Download Full Sun Color: Red Abelia x Grandiflora

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Exposure: Full Sun
Color: Red
♥ Abelia x Grandiflora ‘Rose Creek’
♥ Astible ‘Montgomery’
♥ Berberis Thunbergii ‘Rosy Glow’ (Barberry)
♥ Chrysanthemum (Hardy Mum)
♥ Cleyera Japonica (Sakaki)
♥ Cotoneaster Dammeri ‘Coral Beauty’
♥ Digitalis Mertonensis (Strawberry Foxglove)
♥ Fragaria ‘Lipstick’ (Ornamental Strawberry)
♥ John Creech Sedum (Stonecrop)
♥ Lagerstroemia Indica ‘Cherry’ (Dwarf Crape Myrtle)
♥ Lagerstroemia Indica x Faueri ‘Arapaho’ (Crape Myrtle)
♥ Myrica Pensylvanica (Northern Bayberry)
♥ Paeonia ‘Felix Crousse’ (Peony)
♥ Rosa ‘Meigalpio’ (Red Drift Rose)
♥ Rosa ‘Radtko’ (Double Knock Out Rose)
♥ Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary)
♥ Sedum Spurium ‘Red Carpet ‘
♥ Thuja Occidentalis Arborvitae ‘Emerald’
♥ Thymus Serpyllum ‘Elfin’ (Elfin or Creeping Thyme)
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Abelia x Grandiflora ‘Rose Creek’
• Evergreen bush
• Morning sun, afternoon shade in moist, well-drained average soil
• Grows to 2’- 3’ tall and 3’ – 4’ wide
Watering
• Water when the top two inches of soil are dry
Pruning
• Pinch off blossom clusters when they fade. Prune occasionally throughout the
summer to control spread and wandering stems. Occasional tip pruning
(simply cut approximately 1 inch off of each stem) encourages blooming until
fall frost. (avoid shearing)
• Remove dead wood and damaged stems from your abelia whenever you
notice them. Snip the stems at ground level if the entire stem is dead. If only
part of a stem is affected, make the cut below the damage and just above a
lateral branch or bud.
• Prune abelia for general maintenance in late winter or early spring. Abelia
blossoms on new wood, so avoid pruning after spring growth begins.
• Prune abelia to maintain size and shape beginning in its third growing
season. Select the three longest, thickest interior stems and snip them off near
ground level. Continue pruning stems selected in a random, natural-looking
pattern until you have removed up to one-third of the plant. To the extent
possible, make the cuts on the interior of the shrub so that the pruning is not
readily obvious.
• Rehabilitate a badly overgrown abelia with drastic pruning if the alternative
is removing the shrub. Cut all stems to the ground in late winter before new
spring growth begins. Abelia will generally accept severe pruning and regain
its normal height within several years.
Fertilizing
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•
Feed once a year at the beginning of the growing season with a slow release
fertilizer.
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Astible ‘Montgomery’
• Perennial
• Full to part shade
• Grows 20” - 24” tall and 18” – 23” wide
Watering
• Keep moist, but well-drained
Pruning
• Remove old foliage in the spring before new leaves emerge.
Fertilizing
• Fertilize in April and June with a general-purpose fertilizer.
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Berberis Thunbergii ‘Rosy Glow’ (Barberry)
• Deciduous bush
• Full sun to mostly sun
• Grows to 4’ – 5’ tall, 3’ - 4’ wide
Watering
• Moderate
Pruning
• Not required except to remove dead or damaged branches
• Prune immediately after flowering or in late winter
Fertilizing
• Feed with either water soluble (Miracle Gro, or equivalent), or granular all
purpose tree & shrub fertilizer for regular maintenance type feedings. Other
granular types with 6-12-12, or 10-10-10 ratio is acceptable. Best to begin a
regular scheduled feeding / fertilizing schedule in very early spring (upon
discovering new bud break), and to continue regular weekly feedings
through the entire spring season, up until early summer
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Chrysanthemum (Hardy Mum)
• Perennial
• Full sun
• Grows 12” – 18” tall, 18” – 24” wide
Watering
• Moderate
Pruning
• Pinching chrysanthemums yields compact, bushy plants with more blooms.
"Pinching" simply means removing the tips of new growth, thereby
stimulating the chrysanthemums to send out side-shoots. Start in the spring
when the new growth has reached 4-6" in length. Thereafter, every 2-3 weeks,
pinch the center out of any more growth when it reaches 6". But stop
pinching chrysanthemums around the beginning of summer, or else bud
formation won't occur soon enough to ensure flowering.
Fertilizing
• Annuals and perennials may be fertilized using: 1.water-soluble, quick
release fertilizers; 2. temperature controlled slow-release fertilizers; or 3.
organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion. Water soluble fertilizers are
generally used every two weeks during the growing season or per label
instructions. Controlled, slow-release fertilizers are worked into the soil
usually only once during the growing season or per label directions. For
organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, follow label directions.
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Cleyera Japonica (Sakaki)
• Evergreen bush
• Sheltered in full sun to light shade in moist, well-drained, acidic, fertile soil
• Subject to frost damage
• Keep mulch 10” away from trunk/stem
• Grows fairly slowly to 8’ – 12” tall and 6’ – 8’ wide
• In the Shinto religion this tree is particularly sacred and given the name
sakaki meaning “god tree.” The dark green boughs are thought to impart a
sense of abundance and longevity. They are used in Japan as part of a Shinto
(native religion of Japan) display in which special vases are placed on either
side of a shrine.
Watering
• Regular, medium watering
Pruning
• Prune in Spring to remove "shoot growth," which appears in the upper part
or on the outer fringes of the plant. Cut these stems well back into the plant
where they will put out new buds to cover cutting wounds. This gives the
shrub a fuller, bushier form.
• If needed, it will stand a hard pruning.
Fertilizing
• Every 2-3 years, fertilize in early spring or beginning of autumn. A good
quantity of organic fertilizer should be mixed to the soil at the foot of the stem
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Cotoneaster Dammeri ‘Coral Beauty’
• Evergreen bush
• Full sun
• Grows 2’ tall by 6’ wide
Watering
• Only occasional watering needed during extensive dry spells.
Pruning
• Remove damaged and dead growth in spring
• Cut stems to control it to the size and shape you desire. Since this plant
blooms on old wood, as long as you prune it right after flowering, there is no
special technique. Just snip it where you want.
Fertilizing
• Feed with a general-purpose fertilizer before new growth begins in spring.
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Digitalis Mertonensis (Strawberry Foxglove)
• Described as a perennial, it is more accurate to call it a biennial or short-lived
perennial.
• Full sun to part shade
• Grows 1’ – 3’ tall and wide
Watering
• Medium moisture; medium to wet. Water one to two times a week during
dry periods.
Pruning
• If the flowering stalk is cut down after blooms have faded, it may rebloom in
the fall. When a few flower stalks are left, the plant self-seeds. Leave stalks to
dry to self-seed in fall.
Fertilizing
• Add fertilizer once a month to allow the flowers to grow larger.
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Fragaria ‘Lipstick’ (Ornamental Strawberry)
• Evergreen ground cover
• Full sun to part shade
• Grows 6” – 8” tall,” 15” – 20” wide
Watering
• Needs regular watering - weekly, or more often in extreme heat.
Pruning
• Prune in spring. Can be mowed if foliage needs rejuvenating.
Fertilizing
• Fertilize with a multi- purpose fertilizer.
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John Creech Sedum (Stonecrop)
• Semi-evergreen ground cover
• Full sun to light shade
• Grows 3" – 4”, spreads 12” – 15”
• It should be sited in average to poor soil that is well drained. Plants grown in
rich soil tend to be lanky and open.
Watering
• Low to average water needs.
Pruning
• Winter damaged foliage can be cut back in early spring for a flush of new
growth.
Fertilizing
• Feed with a general-purpose fertilizer.
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Lagerstroemia Indica ‘Cherry’ (Dwarf Crape Myrtle)
• Deciduous bush
• Full sun to part shade
• Grows 3’ – 4’ tall and wide
Watering
• Average to low water needs after established
Pruning
• Does not require pruning. If you do prune, do so in late winter before new
growth starts to emerge. Cut away dead or broken branches or stray ones. A
hard pruning to rejuvenate an old plant that has become haggard can be done
in late winter before new growth emerges
Fertilizing
• Early spring with a well-balanced shrub & tree type fertilizer after new
growth begins to emerge
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Lagerstroemia Indica x Faueri ‘Arapaho’ (Crape Myrtle)
• Deciduous tree
• Full sun to mostly sun
• Grows 20’ tall and 10’ wide
Watering
• Average to low water needs after established
Pruning
• Does not require pruning. If you do prune, do so in late winter before new
growth starts to emerge.
• Cut away dead or broken branches or stray ones.
• A hard pruning to rejuvenate an old plant that has become haggard can be
done in late winter before new growth emerges
Fertilizing
• Early spring with a well-balanced shrub & tree type fertilizer after new
growth begins to emerge
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Myrica Pensylvanica (Northern Bayberry)
• Semi-evergreen bush
• Full sun to part Sun
• Grows 6’ – 12 ‘ tall and 6’ – 10’ wide
Watering
• Water when normal rainfall does not provide the preferred 1 inch of moisture
most plants prefer. Average water is needed during the growing season, but
take care not to overwater. Drought tolerant.
Pruning
• Prune in spring and fall to maintain its shape and size.
• Cut back any stray branches
• Heading the top back two times each year eliminates the tall, lanky branches
and reduces the tendency for branches to droop.
• The reasons for pruning are to remove dead or dying branches, to initiate
new growth, and to maintain shape or control size.
• Remove one of the heavy canes at the ground level of the plant. This should
be done in March or April. It will initiate new growth that will lead to a
denser shrub.
Fertilizing
• Feed with a general-purpose fertilizer before new growth begins in spring.
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Paeonia ‘Felix Crousse’ (Peony)
• Perennial, dies to the ground in the fall
• Full sun to partial shade
• Growth to 2’ - 4’ and support is often required as flower heads are too heavy
for stems
Watering
• Peonies are very drought tolerant, especially once established.
• Mulching around the plants helps maintain moisture. Moisture is particularly
important in early spring when the flower buds are expanding.
Fertilizing
• If the plant is thriving and the soil is basically fertile, peonies do not need
regular applications of fertilizers.
• It is occasionally beneficial to scratch in some granular fertilizer around the
plant in the spring. A general fertilizer labeled for use on perennials is
appropriate.
Pruning
• When cutting flowers, try to cut as few leaves as possible. These leaves are
essential to make its food reserves.
• A rule of thumb is to not cut flowers from plants less than three years old and
that a mature plant of five years should be left with about 50% of its flowers.
When cutting the flowers take care to ensure that at least some leaf is left on
the remaining cut stem.
• At the end of each growing season the foliage should be removed from the
peony growing area. The stems of peonies should be cut down to within an
inch or so of the soil level. The foliage of peonies can harbor fungal diseases
and the best method to control these diseases is good fall clean up.
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Rosa ‘Meigalpio’ (Red Drift Rose)
• Deciduous bush
• Full sun (at least 6 hours a day), well drained soil
• Grows to 2-3' wide x 1 1/2' tall
Watering
• Light watering only, avoid getting water on foliage
Pruning
• Prune back to about 6" in early spring (after the last hard frost) for best
performance.
• Cut at a 45 degree angle just above a bud on the cane. The direction the bud is
facing is the direction in which the bush will grow.
• Regular deadheading encourages re-blooming and helps maintain a tidy
appearance but isn't necessary. To deadhead, prune just above the first set of
5 leaflets.
Fertilizing
• Either water soluble (Miracle Gro, or equivalent), or granular fertilizers
(Holly Tone is excellent) with a 6-12-12, or 10-10-10 ratio are also acceptable.
• Best to fertilize in early spring, and again in mid fall - avoid feeding standard
chemical fertilizers during hot summer months
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Rosa ‘Radtko’ (Double Knock Out Rose)
• Deciduous bush
• Full sun to partial sun
• Grows to 3’– 4’ tall, 2’-3’ wide
Watering
• Water whenever rainfall doesn't provide at least 2 inches of water per week.
• Direct water from a hose or watering can at the base of the rose bush rather
than spraying it from above to prevent rust (a fungal disease).
Pruning
• Prune back about 1/3 of height in late February/early March. You can also
head back the bushes after a big bloom to control the size or shape at any time
during growing season.
• It is good to remove dead or unhealthy looking areas of the plant at any time.
• Make cuts at a 45 degree angle just above a bud on the cane. The direction the
bud is facing is the direction in which the bush will grow.
• Every 2-3 years or when needed, you can remove several of the older (darker,
thicker) canes to leave 3-5 of the best canes
• When deciding which canes to remove, it is best to remove the inner limbs as
well as any that cross. By leaving the outer parts of the bush this will allow
better light and airflow as the plant fills in throughout the year.
• Although unnecessary, regular deadheading encourages re-blooming and
helps maintain a tidy appearance. To deadhead, prune just above the first set
of 5 leaflets.
Fertilizing
• Fertilize in the early spring and then monthly until about a month before the
first frost date of fall. Follow the instructions on the fertilizer package; most
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granular fertilizers specify scratching 1/2 cup into the soil around the base of
the rose bush.
Preparing for Winter
• Clean up fallen leaves, blossoms and mulch surrounding the rose bush in the
late fall to prevent harboring and wintering-over any disease or insect
predators.
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Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary)
• Tender perennial
• Sun to partial sun, sheltered
• Grows to 5’
Watering
• Let the garden soil dry out in between waterings. Don't over water or you
may harm the roots.
Pruning
• Be sure to pinch off the terminal bud (the main shoot’s top) and the tips of the
plant’s shoots, to encourage the y plant to branch out.
• Prune once a year, once the flowers have faded.
Fertilizing
• If your soil is rich in organic matter, you should never need to fertilize. If you
need to improve the soil, layer compost three to four inches around the base
of the plant.
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Sedum Spurium ‘Red Carpet ‘
• Semi-evergreen ground cover
• Full sun to light shade
• Grows 2" – 4”, spreads over 10”
• It should be sited in average to poor soil that is well drained. Plants grown in
rich soil tend to be lanky and open.
Watering
• Low to average water needs.
Pruning
• Winter damaged foliage can be cut back in early spring for a flush of new
growth.
Fertilizing
• Feed once a year with a slow release fertilizer.
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Thuja Occidentalis Arborvitae ‘Emerald’
• Evergreen tree
• Full sun to part shade
• Grows 15’ tall, 3’ – 4’ wide
Watering
• Needs regular watering - weekly, or more often in extreme heat.
• Water deeply in hot and dry weather and mulch the root zone.
Pruning
• Prune in early spring before onset of new growth. Keep trained to a single
leader to avoid ice and snow damage.
Fertilizing
• Fertilize with Holly-Tone
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Thymus Serpyllum ‘Elfin’ (Elfin or Creeping Thyme)
• Evergreen ground cover
• Full sun
• Grows 1” – 2” tall, 4” – 8” wide
Watering
• Soil that is too moisture retentive will promote root rots, which can be fatal to
thymes. Like most Mediterranean herbs, they like tough conditions - full sun,
lean, well-draining soil and minimal watering once established.
Fertilizing
• Thyme doesn't require fertilizer or pruning, especially if you are mulching.