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Marine Science Tank Packet
Shedding Some Light on Lighting
Aquarium lighting serves many purposes. It illuminates the tank for
our viewing, it provides aquarium inhabitants with a natural sense of
day and night, and it provides a necessary source of light for
photosynthesis in plants and invertebrates. An aquarium with
improper lighting can promote algae growth, make fish sluggish, and
cause unhealthy plants, anemones, corals, and other invertebrates.
The correct lighting will make fish and decorations appear more
colorful, plants grow greener and healthier, and marine invertebrates
thrive in their aquarium environment.
What is the difference between incandescent, metal halide and
fluorescent lighting systems and bulbs? Incandescent lighting is
most commonly used for lighting your home. Incandescent bulbs
used in lamps, desk lights, etc. provide a natural pleasing light, but are
only useful for lighting very small aquariums. These bulbs run hot
and are not very energy efficient.
Fluorescent lighting is the most widely used type of lighting for
aquarium use. These energy efficient, cool operating, bright bulbs are
available in a variety 01 lengths, wattages and spectral outputs. These
tubes can be used to light plant tanks and reef aquariums. When
using multiple bulbs, various types can be used together to provide
different lighting results. The fixtures for these bulbs are as diverse as
the bulbs themselves. There are simple single bulb strip lights, multibulb enclosed fixtures and retro-fit fixtures for placement inside
custom tops. Some people prefer to assemble their own fixtures using
ballasts, endcaps and reflective sheets.
Compact Fluorescents are the next generation in fluorescent
lighting. They are comparable to VHO in their output without the
high energy consumption and heat. They are extremely energy
efficient and have an average bulb life of 14-16 months, resulting in a
very cost-effective product. They are single ended making
installation simple, and their low profile design allows them to be
used in small applications. Replacement compact bulbs come in two
styles: European and Japanese. The European design has a 4-straight
pin arrangement and will fit Oceanic, All Glass and Perfecto fixtures.
The Japanese style has a 4-square pin arrangement and will fit Custom
Sealife and most Coralife fixtures.
Metal Halide lighting is
the best possible lighting
available for planted
freshwater aquariums
and saltwater reef
aquariums. These bulbs
produce a high quality, extremely bright light. They are available in
4300K (Kelvin), 5500K, 6500K and 10.000K. The Kelvin ratings are a
way of measuring the spectral output of the bulb. 4300K and 5500K
bulbs are recommended for freshwater plant tanks, 5500K bulbs are
used on reef aquariums along with actinic 03 fluorescent tubes and
the 6500K bulbs are used on reef aquariums without the need to run
actinic 03 tubes.
Metal halide fixtures are often designed to hang above the aquarium
in order to disperse the light and to reduce the amount of heat
radiated to the tank. These fixtures are available in many styles and
colors to suit your decor. Metal halide fixtures can also be purchased
Algicides
Excessive algae growth is one of the biggest
complaints from aquarium keepers. It covers
our rocks, driftwood and aquarium glass.
Agicides are a very effective aid in
fighting the battle against
unwanted algae growth, but we must also
determine the cause of the growth, but we must
also determine the cause of the growth in order to
stem it permanently. The algae should be cleaned
from the aquarium before using an algicide
Algicides are not recommended with live plants
Below are the most common causes of excessive
algae
What is the right lighting system for your aquarium?
There are four main aquarium lighting situations. A freshwater
aquarium without live plants, a freshwater aquarium with live plant
a saltwater fish only aquarium and a reef or semi-reef aquarium wit
invertebrates and live corals.
A freshwater aquarium that does not contain live plants can
be sufficiently lighted with a system containing fluorescent tubes
designed for enhancing aquarium colors. Incandescent light fixture
can be used on smaller aquariums, usually under
10 gallons. When an aquarium is being lit
with minimal lighting as in this case,
black, brown and other undesirable algae
may thrive if water quality falters.
A freshwater aquarium with live plants
becomes a little more involved. The plants
in the aquarium require abundant,
quality light for photosynthesis. There are
two types of lighting systems that can be
used to accomplish this; metal halide and
fluorescent.
Fluorescent systems are able to provide sufficient light for
freshwater live plants. They ran cool and are extremely energy
efficient. Full-spectrum bulbs should be used to insure proper
light requirements for proper photosynthesis. A multiple number
of standard wattage tubes, high output (HO) tubes or very high
output {VHO) tubes are be needed in deep aquariums to provide
enough light for keeping the aquatic plants healthy.
Note: HO and VHO bulbs require a special fixture and ballast to
operate.
Metal Halide systems provide the ultimate in lighting for
aquarium. plants. These intense lights provide high quality
lighting without need for multiple fluorescent tubes. These types
of fixtures are often suspended above the aquarium to more
easily disperse light and reduce heat exchange. When using metal
halide light on freshwater aquarium plants a 4300°K bulb is
recommended.
Saltwater fish only aquariums can easily
with full-spectrum and color enhancing
bulbs in a fluorescent fixture. HO or bulbs
might be necessary in deep aquariums. Always be
sure to provide sufficient light for healthy green algae
growth, which can be consumed by fish, snails, etc.
Insufficient light lead to the growth of undesirable
Saltwater reef and
invertebrate aquariums
require high quality intense
lighting systems.
Smaller tanks can be lit by
multiple
fluorescent tubes, while larger aquariums
will require Metal Halide and/or HO or
VHO fluorescent tubes. Proper
photosynthesis can only occur with
quality full spectrum lighting, so be sure
to use bulbs recommended for saltwater
invertebrates. (Improper lighting in a reef
aquarium will cause the zooxanthellae in
anemones and corals to die and cause the
anemones and corals in which they dwell to
shrink and die). Always remember lighting on a reef
aquarium is just as important as the filtration that is used.
1. Direct Sunlight Is the tank located near a
window where it can get direct sunlight?
2. Too Long A Lighting Period The aquarium
. light(s) should not be on more than 12 hours
per day. If you are keeping live plants or
saltwater invertebrates you may wish to keep
the light on somewhat longer, but do not leave it
on all the time.
3. Improper Lighting Spectrum Are the bulbs
you are using appropriate for the type offish,
plants or invertebrates you are keeping? (See the
section on lighting.)
4. High Nitrate Or Phosphate Levels Algae
(especially green hair algae) use nitrate and
phosphate as a food source. Be sure to test for
both nitrate and phosphate and keep these
levels low by doing water changes and using
chemical medias to remove them
Filtering Facts
Aquarium filters are available in sizes and
styles to accommodate any type or size of
aquarium that you choose. A good filter will
provide high water quality for the fish kept in
the closed environment of the aquarium,
and keep the water crystal clear for your
viewing pleasure. To achieve this ideal
situation, the appropriate size and style filter
must be used. To select the proper filter for
your aquarium, you must understand three
different types of water filtration;
Mechanical, Chemical and Biological.
Mechanical Filtration is
simply the removal of
suspended particles offish
waste, excess food, plant
matter, dust and other debris
from the aquarium water.
Most filters provide
mechanical filtration byway
of a floss cartridge, pad or
sponge to trap suspended
debris as water passes
through it
Chemical Filtration is achieved with
carbon, resins or other media which remove
dissolved waste materials such as organics
(fish waste, decaying plant material, etc.)
that can cause odors and discolorations of
the aquarium water. Chemical medias placed
in a filter can also remove toxins,
phosphates, nitrates, ammonia and much
more. The amount of chemical filtration a
filter is able to provide is very important.
Biological Filtration is the process in which
beneficial bacteria convert organics that
have broken down into toxic compounds,
most importantly ammonia and nitrite, into
far less toxic compounds (nitrate). These
less toxic compounds can then be removed
by periodic water changes, chemical
filtration, or other means. Biological
filtration is often overlooked, and yet is the
most important type of aquarium water
filtration. Most complaints of a cloudy tank
are due to a lack of biological nitration.
Insufficient bacterial surface area force the
bacteria to float freely in the aquarium
causing hazy, milky water.
Note: The addition of too many fish too
quickly can also cause these "bacteria
blooms" and are not always from a lack of
biological surface area in the aquarium
filter(s).
There are several different types of filters
available including: canister, hanging (power),
diatom, wet/dry, undergravel, comer and
submersible. Some filters provide only one type
of filtration while others provide all three types.
If a filter provides only one or two types of
filtration, a second filter can be used to
supplement the system with the remaining
type(s) of nitration. For example, most power
filters provide an excellent source of
mechanical and chemical filtration, but are
often lacking in the biological filtration needed
to maintain a fair load offish in the aquarium.
An undergravel filter can then be added to
provide the high amount of biological filtration
that the power filter lacks.
The following is a brief description of the types
of filters and how they operate:
Canister Filters are usually
situated beneath the
aquarium in the stand. They
are available in sizes for
aquariums from 20 to 400
gallons or more if used in
multiples. The}' provide
mechanical and chemical
nitration, and many also
provide biological filtration as
well. Hose intakes and returns
connect die tank to the filter
and therefore allow the tank
to be placed closer to the wall.
Canister filters are sealed and
force water
through the media without bypassing it as in
many other types of systems. These filters
often offer accessories such as disconnect
valves for easy cleaning, filter cartridges for
polish cleaning, prefilters for removing plant
leaves and many more.
Diatom Filters are used for polish cleaning the
aquarium periodically, usually once a week.
They use diatomaceous earth ,
powder to filter out particles too
small to be trapped by media used
in conventional, "fulltime"
operating filters. Diatom filters are
capable of filtering out material so
small that they are able to actually
remove parasites such as "ick"
from the aquarium water. They
leave the aquarium sparkling clean
after only a few hours of use. Note:
These filters are not recommended
for use on a continual basis, they
clog very L quickly and require
servicing within a short time.
A good filter will
provide high
Water quality and keep the
water crystal clear for your
viewing pleasure•
Power Filters are
probably the most commonly used type of
filters in the _j aquarium hobby. They are
simple to install and maintain, providing
both mechanical and chemical filtration.
Units are also available with a source of
biological filtration. The niters pump high
volumes of water and can be used on many
different types and sizes of aquariums.
Submersible Filters are put
in the aquarium water and
are ideal for unusual
installations where other
filters can not be used, or
additional circulation is
desired. The entire filter is
submerged and attached to
the aquarium frame or glass.
They mainly provide
mechanical nitration, but
some models do allow the use
of small amounts of carbon for
chemical filtration. These filters provide very
little biological filtration and should be
supplemented accordingly. These filters are
excellent for providing additional
circulation.
Undergravel Filters are
designed for the sole
purpose of providing
biological filtration, by
circulating water through
the gravel bed and
oxygenating it for beneficial
bacteria growth. They are
operated with the use of an
air pump or powerhead.
These filters do not provide
mechanical or chemical
filtration and should
therefore be used with a canister, power or
submersible filter to assure proper water
quality.
Wet/Dry Filters
are the ultimate
in aquarium
water filtration.
They provide
mechanical,
chemical and
biological
filtration for both
freshwater and
saltwater aquariums.
Biological filtration is
taken to a new plateau by trickling water
over a bio-media, increasing the available
oxygen for the bacteria and thereby
increasing the amount of bacteria growth.
Chemical filtration is supplied with section
Undergravel Filters
Undergravel Filters are designed for the sole purpose of providing biological filtration, by circulating water through the gravel bed and
oxygenating it for beneficial bacteria growth. They are operated with the use of an air pump or powerhead. These filters do not provide
mechanical or chemical filtration and should therefore be used with a canister, power or submersible filter to assure proper water quality.
Wet/Dry Filters
What is a Wet/Dry Filter? (Why Wet/Dry?)
Wet/dry filters provide optimum biological filtration for aquariums to a wet/dry system water trickles over exposed media (such as
bio" bails or other media designed with surfaces that promote bacteria growth) mixing air and water performing oxygenation. This
biological filtration and gas exchange occur as the water flows in a thin layer over the media surface where the bacteria grows and
oxidation of nitrite and ammonia can occur. Removing these harmful elements from the water is crucial to the health of the aquarium
and aids in maintaining a stress free aquatic environment
AAquarium
Cleanmaintenance
Aquarium...
is probably the number one factor in determining success or failure in fish keep. An aquarium can have the most
advanced biological, chemical and mechanical filtration available and still never be “crystal clear”. Even an Aquarium with the most
most complete supplements and additives introduced regularly can not remain healthy for its inhabitants if a maintenance schedule is not
set and adhered to. Waste products from uneaten food, decaying plant material and even biological filtration will build up in
the system and risk the health of the aquarium inhabitants. These dangerous substances must be removed through water changes, cleaning
of gravel and replacing old filter medias. Excessive algae must be removed from me aquarium not only to provide an unobstructed view of
your fish, but to also remove the potentially harmful compounds they absorb and may release. Disease spreads rapidly in unkept
aquariums in which organic- material is permitted to breakdown. Nitrate levels rise dangerously, algae grows out of control, poisonous
gasses can be released and fish may begin to die. Water changes and routine maintenance are essential to every aquarium.
The products on these pages were designed by many excellent companies, devoted to providing you with equipment to make routine
maintenance as easy for you as it is vital to the well being of your fish.
Protein Skimmers
Filter Media Facts
There; are a large number of filter media available for every type of
filter. There are so many, in fact, that it is often difficult to choose the
appropriate media. The information below will help you to
understand what filter media are designed to accomplish, and how
they can benefit your fish, plants and invertebrates.
Mechanical Filtration Medias are used to remove varying sizes of
free-floating particulate matter from the aquarium water. They are
also valuable to prevent chemical and biological media from
clogging with debris and reducing their efficiency. There are many
forms of mechanical media available, including pads, sponges, floss,
micron sheets, etc. Many come in the form of a cartridge designed to
fit specific brands and styles of filter systems while others can be cut
or shaped to fit any type of filter.
Biological Filtration Medias provide a large amount of surface area
for the development of beneficial bacteria. These media are placed
either in a filter or in the tank itself and provide the ideal environment
for aerobic (oxygen rich environment) bacteria to breakdown
ammonia and nitrite or anaerobic (oxygen poor environment)
bacteria for the breakdown of nitrate. Biological filtration is the most
important form of nitration, without the
Proper amount of bacteria, ammonia from the accumulation of fish
waste will rise until it reaches a level in which fish can not survive.
These medias are ideal to add to existing systems in which the load of
fish has reached a level too high to be maintained by the existing
bacteria.
Chemical Filtration Media are designed to remove dissolved
compounds that are harmful or undesirable in the aquarium water.
Media are available to remove odors, water colorations, , toxic
ammonia and nitrite, as well as algae causing phosphates and
nitrates. These media are-often placed in a filter bag and then placed
in the aquarium filter. The media then removes its appointed
compound(s) by one of two methods, absorption or adsorption.
Absorption occurs when the unwanted molecules are, trapped in
cracks or pores within the media. Absorbtion is accomplished by
attracting the Unwanted molecules to the media surface by way of a
chemical charge. Both methods provide high quality filtration and are
often combined in the form of one media, as is the case with activated
carbon. These media can reduce the number of water changes, fish
and invertebrates can have a cleaner and healthier environment,
algae can be reduced or eliminated, water will be clearer, etc.
Protein skimmers, also known as foam fractionators, remove
dissolved organic material from your marine aquarium. This is
accomplished through mixing air and saltwater together using either a
fine pore airstone or an air mixing valve called a venturi. Water is
passed through a contact chamber where air is mixed to form fine
foam. Dissolved organics (proteins) attach to these small air bubbles
in the contact chamber and rise to the surface of the Contact
chamber. These compounds concentrate at the surface and are
pushed up a riser tube and into a collection cup where they can be
discarded. When left in the water, these materials, are mineralized
into toxic nitrogen compounds. These nitrogen compounds must .
be removed by water changes, chemical medias or most importantly
through biological filtration. When biologically filtered, the nitrogen
compounds end up in the form of nitrate and phosphate. High nitrate
levels in the aquarium cause stress to fish and invertebrates. High
nitrates and phosphates also cause algae problems. A protein skimmer
will reduce the number of water changes by controlling nitrate and
phosphate levels. A skimmer will make water clearer and healthier for
fish and invertebrates. A skimmer will remove toxins, surface film,
and more.
Always be sure to purchase a skimmer that is appropriately sized for
your aquarium. Most skimmers do not include pumps, tubing or other
necessary accessories for installation. Be sure to check with our
knowledgeable sales staff.
Testing Equipment ---------------------------------------------------------------------.Highlevels 01 mnaLt; turn jjuuojjua^ ^, ^.-™ „„
Water Chemistry is imperative to the
health of your aquarium. High levels of nitrite and phosphate can
cause algae growth. High Ammonia and nitrite causes cloudy water
and unhealthy fish. Incorrect pH will stress fish, which causes
infections and disease. These problems can be detected and corrected
by testing your water. A variety of kits and devices are available to
test your water parameters.
Recommended Kits
Freshwater: Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, pH, GH/KH.
Saltwater (fish only): Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, pH, Alkalinity.
.-.••:
Saltwater Reef Aquarium: Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, pH, Alkalinity, Calcium.
:
Additional Kits:
Phosphate - optional test for fresh and saltwater algae problems;.••: Iron- a
certain amount is needed for live plants or macroalgae; Copper - if using a
copper medication.
Biological Supplements
Biological conditioners add beneficial nitrifying bacteria to the
aquarium when initially setting up an aquarium, during water
changes, filter maintenance or after power outages. Adding these
prepared cultures directly to the aquarium reduces "cycling time,"
by a number of weeks.
Water Conditioners
Chemical conditioners are used to remove chlorine, heavy metals and other
contaminants from tap or aquarium water. They can also add a protective slime
coating to fish during transport, water changes or other stressful situations.
pH Regulators & Buffers (Fresh & Saltwater)
Proper pH
Use Proper pH whenever setting up a new aquarium, adjusting the pH of existing
aquariums or adjusting pH during water changes. Proper pH automatically sets
aquarium pH, neutralizes chlorine in tap water, adds aloe vera to help heal skin
wounds and torn fins, adds needed electrolytes and detoxifies heavy metals.
pH Buffers and Regulators
Aquarium pH is extremely important to good fish health. Fluctuations
or improper levels will promote disease and death of fish. pH levels
can be maintained with the use of buffers added to the aquarium
water. Be sure to test alkalinity (KH or carbonate hardness) levels
when preventing a pH drop (especially in marine reef aquariums). If
the aquariums alkalinity drops, the pH will soon begin to drop as well.
Keeping aquarium gravel clean, changing filter cartridges regularly,
removing decaying algae and plant leaves will help prevent severe pH
drops. If mere is a problem with a pH level that is too high, an acid
buffer should be used (freshwater aquariums only) to maintain proper
levels. It is best to keep fish that do well in the pH of the water you are
using. pH levels that are +/- .5 than desired can be difficult to
maintain, without the use of a reverse osmosis or deionizer unit. pH
adjusters and buffers are available in liquid, powder or tablet form. All
are equally effective. Be sure to follow manufacturer directions, levels
should not be changed too quickly when fish are in the aquarium.
Fluctuations, as previously mentioned, are dangerous.
Iodine and Iodide: Iodine is important to soft corals, macro-algae and
crustaceans in marine aquariums. Vital to shrimp during the molting
process.
Strontium and Molybdenum
The strontium and molybdenum combination
of essential elements aid in the processing of
calcium by invertebrates in marine aquariums.
Corals detaching from their skeletons is usually a
sign that these elements are needed.
0-_
Reverse Osmosis & Deionizers
You would be amazed at the dissolved metals and other nasty
contaminants that are present in your tap water, and even in some
filtered water! The only way to be sure that your water is absolutely
safe for your fish is to filter it yourself. Two technologies, an R.O. Unit
or a Deionizer, are now available to properly filter your water,
removing up to 98% of heavy metals like lead, mercury, and copper,
leaving you with pure, clean, simple H2O.
What is an R.O. Unit? An R.O. Unit is a special water filter that
usually hooks right up to your faucet. A prefilter takes out large
particles and chlorine before it gets to the special membrane filter.
This membrane filter acts like the membranes in our body's cells.
Only tiny oxygen and water molecules are small enough to pass
through this membrane. Larger particles, like dissolved lead, mercury
or other metals, as well as dissolved organic wastes, are too big to get
through this membrane. The water that you get out of an R.O. unit is
about as pure as water can be!
Won't an R.O. Unit take out all the good minerals, too? Most of the
beneficial minerals in regular water, like calcium and magnesium,
come from ground up rock and are not in the proper form to be
absorbed by your fish. By using an R.O. Unit, you can be sure that
your water is pure and uncontaminated, and you can then add the
proper vitamins and minerals from supplements made to be
absorbed by fish. You can control the nutrients in your aquarium, no
need to worry about too much calcium or wasted nutrients.
What is the difference between TFC and CTA membrane R.O. Units?
TFC stands for Thin Film Composite. This is a NASA designed
membrane that is bacteria resistant and can be used with chlorinated
or non-chlorinated water sources. CTA stands for Cellulose Triacetate.
This membrane is organic in nature and should only be used on
chlorinated water sources as mold and bacteria can damage it.
How do I choose the right R.O. Unit? R.O. units are usually sold by
the type of membrane they use and the amount of water they
produce in one day. If you have a larger tank, you will probably want
an R.O. unit that produces a larger amount of water per day so that
enough water will be available when you are ready to perform water
changes and maintenance. For instance, if you have a 100 gallon tank,
a twenty percent water change requires 20 new gallons of water. You
would need to make sure you purchase an R.O. unit that will produce
at least twenty gallons in one day, although choosing one . with a
higher gallon per day output is a good idea in case of emergencies. If
your water supply doesn't have the proper water pressure, you may
need to purchase a separate pump to insure the water flows through
the R.O. unit efficiently. The membrane you will need is determined
by whether your source water is chlorinated or non-chlorinated. TFC
membranes work for both non- and chlorinated water sources while
CTA membranes are for use with chlorinated-only water sources.
Why do I need an R.O. Unit? If you know your tap water is not the
best quality for your fish, or even if you aren't sure about your water
qualify, an R.O. unit is the only way to be sure. They are relatively easy
to use; they hook right up to your faucet. R.O. water is absolutely safe
for drinking (many people use them for this purpose alone), and any
waste water from an R.O. unit can be recycled to water plants or for
any type of yard maintenance. An R.O. Unit will save you money if
you are currently purchasing bottled water. The filter membrane lasts
3-4 years, and any pre-filters usually cost around $4 and can be
changed about every month. If you have any concerns that your water
source may not be the best for your aquarium investment, an R.O.
Unit will take care of that concern for sure.
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