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Skin Diversity Explained By: Prof. Karl Lintner KAL’IDEES Beauty Labs Innovation you can build onTM What does the Science say? Racial differences in skin function do occur and may be responsible for differences in skin reactivity. The main racial anatomic and physiological differences concern irritation, sensitisation, and drug absorption. Decreased transcutaneous penetration has been reported in black persons. In contrast, conflicting findings have been reported concerning some aspects of irritation and sensitisation. Regional variation in skin function is more evident in fair skin because of the modifying effects of long-term UV exposure. Enzo Berardescaa, MD & Howard Maibach. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology Volume 34, Issue 4, April 1996, Pages 667–672 Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained Multilevel complexity… The influence of skin pigmentation has been investigated on the upper-outer arm of black, white and oriental volunteers. No difference found between race in corneocyte surface area, (900 microns2 ). By contrast, spontaneous desquamation is increased in black vs white and oriental skin (factor 2.5, p <0.001). The importance of the intercellular cement for the cohesion between corneocytes should be investigated, i.e. racial differences in epidermal lipid composition Corcuff P, Lotte C, Rougier A, Maibach HI. Acta Dermato-venereologica [1991, 71(2):146-148] Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained Spontaneous desquamation and corneocyte size reflect respectively S.C. cohesiveness and epidermal cell proliferation. Ethnic skin types: where are the frontiers between them? Innovation you can build onTM Best review on the subject: A. V. Rawlings Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained Ethnic skin types: are there differences in skin structure and function? International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2006, 28, 79–93 Conclusions from this review: Darker pigmented subjects show dermatological signs of aging later than lightly pigmented subjects Differences in SC biology are apparent in different skin types. Asians in general have the lowest TEWL, highest water content and highest SC lipid levels. The findings are opposite for Black skin. Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained Skin pigmentation dictates many of the changes in skin associated with aging. Other findings This probably accounts for the higher microbial flora present Larger studies need to be conducted and skin color type (ITA value) more carefully documented rather than using an ethnicity or racial label. Geographic, climatic, hormonal, psychological (stress) influences must be taken into account Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained Black skin has a greater gland pore size, increased apocrine and apoeccrine glands and greater sebum secretion Outlook: Tremendous progress in understanding the signaling processes involved in hyperpigmentary responses of different racial groups (PAR-2 system) But: Very little is understood of the biology of other skin structures in ethnic groups. Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained Increased biological understanding of the mechanisms of skin coloration "Ethnic" Skin care:a real market? The Fitzpatrick skin type scale is one of the most common methods of classifying skin types, and ranges from Type I to Type VI. The scale was created by Dr Thomas B. Fitzpatrick in 1975, and has been widely used as a standard for dermatologists and skin care experts ever since. Skin Diversity Explained Innovation you can build onTM Asian Skin: Have higher no. of Ceramides – although this declines with age – and not sufficient to offset the fewer corneocytes More sensitive to environmental aggressions, irritants and, pollution and oxidants Less resistant to mechanical stress Prematurely marked by irregular pigmentation and spot Dermis of Asian skin has more collagen I than other groups Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained Thinner stratum corneum –fewer corneocytes and less cohesive Skin Diversity Explained Innovation you can build onTM COMPOSITION Reconnected with ancestral traditions, MĚIRITAGE™ is an anti-ageing active which fortifies the skin to recover a younger look. The 3 following root extracts have been selected according to the principles of Traditional Chinese Medicine: Root extract of Astragalus membranaceus Its antioxidant properties allow to protect cells against damage caused by free radicals. Root extract of Bupleurum falcatum Has anti-inflammatory and detoxification properties Root extract of Atractylodes macrocephala used for >2000 years for the removal of dark spots (face and hands) Innovation you can build onTM EVALUATION BY EXPERT JUDGES 2 months of application; 4 expert judges filled out questionnaires on 5 criteria. Rating scale with scores ranging from 0 to 7. Improvement on all criteria both versus T0 and placebo is observed. Visible results : Brightening of the complexion Reduction of wrinkles. Innovation you can build onTM UNIFORMITY OF THE COMPLEXION Photographs taken under cross-polarised light MĚIRITAGE ™ 3% T0 Innovation you can build onTM T2 months UNIFORMITY OF THE COMPLEXION Colorskin (Newtone) - Image analysis software that measures the variations in skin complexion. After 2 months, MĚIRITAGE™ enhances by +7.4% the uniformity of the skin. The blemishes of the skin are reduced and less visible. Innovation you can build onTM BRIGHTENING OF HYPERPIGMENTED AREAS MĚIRITAGE™ 3% T0 Photographs taken under cross-polarised light Innovation you can build onTM T2 months BRIGHTENING OF HYPERPIGMENTED AREAS Luminosity FrameScan® V03 (Orion Concept) - Image analysis software for measurement of L* parameter MEIRITAGE™ leads to a visible improvement in luminosity after only ONE month’s application. Innovation you can build onTM BRIGHTENING OF HYPERPIGMENTED AREAS Pigmentation intensity Measurement of the Melanin Index using a Mexameter® MX18 (Courage & Khazaka). The melanin content is reduced by 19%, and up to 60%, after only 2 month’s application with MĚIRITAGE™. The pigmentation becomes more even and the existing spots are significantly attenuated. Innovation you can build onTM HYDRATION Photographs taken under diffuse light The skin looks smoothened with a visible reduction of wrinkles . Innovation you can build onTM HYDRATION IMPROVEMENT FOR A YOUNGER LOOK Measurement of water loss of the cutaneous barrier by successive stripping using a VapoMeter™ (Delfin). While the dehydration increased with the placebo, MĚIRITAGE™ significantly reduces water loss by 15% after only ONE month’s application. Innovation you can build onTM "Black" skin Better protected against mechanical stress Desquamation rate ( 2,5x higher that Asians) Same amount of melanocytes as light skin, but much greater tyrosinase basal activity. Much more reactive to UV exposure Appears to be less well moisturized than other skin types Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained Larger pore size, more oily skin COMPOSITION OF EVERMAT™ Inhibition of 5α reductase Innovation you can build onTM Regulation of sebocyte and keratinocyte differentiation and proliferation Skin Diversity Explained An association of: Enantia chlorantha extract rich in protoberberines Oleanolic acid from Olive tree leaves IN VIVO PORE SIZE 19 panellists (men and women) 28 days Twice daily application Gel cream containing 3% Evermat™ Evaluation of the pore size by image analysis Significant decrease of the pore surface up to -36% (1st quartile) Innovation you can build onTM IN VITRO Inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanin production on B16 cells DAB is 30 times more active than Kojic acid The efficacy of DAB on melanogenesis is visible to the naked eye Innovation you can build onTM LUMISKIN (%) (eq DAB ppm) 1.25% 2.5% 3.7% 12.5 ppm 25 ppm 37 ppm 1000ppm 0 % inhibition / control The inhibiting activity of DAB on tyrosinase is dose dependent and reaches 53% with only 37 ppm Kojic acid 0.1% -10 -20 -30 -40 -50 -60 -70 -80 Tyrosinase Melanin IN VITRO Inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanin production on B16 cells Control Innovation you can build onTM 566ppm Kojic Acid 25ppm DAB SkinEthic 3D model of epidermis type VI EX VIVO 40 ppm 4% DAB Lumiskin Epidermis after 7 days of contact Control Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained 12,5 ppm 1.25% CH3 O CH3O CH3O O CH3 N O CH3 1000 ppm Diacetyl-boldine (DAB) in C8C10 triglycerides Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained O An instant and gradual skin brightener Modified titanium dioxide with no white residue Long term skin brightening effect Encapsulated diacetylboldine Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained Instant luminous, mat effect on the skin Skin Diversity Explained Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained Innovation you can build onTM Innovation you can build onTM AFTER 1 Month Skin Diversity Explained BEFORE Talking about desquamation… DSQUAME® Skin Diversity Explained Innovation you can build onTM IN VIVO • • • • • 15 volunteers (19 to 35 years old) Phototype IV (melanin index 631) Twice daily application of emulsion containing MOIST 24™ at 3% Leg treated compared to untreated site Corneometer every hour for 7 hours, and then after 24 hours Immediate moisture (T 1 hour): Innovation you can build onTM +58% IN VIVO Corneocytes after 24 hours Innovation you can build onTM "Caucasian" Skin: Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained - dryer skin in areas exposed to sun, extreme weather, and pollutions - Sensitive to mechanical aggressions, pollution, UV etc. . _ prone to wrinkles, discoloration, redness etc.., "Caucasian" Skin: Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained Dryer skin in areas exposed to sun, extreme weather Sensitive to mechanical aggressions, pollution, UV etc. Prone to wrinkles, discoloration, redness etc… Ages more quickly, tissue degradation IN VIVO ANTI-WRINKLE EFFICACY on the forehead The lifting effect makes the forehead wrinkles even out. Innovation you can build onTM IN VIVO ANTI-WRINKLE EFFICACY on the forehead Innovation you can build onTM IN VIVO ANTI-WRINKLE EFFICACY on the crow’s feet Wrinkles are visibly smoothed on the crow’s feet. Innovation you can build onTM IN VIVO ANTI-WRINKLE EFFICACY on the crow’s feet Wrinkles are visibly smoothed and appear filled from the inside. Innovation you can build onTM The wrinkle spread parameter IN VIVO ANTI-WRINKLE EFFICACY on the crow’s feet Innovation you can build onTM IN VIVO In vivo clinical assessment: Protocol: Biochemical moisture markers (forearm) Caspase-14 Endogenous glycerol 38 volunteers (male and female), mean age: 47 years, with dry skin, applied twice daily a cream containing 3% REVIDRATE™ for 2 months on the face and forearm against placebo. Epidermis moisture (face) Corneometry Moisturemetry Cutaneous barrier (forearm) TEWL Wettability Innovation you can build onTM Epidermis moisture was also assessed: After 21 days with 17 volunteers. 1 week after the last application with 27 volunteers. IN VIVO Biochemical moisture markers Innovation you can build onTM IN VIVO Biochemical moisture markers Innovation you can build onTM IN VIVO Epidermis moisture with Corneometer® and MoistureMeterD™ Innovation you can build onTM IN VIVO Epidermis moisture with Corneometer™ and MoistureMeterD™ Innovation you can build onTM IN VIVO Epidermis moisture with Corneometer™ and MoistureMeterD™ Innovation you can build onTM IN VIVO Cutaneous barrier: TEWL measured with a Vapometer® after stripping Wettability measured with a videomicroscope and image analysis Innovation you can build onTM T0 Innovation you can build onTM T1 month T2 months IN VIVO MELANIN Melanin spots T0 Innovation you can build onTM VISIA® system T1 month Face n=24 IN VIVO MELANIN Melanin spots Melanin spots VISIA® system Face n=24 CHROMOCARE™ 3% T1 month T2 months % variation vs. T0 -4.3% -7.6% Significance p<0.05 p<0.01 Age saving vs. T0 -2.7 years -4.8 years Improved volunteers 71% 79% *Placebo: ns T0 Innovation you can build onTM T1 month IN VIVO HAEMOGLOBIN Redness and microvessels T0 Innovation you can build onTM VISIA® system Face n=24 T1 month IN VIVO HAEMOGLOBIN Redness and microvessels Redness and microvessels VISIA® system Face n=24 CHROMOCARE™ 3% T1 month T2 months % variation vs. T0 -8.2% -10.8% Significance p<0.05 p<0.05 Improved volunteers 75% 71% *Placebo: ns T0 Innovation you can build onTM T1 month Conclusion Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained Ethnic skin is difficult to define, to characterise… A continuum of parameter variation from Norway to Congo via Asia or Brazil But: some more specific product formulations and claims are possible Consumers have to learn what their skin type conforms to, independent of their birth place or skin color or cultural preference Skin adapts to external circumstances Skin Diversity Explained SEDERMA 29 rue du Chemin Vert F-78612 Le Perray en Yvelines cedex +33 1 34 84 10 10 +33 1 34 84 11 30 [email protected] www.sederma.fr SEDERMA, Inc. 300-A Columbus Circle Edison, New Jersey 08837-USA Tel : + 1 732- 692-1652 Fax. : + 1 732- 417-0804 [email protected] [email protected] Non-warranty: The information in this publication is given in good faith by Sederma by way of general guidance and for reference purposes only. The information should not be construed as granting a license to practice any methods or compositions of matter covered by patents. Sederma assumes no liability in relation to the information and gives no warranty regarding the suitability of the product and/or ingredients described for a particular use. The use made of the product and/or ingredients described by the recipient and any claims or representations made by the recipient in respect of such product and/or ingredients are the responsibility of the recipient. The recipient is solely responsible for ensuring that products marketed to consumers comply with all relevant laws and regulations. Innovation you can build onTM Targeting the Needs of Diverse Skin Asian Skin Black Skin Evermat™ Lumiskin™ Lumisphere™ Moist 24™ Caucasian Skin Matrixyl® Synthe’6™ Revidrate™ Chromocare™ Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained Meiritage™ Additional Information To order free samples, click here. Thank you! Innovation you can build onTM Skin Diversity Explained To contact us, email [email protected]
