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Elizabethan Costume
Elizabethan Costume from a Scene
from King Henry IV (Part 2) set in early 1400's
Elizabethan Costumes
The Elizabethan Era was a period in English history dominated by the Class structure. People who lived in the
Elizabethan era were not allowed to wear whatever they liked! It did not matter how wealthy they were - the fabric,
and even the of their clothes were dictated by their rank, status or position and these strict rules were enforced by
English Law! These laws about clothing in the Elizabethan era were called Sumptuary Laws. They were designed to
limit the expenditure of people on clothes - and of course to maintain the social structure of the Elizabethan Class
system! So it was illegal to wear various items of clothing - disastrous for clothing actors in appropriate costumes!
The English Sumptuary Laws were strictly obeyed! The penalties for violating Sumptuary Laws could be harsh fines, the loss of property, title and even life! Elizabethan men only wore clothes that they were allowed to wear - by
Law! But like the Laws of today there was a 'get out' clause! The nobility wanted to maintain the elite class system
but they also wanted to enjoy the new form of entertainment that the Theatre had to offer!
Elizabethan Costumes - the Get Out Clause
The English Sumptuary Law of 1574 ( The Statutes of Apparel ) stated the following:
" Note also that the meaning of this order is not to prohibit a servant from wearing any cognizance of his master, or
henchmen, heralds, pursuivants at arms; runners at jousts, tourneys, or such martial feats, and such as wear apparel
given them by the Queen, and such as shall have license from the Queen for the same."
The above clause applied to actors (and their costumes). Acting Troupes had to be licensed. Licenses were granted
by the Queen to the aristocracy for the maintenance of troupes of players - such troupes included the Earl of
Leicester's Men, Lord Strange's Men, Chamberlain's Men and the Admiral's Men.
Did Theatrical Costumes reflect the correct period of the Play?
Whatever play, and whichever era the play was set, in the actors generally wore the dress of their own time. The
theatre was new - the plays were new. The plays had to be produced in a hurry in order to ensure a rapid turnover
of new material for the insatiable Elizabethan audience and to beat the competition from rival theatres. Not enough
time had elapsed to build up a ready made store of costumes which reflected the correct period of the play. Perhaps
the costumes in a play, such as Julius Caesar, would have been easier to develop as togas are relatively easy to
produce. In this instance a combination of Roman clothes and Elizabethan clothing might well have been seen
together. The picture at the top of the page depicts a Scene from King Henry IV (Part 2) by William Shakespeare.
The play is set in the early 1400's. King Henry IV lived 1399-1413 but this is the type of costume that would have
been worn by the Shakespearean actors - the Elizabethan dress of the day.
Clothing worn during the Elizabethan period - the Theatrical Costumes
Elizabethan clothing of the Upper Class was sumptuous. The materials were luxurious and covered a whole variety
of colours. Due to the Statutes of Apparel (The Sumptuary Laws ) ordinary Elizabethans were not able to wear the
latest fashions. Fashionable clothes would only be seen at a distance, when wealthy nobles or Royalty were in view!
Costumes in the Elizabethan Theatre would therefore double as a fashion show!
Elizabethan Costumes - the Meaning of Colours and Materials - Character Recognition
All people of the Elizabethan period understood the meaning of different colour clothing - a concept somewhat alien
in our modern age. Most of us would recognise that purple had been the colour associated with royalty since the
days of the Roman Emperors - but nearly every colour of clothing had its own meaning during the Elizabethan era!
And this meaning was totally understood by the audience. The colours of the costumes therefore conveyed an
enormous amount of information as soon as the actor walked on to the stage! The types of materials and fabrics
would have had a similar effect. Many of the plays had historical themes featuring the royalty and nobles of the
land. As soon as a character walked on the stage the fabric and colour of his clothing would indicate the role of the
character he was playing - Elizabethan Nobles and Upper classes wore clothing made of velvets, furs, silks, lace,
cottons and taffeta.
Elizabethan Costumes - the Female Roles
During the Elizabethan era only men were allowed to act in the theatre until 1660 - it was judged to be unseemly for
a woman to undertake such a role. Young boys were therefore hired to act in the female roles. Elizabethan Women's
clothing was extremely elaborate and was constructed with many layers of clothing. It would have taken some
considerable time, and the help of a dresser, to dress in the costume of a female. Wigs, or periwigs as they were
called, were readily available as they were in fashion at the time so this was not a costume problem. However, the
make up used by Elizabethan women was! It was lead based and highly poisonous! The young boy actors were
therefore very unhealthy, had unpleasant facial skin diseases and a high proportion actually died of poisoning.
Interesting Facts and Information about Elizabethan Costumes
Some interesting facts and information about Elizabethan Costumes can be accessed by the detailed information
provided in the Elizabethan Clothing section. As the actors usually wore the dress of the day Elizabethan costumes
can be easily emulated. An overview of the names of garment required as Elizabethan costumes follow:


Elizabethan Costumes for Women
Underclothes!
 Smock or shift, also called
a chemise made of linen
 Stockings or hose
 Corset or bodice
 Farthingale - a hooped skirt
 A Roll or Rowle
 Stomacher
 Petticoat
 Kirtle
 Forepart
 Partlet
Over Clothes!
 Gown
 Separate sleeves
 Ruff
 Cloak
 Shoes
 Hat


Elizabethan Costumes for Men
Underclothes!
 Shirt
 Stockings or hose
 Codpiece
 Corset
Over Clothes!
 Doublet
 Separate sleeves
 Breeches
 Belt
 Ruff
 Cloak
 Shoes
 Hat
http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-theatre.htm