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Bitter harvest — rice fields and fish culture C. H. Fernando Almost 50 years ago I saw the imaginative neo-realistic film called “Bitter Rice.” This controversial film had an additional meaning for me as my home at that time was next to a large rice field. However, at the end of the 1940s, when this film was being made in the rice fields of southern Italy, the rice farmers actually living there had decided to pay fines rather than raise carp in their fields as decreed by the government. Perhaps they already knew that there was a wide chasm between expectation and reality when it came to farming fish in rice fields. A Missing Link? In later years, when I had become a biologist, I frequently tried to relate the tantalizing dream of raising fish and rice together in the same wet fields, to provide a complete meal for the under-nourished people of the world, with the reality of the checkered history of the successful implementation of that approach anywhere outside China. Was there a missing element, some key, which could make rice-fish culture profitable, at least in the tropics and subtropics? Wild fish had been harvested from rice fields perhaps from time immemorial, but could some better organized human intervention actually move this practice from hunting to profitable husbandry of fish in rice fields? Rice paddies are quite complex ecosystems which go through aquatic, semi-aquatic and terrestrial phases, sometimes with great rapidity. Also, the ancient practices of cultivation are now replaced by modern agricultural methods which, in some parts of the world, are highly technical. Therefore, can the practices of rice production in this new millennium somehow still be blended with the production of fish for profit at the same time? A Hasty Judgment In the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, integrated ricefish farming had been widely promoted in Italy, Russia and Japan. The inspiration behind this enterprise seems to have come from China. As China was even then the epicenter of fish culture, it is not unreasonable to assume that they knew what they were doing - as they had been raising fish in rice fields for some 2,000 years. Rice-fish culture was also practiced in India for many centuries, but it was probably less well developed as it was not that widely known. But the testing and subsequent abandonment of rice-fish farming in those three countries (Italy, Russian and Japan) - each with advanced scientific research establishments - seemed to me an Sri Lanka. Traditional rice fields colonized naturally by indigenous fishes during flooding and harvested when the dry season approaches. indication that perhaps rice-fish farming could not be sustained elsewhere other than in China. Perhaps my judgment then was too hasty, as rice-fish farming is again being heralded as a success in China although, for some strange reason, it was considered a capitalist enterprise and forbidden under the Communist regime. Recently there have been several international meetings in Asia in which ricefish farming has been promoted. But in my considered opinion, commercially profitable and sustained rice-fish farming in any credible form has yet to be demonstrated. The only sustained enterprise for raising aquatic animals for food at a profit with rice is crayfish farming in the rice paddies of Louisiana in the USA. The same crayfish species is now raised also in rice paddies in Spain and China. Much scientific work has been conducted on the ecology of rice fields, not only in Italy, Russia and Japan, but also in some unexpected countries such as Slovakia and Hungary, and even in the Carmargue region of southern France. In the libraries of research institutes throughout the tropics and subtropics, it is possible to find a plethora of research papers, booklets, proceedings of international and national meetings and national reports on almost every aspect of rice field ecology and rice and fish husbandry. There are many extensive bibliographies on the subject, and even a few monographs. Reflections from the Past Rice fields have occupied my thoughts for as long as I can World Aquaculture 23 remember. I was raised near a traditionally cultivated rice field that had most of the elements of a natural ecosystem, as rice had been cultivated there for centuries. Between the time of harvest and the next sowing, the fallow season in the paddy fields is very interesting for its varied fauna and flora. The diversity and numbers of organisms each paddy supports is quite remarkable. In fact, all the seasons are very dramatic for their changes, and at times there is an abundance of living things and at others active life seems to be in abeyance. For me, the rice field can be a marsh, or a pond, or a stream, all depending on a different time of year. There is always a close interaction of terrestrial and aquatic life, and the changes seem to occur in a harmonious continuity. Any agricultural intervention, of course, causes some perturbation, and in rice fields the changes are quite drastic. But I am always amazed by their intensity when the fields are flooded after sowing or the rice is being transplanted. There is always a burst of energy, as a wide range of aquatic animals and plants rapidly colonize the entire paddy, arriving in the irrigation system, stimulated to develop from dormancy, or simply having been blown in by the wind. Which Fish to Farm Thailand. A rice paddy and drainage ditch to provide a nursery for cultured fish. There are three groups of fishes commonly found in paddy fields, each broadly defined by its origin and preferred habitat. The most numerous are true riverine fishes, having evolved and remained in freshwater. This group includes the large family of cyprinids - the carps and their allies - that may number over 1,500 species. The next are the lacustrine, or lacustrine-adapted fishes, which once had a marine connection. This is a smaller group, which includes the cichlids, and may number about 1,000 species. Finally there are what might be called peripheral freshwater fishes, as they comprise marine species which recently, in the gological sense, invaded freshwater habitats. This group includes the clupeids, or herring family, and other more pelagic species, but are not too numerous. Rice fields are naturally colonized by riverine fishes from local streams. Similarly, the fields are invaded by marsh-dwelling fishes, but those too are essentially riverine species. The large number of tilapia species and individuals, which have become so prominent in fish culture throughout the tropics, are cichlids. Most tilapia species are lacustrine, having evolved in some of the oldest-known lakes of Africa, but riverine species can also be found in both Africa and South America. Tilapia are tropical and sub-tropical in distribution, whereas all the carp species (Chinese, Indian, and European) used extensively in rice-fish culture are sub-tropical and temperate. Serious Doubts Flow diagram of water and fish in a proposed new system for integrating rice and production with fish culture. 24 June 2002 The viability of rice-fish culture is a subject I have pondered for over 50 years. At times, early in my reflections, I felt that such a practice may well provide a substantial amount of desirable, high quality fish at a profit to fish farmers, especially in the tropics and sub-tropics. However, in recent years I have had serious doubts that this is a reasonable expectation. My pessimism runs along the following lines. A rice field is essentially a marsh that is cultivated by man, and the rice plants are the marsh plants. The rice plants have all the priority, as they provide the target crop. The fish that are natural to the rice field habitat are essentially marsh-adapted fish, or fish that can live in a temporary habitat when the water level is high and where they are fed and nur(Continued on page 64) Bitter Harvest (Continued from page 24) tured. Carp, for example, have been the mainstay of fish culture in rice fields, but in the tropics and sub-tropics they are not a profitable commodity. Although they are still widely farmed, in warmer southern China they are being replaced in fish culture by tilapia. The higher standard of living in China is bringing about many social changes, and in recent years there has been a growing demand for higher quality food, and that includes fish and shellfish. This follows the trend in Europe, where freshwater carp have been eaten for centuries but no longer have the traditional appeal to maintain their high market demand; and in the U.S.A., where they were introduced more than a century ago following petitioning of the U.S. Congress by the (mostly immigrant European) people, the fish are now hardly to be found or eaten. Only in Asia, in regions where food will be in short supply for some time to come, do carp remain a commercially viable Request for Proposals (RFP)—Aquacullture Market Study The Governor’s Office of Agricultural Policy will receive proposals for a contract to conduct a competitive market and industry analysis for the Commonwealth of Kentucky for the aquaculture industry of Kentucky. The provisions of the entire RFP and its required elements can be viewed at the Finance and Administration’s website: www. state.ky.us/agencies/finance. A written copy of the RFP may be obtained by contacting Jeff Mosley, General Counsel, Governor’s Office of Agricultural Policy, 404 Ann Street, Frankfort, KY 40601, (502) 564-4627. Proposals will not be considered unless received by 5:00 pm eastern time on July 15, 2002 at the above-referenced address. 64 June 2002 U.S.A. Harvesting the American crayfish, with the rice left available as forage. fish that the poor can still buy. Thus, the abandonment of carp culture in rice fields in Italy, Russia and Japan was, in all probability, due to the poor quality of the fish, and not necessarily economics. About The Future Fish raised in rice fields will continue to be an important source of animal protein in some remote areas of the world where the standards of living are low, and higher quality fish are not available. The best possibility is that rice fields can be part of a larger integrated system for fish culture, particularly with tilapia. The idea (see the schematic diagram) would be to use the different phases of rice production in the paddies with the different phases of fish production. For example, during the phase when new life is exploding, the paddies are used as nurseries for producing juveniles, and when the rice plants are in the growth phase the fish too are grownout, provided there is a deeper area in the pond, or a sump, into which the fish can retreat from time to time. The use of rice fields as nurseries for tilapia appears to be a feasible proposition, and one supported by Andras Szito of the Hungarian Fish Culture Research Institute at Szarvas, who has had a great deal of experience with rice-fish culture all over the world. It is also a topic which is being widely discussed, and even being carried out in practice in Thailand. The principle is to integrate the phases of fish culture closely with all the micro-ecosystems that abound in the rice paddies before, during and after rice production, and move the fish between them to take advantage of their best benefits for survival and maximum growth. The more long-term prospect for rice-fish culture is, of course, a genetically modified fish, probably a species of tilapia, which is developed specifically for the purpose of developing viable and commercial production. In conclusion, the culture of fish and other organisms for food in rice fields has many problems that have not been resolved, and therefore, the practice is neither sustainable nor profitable. The tantalizing possibilities for rice-fish culture still remain, but some new ideas and practical innovations are required. For example, better integration of the phases of fish culture into rice production, as well as agricultural irrigation schemes and genetic engineering of a farm fish ideally suited to the rice paddy ecosystem. The success of crayfish, as a single crop in rice fields, may, in fact, be showing us the way. Note Herbert Fernando is Distinguished Professor, Department of Biology, University of Waterloo, Ontario, Canada. He has worked on freshwater ecology in six continents, specializing in rice-fields habitats, and contributed his research to many international and national journals. He shares his interest in rice fields with studies on zooplankton and the ecology of reservoir and lacustrine fishes. This is his first contribution to World Aquaculture, but he has written scientific articles for many popular magazines. He can be reached by e-mail at: [email protected]