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Oceanography
Chapter 15-River Systems
Objectives;
*Identify how Earth’s water is distributed among salt and fresh water sources
*Describe how Earth’s water moves through the water cycle
*Describe factors that affect water budget
*List approaches to water conservation
*List examples of how people and other living things use water.
15-1 The Water Cycle.
I. Water Distribution
A. Water on Earth
1. _______________ (97%)
2. Fresh Water (3%)
a. ¾ of the fresh water is in huge ice masses (glaciers)
b. a fraction is water vapor
c. less than 1% is available for human consumption
3. Available for human use
a. Oceans
b. Ice
c. River and lakes
d. Below Earth’s surface
a. ________ Water- water that fills in cracks and spaces in
underground soil and rock layers
b. Far more fresh water is located underground than in all
of Earth’s rivers and lakes
II. The Water Cycle
A. ______________- the continuous movement of water on Earth’s surface from
the atmosphere to the lakes and oceans and back to the atmosphere. Water
moves through both living and non-living parts of the environment.
1. Evapotranspiration- the total loss of water from an area, which equals
the sum of the water lost by evaporation from the soil and other
surfaces and the water lost by transpiration from organisms.
a. ____________-liquid water changes to water vapor and into the
atmosphere. Water molecules on the surface absorb enough
energy to change to a gaseous state.
b. ____________-process by which plants release water vapor into
the atmosphere.
2. Condensation-is the change of state from gas to a liquid.
a. clouds form when _____________ cools and condensed water
droplets clump together around tiny dust particles in the air.
3. ______________-the process by which water falls from the clouds.
a. precipitation is a form of water that falls to Earth’s surface
1. rain
2. sleet
3. snow
4. hail
b. 75% of precipitation falls on the Earth’s oceans
c. Runoff or Ground Water- precipitation that falls on land
1. Runoff- runs along the ground surface
2. Ground water- soaks into the ground
III. Water Use
A. Human Use- the average person uses __________ L if water per year
1. Household uses-bathing, washing clothes, dishes, watering lawns,
carrying away waste, and drinking.
2. ________________-growing produce to eat.
a. irrigation- the process of supplying water to areas of land to
make them suitable for growing crops.
3. Industry-use of water for cooling and ________________
4. Transportation- since ancient times people have used water ways to get
from place to place.
5. Recreation- using water for leisure activities and enjoyment
B. Living Things- water is essential for living things to grow, reproduce, and
carry out important processes.
1. Photosynthesis- plants use water, Carbon Dioxide, and energy from the
_________ to make food.
2. __________- a place where an organism lies. Both fresh and salt water
provide habitats.
IV. Conservation of Fresh Water
A. Conservation- wise use of water.
1. Limit use as much as possible
2. anti-pollution laws
B. Alternative methods of obtaining fresh water
1. ____________________- removing salt from ocean water. Expensive
Chapter 23- The Ocean Basins
Objectives:
*Define Oceanography
*Describe how that oceanographers study the ocean
*Explain how sonar works
*List examples of submersibles
*Describe the main features of the ocean floor
*Compare seamounts, guyots, and atolls
I. Exploration of the Ocean
A. _________________- the study of the physical and geological characteristics,
chemical composition, and life-forms of the ocean.
1. modern oceanography began around the 1850’s
2. 1872-1876 _____________ laid the foundation for the modern science
of oceanography.
B. Sonar- a system that uses acoustic signals and retuned echoes to
determine the location of objects or to communicate. (SOund
Navigation And Ranging)
1. sound waves travel about 1,500 ______
2. measure the amount of time the sound wave takes to leave the
transmitter, bounce off the ocean floor, and travel back to the
receiver to calculate ocean depth.
C. Submersibles- underwater _____________________
1. Bathysphere- spherical diving vessel that remains connected to the
research ship for communications and life support.
2. __________________- self-propelled, free moving submarine.
3. Submarine Robots- remotely piloted allowing oceanographers to study
ocean depths for ________________ of time.
D. ________________- Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus
II. Features of the Ocean Floor
A. Continental Margins-shallow parts of the ocean floor made of continental
crust and a thick wedge of sediment
1. Continental Shelf- part of the continent that is covered by ________. It
gently slopes out from the shoreline.
a. Ave. depth 60 m
2. _________________- at the seaward edge of the continental shelf is a
steep slope. This is the boundary between the continental crust and the
oceanic crust.
a. Submarine Canyons- v shaped ________ that cut into the slope.
Often found near the mouths of rivers.
b. Continental Rise- sediments that run down the slop and form a
wedge at the base of the slope.
B. Deep Ocean Basins
1. ________- long narrow depressions located in the deep ocean basin. A
steep sided canyon.
a. ______ Trench- deepest place in Earth’s Crust (11,000 m deep)
2. Abyssal Plains- vast, flat areas of the deep-ocean basins where the
ocean is more than 4 km deep.
a. covers about ½ of deep-ocean basin and flattest region on Earth.
3. Mid-ocean Ridges- underwater ___________________ that run along
the floors of all oceans.
a. form where plates pull away from each other.
4. Seamounts- __________ volcanic mountains that are taller than 1 km.
a. Seamounts that rise above the ocean surface form oceanic
islands.
b. Guyots-seamounts that have eroded to a __________ top that is
submerged
c. Atoll- the stage between seamount and guyot
Chapter 24 Ocean Water
Objectives:
*Describe the chemical composition of ocean water
*Describe the salinity, temperature, density, and color of ocean water
*Explain how marine organisms alter the chemistry of ocean water
*Explain why plankton can be called the foundation of life in the ocean
*Describe the major zones of life in the ocean
*Describe three important resources of the ocean
*Explain the threat that water pollution poses to marine organisms
I. Properties of Ocean Water
A. Dissolved Gasses
1. 2 main gasses dissolved in ocean water are ______ and ______
2. Enter water in a variety of ways
a. rivers and streams
b. volcanic eruptions
c. organisms that live there
3. Temperature affects amount of dissolved gas in the water
a. gasses dissolve better in ______water then in _______ water
B. Dissolved Solids
1. Most abundant elements
a. chlorine-55%
b. ___________-30.6%
c. magnesium-7.7%
d. sulfur-3.7%
e. calcium-1.2%
f. potassium-1.1%
2. Sources
a. volcanic ___________
b. chemical weathering of rock on land
c. chemical ____________ of sea water and new sea floor rocks
C. Salinity of Ocean Water-the measure of the amount of dissolved salts and
other solids in a given liquid.
1. How is it measured
a. can be measure by grams of dissolved solids per 1,000g ocean
water. __________ 35 parts per 1,000g water. Freezes at colder
temperature than fresh water.
b. recording the conductivity of the water. The higher the salinity
the better its conductivity
2. Factors that change ____________
a. precipitation (fresh water)
b. evaporation (leaves solids behind)
c. freezing
d. river emptying into oceans
D. Temperature of Ocean Water- varies depending on _______ and __________
on the surface.
1. _________ Water
a. waves and currents distribute heat downward so temperature of
surface water is fairly ________ as you go down (100m-300m)
b. _________- a floating layer of sea ice that completely covers an
area of the ocean surface.
2. Thermocline- layer in a body of water in which water temperature
drops with increased depth faster than it does in other layers.
a. occurs because water becomes less dense as energy from the
sun warms the water and the warm water does not easily mix
with the colder water
3. Deep Water
a. __________ water & __________ water
b. more _____________ as you get deeper
c. cold drives the deep water currents
d. cold dense water at the poles sinks and flows beneath the warm
water at the equator
E. Density of Ocean Water
1. Factors that affect ____________ of ocean water
a. salinity- large amount of salts makes water denser
b. temperature- colder water is denser water
F. Color of Ocean Water- determined by the way it absorbs or reflects light
1.Why is it important
a. substances or organisms can affect color
b. Phytoplankton are microscopic plants on ocean that provide
food to many of the ocean’s organism.
1. require nutrients, presence or absence can indicate the
health of the ocean
II. Life in the Oceans
A. Ocean Chemistry and Marine Life
1. __________-the movement of deep, cold, and nutrient-rich water to the
surface
B. Marine Food Webs
1. Most marine organisms need _______ as well as nutrients so live in the
upper 100m of water
2. Plankton- free floating, microscopic organisms that live within the
sunlit zone.
a. form the base of the complex food webs in the ocean
b. ________________- animals
c. ________________- plants
3. _______- all organisms that swim actively in open water (fish, dolphin,
squid)
4. ___________- marine plants and animals, such as oysters, sea stars and
crabs, that live in sunlit, shallow waters.
C. Ocean Environments (zones)
1. Benthic Zones
a. ________ Zone- lies between the low-tide line and the high-tide
line.
1. shifting tides and breaking waves make this zone a
continually changing environment.
2. harsh conditions- under water, hot sun, changes in
salinity
3. Tidal Pool- where water remains in the depression areas
of rock.
b. Sublittoral Zone- contains ______ of life in Benthic zone and is
continually submerged.
c. Bathyal Zone- little to no light so plant life is scarce
d. ______________ Zone- no sunlight, life is sponges and worms
e. Hadal Zone- in trenches, so deep they are pretty unexplored
2. Pelagic Zones-Area above the benthic zone
a. _________ Zone- abundant sunlight, moderate temperature, low
water pressure.
1. nekton fill the zone’s water and are the source of much
of the fish and seafood humans eat.
b. Oceanic Zone- extends into the deep waters beyond the
continental shelf.
1. the amount of life decreases as the depth increases
III. Ocean Resources
A. Fresh Water from the Ocean
1. Methods of Desalination
a. Distillation-ocean water is ________ to remove the salts. Water
evaporates leaving the salts behind.
1. requires a large amount of heat energy
b. Freezing- first ice crystals do not contain salt. Remove ice and
thaw.
1. uses _______ the energy of distillation
c. Reverse Osmosis Desalination- involves special membranes and
________ that allow water to go through but leave salts behind.
B. Mineral and Energy Resources
1. Petroleum- most valuable resource found beneath the ocean floor
a. about ¼ of worlds oil is obtained from off-shore wells
2. ________- potato-shaped lumps of minerals found on the abyssal plain
a. source of: manganese, iron, copper, nickel, cobalt, and
phosphates
b. recovery is difficult and expensive because they are located in
very deep water
c. because country borders are observed only close to land, who
has the right to mine minerals from the ocean?
3. Trace Minerals
a. extraction is too costly
C. Food from the Ocean
1. Fishing
a. over fishing/harvesting over a long period of time can collapse
the population of fish.
b. governments have passed laws to help manage fishing
2. ________________- raising of aquatic plants or animals for human
consumption.
a. ocean farms are susceptible to pollution or may be a source of
local pollution.
D. Ocean-Water Pollution
1. _________Sources
a. garbage, sewage, oil spills, and nuclear waste
b. increased world population has increased pollution
2. __________ Sources
a. heavy rains (decreases salinity)
b. Estuaries- fresh water river meets the ocean
1. Brackish water
Chapter 25 Movements of the Ocean
Objectives:
* Describe how wind patterns, the rotation of the Earth, and continental barriers
affect surface currents in the ocean
* Identify the major factor that determines the direction in which a surface
current circulates
* Explain how difference in the density of ocean water affect the flow of deep
currents
* Describe the formation of waves and the factors that affect wave size
* Explain how waves interact with the coastline
* Identify the cause of destructive ocean waves
* Describe how the gravitational pull of the moon causes tides
* Compare spring tides and neap tides
* Describe how tidal oscillations affect tidal patterns
* Explain how the coastline affects tidal currents
I. Ocean Currents
A. Factors that Affect Surface Currents- currents that move at or near the
surface
of the ocean driven by wind.
1. Global Wind Belts
a. ________________- located just north and south of the equator
1. push currents westward across tropical latitudes
b. ________________- located in the middle latitudes
1. push currents eastward in the higher latitudes
2. Continental Barriers
a. continents deflect and divide currents
3. The ______________Effect
a. Earth spins on its ____and causes ocean currents and wind belts
to ___________
b. Gyres- huge circles of water caused by the Coriolis effect
c. 5 main gyres in the ocean
4. El Nino- an abnormal climate event that occurs every 3-10 years in the
Pacific Ocean.
a. prevents upwelling
b. shifts in weather patters around the world bringing unusual and
often severe conditions
B. Major Surface Currents
1. _________________ Currents
a. located in Atlantic, Pacific, and Indian Oceans
b. warm water that moves in a westward direction
2. Currents in the _____________ Hemisphere
a. main gyres move in a _________________ direction
b. ___________________ Current- world’s largest
3. Currents in the ____________Atlantic
a. _________- warm water that moves through the Caribbean Sea
and Gulf of Mexico then north along the east coast of North
America.
4. Currents in the North Pacific
a. Kuroshio Current- ___________equivalent of Gulf Stream
5. __________- pattern of temperature and precipitation typical of an area
over a long period of time
a. a ______________can warm or cool the air above it influencing
the climate of the land near the coast.
C. Deep Currents- ____________currents far below the surface. Dense because
cold (molecules contract) and salinity (fresh water in icebergs and sea ice
leaving salts behind)
1. ___________ Bottom Water
a. -2oC and high salinity makes it the ______ and ________ water
in the world
b. sinks to the bottom of the ocean floor and forms a deep current
c. takes ________ of years to travel from Antarctica to Greenland
2. North ___________ Deep Water
a. dense due to temperature and salinity
b. current flow south towards Antarctica
c. current _________ sending some back to Greenland and some
continues on, above the denser Antarctic water.
3. __________ Currents
a. occurs due to an underwater _______________
b. sediments on the continental shelf or slope suddenly break loose
and slide downhill.
II. Ocean Waves
A. ______- periodic disturbance in a solid, liquid, or gas as energy is transmitted
through the medium.
1. ________- highest point of a wave
2. Trough- lowest point of a wave
3. _____________- distance between two crests or two troughs
4. Wave Height- vertical distance between crest and trough
5. _____________- the time required for two consecutive wave crests to
pass a given point
6. Wave speed- is calculate by dividing the wave’s wavelength by its
period
Wavelength
Wave Speed = Wave Period
7. _____________- number of waves passing a point in a given time
8. Amplitude- energy and strength of wave
9. Wave FormulaSpeed
Wavelength =Frequency
B. Wave Energy
1.Energy
a. uneven heating of the Earth’s atmosphere causes changes in
pressure which in turn causes wind
b. wind ___________ energy from the sun to the ocean and forms
waves
2. Water Movement in a Wave
a. _____ in a wave moves from water molecule to water molecule
in the direction of the wave but the water itself moves _______
b. water molecules within the wave move in a __________ pattern
c. a circle traced by a molecule of water on the surface has a
diameter equal to the wave height.
d. waves receive their energy from wind on the surface therefore
the energy decreases as depth increases
3. ______________
a. Factors that affect wave size
1. ________ of wind
2. ___________ of time wind blows
3. ______- the distance that the wind can blow across open
water
b. Waves will only increase in size to a certain height-to-length
ratio before it collapses
c. Swells- are long, rolling waves of ___________ which move in
groups
d. ____________- when the wind blows the crest of a wave off
1. whitecaps reflect solar radiation so less gets in to the
ocean, could this affect climate
C. Waves and the Coastline
1. ________- top of wave topples over forming a foamy mass of water that
washes onto shore
a. as waves approach shore, the bottom of the wave hits the ocean
floor slowing the bottom of the wave and pushing the water
upward and the top continues at the same speed and topples
over
b. breaking waves scrape sediments off the ocean floor and move
the _____________ along the coastline
c. _______ of breakers are determined by 3 factors
1. original wave __________
2. wavelength
3. ____________ of ocean floor close to the coastline
a. steep- wave breaks quickly with force
b. sloping- wave rises slowly and gently
2. ____________- the process in which ocean waves bend toward the
coastline as they approach shallow water.
a. as wave approaches coastline, part of the wave that is in shallow
water slows and the part that is deep maintains speed
b. strikes the shoreline head-on
3. Undertows and Rip Currents
a. Undertow- current caused by gravity pulling water from waves
back into the deeper water.
b. ____________- water from large breakers return to the ocean
through channels that cut through underwater sandbars that are
parallel to the beach.
1. flow _____________ to shore and can pull a swimmer
away from the shore
4. Longshore Currents- form when waves approach the shore at an angle
a. flow parallel to shore
b. carry large amounts of _________
c. the sand is deposited when the wave loses energy
1. sandbar- low ridges of sand
d. ______- cement barrier that reduces the amount of sand carried
away but they increase erosion farther down the shore.
D. Tsunamis- giant seismic waves caused by earthquakes on the ocean floor
1. Speed and Height- 890 km/h, 30-40m
III. Tide
A. Tides- periodic______ and ________ of water level in the ocean
1. High Tide- water is at its highest (about every 12 hours & 25 min)
2. Low Tide- water is at its lowest
B. Causes
1. ____________________ pulling on Earth and Earth’s water
a. as moon revolves around the earth it exerts a gravitational pull
on the entire earth
b. pull is __________ on side nearer to the moon, result is a bulge
which causes a high tide
c. a bulge forms on the ____________ because the majority of the
mass is in the center of the Earth so it is pulled stronger then the
water on the far side
d. low tides occur at the same time _________ between the 2 high
tides
2. Sun
a. affect is much smaller because the sun is so far from the Earth
C. Behavior of Tides
1. Tidal _____- the difference in the levels between high tide and low tide
2. ________ Tides
a. occur during ____ moon and ____ moon when the Earth, Moon,
and Sun are aligned
b. _______ high tides and ______ low tides occur during this time
3. _______ Tides
a. occur during the 1st and 3rd quarter phases of the moon when the
moon and sun are at right angles to each other
b. daily tidal range is _______
D. Tidal Variations
1. Tidal pattern- is influenced by size, shape, depth, and location of the
ocean basin
2. Tidal ____________- are slow rocking of motions of ocean water that
occur as the tidal bulges move around the ocean basins
E. Tidal Currents
1. Tidal Current- movement of the waters as ocean water rises and falls
with the tides, it flows toward and away from the coast
a. Flood Tide- tidal current that flows toward the coastline
b. ____Tide- tidal current that flows away from the coastline
c. Slack Water- no tidal currents, between ebb and flood tide
d. _________- a surge of water that rushes upstream where a river
enters the ocean