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Pronalen HS
BOTANY
Glycine max. (L.) Merrill, Soja max (L.) Piper, Glycine hispida (Moench) Maxim, Phaseolus max (L.). Soy
(Glycine max L.) is an annual herb, member of the Leguminosae (Fabaceae) family. This plant derives
from the wild species Glycine soja Siebold &Zucc, Glycine ussuriensis Regel &Maack.
The soy plant has characteristic stems, either creeping or erect, up to 1.5 m tall, covered with fine
reddish pubescence. Leaves are trifoliate and hairy; they usually fall before the seeds ripen. Flowers are
papilionaceous, yellowish-white or purple-blue, small sized, clustered in axillary inflorescences. Fruits
are hairy pods that contain 2-6 semi-globular smooth beans, whose color varies from yellowish-white to
brown.
Soy is considered native to the Far East, where it has always been a staple food. It is currently cultivated
in a number of temperate-warm regions worldwide. Nowadays, wild soy only exists in small regions of
the Amur Ussuri delta, Taiwan, Korea and Japan.
Pronalen HS consists of soy biopeptides obtained by carefully controlled enzymatic hydrolysis of isolated
soy proteins.
CHEMISTRY
Most plant proteins are considered "incomplete" proteins because they are relatively low in one or more
essential amino acids, at levels insufficient for human needs. Grains are typically low in lysine; beans are
typically low in the sulfur amino acids, methionine and cysteine. However, the level of sulfur amino acids
in soybeans is higher than in other beans, and as a result, soy protein is equivalent to animal protein in
nutritional quality.
The typical amino acids in soy protein are: leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, valine, isoleucine, threonine,
tyrosine, tryptophan, cystine and methionine.
Amino-acid
Histidine
Isoleucine
Leucine
Soy
Concentrate
0.40
0.70
1.20
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Soy Isolate
0.60
1.10
1.70
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Lysine
Methionine
Phenylalanine
Tryptophan
Threonine
Valine
1.00
0.20
0.80
0.20
0.60
0.80
1.30
0.30
1.10
0.30
0.80
1.00
Table 1. Essential Amino-acid content (g per 100g)
TRADITIONAL USES
Soy protein supplies all essential amino acids and
provides many functional benefits to the food processors
and for a healthy diet. Soy ingredients promote moisture
and flavor retention, aid emulsification, and also enhance
the texture of many foods. Soy proteins are easily digested
by humans and equal the protein quality of milk, meat and
eggs. Moreover, soy proteins are acceptable in almost all
diets containing virtually no cholesterol and being lactosefree. The nutritional value of soy protein provides the
consumer with cholesterol free, lower fat alternative to
animal protein (www.asa-europe.org/pdf/riaz.pdf).
COSMETIC PROPERTIES
Soy is becoming more important in the last years for the cosmetic field. According to findings released in
2001 (American Academy of Dermatology meeting), soy can reduce skin discoloration, slow hair growth,
reduce the appearance of redness caused by acne and sun, provide skin protection from UV rays (due
to its high content in amino acids and peptides), and act against oxidative processes. However, other
activities are also proved for soy and its compounds.
Cell renewal and stimulating activity
As one ages, metabolism in the skin (and everywhere else) slows down. So too does the rate at which
epidermal cells are produced, which may interfere with wound healing. The time necessary to repair the
stratum corneum barrier increases considerably with age: the replacement of skin cells takes about twice
as long for people over 75 as for those around 30.
Skin firmness, elasticity and tone are gradually lost with age. These changes originate in the dermis and
correspond to the ability of cells, particularly the fibroblasts, to regenerate themselves and the molecules
which make up the extracellular matrix.
A study around the effect of different protein hydrolysates on proliferation of both monolayered cultures
and skin equivalent models showed that soybean polypeptides caused an increase in fibroblast
proliferation, and consequently, led to the stimulation of collagen and elastin formation. The effect of
these soy peptides on glycosaminoglycan synthesis was also significant (Frei, V. et al, 1998).
Later on, the same authors demonstrated that the efficacy of the soybean peptide that had been found in
vitro also correlated to in vivo situations with human volunteers. These biopeptides induce a significant
increase of glycosaminoglycans and collagen synthesis in vitro and in vivo after a one-month treatment
(Frei, V. et al, 1999).
Pronalen HS, due to its soy bioactive peptides content, is able to encourage cell renewal by 22% and
provide the skin with a radiant and youthful appearance.
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Hair conditioning activity
Conditioning agents are expected to provide smoothness and shine to the hair, facilitate combing and
reduce static electricity. A number of ingredients may be used to formulate hair conditioners including
protein hydrolyzates (Dureja, H. et al., 2005).
Proteins protect the hair from environmental damage, repair and condition it, increase elasticity and
reduce the risk of breakage (Griesbach, U. et al., 1998).
Substantivity is a measure of a molecule’s ability to establish bonds with
the skin or the hair. Several studies have demonstrated the substantivity of
protein hydrolyzates on the hair surface (Chahal, S.P., et al., 1999).
Proteins are polymer chains with hydrophilic groups (hydroxyl, carboxyl
and amine groups), which easily bind water molecules. Protein hydrolysis
generates more carboxyl- and amine-terminal groups, thus increasing
water-retention. Thus, because of their hydrophilic nature, protein
hydrolyzates can retain water; the more hydrolyzed the protein, the higher
the water-retention. Qualitative data have demonstrated higher waterretention and better regulation of water-absorption and release for protein
hydrolyzate-treated hair (Chahal, S.P., 1999).
Low molecular weight proteins can penetrate to the hair-shaft cortex, thus repairing, strengthening and
protecting it from the inside. High molecular weight proteins are good hair soothing and protecting
agents, because of their ability to coat the hair-shaft surface (Huetter, I., 2003).
Therefore, Pronalen HS is recommended to formulate cosmetic products with hair conditioning and
repairing activity.
Anti-stress activity
In just the past 10 years, stress factors have continually increased. Now there is a constant sense of risk
in our daily lives and it has become a time when maintaining mental stability is especially difficult. Young
and old, men and women, everyone lives with numerous stressors.
It is known that levels of oxygenated hemoglobin are elevated when our
brain is stressed and that feeling comfortable makes them go down. In a
study conducted at the National Food Research Institute in Japan people
taking soy peptides and people not taking them were asked to solve the
same mental calculations (stressing situation). When oxygenated
hemoglobin levels were measured, they were elevated in those not taking
soy peptides, while they were lower in those taking them, showing that the
stress-related elevation can be suppressed. Moreover, it was reported that
when levels of cortisol (which indicates the level of stress) were measured
they were lower in the soy peptides group than in the other group.
These results confirm that soy peptides are effective reducing the feeling of
stress
and
its
consequences
(http://www.daizupeptide.jp/english/function/index3.html).
Therefore, Pronalen HS is highly useful for cosmetic products with an anti-stress and relaxing activity.
IN VITRO ASSAY
The effects of PRONALEN HS on cell renewal have been investigated, using the BrdU incorporation
method, on Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts (NHDF).
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NHDF cells were seeded in culture medium and cultured for 24 hours. The medium was removed and
replaced with assay medium containing or not (control) the test compounds or the reference (Epidermal
Growth Factor, EGF). The cells were cultivated for 48 hours and all the experimental conditions were
performed in triplicate. BrdU (Bromodeoxyuridine) was added in the culture wells during the last 24 hours
of incubation.
Conc.
Mean OD 450
nm
Sem
% control
-
0.846
0.042
100
EGF
10 ng/mL
1.263
0.038
149
Pronalen HS
0.00176%
0.0088%
0.893
1.034
0.023
0.026
106
122
Test Compound
Control
Table 2. Cell Renewal Assay with Pronalen HS (OD: optical density; Sem: standard error of the mean)
As can be seen from Table 2, treatment with Pronalen HS produces a 22% increase in fibroblast
proliferation compared to control, which is statistically significant even at such a low dose as 0.0088% of
Pronalen HS (corresponding to approximately 9.7 ng of peptides/mL).
COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
Action
Cell renewal
Hair activity
Anti-stress activity
Active
Soy peptides
Proteins
Soy peptides
Cosmetic Application
-Anti-aging
-Firming
-Healing and repairing products
-Regenerating
-Hair conditioner
-Hair repairing products
-Moisturizing
-Smoothing
-Relaxing
-Anti-stress
-Calming
RECOMMENDED DOSE
The recommended dose is between 0.5% and 5.0%.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Chahal, S.P., Challoner, N.I., Jones, R.T. Moisture regulation of hair by cosmetic proteins as
demonstrated by dynamic vapour sorption –a novel efficacy testing technique. XIV Congreso
Latinoamericano e Ibérico de Químicos Cosméticos & I.F.S.C.C. International Conference. I.F.S.C.C.
Dureja, H., Kaushik, D., Gupta, M., Kumar, V., Alter, V. Cosmoceuticals: An emerging concept. Indian J
Pharmacol., 2005; 37 (3): 155-159 (ref. 7657).
Frei, V., Perrier, E., Augustin, C., Damour, O., Bordat, P., Schumann, K., Förster, T., Waldmann-Laue,
M. A comparison of biological activities of a new soya biopeptide studied in an in vitro skin equivalent
model and human volunteers. Int J Cosmet Sci., 1999; 21(5): 299-311.
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Frei, V., Perrier, E., Orly, I., Huc, A., Augustin, C., Damour, O. Activation of fibroblast metabolism in a
dermal and skin equivalent model: a screening test for activity of peptides. Int J Cosmet Sci., 1998;
20(3): 159-73.
Gálvez, A. F., Chunjiang, F., Porter, J., Kerley, M. Cholesterol-Lowering property of a chromatin-binding
peptide derived from soy. http://www.lunasin.com/Research/tabid/60/Default.aspx
Griesbach, U. et al. Proteins: Classic Additives and Actives for Skin and Hair Care. Cosmetics &
Toiletries, 1998: 113 (11):69-73 (ref. 2858).
Huetter, I. Hair care with depth effects by low molecular proteins. SOEFW Journal, 2003; 129 (1/2): 1216.
International Conference Platform Presentation Preprints. Santiago de Chile, 1999; p: 45-47 (Cong.
2144-2168).
Webs:
http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/ingredient/active/7861832.html
http://www.daizupeptide.jp/english/function/index3.html
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/mmpinhibitors.html
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