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Iida Kojonen Supervisor: Katariina Yliheikkilä Investigating how well organic dye molecules attach to natural and synthetic fibers, and last on them Introduction Natural dyes have been in use for a long period of time, dating all the way back to ancient times. They can be classified into plant-, mushroom-, mineral-, and animalbased dyes depending on where they are obtained from. The dye that was used for this investigation was obtained from the berries of Aronia mitschurinii, which contains dye molecules called anthocyanins. Anthocyanins are water soluble, and the colors that they produce are very pH-dependent. Natural fibers can be classified into vegetable fibers, animal fibers, and mineral fibers. On top of this there are many synthetic, or man-made fibers. The fibers that were used for this investigation are: wool, cotton, linen, and polyester. That is three natural fibers and one synthetic fiber. Wool is a protein fiber (animal fiber), and cotton and linen are cellulose-based fibers (vegetable fibers). The purpose of this investigation is to determine how well natural dyes work in dyeing natural and synthetic fibers. Method All the fabrics were pre-treated before dyeing. Alum was used for the pretreatment of wool, and tannin and alum were used for the pre-treatment of cotton, linen, and polyester. The dye solution was obtained from the berries by boiling them in a small amount of water, and then removing the remains of the berries. The fabrics were dyed by boiling them in the dye solution (for wool not bringing the temperature of the dye solution to a boiling point). After dyeing all the fabrics were washed four times to see the final color of the fabrics. Figure 1. Dye solution absorption spectra for all fabrics. Results The dye attached to all of the fabrics well during dyeing and produced vibrant colors. The color that was obtained was a purplish pink color. However, the color does not last on either the natural nor synthetic fibers. After washing the colors of cotton, linen, and polyester were back to almost the same color they were before dyeing, with a slight wash of grey, and the color of wool had changed completely from what it was after dyeing. Instead of fading like all of the other fabrics, the color of wool changed to a greenish grey color. Figure 3. The setup for the washing of fabrics. Figure 2. The color of cotton before and after dyeing. Discussion From the spectrophotometric analysis of the dye solutions it can be seen that there are absorption peaks in the purple and green areas of the spectrum, which means that the dye solutions absorbed both green and purple. This explains why the final color of wool turned out to be green. Along with this, the colors produced by anthocyanins are very pH-dependent, and produce red/blue colors in acidic environments and greenish colors in alkaline environments. The washing liquid is alkaline, so it could have altered the color on the fabric. Figure 4. The berries of Aronia mitschurinii.