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MODULE TWO - MINUS 10 PEEL
MINUS 10 PROTOCOL
Bring your peels to the next level. The 6 Step Minus 10 Medical Peel uses safe and effective
solutions delivering pro-youth results - targeting deep wrinkles and pigmentation to give
your patients the results they are looking for.
STEP 1: CLEANSE
Lactic Pads
Work in for several minutes. Rinse with water and gauze. Pat skin dry.
STEP 2: DE-FAT
Alpha/Beta Solution
Saturate gauze; apply with firm pressure. Let remain on skin.
STEP 3: PREP
Acid Paste
Apply thin layer with brush. Leave on for 1-3 minutes. Rinse with water and gauze. Pat skin
dry.
STEP 4: DE-PIGMENT
Melanin Lift Acid
Saturate gauze; apply with firm pressure. Let remain on skin.
STEP 5: PEEL
Multi Acid Complex
Apply 1 layer with brush. Let process for several
minutes. Apply 2nd layer where no frosting occurs and let remain on skin for 5 minutes. Neutralize with club soda.
STEP 6: RETINOL BOOST
Peptide A Compound
Apply evenly to skin. Let remain on skin overnight.
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MODULE TWO - PRODUCT INFORMATION
CLEANSE
LACTIC PADS
Potent cleansing pads to begin epidermal desquamation through the incorporation of lactic
acid and pineapple fruit enzymes.
FOCUS INGREDIENTS
LACTIC ACID (L) a chirally correct AHA that aids in the prepping process
by weakening the bond between corneocytes at the base of the stratum
corneum and dissolves desmosomes for better acid penetration. Lactic
acid causes an increase in glycosoaminoglycans natural moisturizers),
ceramides (epidermal barrier lipids), improves water barrier properties
and has the same keratolytic effect as glycolic acid.
ANANAS SATIVIS (PINEAPPLE) FRUIT EXTRACT a digestive enzyme to aid in the desmosome breakdown; dissolves cysteine protease and has anti-inflammatory properties.
COMPOSITION
Aqua (Water), PEG-50 Shea Butter, TEA-Lauryl Sulfate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate,
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Glycerin, Glycol Distearate, Lactic Acid (L), Ananas Sativus
(Pineapple) Fruit Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Laureth-4
MODULE TWO - PRODUCT INFORMATION
DE-FAT
ALPHA/BETA SOLUTION
A de-fatting agent to use before skin peel procedure.
FOCUS INGREDIENTS
Glycolic Acid Most potent AHA in it’s capabilities for rapid penetration and desquamation.
Specifically, by dissolving the desmosome linkages causing bursts in exfoliation. This acid has
a much smaller molecular structure allowing for deeper penetration of desmosome breakdown and collagen synthesis.
Salicylic Acid A lipophilic acid that enables it to penetrate sebaceous
material in the hair follicle and exfoliates the pore. Salicylic acid has a
much stronger comedolytic effect than traditional AHA’s on the skin.
This acid also affects the arachidonic acid cascade, therefore enhancing
the anti-inflammatory properties, and can create a numbing effect on
the skin, similar to Aspirin. Keratolytic and lipid soluble acid.
COMPOSITION
Aqua (Water) , Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Alcohol, Glycolic Acid, Salicylic
Acid, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Origanum Majorana (Marjoram) Leaf Oil,
Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil
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MODULE TWO - PRODUCT INFORMATION
PREP
ACID PASTE
A multi-acid paste that induces cell proliferation to create a superficial exfoliation to bring
about cellular renewal utilizing next generation flower acids. Rhonda Allison’s acid compound uses potent azelaic acid, mandelic acid, phytic and pyruvic acids to continue preparing the skin for the Multi Acid Rx. This unique formulation helps increase cellular metabolism,
and cellular proliferation, while inhibiting tyrosinase activity, and preventing the formation of
damaging radicals that follow cell disruption due to chemical exfoliation.
FOCUS INGREDIENTS
AZELAIC ACID a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid, shown to be as effective as hydroquinone, with less irritation, this anti-keratinizing agent displays antiproliferative cytostatic
effects on keratinocytes.
MANDELIC ACID (L) a chirally correct acid derived from almonds, used for the treatment of
photo-aging and irregular pigmentation. This acid has a similar structure to certain antibiotics, preventing bacterial infections after laser resurfacing. A second generation AHA with a
larger molecular weight, making it more tolerable for more skin types.
PYRUVIC ACID an alpha-keto acid, which metabolizes rapidly and is part of the Krebs cycle
of respiration. This acid increases collagen, elastin, and dermal glycoprotein synthesis while
reducing corneocytes.
PHYTIC ACID a natural plant antioxidant providing a powerful chelating effect on iron and
used in the treatment of pigmentation. This acid provides acidity to acid formulations while
preventing formation of damaging radicals. Phytic Acid blocks the entrance of iron and copper in the formation of melanin.
HIBISCUS FLOWER EXTRACT a second generation AHA, this extract
is characterized by high levels of citric acid and pyruvic acid. This acid
increases cell proliferation by 14% in comparison to other AHA’s, exhibits
cutaneous tolerance, and stimulates more glycosaminoglycans (GAGs)
than lactic acid.
COMPOSITION
Aqua (Water), Azelaic Acid, Mandelic Acid (L), Pyruvic Acid, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Phytic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Alcohol, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit
Oil, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet
Almond) Oil, Cymbopogon Martini (Palmarosa) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil,
Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Oil, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Allantoin, Aloe Barbadensis
Leaf Juice Powder, Tocotrienols, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Tocopherol (D-Alpha), Citric
Acid, Potassium Sorbate
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MODULE TWO - PRODUCT INFORMATION
DE-PIGMENT
MELANIN LIFT ACID
Rhonda Allison’s Lightening Acid inhibits tyrosinase activity while reducing the risk of post
inflammatory hyperpigmentation, commonly associated with the use of acids.
FOCUS INGREDIENTS
Azelaic Acid a naturally occurring 9-carbon dicarboxylic acid obtained from cultures of pityrosporum ovale that reversibly inhibits tyrosinase activity. Documented to be as effective as
hydroquinone without the erythema and inflammation associated with hydroquinone. It appears to have a specificity for abnormal melanocytes and is used to suppress the progression
of lentigo maligna melanoma.
Kojic Acid a hydrophilic fungal derivative obtained from Aspergillus and Penicillium species.
This ingredient is a chelation agent that blocks the formation of melanin by inhibiting the
enzyme, tyrosinase, by binding it to copper.
Alpha Arbutin is a naturally occurring form of hydroquinone, derived
from the Bearberry plant. Alpha Arbutin is split into glucose and hydroquinone with the sugar group attached to one of the alcohol groups.
It resembles the amino acid tyrosine enough to cause a dissimulation
to tyrosinase without affecting RNA expression. Alpha Arbutin is also
considered non-toxic to the melanocyte and can inhibit melanosome
maturity, making it an effective alternative to hydroquinone.
COMPOSITION
Alcohol Denat., Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Azelaic Acid, Glycerin, Kojic Acid,
Ascorbic Acid (L), Alcohol, Aqua (Water), Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract,
Alpha-Arbutin, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride
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MODULE TWO - PRODUCT INFORMATION
PEEL
MULTI ACID COMPLEX
A powerful acid formulation, Multi Acid Rx uses the compounds of Red Wine Vinegar and
p. Anisic Acid, blended with a balanced percentage of TCA to deliver noticeable pro-youth
results for your patients. Bringing about maximum proliferation while softening, hydrating
and providing antioxidant support, this unique formula tones, firms, reduces fine lines and
wrinkles, reduces pigmentation and improves overall skin texture for younger, healthier-looking skin.
FOCUS INGREDIENTS
RED WINE VINEGAR from the fermented juice of red grapes, red wine vinegar supplies
anti-inflammatory benefits, stimulates cellular proliferation and collagen synthesis. A high
concentration of resveratrol provides 30% more antioxidant support than Vitamin E & C. A
potent polyphenolic antioxidant, resveratrol works as a free radical scavenger and vasodilator, inhibiting proteases and blocks the deleterious effects from UV-B radiation for potent
anti-aging benefits.
During the compounding process red wine vinegar naturally ferments, producing acetic acid,
also known as ethanoic acid. Acetic Acid is a well-known cell proliferator with a mechanism
to assist in penetration of larger structured acids.
TRICHLOROACETIC ACID (TCA) a non-toxic, self-neutralizing formulation in an aqueous base that effectively breaks down keratinized cells and induces desquamation further than AHA; reduces
fine lines and wrinkles, improves texture, reduces pigmentation
and improves acne scaring.
TRICHLOROACETIC ACID MOLECULE
Peels usually performed with Trichloroacetic Acid affect the intra-epidermal layer with exfoliation occurring within 2-3 days after application, reducing larger wrinkles and precancerous
skin lesions due to deeper penetration.
p-ANISIC ACID a non-irritating, naturally occurring organic acid (100% from plant origin)
with a low acidity level which maintains the natural acidic level of the skin. p-Anisic Acid
provides increased desquamation and inhibits cell damage which decreases the cellular risks
associated with deep peels. With powerful antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and
antioxidant support, this acid is key in accelerated would healing.
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MODULE TWO - PRODUCT INFORMATION
PEEL CONT.
ANTIMICROBIAL EFFICACY TEST
Challenge Test with Natural O/W-emulsion stabilized with 0,7 % p-Anisic Acid (left) and with additional 0,2 % p-Anisic Acid added (right). Note
the strong effect on A. niger (red curve).
*Microbiological test performed in an independent external
and certified laboratory according to the Pharmacopoeia Europea.
Because p-Anisic Acid is an intrinsic property of organic acid, the acidity level is very low,
making it ideal for skin peel formulations where the natural acidic level of the skin can be
maintained for a longer time. The correlation between physiological pH and healthy skin has
been shown in many studies and there has been evidence that micro-organisms like Propionibacterium acne and Staphylococcus aureus and even viruses are significantly reduced by
organic acids when the normal pH on human skin is maintained1,2.
COMPOSITION
Alcohol Denat., Red Wine Vinegar, Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA), Dimethyl Isosorbide, p-Anisic
Acid
Literature:
1. Turner RB, et al., Efficacy of Organic Acids in Hand Cleansers for Prevention of Rhinovirus Infections, Antimicrobial Agents And Chemotherapy, 2004, p. 2595–2598 Vol. 48, No. 7
2. Schmidt-Wendtner MH, Korting HC, The pH of the Skin Surface and Its Impact on the Barrier Function, Skin Pharmacol Physiol ,
2006;19:296–302
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MODULE TWO - PRODUCT INFORMATION
RETINOL BOOST
PEPTIDE A COMPOUND
Rhonda Allison’s Peptide Complex stimulates the desquamation process, providing additional peeling support, improving smoothness, reducing fine lines and uneven pigmentation, providing clarity and radiance to the skin. With a stronger concentration of retinol and added
benefits of carnitine, Peptide Complex gives the skin a lift and accelerated cell proliferation.
This enhanced retinol combines a biomimetic tri-peptide (Perfection Peptide) complex encapsulated with liposomes for natural retinol exfoliation boosted by the power of peptide for
more toned, firmed, and younger looking skin.
FOCUS INGREDIENTS
Carnitine (L) a chirally correct beta hydroxyl acid and derivative of the amino acid lysine,
L-Carnitine exhibits excellent cell proliferation properties at low levels, accelerating the epidermal turnover rate. Carnitine also plays an important role in energy production by carrying
activated fatty acids (acyl-CoA) into the mitochondrial matrix for metabolism and ferrying
out intermediate compounds, preventing their accumulation.
In healthy skin, the stratum corneum is in constant regeneration and replaced by new cells
generated in the basal layer of the epidermis. When the equilibrium of the skin is altered,
dead cells tend to accumulate in the outer layers, reducing turnover rate and increasing renewal time.
The rate of proliferation is typically determined by the time that it takes
for skin treated with a fluorescing dye (dansyl chloride) to lose its ability to fluoresce. In-vivo determination of turnover time in which dansyl
chloride was applied to the forearms of human volunteers followed by
a topical treatment with either a placebo (cream vehicle) or a cream
containing 2% L-Carnitine (over a 28 day duration) clearly shows that
application of L-Carnitine does indeed accelerate cell proliferation. In
contrast to other exfoliating hydroxyl acids, which work best at pH 3.54.0, L-Carnitine enhances cell turnover at pH 6-7. This proves cell proliferation benefits at a pH more compatible with skin.
Retinol accelerates mitosis, increases enzyme activity, and normalizes keratinization, which
improves and normalizes the cell renewal process.
Retinol is considered a pro-drug that can be converted to retinoic acid by the skin (it will
be changed to all-trans retinoic acid within the keratinocytes and become active). All of the
natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A (also called all-trans retinol) are included in a
group known as retinoids.
With encapsulated properties that allow for more precise delivery to cells, the skin regenerates itself throughout its path. With many important biologic effects, retinoids help regulate
growth and differentiation of epithelial cells, diminish malignant cell growth, decrease inflammation, and enhance the immune system.
Topical retinoids promote the normalization of follicular epithelial desquamation and reduce
8
MODULE TWO - PRODUCT INFORMATION
RETINOL BOOST CONT.
cellular cohesion, promoting drainage of existing comedones and preventing the development of microcomedones.
The epidermis and dermis grow thicker and the skin becomes more elastic. This reduces
wrinkles and lines in number, area, length, and width. The skin becomes elastic, fresh and adequately supplied with moisture. It looks
clearer and has a healthy color.
Curcuma Longa (Tumeric) Root Extract rich in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, Curcuma Longa is a small perennial herb
native to India bearing many rhizomes on its root system which are
the source of its medicinal extract called Curcumin and culinary spice
called Tumeric.
RETINOL BINDING PROTEIN
Rich in iron and working as an antiviral, antifungal, and anti-bacterial, curcuma longa extract
also provides anti-inflammatory benefits and has been shown to have a wide range of therapeutic effects including protecting skin against free radical damage due to its strong antioxidant support.
Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate (Perfection Peptide) a biomimetic tripeptide
complex encapsulated into liposomes that stimulates the desquamation process providing a
brighter, smoother, and even-toned skin complexion.
In general, biomimetic peptides elicit specified cellular responses mediated by interactions
with peptides from extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins (the incorporation of cell-binding
peptides into biomaterials via chemical or physical modification).
In short, this biomimetic tripeptide, consisting of three active amino acids present in desmoglein, mimics some of the roles that an extracellular matrix plays in neural tissue, promoting cellular growth and mobilization, incorporating peptides to mediate material degradation
by specific protease enzymes and initiate cellular responses not present in a local native
tissue.
- Improves smoothness, clarity and radiance
- Reduces fine lines and uneven pigmentation
- Activates skin cell regeneration
For desquamation to be homogenous there needs to be degradation in the connections,
short protein sequences or CARs, between corneocytes that are formed by cell adhesion
proteins. The Perfection Peptide which contains CAR sequence competes with cell to cell
binding, promoting desquamation. In a controlled human study, the Perfection Peptide was
tested and found to reduce the epidermal turnover time to that of younger skin.
COMPOSITION
Aqua (Water), Carnitine (L), Retinol, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Gluconolactone, Ammonium
Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Alcohol Denat., Lecithin, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide,
Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
9