic therapy is
required in addition to topical therapy. The medications have several adverse effects like birth defects,
erythema, photosensitivity, allergic dermatitis, excessive skin irritation, urinary problem, joint and muscle pain,
headache, depression etc. Many remedies have been employed to treat acne from long period. Most of the
remedies were taken from plants and proved to be useful, scientifically established except for a few plants and
some proprietary composite herbal drugs. The cosmetics available in the market are not reasonable for
everyone. Therefore, an attempt has been made for formulation of herbal acne gel which may give action for
number of hours for everyone. [28]
In the sphere of allopathic, herbs have their own bench mark position. As the figures from the WHO
suggest that 4 billion people, who make nearly 70 % of world population are the users of herbal medicines for
some purpose of primary healthcare. This figure is continuously improving due to intense gray side of
allopathic (side effects, less economic, bacterial resistance etc). The popularity of herbal medicines is growing
by leaps and bounds in the global market. The global herbal market is of size 62 billion dollars 5,6. So the
development of herbal anti acne formulation is an advantageous step.[25]
Treatments
Many different treatments exist for acne, including alpha hydroxy acid, anti-androgen medications,
antibiotics, antiseborrheic medications, azelaic acid, benzoyl
peroxide, hormonal treatments, keratolytic soaps, nicotinamide, retinoids, and salicylic acid.[29] They are
believed to work in at least four different ways, including the following: anti-inflammatory effects, hormonal
manipulation, killing P. acnes, and normalizing skin cell shedding and sebum production in the pore to prevent
blockage.[30] Commonly used medical treatments include topical therapies such as antibiotics, benzoyl peroxide,
and retinoids, and systemic therapies including antibiotics, hormonal agents, and oral retinoids.[29][30]
Recommended therapies for first-line use in acne vulgaris treatment include topical retinoids, benzoyl
peroxide, and topical or oral antibiotics.[30] Procedures such as light therapy and laser therapy are not considered
to be first-line treatments and typically have an adjunctive role due to their high cost and the limited evidence of
their efficacy.Medications for acne work by targeting the early stages of comedone formation and are generally
ineffective for visible skin lesions; improvement in the appearance of acne is typically expected between six and
eight weeks after starting therapy.
80% of the world population relies on medicinal plants for their primary health care. Such herbal
medicines that are easily available, cheaper, time tested and considered safer than most of modern synthetic
drugs. Over 50% of the best selling pharmaceuticals in use today were derived from natural products. Plants
provide a bank of rich, complex and highly varied structures, which are unlikely to be synthesized in
laboratories. Furthermore, evolution has already carried out a screening process whereby plants are more likely
to survive if they contain potent compounds, which deter animals or insects from eating them. These potent
compounds are secondary metabolites with quite complex structures, in which most of them are biologically
active compounds. It is sobering that very few plants were been fully studied and the vast majorities have not
been studied at all. So a preliminary phytochemical screening of the plant is performed.There are various herbal
formulations available in the market for the treatment of acne vulgaris and herbal gels are found to be more
patient friendly.
Herbal Gels are a relatively newer class of dosage form created by entrapment of large amounts of
aqueous hydro alcoholic liquids in a network of colloidal solid particles, which may consists of inorganic
substance, such as aluminum salts or organic polymers of natural or synthetic origins like the natural gums,
tragacanth, carrageen, pectin, agar and alginic acid, semi synthetic materials such as methyl cellulose, hydroxy
ethyl cellulose, hydroxyl propyl methyl cellulose, and carboxy methyl cellulose, and a synthetic polymer
carbopol. [31]
Gels are transparent to opaque semisolids containing a high ratio of solvent to gelling agent. When
dispersed in an appropriate solvent, gelling agents merge or entangle to form a three dimensional colloidal
network structure. This network limits fluid flow by entrapment and immobilization of solvent molecules. The
network structure also responsible for the gel resistance to deformation and therefore, its viscoelastic properties.
[31][32]
In the formulation of gel, the efficacy is often dependent on the composition of the vehicle. The ability
of a drug in gel formulation to penetrate the skin and exert its effect depends on to consecutive physical events.
The drug must first diffuse out of the vehicle to the skin surface and then, it must penetrate the natural barrier to
enter into the site of action. Carbopol polymers are bearing very good water sorption property. They swell in
water up to 1000 times their original volume and 10 times their original diameter to form a gel when exposed to
a pH environment above 4.0 to 6.0. Because the pKa of these polymers is 6.0 to 0.5, the carboxylate moiety on
the polymer backbone ionizes, resulting in repulsion between the native charges, which adds to the swelling of
the polymer. The glass transition temperature of Carbopol polymers is 105°C (221°F) in powder form.
However, glass transition temperature decreases significantly as the polymer comes into contact of water. The
polymer chains start gyrating and radius of gyration becomes increasingly larger. Macroscopically, this
phenomenon manifests itself as swelling.
Topical application of gel at pathological sites offer great advantage in a faster release of drug directly to
the site of action, independent of water solubility of the drug as compared to creams and ointments.[32]
CONCLUSION
The knowledge of medicinal plants used by the people seems to be well known to its culture and
tradition. In the present study we identified many plants used by the people to cure dermatological disorders and
as cosmetics. Some of the plants were found to have dual use, both as curative and cosmetic. Further extensive
ethanobotanical and ethanopharmacological study may lead to the discovery of plants and compounds for skin
care and cure.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The authors express their sincere thanks to management and staffs of Rajiv Gandhi Institute Of Pharmacy,
Trikaripur, Kasargod (DIST), Kerala, for giving all encouragement and valuable support to carry out this
research work.
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