Download New Generation Collagens

New Generation Collagens
First product from the product line – Native Collagen Pure
We use the plural form of the word collagen, because ultimately we intend to produce many more
products. We are able to do this because the fish collagen hydrate, in the form of a temperature
resistant gel, makes it possible to emulsify with many other biologically active substances that are
beneficial to our skin.
Collagen is a word that is synonymous with many restorative and rejuvenating products. That is why
in the beauty and pharmaceutical world it is frequently misused. The name collagen is attached
to almost every product, even those that have been altered or degraded to such an extent that they
no longer resemble collagen.
Collagen, in the form of elongated fibrils, is mostly found in fibrous tissues such as tendons, ligaments
and skin. It is also abundant in corneas, cartilage, bones, blood vessels, the gut , intervertebral discs
and the dentin in teeth. Collagen used in creams and supplements is usually produced from bovine or
porcine connective tissue or fish cartilage and scales. To transform it into a form that can be utilised
in skin care products and supplements, requires aggressive chemical or enzymatic processing called
hydrolysis. The final product is called hydrolysed collagen. It resembles collagen in its amino acid
composition, but not in its structure. Being “dead” protein, inactive hydrolysed collagen does not make
its way through the epidermis to interact with the tissue, and so doesn’t achieve anything more than
a temporary moisturising effect.
Colway’s Natural Collagen is totally different. It is extracted from fish skin in the form of triple helix
(spiral) molecules which are precursors of the collagen fibers. So, in simple words, it would have
become collagen fibre but it was captured and extracted from fish skin at earlier stages of development
and preserved (not processed!) as hydrate. Its molecules maintain their triple helix structure and
determines their biological activity in a beauty product. Such helical pro-collagen easily breaks down
into peptides once it touches the skin. These peptides, are transdermal, unlike hydrolysed collagen.
Scientifically speaking, we are more entitled to call our flagship product “collagen” than thousands
of distributors of preparations that are made of protein that would be once considered collagen.
Our product differs in that it maintains the model structure of collagen and even the inter-spiral and
intra-spiral bonds.
Thousands of “collagens” on the market are usually hydrolysates composed of amino acids, which are
in our opinion, “post-collagen” proteins. They are not collagen any longer, they merely contain amino
acids typical to collagen tissues. Polish collagen extracted directly from the fish skin is a tertiary
collagen, a stage before it develops into collagen fibrils and then fibres.
This unique Polish method of triple helix collagen extraction and preservation is not used in any other
part of the world. However, consumers tend not to know what exactly a hydrolysate is and how and
why it is different from a hydrate.
Why triple helix?
The story of Colway’s Natural Collagen, over the last ten years, reads like a fairy tale. We have created
a truly amazing product. It maintains its structure of the triple helix, characteristic only to living
organisms. But there is one major drawback. This collagen stays active and maintains the structure of
triple helix as long as it is kept cool. When the bottle is warmed, the temperature breaks the bonds
between those three spirals and they “die”, literally speaking. As a result, the product becomes
inactive and loses its properties of a transdermal anti-ageing serum.
So, WHAT IS THE ROLE OF THE TRIPLE HELIX IN COLWAY’S COLLAGEN?
What would a biochemist or a cosmetologist say? Collagen’s triple helices are needed
Because they have an ability to attach H2O molecules to create a gel. In a gel form, it is used as
an effective and the most simple and natural skin care product in the world, that not only rejuvenates
the skin, but also helps address numerous skin problems. Without the triple helices fish molecules
cannot be transformed into a workable cosmetic product? The work of the triple helices in the process
now ends.
Collagen as a molecule, is still excessively large to cross the barrier of epidermis to penetrate the skin.
Even if it is thousand times smaller than a molecule of hydrolysed collagen, it is still huge… It has
a mass of 80–360 kDa (kilodaltons) and the diameter of 4–100 nanometres. It is impossible for it to
pass the epidermal barrier. Therefore, it is not a triple helix collagen molecule as such that passes to
the extracellular matrix of the dermis to the area around the fibroblast. Only after it breaks down into
short peptide chains composed of amino acids can it pass through the skin.
So, if the triple helix spirals must break down in order for its peptides to penetrate into the skin, then
why is Natural Collagen maintained in the form of those spirals?
At this point, we know that only those peptides that have just dissimilated from the collagen triple
spiral and show a biological activity, can migrate through the epidermis. Collagen that experiences a
high temperature in the bottle breaks down into peptides and becomes liquid. It loses any useful
properties after a few hours. When the collagen gel maintains a triple spiral conformation in the bottle,
no decomposition processes take place, even after many years.
How is the triple helix created and how does it breaks down?
It is necessary to remind you of the manner in which a collagen molecule is created. Well, it is always
created in the same way. The atoms of hydrogen, carbon and nitrogen form an amine group. Other
atoms join the amine group, in particular oxygen, and the connected carboxyl group is created. First
simple, and then complex amino acids are created from that unit, and in the next stage peptides are
built. From two to even hundreds of amino acids in a peptide chain. Those processes take place in the
productive cells, which in the skin are known as fibroblasts. Peptide chains create single spirals, and
they interweave to create triplets. This already happens outside the cell. The addition to the fantastic
phenomenon of collagen genesis is the hydroxylation of proline amino acid to hydroxyproline and
lysine to hydroxylysine, which is impossible without vitamin C. The construction is joined as with
a “zip” and this is how the triple helix, or tropocollagen, is formed.
And how does that superhelix break down on our skin?
Well, it never happens in the same way. Different laboratories conducted research on collagen at its
molecular level. They observed the repeatability of the processes of triple helix dissimilation, but the
chemists examining Polish fish collagen until 2012 did not manage to define any rule governing the
process of its breakdown. What is known that the collagen triple helix dissimilates into single helices,
the helices break down into peptides, and some of the peptides even break down into single amino
acids. However, the process doesn’t have any recurrent patterns of any kind, which is quite peculiar,
as collagen has the most regular patterns of amino acid chains of all proteins. Because of the instability
of this process, we have until now, only been able to produce a product that must be kept in a cool
environment. Because of this limitation, we found direct sales to be an ideal platform to the sell our
product.
Also, the world expansion of such a fabulous product has been geographically and logistically limited.
That said, Colway’s Natural Collagen has become tremendously popular in Poland and in a few
neighbouring countries that have adopted a similar, MLM system of selling it. However, we have
always had a vision of putting this bioactive collagen on the global market.
Another Polish biochemical discovery – heat resistance of native collagen
The original Polish method of collagen hydration seemed to be defined and its temperature issues
unsolvable. But we persevered. Piotr Pakuła, a young successful businessman and a passionate
biochemist concentrated on the biochemistry of proteins. This inspired Dr Jan Czarnecki, a researcher
into technologies obtaining pharmaceutical components and creator of many drugs, to conduct
research. In 2010, at a laboratory in Finepharm Jelenia Gora, Poland. He extracted collagen from fish
skins with an almost ideal biological purity. It was not, however, transformed into a marketable
product because the problem of breaking it down by colagenase enzymes was not yet solved. This is a
highly interesting subject for medicine, especially in orthopaedics. Simultaneously, Dr Czarnecki’s
team was looking for a form of fish native collagen which, while maintaining its biological activity,
would at the same time increase its heat resistance.
Eventually, such a product was invented!
Dr Czarnecki assumed that maintaining the triple helix conformation in the collagen gel is not a
necessary condition for the biological activity of its peptides. He was also the first to scientifically
prove that in order for the peptides of the Polish collagen gel to be absorbed, the triple helices must
break down on the skin into single spirals (secondary collagen). Ultimately, while on the skin, collagen
spirals have to break down into smaller protein chunks to be able to penetrate the skin. Czarnecki’s
brilliant idea was to perform a controlled dissimilation of triple spirals into single spirals, while
maintaining the gel form of the hydrate.
In 2012 it became possible using a physical, and not chemical method. Utilising kinetics, pressure, and
temperature, while maintaining extraordinary precision which is only possible in a perfectly equipped
laboratory (formerly “Jelfa” from Jelenia Góra), Dr Czarnecki’s team performed the first completely
controlled breakdown of the triple helices into single helices.
Dr Jan Czarnecki and Jarosław Zych in the Finepharm laboratory
In this way, a new, exceptional product was created – Native Collagen. It has the same chemical INCI
composition as previous Natural Collagen: Aqua, Collagen, Caprylyl Glycol, Elastin, Lactic Acid.
The New Generation Native Collagens which we are now being introduced, have a few features that
the previous triple spiral collagen did not have. Which in turn makes these products much more
marketable.
- new native collagen does not denaturise because its despiralisation has already taken place in the
process of hydration. Even a transition to a nearly liquid state does not downgrade the value of this
product. This is an important innovation.
- native collagen gels change their density depending on temperature. The principles of biophysics
state that the shorter the spiral construction of the protein, the weaker the water molecule’s binding
ability. In low temperatures the density will increase, and in higher temperatures new collagen will
approach a semi-liquid, or even liquid, form. However, as opposed to triple spiral collagen, the new
collagen will renaturise; when cooled down it will return within a few hours to its previous state. The
New Generation Collagen is rather well adapted to temperatures below zero, however, its freezing can
cause (just as in the case of Natural Collagen) the bottle to burst due to expansion of fluids.
- organoleptic properties of such collagen will also be slightly different. Though having identical colour,
it may possess noticeable lower density and a slightly higher viscosity. Colla genno – “glue-producing”
– this is the most characteristic feature of collagen. In the case of new collagen, the effects will be even
better. The Finepharma team discovered certain features of lateral hydrogen bonds which bind
peptide chains into a single helix. This enabled the creation of a new formulation in such a way that
the gel with dynamic density, even liquid (because, e.g., overheated by the user), was not less
“collagen”, or not less viscous.
- This slightly higher viscosity will, after application, frequently give an impression of better lubricating
properties and distributes more evenly on the skin. It also has lower volume of lipid residue when
compared to previous collagens. Such residue cannot be completely removed in traditional collagen
because the fat molecules “get entangled” in triple spiral bonds and mechanical filtration do not
eliminate them.
- Formerly triple spiral collagen, because of lipid residue, had a hint of fish smell. Year by year, the
manufacturers have learnt to separate this lipid residue which reduced the fishy smell. Now, the smell
of native collagen is subjective. Some like it, some do not. However, any odours evaporate very quickly
after application on the skin. The product remains natural, so it contains no artificial fragrances or
odour neutralisers.
- New Generation Native Collagens have better biological purity. They are not only purified from the
lipid residues but also from melanin (pigment). Also, smaller protein structures and lower nominal
density help to purify the substances still further.
- New heat-resistant collagen has the pH level ideal for the skin which equals 5.3 whereas the acidity
of the triple spiral collagen gel is around to 3.2–3.7 pH. At present, unfortunately, the pH level of
Natural Collagen cannot be changed. However, it is worth mentioning that a perfect pH was obtained
through ion exchange. This is the biotechnology of the future, which is being developed in Poland.
- Native Collagen can be easily emulsified with numerous extraordinary components beneficial to the
skin. This opens up great possibilities for the product. However the first to be distributed, Native
Collagen Pure, does not contain any additives.
- The new native collagen allows us to use a different type of bottle. Natural Collagen requires a glass
packaging. The only company in Europe whose tubes and dispensers do not react with lactic acid is the
Italian EuroVetro Cap. For Native Collagen we have contracted the only glass airless bottles in the world
from Lumson. They are expensive but also modern and beautiful.
Great New Products, amazing results, new opportunities.
Pure Native Collagen offers more business opportunities. Easier transportation and storage, no need
for styrofoam packagings and thermo boxes with ice, or the necessity to keep collagen in a refrigerator.
It does not melt, so, no financial loss for distributors. Native Collagen can be sent without any problems
to any part of the world, stored anywhere, and even taken to the beach to hydrate the skin right after
sun exposure. Doesn’t it sound great!
Can the secondary structure (single spiral) be called a collagen?
Certainly. In biochemistry even a primary structure, i.e. a polypeptide chain, is already rightfully called
a collagen.
Struktura I-rzędowa kolagenu
Primary structure of collagen
What does the term “native” really mean?
Dictionaries define this term in the following way: such as in natural conditions, inborn, natural,
appropriate to a given environment, native, innate.
We have decided to use this term in reference to New Generation Collagen because this is the product
that has the same properties as collagen that occurs in a living organism.
What else we need to know about Native Collagen?
The New Generation Collagen is not chemically different from the gel we have known so far.
It is more purified than Natural Collagen from lipids and protein residues.
Native Collagen is characterised by a slightly better Trans Epidermal Water Loss index as compared to
Natural Collagen, which in practice means that during long-term application we can expect a slightly
better effect on skin hydration, i.e. its firmness.
We are confident that Native Collagen will be well received by demanding customers who look for an
inexpensive, effective, and natural anti-ageing product.