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Vol. 12, No.1
January/February 2008
University of Illinois Extension, Pike County Horticulture Newsletter
Pike County
1301 E. Washington St.
Pittsfield, IL 62363
Phone: (217) 285-5543
If you need a reasonable accommodation to participate
in any program we offer, please contact University of
Illinois Extension, Pike County at 217-285-5543.
Articles In This Issue:
Upcoming Events ..................................................1
Conference Set for Vegetable Gardeners.............2
Websites for Home Gardeners..............................2
Not Just Birds Go After Birdseed.........................2
Repairing Storm Damaged Trees.........................3
Tree Appraisal .......................................................3
Solving Garden Dilemmas....................................4
It’s the Berries.......................................................5
Spice Up Your Life................................................6
Plants in Honor of Valentines Day ......................6
Handling Foliage Plants in Low Light................7
How Do Insects Survive Winter ...........................8
Demystifying Botanic Language..........................8
The Master Gardener’s Plot .................................9
Upcoming Events
Program costs for each telenet is $2 (due by deadline dates
for each) or $5 if you would like color handouts. If you
would like a CD of the program there is a $2 charge for
each CD. All telenets will be held at the Pike County
Extension office beginning at 1:00 p.m. The presentations
will be via the University of Illinois telenet system and
local computer.
Horticulture Programs Offered during Winter 2008:
January 29 - Healthy Soil = Healthy Plants will cover the
importance of building healthy soils to grow healthy plants
in landscape and home garden settings. An in-depth look at
soils, their characteristics, fertilizer management and the
important physical, chemical and biological aspects of soil
and biology will be looked at. How we can improve our
soils through appropriate fertilizer, organic matter and pH
amendments will be discussed, along with meeting the
challenges of urban soil management. The importance of
soil sampling and properly taking and interpreting soil tests
will also be covered. Plan on attending this informative
program and learn how our actions can impact the health of
our landscape offered on Tuesday January 29 at 1:00 p.m.
Deadline to register is January 25, 2008.
February 12 - Carnivorous Plants is a topic not
often offered at your local gardening events.
Most people are only familiar with Venus Fly
Trap, but did you know that the Venus Fly
Trap is only one of over six-hundred species of
carnivorous plants? Do you know why these
plants have a unique appetite for bugs? Have you
really looked at these plants and realized their beauty as
well as their function in our environment? Matt Kostelnick,
Horticulture Educator, University of Illinois Extension will
give you a glimpse into the world of carnivorous plants.
Learn about and view the vast assortment growing all over
the world including Pitcher Plants, Sticky Traps, and
Trigger Traps. This program will be offered on Tuesday,
February 12 at 1:00 – 2:30 p.m. Matthew will also give tips
on how you can grow your own Carnivorous Plants.
Registration deadline is February 8, 2008.
February 26 - Climbers and Twiners: Vines for the
Home Garden will be presented on Tuesday, Feb 26 at
1:00-2:30 p.m. Vines offer exciting diversity to the garden
with their leaves, flowers, fruit and structure that can add
another dimension to the garden. Join Greg Stack,
Horticulture Educator, University of Illinois
Extension as he explains how these versatile
plants can add a whole different look to even
small space gardens. You’ll leave knowing
what to look for in vines, how to care for
them and most of all take a look at some
interesting choices that you can add to your garden this
spring. Both perennial and annual vines will be discussed.
Take your garden to new heights! Plan on attending
Climbers & Twiners; Perennial and Annual Vines for the
Garden. Deadline to register is February 22, 2008.
University of Illinois Extension provides educational programs and
research-based information to help Illinois residents improve their quality
of life, develop skills and solve problems
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Conference Set for Vegetable Growers
Not Just Birds Go after Bird Seed
Growers from across the region will gather for the
Southern Illinois Vegetable School on February 13.
The program, sponsored by University of Illinois
Extension, will be held at the Mt. Vernon Holiday Inn.
Registration starts at 8 a.m., and the program runs
8:40 a.m. to 4:05 p.m.
When you try to provide food for the birds, the rest of
nature considers itself invited to the feast that you
have provided. Here are some suggestions for
reducing problems from squirrels, mice and other
creatures that can be a problem to people feeding
birds.
The program includes presenters from University of
Illinois, Southern Illinois University and University of
Kentucky.
Probably the biggest problem that you are likely to
face when trying to feed the birds is squirrels trying to
take the birdseed. Although squirrels are also part of
nature, and many people feel that their feeding at the
bird feeder is natural and acceptable, other people get
very upset when squirrels arrive at the feeder.
Topics include onions and potatoes for direct markets;
insect and disease management using pesticides
formulated for home gardens; major Illinois vegetable
diseases; using drip irrigation to deliver fertility
needs; managing corn earworm and European corn
borer; winter high tunnel production of cold hardy
salad greens; and an update on research being
conducted at the U of I Dixon Springs Agricultural
Center.
Advance registration by February 6 is $25 per farm.
Late and at-door registration is $30. The registration
fee includes the 2008 Midwest Vegetable Production
Guide for Commercial Growers. For more details and
online registration, visit
http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/regions/hort. Or, contact
Elizabeth Wahle by phone at 618-692-9434 or email
[email protected]. If you need disability
accommodations to participate in this program, please
call her by February 6.
Websites for Home Gardeners
To help home gardeners decide what colorful foliage
will look best in their garden, U of I Extension has
launched "Fabulous Foliage":
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/foliage/
“Hortanswers" is designed to provide basic
information about the disease and pest problems of
plants plus determine the right plant for the right place
in the garden:
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/hortanswers/
Squirrels are capable of tearing apart many
feeders and carrying all of the seed
away to be stored for later use, just as
they do with acorns and other seeds in
the fall.
Squirrels can be kept out of the feeder by mounting it
on a slender metal pole that they are unable to climb.
The feeder should be at least 6 or 7 feet off of the
ground so that the squirrels will not be able to jump
onto the feeder from the ground. Locate the bird
feeder so that it is at least 20 feet from the nearest tree
branch, house roof or other object that the squirrels
may use to jump down onto the feeder.
If this isn't feasible, then using sheet metal or smooth
plastic around a wooden post will usually keep off the
squirrels. Smooth plastic or metal baffles beneath or
above the bird feeder will probably keep away most of
the squirrels.
Realize, however, that sooner or later a squirrel that is
agile enough or ingenious enough to get to the seed
anyway may arrive at your feeder. With this in mind,
many people decide that if you can’t beat them, join
them. They end up resigning themselves to the fact
that squirrels need to eat as well. Going with this
notion, consider feeding corn to the squirrels so that
they are less likely to attack the bird feeder. This
bribery not only helps protect the feeder, but also
helps another of nature's creatures make it through the
winter.
Ear corn or corn-on-the-cob usually occupies the
squirrels longer than loose corn or seed. These ears
can be mounted on nails on boards or fence posts for
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support. Locate your feeder at least 15 feet from
shrubbery or other cover so that ground feeding birds
can see a prowling house cat or other predator and
have time to escape.
throughout the split section. Wound treatments are no
longer recommended. Research has shown the trees
own defensive mechanisms will protect it more
effectively than wound dressings.
Mice and rats may feed on the spilled seed around the
feeder. Locating the feeder over a smooth surface
such as a patio allows you to sweep up the seed each
evening to reduce this problem. Because many birds
prefer to feed on the ground, spilled seed should not
be removed during the day.
Trees such as silver maple, poplars and ornamental
pears are particularly susceptible to storm damage. In
choosing a replacement tree for those removed, take
into account the mature size of the replacement,
location of overhead utility lines and how the tree will
look when it reaches its mature height and width.
Repairing Storm Damaged Trees
Tree Appraisal
Trees that have been damaged by ice may be worth
trying to save if a substantial portion of the tree
remains intact and the repair will keep the tree
attractive and of value to the property owner.
Appraisal of trees that are damaged or lost
due to storms must be done in some
cases dealing with insurance
claims or litigation. While not
totally precise, it will usually
provide a fairly accurate value for
the tree or trees. Three different methods
may be used to determine value. These are either done
by assessed value of real estate, replacement cost or a
formula.
Pruning should not be attempted while ice is still on
the tree or while electrical lines still have damage. For
larger trees, it is recommended that a professional do
the work, especially when electrical lines and property
is within the fall range.
Damaged branches should be removed at the nearest
lateral branch, and not in the middle of a branch.
Careless pruning will result in additional branch
dieback, or excessive sprouting, causing more
problems down the road. Pruning cuts should be made
just outside of the branch collar—where the branch
attaches to another branch or trunk.
For large branches, a three-cut procedure is best. From
the underside, saw approximately 12 to 18 inches
from the main stem or branch where it is attached.
Make the cut 1 to 1 ½ inches. For the second cut, saw
approximately 2 to 3 inches beyond the undercut until
the branch is removed. The third cut is made to
remove the remaining stub, just outside the branch
collar.
If there are large areas of torn bark on a tree, remove
loose, dry bark with a sharp knife or wood chisel in
and around the wound. Some forks and main
branches, which are split or partially broken, may be
repaired without removing one or both branches. This
type of work is usually beyond the capability of most
homeowners and should be done by professionals.
Repairs are usually accomplished with the use of large
diameter steel bolts or threaded screw rods placed
For assessed value changes, ask a realtor or land
appraiser to assess the property with and without the
trees. A good recent photograph may be needed to
establish property value before the loss occurred.
Small trees may be appraised by determining their
cost of replacement. Replacement cost should include
removal of the destroyed tree, cost of the new tree,
installation and a post-survival guarantee.
For large trees, a formula method may be needed. The
formula is based on an arbitrary monetary value for
tree size and is subject to economic conditions. This
basic value is then modified based on the following
factors: cross section area, species, condition and
location.
In most cases, the base value of trees is determined by
a group or association of arborists. The Illinois
Arborist Association does this for Illinois. Species
ratings are based on species characteristics, such as
environmental adaptability, biological traits and
aesthetic characteristics. Values are reviewed and
updated periodically.
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Several factors, including legal precedents resulting
from court cases involving tree appraisals, have made
appraisals quite complex. It is very unlikely that an
untrained individual would be able to accurately
appraise tree damage or loss and be able to defend the
appraisal in court. If the damage or loss is significant,
it is a job for a professional. If the loss is not major, a
formal appraisal may not be recommended.
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•
Need quick temporary shade for newly
planted plant? Upend a plastic laundry basket.
•
Use a bread bag over your hand to pluck out
small poison ivy seedlings. Then pull bag
over seedling and toss in garbage.
•
Use colored golf tees to mark locations of
spring bulbs.
•
How about a nice berber? Carpet pieces can
be used to cover paths in the vegetable
garden.
•
Too busy during planting time to write down
plant locations? Just file plant tags in photo
albums. The plastic pages for 4 x 6 inch
photos work well. Place labels in different
pockets according to garden location.
•
Small step-on cylinder waste baskets make
great temporary containers for vegetable
scraps. The interior pail can be easily
removed for a trip to the compost pile.
Solving Garden Dilemmas
If necessity is the mother of invention then gardens
are necessity's playground. Gardeners are known for
going beyond duct tape for solutions to problems.
Here are some creative ideas for solving garden
dilemmas.
Tools from Unlikely Places
•
Slice foam pipe insulation and place on the
handles of hoes and rakes for a more
comfortable grip.
•
Plastic net onion bags make great scrubbers
for cleaning tools.
•
Cut slits in garden gloves at the base of thumb
and index finger. If delicate handling of plants
is needed, just pop thumb and finger out the
holes. No need to take gloves off.
•
Old serving spoons make great tools for
moving small volunteer plant seedlings early
in the season.
•
Old serrated knives easily cut through roots
when transplanting houseplants.
•
•
•
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Plant Support Groups
•
Heavy fishing line can be used to help
clematis grow up a structure or arbor. String it
every 6 inches either horizontally or vertically
and the clematis can easily climb without
constant attention.
•
Need a quick plant tie? Use Siberian iris
leaves.
•
Use a grain shovel to move containers. Just
slip shovel under container and drag it to new
location.
Plastic "pound in" edging pieces that hook
together can be used to contain spreading
plants such as yarrow. These also work well
to hold up short but floppy plants.
•
What the best dressed gardeners are wearing fishing vests to hold labels, pens, gloves, plant
ties, and chocolate.
Baby gates secured to metal stakes can be
used in the vegetable garden as a quick trellis
for peas.
•
Use dark green spray paint on inexpensive
wire tomato cages for use as peony supports.
Old ironing boards make
great portable potting
benches. Who wants to use them
for ironing anyway?
Plastic mini blinds can be cut to any length to
use as plant labels.
Plant Protection Possibilities
•
Use dark green spray paint on wire baskets
made for closet shelves. Set over plants to
protect from rabbits. Baskets can be easily
moved as plants mature and are "less tasty".
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•
Place 1-2 foot squares of bird netting over
plants to prevent rabbit damage. Use "U"
shaped landscape stakes to secure netting.
Dizzy over Garden Design?
First take digital photos of area set for redesign. Print
photos in black and white (this also reveals a good
mix of form and size of plants, and leaf textures).
Then use transparent paper on top of the prints. Sketch
new design ideas over the present plantings and
structures.
Weird but Wonderful
When flowers with sturdy stalks such as
yarrow, astilbe or allium have dried,
enjoy them longer by spray painting the
flower an appropriate color. Protect
stalks from spray for a more "realistic"
look.
It’s the Berries
No other food spells fun like a berry. Which would
you rather party with - zucchini or a farkleberry?
Yes, there really is a farkleberry. There are also
buffalo berries, bogberries, bilberries, whortleberries,
cloudberries, gooseberries, huckleberries, jostaberries,
dewberries, mulberries, elderberries, June berries,
loganberries and lignonberries. Except for the
occasional local jam or jelly most of these party
animals go about their berry way largely ignored.
Farkleberry also known as sparkleberry, Vaccinium
arboreum, is a relative of blueberry. Although birds
enjoy the black fruit, it is relatively and
disappointingly tasteless. Farkleberries
are native to rocky slopes and
woodlands of southern Illinois.
Farkleberry bark is used in leather
tanning and the wood is made into tool handles.
Lignonberry, Vaccinium vitis-idaea, is a tastier
blueberry relative. It is grown in the northwestern
U.S. and Europe. Lignonberries are berry particular to
their growing requirements and need an acidic soil
similar to blueberries.
Buffalo berries, Shepherdia argentea, are scarlet
grape-sized fruits. It has been listed as a potential
commercial fruit crop for the last 100 years. Maybe
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buffalo berry sounds too much like horse apple.
Buffalo berry can be dried and stored or used to make
jelly or eaten fresh. The 1 to 2 inch long thorns make
harvesting a challenge. As natives to the Great Plains
of the U.S., buffalo berries are berry winter hardy and
drought tolerant.
Mulberry was once called "King of the Tree Crops".
Its weediness and messiness have led to its decline in
popularity. That's a nice way of saying mulberries are
often cussed for their part in the purple splotches on
cars and driveways. Red mulberries, Morus rubra, are
native to North America in bottomlands and along
streams. A hybrid named 'Illinois Everbearing'
originated in White County, Illinois and reportedly
has a large almost seedless sweet fruit. White
mulberry, Morus alba, is native to China. It was
introduced into the U.S. for silkworm production. It's
now escaped into backyards thanks to the greedy
eating and generous droppings of birds. As a fruit crop
they have a great deal going for them. Mulberries are
very cold hardy and bear abundant fruit. They tolerate
difficult conditions from dry to wet and even salty
areas. In the right place and with some judicious
pruning mulberry might be worth a spot in a fruit
orchard.
Huckleberry is not just Tom Sawyer's ingenious
friend. Garden huckleberries are an edible relative of
the common nightshade weed. Their flavor is similar
to a bitter tomato. Be sure you know what you are
eating since many members of the tomato family are
poisonous.
Loganberry is a cross between a red raspberry and a
blackberry. Although they look like red raspberries,
their flavor is distinct. Loganberry is used in
processing as drie d, juiced or canned products. They
were once berry popular in the late 1800's and early
1900's, but have dwindled to some acreage of
commercial production in Oregon.
Boysenberries are an interesting mix between
blackberries, red raspberries and loganberries. The
story goes in the 1920's in California Rudolf Boysen
was experimenting with different berries. His many
berry progenies would have remained in obscurity had
it not been for George Darrow of the USDA and a
local farmer Walter Knott . The straggly vines were
taken to Knott's farm. Once he got the berries into
production he found his farm stand customers
continually asked for those large purple berries. Knott
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
started calling them boysenberries. Mrs. Knott made
preserves from the boysenberries and that's how, you
guessed it, Knott's Berry Farm became famous.
With the interest in natural food colorings and healthy
phytochemicals we may see a wider array of berries.
The following websites may be of interest:
Midwest Fruit Explorers http://www.midfex.org
California Rare Fruit Growers http://www.crfg.org
Spice up Your Life
Wars have been fought over
them. Men traveled to distant
lands to find them. Some owe their fortunes to them. We
all have them, yet we wouldn't think to lock them up in a
vault nowadays. Spices have been used for centuries in
food, medicines and even sacred ceremonies.
So just what is a spice and what is an herb? Spices come
from the root, bark, fruit or berry of perennial plants.
Most spices come from tropical plants that are not hardy
here. Herbs are the leaves of annual and perennial low
growing shrubs. Many herbs can be grown here. Listed
are just a few of the common spices available to us.
Allspice is the dried, unripened pea-sized berry of a
small evergreen tree, Pimenta dioica. It is only one
spice, but its name reflects its flavor combination of
cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. Throughout South
America allspice is known as Jamaican pepper. Most
allspice comes from Jamaica but also Honduras, Mexico
and Guatemala. Ground allspice is used in mincemeat,
pumpkin pie, plum pudding, fruit cake, cakes and
cookies. Jerk seasoning popular in Caribbean dishes uses
allspice as the main ingredient.
Cinnamon is the dried inner bark of various evergreen
trees belonging to the genus Cinnamomum. The bark is
stripped off and laid in the sun to dry. As it dries, it curls
into the familiar cinnamon sticks. Cinnamomum
burmannii is primarily imported from Indonesia and is
the most common form of cinnamon in the United
States. Vietnam is the source for the finest cinnamon,
Cinnamomun loureirii, also known as Saigon Cinnamon.
Cinnamon has many uses such as in baked goods, coffee,
chewing gum. Stick cinnamon can be used as a stirrer for
mulled cider.
Cloves are the dried, unopened, nail-shaped flower buds
of the evergreen tree, Syzygium aromaticum, native to
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Indonesia. Indonesia remains one of the biggest
producers of cloves. Cloves are used in pickling and
preserving, catsup, baked goods, ham and chocolate. The
flavor is pungently sweet. Clove oil is used to flavor
chewing gum and candy, in soap and perfume and
pharmaceutical preparations.
Coriander is the dried ripe fruit of an herb in the parsley
family. Eat the leaves and the plant is known as the herb
cilantro. This is one spice/herb that can be grown in our
gardens.
Saffron is the most expensive spice. Saffron comes from
the dried stigma (the female part) of a crocus flower. The
stigmas must be harvested by hand and it takes 225,000
of them to make one pound of saffron. No wonder it's so
expensive. Spain is considered the prime spot for saffron
production. Saffron is prized for both its color and
flavor. Luckily it only takes a very small amount of
saffron to add flavor and color to food. It is used in
breads, cakes, rice and saffron tea.
Paprika is made by grinding the dry pods of a sweet red
pepper. It has a bright red color and mild flavor. It is
often used to garnish foods. It's used in meat processing
and in many condiments including catsup and chili
sauce. Many dishes from Hungary where the best
paprika is grown owe their flavor to paprika.
Pepper is a ground dried berry. White pepper is made
from refined berries with the hulls removed. Most
pepper is imported from Indonesia, Brazil and India.
Pepper is used as additive to many condiments. The dry
berries are known as peppercorns
Thanks to the McCormick people, well known for their
spices, for some of the information listed.
Plants in Honor of
Valentine’s Day
Leafing through a garden book recently, I was
amazed at the number of plants with love or heart in
their names. In honor of Valentine's Day I have listed a
few plant selections to add to any passionate gardener's
plant list.
Heartleaf is a common name since many plant leaves are
heart shaped. The houseplant, heartleaf philodendron
tolerates a lot of abuse such as low light and forgetting to
water it while you are on vacation for a month. Another
houseplant is Lovejoy, Episcia. A relative of African
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
violets, Lovejoy has very attractive dark green or
coppery colored leaves with reddish flowers.
Outdoor plants include heartleaf bergenia, Bergenia
cordifolia, that has beautiful shiny evergreen leaves for
the partial shaded flower garden. Bergenia looks great in
combination with Fringed bleeding heart, Dicentra
eximia. Fringed bleeding heart grows to 18 inches and
has blue green finely dissected leaves with long lasting
pink heart shaped flowers. A larger two to three feet tall
version is the Old fashioned bleeding heart, Dicentra
spectabilis. Their rosy red heart shaped flowers are on
delicate arching stems. It is also called "the living
Valentine." Bleeding heart vine, Clerodendrum
thomsonae, is a greenhouse vine with very showy
flowers of white and crimson.
There seem to be a lot of bleeding heart plants. I don't
think it has anything to do with their political persuasion,
although I did see a bleeding heart liberal plant listed in
a seed catalog once.
For the truly adventuresome Valentine, there is exotic
love, Mina lobata, a vigorous annual vine. Its dark green
fleur-de-lis shaped leaves are practically hidden by the
scarlet to creamy yellow tubular flowers held on arching
stems.
Another attractive annual vine is Love-in-a-puff,
Cardiospermum halicacabum. Its white flowers are
followed by papery globe shaped seedpods that look like
little green balloons. The pods contain black seeds with a
heart shaped spot.
One of my favorites is Love-in-a-mist, Nigella
damascena. Love-in-a-mist is an annual flower often
grown for its delicate seedpods used in everlasting
flower arrangements. The blue or pink flowers seem to
float above the fine feathery foliage, hence its name. It
reseeds like crazy so maybe it should be love-in-afoggy-field.
In the "not so great a name" category is Love-liesbleeding, Amaranthus caudatus. It has long red tassel
flowers which droop to the ground and are very long
lasting. Supposedly the flowers were worn by Swedish
knights as emblems of incorruptibility during medieval
times.
A truly great Valentine name is Hearts-a-burstin,
Euonymus americanus. It's a native burning bush relative
with scarlet seeds enveloped by a papery coat.
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Purple love grass, Eragrostis spectabilis, is a native
American grass 12 to 18 inches high with airy reddish
purple seed heads in late summer.
Herbs are not left out of the love list with the five feet
tall lovage, an attractive celery substitute. Another herb,
southernwood, is also known as lover's plant or lad's
love. At one time it was thought to stimulate not only a
young man's passion, but also the growth of beards so
young men would rub the aromatic lacy leaves on their
faces.
A plant with questionable ornamental appeal is Love
Leaves also known to most of us as burdock or "those
stickery things that get on our dogs." Supposedly eating
the raw stems of Love Leaves will stir up lust and was
used as a love potion. It's hard to find a good recipe for a
love potion anymore.
Handling Foliage Plants in Low Light
Conditions
Foliage houseplants have requirements for light, heat
and water. The heat and water are easily supplied by a
homeowner, but light is often a problem.
In the decorating scheme, foliage plants
could often be useful in a corner, an
entry area or almost anywhere
away from good light—where they
may grow long and spindly.
Success is possible, however, and
since green growing plants have a
place in every décor—use them.
Some foliage plants can be acclimated to low light
intensities. Three practices help ensure the plant
adapting: watering only often enough to prevent wilting,
reducing the amount of fertilizer applied to the plants
and keeping the air temperatures on the cool side.
Double pot plants that are to be grown under reduced
light. This makes soil-moisture control easier than
leaving the pot exposed to the air.
Begin watering as frequently as you would if the plant
had sufficient light. Then gradually lengthen the
intervals between waterings. A few of the oldest leaves
may die while you are adapting the plant to dry-soil
conditions; this is part of the readjustment of the new
environment. Do not let the plant wilt at any time.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
Fertilize the plants more sparingly than normal. Use only
about one-third as much fertilizer as is recommended for
plants growing vigorously. Apply less fertilizer each
time, but still apply it on a regular basis. Maintain an air
temperature that is as low as human occupants can
comfortably tolerate.
Most plants thrive at temperatures of 60 to 75 degrees F.
In general, weakly lighted plants do best in the lower
limits of this range, while brightly lighted plants do best
in the upper limits.
If you can add moisture to the air, do so. Plants will
grow under conditions of low humidity, but they need
more attention to watering than they do under moderate
humidity.
Sometimes it is not possible to reduce temperatures
adequately or the light is just too dim. Supplementary
lighting with fluorescent bulbs works quite well. The
required lighting intensity for a plant varies ac cording to
the time the plant is lighted; the dimmer the light, the
longer the plant must be lighted.
If you use a fixture containing two 40-watt fluorescent
tubes and light the plants for 16 hours a day, the
minimum lighting intensity for growing foliage plants
can be supplied by placing the fixture two to three feet
above the plants.
These are maximum distances for satisfactory plant
growth. All the plants grow best if they are no farther
than 36 inches from the lighting fixture. If plants become
leggy and weak, the lights are too far away and should
be moved closer.
There are no real secrets to growing houseplants
successfully. When the plants' requirements are known
and then fulfilled, their performance will be a pleasure.
Dim light isn't a problem if you know what to do about
it.
How Do Insects Survive Winter?
During the winter months, gardeners hoping that
extremes in weather will reduce the number of their most
hated insect foes. However, such hope is often
unwarranted due to the insect's ability to adapt to many
different weather-related challenges.
In order to survive winter, insects push the pause button,
actually the diapause button. The definition of diapause
(and coincidently also the definition of an evening spent
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watching TV) is "an inactive state of arrested
development." The shorter daylight lengths of fall trigger
insects to enter diapause. During diapause an insect's
metabolic rate drops to one-tenth or less, so it can use
stored body fat to survive winter. Also, many insects
produce alcohols for antifreeze. Their bodies can
supercool (reach temperatures below freezing) without
forming cell-damaging ice.
Insects spend the winter in various life stages: egg,
nymph, larvae, pupae, or adult. Many overwinter as
eggs. Aphid eggs can be found in the bud scales of
woody plants. Bagworms hang out as eggs inside this
year's bags. Tent caterpillars spend the winter as egg
masses on branches.
Many insects, such as mourning cloak butterflies and
bean leaf beetles, spend the winter as adults in protected
areas such as under loose tree bark and in fallen leaves.
Native ladybugs overwinter in herds under
fallen tree bark or firewood. Asian
multicolored lady beetles look for a warm
spot in our homes to wait for spring.
Other insects overwinter in the larval or
immature stage. Turf feeding grubs overwinter deep in
the soil as beetle larvae. European corn borers survive as
full grown larvae. Others, such as cecropia moths and
swallowtail butterflies, overwinter as pupae in cocoons
or chrysalis.
In order for insects to continue to the next life stage,
diapause has to be terminated. The "play button" is
generally warm temperatures. However, it would be a
deadly mistake for an insect to "wake up" too soon.
Therefore, most insects do not come out of diapause
unless a long period of cold precedes the warm
temperatures.
Insects are certainly adaptive, but winter conditions can
affect their survival. Cold temperatures, fluctuations in
temperatures, how long cold temperatures continue, how
protected the overwintering location is, and if any snow
cover is available all affect an insect's survival.
Demystifying Botanic Language
Every leisure, hobby, or sport gardener quickly learns
the language of gardening such as:
•
Annual – plant that lives for one year, or one
day if the price tag exceeds gardener's budget.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
•
Bed – horizontal area often worked in outdoors
and seldom slept in indoors.
•
Deadhead – process of removing old flowers to
keep weedy plants from reseeding in the flower
bed instead dispersing a trail of wayward seeds
from the garden to the compost pile.
•
Debug – process of whacking Japanese beetles
off roses.
•
Sucker – indeed born every minute from tree
roots.
•
Water - verb "to water" as in "I can't believe I
have to water these plants again"; also noun as
in "Will it ever start (or stop) falling from the
sky"?
Certain gardening language, however, can induce
stuttering and stammering even in the most gifted
gardeners; the scientific language of plant names, also
called botanical language.
We owe a lot to Carolus Linnaeus who back in 1753 got
fed up with the old plant naming system. Necessity
shmessity. I'm convinced frustration is the mother of
invention.
Before Linnaeus, species names were long and tedious:
Rosa carolina fragrans foliis medio tenus serratis. Just
rolls right off your tongue. Doesn't it? Linnaeus in his
infinite wisdom came up with the binomial system
where plants would have two names combined to make
their distinct species name.
Now before your eyes start glossing over and you
wonder if there is more coffee in the coffeepot, botanic
names are significant to the novice gardener as well as
the seasoned professional. Botanic names show plant
relationships throughout the world and are
internationally recognized. When purchasing plants it's a
guarantee of sorts as to what you are getting. Botanic
names are often descriptive so they can reveal clues to
plant characteristics or growing conditions.
Common names such as daisy and sunflower have an
inherent problem. They vary wildly from place to place.
For example Black-eyed Susan is a common name for
many different plants. Some are annuals. Some are
biennials. Some are perennial. Some have 2-inch flowers
and some have 4-inch flowers. There is even a Blackeyed Susan vine. Without the botanic name you have no
idea what to expect.
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The binomial (two name) system of species
identification consists of the genus and the specific
epithet. For example Red Maple, also known as Scarlet
Maple and Swamp Maple, are common names of a
popular tree. The species name is Acer rubrum with Acer
as the genus and rubrum as the specific epithet. Rubrum
means red. Other maples would share the same genus
name, but would have a different specific epithet such as
Silver Maple, Acer saccharinum, and Sugar Maple, Acer
saccharum. The authority or person first describing the
plant is also listed as in Acer rubrum L. for Linnaeus.
Botanic names should always be in italics or underlined
if written. The genus name is always capitalized. The
specific epithet is always correctly written in lower case.
Since Mother Nature loves variety there are subspecies,
forms, and varieties of some species. For instance
Thornless Honey Locust is Gleditsia triacanthos var.
inermis. Inermis means thornless and can refer to many
thornless versions of typically thorny plants.
Horticulturists love to monkey around with plant
characteristics so there are also cultivated varieties
known as cultivars. These are listed after the species
name and are capitalized and in single quotes or
proceeded by "cv." as in Acer rubrum 'October
Brilliance'.
Horticulture companies sometimes trademark different
names for cultivars as in the ever popular Knockout™
rose. Knockout™ is the trademark name but the cultivar
name is 'Radrazz'.
If you know Rhododendron, Aster, Magnolia, and Iris
you are already on your way to recognizing botanic
names.
“In the bleak mid-winter, frosty wind made moan,
“Earth stood hard as iron, water like a stone...”
Christina G. Rossetti
The Master Gardener’s Plot
by Duane Lanchester
So what does the mid-winter gardener
do during this bleak and frosty time? I still have some
toys.
I still have a garden out there. Under the blanket of
leaves something is going on. Maybe it’s good nutrients being added to the soil and helpful insects
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
and organisms growing. Maybe it’s bad - plant
diseases and lurking insect pests preparing to spring
into action when the weather warms. But right now
there isn’t much I can do to help the good guys or
thwart the bad guys.
I still have some vegetables growing in my garden.
There’s garlic. I planted the cloves in the fall to give
the crop a head start this spring. The plants looked
healthy in October, but right now they, too, look
pretty bleak. But I have faith that without my aid by
the miracle of plant regeneration my garlic will look
great by April Fools Day. And the Walla Walla sweet
onions which I planted about the time I should have
been harvesting them, survived the July and August
heat. Most of them never formed bulbs, but grew
marvelous tops that looked like bunches of fat green
onions. I might still be able to harvest some - they
could be sautéed for soups and things - but I think I’ll
leave them alone and see what they do in the spring.
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(Naturally!) superior to spinach. Maybe, if we can
find that seed catalogue again, we’ll try it.
But to be honest, my recommendation for the midwinter gardener is to stay inside with a puzzle or a
good book and a plate of non-fattening munches. If
you’ve never read anything by Ann Patchett, try Bel
Canto. (In the first few pages she tells what’s going to
happen, but I was shocked when it did.) Or read The
Kite Runner or Atonement before you go see the
movie. I enjoyed Kingsle y Amis’ Lucky Jim but it
may not seem funny if you are not familiar with the
machinations of college faculties. Or just reread an
Agatha Christie. (I had a friend who said it would be
wonderful to still be able to read The Murder of Roger
Ackroyd for the first time.) Spring will be here soon
enough with all those holes to dig and weeds to pull.
Enjoy yourself!
I have a potting shed full of tools and hoses and
“stuff” which all needs to be sorted, reconditioned,
and stowed neatly away for the next growing season.
Did you know rusty old shovels can be soaked in
Coca-Cola and will emerge shiny clean and ready to
be sharpened? I’ve seen it done, although I am too
cheap to buy all that coke.
Now is a great time to prune those dormant fruit trees.
In our mini-orchard the Asian pear looks like
something from Jack-and-the-beanstalk. Now is my
chance to bring it back to a more desirable height.
Some folks suggest peach trees should be left
untrimmed until the fruit sets; then you can see how
much of the new crop you need to thin. (I tried that
last year and the frost killed everything; now I have
two years’ worth of excess branches.) When the
temperature gets above 32 degrees and the sun comes
out, I may frolic or freeze among the fruit trees. But I
seem to have other obligations on days when the
weather is good. (N.B., Don’ prune flowering bushes
until after the bloom in the spring! You’ll lose a
year’s worth of flowers.)
The articles in this newsletter have been
provided for you by University of Illinois
Extension, Pike County office.
The following have contributed articles to this
newsletter:
Duane Lanchester
David Robson
Martha Smith
Sandra Mason
Duane Friend
Elizabeth Wahle
Pike Co. Master Gardener
Horticulture Educator
Horticulture Educator
Horticulture Educator
Natural Resources Educator
Ext. Specialist, Horticulture
Compiled and Designed by Cheryl Westfall, Secretary
If you have any questions or comments regarding the issue of
“Down To Earth”, please contact University of Illinois Extension,
Pike County, at (217) 285-5543.
Jennifer Mowen, County Extension Director
And I can spend time with all those seed catalogues.
In less than a month some people will be scattering
lettuce seed - on top of the snow if necessary - to get
an early crop. And my wife found something we’ve
never tried that is advertised as spinach-like but
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign College of
Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences
United States Department of Agriculture • Local Extension
Councils Cooperating
University of Illinois Extension provides equal opportunities in
programs and employment.