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MARQUIS SPAS TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE ELECTRICAL ALL ELECTRICAL WORKS TO BE CARRIED OUT BY A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN R.C.D. Wiring Check If a Residual Current Device (R.C.D.) has recently been installed, a majority of tripping problems can be attributed to incorrect wiring of the R.C.D. A clear understanding of the correct configuration is essential. All current spas in the Marquis range require 32amp MCB (motor rated) and 40 amp R.C.D. (30 milliamps). However, if the spa is set up for the heating to be disengaged during massage mode, a 16amp MCB (motor rated) can be used with a 40amp R.C.D. (30 milliamp). Important! Most regional codes state that a main isolator must be located at least two meters away from the spa and should be in clear sight. The R.C.D. can be used for this purpose. If the main isolator is not in clear sight keep it padlocked when the breaker is in the off position. Important! Remember, high voltage is still accessible in the consumer unit although you have turned off the spa R.C.D. R.C.D. Line-in Wiring Check Identify the correct circuit breaker and turn it off. Remove the cover from the consumer unit. Check the main service amperage rating to the consumer unit. From the circuit breaker, locate the brown live wire and the blue neutral wire. From the R.C.D. neutral bar, locate the blue neutral wire and the green/yellow earth wire. Be sure there are no other appliances on the spa circuit. If there are, service must be re-wired to supply the spa only. Make sure all the wires exit the consumer unit via conduit or SWA, routed to the R.C.D. main isolator The brown wire (live) should be connected to connection 1 load in. The blue wire (neutral) should be connected to neutral (N) in. The green/yellow wire (earth) should be attached securely to the earth terminal inside the R.C.D. box. From the R.C.D. box there should be three wires run to the spa; brown (live), blue (neutral) and green/yellow (earth). These wires should connect to the R.C.D. as follows: Brown live wire should be connected to line 1 load out on the R.C.D. Blue wire neutral should be connected to neutral (N) out on the R.C.D. Green/yellow earth is connected to the earth terminal in the R.C.D. Voltage Checks Voltage Checks – Main Isolator / R.C.D. When checking for proper voltage, please keep in mind the acceptable voltage range is +/- 10% of the recommended voltage. Acceptable voltage for 230V is between 207V and 253V. Consumer Unit Voltage Check Set your multi-meter for AC Volts (300V minimum). Make sure the R.C.D. is off. Carefully turn on the spa circuit breaker. At the consumer unit, test the spa circuit breaker between the brown and blue wires. Your meter should read 230V. Test the brown live and green/yellow earth wires. You should see 230V. Test between the blue neutral and green/yellow earth wires. You should also see 0V. Note: If you read any voltage between neutral and earth you have a defective earth. 240V Convertible System Check Be sure the R.C.D. breaker is on. Begin the voltage check at TB1. Test both brown live and blue neutral wires. The voltage should be 230V. Test both brown live and green/yellow earth wires, you should read 230V. Test the blue neutral wire and the green/yellow earth wire, this will show approximately 0V. Peak Load Check It is important to check the voltage again under peak load conditions. To reach peak load, the heater, light, and all pumps (high speed mode) must be on. TESTING THE AMPERAGE DRAW Pump Start the pump(s). Make sure all jets and valves are open. Check the amperage at the black pump wire (low Speed). Compare your reading with the manufacture’s specifications on the pump label. It should be within one or two tenths. Heater When the spa is calling for heat, clamp your ammeter around one of the heater wires; this gives you the amp draw for the heater. Divide the wattage of the heater element by the voltage coming into the spa. This gives you correct amp draw for the heater. Example: 5,500watts / 240 volts = 22.9 amps. TEST THE BOARD FUSE For a Class 2 transformer circuit, TUV requirements specify a fuse must be installed to protect the circuit board. If you have determined the system is getting proper voltage through the power-input fuse, you must then check to see if the fuse has blown (in the past the fuse was soldered to the board). 1. Turn off the power. 2. Test for continuity across the fuse. Tip: Mis-wiring of the spa is the most common reason for this fuse to blow. A lighting strike in the area is a possibility, though less likely cause of the failure. END CONPONENTS Topside Panel Check For any problems you are experening with the panel i.e display or buttons not fucntioning look for any abvious signs of the problem. This can be a cut cable or the connection to the pc board. Once you have determined those items are good the best way to troubleshoot a panel is by plugging in a known good panel. If the problem is resolved the you will need to replace the panel. If it problem still exist you will need to replace the pc board. Heater To test the heater first make sure the spa is indicating that is should be heating, this can be determined via the topside panel: After you have confirmed the spa is indiacating it is heating you wil need to check for 230V at the heater out fo the pc board. Heater Pc Board If you do not have votage at heater check it at the pc board side, if you have voltage at neither postion and the spa panel is idicating it is heating then the pc board is defective. If there is voltage at the pc board but not the heater you have a bad connection or cable between the heater and pc board. If there is voltage at the heater you will need to preform and amperage check to insure the heater is defective. The correct amperage should be in 13 amp range. If you have votlage and no amperage then then heater is defective. Pump Before doing any pump testing insure that all connections and fuses are good. Unplug the pump cord and make sure all the pins are set. Preform an continutity test on the pump fuses: Once you have determined these items are good and the pump still does come on, the easiest way to test is unplug the non-working pump and plug it into the other pump outlet on the board i.e plug pump 1 into pump 2 outlet. If the pump works then you know it is a board or topside panel problem, if the pump still does not work you will need to replace the pump. NOTE: You can check voltage but you will need an analog type of meter that does not have an internal battery. Balboa has snubbers on the board and they will cause false readings when usinig a digital meter. WITH THE PUMP LOW SPEED ON, TAKE A VOLTAGE READING AT THE AMP RECEPTACLE ON THE PCB THIS WOULD TYPICALLY SHOW LOW SPEED VOLTAGE FOR PUMP ONE. (230V) WITH THE PUMP HIGH SPEED ON, TAKE A VOLTAGE READING AT THE AMP RECEPTACLE ON THE PCB THIS WOULD TYPICALLY SHOW HIGH SPEED VOLTAGE FOR PUMP ONE. (230V) Ozonator The ozonators only operate during the filter cycles so to test them you will need to change the filter programming to run 24-hours. Once you have done this you will need to test between the blue and brown wires for 230-volts. If yo have the votlage the ozonator is defective if you do then the board is defective. There is small light that indicates that the ozonator is operating. LIGHTS The lights operate off 12V AC so if all the lights are out you will need to check the light controller or spa light is getting 12V from the pc board. If it is not then the 3amp fuse, pc board or topside panel may be the issue. When pressing the light button on the topside panel you should here a light click from the light relay, if not then try a new panel. If you here the click then check the 3amp fuse for continuity. Replace as needed. The last option is to replace the board. If the light controller or light is getting 12V then that is what needs to be replaced. If only one fo the lights is out then it is a bad light. DIAGNOSTIC CODES The most important aspect of these codes is they DO NOT tell you something is broke in the spa, they only tell you a condition the spa is in. It may be because of a defedtive part but not always. Below we will cover all the codes for the Signature/E-Seires and Celebrity spa lines and list in order the most common to least common cause. RUN PMPS PURG AIR--- (M019) Everytime the spa is powered up, it will enter the Priming Mode, the spa is idle at this point and it allows you to manually turn on the pump(s) to purge the air from the system. The main fuction of this mode is to disallow the heater from coming on before all the air is ecvacuated from the plumbing. This will last 5-6minutes and the spa will automatically start normal operations or you can press the temp button to bypass the wait. ---C The dashing will be displaying until the spa has registered a water temperature. You will see this after the Priming Mode or if the spa is in Rest Mode and has been off for a few hours. Once the pump is running it takes 2-3 minutes to regitster the temperature. TOO COLD This is code for the freeze protection being engaged, this is normal to see on a fresh fill when the water is below 12.5C. The system will run all pumps in low speed, if the has MIRCOSILK it will cycle the pump(s) alternating between running the pump(s) and MIRCOSILK pump. Once the spa is above 21C you will have normal pump control. WATR TOO HOT (M029) This is an overheat code, when the water reaches 43.3C this code will apprear and all spa fuctions will turn off. The system will automatically reset once the water drop below 42.2C. Lack of water flow is the most common cause from this. Slice valves Pump operation Clogged pump impeller Sensor(s) PC Board You will notice I did not mention filters, it is a possibility but very, very unlikley. Tpyically if the filters are dirty you will get a call for poor jet performance before it gets to the put of causing an overheat condition. HTR IS TOO HOT (M030) This is an overhat code, when the water temperature reaches 47.8C this code will appear and all spa functions are turned off. You can reset the system once the water temperature drops to 42.2C. Slice valves Pump operation Clogged pump impeller Sensor(s) PC Board You will notice I did not mention filters, it is a possibility but very, very unlikley. Tpyically if the filters are dirty you will get a call for poor jet performance before it gets to the put of causing an overheat condition. HEATER FLOW IS REDUCED, HTR FLOW FAIL (M016, M017) There is not enough water flow through the heater, the system will reset itself several times and if the reduced flow presist the spa will shut down and you will need to press any button on the panel to reset. Dirty filters Closed slice valve Clogged pump impeller Bad pump Sensor(s) PC Board HTR MAY BE DRY---WAIT--- (M028) This is another low water flwo issue and most commonly there is no water flow, this will happen right after the Primging Mode is there is no water flow. You can press any button to reset the spa. Slice valve Bad pump (check connections and that is plug into the correct socket on the board) PC Board Sensor(S) Again you will see I did not mention filters. SENSOR BALANCE IS POOR (M015) The sensors are not reading the same temperature when the heater is off. You may see this on a fresh fill until all the air gets worked out of system. If it does not correct itself the only two options are: Sensor(s) PC Board SNRS A (M031) or SNRS B (M032) This is code means the sensor is non-functional, it does not they are defective. Loose connection with the sensor to the board (this is 99% of the issue), if this is not the issue reverse the sensor where they plug into the board and see if the code changes. If the codes changes it is a bad sensor if it stays the same it is a bad board. Sensor PC Board NO COMMUNICATIONS (NO COMM) This means there is no communcation bewteen the panle and board. Check all the panel connections first, if it still does not try a new panel, if still down it is a pc board. MEM RSET ---This can only be a PC board. CLOK FAIL (M020) Defective PC board. CNFG FAIL--Defective PC board STUK PUMP (M034), HOT FALT The spa water may be overheater and the board think the pump replay is stuck closed. Replace the PC board.