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CIR461
Camellias in Florida 1
Robert Black2
Camellias (see Figure 1) have been a part of the
southern landscape for almost 200 years. They are
native to the Orient and were introduced into the U.S.
near Charleston, South Carolina in 1786. The
common name camellia refers to varieties and hybrids
of Camellia japonica and to the less known varieties
of C. sasanqua and C. reticulate .
exposure, soil modification, and watering is
necessary to have successful growth and flowering of
camellias in central and south Florida.
Camellias can serve several functions in the
landscape including foundation plantings, screens,
accent plants, background groupings and hedges.
Maximum benefit can be achieved by mass plantings
or groupings. Single plants scattered throughout the
home landscape create a busy or cluttered feeling.
Camellias flower in the fall and winter when
their display of colorful blooms is most appreciated.
During the remainder of the year their evergreen
foliage, interesting shapes and textures, and relatively
slow growth make camellias excellent landscape
plants.
Selection of Varieties
Figure 1. Camellia flower.
The climatic conditions of north Florida are well
suited for many camellia varieties. Camellias are
grown less extensively in central Florida and even
less in south Florida. Special care in regard to
Thousands of camellia varieties are offered by
commercial nurseries and many are introduced each
year from seedlings and mutations. Varieties with
single tiered or double flowers are available with
colors from pure white to brilliant crimson and
combinations of colors in numerous patterns. Types
and forms of camellia flowers are illustrated in Figure
2.
1. This document is Circular 461, Department of Environmental Horticulture, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural
Sciences, University of Florida. Date first printed: September 1985. Revised: December 1997, September 2003. Please visit the EDIS website at
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/
2. Robert Black, Extension Consumer Horticulturist; Department of Environmental Horticulture, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and
Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville, 32611.
The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information and
other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non-discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex,
sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions or affiliations. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service,
University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A. & M. University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Larry
Arrington, Dean
Camellias in Florida
2
Figure 2. Types and forms of camellia flowers.
Camellia plants can be selected for size and form
ranging from small and irregular to large and upright.
Texture and foliage color also differ among varieties.
Midseason flowering varieties that bloom from
November through January are best suited for Florida
conditions. Warm fall temperatures may prevent
early varieties from flowering properly.
Late-blooming selections may reinitiate vegetative
growth before the end of the flowering period which
results in "bullnoses." Bullnosing is characterized by
poor quality flowers which do not open fully and may
even drop while still tight buds.
Camellias in Florida
The more common Florida varieties are
presented in Table 1. It is impossible to list in this
publication all the varieties adapted to Florida.
Comprehensive lists of varieties are available in other
publications, including "Camellia Nomenclature" of
the Southern California Camellia Society.
General Culture
Camellias perform best in partially shaded
locations which are enhanced by good water drainage
and air movement. A location that meets the basic
cultural requirements will enable plants to withstand
adverse conditions.
Soils. Fertile soils high in organic matter are
preferred. However, soil amendments and proper
fertilization can modify many Florida soils for
growing camellias. Camellias prefer slightly acid
soils. Soil pH should ideally range from 5.0 to 5.5,
but it need not be adjusted if between 5.0 and 6.5.
Soil with a high pH can be acidified by adding
superfine dusting or wettable sulfur. Care must be
exercised in using sulfur because heavy applications
will cause root injury. Not more than 1 pound of
sulfur per 100 square feet of bed or 1/2 pound per
cubic yard of soil should be applied at one time. The
pH of highly acidic soil can be raised by
incorporating dolomitic limestone into the soil. The
initial pH and the soil characteristics determine the
amount of amendment necessary to correct the pH.
The soil must be well drained because camellias
will not grow in wet areas. Do not plant camellias in
areas having a high water table and/or hardpan. This
will result in a shallow root system which is more
susceptible to injury during dry periods. Areas with a
hardpan can be planted if a lateral tile drain is
provided or if the hardpan layer is broken.
Exposure. Camellias should be located in areas
where cold air can move in and out freely, but the
area should be protected from cold winds. Plantings
under pine trees or on the north or west side of
buildings are usually injured less by cold
temperatures. This is true because the plants can
gradually thaw or warm in the morning before being
exposed to direct sunlight. Dense shade may result in
sparse foliage and poor flowering. Plants exposed to
3
full sun may appear yellow-green, but may yield
more flowers than plants in heavy shade.
Transplanting. The entire planting bed should
be prepared if possible rather than individual holes.
Begin by spading or tilling the entire bed to a depth of
8 to 12 inches. There may be some benefit to
amending the soil in the entire bed with peat, compost
or other organic amendments. If organic amendments
are used, mix 3 to 6 inches of organic matter into the
top 6 to 12 inches of soil. A complete fertilizer,
micronutrients, and acidifying materials should be
added as needed during bed preparation.
Certain situations call for individual planting
holes. The hole should be 2 to 3 times the diameter of
the root ball and no deeper than the height of the root
ball. Disturbing the soil beneath the plant may cause
it to settle too deeply into the soil.
Camellias are best transplanted from November
to February so the roots can become established
before the summer heat. Late spring or summer
planting is possible if extra care is provided.
Plants should be spaced according to their mature
size and rate of growth, usually at least five feet apart.
The plants should be set into the soil at the same
depth as they were in the nursery field or container. A
2- to 3-inch mulch will reduce temperature
fluctuations and conserve water in the root zone.
Fertilization. Due to heavy leaching of nutrients
from sandy soils, frequent and light applications are
recommended. For example, 1/2 pound of 12-4-8 or
15-5-15 should be applied per 100 square feet of
planting area four times a year. Applications are
recommended: (1) before spring growth begins, (2)
after the first growth flush, (3) midsummer, and (4)
early winter after the danger of late growth has
passed. Late summer fertilization may cause tender
growth which may be injured by early cold periods.
Water the plants before and after fertilizer
applications.
Chlorotic plants are common in soils with high
pH. This occurs because many of the micronutrients
like iron, manganese and zinc are tied up in alkaline
soils. Nutrient sprays applied to the foliage, or
micronutrient mixture applied to the soil may correct
Camellias in Florida
4
the problem temporarily, however, long lasting
correction will involve lowering the soil pH.
Watering. Irrigation may be necessary for
optimum plant growth during extended dry periods.
Enough water should be applied every 10 days to 2
weeks during dry periods to wet the soil to a depth of
14 to 18 inches. This watering schedule encourages a
deeper root system than frequent, shallow watering.
Pruning. Camellias should require little pruning
if they are properly used in the landscape. Necessary
pruning should be done in late winter or very early
spring. Prune by removing undesirable branches to
retain a natural shape and branching habit. Shearing
should be avoided because it will result in a dense
layer of foliage that blocks light from the interior
branches. Shearing also destroys the natural plant
form.
Propagation. Seedage, cuttings and grafting are
common methods of propagating camellias. Seed
propagation results in tremendous seedling variation
with a high percentage of undesirable seedlings. Seed
should be collected as soon as they are ripe (July to
September) and placed in flats or pots. Germination
can be expected in 2 to 4 months if the seed coat is
broken or scarified before sown.
Cuttings are the most popular means of
propagating camellias. This method insures plants
that are true to the characteristics of the parent plant.
Cuttings are usually taken in April or May from
hardened spring growth.
Grafting is used to propagate varieties that have a
weak root system. Grafting also permits the
combination of plants with compatable and
complimenting characteristics. For example, one
plant has desirable flower color, but the root system
is susceptible to root rot. Another plant has an
undesirable flower, but a strong, vigorous root
system. Grafting permits the union of the desired top
(scion) with the desired root system (root stock) to
yield a superior plant.
Pests
Insects and Arthropods. Scale, spider mites,
aphids, thrips and cutworms are among the most
important pests of camellias. Scale generally feed on
the underside of leaves and may not be noticed until
large populations have developed. The three common
scale are tea scale, Florida red scale, and camellia
scale.
Mature scale in large numbers are difficult to
control. Frequent inspections will prevent population
build up and allow control of the young scale with a
recommended insecticide.
Spider mites are tiny pests generally found on the
underside of leaves. The tops of infested leaves soon
display a rusty or reddish speckling of the green
surface. Spider mite infestations usually appear
during hot, dry conditions and in areas of the
landscape with poor air circulation and little exposure
to rainfall.
Aphids live in colonies and injure camellias by
sucking juices from young leaves. Injured leaves curl
and become distorted. Aphids secrete a sticky
substance called honeydew which is an excellent
medium for sooty mold, a black fungus. Early
detection is important.
Cutworms live in the mulch and soil beneath the
camellias during the day and attack the new plant
growth at night. The application of a bait in late
afternoon will provide control.
Thrips are very small, slender insects that feed
on camellia flowers. Close examination is necessary
to find them. Their injury is revealed as distorted
flowers. Specific insecticide recommendations can be
obtained from your local county extension office.
Diseases. Diseases common to camellias in
Florida include dieback, leaf and bud gall, root rot
and leaf spots. Dieback is most common during the
spring months, although it does occur during other
periods. It is characterized by wilt and sudden death
of new twigs. Older plant parts can also be infected
but usually die more slowly. The leaves
characteristically remain on the branches for
considerable lengths of time after they die.
The best control of dieback is sanitation. The
fungus causing this problem is inside the stem and is
not satisfactorily controlled by fungicides. Diseased
Camellias in Florida
branches should be removed about six inches below
the lowest visible symptoms of disease. Pruning tools
must be sterilized after each cut with an antiseptic
like 10% chlorox solution. Removed branches should
be destroyed.
Leaf and bud galls appear as thickened and
enlarged leaves or buds during the cool spring
months. One or several leaves on a single shoot may
be affected. Control can be accomplished in the home
garden by simply pinching off and destroying infected
leaves. Disease activity usually stops with the advent
of warm weather.
Camellias are occasionally attacked by root rot.
The entire plant or a section of the plant will
gradually become weak and die. There is no control
of this disease once the plant has been attacked.
Infected plants should be removed and destroyed.
Since the disease is soil borne, soil treatments are
necessary before replanting.
Leaf spots are quite common on Camellias.
These spots vary in size and shape depending upon
the species of the fungi causing the problem. Leaf
spots do little damage and usually only attack leaves
injured by another means. Attention should be given
to improve general cultural practices if leaf spots
appear.
Fungicide recommendations can be obtained
from your local county extension office.
5
Camellias in Florida
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Table 1. Camellias for Florida.
Variety
Flower Color
Season of
Flower
Flower Size and
Form
Plant Form
Growth
Rate
Comments
Alba Plen
White
Early
Medium, formal
double
Bushy
Slow
Adapted to S.
Florida
Betty Sheffield
White blotched
red and pink
Midseason
Medium to large,
semi-double
Compact
Medium
Waved petals
Betty Sheffield
Blush
Light pink and
deep pink
marks
Midseason
Medium to large,
semi-double
Compact
Medium
Sport of Betty
Sheffield
Betty Sheffield
Supreme
White with deep
pink border
Midseason
Medium to large,
semi-double
Compact
Medium
Sport of Betty
Sheffield
Charlie Bettes
White with yellow
stamens
Early
Very large,
semi-double
Compact
Vigorous
--
Clark Hubbs
Dark red
Midseason
Large, loose peony
Compact,
upright
Vigorous
Brilliant flower
Daikagura
Rose pink
splotched white
Early
Medium to large,
peony
Compact
Slow
--
Debutante
Light pink
Early to
midseason
Medium, full peony
Upright
Vigorous
Adapted to S.
Florida
Doris Ellis
Blush pink
Early
Medium, formal
double
Upright
Vigorous
Flower with darker
pink outer petals
& coral rose center
Ecclefield
White
Midseason
Large to very
large, semi-double
Compact
Vigorous
--
Elegans Splender
Light pink, edged
white
Early to
midseason
Large to very
large, anemone
Spreading
Slow
Deep petal
serrations
Elegans Supreme
Rose pink
Early to
midseason
Large to very
large, anemone
Spreading
Slow
Sport of Elegans
Gigantea
Red marbled
white
Midseason
Open
Vigorous
Very large flowers
Kramer's
Supreme
Turkey red
Midseason
Large,
semi-double
anemone to peony
Large to very
large, full peony
Compact,
upright
Vigorous
--
Camellia japonica
Camellias in Florida
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Table 1. Camellias for Florida.
Variety
Flower Color
Season of
Flower
Flower Size and
Form
Plant Form
Growth
Rate
Comments
Lady Clare
Deep pink
Early to
midseason
Large
semi-double
Bushy
Vigorous
Flowers fall soon
after opening
Mathotiana
Rubra
Crimson
Mid to late
season
Large to very
large; rose to
formal double
Compact,
upright
Vigorous
Same as
Mathotiana
Mathotiana
Supreme
Crimson
Mid to late
season
Very large,
semi-double
Compact,
upright
Vigorous
Irregular petals
interspersed with
stamens
Mine-No-Yuki
Pink, edged
white
Midseason
Medium, single
Compact
Slow
Darker pink
stripes on sides of
petals, often listed
as Sasanqua
Mrs Hooper
Connell
White
Early
Medium, peony
Bushy
Slow
Sport of Alba
Plena
Pink Perfection
Shell pink
Early to
midseason
Small, formal
double
Upright
Vigorous
Older variety
Pirates Gold
Dark red
Mid to late
season
Large, peony
semi-double
Spreading
Medium
--
Professor C.S.
Sargent
Dark red
Midseason
Medium, full
peony
Compact,
upright
Vigorous
Withstands direct
sun, good
understock
Red Giant
Red
Midseason
Large, loose
peony
Upright
Medium
Adapted to S.
Florida,
withstands direct
sun
Rena Swick
Bright pink,
veined darker
Midseason
Large,
semi-double
Upright
Medium
Heavy textured
petals stand
apart
Rena Swick
Variegated
Bright pink and
white
Midseason
Large,
semi-double
Upright
Medium
Variegated Rena
Swick
Rosea Superba
Rose pink
Mid to late
season
Large to very
large, rose to
formal double
Compact
Vigorous
Sport of
Mathotiana
Tom Cat
Light rose pink
Mid to late
season
Large,
semi-double
Open,
upright
Medium
Fluted petals
Tom Cat
Variegrated
Light rose pink,
blotched pink
Mid to late
season
Large,
semi-double
Open,
upright
Medium
Variegated form
of Tom Cat
Tomorrow
Strawberry red
Early to
midseason
Large to very
large,
semi-double
Open,
slightly
pendulous
Vigorous
Irregular petals
Camellias in Florida
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Table 1. Camellias for Florida.
Variety
Flower Color
Season of
Flower
Flower Size and
Form
Plant Form
Growth
Rate
Comments
Tomorrow
Variegrated
Strawberry red,
blotched white
Early to
midseason
Large to very
large,
semi-double
Open,
slightly
pendulous
Vigorous
Variegated
Tomorrow
Victory White
White
Midseason
Medium,
semi-double to
loose peony
Open,
upright
Vigorous
--
Ville de Nantes
Red blotched
white
Mid to late
season
Medium to large,
semi-double
Upright
Slow
Subject to
dieback
Francie L.
Rose pink
Midseason
Very large,
semi-double
Upright
Vigorous
Irregular, upright
waxy petals
Lasca Beauty
Soft pink
Midseason
Very large,
semi-double
Open, upright
Vigorous
Heavy textured,
thick petals
Mouchang
Salmon pink
Midseason
Very large, single
to semi-double
Upright
Vigorous
--
Valentine Day
Salmon pink
Midseason
Large to very
large, formal
double
Upright
Vigorous
Flower with
rosebud center
Daydream
White edged
rose pink
Early
Large, single
Compact,
upright
Medium
Good understock
for grafting
Grandiflora Alba
White
Early
Very large, single
Compact,
upright
Medium
--
Jean May
Shell pink
Early
Large, double
Compact,
upright
Slow
--
Setsugekka
White
Early
Large,
semi-double
Large, upright
Vigorous
Good understock
for grafting
Dream Boat
Bright pink with
lavender cast
Midseason
Large, formal
double
Open, upright
Medium
Flower with
curved petals
Julia Hamiter
Blush pink to
white
Midseason
Medium,
semi-double
Compact
Medium
--
Camellia reticulata
Camellia sasanqua
Hybrids