Download CARE OF GUZMANIAS

CARE OF GUZMANIAS
Guzmania bromeliads are wonderfully
stunning tabletop plants. They feature
long, narrow, shiny green leaves that rise
from a deep central cup. The plants are
somewhat taller than many bromeliads.
Their large and showy flower bracts arise
in the summer in an amazing array of
colors. Guzmania are not difficult
bromeliads to grow, and they will reward
you with many weeks of color with little
or no effort. Guzmania are fairly typical
bromeliads. The two best tips for success
are these: make sure the plant is potted
adequately, so it won't pull over the
container and provide ample warmth and
humidity
Growing Conditions:
Light: Guzmania, among the entire Bromeliaceae, require lower light levels. Indirect
light or moderate shade is the best exposure. These plants don't acclimate to higher
light levels as well as some other bromeliads, so be extra careful about exposure to
direct sunlight.
Water: For what they need less in light, they require more in moisture. These thinleaved Guzmania will suffer if the compost and their cups are allowed to dry out,
resulting in unsightly brown leaf tips which travel toward the urn. Keep water in the
central cup. Change water frequently with clean water to prevent rot. Avoid tap
water if possible.
Temperature: These are warm-house bromeliads that appreciate high humidity and
warmth. Most bromeliads are tropical or subtropical and thrive outdoors in high
summer temperatures. Many tolerate temperatures in excess of 90°F. In a home
environment, however, bromeliads do best at 70-75°F during the day and between
60 and 65°F at night. Guzmanias should not be exposed to temperatures below
50°F. If the plant is exposed to cold, dump out the central cup and refill with warmer
water at the first available opportunity.
Soil: These are technically airplants that use their roots for support. Soil medium
should be welldrained . Compaction is always fatal and suffocates the roots. Use
African Violet mix or a peat based medium, with perlite. Guzmania can be grown as
epiphytes; however growth rate is significantly slower.
Fertilizer: Fertilizer very sparingly with a liquid fertilizer during the growing
season.Diluted amounts can be used and administered at each watering, when the
top of the compost feels dry to the touch. It has been observed that the
most absorption of nutrients, in Guzmania, occurs within an hour of fertilizing. Their
urns should be tipped over and refilled with fresh water now and then so as to avoid
build up of mineral salts which can burn the plants and to keep the water from
becoming stale.
Flowering: Most bromeliads only flower once under home/office conditions.
However, if new off-shoots are produced, it is possible to induce them to flower by
treating the plant with ethylene gas. Research on the flowering process has shown
that bromeliads can be induced to flower by exposing them to ethylene gas (a
product of burning wood and leaves and ripening fruit and vegetables). After
exposure to ethylene gas, the flowers appear, depending on the genus involved,
within 6 to 14 weeks. A simple method that a home gardener can use to start
bromeliads' flowering is to place a healthy, mature plant with all the water drained
from its cup inside a tightly closed, clear plastic bag for a week to 10 days with a ripe
apple. During senescence (aging process), the apple releases ethylene gas that, in
turn, induces the bromeliad to flower.
Propagation:After the flower bract dies back, cut it off low in the cup. The mother
plant will soon begin to die back, and new plantlets will emerge. When the new
plantlets are a few inches tall, and the mother plant is looking ragged, cut the
mother plant back at soil level, being careful not to damage the young offspring.
These new bromeliads can be potted up individually in small pots, or left to form a
clump. Make sure newly potted bromeliads are well supported they have tendency
to fall over as the root systems are weak at first.
Repotting: Mature bromeliads should not be repotted. Smaller bromeliads can be
potted into small containers until they are established, then moved into 4" or 6" pots
until they flower. Be aware that a mature guzmania is a fairly top heavy plant and
will tip over in a standard plastic pot. Make sure the pot is well weighted.
Varieties: Although there are several varieties of guzmania in cultivation, by far the
most popular in the trade are the G. lingulata and G. sanguinea. Hybridists have
worked with these plants extensively, producing an amazing array of flower bract
colors. The red varieties, among the most popular, include G. 'Luna,' G. 'Passion,'
and many others. Guzmania are also available in multicolors, yellow, white, orange,
and purple