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POISON DART FROGS
 Poison Dart Frogs are Frogs of the Dendrobatid group.
 Different species come in a wide array of colors and patterns. One of the most
colorful animals in captivity.
 Depending on species they can range from only ½ inch in length up to 2 ½ inches.
 Typically most will live 4-8 years but some species may live up to 20 years in
captivity.
 In captivity, Dart Frogs are completely non-poisonous. In the wild they derive their
toxins from the insects that they eat.
 Dart Frogs are diurnal, meaning they are active during the day time. They make a
great display species because they are very active and will hang out in the open.
Diet
In captivity there is a wide range of insects available as food for Dart Frogs, with
the main food source being fruit flies. Spring tails and isopods are another great
choice. As well as being a source of food, spring tails and isopods also help with
waste management. They eat the waste of the frog and convert it into fresh soil. In
a naturalistic set-up they are very important for maintaining a healthy ecosystem.
Fruit flies should be dusted with Repashy Calcium Plus every feeding and a multi
vitamin supplement once a week. A small dish of mashed fruit can be kept inside
the enclosure. This will attract the flies and create a feeding ground for your frogs.
Dart Frogs have a very fast metabolism and at least some fruit flies should always
be visible in the cage, but the cage should never be swarming with flies either.
When feeding, be cautious to not get excess calcium or vitamin powder in the
enclosure, as this can cause molding. Never feed any insects that are found
outside, they may contain diseases or may even be toxic.
DART FROG CHECKLIST
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Cage
Screen Top
Waterfall
Fruit Flies
Repashy Calcium Plus
Hiding Places
Décor / Plants
Misting System or Sprayer
Light Fixture
Compact Fluorescent Bulb
Substrates
Thermometer
Hygrometer
Transport container
Housing
Dart Frogs do best in a naturalistic live planted vivarium. The vivarium should be
set up with multiple substrate layers. The bottom should consist of ‘bio balls’ ‘bio
drain’ or any other like substrate. On top of this a mesh screen should be used.
This allows a place for water to drain to ensure the substrate is not over saturated.
On top of this should be a layer of a soil based substrate topped with a thick layer of sphagnum moss. The vivarium
should also have some sort of water feature like a custom made waterfall or shallow pond. Never use any kind of pre
fabricated waterfall intended for larger reptiles. Dart frogs are small and may climb inside and get stuck. Dart frogs should
always be maintained at very high humidity levels (80% - 100%). A Dart frog if kept too dry can dehydrate in less than an
hour. The enclosure should be misted daily or have a misting system set up to ensure high humidity is consistent,
however the substrate should never be allowed to become swampy. The enclosure should always be kept in the low to
mid 70’s. A small, low wattage, compact fluorescent bulb should be used for plant growth and to provide a proper light
cycle for the frogs.
Handling & Care
While Dart frogs are not poisonous in captivity, they should never be handled. Like any amphibian they absorb through
their skin and will soak up anything that is on your hands, this could potentially be fatal. As well your hands will draw
moisture from their skin drying them out, which can damage their sensitive skin.
In a naturalistic set-up the cage will maintain itself and only the glass will need to be wiped down. In a non-naturalistic
enclosure, bedding should be thrown away and the entire cage and decorations wiped clean once every few months.
Always wash your hands with anti-bacterial soap after handling any animal.
Same species Dart frogs can be housed together but different species should be housed separately. Once Dart frogs go
through sexual maturity, different species will fight for territory, which may be fatal for the frogs. It is best to keep only
same species together.
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