Download OUTLAND 1000 ROV TROUBLE SHOOTING HELP.

OUTLAND 1000 ROV
TROUBLE SHOOTING HELP.
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TROUBLESHOOTING
This document will lead you through the troubleshooting of the Outland 1000
ROV.
This is a first draft and will be updated and downloadable from our website.
NOTE:
As with all electronics do not unplug or plug anything with power on.
Always turn the power switch off when changing any connector status (Plugging in or out).
1) No Video
2) No thrusters
3) No lights
4) All of the above with no High voltage going to the ROV.
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NO VIDEO
NO VIDEO?
1) Is the DVR on and set to TV?
2) Is the Monitor on and set to AV?
3) Is the Hand Controller plugged in?
4) Is there High Voltage to the ROV?
Check the HV light on the front panel.
If no click here.
5) If you have High Voltage and all above are correct then there are several things you can
check.
a) Cycle through cameras from the Hand controller to verify if all cameras are not
working.
b) If just one camera does work then you have a bad camera.
c) If no cameras works then click here.
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PHYSICAL CHECKS
If you still do not have video after the previous check following these tips:
1) Unplug the umbilical and check with a multi-meter the entire Umbilical for Continuity.
a) Check for shorts and proper resistance.
2) If the check show the umbilical is OK then you may have to open the ROV bottle to
make sure nothing came unplugged.
a) You do not need to remove the bottle from the ROV to do this task.
b) To make it easier you could loosen the hose clamp and cut the 2 cable ties that
hold the 2 bundles of wires on the
lower brace of the frame. This will allow you to pull the bottle out farther
without have to unplug the inside end cap.
c) Remove the tape from the end cap diameter. Only so it exposes the seam of the
end cap to housing.
d) Remove the 4 screws that hold the end cap on.
e) Pull the end cap free of the housing. Be careful there are wires connecting the
end cap to the circuit boards
inside the housing. See photo below.
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f) Check all connections inside the bottle to make sure nothing is unplugged
g) If the wires and all other objects are clear from shorting out, connect the umbilical
and test the thruster again.
If all work OK then we can reassemble.
h) To reassemble you either need dry nitrogen or a hair dryer to purge the air in the
bottle before sealing.
i) Check the O ring and re-grease lightly with Silicon grease. Clean all surfaces.
j) Carefully feed the wires back into the bottle and point the connectors in the same
direction as they came off.
k) Purge or blown hot air into the bottle as you have the end cap almost on. Purge or warm
the bottle good and push
the end cap on being careful not to pinch the O ring as you push it tightly into
place.
l) Re-grease the screws and install the 4 screws as you took them out.
m) You can retape the bottle as you took it apart but it's not entirely necessary.
n) Position the bottle so the end cap and thrusters nozzles align and the best water flow
is possible with the lateral
thruster past the many connectors on the inside end cap. Then retighten the hose
clamp.
o) Test all functions and put back in service if all works properly. If not start the
troubleshooting procedure from the top.
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NO THRUSTER CONTROL
NO THRUSTERS?
1) If only one thruster is dead then it could possibly have a shorted Mosfet (Power Transistor).
Do not try plugging that thruster into another thruster cable or it will blow the fuse on that
thruster port also.
a) Unplug the thruster jumper from the thruster. Turn power on and measure the voltage
from pin 2 to pin 3 on the MCIL5F connector. It should be 165 VDC.
b)If it is not then the fuse is blown inside the Electronics bottle and chances are the
thruster is bad. If you have a spare replace the thruster and send the bad one back to Outland
for repair. You will then have to change the fuse.
Go to changing fuses by clicking here.
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CHANGING FUSES
CHANGING FUSES:
1) If you find a fuse is blown in the electronics bottle or the High Voltage LIM (Line Insuation
Monitor) is tripping
follow these instructions if you feel your up to the task.
a) You do not need to remove the bottle from the ROV to do this task.
b) To make it easier you could loosen the hose clamp and cut the 2 cable ties that hold the
2 bundles of wires
on the lower brace of the frame. This will allow you to pull the bottle out farther
without have to
unplug the inside end cap.
c) Remove the tape from the end cap diameter. Only so it exposes the seam of the end cap
to housing.
d) Remove the 4 screws that hold the end cap on.
e) Pull the end cap free of the housing. Be careful there are wires connecting the end cap
to the circuit boards
inside the housing. See photo below.
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f) Replace the blown fuse if that is the reason you are opening the bottle. (Should have
spare in the yellow
spares case). If the HV was tripping check all connections to make sure nothing is
shorted.
g) If the wires and all other objects are clear from shorting out, connect the umbilical
and test the thruster again.
If all works OK then we can reassemble.
h) To reassemble you either need dry nitrogen or a hair dryer to purge the air in the
bottle before sealing.
i) Check the O ring and re-grease lightly with Silicon grease. Clean all surfaces.
j) Carefully feed the wires back into the bottle and point the connectors in the same
direction as they came off.
k) Purge or blown hot air into the bottle as you have the end cap almost on. Purge or warm
the bottle good and push
the end cap on being careful not to pinch the O ring as you push it tightly into
place.
l) Re-grease the screws and install the 4 screws as you took them out.
m) You can retape the bottle as you took it apart but it's not entirely necessary.
n) Position the bottle so the end cap and thrusters nozzles align and the best water flow
is possible with the lateral
thruster past the many connectors on the inside end cap. Then retighten the hose
clamp.
o) Test all functions and put back in service if all works properly. If not start the
troubleshooting procedure from the top.
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NO LIGHTS
ROV lights, There are 2 different light systems on the Model 1000 ROV.
1) Earlier versions had 75 watt tungsten halogen lights and are 120 VAC.
These light affect the LIM (Line Insulation monitor system) in the console and could trip the
High Voltage if shorted or has water in the light or connector.
Go to Halogen light trouble for more details.
2) The newer version uses LED light and are 24 VDC.
These lights will not affect the LIM circuit other then it gives the LIM circuit a ground to the
frame when plugged in.
Go to LED light trouble for more details.
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HALOGEN LIGHTS
OLDER HALOGEN LIGHT TROUBLE SHOOTING:
If you find the halogen lights are tripping the High voltage it is entirely possible the
female connectors need to be removed,
cleaned and re-greased. However it is also possible the lights have some moisture
inside them.
1) Unplug the connectors from the lights and inspect them for water or the fact they may
be devoid of any silicon grease.
2) If the have grease in them and look OK then go to item 3.
3) With an Ohm Meter put the meter in the highest resistances scale and check to see if
either small male pin on the light reads
any resistances to the big pin which is ground, If the meter does not move the light
should be OK.
4) If the meter does read anything the lights have to be removed and worked on. Chances
are the connector need only be removed,
cleaned and dried out with a hair dryer. Take the bulb out and just smell the inside
of the connector to see if it is burnt.
If you smell a burnt smell the connector must be replaced. If it smells OK then
Re-grease the O ring, reinstall the bulb
and using the hair dryer, reinstall the connector with bulb. The hair dryer will get
the air inside the light assembly dry
so there should not be any condensation later. This should be done anytime a bulb is
changed just to make sure it stays dry.
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LED LIGHTS
LED LIGHT TROUBLES.
1) The LED light assemblies are 24 VDC. Unplug the connectors and check the voltage at
the connector for the proper voltage. See drawing below.
2) Pin 3 is the control voltage. It varies from 0-24 VDC to control the intensity of the
LEDs. If all voltages are present then the LED lights have failed. It's highly unlikely that both
would fail but they would have to be returned to Outland for inspection.
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NO HIGH VOLTAGE
If the HV light is off:
1) Turn the power switch off then back on.
2) If it shuts off again click here.
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HV TRIPS
IF THE HV LIGHT TRIPS AFTER RESET TRY THESE TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURES:
1) Bring the ROV on deck. Does it still trip?
If it does not trip proceed to 5.
If it does then there is one of 3 problems.
a) Water in the Umbilical.
b) Water in the Electronics bottle.
c) Console has a defective part.
2) Unplug the umbilical from the console and power cycle the power supply. If it still
trips the power supply will have to
come back to Outland. If it stays working the power supply may be OK. Turn off the power
supply and plug the umbilical back in.
3) Unplug the umbilical from the ROV and turn the power supply back on. If it trips then
the umbilical may be flooded. If it does not trip it still could be bad. Plug in the Dummy plugs,
provided, to the ends of the Umbilical and throw into the water. Make sure the water is well
grounded to the console. Turn the console on and if it does trip the umbilical will have to be
tested by a qualified Electronics Tech or sent back to Outland for repair. If it does not trip
then proceed to line 4.
4) Turn off the power supply and plug the Umbilical back into the ROV. If it still trips
unplug all thrusters and retry. If it still trips the only place High voltage is at is inside the
electronics bottle and Jumper cables leading to each thruster and lights. The bottle or jumpers
may be flooded. Inspect all jumpers for nicks or cuts and replace as needed. If all jumpers look
OK the Bottle may have a problem. It may be flooded or have a short in a connector. Open the
rear of the electronics bottle and check for burnt parts or unplugged connectors or water. If
any of those can not be remedied quickly then the Bottle needs to be sent back to Outland for
repair. If it does not trip then plug each thruster in one at a time until the HV does trip. Be
careful to turn the power supply off each time you plug or unplug any connector on the entire
ROV system. If a thruster trips the system replace the thruster with a spare and send that
thruster back to Outland for repair. There is absolutely nothing you can do to repair the
thruster in the field.
5) If the ROV does not trip on deck but does in the water then leave the ROV powered on
and take a short piece of wire or jumper lead and clip to the light bracket. Take the other end
of the lead and touch all thrusters at the prop nut. Then touch each thruster where you see a set
screw on the side of the thruster. try to reach all 6 set screws because all of them or most of
them may be insulated from the thruster body because of the anodizing. If you touch a point
where it trips the HV circuit then the thruster may have a high impedance short to the case and
need to be repaired. Unplug the thruster and install the dummy plug into the thruster whip and
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submerge the ROV to test that is does not trip the HV. If all works OK then replace the
thruster and retest.
6) If none of these tips solve your problem call Outland for help. 985-847-1104
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