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Acne Solutions Paramedical Skin Revision Version 01: December 2014 We believe that better skin leads to a better life. We believe in creating confidence. We believe a beautiful day starts with beautiful skin. We believe in being the best version of yourself and smiling at the reflection in the mirror. We believe in loving your skin, and that great skin lights up the world. We believe that everyone deserves great skin. We believe in giving you the skin you dream of and we believe in happy skin. Your Journey to Great Skin. Before After Before After Before After Before After © 2006 Courtesy Leanne Cave, Skin for Life Before After Before After © 2006 Courtesy Leanne Cave, Skin for Life 4 Before After Before After © 2006 Courtesy Leanne Cave, Skin for Life Introduction DMK Acne Solutions DMK offers an acne solution for all ages, skin conditions and genetic backgrounds. With over 40 years of research and experience in 30 different countries, DMK is one of the world’s leading providers of paramedical skin revision. It has been over forty years since Danné Montague-King founded the DMK skin care system and embarked on a journey that would transform lives. Frustrated by the absence of a treatment for his own acne, Danné was inspired to create a solution with deep and long lasting results. By rebuilding skin, we rebuild lives. DMK Acne Solutions is a collection of successful techniques developed by DMK for revising acne. They are based on a natural healing approach using various modalities and botanical chemistry to restore skin functionality. This manual outlines the acne condition, it's causes and types and how to diagnose it correctly. It provides an introduction to DMK products, formulated specifically for use on acne-prone skin, and the protocols and treatments used by DMK skin technicians that achieve optimum results. By the end of this course, DMK Technicians should be able to: Understand and explain the origin and causes of acne. Diagnose different types of acne. Conduct treatments for different types of acne. Prescribe Home Prescriptive products designed to help resolve the acne condition. Forty years of helping people discover healthy, beautiful skin. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 5 DMK Acne Solutions Contents Origins of acne................................................ 8 Case Study – Jessika.................................... 20 Accutane®...................................................... 21 What is acne?.................................................. 8 Erythromycin® 2% (topical gel)...................... 21 The chain of events that lead to acne............. 8 Tetracycline and Minocin®............................. 21 Part 1 – The Acne Condition............................... 8 Biology of acneic skin................................... 10 Progression of an acneic lesion.................... 10 Acne formation in the follicle......................... 11 Part 2 – Diagnosing Acne................................. 12 Types of acne................................................ 12 The four grades of acne................................ 13 The acne wave.............................................. 13 6 Part 4 – DMK Professional Products for Acne.. 22 Retosin........................................................... 22 DMK Efa Plus................................................. 24 Part 5 – DMK Home Prescriptives for Acne...... 27 Standard Home Prescriptives for acne......... 27 Standard Home Prescriptives regime for acne.... 28 Weekly Home Maintenance.......................... 29 Part 3 – Causes of Acne.................................... 14 ACU-KLENZ.................................................. 30 Consultation checklist................................... 14 FIBROMAX C™............................................. 31 Acne is genetic.............................................. 14 Pore Reduction Drops................................... 32 Stress............................................................ 15 Beta Gel......................................................... 34 Hormones...................................................... 16 Direct Delivery Vitamin C............................... 36 Menstrual cycle and pregnancy.................... 16 ACU-MIST...................................................... 38 Pressure/friction............................................ 17 ACU-KLEAR.................................................. 39 Picking........................................................... 17 ACU-MOIST................................................... 40 Hair shaft....................................................... 17 ACU-THERM.................................................. 41 Lipid abnormalities........................................ 17 Solar Damage Gel......................................... 42 Humidity/climate............................................ 17 Actrol Powder................................................ 44 Industrial chemicals...................................... 17 DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB....... 45 Diet................................................................ 17 DMK SOLEIL DEFENCE 50+ UVA & UVB.... 46 Drugs............................................................. 18 Foamy Lift...................................................... 47 What types of drugs cause acne?................ 18 Micro Peel...................................................... 48 Cosmetics..................................................... 19 Acu Masque.................................................. 49 Case Study – William Rickard....................... 19 Dermatox....................................................... 50 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Part 6 – DMK Acne Treatments......................... 51 Part 7 – Professional Acne Treatment Programs.... 62 Acne Quick Peel & Enzyme Treatment.......... 51 Treatment overview........................................ 62 Design a program for acne........................... 51 Example – 12 week program for inflamed acne................................................ 63 Acne Prozyme & Enzyme Treatment............. 52 Acne Hydradermaze Treatment.................... 53 AlphaZyme.................................................... 54 Acne Evacuderm Treatment Program........... 54 Red Vein Protocol – R.V.T.............................. 55 Eliminaire....................................................... 56 ACUTROL Basic............................................ 56 ACUTROL Advanced.................................... 57 Warnings for the use of pH Revision............. 58 FRP (Face Remodelling Procedure) Treatment Program........................................ 58 Example – 12 week program for non-inflamed acne........................................ 64 Acne scar revision......................................... 66 Enzyme skin tightening treatments............... 66 Microdermabrasion....................................... 66 Pro Alpha Six-layer Peel................................ 67 pH Revision for scarring................................ 67 Alkalize the tissues........................................ 67 Hydradermaze............................................... 67 AlphaZyme.................................................... 67 RP for Body Protocol..................................... 61 RP (Remodelling Procedures)....................... 67 Remodelling Procedure post-treatment for break-outs................................................ 61 Pro Peel......................................................... 67 Scar Revision Treatment Protocols............... 68 The Effective Treatment of Acne....................... 70 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 7 Part 1 The Acne Condition Acne – deriving from the Greek word, meaning "point". Origins of acne What is acne? Acne has five contributing etiologic or medical causes: sebaceous glands, androgens, keratin plugging, bacteria and inflammation. Technically known as retention hyperkeratosis, acne is a chronic inflammatory condition of the pilosebaceous (hair follicle and its sebaceous gland). There is no single cause for oily and acne prone skin. Acne can be a genetic condition or caused by external factors. Common contributing factors to acne include: Hormonal fluctuations. It is characterized by comedos (blackheads), macules (discoloured spots), papules (inflammatory elevation of skin not containing pus), pustules, cysts and scars. Stress. The chain of events that lead to acne Medication. At puberty the body starts producing testosterone. Climatic conditions. Cosmetic ingredients that irritate the skin and clog pores. Drugs. Hereditary conditions. An enzyme in the skin changes testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (biologically active metabolite of the hormone testosterone formed primarily in the prostate gland, testes and hair follicles). Dihydrotestosterone stimulates the sebaceous glands to begin the production of sebum. Sebum sets off retention hyperkeratosis or acne in the acne-prone follicle. 8 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Keratosis Retention Keratosis, or the growth of keratin on the skin, occurs as the cells move upward from the basal layer (innermost layer of the epidermis) towards the surface. As they move into the layer of the stratum corneum, they lose moisture content and flatten out until they are almost entirely made up of a hard and impervious protein known as keratin. The excessive dumping of cells into the follicle cause the cells to clump up or stick together, making it difficult for the follicular secretions to wash this mass of dead skin cells up and out into the surface of the skin. Approximately 14 cell layers thick, the thickness of the stratum corneum is maintained by exfoliating one cell layer per day. Exfoliation on the skin’s surface occurs as cells are naturally rubbed off. Inside the follicle, however, the cells must rely on the follicular secretion (sebum) to push the mass up and out to the surface. Hyper In acne-prone follicles, cells shed four to five times faster than the normal rate of one cell layer per day, giving rise to the term hyperkeratosis. www.dannemking.com This mass or impaction, also called a microcomedone, is the root of the acne problem and must be addressed if acne is to be brought under control. Retention hyperkeratosis The acne condition is caused therefore, by a combination of factors including excess cell turnover, bacteria and excess sebum or oil flow. Acne peaks between the ages of 14 to 17 in females and 16 to 19 in males. Up to 40% of females and 35% of males are affected by acne during these peak years. However, adult acne is increasing today due to stress, medications and environmental factors. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 9 Biology of acneic skin The five major factors in the origin of acne are: Increased sebum production. Ductal hypercornification or keratin plugging caused by cells keratinising too early. This results in blockages deep down in hair shafts and sebaceous glands. An impaired acid mantle or abnormality in the microflora of the skin. By products of P-acne bacteria (Propionebacterium) can produce inflammation and stimulate the process of pustule formation. Hormones creating elevated androgen activity (adrenal activity and testosterone). 10 www.dannemking.com Progression of an acne lesion Microcomedo A lesion in the beginning stages where an invisible impaction is deep in the follicle. Closed comedo Small white seed beneath the skin as the impaction grows it becomes visible. Easy to see if you stretch the skin. Comedo Acne impaction. Papule Circumscribed, solid elevation of skin with no visible fluid. Pustule Elevation of skin with visible fluid. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Hair follicle_normal Acne formation in the follicle When an excessive amount of keratinized cells block the opening of the follicle, the trapped sebum becomes a perfect breeding ground for bacteria. This bacteria attaches to the bottom of the clogged mass becoming inflamed then creating a pimple. Epidermis Dermis Sebaceous gland Normal hair follicle Subcutis Hair follicle_blocked Comedo Dermis Trapped sebum Trapped hair follicle Subcutis Hair follicle_inflamed Comedo Inflamed tissue Rupture into dermis Pus Trapped hair follicle Subcutis Source: The Human Body, Bostock, Luke, Merrell. 1989. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 11 Part 2 Diagnosing Acne Acne is diagnosed as either INFLAMED or NON-INFLAMED, and can be graded from 1 to 4 depending on the severity. Types of acne Type 1: Non-inflamed acne Type 2: Inflamed acne Closed comedo: As dead skin cells become progressively impacted, the lesion enlarges into a closed comedo. Although there is a small opening at the top, it is termed ‘closed’ because the opening is unable to dilate and move onto the surface. When the pressure inside the follicle exceeds the strength of the follicle wall, the follicular lining will rupture, spilling the contents of the follicle into the dermal tissue. The body’s immune system reacts immediately, viewing the impaction as an invader. It sends white blood cells (leukocytes) into the area to try to dissolve the impaction initiating inflammation and a papule forms. Open comedo (blackhead): As more cells compact in the lesion, the surface opening dilates from internal pressure. The follicle opening becomes large, exposing the content to the surface air. The surface of the impaction oxidizes and turns a brownish-black, causing what is known as a blackhead. Once a closed comedo progresses to an open comedo, the impaction has opened up and the cell is ready to expel its contents. The pressure is off. The impaction may expel naturally, but treatment will expedite the process. Clearly, non-inflamed is the more desirable condition because there is virtually no scarring or pain. Before 12 www.dannemking.com After Inflammation is a response from the body to a break in the follicle wall, signalled by itching, swelling and tenderness of a lesion. Within the first 72 hours of the follicular break, the white blood cells may clump together, forming pus which will migrate to the surface, bringing the impacted material with it (pustule). The acne ends after the impaction and the resulting inflammation is extracted. Scar damage depends on the speed and intensity of the inflammation. If it happened quickly, there may be no scar left at all. However, if the follicular break is deeper (nodule) or the impaction is driven deeper by picking, the inflammation may last for several more days or even weeks and the loss of tissue and depth of scarring can be significant. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Papules, pustules, nodules and cysts are the four lesions that occur when inflammation sets in. The DMK skin technician's goal when working with inflamed acne, is to reduce the inflammation as quickly as possible. This is the objective of the treatments provided in this manual. Grade 3 – Inflamed This type of acne is probably the most common. It consists of inflamed papules and pustules along with the milder stages of acne – open and closed comedones. Grade 4 – Inflamed Before Grade 4 acne is built up from Grades 1 to 3. It consists of open and closed comedones, large papules, pustules and cysts. Grade 4 acne is often accompanied by severe inflammation which becomes very red and even purplish. It is the most scarring type of acne, but it responds the most rapidly to treatment. After The four grades of acne Grade 1 Grade 2 Grade 3 Grade 4 NonInflamed Inflamed Inflamed Inflamed Open Comedo Small Papule Large Papule Large Papule Closed Comedo Small Pustule Large Pustule Large Pustule Not all sebaceous glands mature at the same time. During adolescence they start to mature and begin producing oil in a progression that moves across the face and body like a wave. This process accounts for acne occurring in the face and body at different ages. Nodules Cysts The wave action is usually: The acne wave Dermatologists often divide acne vulgaris into four major grades: Central forehead, nose and chin. Grade 1 – Non-inflamed Jaw line, upper neck and lower back. The mildest grade consisting of open and closed comedones. This is a non-inflamed condition. Understanding this wave phenomenon helps us to stay ahead of the acne and keep it under control. Cheeks, upper chest and upper back. Grade 2 – Non-inflamed This is a unique type of acne where the face becomes studded with closed comedones (white heads). This process is called maturation arrest because the comedones do not go ahead and mature into blackheads. Instead, they continue to enlarge with the surface opening and never dilate, thus trapping the material inside. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 13 Part 3 Causes of Acne A thorough client questionnaire and consultation is vital to identifying the various causes of acne. This will help you understand more about your client’s lifestyle, family history, and other factors. Consultation checklist Use the following checklist to pinpoint potential causes of acne: 1.What products are you using? 2.Do you smoke? Drink? Take recreational drugs? 3.Do you suffer stress at work? At home? 4.Do you have a family history of acne? 5. Menstrual cycle? 6. Medications, contraceptive pill? 7. Digestion? 8. Sleep? 9. Have you recently changed climate? 10. Diet and lifestyle? If you have tried everything and still cannot clear the skin, chances are that one or more of the following factors could be delaying your progress. Acne is genetic While all acne has identical underlying physiological and anatomical influences, research shows that genetic predisposition is the most powerful factor. If both parents have acne, approximately three out of four of their offspring will develop acne. If one parent has acne, two of their four offspring will develop acne. It is important to know as much about the client’s family acne history as possible. Chances are that the client will have the same acne type, severity, scarring patterns and burnout ages as their parents. Studies measuring the levels of acne-causing hormones have found similar levels between acne patients and those with healthy skin. So it’s not the absolute levels of these hormones that cause acne, but how acne-prone skin reacts to them. One example is the increased conversion of testosterone to DHT. And this is where genes come into play. Because of genetic factors acne patients are deficient in nuclear transcription factor FoxO1. Sebum production and skin cell growth are out of control in acne patients. FoxO1 acts like a break to these processes, and its malfunctioning. 14 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In FoxO1 reduces sensitivity to androgens by suppressing androgen receptors and regulates cell growth and inflammation. Insulin and IGF-1 can make the situation even worse by further reducing FoxO1 levels. vitamin A can help to restore FoxO1. Genes also influence the production of anti-inflammatory chemicals in the skin, and because of factors like these some people get acne and some other people don’t, even if you have identical diets, lifestyle and other environmental factors. What ‘acne genes’ do They increase your propensity to develop acne. They modify the physiology of your skin to be more sensitive to hormones and other factors. Genes influence how sensitive your skin is to hormones, therefore similar levels of androgen hormones have different effects on acne-prone and healthy skin. Because of this, acne-prone skin produces more sebum and has a faster rate of skin cell growth. Stress Most experts agree that stress is the number one aggravating factor in acne, a major factor which in turn contributes to the increased number of women with acne. When under stress, the pituitary gland sends messages to the adrenal and testicle glands to produce more androgens (male hormones). Extra male hormones circulating in the body set off the Retention Hyperkeratosis cycle. Stress affects us physically at our most vulnerable point. In acne-prone individuals that is the follicle. The follicle wall is stretched to capacity and easily breaks down causing inflammation. Elevated cortisol levels cause an increase in blood sugar. This in turn causes an instant response from our cells as they enter an extreme inflammatory mode. Cortisol the stress hormone increases androgens, increases inflammation, and makes the system more acidic. Genes influence the strength of inflammatory response to bacteria. It’s known that acne patients have far stronger inflammatory response to P. Acnes bacteria and other minor injuries. Genetic acne Before www.dannemking.com After DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 15 Hormones Hormones play an important role in skin physiology and acne. Hormones have the ability to change messages and instructions within our body. An increase in the amount of androgens that stimulate the sebaceous glands can cause acne in both males and females. Here’s how these hormones affect the skin: IGF-1 stimulates the growth of sebocytes and thus increases sebum production. This makes skin cells grow faster. It also stimulates the synthesis of androgens in the testes and ovaries, making the skin more sensitive to androgens. So while insulin and IGF-1 act on the skin directly, their primary effect on acne comes from the fact that they multiply the effect of androgens. Acne belongs to the group of hyper androgenic diseases, which means conditions characterized by the excessive production of androgens. Other such conditions are polycystic ovary syndrome and male pattern baldness, and that’s why they can appear together with acne. Here’s how androgens directly affect acne: Increase sebum production, much like IGF-1 does, stimulate the growth of skin cells. Hinders separation of dead skin cells. Increase inflammation. Testosterone and DHT up-regulate inflammatory response. This not only makes the pimple bigger and more painful but also slows down healing of the wound. Androgens may affect acne also indirectly by weakening the skin barrier function. Healthy skin barrier retains moisture and prevents entry for bacteria and other pathogens. 16 www.dannemking.com Weaker skin barrier function makes the skin just that much more prone to acne. Studies have shown that acne-prone skin has markedly weaker skin barrier function than healthy skin, androgens play a role in this. Multiplier effect: conversion of testosterone to DHT. The human skin is not just a passive organ. It actively processes and creates hormones. One example of this is the conversion of testosterone to DHT, which is up to 10 times more potent than testosterone. An enzyme called 5-alpha reductase is responsible for this conversion. Another difference between acne-prone and healthy skin: In acne-prone people this enzyme is much more active. IGF-1 further stimulates this conversion. Luckily there are substances known as 5-alpha reductase inhibitors. Menstrual cycle and pregnancy Some women feel that they break out during menstruation. In reality, the outbreak usually occurs 10 to 14 days before they begin to menstruate. This is due to hormonal activity which triggers an increase of sebum production. Pregnancy can affect the skin in each woman differently. During the first three months of pregnancy, acne-prone women usually have an outbreak due to hormonal changes, but in the last six months, the body is flooded with extra estrogen which reduces sebum flow. Low estrogen pills are acne-aggravators. The buzzword “low dose” really means high androgen (male hormone) which increases sebum. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Pressure/friction irritant acid substances and pus. With nowhere else to go, the pus bursts the hair follicle and seeps into the dermal tissue. The skin becomes inflamed, and a white-headed pimple forms. Acne is aggravated by the constant rubbing and touching of the skin. Increased pressure on a follicle that is on the verge of breakdown can initiate inflammation. Hard scrubbing and over-exfoliation also exacerbates the problem by over-accelerating oil production. Lipid abnormalities Picking If the skin is not properly prepared when pressure is applied to expel the follicular debris, there is not an adequate opening for the debris to move to the surface. This forces the follicle to break down and imbed the matter deeper in the skin tissue. Hair shaft Acne cannot form without sebaceous gland activity. Increased sebaceous lipid production or a compositional mix can exasperate acne. Research shows that acne sufferers demonstrate high levels of free fatty acids and low levels of linoleic acid. Humidity/climate The swelling or hyperhydration of the skin due to hot and humid climates can break down the fragile follicle and cause inflammation. The hair shaft is not merely a hair factory. Researchers have discovered that the hair follicle is the source of new cells for the skin’s outermost layer. When a hair is present in a sebaceous gland, it is called a sebaceous follicle. Industrial chemicals NOTE: Every hair is associated with a sebaceous gland, but not every sebaceous gland is associated with hair follicles. Diet The comedo or blackhead is one of the most common skin blemishes. Large numbers of blackheads occurring together result in acne. Blackheads are caused by sebum; a mixture of waxes and fatty acids produced by the skin’s sebaceous glands. During puberty, increased hormonal activity encourages these glands to produce more sebum. Dead skin cells accumulate in the minute pit around the base of a hair, mix with sebum and form a plug that stops further sebum from escaping. Enzymes from bacteria in neighbouring sebaceous glands then get to work, forming www.dannemking.com Some chemicals, such as coal and grease, are potent. When they come into contact with the skin, they are capable of aggravating acne. Although most experts agree that chocolate and greasy foods do not cause acne, it is also known that what you eat can show up on your skin, and one way this happens is through hormones. Studies link acne to Western-style diets (high in sugar and calories), eating sugar and refined carbohydrates causes the pancreas to release large amounts of insulin and IGF-1. Over time this type of diet leads to insulin resistance and chronically high levels of these acne-causing hormones. Eating minimally processed low glycemic index foods can reverse the situation, and this has been now demonstrated in several studies. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 17 But it’s not only sugar that gives you pimples; dairy products are also to blame. What’s the role of milk? To help baby cows grow. Milk has plenty of IGF-1 and other growth hormones. These hormones make their way into your blood and eventually to your skin where they stimulate sebum production and skin cell growth. Drugs Certain drugs go beyond aggravating acne and actually cause acne in skins which would otherwise not be vulnerable. Marijuana aggravates acne because it briefly lowers testosterone levels then rapidly raises these levels producing an imbalance in hormones. Corticosteroids – These are essentially fake hormones. They are a treatment for hives and eczema. However since they are ‘fake’ hormones, they have been known to cause acne since it’s dealing with hormones this is really no surprise. Oral or topical corticosteroids. Bromides. Iodides. Phenyton. Lithium Carbonate – anti-depressant. Contraceptives – sometimes cause acne because they are dealing with hormones. Usually women who already have an acne problem find that contraceptives tend to make acne better. However this isn’t the case in all women. High dose of vitamin B12. Cocaine. Dilantin – Epilepsy, anticonvulsant. Speed (amphetamines). Danazol – Hormone management trade name Danocrin. What types of drugs cause acne? Here is a list of a few drugs that have been known to cause acne in some patients. Lithium – Lithium is a mood stabilizer that is prescribed for people suffering from depression or bi-polar disorder. Some patients taking Lithium have found that it causes acne outbreaks. Often people who take Lithium www.dannemking.com Dehydroepiandrosterone (DHE) – is an antiageing hormone and is also used as a type of steroid hormone. The DHE is converted into testosterone and as a side effect produces more hair which tends to cause pores to become clogged and can eventually lead to acne. Barbiturates – Barbiturates are addictive drugs that are often prescribed as sedatives to patients. Doctors have been advised to not prescribe them because they are so addictive. However, they are still used in treating anxiety and stress. The other downfall is that they tend to cause acne. Drugs known to cause acne-like lesions: 18 suffer from acne outbreaks occurring on the back and/or chest. Anabolic-Androgenic Steroids – This type of drug known for its use in bodybuilding and sports. Patients may suffer from acne on the back, chest and shoulders and rarely on the face. However women tend to be the opposite, getting acne more on their face and are less prone to getting it on their back, chest or shoulders. Cocaine – Not only is cocaine a dangerous drug with many nasty side effects, it also can cause acne due to the changes in DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In testosterone and estrogen that it causes during and after administration of the drug. Chronic cocaine use has also been proven to disrupt the menstrual cycle in women, which can really mess with hormones and cause acne outbreaks to occur. Anticonvulsants – Certain anti-convulsants such as the drug Dilantin prescribed for seizures and epilepsy have been shown to cause acne as a side effect. Thyroid medications – Some thyroid medications have been proven to cause acne in patients. Large amounts of Iodine, which is sometimes also used to help control thyroid function, can also cause breakouts to occur. Sobriety Medications – For some recovering alcoholics sobriety medications such as Disulfiram that are prescribed to help alcoholics break the habit of drinking, may find that in some cases the recurring use of Antabuse, has been known to cause acne outbreaks. Case Study After several DMK treatments for both inflamed acne and associated scarring, William is now a renewed teenage boy, whose confidence and handsome looks have been completely restored. As far as life changing results go, William says, “I would recommend DMK to anyone who suffers with any type of acne; it will change you and your life, that’s a fact.” William Rickard (pictured) Before Cosmetics After 4 treatments Comedogenicity is the tendency of the skin’s pores to clog when exposed to a certain cosmetic ingredient. Comedones caused by cosmetics will protrude from the pore instead of being imbedded in the skin. The skin around these comedones will be free of redness. Cosmetic acne is easy to spot because it is localized and follows a predictable pattern. After 9 treatments Some experts believe that fabric softeners, especially dryer sheets, can cause acne on virtually anyone. However, this has not been proven. There is no panacea for people with comedogenic skin. Theirs is a life long struggle to avoid products that will tend to clog their pores. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 19 Case Study “A gradual and steady decline in my skin caused me to be one of the many victims dying for clear skin. Along with severe Acne distorting my physical appearance, it claimed my confidence, joy, self esteem, and self worth. At age 19 I shrank from the world, locking myself away, hiding from everyone and refusing to even take a glimpse at my reflection. The Acne covered my entire face and neck, it was sore to the touch, red, raised and constantly bleeding. I would go to sleep and awake to blood on my pillow. I was ashamed of my own appearance, not being able to look anyone in the eyes. In my desperation I paid £180 for an alleged cure, Roaccutane; this drug appeared to be a light in the darkness, my last chance, despite the poignant concern over the high suicidal side-effects. But after being advised to watch the Dying for Clear Skin program the day after my consultation, any desire to use Roaccutane was obliterated. The DMK treatments and home care products (which work hand in hand), have changed my life and the daily regime that I implement in caring for my skin. As Danné has stated “no two Acne patients skin is the same”, and I love that each patient’s treatment is personalised to that individual’s needs. I’ve been undergoing treatments for a year and have seen a substantial difference in the quality and overall health of my skin. Without Danné and DMK I honestly don’t know where I’d be today - if living at all. It’s an ongoing battle, a daily walk, but all thanks to Danné and DMK, I envision myself winning. 20 www.dannemking.com I was so enamoured by my therapist, Susanne’s drive and diligence to hear my heart’s cry and bring that desire to life. I’m sure you’re all aware of the Walt Disney Classic Cinderella and the pivotal moment she’s left alone, distraught and without hope of anything better. Her Fairy Godmother appears and blesses her with the chance of a greater tomorrow. Susanne has rightly earned the pseudo title of my Fairy Godmother. I’ll be forever in her debt. Danné, you are one of my heroes. I constantly think about your determination to secure a solution for this dreadful skin disorder. Your tenacity and integrity; never allowing Acne to defeat you-and now us! You inspire me to want to be better, to do better. You’ve given me the opportunity to chase my career dreams in the public eye and to do something as simple as walk the streets in daylight with my head held high. I thank my Heavenly Father for your life and your pursuits to further the DMK line. I pray He blesses you in all good endeavours. Once again thank you for all you have attained on our behalf! Jessika (pictured) Before After DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Accutane® Erythromycin® 2% (topical gel) Accutane® (Isotretinoin) is an extremely potent and highly controversial systemic drug that is used in the treatment of severe, recalcitrant, cystic or treatment resistant acne. It is prescribed only by doctors and works by literally shutting down the sebaceous activity in the body. Erythromycin® is an antibiotic used to suppress the P-acne bacteria. Adverse reactions include dryness, tenderness, itchiness, desquamation, erythema, oiliness and a burning sensation. 18% of patients exposed to Erythromycin® experienced some type of adverse effect. NOTE: DMK skin technicians cannot treat people who have taken Accutane® in the last 6 to 12 months. The use of antibiotic agents may be associated with the overgrowth of antibiotic-resistant organisms which can translate into yeast infections in women. Clinical pharmacology The exact mechanism of Accutane® is unknown. Clinical improvement in cystic acne patients occurs in association with a reduction in sebum secretion. The decrease in sebum secretion is temporary and is related to the dose and duration of treatment. It reflects a reduction in the size of the sebaceous gland size. Side effects can include: Severe birth defects. Diabetes. Kidney malfunction. Dry and peeling skin. Gum inflammation and bleeding. Tetracycline and Minocin® Used to suppress the P-acne bacteria, these chemicals filter through to the skin and become bound to the protein in the stratum corneum. They kill a relatively small amount of the bacteria. Side effects include fetal harm when administered to a pregnant woman and tooth discoloration in infants and children up to 8 years old. Photosensitivity manifested by an exaggerated sunburn reaction has been observed in some individuals taking tetracycline, although rarely in people taking Minocin®. Concurrent use of tetracycline may render oral contraceptives less effective. Severe sun sensitivity. Aching joints. Nausea and vomiting. Infertility. Depression or anxiety (even leading to suicide). Regular pregnancy testing, foolproof birth control and blood tests are mandatory. Accutane® is only effective in the case of severe, inflammatory cystic acne. Any lesser grade does not respond to the treatment. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 21 Part 4 DMK Professional Products for Acne Retosin Retosin is a signature DMK formulation designed to strengthen the skin and regulate the natural rhythm of cellular proliferation. Diagnostic Retosin was designed as a nightly crème for acne skins or clients undergoing an acne or scar revision program, to regulate dysfunctions that contribute to acne and restore balance and rebuild the skin. Key ingredients Retinyl Palmitate – A keratolytic antioxidant with exfoliating properties that neutralizes free radicals which attack the skin’s primary structure. It also extends the life of the cell and helps to promote collagen production and regulate cell proliferation. Beta Carotene – Pure strength plant extract, a precursor for other vitamin A derivatives and acts as an antioxidant. Retinol (vitamin A – Enzymatically converted to Retinoic Acid as needed, giving it many regulating and rebuilding benefits to acne. Resorcinol – Suppresses melanin, enhances penetration and aids in exfoliation. It also has antiseptic and anti-seboraic (anti-flaking) qualities, and kills acne bacteria. Cholecalciferol – Biologically speaking, antioxidant, Cholecalciferol is a hormone 22 www.dannemking.com that’s essential to the body’s immune system. With regards to skin care, this ingredient is mostly known for treating rapid cell growth in psoriatic skin. Topical supplementation with Cholecalciferol increased measurements of skin moisturization significantly improving skin moisture. Retinoids Retinoids are a class of chemical compounds related to vitamin A that are used in medicine for their ability to regulate cell growth. Skin cells change structurally as they move away from the basal layer. Retinoids act as regulators for cellular differentiation. This results in the regulation of keratinization of the cells, and normalizing exfoliation. Retosin acts to: Normalize abnormal cell division. Work with growth receptors that depend on them for stimulation or suppression. Reduce sebaceous fluid production. Regulate the number of fibroblasts cells and their production of collagen through the retinoid receptors in dermal fibroblast cells. Enhance RNA by transmitting instructions to each cell on how to perform. The body must be able to synthesise new RNA or cell degeneration begins. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Function Professional directions Vitamin A helps to rejuvenate the skin by promoting the growth of healthy cells and inhibiting the growth of unhealthy ones. The only way to prevent acne and ageing is to restore balance to the skin. Retosin acts against hypercornification (where cells keratinize down in the ducts causing ductal plugging). By allowing fluids to flow freely, the powerful, regenerative properties of Retinol (vitamin A) are known to promote collagen activity, kill P-acne bacteria, inhibit tyrosinase (an enzyme that catalyzes the oxidation of tyrosine into melanin and other pigments), and regulate the flow of oil and cellular proliferation. The beneficial actions of vitamin A’s are optimal when a variety of vitamin A’s are used together, rather than alone. Unlike other vitamin A products, Retosin does not penetrate the blood stream. Prescribe nightly or alternate nights during treatments depending on sensitivity. NOTE: Some clients may experience an initial sensitivity to Retosin such as redness and irritation. Discontinue use immediately. This may be temporary and they could resume application once the irritation subsides. If the skin becomes very itchy and bumpy the client should not use Retosin again. www.dannemking.com Cleanse the skin and directly apply Retosin. Do not use Herb & Mineral Mist. Clients must wear DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB during the day when using Retosin. During long-term daily applications of Retosin, the client may turn a darker, gold or orange tone. Their skin may actually look more wrinkled and dehydrated as the dead cell structure is lifting off. This is normal. Always advise your client of these conditions and reassure them that when the old cells finally shed, they will have a younger and more radiant skin. Product combinations Retosin can be used on alternate nights with Super Bright for revising pigmentation. Selling tips Retosin is an essential formulation during the skin revision treatment phase as it rebuilds, regulates and strengthens the skin. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 23 DMK Efa Plus The DMK Efa Plus supplements are a powerful group of essential fatty acids 3, 6, 7 and 9 derived from Evening Primrose and Seabuckthorn Seed Oil and provide more than 190 nutrients and bioactive substances. Diagnostic DMK Efa Plus is prescribed for a wide variety of conditions to repair the cell membranes and help rebuild a stronger healthier and better functioning skin. DMK Efa Plus improves barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss. It is particularly useful for acne and inflamed or reactive skin, pigmentation and hormonal imbalance as well as fine lines, wrinkles and ageing, saggy skin. Key ingredients Seabuckthorn – An outstanding rich source of vital nutrients, minerals and essential fatty acids. Seabuckthorn Seabuckthorn is an outstanding rich source of vital nutrients, vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids, for skin conditions from healing to age prevention. After sourcing the seed in Tibet, the DMK research team discovered multiple benefits. Seabuckthorn seed oil provides more than 190 nutrients and bioactive substances, many of which build the skin’s immune system, such as linolenic acid vitamins E and A, carotene, polyphenols, flavonoids and vital trace elements for younger appearing skin, such as copper, manganese and selenium. Seabuckthorn’s miraculous stimulation of tissue regeneration and skin cell healing combined with analgesic and anti-inflammation effects make it a valuable ingredient for skin revision treatments. Evening Primrose Oil – A rich source of essential fatty acids which help to increase free water levels, prevent transepidermal water loss and improve the structural integrity of the skin while improving barrier function. 24 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Function The health of our skin is determined by the matrix. Our matrix is the jellylike substance made up of glycoaminoglycans (GAGs) that surrounds our cells. EFAs are a major component of the lipid barrier that prevents excessive moisture loss in skin. Linolenic acids promote the repair of tissue damage, especially after aggressive skin revision treatments or cosmetic surgery. They are essential in the production of critical metabolites (intermediates of metabolism). Sitosterol, for example, improves microcirculation in the skin, while phosphatides form a protective film to prevent moisture loss and keep free radicals at bay. Individual supplements are rarely sufficient. Patients with acne, for example, tend to have higher levels of squalene and wax esters, and show lower levels of essential fatty acids. This causes sebaceous fluid to be thicker and stickier, therefore clogging the pores and ducts. By boosting the skin and body’s immune responses, DMK Efa Plus promotes the repair of damaged tissue. It helps to maintain the turgidity and bounce of skin by strengthening and maintaining the glycoaminoglycans (material that makes up the matrix) and increasing free water levels. DMK Efa Plus works quickly from INSIDE the skin, offering results within as little as three weeks. EFAs are required for the structure of all membranes in the body. They waterproof the skin, maintain the impermeable barrier of the skin, and act as precursors for the production of prostaglandins, which regulate all cell functions. Prostaglandins help regulate hormones. EFA fatty acids must be obtained from the diet. They come from an outside source and are not manufactured by our body. EFA deficiency will prevent the complete formation of the bi-layers that are responsible for corneocyte adhesion and prevent transepidermal water loss. If the skin can’t retain proper amounts of water it will not excrete waste properly and therefore stagnate and become clogged. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 25 DMK Acne Products The New Approach to Acne The Klear Collection consists of: ACU-KLENZ ACU-MIST ACU-KLEAR ACU-MOIST ACU-THERM Part 5 Home Prescriptives for Acne There is no “magic bullet” in this DMK acne range, no “stand alone” miracle. Yet it took three years to assemble and put together effective ingredients balanced to address the common concerns of acne. A variety of medicines are available to fight the condition, but as is the case with many dermatological afflictions, the underlying causes are not addressed. The fact that the DMK acne range does this in such a fundamental, natural way is a drug-free miracle! The Home Prescriptives range was developed to improve and extend progress made by our professional treatments. Standard Home Prescriptives for acne ACU-MOIST The following Home Prescriptives have been specifically formulated for acne conditions: ACU-MOIST is a gentle rebalancing moisturizer designed to encourage the skin's continued hydration and enhance P-acnes bacteria guard support. ACU-KLENZ A deep cleansing gel containing Salicylic Acid. Its deep penetrating and exfoliating action helps to keep pores clean while drying up existing acne. DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB is a light non-greasy sunscreen that protects skin without clogging pores. ACU-KLEAR Actrol Powder This acne lotion helps to quickly alleviate and reduce existing acne and prevent future breakouts. Specifically formulated to reduce excess sebaceous oils, encourage healing and protect the skin. ACU-MIST To normalize the skin's acid mantle, ACU-MIST is sprayed over the face before applying ACUMOIST and work them into the skin together. www.dannemking.com ACU-THERM By creating a pseudo heat on the skin (a flushing action) this blemish gel dissolves sebum plugs relieving the pressure in congested areas helping to eliminate acne. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 27 Micro Peel Standard Home Prescriptive regime for acne Offers a quick and non-irritating method of dead cell removal, ideal for acne or congested skin. 1.Cleanse Acu Masque Ideal for oily skins prone to blemishes, Acu Masque is a diverse and versatile application that desquamates the skin’s surface and unplugs blocked ducts. The skin should be cleansed twice daily (three times for the extremely oily skins) using ACU-KLENZ or Deep Pore Pure cleanser. 2.Ice Ice inflamed lesions at least two to three times per day to reduce inflammation and give the lesion a chance to heal. Foamy Lift When combined with Exoderma Peel, Foamy Lift is a potent home maintenance masque. 3.Pore Reduction Drops (optional) Apply to reduce redness and inflammation. 4. Beta Gel Apply DMK's immune boosting serum after cleansing. 5.ACU-KLEAR Apply to areas of congestion and breakouts. 6.ACU-MOIST Spray the skin with ACU-MIST, apply ACU-MOIST to the skin and work in together. 28 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 7. Sun protection Weekly Home Maintenance DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB MUST be applied over the products. Perform a home treatment every three days. Alternate Option 1 & 2. 8.Actrol Powder Option 1 Actrol Powder can be dusted under or over foundation, as a translucent powder. Apply at night to absorb excess sebaceous flow. Cleanse, Dermatox (3 mins), Micro Peel (10 mins), Acu Masque (10 mins), finished with Home Prescriptive. 9.Revise-A, Super Bright, DMK Efa Plus and Retosin Option 2 The client can apply ACU-THERM to the pimples. Leave it for 3-5 minutes followed by Retosin or Revise-A over the top. Hyperpigmentation-prone skins can alternate Super Bright. Take 4 DMK Efa Plus supplements each day. Cleanse, Dermatox (3 mins), Foamy Lift/ Exoderma Peel (30 mins), finished with Home Prescriptive. Option 3 Cleanse, Dermatox, apply Acu Therm to the pimples and congested areas and leave on for 3 mins then blot and apply Foamy Lift mixed with Exoderma Peel (30 mins), finish with Home Prescriptive. Option 4 Cleanse, apply Red Vein Crème to the congested and red acne scarred areas, spray with Herb & Mineral Mist and work in. Apply Foamy Lift and Exoderma Peel over the top (30 mins), finish with Home Prescriptive. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 29 ACU-KLENZ Function ACU-KLENZ is a home use product designed for acne skins, including cystic inflamed acne, anywhere on the face or body. This prevents pores from clogging by slowing down the shedding of cells inside hair follicles which help to prevent acne. ACU-KLENZ is part of the DMK acne solutions system. Formulated with calming Aloe Extract to reduce redness and inflammation, ACU-KLENZ encourages pore cleansing and sebum control. ACU-KLENZ is designed to fight acne-causing bacteria leaving you with clean and clear skin. Professional directions Mix a pea sized amount with water in your hand or in a small bowl with your DMK Fan Brush. Diagnostic ACU-KLENZ is popular amongst teenagers who cannot attend treatments on a regular basis, or adults. It is suitable for clients with clogged and congested skin who are starting a skin revision program as it will control breakouts while the skin is being cleaned out. ACU-KLENZ is Benzoyl Peroxide, Paraben and Sulfate free. Massage in with dampened fingertips avoiding direct eye contact. Rinse thoroughly with water. Key Ingredients Salicylic Acid – Aids in the correction of abnormal desquamation that occurs in acne-prone skin. Salicylic Acid is especially helpful in treating acne as it aids in penetrating the follicle. Aloe Vera – Greatly reduces swelling, inflammation and redness associated with acne. Panthenol – Vitamin B5 contains antimicrobial properties that are crucial to controlling the growth and spread of bacteria. Rebalances oil production. B5 increases Coenzyme A, which is involved in the metabolism and breaking down of sebum. Botanical Extracts – Botanical antimicrobial topical antiseptic. 30 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In FIBROMAX C™ FIBROMAX C™ is an exclusive formula of liquid droplets encapsulated in Silica particles. These encapsulated droplets form a dry, free flowing powder that is predominantly liquid. This powder will remain stable under ordinary temperature or pressure. However, an increase in temperatures above 30 degrees Celsius (85 Farenheit) combined with gentle friction will loosen the links between the Silica particles, breaking the shell and releasing the liquid inside. Taurine – Taurine modulates multiple skindamaging pathways when applied topically to the skin. Specifically, evidence suggests Taurine repairs the skin barrier, rehydrates keratinocytes (the main cells of the upper skin layers), inhibits apoptosis, and reduces free radical damage. Taurine also offers antioxidant, anti-inflammatory benefits – protecting against premature ageing and environmental toxins. Taurine is believed to inhibit glycation, one of the main causes of cellular ageing. Diagnostic Silica – Essential for healthy skin. FIBROMAX C™ can be on areas of fine lines, pigmentation or any area needing lifting and support. It may help brighten the skin and protect against UVB damage, as well as benefit individuals suffering with acne or eczema. Zinc Oxide. Key Ingredients Ascorbyl Glucoside. Function Vitamin C is used by the fibroblast cell in the production of collagen, and acts as an antioxidant and free radical scavenger to protect the skin. Product combinations Hyaluronic Acid. Beta-Glucan. FIBROMAX C™ should be used immediately after a treatment, and applied first before applying any serums, spritz’s and nourishing crèmes. Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil (Seabuckthorn Seed Oil). Professional directions Carthamus Tinctorius Oil (Safflower Oil). Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract – Used in the treatment of skin damage as well as for circulatory enhancement. Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) is one of the most effective natural treatments for anti-ageing where it offers dramatic improvement in support of the skin's underlying structure... where healthy skin begins. Beta Carotene. Curcuma Longa Root Extract – Turmeric has a powerful anti-inflammatory effect. It is also a powerful antioxidant. www.dannemking.com After cleansing, pour desired amount onto palette. Using an applicator spread directly onto desired areas. It can be worked in with the fingertips. Avoid getting directly into eyes, DMK serums and creams should then be applied. Clean palette with DMKC Brush Cleaner. Store in cool (Below 30˚C or 85˚F) and dry area, away from direct sunlight. Do not shake vials and close immediately after use. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 31 Pore Reduction Drops Key Ingredients Pore Reduction Drops are designed to visibly reduce pores without stripping the skin of natural oils in an acne skin. Pore Reduction Drops reduce inflammation and suppress 5-a reductase by regulating the dysfunctions involved in acne. Laminaria Digitata (Kelp) – Seaweed contains high levels of many vitamins – solid levels of antioxidant vitamins A, C, and E, as well as D and all the Bs, including B12, plus 60 trace minerals like Calcium and Magnesium. Combine these with the moisture-giving molecules in Seaweed called Polysaccharides, and you have a superfood for the skin. Laminaria Digitata (a brown Algae) helps boost collagen production – skin is simply made healthier by using it. "It gives back exactly what your skin needs in the way of minerals and trace elements", "Like eating right, seaweed feeds the skin." Diagnostic Recommended for skins displaying large or stretched pores, red reactive skin, acne, congestion and Rosacea. Eczema, psoriasis. Ageing, sun damage. Wrinkles and glycation. Fragile capillaries, redness. This product is professionally applied after extraction. Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract (Peppermint) – Peppermint extract minerals and nutrients including; Iron, Manganese, Magnesium, Folate, Calcium, Potassium, Copper, Omega-3 Fatty Acids, vitamins A and C. Peppermint helps control and eliminate excess oil, and this in turn prevents clogged pores and acne. Dull skin becomes brighter on using Peppermint. Improves micro circulation. The menthol in Peppermint has analgesic counter-irritant properties. Medicago Sativa Extract (Alfalfa) – Aids in the absorption and assimilation of other herbs. 32 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Function Smilax Aristolochiaefolia Root Extract (Sarsaparilla) – Detoxifying agent, rich in flavanoids, plant sterols and saponins. Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract (Black Cohosh) – A botanical ingredient with calming, antiseptic properties. Refines pores. It contains the anti-inflammatory Salicylic Acid among several other constituents such as Triterpene Glycosides. Glycosides exhibit wound healing and anti-inflammatory activities and stimulate the formation of lipids and proteins necessary for healthy skin. Pore Reduction Drops has significant advantages over astringents, alcohols, or abrasives. Pore Reduction Drops use an ionized solution to carry the herbal properties into the skin without using electrical modalities. The solution helps to clear the pores and allows them to refine naturally. Minimizes the appearance of open pores, purifying, good for acne and congested skin. Calming, good for reactive inflamed skin. Professional directions Salvia Officinalis Extract (Sage) – An anti-bacterial, anti-stress and astringent botanical extract. Verbascum Thapsus Extract (Mullein) – Acts as a natural skin antibiotic and anti-irritant. Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Seed Extract (Fenugreek) – A herbal extract used to stimulate surface capillaries to reduce inflammatory conditions in the skin. It is also used to retain moisture in the epidermis. Apply directly to a perfectly cleansed skin, morning and evening, after a professional treatment where the pores have been evacuated. Leave on skin, do not rinse. Follow with your other DMK products. Humulus Lupulus Extract (Hops) – A rich source of natural protein and acts as an astringent and calming agent on the skin. They are also an excellent source of Vitamin C. Cayenne – Increases the blood flow to the surface of the skin. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 33 Beta Gel This DMK signature formula is designed to address acne, Rosacea and reactive, irritated or inflamed skin. Diagnostic Beta Gel was originally formulated for acne clients who found Betagen too rich for their skin. It can be used on a wide variety of skin conditions including acne, congestion and Rosacea. It has been particularly successful on traumatized skin, sutures and staples and in treatments for pre and post-operative clients. Smokers, slow healers and skins suffering from environmental damage, eczema or psoriasis also benefit. Key ingredients Betaglucan – Protects and repairs the immune function and stimulates Langerhans cells to reduce swelling, redness and inflammation and promotes healing. Witch Hazel – Soothes and relieves the pain of irritated or inflamed conditions. Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (Pal-GHK) – Consists of a short chain of three amino acids (a.k.a. GHK Peptide or Glycine-Histidine-Lysine) connected to Palmitic Acid. Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid added to improve the peptide’s oil solubility and thus skin penetration. The Peptide GHK is a fragment of type I collagen molecule and is believed to serve as a biological indicator of increased degradation of the skin matrix. Indeed, when collagen is degraded, more of its small fragments are created in the body, including GHK. Furthermore, GHK is believed to stimulate 34 www.dannemking.com the feedback loop triggering the synthesis of new collagen as well as other components of the skin matrix. When the key skin matrixproducing cells (fibroblasts) detect increased levels of GHK, they “assume” that the skin matrix is being lost at a higher rate and begin synthesizing it more vigorously. Thus, Pal-GHK (a version of GHK designed for better skin penetration) is intended to stimulate skin matrix replenishment via topical application, leading, to wrinkle reduction, skin firming and other benefits. Another interesting point about the GHK is that it is a part of another well known skin care ingredient, the Copper Peptide Cu-GHK. Copper Peptides are known to improve wound healing, activate skin remodeling, improve the structure of skin matrix, reduce scarring and exert other beneficial effects on the skin. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Pal-GQPR) – Works by reducing the production of Interleukin-6 (IL-6) by the key skin cells, Keratinocytes and Fibroblasts. IL-6 is a molecule that promotes inflammation, which, in turn, leads to faster degradation of the skin matrix and thus contributes to the development of wrinkles and loss of skin firmness and elasticity. Combing Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 not just because two active ingredients are better then one, these two peptides produce a synergy when used together, i.e. the skin benefits of such combination are greater than what one would expect if each agent’s effects were independent of each other. Here’s a fictitious example of synergy to illustrate the point: Ingredient A causes a 10% improvement and ingredient B causes a 15% percent improvement whereas A+B combo causes DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In a 60% improvement (as opposed to the expected 25% improvement). A tissue culture study of the synergy between Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 showed an increase of the synthesis of skin matrix roughly 2.5-3.5 times. In particular, the synthesis of collagen type I increased by 258%, Fibronectin - by 164% and Hyaluronic Acid - by 179%. Turmeric Extract – Boosts immune responses in the skin. Antioxidants – Softens rough and scaly skin whilst fighting free radical damage. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate – A stabilized source of vitamin C which helps to strengthen and repair the skin, whilst inhibiting Tyrosinase (an enzyme that catalyzes the oxidation of Tyrosine into melanin and other pigments). Safflower Oil (Carthamus Tinctorius) – An antioxidant rich in vitamin A. Safflower Oil is rich in linoleic acid (almost 79 percent), an essential fatty acid that offers many benefits for skin, including maintenance of cell membrane integrity. Linoleic acid is also an important carrier of vitamins A, D, K, and especially vitamin E. It helps maintain skin elasticity by enabling the skin to retain moisture and removes dry skin. Safflower Oil helps to treat damage and inflammation. Reduces the appearance of wrinkles by smoothing and hydrating the skin. Tocopherol – A natural vitamin E which accumulates in the epidermis and forms a barrier against moisture evaporation. It is a major antioxidant nutrient which retards cellular ageing and keeps skin healthy and youthful by inhibiting the oxidation of unsaturated lipids. www.dannemking.com Function The key ingredients of Beta Gel stimulate the Langerhans cells (the skin’s inbuilt immune system) to activate the macrophages (white blood cells which fight invaders) within the dermis. Once activated, the macrophages release a series of compounds that stimulate the fibroblast cells to produce collagen and elastin. Beta Gel contains potent antioxidant and free radical scavenging capabilities. Professional directions Apply to clean skin. Can be applied directly on sutures or closed wounds. Follow with DMK serums, oils and transepidermal crèmes. NOTE: Beta Gel has excellent results when applied in combination with Direct Delivery Vitamin C. Product combinations Direct Delivery Vitamin C and all DMK transepidermal crèmes, oils and sprays. Selling tips Beta Gel is a highly versatile formulation designed for a wide variety of skin conditions. It should form part of each client’s Home Prescriptive routine to maintain skin health and is an essential formulation for clients that are undertaking Alkaline Wash acne and scar revision treatments. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 35 Direct Delivery Vitamin C Direct Delivery Vitamin C is a highly potent serum with strong anti-ageing and antioxidant properties which inhibits and brightens pigmentation. Diagnostic In addition to its anti-ageing properties and antioxidant powers, Direct Delivery Vitamin C helps to prevent acne scarring and encourages healing. The serum is specifically formulated for darker skin tones, pigmentation, scarring and age management and is popular as a pre and post-operative treatment. Key ingredients Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) – Acts as a free radical scavenger which stimulates collagen via the fibroblast cells and suppresses melanogenisis. A potent antioxidant and antiinflammatory ingredient that acts to calm, heal and regenerate the skin. Ascorbyl Glucoside – Ascorbyl Glucoside is broken down into L-Ascorbic Acid and glucose by the enzyme Alpha-Glucosidase. Because Ascorbyl Glucoside is broken down into L-Ascorbic Acid, it has the same functions as L-Ascorbic Acid: exhibiting high antioxidant activity, acting as a coenzyme for enzymes involved in collagen synthesis (namely Prolyl and Lysyl Hydroxylase), and inhibiting the synthesis of melanin. So what are the benefits of using products with Ascorbyl Glucoside as opposed to the usual vitamin C found in 36 www.dannemking.com skin care formulations. Ascorbyl Glucoside has greater stability than L-Ascorbic Acid, which tends to break down in heat, light, in the presence of oxygen, and in certain pH levels. Ascorbyl Glucoside has excellent stability in heat, light, and in the presence of oxygen and metal ions when compared to other forms of vitamin C. This means that Ascorbyl Glucoside lasts over twice as long as other forms of vitamin C, and thereby delivers the effects of vitamin C to the skin for a longer period of time. Sodium Ascorbate – Non-acidic and more soluble than Ascorbic Acid. It is more reactive compared to Ascorbic Acid in building connective tissues. Another difference of Sodium Ascorbate from Ascorbic Acid is that it is absorbed more efficiently by the body since it provides a more bio-available source of vitamin C as opposed to Ascorbic Acid. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate – A stabilized source of vitamin C which helps to strengthen and repair the skin whilst inhibiting Tyrosinase (an enzyme that catalyzes the oxidation of Tyrosine into melanin and other pigments). Panthenol – Provides vitamin B5 and has humectant like properties that promote moisture absorption and act as a moisturizer to smooth skin. It is a biologically active substance with revitalizing and conditioning effects well known for its ability to soothe the skin. It enhances cellular stimulation, restores barrier function and aids in vital tissue repair. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Function Product combinations Regarded as one of our most powerful skin rebuilding tools, Direct Delivery Vitamin C is designed to help produce new collagen in the skin by stimulating the amino acids in the fibroblast cells. By focusing on the powers of vitamin C, it addresses areas of the skin where collagen fibres are becoming inactive. Combine with Beta Gel and Eye Tone. The serum acts to: Selling tips Direct Delivery Vitamin C is a synergistic blend of stabilized vitamin C delivered directly to the cellular level. Affect the fibroblast cells to stimulate and maximize collagen and GAGS regeneration. Provide a strength and support system for the skin. Improve texture and firmness, producing a more radiant, youthful appearance. Restore the interstitial liquid (tissue fluid) of the epidermis, bringing hydration and vitality and creating a firmer, plumper and more replenished skin. Professional directions Apply two pumps onto clean, dry skin and work in. Apply more onto areas of concern. NOTE: Direct Delivery Vitamin C must be used within 12 weeks of opening the bottle. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 37 ACU-MIST Key Ingredients Designed to help acne sufferers restore the very important acid mantle (which acts as a barrier against bacteria, and other potential contaminants), eliminating acne-causing bacteria fast, as well as hydrating the skin and protecting against trans epidermal water loss. Salicylic Acid – Aids in the correction of abnormal desquamation that occurs in acne-prone skin. Salicylic Acid is especially helpful in treating acne as it aids in penetrating the follicle. Diagnostic Function ACU-MIST is a crucial part of the Klear Collection routine. Sprayed over the skin and combined with the ACU-MOIST moisturizer, the duo work into the skin together – the mist helping the moisturizer reach into the voids of the skin. After cleansing with ACU-KLENZ spray ACU-MIST over the face and work into the skin with ACU-MOIST. Professional directions TIP: ACU-MIST can be sprayed over the face multiple times a day as an antibacterial barrier and hydrator. 38 www.dannemking.com Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract – Soothing, healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Spray directly onto cleansed skin and apply ACU-MOIST. Work into face, neck and décolleté together. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In ACU-KLEAR Function ACU-KLEAR is a Home Prescriptive product for acne prone skin. This product helps to minimize pimples and control acne breakouts. ACU-KLEAR has an anti-bacterial action fighting the acne-causing bacteria. Diagnostic ACU-KLEAR can be used on acne conditions on either the face or the body. Key Ingredients Salicylic Acid – Aids in the correction of abnormal desquamation that occurs in acne-prone skin. Salicylic Acid is especially helpful in treating acne as it aids in penetrating the follicle. Azelamide – Inhibitor of 5-a reductase (type 1). A sebum-balancer for greasy skin, seborrhoeic skin and melanic spots. Draws down into the follicle and kills the acnecausing bacteria. Water based gel achieves deep penetration. Professional directions Start applying the product on infected areas only. Apply to the breakouts and congestion after cleansing and before ACU-MIST and ACU-MOIST. Gradually increase the thickness of application as needed. Niacinamide – Increases oxygenation within the capillaries and acts as a toxic flush. Krameric Trianda Root Extract – Naturally rich in Lycopene and controls the stress hormonal flux associated with acne conditions. Is naturally rich Lycopene, a superior antioxidant. Helps to calm inflammatory conditions. Zinc Oxide & Magensium Ascorbyl Phosphate – Long known as an "acne supplement", when combined with vitamin C, Zinc becomes a powerful anti-acne compound. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 39 ACU-MOIST Function ACU-MOIST is a key Home Prescriptive for acne skins that require hydration whilst using the DMK Klear Collection range. ACU-MOIST aims to rebalance and regulate acne-prone skin. ACU-MOIST revives hydration, inflammation and healing, while aiding in rebalancing oily congested skin. It also helps to alleviate the flaking and drying effects caused by drying acne treatments. Diagnostic Specifically formulated for clients on the Klear Collection range, ACU-MOIST can be prescribed for inflamed acne, deeply congested and excessively oily skin. Professional directions Apply a thin layer of ACU-MOIST after cleansing the skin and spray ACU-MIST. Work into the skin together. Key Ingredients Safflower – Contains essential fatty acids and acts as an antioxidant. Allantoin – Enhances water retention. Panthenol – Source of vitamin B5, contains antimicrobial properties that are crucial to controlling the growth and spread of bacteria. Rebalances oil production – B5 increases Coenzyme A, involved in the metabolism and breaking down of sebum. Restores barriers and promotes healing. Zinc Oxide – Sunscreen. Zinc Oxide has a broader UV absorption profile than titanium dioxide, Zinc Oxide absorbs UV and does so very effectively. 40 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In ACU-THERM Key ingredients A petrolatum-free blemish gel designed to “heat up” painful pustules, papules and pimples to hydrolyze the hardened sebum wax and bacteria trapped in pores. Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis Extract (Dong Quoi) – A traditional Chinese medicine used to treat a variety of skin conditions including boils and puss-filled acne. Diagnostic This topical spot gel is designed to heat up (through a pseudo heat) and soften sebum plugs allowing the pores to rid themselves of backed up fluid and bacteria trapped within. Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory ingredients are incorporated to reduce contamination and swelling. Dong Quoi – This herb contains compounds called coumarins that stimulate blood circulation to the skin and accelerate tissue repair, other compounds of the herb block the creation of prostaglandins, substances that cause inflammation and pain associated with acne. Function Ingredients The ultimate “deep pore cleansing” tool. Pseudo heat ingredients (herbal rubefacients): Clove. Cassia. Capsicum. All three ingredients are known for their purging effects in skin and natural antibacterial properties. ACU-THERM is the ultimate deep pore cleansing tool which softens blind pimples and congested acne which can often be hard to extract. Using a cotton bud, place a small amount on to each blemish. As the ingredients get to work, a hot sensation is felt. This is the pseudo heat. Professional directions Apply directly to pimples, pustules and blackheads. Leave on for 1 or 2 minutes, and then wipe away excess. Discontinue use after the pimple starts to heal. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 41 Solar Damage Gel Key Ingredients Solar Damage Gel restores skin that has been punished by age, harmful ultra violet rays, climatic conditions and any external aggravation. Solar Damage Gel is the antidote for cellular fatigue. Restores the interstitial fluid of the epidermis bringing hydration and vitality back, creating a firmer plumper more replenished skin. Aqua (Water). Medicago Sativa Extract (Alfalfa). Cimicifuga Racemosa Extract (Black Cohosh). Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract (Licorice Root Extract). Verbascum Thapsus Extract (Mullein). Trigonella Foenum Graecum Seed Extract (Fenugreek). Diagnostic Solar Damage Gel is suitable for: Humulus Lupulus Extract (Hops). Acne and congestion. Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract. Premature ageing, sun damaged and environmental damaged skins. Weakened skin, dehydrated with poor bounce and turgidity. After IPL, Laser or any heat and erythema (redness) inducing treatments. Dry, stressed, strained and taut skin. Sensitive, inflamed, aggravated skin conditions. Scarring and stretch marks. Burns or any skin trauma. Can be applied to any area of the face, neck, eye area, hands or body. 42 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Function Home Use Solar Damage Gel has specific barrier protection effects, helping to protect and rejuvenate the skin. Designed to reduce inflammation and posttreatment irritation and redness. After cleansing and applying DMK serums oils and crèmes, apply a thin layer and gently massage to help absorption. Can be used morning and evening. Pre and Post Treatment Professional directions When using Solar Damage Gel pre-operatively or post-operatively the key benefits will be: As a professional treatment formulation it can be used in two different ways: Cellular revision. As a finishing moisture repair system, applied at the end of your treatment regime. A protective chain prior to treatment. A build up of antioxidants. Encourage healing. Reduction in inflammation and post-treatment irritation and redness. www.dannemking.com Used as a masque after Needling, Laser or IPL or any treatments or peels that leave the skin irritated, hot or inflamed. Apply a slightly thicker layer and leave it to sink in for 5-7 minutes. Leave on the skin. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 43 Actrol Powder Function Actrol Powder is specifically formulated to reduce excess sebaceous oils and fluids, encourage healing and protect the skin. The powder is suitable for sensitive, oily and acne prone skins. Actrol Powder increases skin healing and puts a protective seal over the skin. Absorbs oil better than talc by removing the excessive shine promoted by oil production, without drying out the skin. By eliminating the moist, damp environment in which bacteria thrives, the incidence of blemishes is reduced. Key ingredients Professional directions Golden Seal, or Orangeroot – A herb with healing properties. With a dry DMK fan brush lightly dust over the skin after all other Home Prescriptives. Thymus Vulgaris – An antioxidant, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory. Actrol Powder can be applied under DMKC Foundation and over the top. Diagnostic Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) – Acts as a free radical scavenger which stimulates collagen and suppresses melanogenesis via the fibroblast cells. A potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient that acts to calm, heal and regenerate the skin. Chloroxylenol – Contains anti-bacterial and anti-fungal agents and is used as to kill gram positive and gram negative bacteria. 44 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB Product combinations DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB is a light non-greasy sun crème that provides protection without clogging pores. DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB can be combined with all other DMK Home Prescriptive products. Diagnostic Professional directions DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB can be used on all skin conditions, but especially acne since it does not clog the pores or leave a greasy layer on top of the skin. Proper protection is the first line of defence in maintaining a youthful appearance. Apply to skin every day, and re-apply as needed after swimming and exercise or extended sun exposure. Use on the tops of hands and neck to avoid premature ageing. Key Ingredients Titanium Dioxide – A light absorber which protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Allantoin – Soothes and calms the skin. Function DMK’s signature sun crème protects skin from UVA and UBA rays that contribute to premature ageing and pigmentation. It can be worn everyday and under make-up without causing break outs. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 45 DMK SOLEIL DEFENCE 50+ UVA & UVB Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid – UVB. DMK SOLEIL DEFENCE 50+ UVA & UVB is a non-greasy sunscreen that provides high protection without clogging pores. Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate – Absorbs UVA. Transepidermal absorption. Function Diagnostic DMK SOLEIL DEFENCE 50+ UVA & UVB can be used on all skin conditions, especially acne, as it does not clog the pores or leave a greasy layer on top of the skin. Proper protection is the first line of defence, in maintaining a youthful appearance. UVB is the major cause of sunburn and increased skin cancer risk, while UVA contributes to ageing of the skin, as well as skin cancer risk. Offering protection from both UVA and UVB rays, this broad spectrum sunscreen may assist in preventing and reducing the risk of some skin cancers, as well as aiding in the prevention of sunspots, solar keratosis and premature skin ageing. Ingredients DMK’s premium sunscreen protects skin from UVA and UBA rays that contribute to premature ageing and pigmentation. It can be worn everyday and under make-up without causing breakouts. Product combinations DMK SOLEIL DEFENCE 50+ UVA & UVB can be combined with all other DMK Home Prescriptive products. Professional directions Apply to skin every day, and re-apply as needed after swimming and exercise or extended sun exposure. Use on the face, neck, body and top of hands to avoid premature ageing. Formulation – Protection against UVA & UVB effects. UV Absorbing Compounds: Bemotrizinol – Provides a range of UV spectrums covered. UVA1 and UVA2 and UVB. Photo stable and stabilizes the other less photo stable ingredients, it is very compatible with other ingredients. No estrogenic effects, non-toxic. Octyl Methoxycinnamate – An organic ester, absorbs UVB. Octyl Triazone – Insoluable in water, long lasting. Absorbs UVB. 46 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Foamy Lift Selling tips Combined with Exoderma Peel, Foamy Lift masque is an effective home maintenance masque. Foamy Lift masque is a potent conditioning masque that can be used to maintain results between professional Enzyme Treatments. Diagnostic It is recommended for any skin condition or color. Professional directions Citric Acid – Helps to improve dermal hydration. Mix 2 teaspoons of Foamy Lift with 2 teaspoons of Exoderma Peel using the DMK fan brush and apply in upwards strokes. Aspartic Acid – A roborant that helps to strengthen the tissue and capillaries. Leave on for 30-40 minutes whilst keeping head elevated to alleviate pressure. Antioxidants – Fight and combat free radical damage. Remove with your DMK cleanser. Ingredients Finish with chosen serums, oils and nourishing crèmes. Function Spray with Herb & Mineral Mist. By mixing with Exoderma Peel, Foamy Lift masque activates micro circulation to keep the skin functioning between treatments. It tightens and tones the skin by removing dead skin cells and impurities. It also brightens the skin and increases dermal hydration. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 47 Micro Peel Function Micro Peel offers a quick and non-irritating method of removing dead cells and debris to improve the appearance of dull, coarse or wrinkled skin. It is an ideal quick exfoliation for acne and congested skin. Micro Peel is a gentle exfoliant to eliminate dead cell material and to restore a fresh, soft, glowing appearance. Professional directions Apply a thin layer to cleansed skin. Diagnostic Recommended for most skins. Leave for five to ten minutes and rinse off with warm towels. Ingredients Finish with the appropriate DMK serums, oils, mists and nourishing crèmes. Glycolic Acid – Removes dead skin cells on the surface. Lactic Acid – Stimulates cell renewal while refreshing and re-texturing skin. OPTIONAL: Follow Micro Peel with Acu Masque or Hydrating Masque. Citric Acid – Balances the pH and helps to increase dermal hydration. 48 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Acu Masque Function Ideal for oily skins prone to blemishes, Acu Masque is a diverse and versatile masque that aims to fight acne-causing bacteria, purify the skin, soothe and reduce redness, inflammation, and unplug blocked ducts. Acu Masque is designed to reduced stubborn blackheads and blemishes by absorbing oils and dissolving dead skin cells. It also purifies ducts which are plugged by dead cells and sebum, and prevents pimple eruptions, while acting as an astringent on enlarged pores. Soothes red irritated skin. Diagnostic It is strongly recommended for acne, congestion, blackheads, open pores and oily or dull skin as well as red, reactive, inflamed skins. Professional directions Cleanse and apply Acu Masque. Leave for twenty minutes and rinse off with warm water. Ingredients Sulphur – Topical Sulphur is harmful to various strains of bacteria (which are the primary cause of acne). It is called natures “beauty mineral”, because it keeps hair glossy and smooth and keeps the complexion clear and youthful. Sulphur plays a part in tissue respiration (the process whereby oxygen and other substances are used to build cells and release energy). Apply DMK serums, oils and crèmes. Kaolin – Kaolin calms and soothes skin with fine particles that absorb excess oils. Bentonite – It's highest power lies in its ability to absorb toxins, acting like a magnetic sponge pulling out impurities, congestion and toxins without any harsh drying or stripping. According to Verba Prima (a company based in Ashland Oregon) Bentonite clay minerals are negatively charged while toxins are positive. These are attracted like a magnet drawing metal shavings. Zinc Oxide – Has a mild astringent action. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 49 Dermatox Function Dermatox is a 3-minute skin cleanser for unhealthy skin. Dermatox aims to eliminate impurities working to clear and brighten the skin. Dermatox is ionized to turn the skin’s toxins into a gas which evaporates from the skin. It is designed to act like a liquid magnet for impurities in the skin, drawing them to the surface of the skin where they evaporate. This sometimes causes unpleasant odours. Diagnostic Designed for those suffering from acne and congested skin, as well as people with a high environmental exposure to toxins, Dermatox is especially recommended for city-based people, smokers, drinkers and clients on heavy medications. Professional directions For home use apply once to twice a week. Apply to skin with a cotton ball and wait 3-5 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with cool water. Ingredients Sea Salt – The drawing agent for toxins to rise to the surface of skin. A strong odour indicates a high level of impurities being drawn from your skin. Kelp – A detoxifying agent. 50 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Part 6 DMK Acne Treatments This manual is intended to give skin technicians the theory around treatment options and how they will help the acne condition. DMK is a very versatile system, there are many options, it is important the DMK therapist is confident and has a solid knowledge of each DMK professional formulation. DMK recommend acne clients undergo a program integrating various treatments starting with a 12 treatment program. Acne Quick Peel & Enzyme Treatment Design a program for acne Observed conditions Programs consist of a series of treatments starting with a 12 treatment program utilising the different treatment options overleaf. Treat weekly initially, then fortnightly, and then monthly. Severe inflammation with multiple papules, pustules, nodules and cysts. Function Detoxifies the skin and prepares it for improved functionality. Quick Peel removes the symptoms of inflammation while Enzyme Masque #1 flushes away toxins and increases oxygenation to the skin. Protocol Cleansing Protocol Dermatox Protocol Quick Peel Protocol Ice, then apply Melanotech Protocol and Pore Reduction Drops Protocol Enzyme Masque #1 Protocol OPTIONAL: Metier® Low Level Laser Protocol Transepidermal Finishing Protocol www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 51 Acne Prozyme & Enzyme Treatment Protocol Observed conditions Cleansing Protocol. Blackheads and superficial congestion. Prozyme Protocol. Sebum Soak Protocol. Function Prozyme ingests dead cell material and debris from the skin’s surface while Sebum Soak loosens impacted sebum making extractions easier. Dermatox will release any toxic build-up in the skin and Enzyme Masque #1 improves skin functioning. The combination acts to shift blackheads and resolve light congestion. Extract and ice. Dermatox Protocol, Pore Reduction Drops Protocol, Melanotech Protocol. Enzyme Masque #1 Protocol using Aqua D'Herb. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol. Warning Do NOT massage after the treatment. 52 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Acne Hydradermaze Treatment Protocol Hydradermaze is an advanced treatment program designed to accelerate results when treating very congested skin. It combines the forces of Retosin, Prozyme, Pro Alpha #1 and Enzyme Masque #1. Cleansing Protocol using Deep Pore Pure Observed conditions Enzyme Masque # 1 Protocol using Aqua D'Herb. Ductal plugging caused by excess keratinisation, non-inflamed, congested acne with open or closed comedones, microcomedones, nodules and open pores. Function Prozyme digests the dead cell material blocking the sebaceous glands and hair shafts while Pro Alpha #1 aids the penetration of AHA’s into the epidermis. When combined, Prozyme and Pro Alpha #1 draw water and congestion up to the skin’s surface removing blockages. Dermatox Protocol. Prozyme Protocol for 10 minutes. Pro Alpha #1 Protocol, Melanotech Protocol, Pore Reduction Drops Protocol. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol using Melanotech, Pore Reduction Drops, then Beta Gel and Direct Delivery Vitamin C. Apply Herbal Pigment Oil sprayed with Herb & Mineral Mist. Followed by Contraderm sprayed with Herb & Mineral Mist. Lock in with Hydrophilic Crème. Finish with DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB. Enzyme Masque #1 restores optimal skin functionality by bringing a fresh supply of rich nutrients and increased oxygenation to the cells helping tissue repair and regenerate, increasing the cell's metabolic rate, and circulation. Warning Skin may be red or sting for 1 to 2 days after treatment. Crusty, dry patches are common. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 53 AlphaZyme Acne Evacuderm Treatment Program Observed conditions Observed conditions Dislodge acne impaction and clear the pores. Evacuderm Treatment Protocol is for a more deep-seated congestion, where the compaction is trapped deep down in the sebaceous glands and hair shafts. This needs to be brought to the surface in order for us to effectively clean it out. Protocol Cleanse with Deep Pore Pure. Apply Pro Alpha #1 to the skin and occlude with cling film and hot towels for 5 to 10 mins. Remove the occlusion and blot with a tissue to remove from the surface. Heat the skin, mix Prozyme with Aqua D'Herb and apply to the skin. Occlude and leave on for 10 mins. Remove Prozyme well with warm moist towel and ice. Heat the skin, mix Sebum Soak with Aqua D'Herb, and apply to the congested areas. Heat and leave on for 5 mins. Perform extractions then remove the Sebum Soak and ice. Function Pro Alpha #1 and #2 are used to quickly release and bring to the surface trapped sebum and dead cell material, Prozyme removes the dead cells and waste material, while Enzyme Masque #1 restores optimal skin functioning by improving lymphatic drainage and circulation bringing fresh nutrients and oxygen to the skin. The combined formulations bring congestion to the surface, flush out the debris and restore optimal skin functionality. Dermatox. Warning Ice and apply Pore Reduction Drops, Melanotech, LLL, Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Aqua D'Herb and leave on for 45 mins. Do NOT perform on a full face or as the client’s first treatment. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol using Pore Reduction Drops, Melanotech, Beta Gel, Direct Delivery Vitamin C, ACU-KLEAR directly onto the pimples, Contraderm with Herb & Mineral Mist, Solar Damage Gel, DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB, dust over with Actrol Powder. Finish with a light covering of DMKC Foundation mixed with Crème Glacé. 54 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Treatment 1 - Day 1 Red Vein Protocol – R.V.T Cleansing Protocol. Observed conditions Dermatox Protocol. Red acne scarring and deeply congested areas. Select a strength for Pro Alpha #1 and Pro Alpha #2 and mix the solutions in a DMK mixing bowl. Strength 1: 50% Pro Alpha #1, 50% Pro Alpha #2. Strength 2: 25% Pro Alpha #1, 75% Pro Alpha #2. Apply 2 layers to the relevant areas. Never perform more than 2 layers, otherwise the client should be prescribed the Pro Alpha Six-layer Peel. Protocol Cleanse with Deep Pore Pure. Apply Red Vein Crème to the area being treated, and then allow it to sit on the skin for 5 minutes before blotting the area with a tissue and leaving the remaining Red Vein Crème on the skin. Mix Enzyme Masque #1 with Aqua D'Herb and apply over the top and leave on for 45 minutes. After treatment, advise the client to leave the solution on their skin for 12 hours. Remove with warm (not hot) water and gently pat dry. The client will go home with the solution on, and then 12 hours later gently cleanse the skin, and apply their DMK day regime. Remove the Enzyme Masque and finish with Pore Reduction Drops, Melanotech, Beta Gel, Direct Delivery Vitamin C, Seba-E and spray with Herb & Mineral Mist before applying Biogen C, Solar Damage Gel, DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB. Treatment 2 - Day 3 or 4 Prozyme Protocol for 10 minutes. Perform extractions and Low Level Laser Protocol. Ice, then apply Melanotech Protocol. Pore Reduction Drops Protocol. Enzyme Masque #1 Protocol using Aqua D'Herb. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol using Melanotech, Direct Delivery Vitamin C and Beta Gel sprayed with Herb & Mineral Mist. Apply Contraderm sprayed with Herb & Mineral Mist. Lock in with Hydrophilic Crème. Finish with DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 55 Eliminaire ACUTROL Basic Observed conditions Observed conditions An acne treatment protocol to flush and eradicate deep congestion and redness. For acne and Rosacea. Increases healing, fights bacteria, and encourages a faster recovery. Protocol Protocol Cleanse. OPTIONAL - Exfoliation can be performed using: Desquamate, Quick Peel, Pro Alpha #1 occlusion, Prozyme or microdermabrasion. Dermatox. Desquamate for 10 mins. Red Vein Crème and spray with Herb & Mineral Mist, work into the impacted areas leave for 3 mins then blot and apply Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Aqua D'Herb over the top. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol using Pore Reduction Drops, Melanotech, Beta Gel, Direct Delivery Vitamin C, ACU-KLEAR on the breakouts, Seba-E, Herb & Mineral Mist, acu crème, Solar Damage Gel, DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB and dust over with Actrol Powder. Apply DMKC Foundation. Cleanse with either Deep Pore Pure or Milky Clean & Pure. Dermatox. Apply Pore Reduction Drops, Melanotech, Low Level Laser. Dust the skin over with Actrol Powder and mix Enzyme Masque #1 with Aqua D'Herb. Apply over the top of the Actrol Powder. Leave on for 45 mins. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol using Pore Reduction Drops, Melanotech, Beta Gel, FIBROMAX C™, Direct Delivery Vitamin C, ACU-KLEAR on eruptions and congestion, Seba-E sprayed with Herb & Mineral Mist, Contraderm sprayed with Herb & Mineral Mist. Dust over with Actrol Powder. Apply DMKC Foundation. 56 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In ACUTROL Advanced Protocol ACUTROL Advanced utilizes Alkaline Wash solution. Cleanse with either Deep Pore Pure or Milky Clean & Pure. Alkaline, neutralize. Observed conditions Ice, Pore Reduction Drops, Melanotech, Low Level Laser, dust over with Actrol Powder. For inflamed cystic acne and Rosacea. Increases healing, fights bacteria, and encourages a faster recovery. Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Aqua D'Herb apply over the top, leave on for 45 mins. Functionality Swells, softens and dissolves to remove excess cell build-up and release inflammation, impaction and kill the acne causing bacteria. Alkaline Wash plus Enzyme will dislodge the underling manifestation and eliminate the inflammation and infection. Finishing Protocol: Pore Reduction Drops, Melanotech, Beta Gel, Direct Delivery Vitamin C, ACU-KLEAR on eruptions and congestion, Seba-E sprayed with Herb & Mineral Mist, Contraderm sprayed with Herb & Mineral Mist. Dust over with Actrol Powder. Apply DMKC Foundation. NOTE: pH Revision treatments are best performed every 14 days. For a rapid response, alternate treatments. Always reassess the skin and treat according to the condition that presents itself. You may do an Alkaline Wash and Enzyme Treatment, then 2 weeks later perform a Prozyme and Enzyme Treatment or Hydradermaze, and keep alternating. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 57 Warnings for the use of pH Revision FRP (Face Remodelling Procedure) Treatment Program Clients may experience the following temporary side-effects after pH Revision for acne: What is RP? “Remodel: to reconstruct, return to its original healthy state.” Remodel the abnormal processes that have developed as a result of the acne. Weeping or rubbery skin. Redness. Reconstruct the architecture of the skin, and return skin to its original or properly functioning condition. Hot, stinging, red or raw skin. Crusty and dry patches. A rush of oil over night or the next day (this will normalize quickly). A small amount of scabbing similar to gravel rash (this is more likely to occur after a first treatment and cannot harm the skin if it is left to come off naturally). Dry and tight skin after 2 to 3 days. RP removes build-up and enhances the skin’s own ability to remove excess keratin plugs within the ducts. Re-establishes a healthy environment for normal cell proliferation. FRP should be used instead of Pro Alpha Sixlayer Peel for clients who have congested or oily skin or are prone to breakouts. Observed conditions A thick build-up of dead skin cells and pigmented, oily or congested skin on the face, excellent for acne scarring. Once the inflammation has been reduced RP can help to blow out the deep congestion and reduce the scarring and pigmented marks. By adding the RP into your acne treatment program the results will be much faster. Function The FRP (Face Remodelling Procedure) is an alternative treatment to Pro Alpha Six-layer Peel for clients who have congested or oily skin or are prone to breakouts. 58 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In RP - Contraindications Home Prescriptives Do not use on Indian skin. Cleanse with Deep Pore Pure or ACU-KLENZ. Caution is required on darker skins. Clients that are allergic to Retosin or Pro Alpha #1 or #2 will need a patch test. Do not use on eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis or any inflamed skin. Do not use on anyone who is averse to peeling. Not suitable for clients on medications, or those who have autoimmune disorders. Cold sore sufferers will be prone to getting an eruption – consult doctor for the cold sore prevention medication prior to RP. Apply Direct Delivery Vitamin C, Beta Gel, Herbal Pigment Oil sprayed with Herb & Mineral Mist. Apply Contraderm sprayed with Herb & Mineral Mist. Apply Solar Damage Gel and finish with DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB. Take 4 DMK Efa Plus supplements. Treatment 1 - Day 1 Cleansing Protocol. Pre-Treatment Protocol RP for Face Protocol. DMK skin technicians must perform a minimum 2 to 4 Body Enzyme Therapy Treatments on the area to be remodelled. Mix 1 teaspoon of Pro Alpha #1, 2 teaspoons of Pro Alpha #2, and 1 teaspoon Retosin in a DMK bowl with a cotton tip. Apply gently to the area being treated until the area is completely covered, and won’t absorb more solution. Inform the client that skin may sting and become heated. Fan the client. Client MUST perform the following Home Prescriptives regime for 10 nights prior to the first RP Treatment: ¡Cleanse with Deep Pore Pure or Milky Clean & Pure. ¡Alternate Retosin and Super Bright for 10 nights. Client must also follow the FRP Home Prescriptive regime. Client will leave RP solution on for 8 hours or overnight. Advise client to follow the FRP Home Prescriptives regime. Tell them to be extremely gentle when cleansing and not to rub their skin with a towel as this may break or tear the skin. NOTE: Remind clients that they should not use Retosin and Super Bright for the rest of the program. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 59 Day 3 Treatment 4 - Day 10 Advise client to follow the FRP Home Prescriptives regime (morning and night). OPTIONAL: Metier® Low Level Laser Protocol. Enzyme Masque #1 Lift Off Protocol. Apply the Dermafield transducers to the client set to Program 6. Day 4 Advise client to follow the FRP Home Prescriptives regime (morning and night). Transepidermal Finishing Protocol as per Treatment 2. Treatment 3 - Day 5 OPTIONAL: Metier® Low Level Laser Protocol. Enzyme Masque #1 Lift Off Protocol. Apply the Dermafield transducers to the client set to Program 6. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol as per Treatment 2. 60 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In RP for Body Protocol Remodelling Procedure post-treatment for breakouts Cleansing Protocol. Observed conditions RP for Face Protocol. Mix 1 teaspoon of Pro Alpha #1, 2 teaspoons of Pro Alpha #2, and 1 teaspoon Retosin in a DMK bowl with a cotton tip. Apply gently to the area being treated until the area is completely covered, and won’t absorb more solution. Inform the client that skin may sting and become heated. Fan the client. Client will leave RP solution on for 8 hours or overnight. Function This treatment uses Alkaline Wash to reduce the severity of post peel breakouts and prevent scarring from taking place. Warning Advise client to follow the FRP Home Prescriptives regime. Tell them to be extremely gentle when cleansing and not to rub their skin with a towel as this may break or tear the skin. NOTE: Remind clients that they should not use Retosin and Super Bright for the rest of the program. Whiteheads or cystic pimples during the Remodelling Procedure Treatment Program. Alkaline Wash is ONLY to be used by trained DMK skin technicians who have completed the pH Revision training course. Do NOT occlude as heat should NEVER be applied after Alkaline Wash. Do not use on Asian or Indian skins. Clients may experience redness, irritation, dryness and some scabbing after treatment. Advise cold sore sufferers that they may experience eruptions after treatment and may want to consult their doctor for preventative medication prior to having the peel. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 61 Part 7 Professional Acne Treatment Programs Acne is a chronic condition. All skin conditions represent physical manifestations of abnormal processes. Understanding the underlying processes will help you to develop the right treatment for your client. Once you grasp the principles, you can apply them to individual cases. It is important to understand that even when the skin looks clear, acne impactions and tension exist in the follicles. If you could see inside these weakened follicles, you would see constant breaking, leaking and healing activity. When acne skin is clear, a delicate balance has been struck with the condition. When stress weakens the body, healing is temporarily interrupted and acne will re-occur. As acne is a chronic condition, it must be treated continually until the client has reached the age when it no longer occurs. Treatment overview DMK treatments are tailored to specific skin conditions. The DMK acne range includes a variety of products designed to target different grades of acne. Inflamed acne Non-inflamed acne Blackheads ductal plugging Retosin √ √ √ DMK Efa Plus √ √ √ Treatment/product option Klear Collection Acne Quick Peel & Enzyme Treatment Acne Prozyme & Enzyme Treatment √ Acne Hydradermaze Treatment √ Acne pH Revision & Enzyme Treatment √ Acne RP Treatment Program √ √ Acne Evacuderm Treatment Program √ √ √ √ Alphazyme Treatment √ √ Eliminare Treatment √ √ ACUTROL Treatment 62 √ www.dannemking.com √ DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Example – 12 week program for inflamed acne Treatment 2 – Week 2 This is an example of a sequence of treatments which can be modified and adjusted according to the presenting condition. Treatment 1 – Week 1 Cleanse, Desquamate, Sebum Soak, extract, ice, LLL (low level laser) or HF (High frequency), Dermatox, ice, Melanotech, Pore Reduction Drops, Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Aqua D'Herb. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol using Melanotech, Pore Reduction Drops, FIBROMAX C™, Beta Gel, Direct Delivery Vitamin C, ACU-KLEAR on breakouts, Herb & Mineral Mist, Contraderm, DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB, dust over with Actrol Powder and finish with DMKC Foundation mixed with Crème Glacé. Cleanse, Quick Peel, Sebum Soak, extract, ice, LLL or HF, Dermatox, ice, Melanotech, Pore Reduction Drops, Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Aqua D'Herb. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol. Treatment 3 – Week 3 ACUTROL Advanced. Get the client to start Foamy Lift and Exoderma Peel at home 3 days after the ACUTROL treatment then Micro Peel and Acu Masque 3 days after that and keep doing this routine to assist the results with the home treatments. Treatment 4 – Week 5 Treatments are now performed every 2 weeks. Hydradermaze. Treatment 5 – Week 7 ACUTROL Advanced. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 63 Treatment 6 – Week 9 Hydradermaze. Use ACU-THERM and Retosin one night and then Red Vein Crème on the worst areas the other night. Treatment 7 – Week 11 Example – 12 week program for non-inflamed acne This is an example of a sequence of treatments which can be modified and adjusted according to the presenting condition. Treatment 1 – Week 1 ACUTROL Advanced. Treatment 8 – Week 13 Cleanse, Dermatox, Quick Peel, Sebum Soak, extractions, ice, LLL or HF, Melanotech, Pore Reduction Drops, Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Aqua D'Herb. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol. Treatment 9 If the inflammation has subsided you can now perform RP or you can continue to perform treatments every two weeks alternating treatment options. Also now add in AlphaZyme and Eliminare. Even after the RP there will need to be some fine tuning to clear the last areas. Cleanse, Desquamate, Sebum Soak, extract, ice, LLL (low level laser) or HF (High frequency), Dermatox, ice, Melanotech, Pore Reduction Drops, Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Aqua D'Herb. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol using Melanotech, Pore Reduction Drops, FIBROMAX C™, Beta Gel, Direct Delivery Vitamin C, ACU-KLEAR on breakouts, Herb & Mineral Mist, Contraderm, DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB, dust over with Actrol Powder and finish with DMKC mixed with Crème Glacé. Treatment 2 – Week 2 Prozyme 10 mins, Sebum Soak, extract, Dermatox, ice, LLL or HF, Melanotech, Pore Reduction Drops, Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Exoderma Peel. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol. Treatment 3 – Week 3 Hydradermaze. Only perform the Pro Alpha Occlusion on the congested areas. 64 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Treatment 4 – Week 4 Treatment 10 – Week 14 Quick Peel, Sebum Soak, extract, ice, LLL or HF, Dermatox, ice, Melanotech, Pore Reduction Drops, Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Aqua D'Herb. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol. If the inflammation has gone you can now perform an RP, or you can continue to perform treatments every 2 weeks alternating treatment options. Also now add in AlphaZyme, Eliminare. Even after the RP there will need to be some fine tuning to clear the last areas. Treatment 5 – Week 5 Treatment 11 – Week 16 Hydradermaze. Rhinovac only on the worst areas. Treatment 6 – Week 7 Treatments are now performed every 2 weeks. ACUTROL Advanced. Treatment 12 – Week 18 ACUTROL Advanced. Treatment 7 – Week 9 Treatment 13 – Week 19 Eliminare. Use ACU-THERM and Retosin one night, then Red Vein Crème on the worst areas on the other night. Eliminare. Now perform monthly treatments. Treatment 8 – Week 10 AlphaZyme. Treatment 9 – Week 12 Cleanse, Dermatox, Quick Peel, Sebum Soak, extractions, ice, LLL or HF, Melanotech, Pore Reduction Drops, Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Aqua D'Herb. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 65 Acne scar revision A DMK skin technician should be able to diagnose the type of scar and advise the client of medical and non-medical treatment options. Diagnosis Scars are a result of the skin’s natural defense system. If the skin is compromised by laceration, burning or picking, it’s defence system will immediately begin forming new cells. Scars occur when new cells develop too fast or too slow. Cell proliferation is regulated by Langerhans cells, which aid in the immunity of the skin, and the production of the enzyme collagenase. If one of these elements is missing or damaged, then abnormal cell proliferation is likely. The speed of proliferation of new cells is driven by age, health, genetic and racial factors, as well as injury, drugs or the presence of infection. Blood supply to the area. Thickness and colour of skin (including genetic aspects). www.dannemking.com Treatment options DMK utilizes a formulation that dissolves and softens the area to stimulate the tissue to reform. Following removal, the area is rebuilt and repaired in a smoother, firmer fashion. Scar removal is a long-term project. Patience and commitment are necessary. Microdermabrasion The direction of the scar on the skin (across or with the grain of the skin). 66 The rebuilding process requires active ingredients with a small enough molecular structure to penetrate deep within the skin. Topical crèmes that work on the skin’s surface will not remove or reduce scars. Scars on ageing skin tend to look deeper as the skin loosens with age, particularly in the case of “ice pick” acne scars. By tightening the skin with Enzyme treatments, skin receives a lift which smoothes out the appearance of scars. Size and depth of the wound. Scar tissue is still skin tissue. It only becomes scar tissue after the injury causes the desmosomes (cell structure specialized for cell-to-cell adhesion) to release new cells to surface much faster than the client’s natural There are many crèmes on the market that claim to eliminate scars, but a truly effective treatment needs to re-damage and remove the scarred tissue, which will then repair and rebuild stronger, firmer tissue beneath. Enzyme skin tightening treatments The development of a scar depends on how the body heals and the extent of the original injury. The variables that affect the severity of scarring include: Functionality cell proliferation. It is possible for the scar to be softened, partially removed and de-pigmented. Over time, continuous microdermabrasion treatments will plane down hypertrophic scar tissue. However, microdermabradors have a limited impact. The skin tissue under a scar needs to be rebuilt many times. The correct chemistry offered by Home Prescriptives can achieve a result for this type of scarring. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Pro Alpha Six-layer Peel RP (Remodelling Procedures) Pro Alpha Six-layer Peel can help to reduce the size of large areas of scarring which can then be revised through alternating pH Revision, Prozyme and Enzyme Therapy Treatments. If clients cannot undergo a Pro Alpha Six-layer Peel, then alternate treatments using ACUTROL Advanced and Hydradermaze every 14 days. RP revises the skin by looking at the underlying cause of premature ageing. RP aims to revise the processes that have developed as a result of the sun or environmental damage. RP is a treatment to consider for revising sun-damage, premature ageing, and loose sagging and wrinkled skin. RP is focused on improving confidence and happiness. pH Revision for scarring Pro Peel pH Revision can be used to swell, soften and dissolve scarred tissue, thus stimulating tissue to reform. After removal, Enzyme Therapy is performed to rebuild a stronger, firmer tissue to replace the old scar tissue. Pro Peel is a treatment recommended to revitalise thickened, uneven, sun-damaged, sluggish or congested skin with this 6-8 week progressive resurfacing and rebuilding procedure. This is the ideal alternative for those wanting similar results to the Pro Alpha Six-layer Peel, but don’t have the downtime. Alkalize the tissues Alkalizing the skin correctly, softens the tissue and creates a mild irritation that forms a thin scab. When the scab falls off, the skin appears flatter. Hydradermaze Hydradermaze is an advanced treatment program designed to help clear acne and congestion. Performed fortnightly for 12 weeks, Hydradermaze addresses the factors involved in the pathophysiology of acne. By combining the forces of Retosin, Prozyme, Pro Alpha #1 and Enzyme Masque #1, Hydradermaze aims to achieve fast, effective results in very congested skin. AlphaZyme Designed to dislodge acne impactions and clear the pores, AlphaZyme utilizes Prozyme as well as heat to soften dead skin cells and clear pores. Finished with extractions, Dermatox, and Enzyme Masque #1, AlphaZyme is the ultimate skin-clearing, detoxifying facial treatment. www.dannemking.com Before After DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 67 Scar Revision Treatment Protocols Example 1 Treatment 1 – Week 1 Cleanse, Dermatox, Desquamate, Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Aqua D'Herb. Transepidermal Finishing Protocol using Melanotech, FIBROMAX C™, Beta Gel, Direct Delivery Vitamin C, Herbal Pigment Oil, Herb & Mineral Mist, Contraderm, DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB and dust over with Actrol Powder. DMKC Foundation can be applied over the top to conceal the scar. Before Treatment 2 – Week 2 Cleanse, Dermatox, Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Desquamate. Cleanse, Alkaline Wash pH Revision, Melanoplex Drops, Pore Reduction Drops, Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Exoderma Peel. Same Transepidermal Finishing Protocol as above. Treatment 3 – Week 3 Cleanse, apply Enzyme Masque #1 mixed with Exoderma Peel. Same Transepidermal Finishing Protocol as above. 68 After Example 2 Treatment 1 – Week 1 Transepidermal Finishing Protocol using Melanotech, FIBROMAX C™, Beta Gel, Direct Delivery Vitamin C, Herbal Pigment Oil, Herb & Mineral Mist, Contraderm, and DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB. DMKC Foundation can be applied over the top to conceal the scar. After the first treatment prep the skin for a Pro Alpha Six-layer Peel. After this treatment prep for RP (Remodelling Procedure) prep for 2 weeks alternating Retosin and Super Bright at night. Follow by full Home Prescriptive routine and DMK Efa Plus. Treatment 2 – Week 2 Treatment 4 – Week 5 RP. Enzyme Masque #2 and #3 skin strengthening treatment. Treatment 5 – Week 7 Treatment 4 – Week 5 After the RP, alternate Alkaline Wash and Prozyme Treatments focusing only on the last areas of scarring. The other option is to perform Liquid Laser on the last areas of scarring to revise them back even further. Enzyme Masque #2 and #3 skin strengthening treatment. www.dannemking.com Treatment 2: Pro Alpha Six-layer Peel. Treatment 3 – Week 4 Treatment 5 – Week 6 Prep the scarred areas for RP. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Treatment 6 – Week 8 Treatment approach Perform RP on the scarred areas only. Performing a program of regular treatments you can closely monitor and maintain the client’s progress. A realistic program contains 12 treatments that are between 7 and 14 days apart. The products Retosin, DMK Efa Plus, ACU-KLENZ, ACU-MIST, ACU-MOIST, ACU-THERM, ACU-KLEAR are the foundations of all acne treatment protocols. Treatment 7 – Week 10 Reassess the skin and perform any last revision alternating Alkaline Wash and Prozyme Treatments until the client is satisfied with the result. Before beginning any treatment, it is imperative that you diagnose skin conditions and thoroughly explain to the client what is needed to correct and restore the skin. Typically acne manifests over a long period of time. Clients that commit to a treatment program are more likely to see real functional changes in their skin. Home Prescriptives work to maintain results on a long-term basis. Before After NOTE: Always start the treatments by taking photos and signing the client consent form. Our goals during treatment are to: Cleanse and soften. Exfoliate and remove excessive keratinisation and prepare the skin for extraction. Extract to evacuate the follicle. Remove toxins and waste material by effective lymph drainage. Treat the skin enzymatically which restores optimal functionality. By alternating formulations, the skin responds more rapidly to treatment. Continually assess the skin and treat it according to what condition presents itself. Hydrate the skin to prevent it from becoming resistant to treatment and to minimize discomfort. Always protect skin with DMK SOLEIL PROTECT 15 UVA & UVB. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 69 The Effective Treatment of Acne Article by Danné Montague King Not unlike a lot of skin therapists, as a teenager I was a victim of acne vulgaris. In those days we treated acne with a chalky beige crème called Clearasil, but since the product never really dried out the skin, it would crack with the slightest facial movements. I avoided smiling at all costs, earning me the title of the “death mask kid!”. Funny stories aside, a teenage acne condition is far from amusing. There is a feeling of utter hopelessness, not to mention vulnerability to the repulsion of the opposite sex. After years of experimenting with dermatologists and backyard potions, I decided to take destiny into my own hands. I felt that using ivory soap twice a day along with astringents was the wrong approach. As a kitchen chemist, I knew all about acids and alkaloids. After all, the first soaps were made from ash and fats. It occurred to me that the alkaloids in commercial bars of soap, no matter how pure or botanical the oils used in manufacturing were, would convert the acid oil in my skin into pre-deposited fats as well. I realized that this was a likely cause of the plugs of soap or wax in my pores! After reading up on Native American lore and ancient methods of cleaning, I started to experiment with the powers of natural saponin obtained from tree barks. I stripped the bark, soaked them in water and pounded the inside cellulose into a pulp. This pulp was filtered into a bottle and combined with powdered ascorbic acid as a preservative, to form my first treatment product. 70 www.dannemking.com It kickstarted a period of wild experimentation. I whipped up odd masks made from oatmeal, tomatoes, okra and wheat germ. I made a crude crème with sodium alginate, olive oil and again, vitamin C which seemed to hold water in my skin without being greasy like conventional ‘moisture’ crèmes of the day. I altered my diet, refused fatty foods and replaced soft drinks with water. I was determined to be as beautiful and as popular as the blemish free boys in school. In my 17th year, my skin began to change and my confidence soared. I was invited to parties, noticed by girls and even ended up securing the romantic lead role in a play at the Queen Elizabeth Theatre in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. However, my adolescent experience stayed with me throughout my professional career. As a scientist, I always want to know why something works, not just that it does. The cause of acne There are as many varieties of acne as there are stars in the sky. It takes intensive training to recognize and diagnose each basic category or combination of categories. As a DMK skin technician, knowing this list by heart will do you little good unless you know the cause. DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Beyond genetic condition, the greatest contributing factor to acne is stress. Picking, squeezing, pressure, friction, lifestyle, birth control pills, cosmetics, climate and diet, all play their part, but stress is the big one. Imagine a gland at the top of the head called the Hypothalamus. Think of it as sort of a radio antenna that receives all signals of stress confronting the human body. The signal is relayed from this gland to the Pituitary (the master gland) located further down at the base of the skull. The Pituitary gland, receiving this message of stress, repeats the message to the adrenal glands, which then activate testosterone, also living in all female bodies. Testosterone stimulates the hair follicles to increase the hair population and pump more sebaceous oil onto the skin. This aggressive relay of messages is all due to stress. least one petrolatum formula which hydrolyzes infection when applied to a hardened cystictype pustule. It works on the principle of creating pseudo-heat within the pustule. Skin care is a matter of experience and understanding. Fads in ingredients and products may come and go, but one thing stays the same: acne skin needs to be decongested, the acid mantle restored to normal, and the flow of sebaceous oil regulated. This is the DMK principle of Remove-Restore-Protect-Maintain. DMK removal methods DMK’s concept draws heavily on the science of enzymes. It is the macrophage action of enzymes – the skin’s biological catalysts – which have placed enzyme treatments at the forefront of dead skin cell removal for acne skins. Ingredient fads AHA’s can be a dangerous ingredient in the wrong hands due to their stripping actions. However, a well blended, multiple AHA formula in a low strength makes a wonderful removal system. If applied to the skin as an ‘occlusion’ masque under strips of cling film, this approach breaks up stubborn Milia and allows the therapist to perform extractions with minimal scarring. AHAs are NOT for home use on acne individuals despite the current popularity of AHA products. There are a multitude of articles about acne and recommended treatments. Some of them contain cut-away skin section drawings suggesting that the technician must have X-ray eyes in order to identify a certain condition, others bamboozle with long lists of ingredients. Others still identify certain ingredients as ‘bad’. Finally, playing with the pH is an effective tool to revise truly inflamed conditions. An acid formula will ‘harden’ the dead and dying corneum very quickly and the brittle cells then sort of ‘pop off.’ An alkaline solution will ‘soften’ the corneum and any keratinized proteins on the skin as well as hair. This is very good for Folliculitis conditions. What does this mean? Mineral oil is frequently cited as a bad ingredient, but DMK has at Both styles of therapy must be carefully monitored, require advanced training, and of Stress can be subliminal, hormonal and can come from work, family, marriage or social situation. Teenage stress is the worst of them all. When an appropriate acne treatment is applied, a stressed individual will observe a change. This may even, in turn, alleviate the stress that the individual is under. Their positive mental attitude will help the glandular systems to settle. www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 71 DMK post treatment course, the individual’s normal pH must be restored at the conclusion of these types of treatment each time they are performed. Scar revision Many teenagers have superficial acne scars that appear purplish or red. This is a good age to undergo scar revision while the skin is in the growing mode. Unlike ice pick scars that require more intense methods of skin-planning such as dermabrasion, laser treatment, or the Mon’s Tissue Transplant method, teenage acne scars are often removed easily with enzyme treatments. This type of treatment allows the newer, underlying skin cells to rebuild the surface appearance. Again, advanced training is required and these types of treatment may take from six weeks to as long as eight months to show significant results. DMK’s Home Prescriptive range is a vital part of skin revision. Many acne sufferers also exhibit candida and have highly alkaline systems. vitamins and supplements should be recommended to deal with this. Conclusion There are many approaches to acne treatment, drugs among them. My own experience indicates that the cells of the skin respond to the chemistry that they recognize. The chemistry is already in the body waiting to be used – we just have to imitate that chemistry and work with it. DMK Pigmentation Black, Asian, Hispanic, or Aboriginal skins often exhibit biochemical differences. Hyperpigmentation typically accompanies acne in ethnic skin due to the excessive melanocyte activity, which reaches the peripheral epithelium cells and even down the side of hair follicles. Melanin is a defence mechanism that is easily aroused in ethnic skin when the individual squeezes or pinches pimples. Pigmentation treatments, such as the Melanoplex system developed in the United States, need to be performed on ethnic individuals along with the aforementioned acne treatments. 72 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Before After © 2006 Courtesy Leanne Cave, Skin for Life Before After © 2006 Courtesy Leanne Cave, Skin for Life Before After Before After Before After Before After Before After Before After 73 Notes 74 www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In Notes www.dannemking.com DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In 75 “Quality is never an accident; it is always the result of high intention, sincere effort, intelligent direction and skilful execution; it represents the wise choice of many alternatives.” William A. Foster DMK education, DMK expertise DMK – Building a World of Confidence from the Outside In www.dannemking.com