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Building a NearSys BalloonSat Easy v3.2 Flight Computer (Fall 2010 modifications) AEM 1905: Spaceflight with Ballooning University of Minnesota BalloonSat Easy 3.2 kit and instructions Parts in BalloonSat Easy 3.2 (modified) kit Printed Circuit Board (PCB) Resistors, to be numbered R1 – R9 Diodes – polarity indicated by the stripe 9-volt battery snap for main power (rather than using AAA battery holder) Wires for switches, LED’s, commit pin, etc. Toggle switches for main power and servo Heat-shrink tubing (AKA shrink-wrap) IC’s (AKA chips) and sockets Capacitor – polarized; longer lead is positive 5-volt voltage regulator Power indicator LED’s; flat edge is negative Reed relays to fire cameras (if needed) Headers (male) and receptacles (female) Audio jack to be shorted and used as a Pull-Before-Flight “commit” pin AAA battery packs for power (not used in modified version) Identify which resistors are which (using multimeter or color codes) then solder in R1 – R9 in exact locations. Clip leads. Solder in diodes – watch strips for polarity Solder in 9-V battery snap for main power only. Use the strain relief holes in the PCB. Be sure red is positive, black is negative. Cut 4 pieces off long wire then strip ends of each to about ¼ inch length. Solder wires to main power and commit pin. Make use of strain relief holes. Slide on shrink wrap then hook the switch wires to the center post and one side post of switch. Solder. Slide up wrap. Shrink. Increase stripping on commit pin leads to ½ inch. Slide on pieces of shrink wrap. Wrap wires through two tabs on audio jack Solder then cover with shrink wrap PCB with switch, audio jack, & battery snap Other main modification: put headers on LED’s (2), camera outputs (2), and the servo switch & power (won’t use often) Can use a receptacle (or helping hands) to hold header in place while soldering it. Don’t overheat – they melt! Heat sink! If working alone you may need to use the helping hands to hold the solder (if your hands are both busy elsewhere) Snip leads of one LED for a main power indicator. Cut 2 more pieces of wire. Solder to LED and cover with shrink wrap. When soldering 2-hole receptacle to LED wires, heat sink to helping hands through a 2-pin header (temporarily) Add 2-hole receptacle to LED wires so it can plug onto LED 2-pin header Insert 2 IC sockets in PCB – watch notches Solder in the capacitor – watch polarity Insert voltage regulator – watch polarity Avoid solder bridges on closely-spaced pins, like those on the voltage regulator Insert REED relays – only go in one way Make sure the 3-pin male servo header (with short ends through PCB) and the 3x3 receptacle can fit next to each other. If too tight, sand down receptacle (see next slide). Sand down one end of the 3x3 hole receptacle if necessary to make it fit Insert the 1x5 receptacle nearby Insert 3-pin programming header Cut a shorting wire to modify the audio plug for use as a commit pin. Note the two ends are stripped different lengths. Wrap two ends of the shorting wire around the audio plug tabs as shown Before soldering the shorting wire in place, be sure the cover still fits on Solder shorting wire in place. Put on cover. Strengthen with hot glue. BalloonSat Easy 3.2 flight computer, without chips, ready for testing