Download Guest Information

Dolicha Villas
Guest Information
PG 03
Contents
Important telephone numbers
02
Health and safety
04
About Kefalonia
07
Beaches and coves
13
Distant beaches
18
Cultural sites in the Fiskardo area
19
Car Hire
22
Currency exchange and banks
22
Driving tips
23
Ferry schedules and tickets
24
In-villa dining
24
Marine activities
25
Medical facilities
25
Petrol stations
25
Ithaca
27
Walks
28
Out and about
30
The Greek people
33
Festivals and public holidays
35
Drives
37
The Greek gods
41
PGPage
01
Page
01
01
Important telephone numbers
Andrew Barritt
+30 697 723.4596
Aroma Massage
+30 698 010 5645
Doctor
+30 694 756 1600
Emelisse Hotel
+30 26740 41200
Fire Department
+30 26710 23464
Fiskardo Divers
+30 697 020 6172 Cedric
+30 694 939 3591 Yannick
Lesley Barritt
+30 697 460 5935
Medical Clinic
+30 26740 41213 or +30 693 818 3899
Marine Adventure
+30 694 830 0391 Jamie
Nautilus
+30 26740 41440 ferries and day trips
Police
+30 26710 22200
Real Estate
+30 26740 41431 Nicky Antipas
Taxi
+30 693 736 2341
Weddings
+30 26710 23110 Rachael Antonatos
PGPG
02
02
Page
Page
02
02
Welcome to Greece!
We are delighted to welcome you to Kefalonia as guests of Dolicha Villas.
Our aim is to provide you with a personal yet discreet service, so although
we are always available to you, we have provided some basic information
about the local area in this booklet for you to read at your leisure.
This directory is for use during your stay and we ask you to leave it in the
villa for other guests.
Should you require any further information, please contact either
Lesley +30 697 460 5935 or Andrew +30 697 723 4596.
PGPage
03
03
Health & safety information
Fire safety
All our villas comply with Greek fire safety regulations. Even so, it is important that on
arrival you familiarise yourself with the location of the fire extinguisher and exit points.
Smoke detectors are fitted in all villas and a fire extinguisher will be near or in the kitchen.
In the event of a fire:
1. Keep calm.
2. Make sure everyone evacuates the villa. If possible, help others to leave the villa but
do not put yourself at risk.
3. Leave the villa as quickly as possible, closing doors and windows behind you if you are
the last one out.
4. Immediately call Lesley +30 697 460 5935 or Andrew +30 697 723 4596 who will alert
the emergency services +30 267 102 3464.
5. Do not re-enter the villa to collect anything unless it is safe to do so.
6. If you are able to extinguish the fire yourself, do so ONLY if you are not putting yourself
at risk.
Note
If you are trapped in a room, wet towels placed around the edge of a closed door
(especially at the bottom) will form a fire and smoke block.
In smoke-filled areas keep your head as low as possible; there is likely to be more
breathable air closer to the floor.
Do not use water to put out electrical or cooking oil fires.
PGPage
04
04
Bathrooms
Our bathrooms all have tiled floors, so extra care must be taken when the floor is wet; be
particularly careful with children.
In many Greek toilets you will notice a bin in which you are requested to deposit used
toilet paper, nappies and sanitary items. Our villas all have modern plumbing and septic
tanks that cope with toilet paper, but nappies and sanitary items should be placed in the
bin.
Security and valuables
There is a safe in your main bedroom closet.
Water
Fiskardo relies on desalinated water so it is not advisable to drink tap water. Bottled
water may be purchased in local shops.
Young children
Our villas are child-friendly but not child proof! Please take care to supervise young
children at all times. Areas to watch out for include: uncovered electrical sockets,
balconies, marble floors and swimming pools. Children should always be supervised
when in or around swimming pools.
Swimming pools
Always check the depth markings, do not swim out of your depth and do not dive into
less than 1.5 metres of water. Please adhere to the swimming pool regulations on the
noticeboard near the pool.
Watch out for the sun.
It gets hot in Greece and we spend a lot of time outside, swimming and sunbathing.
Please remember to wear sunscreen and in the first few days limit your sun-tanning
time. Too much sun, too quickly, results in painful sunburn. Besides, you get a better tan
if you take it slowly.
PGPage
05
05
Insurance
It is a good idea to take out insurance that will cover you for medical expenses and
repatriation in the event of an accident.
Mopeds and motorbikes
We strongly suggest that you do not hire a moped or motorbike in Kefalonia; the roads are
narrow and the standard of driving variable. If you choose to hire a moped or motorbike
we recommend you wear a crash helmet, never travel in shorts or swimwear and – very
importantly – check that your holiday insurance covers this activity; most standard travel
insurance policies do not.
A ruined basilica near Fiskardo House
PGPage
06
06
About Kefalonia
Kefalonia has an abundance of unique physical features and natural wonders. Hidden
lakes, wonderful caves, delightful beaches and coves, a beautiful mountain range and
traditional villages all provide an ideal background for a holiday.
The largest island in the Ionian Sea and sixth largest in Greece, Kefalonia is located
between the islands of Lefkada and Zakynthos and across the Corinthian Gulf from
Patras, the third largest city in Greece (only 53 nautical miles away). The Peloponnesian
town of Kilini is even closer. Kefalonia covers an area of 781 square kilometres and has
a coastline of 254 kilometres. From the north of Kefalonia, the island of Ithaca is only
a short boat ride away. The inhabitants of Kefalonia are mainly wine makers, farmers,
shepherds and fishermen. The population is about 40 000.
Kefalonia is a very mountainous island (there are ten peaks that top 1 500 metres) and
has lush Mediterranean vegetation. Evergreen bushes such as holly and oleaster grow
in its soil. Kefalonian fir trees (for which it is famous), cypress trees, arbutus, holly and
lentisk – an evergreen shrub of the Mediterranean region that is cultivated for its resin –
thrive on Mount Ainos, which occupies the largest part of the island. The flora includes
rare flowers, such as the mauve lilies Paeonia mascula-russi, the Poa cephalonica, the
Saponaria aenesia and the Scutellaria cephalonica. Ordinary flowers such as violets and
saponaria also grow there.
Foxes, rabbits, snakes, weasels, ferrets, porcupines and birds of prey all live on Kefalonia,
along with wild horses that live on the top of Mount Ainos, a rare and protected animal
now almost extinct – at last count there were fewer than ten remaining. Of particular
note are two peculiar phenomena: near the Agia Dynati Mountain, some goats and
rabbits have gilt, or silver-plated teeth caused by minerals present in the soil! Another
peculiarity is the local goats that, according to the ancient historian Claudius Aelianus,
could survive without water for sixth months, living only on the humid breeze (this has
been confirmed by modern-day shepherds).
PGPage
07
07
How Kefalonia got its name
There are three versions of how Kefalonia got its name, all of them dating back to
Antiquity. One is that the island was named after Kefalos, grandson of Aeolos, King of
the Winds. He lived on the island of Kefalonia, which Aeolos (his grandfather) named
after him.
Kefalos and his wife, a mortal called Prokris – who was beautiful, humble and faithful
– lived on the summit of Mount Ainos. The mountain was full of wildlife, including wild
horses that Prokris would frequently ride through the beautiful silver pine trees that still
grow on the mountain. Kefalos would hunt very early in the mornings, before Aurora
(the goddess of dawn) had risen. He would always return home before the sun rose and
on his return he would hug his wife, whom he adored and tell her all the stories from
his hunt.
One morning, Kefalos had an unsuccessful hunt and so stayed out longer than usual
to see if his luck would change. When he noticed the sun was beginning to rise, he
rushed home empty handed. By the time he reached home it was daylight and Aurora
had already spotted him and immediately fallen in love.
Kefalos mural in Argostoli
PGPage
08
08
From this moment on, Aurora would appear earlier and earlier on the horizon in order to
meet Kefalos and make him fall in love with her. Unfortunately, Aurora was unsuccessful
and she became increasingly impatient and very jealous watching the love between
Kefalos and his wife. So she started to make plans to separate them. She did this by
speaking to him and making him doubt the loyalty and devotion of his wife.
One day, Kefalos appeared before his wife wearing a disguise and seduced her with gifts
but she had realised who he really was and was so angry that she left and travelled
to Crete and later Athens, where the goddess Diana agreed to help her win back her
husband. She returned to Kefalonia where, while he was hunting, Kefalos saw Prokris
moving behind some pine trees and mistaking her for prey, he killed her.
Another legend claims the island was named after Kefalines of Kefalanes, a nation in
western Greece. Many historians claim that the Kefalines were Odysseus’s people, if this
is true it means his kingdom was in Kefalonia and not in Ithaca, as popularly believed.
Another legend is that the Athenian, Kefalos, helped Amphitryon, King of Thebes, to oust
the Piratical Taphians who lived on the island today called Meganisi, close to Fiskardo.
In gratitude, Amphitryon made a gift of the island to Kefalos, from whom it gained the
name Kefalonia.
Kefalonia has had many different rulers. When the Italians had their turn, Kefalonia,
which is pronounced with a hard ‘k’ became Cephalonia, which is pronounced with a
soft ‘c’. Even today, when the island is very firmly in Greek hands, the names are interchangeable.
PGPage
09
09
Antipata
Antipata is the closest village to Fiskardo and lies on the road to Argostoli. It has three
restaurants, two of which are generally regarded as among the best in the area.
To Pefko offers traditional Greek food with a modern twist and is a good place for lunch
and supper.
Picnic offers excellent breakfasts and light lunches. Liz and Joe, the owners, specialise
in creating high quality picnics for beach-goers. To book a picnic basket phone
+30 267 404 1039. Please see the menu in this directory folder.
Argostoli
The bustling capital of Argostoli (that’s how the locals say it) is located in the southwest
of the island. It is a large and thriving town with an efficient hospital and Kefalonia’s only
airport.
Assos
From Fiskardo drive about 35 minutes towards Argostoli, take the sharp right turn to
Assos, a beautiful village topped by an old castle. The castle dates back to 1585 when
a Kefalonian delegation asked their Venetian rulers to build an additional castle for the
improved protection of the island. It was decided that the most appropriate area would
be the Assos peninsula. The venture did not flourish and the castle fell into disrepair.
In modern times it served as an agricultural prison until 1953. Today Assos is a popular
tourist spot for lunch and dinner.
PG Page
010
10
Fiskardo
Fiskardo cherishes its reputation as one of the most beautiful villages in Greece; strict
laws protect the Venetian architecture of the old houses and ensure that the surrounding
forest remains untouched.
Fiskardo has been inhabited for at least 5000 years.
In Antiquity, Fiskardo was known as Panormos. We know this because in 2005 a plaque
was discovered during excavations for a new centre adjoining the village square. Wording
on the plaque thanks the people of Panormos for allowing the people of Athens to hunt
in the area. The discovery of the plaque resolved a heated dispute over the true location
of Panormos of the Antiquity.
Panormos is mentioned by the fifth century BC historian Herodotus and by the first
century BC historian, Artemidoros Porfirio. It is also recorded in Homer’s Odyssey and
fragments of other ancient records.
In recent times it has been established that Fiskardo was a Roman naval base around
600AD. One day Fiskardo will be the site of a major archaeological investigation, but at
the moment all we have are tantalising glimpses of the ancient past.
A persistent local legend says that Cleopatra and Roman leader, Marcus Antonius (Mark
Anthony) once visited the area, although we can’t find a shred of proof to support the
notion. However, it is true that Marcus Antonius’s youngest son, Gaius Antonius, once
lived on the island while in exile from Rome and it is perfectly possible that Marcus
Antonius visited him during this time. The nearby village of Markantonata is supposedly
named in honour of this visit.
Today Fiskardo is a chic tourist destination, the hub of life in the north of Kefalonia.
It is fine place to dine and do a little shopping; there is a post office, pharmacy and a
medical clinic.
PG Page
011
11
Maganos
Maganos, the nearest working village to
Hilltop Villa and Villa Bernice, is a traditional
Greek village with tavernas that offer Greek
salads, lamb or pork on a spit and other
classic fare. Maganos stands at a crossroads,
convenient for all the local beaches. There is
a store called Maganaros that supplies fresh
fruit and vegetables, Kefalonian wine and
other local products. There is also a wellstocked mini-market.
Percoulari
Percoulari is a tiny village near Maganos; its principal claim to fame is that when Britain
ruled Kefalonia, the governor had a summer home here, chosen for the spectacular
views and because at the height of summer, a gentle afternoon breeze takes the sting
out of the sun. Only four houses are occupied in Percoulari and two of them are ours,
Villa Bernice and Hilltop Villa. From Percoulari, there is easy access to the beautiful
beaches of Alatias and Saint Jerusalem (Agia Yerusalem).
PG Page
012
12
Beaches and coves
The coastline around Fiskardo has dozens of private coves and beaches. Many are
accessible by car but some can only be reached by hiring a small boat. We have listed
some particularly notable spots.
Agia Yerusalem (Saint Jerusalem)
Easy access *****
Dining ****
Swimming ***
Beauty ****
From Fiskardo take the road to Argostoli and when you reach the village of Maganos
turn sharp right at the crossroad in the middle of the village. The road forks almost
immediately, turn right and follow the road downhill towards the sea. When you come
to a T-junction, turn left for Agia Yerusalem where there is a good taverna serving
traditional food. This is a pebble beach where umbrellas and sun loungers are for hire.
Maganos
PG Page
013
13
Alaties
Easy access *****
Dining ****
Swimming ****
Beauty ****
From Fiskardo take the road to Argostoli and when you reach the village of Maganos
turn sharp right at the crossroad in the middle of the village. The road forks again almost
immediately, turn right and follow the road down towards the sea. When you come to a
T-junction turn right towards Alaties. The road takes you to small pebble/shingle beach
as well as a good tapas-type taverna run by Stephano. A perfect spot for cocktails whilst
watching the sun set.
Dafnoudi
Easy access ***
Dining None
Swimming *****
Beauty *****
Dafnoudi is a very beautiful beach that can only be reached by a ten-minute walk along a
stony forest path, or from the sea. The privacy of Dafnoudi attracts those who sunbathe
naked (we note this only to provide fair warning that not all naked bodies are things of
beauty).
From Fiskardo drive to the village of Antipata on the road to Argostoli and turn sharp
right at To Pefko restaurant, follow the road downhill until you see a gravel path heading
into the forest on the right. Follow the path until you reach the beach.
PG Page
014
14
Foki Bay
Easy access *****
Dining ***
Swimming ****
Beauty *****
Foki Beach is an easily accessible beach 1.5 kilometres from the centre of Fiskardo.
From the car park take the road south (keep the sea on the left) towards the village of
Tselentata. When you come to a beautiful olive-tree shaded beach, you’ve arrived. It’s
a good place to snorkel and there’s an underwater cave that can be partially explored.
The little taverna at Foki Beach is cheap and cheerful.
PG Page
015
15
Kimilia
Easy access ****
Dining None
Swimming *****
Beauty ****
From Fiskardo drive towards Antipata and turn sharp right on to a dirt road when you
see a ceramic shop on the left. A ten-minute walk on a forest path leads you to the
beach. This is one of the lesser-known beaches and one of our favourites.
Emblisi
Easy access *****
Dining on the beach * at the Emelisse Hotel *****
Swimming *****
Beauty *****
Approximately half a kilometre from Fiskardo on the road to Argostoli, turn right at the
sign advertising the Emelisse hotel. Follow the road until you reach the beach.
Emblisi is popular with families with young children because the sea is gentle and quite
shallow for a reassuring distance. There’s a refreshment kiosk on the beach and the fivestar Emelisse Hotel that adjoins the beach is a popular spot for lunch. Guests of Fiskardo
House and Dolicha Villa can use a private entry from their villas into the hotel grounds
and walk directly to the beach. The walk takes about five minutes.
PG Page
016
16
Myrtos
Easy access *****
Dining **
Swimming **
Beauty *****
Myrtos has become one of the most famous beaches in the world, and one of the most
photographed. Remember the scene in Captain Corelli’s Mandolin where Nicholas
Cage tries a controlled explosion of a bomb and nearly blows himself up, much to the
consternation of Penelope Cruz? That’s Myrtos.
The long, curved white pebble and shingle beach is dramatically positioned at the base
of chalk cliffs. The beach is coded safe for children but we urge caution because a steep
rake in the seabed combined with strong undercurrents can sometimes take swimmers
unaware. A lifeguard is on duty during July and August.
PG Page
017
17
More distant beaches
Antisamos
This beach, near Sami, is beautiful and well worth a visit.
Avithos
This is a fine, golden sand beach, close to the village of Svoronata. Avithos has beachside
tavernas serving seafood and is very popular with local families.
Lourdas
This is the second largest beach on the island, stretching for almost a kilometre and
linking to other beaches. It is best to enter the sea carefully as the gradient into the
water is quite steep. There are tavernas and a cantina on the beach, as well as sunbed
and umbrella hire. A lifeguard is on duty during July and August.
Makrys Gialos
The beach is the most popular beach in Lassi, a suburb of Argostoli, with many families
being attracted by the good facilities and fine golden sand. A wide variety of water sports
are available here.
Scala
This beach generally attracts crowds in high season; it has a good selection of
water sports.
St. Thomas
This is just a 20-minute walk from Trapezaki. Facilities include tavernas, changing rooms
and showers.
Xi beach (pronounced “see”)
This is a long stretch of red sand, is busy in July and August.
PG Page
018
18
Cultural sites in the Fiskardo area
Fournias Peninsula (close to Dolicha Villa and
Fiskardo House and an easy stroll to the village).
The peninsula is a very important archaeological
site, rich in stone tools from the Palaeolithic era. No
major excavations have taken place here but the
tools are so numerous that accidental discoveries
are frequent. The museum in Argostoli has some of
these finds on display. The most common seem to
be hide-scraping tools: stones with pieces chipped
away and shaped to be comfortable for one of our
far distant ancestors to grip. We have no idea why
the peninsula is such a rich archaeological site but
we’re trying to find out. In the absence of fact, we
like to think generations of scrapers chose to work
there because the views are so beautiful.
Fiskardo’s Venetian Lighthouse
There are two lighthouses on the peninsula and a
keeper’s residence that is constantly threatening to fall down and being rescued at the
last minute, each time looking a little more battered than the time before. The keeper’s
residence is next to a small lighthouse the Venetians built when they ruled the island
between 1500 and 1797. It is extremely photogenic and a tourist must is to climb to the
top and look at the view.
The newer lighthouse a short distance away was built in 1892. It is still in use.
Uphill from here are the ruins of an early Christian basilica and two ruined towers
dating back to 6 AD. This headland offers the harbour’s best vantage point and it is likely
that a temple of Apollo, the God of harbours and sea travel, stood here prior to the
towers and church. Antipatros Sidonios, a second century BC poet, records that he saw
a temple dedicated to Apollo, protector of ports, as he sailed through the Kefalonia–
Ithaca channel. Before Christianity, temples erected in honour of Greek deities were
commonplace. However with the arrival of Christianity, churches were built over such
temples.
PG Page
019
19
Church of Panayia Platiteras
The church is situated above the children’s’ playground in Fiskardo, close to the car
park. Religious buildings have been here from the third century AD. In Byzantine times
a country chapel stood here and then in 1680 a monastery was built on the site. When
earthquakes destroyed the monastery in 1767, it was rebuilt and prospered during the
19th century, giving way to the current church in 1911.
A fresco in the church dating from 1676 has been attributed to Emmanuel Tzane
Bounialis, a priest from Rethymno in Crete, who lived in the 17th century. His work had
a great influence on his contemporaries and on later painters, in both technique and
iconography.
Roman graveyard
This graveyard is located next to the Panormos Taverna on the harbour road leading out
of Fiskardo towards Foki Beach. Discovered by accident in 1973 during road construction,
the graves date between the second and fourth centuries AD. Twenty-seven graves have
been discovered and archaeologists believe there are many more to be found. Among
the finds are four sarcophagi, one made of marble and three of limestone. The carvings
on the sarcophagi depict scenes from Greek mythology and are well executed. Finds
from within the graves can be seen at the Archaeological Museum in Argostoli.
Roman graveyard
PG Page
020
20
Roman tombs
In late 2006, construction workers building a new hotel near the centre of Fiskardo
stumbled upon a perfectly preserved Roman-era grave complex containing gold jewellery,
glass, clay pots and bronze artifacts. The complex measures eight metres by six and is
the shape of a small house. Inside, three burial sites were found including a large vaulted
grave and a stone coffin dating back to the second or third century AD. Archaeologists
found gold earrings and rings, gold leaves that may have been attached to ceremonial
clothing, as well as glass and clay pots, bronze artifacts decorated with masks, a bronze
lock and copper coins. Nearby, archaeologists discovered a remarkably well-preserved
Roman theatre with its stone backrests still in place.
Construction was stopped and the site is dormant, pending a full archaeological
investigation. In the meantime the area is cordoned off.
Ruined Roman watchtower
On the road leading from Fiskardo House
to the main road, stands a ruined tower.
No archaeological research has been
conducted to investigate the structure
but local legend says it is the remains of a
Roman watchtower used to keep track of
shipping movements towards Fiskardo.
PG Page
021
21
Useful information
Car hire
All major car hire companies are represented in Kefalonia and there are also a number
of well-established local companies. The major companies all have airport rental stations
and local companies will deliver and collect cars at the airport. There are two car hire
companies operating from Fiskardo.
To hire a car, drivers must be at least 21 (25 for a jeep) with a minimum of two years
driving experience.
If you are unfortunate enough to have an accident, or if your car is damaged in any
way, it is necessary to call the police to the scene before moving the vehicle. Without a
police report the car hire insurance is void. You must also contact the car hire company
immediately. If possible, take a photograph before doing anything else.
In Greece, fully comprehensive insurance excludes damage to lights, windscreens, tyres,
undercarriages and wheel housings.
You must carry your passport and drivers’ licence along with the vehicle documentation
and licence, which are normally found in the vehicle’s glove compartment or in the
driver’s visor. You will be asked to produce this documentation if traffic police stop you.
For logistical reasons the petrol tank may not be full when your hire car is delivered, so
it is advisable to make a note of the fuel level when taking delivery of the vehicle. On
return, ensure it is filled to the same level. If the car is returned with less fuel, a charge
will be made.
Currency exchange and banks
There is no bank in Fiskardo but there are adequate currency exchange facilities available
at local stores and the post office. There are a number of banks in Argostoli.
There are two ATMs in the village. Cards with Visa, Maestro and Cirrus symbols (including
current account debit cards) are normally accepted with a commission charged for this
service. Instructions are available in English. Please bear in mind that not all cards are
accepted. A receipt will usually be provided.
PG Page
022
22
Driving tips
Driving is a great way to explore the region, but careful driving is essential because the
roads are narrow, mountainous, winding and carry heavy traffic in summer.
Rules of the road
• Drive on the right.
• At roundabouts traffic gives way to the right so be expected to stop halfway round –
this can take one unawares, so be prepared!
• If an oncoming vehicle flashes its lights at you, it means he intends to keep moving and
you should stop.
• If you pass a trail of small rocks or stones in the road, this may mean there is a broken
down vehicle or accident ahead.
• Please take care when driving at night, especially in rural areas where there is little or
no street lighting. Goats often like to sleep on a tarred road at night for warmth and
they don’t have lights!
It is compulsory to wear front seat belts and advisable to use rear seatbelts. The speed
limit is generally 40 kilometres per hour in built up areas, or areas with housing. On open
roads this rises to 60 kilometres per hour but please check local road signs.
The legal drink-drive limit is one small beer or one glass of wine.
The Fiskardo lighthouse keepers residence
PG Page
023
23
Earthquakes
Kefalonia is in an earthquake zone and the island’s recent history is heavily influenced by
a series of earthquakes that took place in 1953. Between August 9 and 14 of that year,
Argostoli was shaken by a total of 113 tremors and aftershocks. The worst took place
on August 12 when mountains slid into the sea and the earth roiled like a rough sea.
Overnight the local economy was destroyed, resulting in mass emigration. The island
population quickly dropped from 120 000 to less than 40 000 and Kefalonia took 40
years to recover. One of the reasons Kefalonia is so unspoiled today is that it was very
sparsely inhabited until recently.
Lessons were learned from the earthquake and today the island has the strictest building
codes in Europe. All our villas are built of steel-reinforced concrete and based on steel
and concrete foundations – they are really strong and solid.
Tremors do occur from time to time – they feel a bit like an underground train rumbling
through a subterranean tunnel beneath your feet and usually last just a few seconds. It is
unlikely you will experience a tremor, but if you do the safest places are inside your villa
under a sturdy table or desk. Do not run outside.
Ferry schedules and tickets
Nautilus, situated on the Fiskardo waterfront, will provide ferry times and tickets.
There are daily ferries between Fiskardo, Ithaca and Lefkada.
Daily ferries to the mainland and Italy leave from Sami.
Hairdryers
You will find a hairdryer in the master bedroom of each villa.
In-villa dining
We can arrange gourmet dining for you at your villa complete with butler service if so
desired.
Children
The Greek people are very fond of children and all local restaurants welcome them.
We offer a baby-sitting service by prior arrangement at all our villas.
There is a children’s activity area with slides and a carousel in Fiskardo near the church.
The Emelisse Hotel, close to Fiskardo House and Villa Dolicha, also has a play area for
children. Children are allowed to be passengers on small motorboats available for hire in
Fiskardo and small life-vests are usually available for them.
PG Page
024
24
Marine activities
Small motorboats licenced to carry up to five
people are for hire in Fiskardo. You do not need
a licence to operate the boats, which are very
easy to handle. They are a wonderful way to
explore the coastline and discover private coves
and beaches inaccessible by road. The boats
are allowed to cross the narrow strait between
Ithaca and Kefalonia and dock at the small port
of Polis Bay, a convenient gateway to the rest of
Ithaca.
Jamie Stirling, a marine biologist, offers a
splendid day on the water in a kaiki (a traditional
wooden fishing boat). He also offers private
charters.
Peter Horn skippers a yacht for day-trippers, usually to Ithaca. Peter also teaches sailing
skills. Peter’s mobile number is +30 694 917 4623
Medical facilities
There is a doctor’s surgery and a pharmacy in Fiskardo that are open until late every day
in summer. There is also a government clinic in the village of Vassilikades, a 20-minute
drive from Fiskardo. A small but efficient hospital in Argostoli is equipped to deal with
nearly every emergency and in critical situations, where extremely specialised treatment
is required, there is an air-ambulance service based in Athens.
Petrol Stations
There are two petrol stations in the area; the closest to the Dolicha Villas is located on
the main road near the village of Konidarata, about a ten-minute drive from Fiskardo.
The other is in the main street of Vassilikades, a 15-minute drive. Please note credit cards
are NOT accepted.
Post Office (EΛΤΑ)
The post office in Fiskardo has somewhat erratic opening hours. If it is closed when you
arrive, check for a notice on the door saying when it will reopen. It is closed on weekends.
PG Page
025
25
Restaurants & bars
There are a wide variety of restaurants and bars in Fiskardo.
Shopping
Fiskardo has a number of small shops including, boutiques, jewellery and souvenir shops.
Stores are usually open from 09h00 to 22h30, seven days a week but, as with all things
Greek, opening times may vary!
There are three well-stocked mini-markets in Fiskardo. Two bakeries provide fresh bread
and traditional Kefalonian specialities.
Several villages in the area have mini-markets but not all of them are well-stocked.
Mainstream shopping and services can be found in the island’s capital, Argostoli.
Telephones and mobile phones
Phone points can be found throughout the area. Public telephones operate on a card
system. Cards cost €5 and may be purchased from the post office, kiosks and some local
shops. You may also be able to purchase “Smile” or “Talk Talk” phone cards costing €5
which offer much cheaper rates. Cheaper call rates apply between 22h00 and 08h00
daily. To dial the UK, prefix the number with 00 44 and omit the zero from the area code.
Mobile phone reception is good in Fiskardo and Percoulari but poor in many other parts
of Kefalonia.
Tipping
Tipping is not as all-pervasive in Greece as it is in some other countries. Ten per cent is
an average tip, but less is not considered rude.
Transport
Taxis are pretty much the only way of getting around without a hire car because public
transport is extremely limited. Prices may vary according to the time of day and the
season and are for one-way trips.
PG Page
026
26
Ithaca
Ithaca is the island you can see from Fiskardo, just
across a narrow strait. We highly recommend a day
trip to Ithaca, which is easily reached by self-drive
motorboats for hire in Fiskardo harbour.
Ithaca is a very quiet island with a peaceful, relaxed
atmosphere and nothing much to do except swim, eat
and sleep. There are some beautiful beaches in the
north of the island that are only accessible by boat,
but there are other more accessible swimming spots
where a good taverna is always nearby.
Odysseus
Ithaca is reputed to be the home of the legendary
Greek hero Odysseus, a champion of the battle of Troy and the central subject of Homer’s
epic poems The Iliad and The Odyssey. No one is really sure that Ithaca was Odysseus’s
home, or even if Odysseus really existed, but the tales are so gripping that people have
been enthralled for thousands of years and inspired to solve the mystery of his origins.
If an archaeologist ever does find the remains of Odysseus’s palace, it will be a major
event in world archaeology, not to mention a massive boost to Ithaca’s tourist industry.
Polis Bay is the closest of Ithaca’s harbours to Fiskardo (and the only one to which you
can take a rented motorboat from Fiskardo). From Polis Bay, a brisk ten-minute walk will
take visitors to the town of Stavros where we can highly recommend a taverna called
Polythemus. If the prospect of a brisk walk on a hot day daunts you, you might want to
pre-order a taxi (see our phone directory). Stavros has a beautiful church and Monica,
the owner of the taverna, will arrange a taxi for you if you are dining at Polythemus.
Monica’s telephone number is +30 267 403 1794.
PG Page
027
27
Walks
There are a number of good walks in the Fiskardo area, suitable for those of average
fitness. The Mediterranean sun can be extremely strong and in the height of summer
temperatures can reach over 40°C so take this into consideration before you venture out.
It is a good idea to wear a hat and to use high factor sun cream, take plenty of water with
you and wear sensible footwear such as walking shoes or strong sandals.
From Fiskardo to Psilithrias and on to Antipata
Level – easy
Distance – four kilometres
Time – 1 hour
On the forest side of Fiskardo village where
the main road skirts the village there’s a dirt
road heading inland. If you have difficulty
finding it, ask the way to the Kastro Club.
Just past the Kastro Club on the right you
will see an archaeological treasure that
the locals call “the King’s Throne”. Local
legend says that this was where the king of
Kefalonia and Ithaca sat delivering edicts to
the people. A more prosaic explanation is
that it might have been a temple dedicated
to Diana. Once you pass the King’s Throne,
The King’s Throne
you are in the forest proper, walking on the
remains of what used to be the only road connecting Fiskardo to the rest of the island.
The path leads to the abandoned village of Psilithrias, once the biggest and most important
village in the area, today a picturesque ruin, although it is now slowly coming back to life.
Once you have explored the village keep walking on the tar road where you will see a
church on the right and the village graveyard, with the tombstones recording names you
still encounter among local residents. From there it’s a gentle stroll to Antipata where
you will re-join the main road. At this point you will encounter Picnic, owned by former
Zimbabweans Liz and Joe. Liz is a wonderful cook who makes excellent breakfasts and
Joe is very welcoming.
Head down the hill and you will soon be back in Fiskardo.
PG Page
028
28
Fiskardo Harbour to Maganos via Evreti & Tselentata
Level: Medium
Distance: 9.5 kilometres
Time: 3 hours
A good starting point for this walk is the Panormos Taverna, at the southern end of
Fiskardo. Adjacent to the Panormos, next to the sea, lies a Roman burial ground dating
to the fourth century AD.
Follow the tarred road leading away from the village. About 100 metres from Panormos,
the road bends sharply to the left next to Eleni’s Beach, a popular and safe swimming
beach. On the shore of Eleni’s Beach are ruins of two Roman villas, complete with
bathhouse.
About 500 metres further on is the tiny shaded beach of Kaminutesakia.
From here, Foki beach is a kilometre away. Foki is a beautiful beach shaded by olive trees
and offers good swimming. There is a taverna next to the beach.
From Foki, the road starts to climb and winds through a dense forest.
After about 30 minutes you will reach the village of Tselentata and shortly after you will
see a road to the left that goes to the sleepy village of Evreti.
It’s a 40-minute detour to Evreti, a tiny village with narrow alleys weaving around the
homes. A steep road leads from the village square to a viewpoint overlooking the islet of
Asteris far below and Ithaca in the distance.
Once back in Tselentata, you follow the road for 35 minutes through the hamlet of
Matsoukata and on to Maganos.
In Maganos there are two tavernas and two mini markets. Turn right at the village centre
and walk downhill for four kilometres to arrive back in Fiskardo. You pass the village of
Antipata on the way.
Asteris
PG Page
029
29
Out and about
If you would like to explore more of the island, here are some places we suggest you
visit:
Fanari
Very close to the capital Argostoli (2.5 kilometres along the coastal road heading west)
is the area called Fanari (which means “lamp” in English – there is a lighthouse here).
Here you will find unusual swallow-holes where seawater pours into a hole and vanishes.
Researchers discovered that water flows underground on a 15-day, 17-kilometre journey,
first to Melissani Lake and then to Karavomilos Lake.
Melissani Lake
Melissani Lake is near the village of Karavomilos. This underground lake, which was
discovered in 1951 dates to the early Hellenistic period. The cave was a place of worship
of the god Pan and nymph Mellisanthi. Archaeological discoveries include the altar of
the god, an idol made of clay and a figure of a woman. According to myth, the nymph
Mellisanthi (after whom the lake may have been named) committed suicide in the lake,
because Pan did not return her love.
During a severe earthquake 500 years ago, a large part of the cave roof collapsed,
opening the lake to the sky. Light falling onto the water creates beautiful green and blue
reflections.
It is possible to visit several parts of the cave by boat.
Melissani
PG Page
030
30
Drogorati Cave
The Drogorati Cave is three kilometres from Sami towards Argostoli on the coastal road.
The atmosphere is magical with stalagmites, stalactites, marvellous acoustics and a big
hall.
Lake Karavomilos
From Sami, head north towards Agia Efimia. In the village of Karavomilos you can see the
Lake Karavomilos. This is a beautiful area, cool, green and very peaceful, a good spot for
a picnic.
Saint George’s Castle
Located southwest of Argostoli, above Travliata village. The first mention of the castle
was made around 1262 and the castle was preserved unchanged from the 16th Century
until it was destroyed in the 1953 earthquake.
During Venetian rule, the castle was the island’s capital, with 15 000 people living there
and in surrounding villages. The castle remained the capital until 1757.
Preserved in the castle and in the small village close to the entrance, are monasteries
and the Church of the Evangelistria, which is a good example of a typical Ionian Island
Baroque church. Within are housed important post-Byzantine icons from many of the
ruined churches around the castle.
Nearby, in the village of Travliata, lies the Monastery of Saint Andreas. This old catholikon
monastery serves as an ecclesiastical museum and contains many valuable postByzantine icons.
Saint Gerasimos
Monastery
There is a well in the monastery,
supposedly dug by Saint Gerasimos.
Inside a small adjoining chapel, is a
trapdoor to a very small cave where
the saint spent many hours praying.
On Saint Gerasimos’s feast day, the
monastery is crowded with pilgrims.
PG Page
031
31
Mount Ainos
This, the highest mountain of Kefalonia,
is densely wooded by Kefalonian Fir
which is unique to the island. As a
result, in 1962, Ainos forest (with a
total size of 28 620 square metres) was
declared a National Park. The park,
which is the smallest of ten National
Parks in Greece, is located on the
north-eastern side of the island and is
1 628 metres at it’s highest point. The top of the mountain offers a spectacular view of
the neighbouring islands of Ithaca, Lefkada, Zakynthos and over to the Peloponnese on
mainland Greece (weather permitting). If you are extremely lucky you may be able to
admire the wild horses of Ainos, a species that is almost extinct. This area is also a place
of archaeological interest, because an altar to Zeus has been discovered there.
Mycenaean graves
Broutzi in Tzannata (just a couple of kilometres from the town of Poros) was an important
Mycenaean centre. The discovery of ancient fossils, tools and vessels show that the area
has been inhabited since prehistoric times and in 1992 an archaeologist discovered a
large, vaulted Mycenaean gravesite with tombs dating from between 1400BC to 1000BC.
Museums
The Archaeological Museum in Argostoli. The museum houses antiquities from all over
the island, ranging from the prehistoric to the Roman periods. It has a remarkable
collection of Mycenaean finds. Some of the most important items are a Mycenaean Kylix
or drinking cup and a Conical Footed Cup, decorated with crosshatched triangles, found
at the Mycenaean cemetery of Lakithra and dating from the 12th Century BC. There is
also a bronze fibula with a bow-shaped row of eight-figured loops. It was found at the
Mycenaean cemetery of Diakata and also dates from the 12th Century BC.
The Natural History Museum at Davgata
This small museum is of particular interest to those who are interested in finding out
more about the local fauna and flora.
Korgialenos Folklore Museum, Argostoli
Located behind the theatre, this museum has displays showing life on the island before
the 1953 earthquake. On display are items such as intricate lacework, needlework and
outfits, local traditional costumes, antique furniture, lithographs and photographs of
Kefalonia both pre- and post- earthquake.
Opening times for museums is usually 9am to 2pm Monday to Friday.
PG Page
032
32
The Greek People
The best place to get to know the locals is in the kafeneion or café where, over a Greek
coffee and a glass of water, the Greeks spend hours in endless discussions.
The centre of Greek society is the family and the centre of the family is the child. Children
are accorded extreme importance in Greek society and parents will suffer hardship to
ensure that their children are well provided for. It is not uncommon for pensioners
to go back to work in order to pay for their offspring’s education. A high percentage
of Greek mothers work and childcare is often entrusted to grandparents rather than
someone outside the family. Care of the elderly is the responsibility of their children and
grandparents often divide their time between their children’s households.
Greek families tend to stay in the same area for many generations and so the majority of
people grow up in a large extended family. For example, in Athens it is not uncommon
for relatives to occupy an entire apartment block. If you have ever questioned the design
of Greek houses, with iron rods left sticking out of the rooftops, the answer is simple:
every Greek dreams of eventually adding another floor to his home for his child to live
in. On the one hand, this acts as a dowry and on the other it secures the proximity of the
son or daughter, even after marriage.
Arranged marriages and the granting of dowries still feature in Greek society, although
they are officially banned. They happen more frequently in rural villages, but even today
many Greeks of the Diaspora return to their homeland in order to enter into prearranged
wedlock. Having said that, the younger generation have ardently embraced a modern
urban lifestyle in which the old conventions play a much less important role.
Greek society has undergone – and is still undergoing – great changes. Since
independence in 1821, Greece has been able to freely pursue its identity as manifested
in its language and religion. But, it has had to cope with endless political and social
upheavals. Membership of the EU sparked a surge of development in Greece and muchneeded improvement in infrastructure. Even today, when worldwide recession coupled
with massive government incompetence, fraud and corruption, has virtually crippled
Greece, most people recognise the benefits of continued EU membership.
There is presently widespread poverty in Greece but Kefalonia has been mercifully spared
the worst, in part because the islanders never really placed much faith in government.
They learned to look after themselves and a lifestyle that often includes a chicken run
and a few sheep ensures that there will always be something to put on the table.
PG Page
033
33
The Greek language
Modern Greek is based on ancient Greek, influenced by a number of contemporary
idioms and dialects. Greek is the oldest living language in Europe; archaeological proof
shows it has a 4 000-year-old oral and 3 000-year-old written tradition.
Nearly everybody in Kefalonia, except in the remote mountain areas, speaks English.
Religion
The Greek Orthodox Church is a strong and conspicuous feature of Greek life. The Greek
Church is repeatedly voted the most trust-worthy organisation in Greece. Given that
the Church has recently been embroiled in billion dollar land scams, this says quite a lot
about other Greek institutions, such as parliament and the justice system!
If you get a chance to see a religious parade, don’t miss it. It’s a festival of Byzantium
jewelled splendour, lavish icons and permeated by the smell of incense.
The Greek Orthodox Church has such an abundance of saints that almost every day of
the year is a religious day in honour of one saint or another. Children named after a saint
celebrate their name day (‘yiorti’) as well as their birthdays – this is a bone of contention
for the children who are named after classical figures (such as Achilles) who have to
make do with just a birthday!
Saint Gerasimos
Saint Gerasimos is Kefalonia’s patron saint and plays a major role in the cultural life of
the community – among other duties, he is the patron saint of the marginally insane!
His name day, August 15, is a public holiday and each year a procession takes place
during which the mummified remains of the saint are paraded through Argostoli. (In
the 1980s there was a big scandal when it was discovered that unscrupulous priests had
been selling parts of the saint’s body to the devout in search of a miracle.)
Saint Gerasimos is honoured again at a festival that takes place on October 20.
Gerasimos was born in 1509 in the tiny village of Trikala Corinthos, in the Peloponnese.
He was a member of the famous and wealthy Notaras family. His ancestor, Loukas
Notaras was the last Grand Duke of the Byzantine Empire.
Gerasimos became a monk and spent 12 years in the Holy Land, then five years on
Zakynthos. In 1560 he took possession of a cave in Lassi, a suburb of Argostoli where
he remained until he founded a monastery in the Omala valley. He died on August 15,
1579. Two years later his relics were placed inside the monastery. His Lassi cave is open
to visitors.
PG Page
034
34
Festivals and Public Holidays
Easter: This is the biggest celebration in Greece and everything closes down from
Thursday until the following Tuesday. It’s a time for families and Greeks travel from all
over Greece and from further afield to be together.
The Orthodox Church calendar is different to the Roman calendar used by the Western
world so only once every four years does Easter fall at the same time in both calendars.
In Greece, Easter can be any time from the end of March to the beginning of May.
March 25: A parade celebrating the end of Turkish rule in 1821, which resulted in
independence.
May 1: May Day celebrations, shops and banks are closed in Argostoli and Sami.
May 21: A parade takes place in Argostoli to celebrate the anniversary of the Ionian
Islands’ union with Greece in 1864. Banks are closed, as are most shops in Argostoli and
Sami.
June 12: Festival of the Holy Spirit, banks and shops closed in Argostoli and Sami.
July 11: Saint Efimia Feast Day. A 45-minute drive from Fiskardo is the beautiful seaside
village of Agia Efimia; on this day a procession of the Holy Icon takes place, in the evening
the streets are filled with music and dancing.
August 9 and 10: Valsamata Robola Wine Festival.
August 15: The celebration of the Virgin Mary: shops and banks closed in Argostoli and
Sami.
August 16: Saint Gerasimos’s Festival. This is an important Kefalonian holiday. Banks and
shops in Argostoli and Sami are closed.
October 20: St Gerasimos’s Festival and name day.
October 28: Ohi Day parade commemorating Greece’s opposition to German occupation
during the Second World War. Greece’s prime minister responded to the Italian demand
for immediate surrender in 1940 with one word; “no”.
PG Page
035
35
Food and drink
In Kefalonia, meals consist of a feast of fresh ingredients, which goes a long way to
explaining why so many Greeks live to a ripe old age. Special mention must be made of
the local honey, which is absolutely delicious, as is the local bread and yoghurt. Bread
and honey and yoghurt and honey are breakfast staples.
Tavernas
Traditionally, you are invited to pop into the kitchen and see what’s cooking, but such
tavernas are almost a thing of the past in Kefalonia. However, around Fiskardo there are
a few tavernas where the owner still ushers you into the kitchen to see what’s on offer.
Food and drink options are becoming rapidly more sophisticated and there are now also
non-Greek-food restaurants offering everything from pizza to Thai food.
Wine
Kefalonia has a flourishing wine industry and its robola and other white wines are
becoming more and more sought after.
Roman Ampitheatre in Fiskardo
PG Page
036
36
Drives
A circular drive to Sami and Agia Efimia and back to Maganos and Fiskardo.
The distance: From Vasilikades it’s 40 kilometres to Agia Efimia and 55 kilometres
to Sami.
Dining: There are numerous tavernas and cafés in Agia Efimia and Sami.
Things to take with you: Hat, sunscreen, swimwear, comfortable shoes, camera and
water.
Description and directions: This drive takes you on one of the most scenic routes
on Kefalonia. By travelling along the remote northeast coast from Fiskardo you will
encounter traditional and historic villages. Then there is the cosmopolitan harbour of
Agia Efimia and dotted along the coastal route between Agia Efimia and Sami, a number
of picturesque and private little bays, ideal for swimming. In Sami you can visit Melissani
Lake and Drogorati cave followed by the glorious Antisamos beach. There is a lot to see
and this excursion could be spread over two days. Head out of Fiskardo through Antipata
heading south through the villages of Maganos, Ventourata and Konidarata.
PG Page
037
37
The next village is Vassilikades – turn left at the T-junction opposite a small petrol station
on the right.
After 500 metres you will pass through the village of Mesovounia – the road forks at two
cafenions, one on the right and one on the left, take the right fork to Agia Efimia.
The next village you go through is Plagia. At the end of this village you will see two
isolated houses on the right; opposite these houses is an old stone building. This building
is actually an old church dating back to the 1800s. The church altar is exposed.
Carry on through the village of Vari and then into Karia. You will come to a junction
signposted left for Agia Efimia and Sami or right for Argostoli: turn left.
About one kilometre after this junction there are some good views of Ithaca. A little
further on lies Komitata. Perched high on a hill, Komitata has panoramic views of Ithaca.
One option at this stage is to carry on through the village and after you pass the last of
the houses take the first turn left before you reach the cemetery. After eight kilometres
you will reach Agia Sofia beach, little known to tourists.
Melissani Lake. Take this turn and in two minutes you will arrive in Melissani. It is well
worth visiting, especially between noon and 14h00 when the sun shines directly over
the lake giving it a luminous glow. There is a parking area outside the cave.
Back on the main road to Sami, about 300 metres past the Melissani turn off, take a
left turn onto a downhill road just before the church. This road ends at an esplanade
lined with eucalyptus trees and to the right you will see the famous Karavomilos lake,
complete with water mill. There is a café here and park benches.
Back on the main road, head left into Sami about one kilometre from here. Follow the
road to the left, heading along the quay of Sami’s working harbour, lined with cafés,
restaurants and souvenir shops. Ahead you will see the entrance to the port of Sami
on the left and to the right signs for “Acropolis of Ancient Same” and “Castle”. Turn
right here and carry on until you reach a T-junction with a left turn to “Castle”. Turn left
onto Dichalion Street. 100 metres past the fire station you will join up with the coastal
road. Go straight on. About 15 metres further on are two more signs: one points right
to the Acropolis of the Ancient Sami and the other left to Antisamos. Turn right here,
being careful on the sharp bends. About 400 metres on you will reach a junction, left to
Agrillon Monastery and straight to the Acropolis and the Castle. Go straight. After 1.3
kilometres you will come to a sign to the right under an olive tree that says, “Castle”.
There is a path next to the sign that takes you up to the ruins of the castle.
PG Page
038
38
A 100 metres further along you can park and walk up to the Castle and Acropolis (about
a 10 minute walk). From the Acropolis you have good views of Sami and Karavomilos,
stretching as far as the northern tip of Kefalonia and the channel towards Ithaca. As
you make your way back from the Acropolis continue driving for 1.5 kilometres towards
Agia Phanentes. There are some beautiful views of the Acropolis on the hilltop, best
seen at sunset. The rest of the route takes you to Agrillon Monastery, 300 metres from
the junction. You will need to open the gate to the monastery: please close it behind
you. After you leave the monastery turn right, then turn right again at the main road.
Antisamos beach is 1.8 kilometres from here.
When you leave Antisamos beach, follow the road signs back to Sami. Turn left when you
reach the Port Authority, and then turn right. Keep going straight. You will see the main
square of Sami on the right and a taxi rank next to it. Turn left at the wide intersection
next to the square, then right, making your way back on to the road you initially came
from. About 500 metres from here is the main Sami T-junction – if you turn right you go
back to Fiskardo, if you carry straight on you go to Drogorati Cave. The cave is an excellent
stop on a hot afternoon. When you leave the cave follow the signs for Agia Efimia, and
take the beautiful coastal road back to the harbour. When you get to the harbour, follow
the road straight as it ascends slightly and sweeps around to the left, passing a diving
centre. Two hundred metres further on you will reach an intersection where a sign points
right to return to Fiskardo via Dendrinata, Neochorion, and Komitata. You can go back
this way to Fiskardo, or take the quicker route via Divarata and Myrtos beach.
PG Page
039
39
Fiskardo to Argostoli and or Lixouri
Distance: Approximately 50 kilometres to Lixouri and 52 kilometres to Argostoli.
Time: 1 hour 30 minutes Road quality: good to Argostili but there are fewer asphalt
roads around Lixouri and many hairpin bends.
Petrol Stations: Konidarata and Vassilikades, Argostoli and Lixouri.
Eating opportunities: Large, varied selection in Argostoli and Lixouri.
Things to take with you: Comfortable shoes, hat, sun cream, swimwear (there are
beaches and coves nearby), camera and money.
Directions and description: This drive takes you along the west coast and into the capital
town of Argostoli, with an option to take a detour via the peninsula town of Lixouri and
catch a ferry across the bay. Argostoli is a bustling capital and the main reason people
visit is for shopping, museums and eating.
Please bear in mind that the shops are open from 09h00 to 14h00 and then from
18h00 until 20h00 on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. Lixouri is predominately an
agricultural region although the main town has a good selection of souvenir shops
and tavernas. From the Fiskardo car park head along the main road towards Antipata.
Keep going through the villages of Maganos, Ventourata, Konidarata and Vassilikades.
Approximately eight kilometres from Vassilikades you will pass the turnoff to Assos, four
kilometres later you will pass a view point for Myrtos beach.
The village of Divarata is five kilometres past this point. Go through this village until you
come to a stop street at the intersection with the main road. You have a choice here:
carry straight on and after driving through a village, you will find yourself on a new road
that climbs over the mountain, depositing you on the outskirts of Argostoli. Or, you can
turn right and follow the coastal road to Argostoli.
If you choose this route, after 10 kilometres you will go through a small village called
Agonas. Shortly afterwards you will see a right turn for Lixouri; turn here and follow
the signs to Lixouri town. A car ferry service operates between Lixouri and Argostoli.
The journey takes 30 minutes. If you decide to go straight to Argostoli, carry on
straight, after 10 kilometres, you will come to a pedestrian bridge that crosses a
lagoon. Turn left just before the bridge and drive round the lagoon and into Argostoli.
Please note you will enter Argostoli on the busy harbour front that has limited parking.
We recommend that you continue on the harbour road for two kilometres until you
see the Lixouri ferry car park. This is a good place to park. If you wish to park on the
waterfront, you have to purchase a parking voucher. These are available at all kiosks.
PG Page
040
40
The Greek Gods
At a time when scientific answers were not yet available, mythology created a means for
people to explain the natural world.
Many myths were created out of real events because of this, mythology is seen as an
invaluable source of information about human development.
Some knowledge of mythology is important to understand and fully appreciate the
archaeological sites and history that Kefalonia has to offer. So, as an example and
an introduction (there are too many to mention here) the 12 Gods of the Olympian
Pantheon are listed.
PG Page
041
41
Zeus
In ancient Greek religion Zeus was the father of gods
and mankind. Zeus was regarded as the sender of
thunder and lightning and was associated with the
thunderbolt.
According to myth, Zeus’s father, Cronus, upon
learning that one of his children would dethrone him
swallowed all his offspring at birth. However, his wife,
Rhea, substituted Zeus’s body with a stone wrapped in
swaddling clothes, hiding the infant Zeus in the Idaean
cave in Crete where he was looked after by the nymph
(or goat) Amalthaea. The Curetes, who were young
warriors, danced wildly around the baby in order to
smother its cries for fear that Cronus would hear them. When Zeus grew up he led the
gods into war against the Titans. Zeus, with his mighty thunderbolts, emerged victorious
and as the supreme god chose to rule over sky and earth. He allotted Poseidon the sea
and Hades the underworld.
Zeus was thought to observe the affairs of men from his exalted position on Mount
Olympus, rewarding good behaviour and punishing evil. In Homer’s Iliad, he is portrayed
holding golden scales during Achilles and Hector’s fight – the scales’ tipping indicated
Hector’s death. He was also seen as the protector of cities, of the home, property,
strangers, guests and supplicants.
The power of this almighty god was manifest not only in battles, but also in inexhaustible
sexual potency, which created perpetual dissension with his wife Hera. A scandalous
catalogue of mistresses is contained in the Iliad. Equally infamous is the list of ruses and
metamorphoses that Zeus used in order to achieve his goal, such as that of a cuckoo
when he charmed Hera, a swan when he visited Leda, a bull when he carried off Europa
and golden rain to captivate Danae. Zeus is the only god whose offspring can be immortal
but even those born to mortal women are all extraordinary and powerful.
Notable among his children were: the twins Apollo and Artemis by Leto; Helen and the
Dioscouroi by Leda of Sparta; Persephone by the goddess Demeter; Athena who was
born from Zeus’ head after he swallowed the Titaness Metis – a most unorthodox birth;
Dionysus by the goddess Semele; and Ares by his legitimate wife Hera.
PG Page
042
42
The largest temples were built in his honour and Zeus was recognised as the Pan Hellenic
god. At his festival in Olympia one had to be a Hellene to participate. It was of utmost
political significance when, later, Macedonian and Roman participants were allowed to
take part.
In art, Zeus was represented as a dignified, mature, bearded man of strong build; he was
seen as a striding warrior with his right hand raised ready to hurl a thunderbolt, or as an
enthroned king holding a sceptre.
Hera
Hera was the daughter of the Titans Cronus and
Rhea, sister-wife to Zeus and queen of the Olympian
Gods. In Homer she is represented as the jealous
and rancorous wife of Zeus, a model of marital
strife rather than connubial affection. Ironically, she
was worshipped as the goddess of weddings and
marriage.
In Olympia, Oenomaus’ daughter, Hippodameia
instituted a festival in her honour as thanks for her
own marriage to Pelops. Every four years, 16 chosen
maidens ran races in the stadium; the prize for the
winner was an olive branch and a portion of the
sacrificial cow.
Although Hera was worshipped as the goddess of consummated marriage and as
protector of the life of women and childbirth, motherhood is the one feature of marriage
missing from her life. She is not portrayed as a devoted mother; instead her womanhood
is restricted to her relationship with her husband. Hera is dangerous, vengeful and
intractable in her rage. She punishes the daughters of King Proetus, who mocked her
image in Tyrins, by condemning them to charge across the Peloponnese like mad cows.
She also drove Lo, her priestess at Argos, mad and Hera even turned on her own husband
and stepchildren. Many and various are her intrigues against Hercules, Hephaestus and
Dionysus. Her cult had two major centres, the sanctuary between Argos and Mycenae,
at Tyrins and on the island of Samos.
In art she is represented as a beautiful and majestic. The animal sacred to Hera was the
cow; the cuckoo and later the peacock were also linked to her cult.
PG Page
043
43
Poseidon
Poseidon was the son of Cronus and Rhea,
brother of Zeus. After the war against the Titans
he was allotted the sea. The Greeks believed
that he was due honour as tamer of horses and
rescuer of ships.
As god of the sea, many of his sanctuaries were
built close to shore. At the same time he was
also regarded as a god of the earth. Natural
catastrophes, such as an earthquake at Sparta
in 464 BC, were considered to be his work.
When such events occurred people would sing
his paean (hymn) and invoke him in the guise of
Asphaleios, the god of steadfastness.
In addition, Poseidon was closely associated with horses. According to myth he was
the father of the winged Pegasus. When Perseus beheaded the gorgon Medusa, with
whom Poseidon had sex, Pegasus and Chrysaor (an armed warrior) leapt from her body.
Poseidon is said to have been able to conjure the magical appearance of horses springing
from solid rock.
Poseidon was also associated with freshwater springs; the great springs at Lerna burst
forth for Amymone, daughter of Danaus after she had sex with the god. His children
were generally giants and grim creatures such as Orion, Antaeus and Polyphemus. Linear
B tablets, Mycenaean writings dating back 1500 BC, also reveal him as the principal god
of Pylos, a Mycenaean settlement in the Peloponnese. In myth Poseidon was the father
of Neleus who became king of Pylos.
In Homer, Poseidon was the embodiment of elemental force: sea storms and earthquakes
were the most violent forms of energy encountered by man and the horse was the
strongest energy that man managed to control.
In art he is frequently shown with fish or a dolphin in his hand, together with a trident.
PG Page
044
44
Artemis
Artemis was the mistress of forest animals and birds
who was fey and wild. Artemis was also the goddess
of hunters and hunting, of vegetation, of chastity and
of childbirth. The best picture of Artemis comes from
the Odyssey when Nausica – playing with her friends
by the stream – is likened to Artemis with her swarms
of nymphs, hunting and dancing in the mountains
and valleys.
Dances by maidens representing dryads (tree
nymphs) were especially common in the worship of
Artemis as goddess of the tree cult – a popular role
in the Peloponnese. Throughout the Peloponnese
her epithets Limnaea and Limnatis (Lady of the Lake)
showed that she supervised waters and lush wild growth with her naiads (nymphs of
wells and springs) in attendance. The beautiful and virginal Artemis also had a darker
side. The goddess was cruel; women who died in childbirth were victims of Artemis.
Service at her temple in Brauron (25 kilometres from Athens and now an important
archaeological site) was regarded as an advance purchase of freedom from the goddess.
When girls reached puberty they were initiated into her cult, but when they decided to
marry, which Artemis was not against, they were asked to lay symbols of their childhood
– toys, dolls and locks of their hair – before her altar. Then they left the realm of the
virgin goddess.
Her cruelty is evident in myth when she demands the sacrifice of Agamemnon’s daughter
Iphiyeneia, in compensation for a stag he had killed in her sacred grove; in Homer’s
Iliad this lead to war. Artemis frequently demanded brutal and bloody sacrifices. At the
Ortheia festival in Sparta, blood flowed when, in an endurance test, young men were
flogged, sometimes to death, before a tourist audience.
Artemis is usually pictured as a lithe young girl, wearing a chiton, (short skirt) and a
girlish hairstyle, carrying a bow and a quiver of arrows.
PG Page
045
45
Athena
Athena was the goddess of wisdom, courage,
inspiration, civilization, law and justice, just warfare,
mathematics, strength, strategy, the arts, crafts and
skill. Her temples are frequently found in elevated
positions in cities. Her most famous temple is the
Parthenon, which dominates Athens. Other temples
are found in the cities of Argos, Sparta, Lindos and
Gortyn.
In modern times, she is closely associated with Athens
to which she, possibly, gave her name. Her birth and
contest with Poseidon for suzerainty of the city were
depicted on the frieze of the Parthenon. According to myth, Metis (wisdom) was Athena’s
mother and Athena was born from Zeus’ head. Another version of this myth claims that
Athena had no mother and Zeus produced her alone. She was associated with birds
particularly the owl, which became the symbol of Athens, and with knowledge.
As goddess of war, Athena wore an aegis (goatskin shield or buckler). In the Iliad she was
ever-present during the struggles and war and was the first to bellow out the war cry.
Beyond this she represented the civilised and intellectual side of war and the virtues of
justice and skill. In the Iliad, as well as being a ferocious warrior goddess, she was the
goddess of good counsel, prudent restraint and practical insight.
Athena was the inventor and patroness of the spindle and loom. During her most
important festival in Athens, the Panathenaea, she was gifted with a peplos (robe),
woven by carefully selected city maidens. She was also the goddess of other crafts such
as carpentry – most famous for helping to construct the Wooden Horse that allowed the
Achaeans to penetrate the walls of Troy and defeat the Trojans.
The olive tree was sacred to Athena, in particular the sacred olive tree on the acropolis
in Athens. In a contest against Poseidon, Athena won by causing this tree to grow while
Poseidon, after striking a rock and producing a salt-water spring, was forced to concede.
Athena was traditionally portrayed wearing a body of armour and a helmet, and carrying
a shield and lance. One of the Seven Wonders of the World was the chryselephantine
(great word; it means made of gold and ivory) statue made by Pheidias of Athena carrying
the winged goddess of victory, Nike, in her right hand.
PG Page
046
46
Apollo
Apollo was the god of light and the sun, truth and
prophecy, healing, plague, music, poetry and more.
He was the son of Zeus and Leto and had a twin sister,
the chaste huntress Artemis.
Apollo was the most influential and revered of Greek
gods. He was the god who made men aware of their
conscience and purified them, presided over religious
laws and city constitutions, speaking to man through
oracles. Terror and death were summoned in his bow
– his most dangerous weapon – but a softer side of
his nature is shown in his other attribute, the lyre.
With the help of Artemis, he killed all of Niobe’s children because she offended their
mother, Leto, by boasting of her many offspring. Achilles died at the arrow of Apollo
and his son Neoptolemos was killed in the sanctuary of Apollo at Delphi. Apollo was also
famous for slaying monsters, particularly for slaying the serpent Python at Delphi.
Music was always present at Apollo festivals: the Pythian festival included a musical
competition. According to the Greeks, the Muses were the daughters of Zeus and
Mnemosyne but Apollo was their leader. Central to his cult was worship as the god
of healing. A magnificent example of Apollo’s worship in this context is the temple of
Epicurean Apollo at Bassae erected after a plague in 430 BC.
Apollo was most famous as the god of purification and cryptic prophecies. Prophets and
seers were under his protection. He was called Apollo Loxias (Oblique) because of the
cryptic and obscure utterances of his oracles, which were often intentionally misleading
and unclear.
In art, Apollo was represented as a beardless youth in perfect physical condition, either
naked or robed, often holding a bow or a lyre.
PG Page
047
47
Aphrodite
Aphrodite is the goddess of the joyous consummation
of sexuality. The noun for sexual desire – Eros – is
taken from her son, the god Eros.
When Gaia’s husband, Uranus, refused to allow
his children to see the light of day, his son Cronus
chopped off his father’s genitals and threw them into
the sea. White foam formed around them as the sea
swept them away and within it grew a maiden. She
was carried by the waves to Cythera and then on
to Cyprus where the gloriously beautiful Aphrodite
stepped onto the shore near Paphos.
Aphrodite was frequently mentioned in epic poetry.
The story of how she outdid Athena and Hera in the
Judgement of Paris and how this led to the abduction of Helen and to the outbreak of
the Trojan War is well known. In the Iliad, Homer described how Aphrodite swept Paris
away from his defeat by Menelaus and brought Helen to him.
Of Aphrodite’s mortal lovers, the most important was the Trojan shepherd Anchises, by
whom she became mother of Aeneas and Adonis. During the Trojan War she tried to
protect her son Aeneas from Diomedes: Diomedes wounded her in the hand and as the
blood flowed he laughed, telling her to stick to love and not to dabble in war.
Aphrodite’s main centres of worship were at Paphos in Cyprus and on the island of Cythera.
On the Greek mainland, Corinth was the chief centre. She was widely worshipped as a
sea goddess and ironically, as a goddess of war, especially in Sparta, Thebes and Cyprus.
In art, the early naked oriental figure was replaced by the representation of the goddess
in long, sumptuous robes and the high crown. Later came the famous representations of
Aphrodite either naked or semi-naked as the embodiment of womanly charms.
PG Page
048
48
Hephaestus
Hephaestus was the god of fire. Unlike the other
Olympian gods, Hephaestus was crippled at birth and
lacked their physical perfection. According to myth,
his mother, Hera, cast him out from Mount Olympus
because he was a disappointment to her.
Hephaestus was an astounding blacksmith and
craftsman. Glorious works of art came from his hands,
including the famous Shield of Achilles, on which he
portrayed the whole world of man. In epic he was
represented in his workshop at the anvil, black with
soot and covered with sweat. In art he was portrayed as a bearded man wearing a short
sleeveless tunic and tight cap on his unruly hair.
Hermes
Hermes was the god of transitions and boundaries.
He was quick and cunning, and moved freely between
the worlds of the mortal and divine, as emissary
and messenger of the gods, intercessor between
mortals and the divine, and conductor of souls into
the afterlife. He was the protector and patron of
travellers, herdsmen, thieves, orators, poets and wit,
literature, athletics, sports, invention and trade. In
some myths he is a trickster and outwits other gods
for his own satisfaction or the sake of humankind
The son of Zeus and Maia, Hermes’ name was probably derived from herms: a heap
of stones used to mark boundaries within the city or as landmarks. People passing the
herms would add a stone to mark their passing by. Pisistratos introduced stone herms to
Athens to mark the midway points between the Attic villages and the Agora. These were
known as hermes and consisted of stone pillars featuring an erect penis and a bearded
head. The earliest centre of Hermes’s cult was on Mount Kyllene in Arcadia where,
reputedly, he was born. At Kyllene in Elis, he was worshipped as a phallus. Hermes was
associated with the protection of cattle and sheep and mountainous border areas. He
was regarded as the god of gain. Anything found casually was a gift from Hermes – a
hermaion – and any stroke of good luck was attributed to him.
PG Page
049
49
In The Odyssey, Hermes was sent to the island of Calypso in order to convince her to
allow Odysseus to leave. In the Iliad, when Achilles continues to violate Hector’s body,
the gods considered sending Hermes to steal the body away. In archaic art, aside from
the herms, he was portrayed as a bearded man wearing a cap and winged boots,
sometimes holding the kerykeion, a winged staff with two serpents twined around it and
occasionally, carrying a sheep on his shoulders. Later, a youthful, nude and beardless
athlete represented him. The most famous masterpiece of this new form is the breathtaking statue of Hermes created by Praxiteles and displayed at the museum in Olympia.
Demeter
Daughter of Cronus and Rhea and sister of Zeus,
Demeter was the goddess of agriculture and more
specifically of corn and grain. In order to define
the picture of Demeter, one must look at the myth
surrounding her. This involves the abduction of
Persephone (Zeus and Demeter’s daughter) by Hades
– god of the underworld. Demeter heard Persephone’s
cries for help and unsuccessfully searched for her all
over the world. As long as Demeter was in mourning
and could not find Persephone the land was barren,
seeds did not germinate and nothing grew. Demeter
had to be appeased otherwise everyone would perish.
It was probably Hermes who brought Persephone
back, but while in the underworld she tasted the pomegranate and so was bound to the
underworld. She was forced to always return and it was agreed that she would spend
one third of each year there. Since antiquity this myth has been an allegory of nature:
Persephone is the corn that must descend into the earth so that it may germinate; her
ascent is the yearly return of the corn. Demeter was primarily the corn goddess but her
domain extended to vegetation generally.
In Sparta she was worshipped as a goddess of the underworld and ancient secret cults
of Demeter – the Mysteria – were found in Arcadia, Messinia and Eleusis. Demeter also
appeared as the goddess of birth, marriage and health. In art she was represented as a
beautiful, mature, woman wearing a crown made of ears of corn. Sometimes she was
portrayed with her daughter, Persephone.
PG Page
050
50
Hestia
Believed to be the daughter of Cronus and Rhea,
Hestia was the goddess of the hearth – the centre of
the house and family. Myth tells us that after turning
down Apollo and Poseidon she vowed to remain
a maiden forever. Zeus honoured her decision by
making her the goddess of all sacrifices.
She was worshipped primarily as the goddess of the home, but as the city communities
were essentially a large-scale family, communal hearths stood in temples or at the town
hall. The hearth was a place for libations and small food offerings.
Hestia was closely associated with Zeus in relation to hospitality and family unity and
with Hermes, contrasting domestic life and business life outside the family home. The
power represented in the hearth never really developed into a person so Hestia was
never seen in the procession of the gods.
Ares
Ares was the god of war and, according to Homeric
epic, the son of Zeus and Hera. As one of the most
unpopular gods in Greece – representing war, conflict
and destruction – even his parents and fellow deities
shunned him. Traces of his worship have been found
in northern Greece and in Sparta. In epic, Menelaus
and the Danaans were followers of Ares; Menelaus in
particular was very dear to Ares and he fought in battle
like the god himself. At Athens there was a temple to
Ares at the foot of the Areios Pagos (Areopagus). In
art Ares was represented as a typical armed warrior,
sometimes on a chariot led by his sons Phobos (Fear)
and Deimos (Terror).
PG Page
051
51