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GEF2610 Physical Oceanography Course content The physical structure and circulations of the oceans, and the physical processes influencing them. Learning outcomes The students shall have knowledge about the physical properties of ocean waters, understand concepts like stability and potential density, and be able to describe the energy exchange with the atmosphere. They shall know how the standard instruments are functioning and understand the meaning of observations presented in a T-S diagram. The students shall have a good overview of the general oceanic circulation, understand the driving forces and mechanisms behind the different types of circulation, and know where in the world oceans bottom water is formed and where upwelling occurs. • • • • • • • • • • Ocean dimensions and extensions Physical properties of ocean water Chemical components of ocean water Standard instruments Forces; Equation of Motion Energy exchange with the atmosphere Physical structure of the oceans General oceanic circulation Waves Tides Ocean dimensions and extensions • Names of the different oceans • Topography of the different oceans Sand waves Relative dimensions of atmosphere and oceans Physical properties of ocean waters • • • • • • • • • Temperature, salinity, density Compressibility Potential temperature and density Freezing point Specific heat (heat capacity) Latent heat of evaporation Latent heat of freezing Optical properties Acoustical properties Translational motion in gases Light in the sea Snell’s Law of Refraction 4 sin i sin j 3 Vertical attenuation E ( z ) E0 e K z Fig. 3.9 Optical pathways to an ocean color sensor (from Robinson, 1983). Fig. 3.10 Global chlorophyll concentration in mg/m3 for the ocean and Normalized Difference Vegetation Index (-1 to +1) for the land surface for Sept. 97 – Aug. 98. Sound in the sea Snell’s Law of Refraction sin i sin j vi vj Spherical attenuation 2 0 2 R c ( R R ) ( R ) 0 e R 0 Chemical composition of ocean water • • • • • Principal constituents Constant relative composition of seawater Gases in seawater (O2) Methods for determination of salinity Methods for determination of density Standard instruments • • • • • • • • Reversing thermometers Water samplers (e.g. NIO bottles) ST electronic bridges CTD sensors Irradiance meters Secchi disk Echo sounders Current meters Equation of Motion a b c F g T Simplified models •Hydrostatic equilibrium •Geostrophic current •Ekman spiral •Equilibrium tide Hydrostatic equilibrium – hydrostatic pressure 0bg h p (h) g ( z ) dz p (0) g h 0 Geostrophic current 0 b c g g v tan( ) f Ocean dynamic topography Tuva Ekman spiral – wind current 0cF Wind speed Equilibrium tide 0 b g T Energy exchange with the atmosphere • Kinetic energy (currents, waves) • Radiative energy (shortwave, longwave) • Heat exchange (latent heat of evaporation, latent heat of freezing, heat conduction) Budgets • • • • Heat budgets Volume budgets Salt budgets Knudsen’s Relations General oceanic circulation • Surface currents • Interaction between atmospheric wind and pressure systems and the major oceanic gyres • Estuarine circulation • Upwelling • El Niño (ENSO) • Thermohaline circulation • Vertical convection • Bottom and deep-water formation Polarfront Estuaries • • • • Estuaries Fjords Estuarine circulation Deep water exchange in fjords Front: brackish water / sea water Gåsøyrenna: T and S 04.04.2008 salinity 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 0 10 20 Depth 30 S-Gaasoy S-Gaasoy-feb T-Gaasoy 40 50 60 70 T-Gaasoy-feb Gåsøyrenna: Density 04.04.2008 Density - 1000 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 0 10 20 Depth 30 Gaasoy Gaasoy-feb 40 50 60 70 Global distribution of temperature, salinity, and density • Relationship between temperature, salinity and the large-scale pressure and wind systems at the surface • Typical vertical profiles at low, middle and high latitudes Waves Wind waves Significant wave height : the average height of the highest third of the waves. Wave height depends on: • speed (the force of the wind); • duration (the time the wind has been blowing); • fetch (the length of the area the wind is blowing over). Wave height definition for a regular wave Wave height definition for an irregular sea surface Histogram of wave heights Wave speed (phase velocity) • Short waves (deep water waves) gL 0.5 1 2 c 1.25m s L 1.56m s T 2 • Long waves (shallow water waves) including tsunamies and tides c g h 3.15m0.5 s 1 h Wave height Storm Typhoon Wipha Earth – Moon Orbit Tides • Equilibrium tide (spring and neap tide, diurnal inequality) • Real tides in the ocean M2 amplitude Bay of Fundy; High Tide Bay of Fundy; Low Tide Saltstraumen; mean speed 4-5 m/s, max speed 10 m/s? Ice in the sea • • • • • Slush, grease ice Pancake ice Pack ice Hummocs Icebergs Grease and pancake ice Pancake ice Pack ice Iceberg Iceberg GLACIER