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ECO-FIBRES AND ECOFRIENDLY TEXTILES
R.B.CHAVAN
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILTECHNOLOGY
INDIAN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
HAUZ-KHAS, NEW DELHI 110016
PRESENT CONCEPT
POLLUTERS MUST PAY
CRADLE TO GRAVE
NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY
RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES,
PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSAL
MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDS
ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY ECO
LABLES
WOMB TO TOMB
•GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO PRODUCTS
EVEN AT HIGH COST
THREE ECOLOGIES
•PRODDUCTION ECOLOGY
•USER ECOLOGY
•DISPOSAL ECOLOGY
USER ECOLOGY
•USER ECOLOGY REFERS TO
• AESTHETICS
•PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS
•EFFECTS OF TEXTILES ON HUMAN BODY.
DISPOSAL ECOLOGY
DISPOSAL OF TEXTILES AFTER USE
RECYCLING,
COMPOSTING,
DUMPING,
INCINERATION
LEAST POSSIBLE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT
.
PRODUCTION ECOLOGY
COMPRISES OF
•CULTIVATION AND HARVESTING OF NATURAL FIBRES
•THE MANUFACTURE OF REGENERATED AND SYNTHETIC
FIBRES
• SPINNING, WEAVING, KNITTING
•TEXTILE CHEMICAL PROCESSING
•GARMENT MANUFACTURE
•PACKING
ECO FIBRES
–CONVENTIONAL COTTON
–CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO
FRIENDLY
– USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND
VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS
DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.
–INHALATION DURING HANDLING AND SPRAY
APPLICATION-HEALTH HAZARDS
–PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS
RESIDUE
ON COTTON BOLLS
–WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY
PROCESSES
–WATER POLLUTION
Major Cotton Pesticides and Herbicides
Chemical
Agri. Use
Name
Chlorpynfos Insects
Long Term Environ.
Toxicity
Toxicity
Brain and fetal
damage,
impotence, sterility.
Bees, birds,
crustaceans,&mollu
Bees, birds,
crustaceans, & fish.
Cyanazine
Weeds
Birth defects,
Dicofol
Mites,
insecticide.
Cancer,
reproductive
damage, tumors
Ethephon
Plant
growth
regulator
cancer.
Mutations.
sks
Aquatic insects,
birds, & fish
Birds, bees,
crustaceans, & fish.
PESTICIDES – HEALTH HAZARDS
SOME FACTS(US Study)
• Number of pesticides in the market 400
• Major source of ground water contamination
• Number of different pesticides documented by
the E.P.A. to be present in groundwater 74
• Pesticide-related illnesses among farm workers
in U.S.A. each year: approximately 300,000
• Harmful impact on birds, aquatic life and soil
fertility
Pesticides in developing countries
• Developing countries are the fastest growing
pesticide markets, where health and
environmental regulations are extremely
limited, and a great deal of the poisonings
take place.
A young Mexican girl
drinking water from an
empty pesticide
container.
This picture strongly
demonstrates the lack
of education about the
dangers of pesticides in
rural areas of the
developing world.
COTTON BUD
KING COTTON
COTTON
FLOWER
It takes one pound of chemical fertilizers and pesticides to
conventionally grow the three pounds of cotton needed to
make a T-shirt and a pair of jeans.
beneath cotton's natural fiber lies a
long chain of chemically-intensive,
"unnatural" processes.
To bring this delicate plant to harvest,
it is heavily sprayed - 8 to 10 times a
season - with pesticides so
poisonous
they gradually render fields barren.
And that's just the beginning.
To create finished goods, fabrics are
often colored with toxic dyes and
finished with formaldehyde.
Need for organic cotton
So much is made of the economic
advantages of pesticides by chemical
companies interested in sales
But little is said of the hidden costs, the
contamination of soil and ground water,
as well as the negative effects on
farmers, farm workers and wildlife.
Organic agriculture offers the choice to
Because the hidden costs of
conventional agriculture will
eventually surface
ECO FRIENDLY COTTON
 COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING
FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER CHEMICALS
(ORGANIC FARMING)
 RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED DURING
FIRST TWO SEASONS OF CULTIVATION
 COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS ECO
FRIENDLY
 INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS
 ORGANIC COTTON
 GREEN COTTON
 NATURAL COTTON
ORGANIC COTTON CULTIVATION
CLEANER APPROACH
•Organic farmers use biologically-based rather than chemicallydependent growing systems to raise crops.
Soil
•Organic farming starts with the soil. Compost, frequent crop rotations
and cover crop strategies replace synthetic fertilizers to keep the soil
healthy and productive. Fields must be free of synthetically-derived
chemicals for three years to achieve organic certification.
Weed Control
•Weeds are controlled by innovative farm machinery, hand labor or
flame devices rather than herbicide applications.
Organic cotton certification
INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION FOR ORGANIC
AGRICULTURE MOVEMENT [IFOAM]
has formulated standards and guidelines for
organic cotton cultivation and are
followed by many labelling agencies to certify
organic cotton and other farm produce.
BioFach América Latina
Development of organic markets
The domestic markets for organic food in Latin America are presenting
strong development. Brazil's 50% annual rate growth is an example of
this promising market.
Brazilian Minister of Agriculture Roberto
Rodrigues installs the “Sectorial Chamber for the
Organic Agriculture Production Chain” .
March 15, 2004 was the date on which the “Sectorial Chamber for the Organic
Agriculture Production Chain” was installed. According to Minister
Rodrigues, “organic agriculture in Brazil is a sector, not only a production
chain”.
2003 BioFach Conference in Brazil
surpassed all expectations!
The 2003 Biofach Conference, held on September 25 and 26, at Hotel Glória,
Rio de Janeiro, surpassed all expectations. 600 people were expected but a
total of 1,200 attended the event!
WHY ORGANIC FARMING
Large retailers are profitably marketing
garments made of organic cotton
Consumer preference for environment
friendly products
Forthcoming regulations to ban toxic
agriculture chemicals
Environment leadership to gain market
advantages
Cleaner approach : Each T-shirt made from
organic cotton saves one third of pound of harmful
synthetic fertilizers and farm chemicals
Future generation: Our farming and manufacturing methods can no
longer compromise the environment we pass on to our children and
grandchildren
Organic cotton apparel
Organic cotton body wear
Earth Friendly Fashions
Simplify Life,
Relax Your Mind,
Calm Your Soul,
Open Your Heart.
Experience Fisher
Henney Naturals
Organic T shirt
organic sweat
shirt
orgnic terry robe
Organic slippers
Organic fashion
wear
Organic night gown
Organic cotton apparels
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)
Country
1992
Argentina
Australia
479
1993
1994
1995
1996
1997
2
120
126
132
70
500
750
400
500
400
Benin
5
Brazil
Egypt
38
2
9
1
5
5
141
598
600
650
630
450
500
475
400
398
928
900
900
Greece
India
206
268
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)
Country
1992
1993
1995 1996
1997
100
100
50
90
90
50
16
20
20
20
100
75
50
50
50
700
924
1516
1500
650
2
20
30
100
100
200
1994
Israel
Mozambique
Nicaragua
Paraguay
Peru'
400
Turkey
Tanzania
33
World Organic Cotton Production 1992-1997 (in tons)
Country
Uganda
USA
1992
1993
1994
16
150
250
300
800
5365
7425
3396
2852
35
30
30
2155 4274
Zambia
1995 1996
Zimbabway
Total
1997
5
3408 6201
9498
12864
9028
7967
NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON
COTTON THAT GROWS WITH NATURAL
COLOURS DURING CULTIVATION
BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED COTTONS
KNOWN SINCE TIME IMEMORIAL
IN INDIA
NON POPULARITY OF COLOURED COTTON
LOW YIELD
SEED AVAILABILITY
LOW FINENESS, LOW STAPLE LENGTH
LOW STRENGTH
POOR SPINNABILITY
LOW YARN AND FABRIC QUALITY
LIMITED COLOUR RANGE
CONTAMINATION OF WHITE COTTON
ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION WAVE
IMPETUS TO THE CULTIVATION OF
NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON
SHADES
PISTA GREEN AND ALMOND BROWN MOST
COMMON
OTHER SHADES
CREAM
PINK
MAUVE
COUNTRIES
INDIA
USA
ISRAEL
CHINA
PERU
MEANS TO OVERCOME TECHNICAL PROBLEMS
LOW STRENGTH AND POOR SPINNABILITY
BLENDING 30-50% OF WHITE COTTON WITH COLOURED COTTON
CHANGE OF SHADE ON LAUNDERING
ON LAUNDERING SHADE BECOMES DEEPER
ALKALINE SCOURING STABILIZES THE SHADE CHANGE
POOR BLEACHING FASTNESS
DO NOT BLEACH
Australia
Rocklea spinning Mills in
collaboration with Australian
farmers introduced range of
yarns from brown and green
varieties of cotton
Blending of coloured cotton
with white cotton in diffferent
proporations produce shade
varieties
NATIVE COLOUR COTTON PROJECT
PERU
•COMMENCED IN 1984 TO
DEVELOPMENT STRATEGY TO SUPPORT
INDIGENOUS FARMERS AND
TRADITIONAL ARTISANS
•15000 FARDMERS CULTIVATE
COLOURED COTTON
•50000 WOMEN INVOLVED IN
TRADITIONAL HAND SPINNING AND
HAND WEAVING
•COLOURED COTTON IS PRODUCED
WITHOUT THE USE OF SYNTHETIC
FERTILIZERS AND PESTICIDES
•COTTON PLANT GROWS UP TO 5
METERS HIGH
YIELD 10 KG PER PLANT
•REMARKABLY RESISTANT TO PEST
AND DISEASES
•THRIVES IN MARGINAL SOILS WITH
LITTLE OR NO RAIN FALL
SIX PRINCIPLE COLOUR
VARIETIES
CREAM
Pista green
MEDIUM BROWN
REDDISH BROWN
CHOCOLATE BROWN
MAUVE
Brown verities possess anti-bacterial and antifungal
properties
COFFEE FILTERS MADE FROM CERTIFIED
ORGANIC COLOURED COTTON FREE FROM
PESTIFCIDES, BLEACHES AND
SYNTHETIC COLOURS
Natural coloured yarns and fabrics are certified by
SKAL, Dutch certifying agency
Slivers of coloured cotton
Naturally coloured yarn for
Kniting and Weaving
Coloured
cotton fabrics
Sally Fox in 1982 took on the challenge of improving an
ancient agricultural art.
Fox successfully bred and marketed varieties of naturally
coloured cotton she calls FoxFiber ®.
Today, Sally Fox designs fabrics with her cotton and
continues research.
Fox has received a patent and three Plant Variety
Protection Certificates for her naturally colored cottons
which, in addition to browns, she now grows in reds and
greens.
Her invention has been so popular it has sprouted two
successful companies -- Vreseis, Ltd. and Natural Cotton
Colours, both operating in Arizona.
Sally Fox is associted with Athena Mills
Arizona
Athena Mills is recognized as a leader for
two environmentally descriptive trademarks
- Colorganic® and Colour-By-Nature®.
Both marks ensure the final product's color
is from naturally colored cotton.
Colorganic additionally ensures certified
organic growing practices for all of the
cotton fibers in the final product.
Fox Fibre offers consumers an ecological
alternative in cotton: today's purchase for
tomorrow's environment
ECO LABELS
Eco-labels are product labels that
inform consumers
about the environmental impact of a
product.
They encourage producers to switch
to environmentally sound production
process methods (PPMs) for
advantage in the marketplace.
Eco-labels allow producers to
differentiate their products from
products that are less
environmentally friendly
and
thus to reach environmentally
conscious consumers.
ECO LABEL CRITERIA
ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLINESS OF THE
ENTIRE LIFE CYCLE OF THE PRODUCT
CRADLE TO GRAVE ASSESSMENT
1. Production of raw materials
2. Production of the end product
3. Packaging and transport of raw
materials and the finished product
4. Use of the product by companies and
consumers
5. Disposal of the product
e.g. assessment of a T-shirt starts in the
cotton field and ends in the incineration
plant.
ECO LABEL CRITERIA
•As little use as possible of chemical
substances harmful to the environment
•No or very few heavy metals in the product
•Energy conservation during production and
use
•The lowest possible amounts of harmful
substances in wastewater
•Requirements which ensure that the
product works well and will last long
Opportunities for recycling/reuse
•The product should be as unproblematic as
possible in terms of waste
POTENTIALLY HARMFUL SUBSTANCES
pH
Formaldehyde
Heavy metals (As, Pb, Cd, Cr, Co, Cu, Ni,
Hg)
Pesticides Chlorinated phenols
Dyestuffs (specific classifications)
Chlorinated organic carriers
Boicidal finishes
Flame retardent finishes
Colour fastness
Emission of volatiles
Odours
Thailand (Thai
Green Label
Korea
Environmental
Labelling
Republic of China–Taiwan
Green Mark
Japan Eco Mark
India Eco Mark
European Union Eco-label “Flower”
scheme
Australia/New Zealand
Environmental Choice
Nordic Countries (Nordic Swan )
Austrian Eco-label
Croatia (Environmental
Label)
Netherland Ecolabel
Foundation
From Timber to Wood pulp
Lyocell
manufacturing
process
Lyocell: Environment friendly
award
Polyester from
Corn
Biodegrabiligy of Corn fibre