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Diamond FAQ
What is a diamond?
A diamond is a crystal made up entirely of carbon atoms that are arranged in an isometric, or
cubic, matrix. A cubic crystal arrangement is one in which the crystal essentially expands
outward at the same rate in all directions during its initial growth; the ideal result, when the
crystal forms without any interference, is a pure and perfectly formed octahedral shape.
However, most diamond crystals encounter varying heat or pressure, other elements, or even
other diamond crystals during their growth, and this can alter their form somewhat. The
resulting form and characteristics of the crystal, once it emerges from the earth, help to
determine what shape, color and clarity the polished gem will have.
The combination of diamond's molecular composition and its crystal structure is what makes
it so unique and gives it all the qualities that we think of when we think of a diamond.
Consider this: The graphite that you commonly find in pencils is also made of pure carbon,
but because the carbon atoms are arranged differently, the result is a soft gray-black
substance that is very unlike hard, colorless diamond. And iron pyrite (known more commonly
as "fool's gold") grows in an isometric arrangement, but because it is not made of pure
carbon, it also lacks the spectacular qualities of diamond.
The unique characteristics of diamond go far beyond what you can see with your eye. In
addition to their superior brilliance and dispersion, diamonds are the hardest natural
substance on earth.
Diamond rates a 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness, which means that it is extremely
resistant to scratches; it is several times harder than the next-hardest substance, corundum,
which is more commonly known as ruby and sapphire.
Diamonds are also very tough, meaning that they do not easily break, chip or crack. And
even more interestingly, they are extremely resistant to heat and chemicals: it would take a
temperature of at least 720° Celsius in air, or 850° Celsius in a vacuum, to burn a diamond;
and sulphuric and hydrochloric acids, which are capable of completely dissolving the skin and
bones of a person, have no effect at all on diamonds (in fact, these acids are actually used to
clean the oil and dust off polished diamonds after they have been cut).
Where do diamonds come from?
Diamonds are made up of pure carbon atoms that exist deep in the ground, exposed to
intense heat and pressure over billions of years. Over time, this pressure builds up and forces
the diamonds and rocks up toward the surface in a volcanic-like explosion. The explosion
creates a very deep, wide hole called a "pipe" into which most of the diamonds settle; these
deposits of diamonds are known as primary deposits. Other diamonds are washed away by
water or erosion, and often settle into the coastal waters of nearby bodies of water; these are
alluvial deposits. These deposits occur in many places around the globe; however, the
largest commercial deposits exist in Angola, Australia, Botswana, Namibia, South Africa,
Russia and Zaire, which produce 80% of the world's diamonds.
Walking through the aisle of a jewelry store, you may not think diamonds are especially rare.
But consider this: 250 tons (500,000 pounds) of ore must be mined and processed to
produce just one carat of rough diamond. Since a rough diamond typically loses 40% to 60%
of its weight when cut, that means that all these efforts are necessary to produce just one of
the .50 carat polished diamonds you find in the store's display counters. When you also
consider the fact that only about one quarter of all rough diamonds are actually suitable for
gem cutting, you can begin to appreciate the rarity and uniqueness of each diamond.
A quick, fun fact: The first diamond deposits were brought to the surface of the earth
approximately 2.5 billion years ago. The most recent deposits are roughly 50 million years
old. Your diamond is a truly unique piece of history.
How is a diamond cut?
A newly mined rough diamond looks more like a piece of glass washed up on the beach than
like the polished gems sold in jewelry stores. Bringing out their beauty requires the skill and
art of a trained diamond cutter.
While incredibly precise, computerized machinery is now used in some parts of the cutting
process for some diamonds, most of the work is still performed by hand using exacting and
meticulous techniques passed down over the generations.
As a first step, cleaving or sawing is often used to separate the original rough into smaller,
more workable pieces that will each eventually become an individual polished gem. Next,
bruting grinds away the edges, providing the outline shape (for example, heart, oval or round)
for the gem. Faceting is then done in two steps: during blocking, the table, culet, bezel and
pavilion main facets are cut; afterward, the star, upper girdle and lower girdle facets are
added.
Once the fully faceted diamond has been inspected and improved, it is boiled in hydrochloric
and sulfuric acids to remove dust and oil. The diamond is then considered a finished,
polished gem.
What is an "Ideal Cut"?
The "Ideal Cut" is a cut based on a specific set of proportions for a round brilliant diamond
proposed by gem cutter Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919. While Tolkowsky's original theories
presented only one particular combination of proportions for creating the best balance of
brilliance and dispersion, today the American Gemological Society recognizes any diamond
falling within a narrow range of proportions and finish quality as being an "Ideal Cut" (also
called an "AGS 0" or "AGS triple zero").
How does a diamond get from the mines to the stores?
Finding the rough diamonds is only the first step. Once diamonds have been mined and
processed out of the 'overburden' (that is, the kimberlite rocks in which they are imbedded),
the rough crystals are sorted and categorized according to their size, color, shape and other
characteristics. At this point, a diamond can follow one of two routes.
The most common route is through the channels of DeBeers' Central Selling Organization
(CSO). Many people are familiar with DeBeers mainly because of their advertisements and
commercials and because of the famous motto that they coined in the early half of the 20th
century: "A Diamond is Forever."
While DeBeers' market influence has decreased somewhat over the last few years, they still
control the majority of the world's diamond production (an estimated 30% to 40% of annual
diamond production). The purchasing arm of the CSO not only buys diamonds from member
mines around the world; it also finances mining technology for governments which do not
have the means to mine their own deposits. Most of what is bought through the CSO is sent
to London to be offered to buyers through DeBeers marketing arm, the Diamond Trading
Corporation (DTC).
The DTC holds ten week-long selling sessions called 'sights' each year. These sights are by
invitation only, and only a handful of diamond manufacturers from around the world (called
'sightholders') are allowed to attend. These sightholders may chose to cut the rough
diamonds they buy themselves, or they may chose to sell some of the rough diamonds to
smaller manufacturers.
These smaller manufacturers cut the rough diamonds and sell the polished gems either to
jewelry manufacturers (who set the diamonds into finished pieces of jewelry and then sell the
jewelry to jewelry retailers), or to diamond wholesalers (who then, in turn, sell the diamonds
to diamond retailers).
In the less common route from mine to market, some independent miners elect not to sell
their mine production to the DeBeers cartel. Instead, they offer newly mined diamonds
directly to other world buyers. These buyers, in turn, may chose to cut and sell the diamonds
themselves, or pass the diamonds along within the industry in a manner similar to that
described above.
Is a diamond a good investment?
The answer depends on whether you are investing in the diamond itself, or in what a
diamond represents.
Diamond prices have been steadily increasing for the past 20 years, and diamonds tend to
hold their value. Given this, it is extremely unlikely that diamonds will ever entirely lose their
value, in spite of how the market may change in the future. However, no one can predict, with
absolute certainty, which way the market will swing and, in general, we do not recommend
buying up high-quality diamonds as a main part of a financial/retirement plan.
On the other hand, if you are looking for a source of beauty and a symbol of eternity and
everlasting love, there are few objects you can choose that will surpass a diamond's
perfection. Diamonds have inflamed man's passions since the first moment at which they
were discovered, and their power over our emotions and desires has only grown since then.
As a timeless and beautiful gift to yourself or as an emblem of your commitment to another, a
diamond is an excellent investment.
Is it safe to receive a diamond in the mail?
Yes and no. It is safe if the diamond jeweler uses insured carriers (e.g., FedEx and UPS) to
ship its packages and all shipments are insured for the full value of their contents.
Before buying a diamond online, find out what the store's policy is in case of lost shipments.
A professional diamond jeweler should have no objection to providing either a replacement or
a refund.