Download Saving water in your garden

Sustainable living in Banyule
A guide for your garden
Credits
This booklet was prepared in 2008 by the Environmental
Planning team, Waste Education Officers and Bushcrew
of Banyule City Council for the Banyule community.
There is a web version of this booklet on Council’s web
site that is updated regularly and contains more detail on
some topics than there is room for here.
We wish to thank Hugh Butcher for his dedication
in the preparation of the first draft of this booklet.
Thankyou to Ian Moodie, Charles Grech and
Pete Wiltshire for the use of their fantastic photos.
Thankyou to Wendy and Ross Mather from the Food
Farm for compost information.
Hardenbergia
illustration by Jan Smith
Contents
Introduction
2
Garden design
3
Design ideas
4
Mulch
7
Composting
8
Saving water
11
Greywater
13
Sustainable and recycled materials
15
Replenish garden 16
Plant selection 17
Indigenous plants
18
Weeds 26
Weed control methods 27
List of weeds
28
Propagation
32
Vegetable gardening
34
Habitat gardening
36
Environmental groups
39
Further information
40
Introduction
This booklet has been designed to aid change from conception right through
to completion. Key themes of outdoor sustainability are introduced throughout
the booklet giving the reader the knowledge and techniques to achieve change.
A checklist of change can be found in the middle pages to pull out and audit
your work. There is also a list of local resources such as native nurseries and
local businesses that use sustainable products.
You too can:
• Plant indigenous plants to provide habitat
• Change waste disposal practices to return organic matter to your soil
• Save money by reusing materials
2
Garden design
Gardens can provide habitat, play spaces for children, produce vegetables
and be a place to relax or entertain. Consider these when designing.
1.
Visit public gardens and parklands. Take photographs and ask the garden
managers for planting lists. Use books and magazines to find pictures of appealing landscapes. Consider the environmental impact of different types of gardens. Lawns require a lot of water and time.
2. Sketch the shape of your garden from a birds-eye-view. Mark the location
of existing trees, lawn, sheds, paths and other features you want to keep.
3. Look at your garden at different times of day and in different seasons. Locate
the wet and dry spots, sunny and shady spots. Record these in your sketch map.
4. On scrap paper draw the features you would like to add to your garden using
the same scale as your sketch map. These features may include a vegetable patch, a pond, a lawn area, garden beds and trees. Move them around your sketch map considering the location of existing features and conditions.
5. Move around your garden with your sketch map. Imagine the space with the planned features in place. Visualise the views you are creating from windows and the views you are blocking. Imagine how you will move through the space when the new features are in place and make changes required.
6. Use string and wooden pegs to mark out the location of new features.
Measure the size of different zones to calculate the quantity of materials to purchase. Your garden is now ready for implementation but before you start
keep reading. Sections on mulching, weed control and plant selection will help
you proceed.
If you’re still looking for inspiration you may want to adapt the following designs
to your space.
3
Design Ideas
Modern
Garden
Feature
Climber
Pandorea pandorana
Hardenbergia violaceae
Clementis microphylla
Ground Cover#3
Correa reflexa
Correwwa glabra
Lomandra longifolia
Ground Cover #2
Dianella revoluta or longifolia
Lomandra filiformis
Poa spp.
Ground Cover #1
Brachyscome muiltifida
Chrysocephalum semipapposum
Austraonthonia racemosa
Medium Tree
Eucalyptus polyanthemos
Eucalyptus radiata
Allocasuarina littoralis
Small Tree
Acacia implexa
Acacia pycnatha
Shrub
Bursaria spinosa
Callistemon sieberi
Indigofera australis
4
Bushland
Garden
Middle Storey
Tree
Middle Storey
Path
Lawn
Middle Storey
Middle Storey
Middle Storey
Acacia acinacea
Bursaria spinosa
Coprosma quadrifida
Indigofera australis
Goodenia ovata
Correa spp.
Pomademis aspera
Rubus parvifolius
Tetratheca ciliata
Indigenous Lawn
Microlaena stipoides
Austrodanthonia spp.
Dichondra repens
Ground covers
Dichelachne crinata
Chloris truncata
Austrodanthonia caespitosa
Brachyscome muitifida
Kennedia prostrata
Bulbine bulbosa
Arthropodium strictum
Dianella spp.
Wahlenbergia spp.
Leptorhynchos squamatus
Craspedia variabilis
Chrysocephalum semipapposum
Themeda triandra
Lomandra filiformis
Viola hederacea
Pelargonium australe
Trees
Eucalyptus polyanthemos
Eucalyptus radiata
Acacia pycnantha
Acacia melanoxvlon
5
Design Ideas
Cottage Style
Herbaceous Garden
Lawn
Use a great variety of species for
a less formal look. For a formal
look choose only one species
from each level and plant in rows.
Low Plants
Brachyscome muiltifida
Chrysocephalum semipapposum
Bulbine bulbosa
Pelargonium australe
Themeda triandra
Dichelachne crinata
Wahlenbergia spp.
Medium Plants
Tetratheca ciliata
Poa spp.
Lomandra longifolia
Dianella spp.
Correa spp.
Pimelea spp.
Higher Plants
Indigofera australis
Kunzea ericoides (use sparingly)
Goodenia ovata
Acacia acinaceae
Prostanthera lasianthos
Indigenous Lawns
Microlaena stipoides
Austrodanthonia spp.
Dichondra repens
6
Mulch
Mulch stops weeds and holds water in the
soil. Below are some different types of mulches.
Chipped woody vegetation
Lopped branches that have been chipped make fantastic and inexpensive mulch.
Purchase it from tree loppers but ask for mulch free of weedy seeds. Containing
leaves and wood chips, it breaks down gradually, more closely mimicking the natural
leaf litter cycle so it’s healthier for soil dwelling organisms. Spread this mulch to a
thickness of 5 cm on damp soil. Keep away from trunks/stems to prevent rotting.
Wood chips with no leafy material can be purchased from many nurseries. This type
of mulch will last well and look more formal but is often more expensive.
Stones and pebbles
Useful in suppressing weeds in areas where people walk across, stones allow water to
pass through avoiding the run off caused by solid paving. It is important to check with
the supplier that stones and pebbles are sourced from a sustainable location.
Lucerne / pea straw
Mulches with no woody component are useful for vegetable gardens as they feed the
soil, but break down too quickly for other applications.
Recycled or reused materials
Recycled glass and rubber tyre mulches are available in a variety of colours (see page
15). These mulches will not breakdown. They may be useful for no-dig ornamental
gardens and children’s play areas but are not suitable in a bed where digging and
replanting occurs.
Old woollen carpet, newspapers and cardboard may be used to suppress difficult to
control weeds. Woollen carpet (or commercially available jute mat) can also be used
to hold loose soil on a steep slope. They can create a barrier to air and water flow
into the soil below, so only use them when chipped mulch is not an option.
Before spreading the mulch you should remove unwanted vegetation.
See weed control page 27.
7
Composting
Nature’s recipe for recycling
Composting is the process of organic substances (food, garden waste and other
materials) breaking down whilst housed in a large container or heap. Decomposition
is performed by a variety of bacteria, invertebrates and fungi. Once fully decomposed,
the dark soil-like substance can be incorporated into existing soil structures providing
nutrients. Compost needs carbon e.g. dry leaves, paper, straw, and nitrogen e.g. food
scraps, fresh grass, manures. It needs turning for oxygen, water for moisture and a
minimum size area of 1m3.
Composting reduces:
• Rubbish going to landfill & the greenhouse gas methane produced by landfills
• The need to purchase artificial fertilisers
• Water loss in soils
Compost Recipe - developed by Ross & Wendy Mather, Food Farm
The base ingredient is one bucket of vegetable scraps, or fresh grass/weeds add
to this one item from nitrogen column and any two items from carbon column.
Nitrogen
Carbon
1 bucket manure
1 bucket straw
2 cups pelletised manure
1 bucket paper
1 cup blood and bone
1 bucket leaves
1 bucket lucerne
1 bucket sawdust
1 bucket sugarcane mulch
Too much carbon slows decomposition and too much nitrogen smells.
8
Do not add to compost
Glossy paper, treated pine, pet food
& faeces, weeds with bulbs or
runners, lime, large branches, sprayed
weeds, glass, meat, bone & dairy.
Getting Started:
• Set up a small bin (5L) in the kitchen
for food scraps.
• With all house members, make a list
of what can and cannot be composted and stick it to the fridge or the bin’s lid.
Setting Up:
• Obtain a compost bin. Council and gardens centres have many types
available for as little as $35. If you have
the space, try and make it yourself
• Position the compost bin in part sun
• Always cover your bin to stop bad odours and avoid pests.
Aeration:
Speed up decomposition and minimise
odours by turning the compost weekly. Do
not add compost worms they won’t live in
a hot heap. Earthworms will naturally come
in when the heap is cooled. A compost
corkscrew tool will help with aeration.
Shady tree
Tight lid to stop pests
carbon:
leaves
nitrogen:
manure
carbon:
shredded paper
nitroge:n:
food scraps
carbon
sticks & twigs
wire mesh to stop pests
9
Composting
Water:
If dry add water. If wet add dry matter, shredded paper,
autumn leaves, sawdust and turn the heap.
Compost Use:
Compost is ready for use when you no longer recognise
ingredients and becomes dark and crumbly.
Health and Safety
Occasionally, illness and allergies can occur from
exposure to the living organisms in compost. Therefore,
it is important to:
• Always wear gloves when handling compost
• Wash hands after exposure to compost ingredients
• Keep compost moist to prevent airborne spores or
bacteria being inhaled
• Wear a face mask if particularly sensitive
WORM FARMS:
Worm farms recycle fruit, vegetable and garden matter
and are great for small gardens. Keep cool and shaded.
Worm castings are a natural fertiliser that can be mixed
in with your garden’s soil. Purchase worm farms from
garden centres or make your own.
10
BOKASHIS:
Bokashis are ideal for
offices and apartments
transforming kitchen waste
into a soil conditioner.
Odourless, they can be
kept inside.
For more information on
compost see the references
and links on page 40.
Saving water
in your garden
The garden accounts for nearly 35% of a typical household’s water use. There is a
number of water saving techniques that we can use.
For information about current water restrictions visit: www.ourwater.vic.gov.au
RAINWATER TANKS
Rainwater tanks divert rain from your gutter into a storage container. Rain water is
free and collecting it reduces the stress on our storm water system. Melbourne’s
average annual rainfall is 638.8 mm. For every square meter of roofing, approximately
1 litre of water is diverted per millimetre of rainfall, which means the collection
potential is huge! When considering installing a water tank, determine what your
water tank will be used for. For example, a 2,000 litre tank is suitable for flushing a
single toilet. While a 5,000 litre tank is suitable for a toilet and washing machine and a
10,000 litre tank is ideal for watering your garden.
Some Tips on tank installation:
• Locate the tank a minimum of 1m away from boundaries
• Direct overflow into the stormwater legal point of discharge
• Position the tank high up to eliminate the need for a pump
• Make sure the tank’s weight when full is well supported
• Seek professional advise before purchasing your tank
• Is the rainwater tank to be installed for a purpose other than domestic use?
• Will the tank be installed on a property affected by a Heritage Overlay under the Banyule Planning Scheme?
• Will you be constructing a permanent structure to support the rainwater tank?
If you answered ‘yes’ to any of the questions above, or are not sure, a planning
permit may be required for your rainwater tank. Please contact Banyule’s Planning
Department: 9490 4222.
11
Saving water
Council does not encourage drinking of harvested rainwater because mains drinking
water is readily available. However, there are systems available that can treat rainwater
to drinking standards.
WATERING YOUR GARDEN
Drip or Trickle Irrigation Systems
Drip or Trickle irrigation systems apply water slowly to the root zones of plants via a
series of connected plastic or rubber piping. If used under mulch, they minimise loss
from evaporation, wind and runoff.
Deep/Direct watering systems
Products like water saving cones direct water to plants’ roots used in conjunction
with hand watering. The cone is partially submerged in the soil adjacent to the plant.
Home-made alternatives such as AGI piping or soft drink bottles can be used in the
same way.
Other Water Saving Tips:
• Fit your hose with a trigger nozzle. Required under water saving regulations.
• Use rainwater to spot clean the car.
• Avoid using ‘Micro-spray’ water systems the majority of water released can be lost
through wind and evaporation.
• Fit tap timers to irrigation systems.
• Maximise efficiency of irrigation systems by ensuring that watering heads are
pointed in the direction of plants and not paths or driveways.
• Group plants with similar water requirements together.
• Use mulch to reduce evaporation ( see Mulch on page 7 ).
For more information on tanks and rebates refer to page 40.
12
Greywater
Greywater is the wastewater from the laundry and bathroom, excluding
toilet waste (black water). Caution must be taken when using untreated greywater
on our gardens as harmful bacteria, nitrogen, phosphorous and sodium may be
present. Bacteria may be harmful to humans and pets. Detergents may damage soil
structure and permeability. However, by following a simple list of do’s and don’ts
greywater re-use is a safe way to save water, money and maintain a thriving garden.
Do:
• Only use greywater from baths, showers, and washing machines
• Use detergents that are low in phosphorous, nitrogen and sodium
• Check if your plants are healthy: yellow leaves indicate a problem
• Ensure there is no runoff from your property
• Rotate the area of the garden that you use your greywater on regularly
• Turn off diverter during rain and wet periods
• Only apply greywater to the point that the soil can absorb
• Wash your hands after watering with greywater.
Don’t:
• Use greywater on edible plants like vegetable gardens
• Use greywater that has high levels of oil, bleaches, toothpaste or water
from heavily soiled items (e.g. dishwasher, nappies, kitchen sink)
• Use greywater that is warmer than 40ºC
• Store greywater for longer than 24 hours unless it is treated
• Allow greywater to overflow into stormwater drains or neighbouring properties (overflow should be returned to the sewage system).
13
Greywater
(There are three simple ways in which to reuse greywater:)
1. Simple Diversion:
Greywater is diverted to the garden as it is produced. Access greywater by removing
inspection caps on the elbows of the pipes which exit bathrooms and laundries
(located just outside your home’s external walls). Install a suitable diversionary device
or hose to run the water onto you garden or into a below surface irrigation system.
Avoid misting or spraying directly onto foliage. Currently, there are no EPA or Banyule
City Council regulations that govern the diversion of greywater. More complex
installations require a plumber.
2. Diversion and Storage:
Any greywater system that stores water for reuse or treatment is classified as a septic
system and require approval by the EPA and a permit obtained from the Council’s
Health Department. These systems have the advantage of allowing stored water to
be released in response to your garden’s needs.
Untreated greywater can only be held for 24 hours without a permit.
3. Diversion, Storage and Treatment:
Greywater is diverted water from the source (e.g. shower, washing machine etc) then
passed through a series of biological and disinfection treatments with the aid of water
pumps. It can be safely stored for use in the garden, re-use in washing machines &
toilets. Treatment cells usually divert any excess grey water straight into the sewer.
Understanding our impact on our waterways:
All households are inextricably linked to our local waterways through stormwater
drains. These drains carry rainwater, and impurities from our driveways and streets
to our waterway. To protect the health of the Darebin Creek, Salt Creek, Plenty River
and the Yarra, keep stormwater drains free of:
• Leaves
• Sand
• Dirt
• Paints
• Pet droppings
• Driveway gravel
• Solvents
• Plastic
• Plant materials
This will go a long way to keeping our waterways and the habitat they support healthy.
You can also join Waterwatch, a national community based water quality monitoring
program aimed at raising community awareness, understanding and ownership of
water quality issues. Contact Banyule’s Waterwatch Coordinator on: 9457 9885
14
Sustainable and
recycled materials
Hard Materials:
The use of hard materials such as timber, river pebbles and sand can deplete valuable
ecosystems. Be sure to ask whether the product you are interested in comes from
a sustainable source.
The Good Environmental Choice Label is a voluntary label program that helps
identify timber products that have come from approved reclaimed, salvaged and
recycled resources. They have partners in the United States, Asia and are part of
the Global Ecolabelling network.
Forestry Stewardship Council (FSC): Is an international label that recognises products
that incorporate the growth of responsible forest practices.
Recyclable Packaging
Choose products that once used can be recycled. The Banyule Materials Recovery
Facility (MRF) can presently recycle paper and cardboard (not waxed), glass,
aluminium and steel containers and plastic codes 1 - 7.
Many items in and around the home can also be easily turned into useful tools in
the garden. Reusing materials and using recycled products will minimise the amount
of rubbish going to landfill.
ITEM
USE
Soft drink bottles and AGI pipe
Deep Watering system (page 12)
Aerating compost (page 9)
Glass Bottles
Fill with water to drown snails
Ice Cream Punnets
Catching rain water for garden
Old Stockings
Tying plants to stakes
Unwanted CD’s
Hung with string their reflection acts as a bird
deterrent
Cardboard and woollen carpet
Weed mat
15
Sustainable and
recycled materials
Replenish Garden
The Replenish Garden at the Banyule Operations Centre demonstrates the
importance of waste minimisation and resource conservation and recovery in
achieving environmental sustainability. Almost everything is from recycled sources
from wall structures to board walks to mulches. To view the Replenish Garden please
contact: Rethink Coordinator 9490 4532, or visit www.rethink.vic.gov.au to download
a list of recycled product suppliers.
For more information regarding sustainable suppliers please visit:
Ecobuy
www.ecobuy.org.au
Created to encourage the
purchasing of green products
in Australia.
The Global
Ecolablling
Network
http://www.gen.gr.jp
Develops the “ecolabelling”
of products & services
internationally.
Ecospecifier
http://www.ecospecifier.org/
Lists Australian sustainable &
healthy material sources.
Forestry
Stewardship
Council
www.fsc.org/
Their label helps consumers
to identify sustainable
products worldwide.
Good
Environmental
Choice Ltd.
http://www.aela.org.au
Governs the Good
Environmental Choice label
and much more.
16
Plant selection
Banyule City Council recommends planting locally indigenous plants to create habitat
and enhance our local environment.
What are indigenous plants? Indigenous plants are those which occur naturally in the
local area. Over 300 species have been recorded within Banyule. They range from
huge gum trees to delicate lilies.
Why plant indigenous plants in your garden?
• Adapted to local conditions they cope with our weather
• Many species of birds, mammals, reptiles and insects are dependent on indigenous plants for habitat and food
• A part of the local ecosystem they won’t become weedy
• Indigenous vegetation planted on private land connects remnant bushland helping species to survive in the long term
• Indigenous plants help to define the character of Banyule
How do you select the best plants for your garden?
Read:The following publications list indigenous plants
• This booklet (page 18)
• Banyule’s Indigenous Plants for Your Garden poster
• Flora of Melbourne
• Native Plants of Melbourne and Adjoining Areas (Jones)
• Native Trees and Shrubs of South-eastern Australia (Costermans)
• Sustainable Gardening Australia www.sgaonline.org.au
Look:Visit local parks and indigenous gardens such as:
• Burnley Gardens indigenous garden, Burnley
• Edendale Farm Community Environment Centre, Eltham
• Royal Botanic Gardens at Cranbourne showcases native plants
• Banyule parklands such as Banyule Flats in Viewbank
Ask: Staff at specialist indigenous nurseries
• Melbourne Wildlife Sanctuary Nursery
• Victorian Indigenous Nursery Co-Operative
17
Indigenous plants of Banyule
Legend:
Full Sun
Shade
Semi Shade
Drought Efficient
Birds & Insects Food /
Habitat Source
Mammal Food / Habitat Source
Trees
Lightwood: Acacia implexa
Size: 5-15 X 4-7m
Growth: Fast growing, long lived, summer flowering
tree with clusters of cream flowers and crescent
shaped foliage
Use: dry, well drained soils
Blackwood: Acacia melanoxylon
Size: 5-30 X 4-15m
Growth: Long lived tree, winter-spring pale yellow flowers,
followed by twisted seed pods, with glossy green foliage
Use: deep moist soils,
tolerates poor drainage, a
nice feature tree
Golden Wattle: Acacia pycnantha
Size: 3-10 X 2-5m
Growth: Fast growing, with large drooping phyllodes, masses of
golden flowers in winter-spring
Use: dry, well drained soils as a great source of colourful blossom
Yellow Box: Eucalyptus melliodora
Size: 10-30 X 8-25m
Growth: blue-green foliage, box type lower bark becoming smooth
on upper branches, cream honey-scented flowers in spring-summer
18
Use: dry, well drained soils,
flowers attract nectar eating
insects and birds
Red Box: Eucalyptus polyanthemos
Size: 7-25 X 5-15m
Growth: slow growing, rounded blue-grey leaves, grey box-type
bark, cream flowers in spring
Use: dry, well drained
soils, tolerates poor
stony soils
Narrow-leaf Peppermint: Eucalyptus radiata
Size: 10-30 X 6-20m
Growth: low branching tree with dense canopy and strongly
aromatic leaves, creamy white flowers in spring-summer
Use: moist, well drained soils,
sheltered slopes
Large Shrubs
Sweet Bursaria: Bursaria spinosa
Size: 2-6 X 2-3m
Growth: slow growing, small glossy leaves, usually with spines along
branches, masses of cream fragrant flowers in summer followed by
clusters of bronze seed pods
Use: Most soil types, plant to attract birds and nectar feeding insects.
River Bottlebrush: Callistemon sieberi
Size: 3-10 X 2-6m
Growth: fast growing, multi stemmed shrub with long narrow, cream
or soft pink flower spikes in summer-autumn
Use: Moist, poorly drained soils. Pruning after flowering encourages
more flowers and maintains a compact shape. Attracts nectar feeding
birds and insects.
Victorian Christmas Bush: Prostanthera lasianthos
Growth: shrub with soft mint leaves and showy purple spotted white
flowers in summer
Use: Prefers moist loamy soils,
prune to increase density and
longevity
19
Medium Shrubs
Gold Dust Wattle: Acacia acinacea
Size: 0.5-2.5 X 2-4m
Growth: Open spreading shrub with small rounded phyllodes, masses
of yellow flowers along branches in spring-summer
Use: Prefers dry, well drained soils, tolerates poor soils, often selfseeding in the garden. A great source of blossom.
Prickly Moses: Acacia verticillata
Size: 2-6 X 3-5m
Growth: Fast growing, open shrub with fine prickly foliage, pale yellow
flower spikes in winter-spring
Use: Prefers moist soils. A
dense shrub suitable for
screening.
Shiny Cassinia: Cassinia longifolia
Size: 2-4 X 2-3m
Growth: Fast growing, erect shrub with fine aromatic glossy leaves,
creamy clusters of flowers in summer
Use: Tolerating a range of
conditions this shrub provides
cut flowers
Rock Correa: Correa glabra
Size: 1-3 X 1-3m
Growth: Fast growing, dense shrub with glossy aromatic oval leaves,
greenish yellow, bell-shaped flowers in spring
Hop Goodenia: Goodenia ovata
Size: 1-2.5 X 1-3m
Growth: Fast growing and adaptable spreading shrub with bright
green ovate leaves, yellow flowers in spring-summer
Use: Prefers moist soils, this shrub will flower for a long period.
Prune very heavily every 2-3 years
20
Use: Tolerating a range of
conditions this popular plant
can be shaped into a low
hedge. Common Correa:
Correa reflexa is a slightly
smaller local Correa and can
be used in the same way.
Austral Indigo: Indigofera australis
Size: 1-2 X 1-2m
Growth: Fast growing, delicate open shrub with grey-green pinnate
leaves, showy pink flowers in winter-spring
Use: Prefers sheltered sites. This shrub looks good as a contrast
amongst other species.
Woolly Tea Tree: Leptospermum lanigerum
Size: 2-6 X 1-3m
Growth: Fast growing, dense shrub with silky grey foliage, masses of
white flowers in spring, woody seed capsules
Use: Prefers moist soils,
tolerates poor drainage, seed
capsules make an interesting
feature
Snowy Daisy-bush: Olearia lirata
Size: 2-5 X 2-3m
Growth: Fast growing, open shrub with large, narrow, velvety leaves,
masses of white daisy flowers in spring
Use: Prefers moist, well
drained soils
Low Shrubs:
Nodding Saltbush: Einadia nutans
Size: 0.3 X 1.2m
Growth: Scrambling shrub with small arrow-shaped leaves, inconspicuous
flowers followed by numerous red or yellow berries in summer-autumn
Use: Useful as a ground cover
on dry or compacted soil.
Native Raspberry: Rubus parvifolius
Size: 0.6-1 X 0.5-2m
Growth: shrub or ground cover with thorny scrambling branches
and small divided leaves, pink flowers in spring followed by red edible
berries similar to raspberries
Use: Prefers moist, well
drained soils. An unusual
addition to a food producing
garden
21
Pink Bells: Tetratheca ciliata
Size: 0.3 X 0.3m
Growth: Erect or spreading shrub with whorls of small oval leaves,
fragrant pink bell flowers in spring-summer
Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils, very attractive when flowering.
Groundcovers and Small herbs
Chocolate Lily: Arthropodium strictum
Size: 0.2-1.0 X 0.2-0.8m
Growth: Chocolate scented flowers in spring-summer. Fine, strappy
foliage dies back after flowering each year.
Use: A delicate plant for an open area.
Tall Daisy: Brachyscome diversifolia
Size: 20-50cm high
Growth: Small creeping clump with fine foliage, white daisy flowers.
Use: Prefers dry, well drained
soils. Long flowering period.
Cut-leaf Daisy: Brachyscome multifida
Size: 0.1-0.4 X 0.2-1m
Growth: Low Spreading mound with fine feathery foliage, white, pink
or purple daisy flowers most of the year
Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils, this popular plant looks good
along side paths.
Yellow Bulbine-lily: Bulbine bulbosa
Size: 0.2-0.6 X 0.3m
Growth: Densely tufted perennial with erect green succulent leaves that
die back each year. Yellow flowers form in clusters in spring- summer.
22
Use: Prefers moist, well
drained soils, sheltered slopes,
plains.
Clustered Everlasting: Chrysocephalum semipapposum
Size: 0.3-1 X 1-3m
Growth: Large spreading herb with upright stems of silvery foliage,
clustered gold flowers in spring-summer
Use: Prefers dry, well drained
soils, prune after flowering
Billy Buttons: Craspedia variabilis
Size: 0.3 X 0.5-1m
Growth: Tufting rosette of soft grey leaves, large golden button
flowers on erect stems in spring-summer
Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils
Smooth Flax-lily: Dianella longifolia
Size: 0.3-0.8 (flowers held above) x 0.5m
Growth: Tufting plant with glossy green leaves and numerous small
purple and yellow flowers held on long stems. Flowers are followed
by attractive purple berries.
Use: Prefers moist soils, provided a contrasting form to shrubs in a
garden bed. Black Anther Flax-lily, Dianella revoluta, has darker foliage
and spreads into large clumps. Grows well under established trees.
Kidney Weed: Dichondra repens
Size: very low and spreading
Growth: Creeping mat plant with ‘kidney-shaped’ green leaves,
inconspicuous flowers
Use: Tolerates a range of
conditions but will grow
more densely in moist
conditions. Good lawn
substitute in low traffic areas.
Running Postman: Kennedia prostrata
Size: Very low and spreading
Growth: Densely matted groundcover with grey-green leaves and
scarlet pea flowers along stems in autumn-spring
Use: Dry, well drained soils,
use on slopes or in beds with
seasonal plants.
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Austral Stork’s-Bill: Pelargonium australe
Size: 03-0.6 X 0.3-1m
Growth: Sprawling plant with aromatic hairy foliage, red striped white
or pink flowers in spring-summer. Often self seeds.
Use: Most soil types.
Ivy-leaf Violet: Viola hederacea
Size: very low and spreading
Growth: Colonising ground cover, white and purple flowers displayed
above foliage for most of the year
Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils, and sheltered sites. Useful weed
suppressing ground cover
Grasses, Rushes and Sedges
Common Wallaby Grass: Austrodanthonia caespitosa
Size: 0.2-0.4 X 0.4m
Growth: erect tussock, decorative fluffy flower heads in springsummer
Use: Wallaby grasses come in
a variety of sizes, some with
showy seed heads, some a
good lawn alternative in dry,
compacted soil.
Spiny-headed Mat-rush:
Lomandra longifolia
Size: 0.5-1 X 0.5-1.2m
Growth: Upright or arching clump with narrow strap-like leaves,
globular yellow flowers on spikes in spring
Use: Prefers moist areas. Copes well with shade and compaction.
Commonly used on road sides.
Weeping Grass: Microlaena stipoides
Size: 03-0.6m with seed heads higher
Growth: low spreading grass remaining green throughout the year;
drooping flower heads in spring, summer
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Use: Prefers moist, well
drained soils, an excellent
indigenous lawn grass.
Common Tussock Grass: Poa labillardieri
Size: 0.3-0.8 X 1.2m
Growth: large tussock, loose plumes of flowers heads in springsummer
Use: Prefers moist soils. Seeds
eaten by small birds. Cut
back hard in late summer to
promote new, green growth.
Kangaroo Grass: Themeda triandra
Size: 0.4 X 0.7m
Growth: Small-medium tussock, unusual decorative flowers held
above foliage in summer
Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils, can be used as a lawn
alternative.
Climbers
Common Apple Berry: Billardiera scandens
Growth: Shrubby light to medium climber, green-yellow bell flowers
most of the year, edible fruit
Use: Grow in a sheltered
location. This is not a
vigorous climber.
Old Man’s Beard: Clematis aristata
Growth: Vigorous climber with dark foliage, masses of white star
flowers in spring followed by fluffy seed heads
Use: Great for flowers along
a fence
Small-leaf Clematis: Clematis microphylla
Growth: Light-medium climber, cream star flowers in spring followed
by fluffy seed heads
Use: Can be grown as a climber or a ground cover where there is no
support. Seed heads are an attractive feature.
Purple Coral Pea: Hardenbergia violacea
Growth: medium trailing or climbing plant with deep green leathery
foliage, showy purple pea flowers in spring
Use: Grow up a structure
such as a fence or use as a
ground cover.
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What is a weed?
A plant in the wrong place.
Exotic weeds are plants whose origin is outside Australia. Native weeds are plants that
have evolved within Australia but are found outside their original ecosystem
and are having a negative impact.
Declared Noxious weeds are plants that have been proclaimed under the Victorian
Catchment and Land Protection Act (1994). The legislation requires that these weeds
be controlled or eradicated.
Environmental weeds threaten natural ecosystems. They can invade native plant
communities and out-compete local plants. Invasions of environmental weeds often
result in loss of habitat for native fauna. Environmental weeds can also be declared
noxious weeds for example Blackberry and Boneseed however not all environmental
weeds are listed as noxious.
Sleeper weeds have not become a problem yet but have the potential to do so.
Identification of sleeper weeds early on will allow more effective control.
Most weeds arrived in Australia as garden plants that escaped. They often come from
a similar climate and are very good at reproducing. They may produce large quantities
of seed such as Chilean Needle Grass. They may have bulbs that persist in the soil
such as Oxalis. They may produce berries that are eaten by birds distributing seeds
a considerable distance from the parent plant such as Cotoneaster and Hawthorn.
Gardeners can reduce the impact that weeds have by choosing plants for their
gardens that are not invasive.
Banyule’s Weed Management Strategy lists all the weed species for our area and can
be found on Banyule’s web site.
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Weed control
methods
Manual Weed Control
Weeding allows precise control of what is removed but can create soil disturbance
leading to germination of more weeds. Some plants are difficult to weed because
they have deep roots or bulbs that remain in the soil and re-grow.
Herbicide Control
All herbicides carry risks to the user and other plants. Always follow the label on the
product you choose and if in doubt, hire a professional.
Foliage spray application is the most common way of applying herbicide. Numerous
small emerging weeds in a garden bed can be targeted reducing the need for
weeding. Spray drift can damage off-target plants. Avoid this by spraying on a calm day
and away from desired plants.
Cut and paint application is used for plants that have waxy leaves that do not absorb
herbicide. Cut the stem close to the ground and immediately apply herbicide. If small
weedy shrubs are growing amongst desired plants this removal technique will leave
other plants and the soil undisturbed.
Other methods
Mowing and Slashing – control of some weeds can be achieved by mowing them
regularly to prevent seed set.
Heat – steam can be used to kill plants that have fleshy foliage and insignificant roots
such as Wandering Trad. Black plastic laid over weedy areas during summer can also
weaken plants before weeding.
Suppression - stop weeds returning using mulch (see page7) and replant with
desired plants.
27
Weeds of Banyule
Trees and shrubs - Control:
• Pull out when small
• Cut and paint
• Drill and fill
Plants with berries are spread by birds so it’s
important to always be on the lookout for seedlings.
Blackberry
Rubus fruticosus spp. agg.
Boneseed
Chrysanthemoides monilifera
Box Elder
Acer negundo
Boxthorn
Lycium ferocissimum
Briar Rose
Rosa rubiginosa
Cape Broom
Genista monspessulana
Cherry Plum
Prunus cerasifera
Cootamundra Wattle
Acacia baileyana
Cotoneaster
Cotoneaster spp.
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Desert Ash
Fraxinus angustifolia
Flax-leaf Broom
Genista linifolia
Gorse
Ulex europaeus
Hawthorn
Crataegus monogyna
Madeira Winter Cherry
Solanum pseudocapsicum
Mirror Bush
Coprosma repens
Monterey Pine
Pinus radiata
Pittosporum
Pittosporum undulatum
Privet
Ligustrum lucidum
Grasses and strappy leafed plants - Control:
• Foliage spray
• Hand weed • Slash to prevent seeding
Make sure seeds are not dropping onto the ground when weeding – you’ve left it too late!
Angled Onion and Onion Grass will also spread via bulbs so only attempt weeding when
they first emerge.
Agapanthus
Agapanthus praecox
Angled Onion
Allium triquetrum
Chilean Needle Grass
Nasella neesiana
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Cocksfoot
Dactylis glomeratum
Kikuyu
Pennisetum clandestinum
Onion Grass
Romulea rosea
Serrated Tussock
Nasella trichotoma
Sweet Vernal Grass
Anthoxanthum odoratum
Veldt Grass
Ehrharta longifolia and erecta
Small herbaceous plants - Control:
• Foliage Spray
• Hand weed
• Use mulch to stop them coming back
Buttercup
Ranunculus repens
Cape Weed
Arctotheca calendula
Fennel
Foeniculum vulgare
Nightshade
Solanum nigrum
Paterson’s Curse
Echium plantagineum
Soursob
Oxalis pes-caprae
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Thistles
Including
Cirsium, Carduus,
Oncosiphon, Silybum and
Sonchus spp.
Climbers and creepers - Control:
• Foliage spray
• Hand weed
• Cut and paint any woody growth
Many climbers are difficult to hand weed because
segments of roots and stems break off and continue to grow.
Blue Periwinkle
Vinca major
Bridal creeper
Asparagus asparagoides
Cape Ivy
Delairea odorata
Ivy
Hedera helix
Kapok Vine
Araujia sericifera
Wandering Tradescantia
Tradescantia fluminensis
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Propagation of
indigenous plants
Propagating your own plants can save money and be very satisfying. If you plan
to collect seed or cuttings from a park, you will need a licence.
Propagation from seed
Seed raising mixture must be light, free draining and sterile. Seeds should be covered
with soil to about the same depth as the seed is wide. Some seeds will not germinate
until dormancy is broken.
Use this technique for:
• Plants in the Daisy (Asteraceae) family – don’t cover seeds
• Eucalypts and related plants such as melaleucas (Myrtaceae family)
• Grasses such as tussock grasses (Poaceae family)
• Plants with fleshy fruits or berries
• Wattles (Acacia species); and others.
Dormancy
Many seeds will not start to grow unless dormancy is broken. Dormancy is useful in
the wild because it stops the seeds from germinating until conditions are right. Some
techniques for breaking dormancy:
• Scarification – damage the seed coat (hard outer surface) by rubbing with coarse sandpaper. This often helps to germinate wattles.
• Soak – in hot, not boiling water. You should see the seeds swelling
• Store – some seeds will not germinate when fresh
• Remove flesh – of berries by soaking then agitating.
Propagation by cuttings
This vegetative propagation technique involves taking a segment of stem from an
existing plant and encouraging it to grow roots of its own.
32
Use this technique for:
• Plants in the Daisy (Asteraceae) family
• Correas
• Austral Stork’s Bill; and others.
How to do it:
1. Use a free draining moist mixture containing coarse sand.
2. Collect plant stems that are relatively young but not brand new growth.
The segment should include a node near the bottom.
3. Remove most of the leaves except two at the top.
4. Plant in the cutting mixture ensuring that the node is submerged. You may choose to use a commercial rooting hormone.
5. Keep mix moist.
Propagation by division
Division involves breaking an original plant into several segments each with its own
foliage and roots. Trim the foliage as roots are often lost in the process. Use a knife,
secateurs or a sharp spade.
Use this technique for:
• Grasses
• Rushes
• Sedges
33
Vegetable gardening
Growing your own food is a great way to live sustainably and have fun outside, too!
You can cut down on transport costs and greenhouse emissions, maximise taste,
freshness and vitamin content.
Permaculture and growing vegetables:
Permaculture is based around the idea of working with nature rather than against it.
It involves planning and managing the planting of fruit and vegetables to maximise a
year round sustainable harvest. Consider:
Location
Many plants have different requirements of sunlight, soil type and protection from
wind. Peas for example, need a sheltered site, while some lettuces can grow in part
shade. Take these elements into account.
Planting Regimes
Planting the appropriate crop at the right time can make a substantial difference to
how successful your home grown fruit and vegetables are.
Cool Season
Planting 1:
Cool Season
Planting 2:
Warm Season
Climate for sowing: 5-25oC
Avoid planting in warm
months
Climate:10-25oC
Slightly more tolerant of
warm conditions
Climate: 15-30oC
Originating in the tropics.
Not tolerant of frost
Artichoke
Beetroot
Beans
Broad Bean
Celery
Capsicum and Chillies
Broccoli
Fennel
Tomato
Cabbage
Carrot
Corn
Leeks
Cauliflower
Cucumber and Pumpkin
Onions
Lettuce
Eggplant
Peas
Potatoes
Melons
Radish
Rhubarb
Zucchini and Squash
34
Organic Fertilisers
An effective and cheap way to add vital nutrients to your soil is through compost
(see page 8). Additional organic fertilizers include:
Fish emulsion: fertilizer made from processed fish products including carp
(a freshwater pest species), which are suitable for organic gardening.
Seaweed extract: A fertilizer available in ether liquid or granules.
Animal manure: Commonly used are chicken, pig and horse manure.
Companion Planting
Many fruit trees and vegetables benefit from growing next to plants (such as herbs)
that serve as a biological control of pests (like insects). Companion planting helps but
it alone cannot stop pets. Examples of companion planting include:
HERB
PEST THEY REPEL
PLANT WITH
Sage and Mint
White Cabbage Moth
Cabbages
Basil
Flies and mosquitoes
Tomatoes
Catnip
Fleas, ants and rodents
Eggplant
Garlic
Aphids
Roses, Raspberries
Coriander
Aphids
All Vegetables
Let plants such as carrots, parsley, parsnips & celery go to flower as they attract
predator insects into the garden that eat the pests. Otherwise remove pests by
hand and keep plants healthy to reduce invasion.
Seed Saving
Seed saving can help maintain a variety of vegetables to suit needs (e.g. high yield)
and tastes. Seeds can keep from 1-5+ years. When collecting seeds from your own
crops remember to:
• Collect seeds from fully ripe fruit.
• Wind dispersed seeds (e.g. carrots, beetroot) are ready to be collected when they are dry and easily separated from the flower head. Shake them into paper bags.
• Sun dry seeds prior to storage to reduce moisture content.
• Remove fruit flesh as it can promote mould and fungus.
• Store seeds in glass or plastic sealed jars in cool dry and dark place.
35
Habitat
Gardening
Habitat gardening is adapting your garden to attract more local animals. Insects and
birds add interest to your garden and act as natural pest controllers. Habitat gardening
also assists animals to move between bushland reserves by providing a corridor of
vegetation. A variety of animals will reflect a healthy and well thought out garden.
Banyule is home to a wide range of native wildlife including:
• 224 species of native birds
• 23 kinds of reptile species
• 22 mammal species
• 12 species of frogs
• 9 species of native fish
• Enormous number of invertebrate species
Bats
Bats are largely nocturnal mammals and account for a quarter of all mammal species
worldwide. There are two main types: megabats (e.g. fruit eating flying foxes) and
microbats (e.g. insect eating Free-tail Bats). Support bats by retaining large, established
trees as roosting sites.
Possums
Possums adapted well to the urban environment. Brush and Ringtail possums are
the most common in Banyule, although Sugar Gliders have been seen. Some people
see possums as an indicator of a successful habitat garden, others see them as an
unwelcome guest. There are ways to co-exist with our furry friends.
If they enter your roof cavity provide alternative nesting sites such as nest boxes.
Boxes for a variety of species can be purchased from The Melbourne Wildlife
Sanctuary. Possums are territorial so relocating them creates problems elsewhere.
Relocating possums outside of your property is both illegal and inhumane. Block all
entries into the roof and remove branches that grow close to your roof.
36
Protect fruit, vegetables and flowers in your garden from possums by denying them
access. Use metal collars around the trunks of trees, nets on fruit trees and prune
branches that provide access.
Birds
Common bird species recorded in Banyule backyards include:
•
•
•
•
•
•
Superb Parrot
Laughing Kookaburra
Eastern Spinebill
Wood Duck
Australian White Ibis
Silvereye
• Powerful Owl
• Galah
• Eastern Rosella
• Tawny Frogmouth
• Australian King Parrot
• Pied Currawong
• Musk Lorikeet
• Crested Pigeon
• Rainbow Lorikeet
• Sulphur-crested Cockatoo
• Red Wattlebird
• Gang-gang Cockatoo
Shelter helps protect against cats and dogs and predatory birds. You can provide
shelter by planting dense or prickly plants on a number of different canopy levels of
your garden. Plant species that provide seeds and nectar. Smaller bird species such as
wrens and thornbills occupy the lower levels of the garden, foraging on insects, while
honeyeaters and wattlebirds are nectar specialists. Parrot species such as Crimson,
Eastern rosellas and galahs feed on seeds.
Lizards and Snakes
Garden skinks, Marbled geckos and Blue-tongued lizards can be found in gardens
in Banyule. Attract them by planting tussock grasses and other clumping plants and
placing logs and rocks amongst your plants. Lizards will help control insect and snail
populations and provide food for birds such as kookaburras.
37
Habitat Gardening
All species of snake found in Banyule are poisonous and should be treated with
caution. If you don’t want snakes in your garden remove dense vegetation at ground
level. Make sure that chicken coups are snake proof and check for the presence of
mice which can attract snakes.
Frogs
Banyule is home to 12 species of frog divided into two main types: the southern
ground frogs (family Myobatrachidae) and the tree frogs (family Hylidae).
They provide a chorus of calls as they attract mates. Frogs can be attracted to your
garden with a pond containing aquatic plants and no fish. It is illegal to move frogs
and tadpoles so once your pond is constructed you’ll need to be patient. Allow some
leaf litter to build up in the pond as tadpoles feed on decaying plant matter.
Insects
The Eltham Copper Butterfly is one insect that is in need of more habitat in urban
areas. It requires a specific shrub, Sweet Bursaria, for its larvae to feed on but many
butterflies can be attracted to your garden simply by planting shrubs with high nectar
producing flowers.
Invertebrates are an essential component of our ecosystems as they help pollinate
plants, breakdown organic matter and are a food source for many other animals.
Do
• Provide clean water bowls
• Install nest boxes • Plant a variety of plant species
including shrubs
• Leave leaf litter and logs in
garden beds
38
Don’t
• Don’t let your cat out at night
• Don’t feed wild animals daily
• Don’t leave pet food outside overnight
Banyule Environmental Groups
Friends of Darebin Creek
PO Box 5036; Alphington 3078
www.friendsofdarebincreek.org.au
Friends of Diamond Creek
7 Leonard Cres; Eltham 3095
Friends of Nellie Ibbott Park
2 Maud St; Ivanhoe 3079
Friends of Plenty River
Alice & Kevin Ley
1 Havelock Crt; Lower Plenty 3093
Friends of St Helena
Bush Reserve
11 Dunbarton Dve; Eltham North 3095
Friends of Wilson Reserve
185 The Boulevard ; Ivanhoe East 3079
[email protected]
Darebin Parklands
Association Inc.
PO Box 3; Ivanhoe 3079
www.dpa.org.au
[email protected]
Friends of the Wildlife Reserves
C/o La Trobe University; Bundoora 3083
http://home.vicnet.net.au/~fwlr/
Friends of Montmorency
Bushlands
Pam Rowley 9439 1853
[email protected]
[email protected]
Macleod Progress Asoc. Inc
74 Strathallan Road; MacLeod 3084
Rosanna Parklands
Protection Association
www.roppa.org.au
Riverland Conservation Society
PO BOX 246; Ivanhoe 3079
[email protected]
Friends of the Yarra Valley Parks
PO Box 568; Templestowe 3106
www.yvfriends.org.au
Friends of Salt Creek
PO Box 329; Rosanna 3084
[email protected]
Warringal Conservation Society PO Box 64; Rosanna 3084
www.warringal.org.au
[email protected]
39
Further Information
Composting
Sustainable Gardening Australia www.sgaonline.org.au
Sustainability Victoria www.sustainability.vic.gov.au, Ph: 8626 8700
Ceres Community Environment Park http://ceres.org.au, Ph: 9387 2609
David and Yvonne Taylor, (1993) The Compost Book.
David Murphy, (2005) Organic Growing with Worms
Reln, www.reln.com.au
Bokashi Bins www.bokashi.com.au
Saving Water
Water restrictions and rebates: www.ourwater.vic.gov.au
Michael Mobbs, 1998 Sustainable House, Choice Books
Green Plumbers Association www.greenplumbers.com.au/
Rainwater 2007 Consumer Guide
Water wise products and rebate information www.savewater.com.au
Greywater
Regulations of domestic greywater: www.epa.vic.gov.au
Information regarding the rebates: www.sustainability.vic.gov.au
Detergent sodium and phosphorous levels: www.lanfaxlabs.com.au
Sources of Indigenous Plants for Banyule
Melbourne Wildlife Sanctuary Nursery
http://www.latrobe.edu.au/wildlife/pn.html, Ph: 9479 2871
Victorian Indigenous Nurseries
Cooperative (VINC) www.vinc.net.au, Ph: 9482 1710
Bulleen Art and Garden www.baag.com.au, Ph: 9850 5155
Propagating Indigenous Plants
Society for growing Australian Plants Maroondah, 2001, Flora of Melbourne
Murray Ralph, 1997, Growing Australian Native Plants from Seed
Indigenous Flora and Fauna Association http://home.vicnet.net.au/~iffa
Sustainable Gardening Australia www.sgaonline.org.au
40
Vegetable Growing
Clive Blazey, (1999) The Australian Vegetable Garden: What’s New is Old.
Clilve Blazey, (2006) Jane Varkulevicius The Australian Fruit and Vegetable Garden
The Diggers Club www.diggers.com.au
Jackie French, www.jackiefrench.com
New Gippsland seed farm, www.newgipps.com.au
Eden Seeds, www.edenseeds.com.au
Frog ponds
Melbourne Wildlife Sanctuary Nursery
Ph: 9479 2871 www.latrobe.edu.au/wildlife
Amphibian Research Centre http://frogs.org.au/ Ph: 9742 3764
Living with Wildlife
Department of Sustainability & Environment www.dse.vic.gov.au Ph:136 186
Flora for fauna www.floraforfauna.com.au
Nest Boxes from Melbourne Wildlife Sanctuary,
http://www.latrobe.edu.au/wildlife/nboxes.html, Ph 9479: 2871
Wildlife Victoria www.wildlifevictoria.org.au, Ph: 13 000 94535
Help for Wildlife www.helpforwildlife.com
24hr emergency Mobile: 0417 380 687
Waterways
Darebin Creek Froggers http://www.dcmc.org.au/management/frogs.php
WaterWatch www.vic.waterwatch.org.au
Weeds
Weeds in Australia www.weeds.gov.au
Weedbusters www.weedbusters.info
Dept. of Primary Industries www.dpi.vic.gov.au
Richardson, 2006 Weeds of the South-East
41