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Marine Science Tank Packet Shedding Some Light on Lighting Aquarium lighting serves many purposes. It illuminates the tank for our viewing, it provides aquarium inhabitants with a natural sense of day and night, and it provides a necessary source of light for photosynthesis in plants and invertebrates. An aquarium with improper lighting can promote algae growth, make fish sluggish, and cause unhealthy plants, anemones, corals, and other invertebrates. The correct lighting will make fish and decorations appear more colorful, plants grow greener and healthier, and marine invertebrates thrive in their aquarium environment. What is the difference between incandescent, metal halide and fluorescent lighting systems and bulbs? Incandescent lighting is most commonly used for lighting your home. Incandescent bulbs used in lamps, desk lights, etc. provide a natural pleasing light, but are only useful for lighting very small aquariums. These bulbs run hot and are not very energy efficient. Fluorescent lighting is the most widely used type of lighting for aquarium use. These energy efficient, cool operating, bright bulbs are available in a variety 01 lengths, wattages and spectral outputs. These tubes can be used to light plant tanks and reef aquariums. When using multiple bulbs, various types can be used together to provide different lighting results. The fixtures for these bulbs are as diverse as the bulbs themselves. There are simple single bulb strip lights, multibulb enclosed fixtures and retro-fit fixtures for placement inside custom tops. Some people prefer to assemble their own fixtures using ballasts, endcaps and reflective sheets. Compact Fluorescents are the next generation in fluorescent lighting. They are comparable to VHO in their output without the high energy consumption and heat. They are extremely energy efficient and have an average bulb life of 14-16 months, resulting in a very cost-effective product. They are single ended making installation simple, and their low profile design allows them to be used in small applications. Replacement compact bulbs come in two styles: European and Japanese. The European design has a 4-straight pin arrangement and will fit Oceanic, All Glass and Perfecto fixtures. The Japanese style has a 4-square pin arrangement and will fit Custom Sealife and most Coralife fixtures. Metal Halide lighting is the best possible lighting available for planted freshwater aquariums and saltwater reef aquariums. These bulbs produce a high quality, extremely bright light. They are available in 4300K (Kelvin), 5500K, 6500K and 10.000K. The Kelvin ratings are a way of measuring the spectral output of the bulb. 4300K and 5500K bulbs are recommended for freshwater plant tanks, 5500K bulbs are used on reef aquariums along with actinic 03 fluorescent tubes and the 6500K bulbs are used on reef aquariums without the need to run actinic 03 tubes. Metal halide fixtures are often designed to hang above the aquarium in order to disperse the light and to reduce the amount of heat radiated to the tank. These fixtures are available in many styles and colors to suit your decor. Metal halide fixtures can also be purchased Algicides Excessive algae growth is one of the biggest complaints from aquarium keepers. It covers our rocks, driftwood and aquarium glass. Agicides are a very effective aid in fighting the battle against unwanted algae growth, but we must also determine the cause of the growth, but we must also determine the cause of the growth in order to stem it permanently. The algae should be cleaned from the aquarium before using an algicide Algicides are not recommended with live plants Below are the most common causes of excessive algae What is the right lighting system for your aquarium? There are four main aquarium lighting situations. A freshwater aquarium without live plants, a freshwater aquarium with live plant a saltwater fish only aquarium and a reef or semi-reef aquarium wit invertebrates and live corals. A freshwater aquarium that does not contain live plants can be sufficiently lighted with a system containing fluorescent tubes designed for enhancing aquarium colors. Incandescent light fixture can be used on smaller aquariums, usually under 10 gallons. When an aquarium is being lit with minimal lighting as in this case, black, brown and other undesirable algae may thrive if water quality falters. A freshwater aquarium with live plants becomes a little more involved. The plants in the aquarium require abundant, quality light for photosynthesis. There are two types of lighting systems that can be used to accomplish this; metal halide and fluorescent. Fluorescent systems are able to provide sufficient light for freshwater live plants. They ran cool and are extremely energy efficient. Full-spectrum bulbs should be used to insure proper light requirements for proper photosynthesis. A multiple number of standard wattage tubes, high output (HO) tubes or very high output {VHO) tubes are be needed in deep aquariums to provide enough light for keeping the aquatic plants healthy. Note: HO and VHO bulbs require a special fixture and ballast to operate. Metal Halide systems provide the ultimate in lighting for aquarium. plants. These intense lights provide high quality lighting without need for multiple fluorescent tubes. These types of fixtures are often suspended above the aquarium to more easily disperse light and reduce heat exchange. When using metal halide light on freshwater aquarium plants a 4300°K bulb is recommended. Saltwater fish only aquariums can easily with full-spectrum and color enhancing bulbs in a fluorescent fixture. HO or bulbs might be necessary in deep aquariums. Always be sure to provide sufficient light for healthy green algae growth, which can be consumed by fish, snails, etc. Insufficient light lead to the growth of undesirable Saltwater reef and invertebrate aquariums require high quality intense lighting systems. Smaller tanks can be lit by multiple fluorescent tubes, while larger aquariums will require Metal Halide and/or HO or VHO fluorescent tubes. Proper photosynthesis can only occur with quality full spectrum lighting, so be sure to use bulbs recommended for saltwater invertebrates. (Improper lighting in a reef aquarium will cause the zooxanthellae in anemones and corals to die and cause the anemones and corals in which they dwell to shrink and die). Always remember lighting on a reef aquarium is just as important as the filtration that is used. 1. Direct Sunlight Is the tank located near a window where it can get direct sunlight? 2. Too Long A Lighting Period The aquarium . light(s) should not be on more than 12 hours per day. If you are keeping live plants or saltwater invertebrates you may wish to keep the light on somewhat longer, but do not leave it on all the time. 3. Improper Lighting Spectrum Are the bulbs you are using appropriate for the type offish, plants or invertebrates you are keeping? (See the section on lighting.) 4. High Nitrate Or Phosphate Levels Algae (especially green hair algae) use nitrate and phosphate as a food source. Be sure to test for both nitrate and phosphate and keep these levels low by doing water changes and using chemical medias to remove them Filtering Facts Aquarium filters are available in sizes and styles to accommodate any type or size of aquarium that you choose. A good filter will provide high water quality for the fish kept in the closed environment of the aquarium, and keep the water crystal clear for your viewing pleasure. To achieve this ideal situation, the appropriate size and style filter must be used. To select the proper filter for your aquarium, you must understand three different types of water filtration; Mechanical, Chemical and Biological. Mechanical Filtration is simply the removal of suspended particles offish waste, excess food, plant matter, dust and other debris from the aquarium water. Most filters provide mechanical filtration byway of a floss cartridge, pad or sponge to trap suspended debris as water passes through it Chemical Filtration is achieved with carbon, resins or other media which remove dissolved waste materials such as organics (fish waste, decaying plant material, etc.) that can cause odors and discolorations of the aquarium water. Chemical medias placed in a filter can also remove toxins, phosphates, nitrates, ammonia and much more. The amount of chemical filtration a filter is able to provide is very important. Biological Filtration is the process in which beneficial bacteria convert organics that have broken down into toxic compounds, most importantly ammonia and nitrite, into far less toxic compounds (nitrate). These less toxic compounds can then be removed by periodic water changes, chemical filtration, or other means. Biological filtration is often overlooked, and yet is the most important type of aquarium water filtration. Most complaints of a cloudy tank are due to a lack of biological nitration. Insufficient bacterial surface area force the bacteria to float freely in the aquarium causing hazy, milky water. Note: The addition of too many fish too quickly can also cause these "bacteria blooms" and are not always from a lack of biological surface area in the aquarium filter(s). There are several different types of filters available including: canister, hanging (power), diatom, wet/dry, undergravel, comer and submersible. Some filters provide only one type of filtration while others provide all three types. If a filter provides only one or two types of filtration, a second filter can be used to supplement the system with the remaining type(s) of nitration. For example, most power filters provide an excellent source of mechanical and chemical filtration, but are often lacking in the biological filtration needed to maintain a fair load offish in the aquarium. An undergravel filter can then be added to provide the high amount of biological filtration that the power filter lacks. The following is a brief description of the types of filters and how they operate: Canister Filters are usually situated beneath the aquarium in the stand. They are available in sizes for aquariums from 20 to 400 gallons or more if used in multiples. The}' provide mechanical and chemical nitration, and many also provide biological filtration as well. Hose intakes and returns connect die tank to the filter and therefore allow the tank to be placed closer to the wall. Canister filters are sealed and force water through the media without bypassing it as in many other types of systems. These filters often offer accessories such as disconnect valves for easy cleaning, filter cartridges for polish cleaning, prefilters for removing plant leaves and many more. Diatom Filters are used for polish cleaning the aquarium periodically, usually once a week. They use diatomaceous earth , powder to filter out particles too small to be trapped by media used in conventional, "fulltime" operating filters. Diatom filters are capable of filtering out material so small that they are able to actually remove parasites such as "ick" from the aquarium water. They leave the aquarium sparkling clean after only a few hours of use. Note: These filters are not recommended for use on a continual basis, they clog very L quickly and require servicing within a short time. A good filter will provide high Water quality and keep the water crystal clear for your viewing pleasure• Power Filters are probably the most commonly used type of filters in the _j aquarium hobby. They are simple to install and maintain, providing both mechanical and chemical filtration. Units are also available with a source of biological filtration. The niters pump high volumes of water and can be used on many different types and sizes of aquariums. Submersible Filters are put in the aquarium water and are ideal for unusual installations where other filters can not be used, or additional circulation is desired. The entire filter is submerged and attached to the aquarium frame or glass. They mainly provide mechanical nitration, but some models do allow the use of small amounts of carbon for chemical filtration. These filters provide very little biological filtration and should be supplemented accordingly. These filters are excellent for providing additional circulation. Undergravel Filters are designed for the sole purpose of providing biological filtration, by circulating water through the gravel bed and oxygenating it for beneficial bacteria growth. They are operated with the use of an air pump or powerhead. These filters do not provide mechanical or chemical filtration and should therefore be used with a canister, power or submersible filter to assure proper water quality. Wet/Dry Filters are the ultimate in aquarium water filtration. They provide mechanical, chemical and biological filtration for both freshwater and saltwater aquariums. Biological filtration is taken to a new plateau by trickling water over a bio-media, increasing the available oxygen for the bacteria and thereby increasing the amount of bacteria growth. Chemical filtration is supplied with section Undergravel Filters Undergravel Filters are designed for the sole purpose of providing biological filtration, by circulating water through the gravel bed and oxygenating it for beneficial bacteria growth. They are operated with the use of an air pump or powerhead. These filters do not provide mechanical or chemical filtration and should therefore be used with a canister, power or submersible filter to assure proper water quality. Wet/Dry Filters What is a Wet/Dry Filter? (Why Wet/Dry?) Wet/dry filters provide optimum biological filtration for aquariums to a wet/dry system water trickles over exposed media (such as bio" bails or other media designed with surfaces that promote bacteria growth) mixing air and water performing oxygenation. This biological filtration and gas exchange occur as the water flows in a thin layer over the media surface where the bacteria grows and oxidation of nitrite and ammonia can occur. Removing these harmful elements from the water is crucial to the health of the aquarium and aids in maintaining a stress free aquatic environment AAquarium Cleanmaintenance Aquarium... is probably the number one factor in determining success or failure in fish keep. An aquarium can have the most advanced biological, chemical and mechanical filtration available and still never be “crystal clear”. Even an Aquarium with the most most complete supplements and additives introduced regularly can not remain healthy for its inhabitants if a maintenance schedule is not set and adhered to. Waste products from uneaten food, decaying plant material and even biological filtration will build up in the system and risk the health of the aquarium inhabitants. These dangerous substances must be removed through water changes, cleaning of gravel and replacing old filter medias. Excessive algae must be removed from me aquarium not only to provide an unobstructed view of your fish, but to also remove the potentially harmful compounds they absorb and may release. Disease spreads rapidly in unkept aquariums in which organic- material is permitted to breakdown. Nitrate levels rise dangerously, algae grows out of control, poisonous gasses can be released and fish may begin to die. Water changes and routine maintenance are essential to every aquarium. The products on these pages were designed by many excellent companies, devoted to providing you with equipment to make routine maintenance as easy for you as it is vital to the well being of your fish. Protein Skimmers Filter Media Facts There; are a large number of filter media available for every type of filter. There are so many, in fact, that it is often difficult to choose the appropriate media. The information below will help you to understand what filter media are designed to accomplish, and how they can benefit your fish, plants and invertebrates. Mechanical Filtration Medias are used to remove varying sizes of free-floating particulate matter from the aquarium water. They are also valuable to prevent chemical and biological media from clogging with debris and reducing their efficiency. There are many forms of mechanical media available, including pads, sponges, floss, micron sheets, etc. Many come in the form of a cartridge designed to fit specific brands and styles of filter systems while others can be cut or shaped to fit any type of filter. Biological Filtration Medias provide a large amount of surface area for the development of beneficial bacteria. These media are placed either in a filter or in the tank itself and provide the ideal environment for aerobic (oxygen rich environment) bacteria to breakdown ammonia and nitrite or anaerobic (oxygen poor environment) bacteria for the breakdown of nitrate. Biological filtration is the most important form of nitration, without the Proper amount of bacteria, ammonia from the accumulation of fish waste will rise until it reaches a level in which fish can not survive. These medias are ideal to add to existing systems in which the load of fish has reached a level too high to be maintained by the existing bacteria. Chemical Filtration Media are designed to remove dissolved compounds that are harmful or undesirable in the aquarium water. Media are available to remove odors, water colorations, , toxic ammonia and nitrite, as well as algae causing phosphates and nitrates. These media are-often placed in a filter bag and then placed in the aquarium filter. The media then removes its appointed compound(s) by one of two methods, absorption or adsorption. Absorption occurs when the unwanted molecules are, trapped in cracks or pores within the media. Absorbtion is accomplished by attracting the Unwanted molecules to the media surface by way of a chemical charge. Both methods provide high quality filtration and are often combined in the form of one media, as is the case with activated carbon. These media can reduce the number of water changes, fish and invertebrates can have a cleaner and healthier environment, algae can be reduced or eliminated, water will be clearer, etc. Protein skimmers, also known as foam fractionators, remove dissolved organic material from your marine aquarium. This is accomplished through mixing air and saltwater together using either a fine pore airstone or an air mixing valve called a venturi. Water is passed through a contact chamber where air is mixed to form fine foam. Dissolved organics (proteins) attach to these small air bubbles in the contact chamber and rise to the surface of the Contact chamber. These compounds concentrate at the surface and are pushed up a riser tube and into a collection cup where they can be discarded. When left in the water, these materials, are mineralized into toxic nitrogen compounds. These nitrogen compounds must . be removed by water changes, chemical medias or most importantly through biological filtration. When biologically filtered, the nitrogen compounds end up in the form of nitrate and phosphate. High nitrate levels in the aquarium cause stress to fish and invertebrates. High nitrates and phosphates also cause algae problems. A protein skimmer will reduce the number of water changes by controlling nitrate and phosphate levels. A skimmer will make water clearer and healthier for fish and invertebrates. A skimmer will remove toxins, surface film, and more. Always be sure to purchase a skimmer that is appropriately sized for your aquarium. Most skimmers do not include pumps, tubing or other necessary accessories for installation. Be sure to check with our knowledgeable sales staff. Testing Equipment ---------------------------------------------------------------------.Highlevels 01 mnaLt; turn jjuuojjua^ ^, ^.-™ „„ Water Chemistry is imperative to the health of your aquarium. High levels of nitrite and phosphate can cause algae growth. High Ammonia and nitrite causes cloudy water and unhealthy fish. Incorrect pH will stress fish, which causes infections and disease. These problems can be detected and corrected by testing your water. A variety of kits and devices are available to test your water parameters. Recommended Kits Freshwater: Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, pH, GH/KH. Saltwater (fish only): Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, pH, Alkalinity. .-.••: Saltwater Reef Aquarium: Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, pH, Alkalinity, Calcium. : Additional Kits: Phosphate - optional test for fresh and saltwater algae problems;.••: Iron- a certain amount is needed for live plants or macroalgae; Copper - if using a copper medication. Biological Supplements Biological conditioners add beneficial nitrifying bacteria to the aquarium when initially setting up an aquarium, during water changes, filter maintenance or after power outages. Adding these prepared cultures directly to the aquarium reduces "cycling time," by a number of weeks. Water Conditioners Chemical conditioners are used to remove chlorine, heavy metals and other contaminants from tap or aquarium water. They can also add a protective slime coating to fish during transport, water changes or other stressful situations. pH Regulators & Buffers (Fresh & Saltwater) Proper pH Use Proper pH whenever setting up a new aquarium, adjusting the pH of existing aquariums or adjusting pH during water changes. Proper pH automatically sets aquarium pH, neutralizes chlorine in tap water, adds aloe vera to help heal skin wounds and torn fins, adds needed electrolytes and detoxifies heavy metals. pH Buffers and Regulators Aquarium pH is extremely important to good fish health. Fluctuations or improper levels will promote disease and death of fish. pH levels can be maintained with the use of buffers added to the aquarium water. Be sure to test alkalinity (KH or carbonate hardness) levels when preventing a pH drop (especially in marine reef aquariums). If the aquariums alkalinity drops, the pH will soon begin to drop as well. Keeping aquarium gravel clean, changing filter cartridges regularly, removing decaying algae and plant leaves will help prevent severe pH drops. If mere is a problem with a pH level that is too high, an acid buffer should be used (freshwater aquariums only) to maintain proper levels. It is best to keep fish that do well in the pH of the water you are using. pH levels that are +/- .5 than desired can be difficult to maintain, without the use of a reverse osmosis or deionizer unit. pH adjusters and buffers are available in liquid, powder or tablet form. All are equally effective. Be sure to follow manufacturer directions, levels should not be changed too quickly when fish are in the aquarium. Fluctuations, as previously mentioned, are dangerous. Iodine and Iodide: Iodine is important to soft corals, macro-algae and crustaceans in marine aquariums. Vital to shrimp during the molting process. Strontium and Molybdenum The strontium and molybdenum combination of essential elements aid in the processing of calcium by invertebrates in marine aquariums. Corals detaching from their skeletons is usually a sign that these elements are needed. 0-_ Reverse Osmosis & Deionizers You would be amazed at the dissolved metals and other nasty contaminants that are present in your tap water, and even in some filtered water! The only way to be sure that your water is absolutely safe for your fish is to filter it yourself. Two technologies, an R.O. Unit or a Deionizer, are now available to properly filter your water, removing up to 98% of heavy metals like lead, mercury, and copper, leaving you with pure, clean, simple H2O. What is an R.O. Unit? An R.O. Unit is a special water filter that usually hooks right up to your faucet. A prefilter takes out large particles and chlorine before it gets to the special membrane filter. This membrane filter acts like the membranes in our body's cells. Only tiny oxygen and water molecules are small enough to pass through this membrane. Larger particles, like dissolved lead, mercury or other metals, as well as dissolved organic wastes, are too big to get through this membrane. The water that you get out of an R.O. unit is about as pure as water can be! Won't an R.O. Unit take out all the good minerals, too? Most of the beneficial minerals in regular water, like calcium and magnesium, come from ground up rock and are not in the proper form to be absorbed by your fish. By using an R.O. Unit, you can be sure that your water is pure and uncontaminated, and you can then add the proper vitamins and minerals from supplements made to be absorbed by fish. You can control the nutrients in your aquarium, no need to worry about too much calcium or wasted nutrients. What is the difference between TFC and CTA membrane R.O. Units? TFC stands for Thin Film Composite. This is a NASA designed membrane that is bacteria resistant and can be used with chlorinated or non-chlorinated water sources. CTA stands for Cellulose Triacetate. This membrane is organic in nature and should only be used on chlorinated water sources as mold and bacteria can damage it. How do I choose the right R.O. Unit? R.O. units are usually sold by the type of membrane they use and the amount of water they produce in one day. If you have a larger tank, you will probably want an R.O. unit that produces a larger amount of water per day so that enough water will be available when you are ready to perform water changes and maintenance. For instance, if you have a 100 gallon tank, a twenty percent water change requires 20 new gallons of water. You would need to make sure you purchase an R.O. unit that will produce at least twenty gallons in one day, although choosing one . with a higher gallon per day output is a good idea in case of emergencies. If your water supply doesn't have the proper water pressure, you may need to purchase a separate pump to insure the water flows through the R.O. unit efficiently. The membrane you will need is determined by whether your source water is chlorinated or non-chlorinated. TFC membranes work for both non- and chlorinated water sources while CTA membranes are for use with chlorinated-only water sources. Why do I need an R.O. Unit? If you know your tap water is not the best quality for your fish, or even if you aren't sure about your water qualify, an R.O. unit is the only way to be sure. They are relatively easy to use; they hook right up to your faucet. R.O. water is absolutely safe for drinking (many people use them for this purpose alone), and any waste water from an R.O. unit can be recycled to water plants or for any type of yard maintenance. An R.O. Unit will save you money if you are currently purchasing bottled water. The filter membrane lasts 3-4 years, and any pre-filters usually cost around $4 and can be changed about every month. If you have any concerns that your water source may not be the best for your aquarium investment, an R.O. Unit will take care of that concern for sure. _ i. High