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LIVE OAKS GARDEN CLUB December 2014 THE LOG Notes from the President: Wow we did it again! Another wonderful Poinsettia Sale due to our outstanding poinsettia team chaired by Lynda Sterrett and Christina Allen, all those who sold plants, and those who worked so very long and hard on delivery day. Great job everyone! We all have many plans over the holiday season: parties to attend or give, shopping, baking, greeting cards to send, and maybe traveling to see friends and family. There will be no December formal meeting. However, I do hope that you will attend the Live Oaks Garden Club High Tea on Monday afternoon December 15th at 3:30 pm. Please note the time change. The information about our fabulous trip to The Jacksonville Botanical Gardens is also in this Newsletter. This will be a great outing for everyone. I wish you and your family a very Merry Christmas and a Happy, Healthy New Year. Sandra Johanek Live Oaks Garden Club’s April 27, 2015, Field Trip On Monday, April 27, 2015 Live Oaks Garden Club meeting will be an enjoyable field trip by bus to Jacksonville Zoo’s Botanical Gardens and Earthworks Garden Center. • A guided 90 minute tour of the Botanical Gardens will be followed by lunch. Each attendee will have a wrap or sandwich, chips, fruit, cookie or brownie and beverage. • After lunch, we will go to Earthworks Garden Center for a brief workshop, have time to explore it and be able to make purchases. There is space for 50 attendees. You may invite friends and family, including husbands, to this delightful event! Complete a reservation form for each person attending. The cost of the entire day is $75. That includes the cost of the Botanical Garden tour, entrance fees, lunch, Garden Center workshop, bus ride, taxes and tips. We will meet April 27 at the Winn-Dixie parking lot (near Sweet Mama’s) at 8:50 a.m. and depart by bus promptly at 9 a.m. We will arrive back at Winn-Dixie parking lot around 5:30 p.m. If you need a wheelchair or motorized scooter for the Botanical Gardens’ tour, contact Jan Lemasters so one can be arranged. Charges for renting a chair or scooter can be found on the jacksonvillezoo.org website. For more information about the Botanical Gardens, see jacksonvillezoo.org and for Earthworks Garden Center, see earthworksgardencenter.com . ——————————————————————————————————————— I will be attending the field trip to the Jacksonville Zoo’s Botanical Gardens and Earthworks Garden Center. Reservation forms and checks must be submitted by Monday, March 23, 2015 to Jan Lemasters, 938 Champney, Saint Simons Island, Georgia 31522. Checks are to be $75 per person and made out to Live Oaks Garden Club Name_____________________________________ Cell phone__________________ Contact in case of emergency: Name_____________________________________Cell phone___________________ Food or bee allergies____________________________________________________ Christina Allen and I would very much like to thank the members of our committee for the exceptional job they have done. We would also like to thank the club members who worked so very hard to make this year's sale a success. Thank you all so very much. Christina Allen and Lynda Sterrett Hospitality We would like to thank Ann Lee, June Sortwell, Mary McCaughey and Connie Shelnutt for the delicious food brought for the November meeting. Thanks also to Sherry Snyder for the beautiful bowl of fruit. The hospitality committee looks forward to serving you at the December High Tea. Kathy Pennington and Sherry Snyder Live Oaks Welcomes New Members Judy Crawford and Ann B. Lee were welcomed as new members at our November 24th meeting! Total attendance for November was thirty-one including two guests and our two new members. You are urged to invite a friend to attend the January 26th membership meeting with you! Deanna Clark and Mary Rutherford Judy Crawford and Deanna Clark Mary Lynch and Ann Lee Website The website liveoaksgardenclubinc.com has been updated and our newsletter “The Log” has been archived. Please be sure to check it out. Pull and save a Tab for Ronald McDonald House. Members are asked to save tabs from soft drink cans, soup cans and other products. We will be collecting your tabs at our November Meeting. Look for our Tab Bag. Island Beautification: Butterfly Garden Thanks so much to Betty Lou Applegate, Rosalyn Thomas and Sandra Johanek for helping Helga Terranova and me get the Butterfly Garden ready for winter. As promised we worked for less than an hour trimming and bagging dieback and making everything look neat. Thanks again ladies. Rose Applegate Trees Our trees still look neat after their clean up. We are waiting on promised mulch from the county to really make them look completed. Continue to check on your tree. Remember Santa is checking his list. Rose Applegate Monthly Drawing: If you have an item to donate for the January monthly drawing please contact Martha Mooney or Nan Marie O’Hara. Caring Sandy Storino is our caring person. If you know of a member who needs a cheery note or card please let Sandy know. Please be sure to share your happy news as well! Gardening Tips: Attached at the end of the newsletter is the handout that Mary Lynch mentioned at her presentation at the November Meeting. Mary also wanted to add a book to the handout. Leaf Manipulation - A Beginners Guide to Working with Leaves in a Contemporary Way by Gail Emmons. Our Speaker Mary Lynch In a nutshell December 15, 2014 January 26, 2015 February 20, 2015 February 23, 2015 March 23, 2015 March 26, 2015 April 15-17, 2015 April 19-15, 2015 April 25, 2015 April 25, 2015 April 27, 2015 Live Oaks Christmas Tea Pruning Shrubs Arbor Day in Georgia, State Wide Ferns Herb Growing and Uses South Georgia Native Plant Symposium, Tifton Garden Club of Georgia Convention, Jekyll Island Garden Week in Georgia, State Wide Cassina Garden Club Tabby and Tillandsia Garden Walk Saint Simons Island Hamilton Plantation Garden Club Plant Sale Field Trip to Jacksonville Botanical Garden Photographs from Poinsettia Delivery Day 2014 Poinsettia Workers ready to roll. Kathy Pennington and Christina Allen unwrapping the carts. Unloading the truck - Dennis Snyder and Guenter Jaensch with help from driver. Lynda Sterrett Bob McCaughey pushing a cart Vic Hayes loading a van HANDOUTS Live Oak Garden Club Demystifying Flower Arranging November 20, 2014 Mary Lynch Long Lasting Flowers How to Make cut Flowers Last Longer Longer Lasting Arrangements Recommendations for Foliage for Your Garden Foliage Plants for Arrangements Websites - Books - Secrets Burping Roses from Mary McCaughey LONG LASTING FLOWERS If you're looking to give the gift of flowers or simply want to buy some for yourself, consider these long-lasting varieties: Zinnia: According to Amateur Gardening, seed firm Johnsons of Suffolk evaluated multiple popular flower species to determine how long they stayed fresh after cutting. Zinnia came out as No. 1, with flowers lasting a whopping 24 days with the water changed every two days. In fact, the company said that the blossoms were "as good as the day they were picked" 17 days into the study. Orchid: These exotic flowers don't just boast an elegant appearance, they also have an impressive life span. While all varieties of orchid are long-lasting (up to three weeks in a vase), cymbidiums are especially robust as they aren't as fragile as other kinds, so petals are less prone to damage. Just make sure to change their water every one to two days and trim the stems. Whenever you spot any faded flowers, pluck them off to rejuvenate the stem's energy. Carnation: There's a reason carnations are such a popular choice. There are hundreds of colors to choose from, they are a budget-friendly bloom, and they can last between two to three weeks. Remember to remove any petals or leaves that hit water level or below to keep your carnations healthy in a vase. Delphiniums: These flowers come in stunning shades of purple and blue, and they'll stay vibrant for up to 14 days as long as you care for them properly. However, ethylene gas can be harmful to these delicate blossoms, so be sure to keep them away from any fresh produce. Chrysanthemums: It's hard to beat these flowers when it comes to a long vase life. Chrysanthemums, which come in almost any color you can think of, can last up to 25 to 30 days. Still, these blooms demand clean water every day. To get the most out of your bouquet, you might also want to trim their stems on a daily basis, too. Since you'll be trimming them so often, it's wise to go for chrysanthemums with long stems. Alstroemeria: Whether pink, orange, white or purple, these breathtaking blossoms are relatively hardy. In fact, they will last up to two weeks, and English-grown alstroemeria may last three weeks. Gladiolus: These funnel-shaped flowers will brighten up your home for up to 10 days or more. However, they are a thirsty variety, so you need to keep an eye on the water level to make sure they are sufficiently hydrated. Strelitzia: Also commonly known as "birds of paradise," this tropical and eccentric flower has oddlyshaped petals and thick, tall stems - but that's not the only unusual thing about them. They can also stay fresh in a vase for up to two weeks. Freesia: One of the best traits of these flowers is their unparalleled fragrance. They'll look as wonderful as they smell for seven to 10 days, provided they are watered and tended to regularly. Limonium: These flowers, also known as statice, are a popular choice as a filler in floral arrangements. Why? Not only are these tiny flowers, which are available in a variety of colors, rather striking, but they have a vase life of up to two weeks. This article is brought to you by Michelle Farrell and published by Teleflora. FLOWERS THAT HOLD THEIR OWN OUT OF WATER Need a 1 hour drink each day Calla lillies Carnations Orchids Antherium “Flowers last longer in flower preservative then they do in floral foam.” How to make cut flowers last longer Nothing can brighten up a room quite like a bouquet of flowers - and nothing is more disappointing than when they begin to wilt. Of course, it's inevitable for your blossoms to eventually lose their luster, but there are ways to extend their vase life. All it takes is the right tools and tactics to keep your blooms looking and smelling fresh. Use these tips and your arrangement is bound to bring you joy for far longer: ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ Be sure to cut garden flowers early in the day, when there's the advantage of cooler temperatures and morning dew. Blossoms that are cut on a hot afternoon won't last as long because the heat is dehydrating to the petals. If you're cutting flowers with multiple buds, such as gladioli, Alstroemeria or snapdragons, at least one of them should be opening and showing color. On the other hand, blooms that grow on separate stems, such as chrysanthemums, dahlias, zinnias and Gerbera daisies, are best cut when fully open. Always clean the vase thoroughly before placing your bouquet in it to eliminate any bacteria that could kill your flowers. Gently graze the stems with a vegetable brush to clean them of any debris or bacteria. To prepare the stems properly, cut 1/2 inch off the end at a slanted 45 degree angle with sharp scissors. This will prevent you from crushing the stem and also ensure that the stems can absorb water quickly and effectively. ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ ◦ Splitting the stems 1/2 inch from the bottom with a knife can also aid them in taking up water. When placing the stems into a vase, remember to remove all leaves that will be submerged under water, which will only rot. It's important to put the stems into water as quickly after cutting them as possible to prevent the ends from sealing up. Ideally, the water will be lukewarm to cool and hit halfway up the stems. The best temperature range to keep flowers fresh is around 45 to 55 degrees, so consider storing them in a cooler room in your house. You can even place them in the fridge overnight to help preserve them. Don't place flowers in direct sunlight, which can be too harsh for most blossoms. Additionally, keep them away from heating vents and fans, which can cause them wilt much faster. Many kinds of flowers are sensitive to ethylene gas, so it's best to keep them away from fruit, which releases it. Different flower varieties require various levels of attention, but as a general rule, you should change the water every two days. Varieties that have hollow stems, such as delphiniums, may dry up more quickly, so it can help to fill the stems with water and plug them with a cotton ball before placing them in water. Sugar can help your blooms to last longer by nourishing the stems. So consider dissolving 3 tablespoons of sugar into 2 tablespoons of white or apple cider vinegar and adding it to the vase water. Just remember to add more vinegar and sugar when you change the water every couple days. About 1/4 cup of soda like Sprite or 7Up can also help to boost your blossoms' longevity. To avoid cloudy water, add a few drops of bleach to the vase water. Hairspray doesn't just lock your hairstyle into place, it also preserves flowers. Standing 10 to 12 inches away from your arrangement, spritz a light mist of hairspray on the undersides of the petals. If you drop a penny into the vase, the copper can act as an acidifier to hinder bacteria growth. This article is brought to you by Michelle Farrell and published by Teleflora. LONGER LASTING ARRANGEMENTS Whether you use flowers from your garden or from the florist, follow these tips for keeping flowers looking fresher longer. Before you cut any flowers, prepare the containers and water. Start with clean, sterilized containers or vases. Use a bleach-and-water solution to ensure containers are clean. Sterilize clippers and scissors with a 10:1 solution of water and bleach. Dissolve a floral preservative in water, following directions on the packet. Cut flowers in early morning or in the evening when the stems are fully hydrated. When cutting flowers from the garden, keep stems as long as possible; you can always cut them shorter but you can't make them longer! Cut flowers when they are half open or in bud but showing color to provide a variety of flower textures and to extend the lifespan of your arrangement. Some flower buds, including roses, tulips, irises, and daffodils, will not open if you cut them when they're too immature. Pull the stamens off lilies so the colored pollen doesn't stain the flower or anything it brushes against; use your fingers. Removing the stamens also helps the flower last longer. After the initial cutting, condition your flowers for at least an hour before arranging them. Recut stems underwater or immediately plunge them into water containing floral preservative. Strip the leaves away from any stems that will be submerged in water. Leaves left under water will rot, releasing bacteria that cause flowers to deteriorate faster. Place finished bouquets in a shaded, cool area for the longest life. From: Better Home and Gardens: Flower Arrangements from the Garden Recommendations for Foliage for Your Garden From: The Judith Blacklock Encyclopedia of FLOWER DESIGN Agave americana (century plant) Arachniodes adiantiformis (leather fern) Asparagus densiflorus “Myersli” (foxtail fern) Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern) - different variety found locally Aspidistra elatior (aspidistra) Buxus sempervirens (box) Camellia japonica (camellia) Chamaedorea elegans (parlour palm) Chamaerops humilis (European fan palm) Codiaeum (croton) Codyline fruticosa (ti tree) Cornus (dogwood) Corylus avllana ‘Contorta’ (contorted hazel, corkscrew hazel) Cotinus coggygria ‘Royal Purple’ (smoke bush) Cupressus (cypress) Cycas revoluts - palm Cyperus involucratus (umbrella grass) - papyrus Dracaena glauca ‘Massangeana’ Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo) Dypsis lutescens (yellow cane palm) Equisetum hyemale (snakegrass) (horsetail) Eucalyptus - metions 5 varieties Fatsia japonica (aralia) - solid and varigated Gardenia (gardenia) Hedera helix - (ivy) many varieties, includes variegated Hosta (funkia) Hypericum (St. John’s wort) Liriope gigantea (lily grass) Monstera deliciosa (cheese plant) Myrtus communis (common myrtle) Nephrolepis exaltata (sword fern) Philodendron selloum (tree philodendron) Phorium tenax (New Zealand flax) Photinia x fraseri ‘Red Robin’ (frazer photinia) Pittosporum - several varieties Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) Viburnum - several varieties Grasses - many varieties LYNCH ADDITIONS Azalea - Red and green Citrus Corkscrew rush East Indian Holly Fern Gilt edge silverberry - several varieties Ginger - variegated Ginger - pine cone Holly Fern Holly - several varieties Iris Loropetalum - red leaf Pieris japonica (purity pieris) Foliage Plants for Flower Arrangements Foliage plays a role in a flower arrangement that is as important as the flowers themselves. Your choice of foliage plants helps create the shape of the arrangement, such as using spiky foliage for linear arrangements, large, rounded foliage for mass arrangements, or using a combination of the two to create linear-mass arrangements. Green foliage provides a dark background to highlight the bright colors of flowers. Foliage is typically more affordable than flowers, so using foliage as filler creates a full arrangement without a huge expense. You can find a wide array of foliage for arrangements throughout your home garden. Shrubs Almost any shrub in your garden works well as foliage for a flower arrangement, providing that the shape of the foliage complements the shape and size of the flowers used. Euonymous (Euonymus spp.), cotoneaster (Cotoneaster spp.), boxwood (Buxus spp.) and juniper (Juniperus spp.) are among the evergreen shrubs that work well to add height to linear arrangements. You can also use them to add balance to soft, round flowers in mass-linear arrangements. Leafy shrub plants such as heavenly bamboo (Nandina spp.), flowering currant (Ribes spp.) and viburnum (Viburnum spp.) work well as background or filler foliage for mass floral arrangements. You can even use herb shrubs, such as rosemary (Rosmarinus spp.) and lavender (Lavendula spp.), which add fragrance as well as textural interest. Many varieties of these shrubs are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. Perennials Both non-flowering and flowering perennials hardy in USDA zones 8 through 10 have foliage that works well in arrangements, even after the flowers expire. Canna lilies (Canna spp.) have large leaves, often with stripes and variegation that work well in mass arrangements, either to highlight colored or white flowers. Evergreen ferns, such as Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) and Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), are among the most popular flower arrangement foliage, commonly used as filler in large, mass arrangements or to accent a single stem arrangement. Artemesia (Artemesia spp.) plants, with tall spikes covered with small leaves, work well in linear arrangements or can be woven in wreaths. Instead of using moss to conceal the frog or foam in your arrangement, you can use ivy plants to add green foliage at the base of the arrangement. Trees Both deciduous and evergreen tree leaves growing in a Mediterranean climate can complement a flower arrangement. Evergreen foliage, such as pine (Pinus spp.), spruce (Picea spp.), fir (Abies spp.) and holly (Ilex spp.) boughs, as well as glossy magnolia (Magnolia spp.) leaves, can be used any time of year, but they are particularly suitable for winter or holiday arrangements, especially when used along with berries and red or white flowers. Similarly, fall flower arrangements with chrysanthemums, dahlias, sunflowers or gerbera daisies benefit from the gold, orange and red fall colors typical of oak (Quercus spp.), maple (Acer spp.), beech (Fagus spp.), and sweet gum (Liquidambar styraciflua) leaves. Use these leaves fresh or dry them before creating the arrangement. Tree branches with blossoms, such as dogwood (Cornus spp.) and cherry (Prunus spp.), also add spiky interest for spring flower arrangements. Grasses Grasses work well in minimalistic linear arrangements or can be fanned out as a spiky, spray backdrop for mass arrangements. Foxtail grass (Alopecurus pratensis), giant feathergrass (Stipa gigantea) and tufted hairgrass (Deschampsia cespitosa) add spiky interest in the early stages, but also feature soft plumes at the tips when in flower that can soften spiky plants in an arrangement. Maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis) and Japanese woodrush (Hakonachloa macra) are among the many grasses hardy in USDA zones 8 through 10 with spiky foliage that work well as backdrops for a dramatic floral arrangement. Cattails (Thypha latifolia) feature long grass blades, often with variegated coloring, with the added benefit of a velvety seed head to balance the harshness of the grass. Websites - Books - Secrets YouTube.com “Techniques to Become a Top Floral Designer” - Michael Gaffney - 12 long stem roses “Christmas 2012 Gift Bag Arrangement” - Neil Whitaker “Carnation Topiary Floral Design” - The Flowergod “Ron Morgan Thanksgiving Table Flower Arrangement” “Annie Vanderwarker” - fearlessflowers.com Books - gapines.org The Center of Attention - Ron Morgan - Library In the Company of Flowers - RonMorgan - Library Design Star - Michael Gaffney Fundamental Theories of Design - John Haines, Hitomi Gilliam, Kent Chen The Judith Blacklock Encyclopedia of FLOWER DESIGN – Library Leaf Manipulation - A Beginners Guide to Working with Leaves in a Contemporary Way by Gail Emmons. SECRETS Alum - secret to long lasting hydrangeas - dip stem into; dissolve in water - Michael Gaffney Floralife Crystal Clear Fresh Flower Food Floralife Clear Crowing Glory - spray on finished arrangement to prevent dehydration - Michael Gaffney - the one thing he can't do without Spray artist’s FIXATIVE on cut fruits and vegetables to prevent drying out and pests - Ron Morgan Leaf Shine BURPING ROSES Using fresh roses lay a single rose in water sideways and angle bottom of rose up. Tilt stem up with rose head in water, and cut ½” off from bottom with a sharp knife (never scissors), then submerge. This procedure will prolong the life of a rose which removes air from the stem thus called burping. Burping the air will prolong the life of the rose. Use cool to luke warm water (never cold and never hot). Once the rose burps, you will see the air bubbles release from the stem, and then remove rose from the water and place in a vase with luke warm water immediately. Add Sprite (lemon/lime combination) (no diet soda) use about 3 to 4 ounces. If you have, or can access commercial preservatives, you may add the preservative also. Change water every two to three days. Add preservative or 4 more ounces of Sprite to the fresh water. At this time, cut ½” off stem when changing water. It is not necessary to burp the rose again. This procedure should extend the life of the rose. If any of the outer petals start to come apart, or turn brown, try gently peeling the petal off and proceed around the flower. You will have a new rose extending the arrangement by a few days. If the rose does not burp, it may be because the rose is not totally dehydrated. Another option would be to gently blow into the rose which would open the air way. Mary McCaughey