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Hilo Town
Part 1: A Jewel on the Island
Downtown Hilo is a unique shopping district in a unique city.
The area bordering along the Wailuku River has long been
recorded as a center for commercial activity. William Ellis
reports in his 1827 article, A Narrative of a Tour Through
Hawaii, or Owyhee that natives from Puna, Kau and the south
point of the island, brought tapa cloth and quantities of dried
salt fish to trade. The people of Hilo, Hamakua and points
north brought hogs, tobacco, tapa, pandanus mats and taro.
From one side of the river bank to the other, traders shouted at
each other, arranging the preliminaries of their bargains. When
a price was decided the articles were brought down to the big
rock in the middle of the stream where the trade was
completed.
With the arrival of the missionaries to Hilo in 1824 came the
gradual influence of western trade practices of the time. When
the first frame buildings were erected the center of activity
was fixed by the location of the church and minister's home,
just a short distance from the river bank. The arrival of the
Lyman (1932) and Coan missionary families brought attempts
to model Hilo with a Puritan New England influence. The
great revival from 1837 to c. 1840 quickly converted the
population, extending so far as to convert the Captains and
seamen of visiting whaling ships. There was no turning back
to the days of old Hawaii.
The mission was the biggest event in the lives of the people. In
his later years Coan remarked how impossible it was to
understand how civilization coming to native people can
change their whole way of life, make them lose their spirit,
and change their resistance to disease. Measles was introduced
by the Independence in 1848, venereal disease had been
introduced by Cook's time. In 1835 smallpox struck followed
by leprosy and plague. The culture of old Hawaii was
destroyed, replaced with a culture in which others would live.
Sugar took over between 1850 and 1900, bringing foreigners
of many nationalities. The whaling ships brought new sources
of commerce to Hilo. Between 1853 and 1854 produce was
supplied to eighty ships. Agriculture activity centered around
the needs of the ships. Around 1868-69 the whaling fleet left
town and Hilo moved into a great commercial depression,
following the years of great commercial enterprise. Hilo had
depended on trade with the sea, there were no back roads or
routes to trade elsewhere on land. The economy fell flat. If this
was not bad enough tidal waves hit Hilo in August of 1868
and then again in May of 1877.
Sugar had a poor start in Hilo, but once big business took over
using heavy fertilization, irrigation, improved cane and
agricultural techniques introduced by the Scotch and English
managers the industry took off. Hilo became a sugar boom
town. Hilo was the center of government activity and the retail
and service center for the lives of the workers and families of
the surrounding plantations.
The town grew up and depended upon the sugar trade. During
the past decade the sugar industry diminished and has at last
disappeared. Like the end of the sea trade in the last century
Hilo is feeling the effects of an economy in trouble.
The buildings of downtown Hilo Town carry the legacy as the
commerce center that sugar built. Despite tsunami, threats of
lava flow, the end of the sugar industry and the resulting
economic consequences these buildings remain. They are a lot
like the people of Hilo, they are survivors who refuse to give
in to forces of both natural and commercial.
In their visit to East Hawaii, many people pass by the
downtown shopping district, by chance or by choice. This is a
shame, for they are missing a true jewel of Hawaii. Inside the
buildings one can find treasures of art, collectibles, fashion
and food. They will find people who have time to talk story,
share their wisdom and offer the aloha spirit. Downtown Hilo
Town is alive with personality. If you look closely you can see
it in the architecture of memories past. If you venture indoors
you will find it in the people you meet. Join me on a walking
tour of my home town.
Part 2: Kamehameha Avenue
Our tour begins at the Hilo Downtown Improvement
Association at 252 Kamehameha Avenue. Here you can pick
up a free walking tour of historic Hilo map, ask questions and
obtain information about special events. We turn left as we
leave the building and begin our tour.
224 Kamehameha - Wilson's by the Bay
Surf's up with Hawaii style clothing, hats, snacks and
refreshments. The Ice Shave here is fantastic, the syrup home
made.
216 Kamehameha - Pink Elephant
This is the first of the thrift and curio shops on our tour. The
store is maintained by the Hilo Woman's Club. The appeal of a
thrift shop is that you'll never know just what you'll find, the
browsing is fun and the bargains worthwhile. At the Pink
Elephant you'll find clothing, books, records, craft supplies
and more. The friendly staff always has time to stop and talk
story.
206 Kamehameha - Big Island Woodworks Gallery
A family tradition and business for more than 20 years offers
one of the finest collections of authentic Hawaiian wood craft
in the Islands. Koa and other natural woods are fashioned into
Hawaiian sailing vessels make them truly a work of art. Also
available are hand crafted shirts and gift articles.
202 Kamehameha - Hawaii Island Chamber of Commerce
You'll have your choice from a large collection of brochures
and pamphlets promoting business on the island.
194 Kamehameha - Caravan Town
Oriental curios, trinkets and toys fill this store from floor to
ceiling. Children, in particular will be fascinated by the
collection of toys and playthings. A great variety of wind
chimes gift items and ornaments.
188 Kamehameha - Sally Ann Shop
The Salvation Army thrift shop is large both in floor space and
inventory. Check the aloha wear, shirts and dresses. During
my visit this afternoon I bought two funky 1960s era aloha
shirts for 75 cents each. A bargain hard to match anywhere!
Take a moment to admire the window, the displays are always
interesting. The building originally housed the Hilo Dry
Goods, the business formed in 1915 Lau Fai and associates
who came from Canton, China. Hilo Dry Goods occupied this
building at about 1930. A thriving business for many years the
store closed it's doors in 1996.
174 Kamehameha - Kress Building
Restoration was completed in 1995 and inside you'll find
tributes to the volcano and tsunami and if you're lucky Bob
Chow, manager of the building. Bob was a policeman during
the tsunami years and has some fascinating stories to share of
the days way back when. If we're lucky Bob will be around
and we can grab a coffee or ice cream from the on site
Tropical Dreams and sit and talk story. You'll learn more
about the history of Hilo town than you ever could from a
history book. Bob has a wonderful manner in sharing the
history, you can almost see the events unfold before you. The
architecture of the building (1932) is Art -Deco, notice the
floral designs, batwing shapes and terra cotta front. The old
fashioned soda fountain is reminiscent of the era. The Kress is
often the home base for special events and craft fairs. Friday
night you will be able to catch the local talent from 6:30 - 9:30
p.m. when the Kress hosts a talent night.
164 Kamehameha - Hana Hou
Browse the fine arts and fashions for a special gift to share
with a loved one. Handcrafted clothing, shopping bags and
other art pieces are bought and sold by consignment. The
classic aloha shirts are a treasure.
160 Kamehameha - Basically Books
This is your one stop for Hawaiian specialty books, videos,
maps, posters and stationary. Great bargains for leisure
reading can be found in the used book section. This is always
an interesting shop to browse. Be sure to ask for your free
copy of the 31 flavors of Hilo, Hawaii. The brochure
spotlights some great Hilo destination spots.
130 Kamehameha - First Hawaiian Bank Building
Crossing Kalakaua and on the corner is the First Hawaiian
Bank Building. Built in 1930 by the famous Hawaii architect
C.W. Dickey the concrete building successfully survived both
the 1946 and 1960 tsunamis. New home of the tsunami
museum this is a great stop to learn about the effect on the
community from volcano and tsunami.
122 Kamehameha - Sig Zane Designs
Fine quality aloha wear and gifts are available.
110 Kamehameha - Bob's Jewelers
Hawaiian charms and bracelets, diamonds, jades, pearls clocks
and watches are for sale along with Hawaiian heirloom
jewelry.
106 Kamehameha - Rift Zone
A gallery of fine arts with ceramics by artist Robert Joiner,
jewelry, paintings, wood, glass and bronze sculptures.
Corner of Kamehameha and Waianuenue - Cronie's
I offer the best of luck to the newest business to the area.
Cronie's is a recently renovated nightspot offering tropical
refreshments, beer and ale. I stopped by Saturday evening and
enjoyed the comfortable surroundings.
76 Kamehameha - Koehnen's Building
Crossing Waianuenue Koehnens's Interiors sits on the corner.
Fine furnishings, accessories and gifts of china and silver
inhabit the large showroom. Originally built as the Hackfield
Building in 1910 with interior koa walls and ohia floors the
building is an example of the local adaptation of the local
Renaissance Revival style, even though renovations have been
done the building is still very much in its original state. Along
the curb of Kamehameha Avenue you may notice two-inch
rings spaced at intervals. Before automobiles came to Hilo,
these were used to tie up horses.
The corner of Kamehameha and Waianuenue was the
northeast corner of Hilo's commercial and government center
for more than one hundred years. Look towards the ocean,
between 1863 and 1890 wharves were built at the foot of
Waianuenue transporting passengers and freight between the
wharf and steamers anchored in Hilo Bay. The area was also
the site of the first post office and depot of the Hawaii
Consolidated Railway. The railroad connected
the Hamakua Coast to Hilo. At the turn of the century people,
and sugar cane were transported from the fields, to the mill
and on to Hilo for shipping. On April 1, 1946 a tsunami hit
Hilo and the railroad, putting it out of business. Sugar trucks
took over the transport and a shoreline highway was built
using part of the old railway right of way.
Continuing up Waianuenue notice the number of buildings
which stand vacant as if they are waiting for better days. They
are in fact, the shut down of the sugar industry and opening of
a modern mall have taken their toll on some of the businesses
downtown. As I mentioned before, Hilo is for survivors and
better days will come again. Change has been difficult for
Hilo, however, I believe change will bring life back to
downtown and the people who work hard to keep it alive.
38 Waianuenue - It's Deja Vu
This resale boutique offers bargains in fine fashions, jewelry
and accessories.
54 Waianuenue - Aloha Wired and Wireless
This telecommunications business offers pagers, cell phones,
home and business phones, and all the accessories related.
There are two stops on the opposite side of Waianeunue that
you shouldn't miss:
21 Waianuenue - Hilo Seeds & Snack
This tiny shop is interesting because of the many jars of
preserved sweets and candy. Stop in and purchase a grab bag
of the treats.
35 Waianuenue - Etsko
Specializing in fine quality collectables, accessories, jewelry,
and books. You'll find many interesting items. Take your time
browsing while you sip gourmet coffee from the bar.
Crossing Keawe and on the corner renovation and restoration
of this renaissance revival style building has recently been
completed. Notice the fine wrought iron work by local artist
Paul Saviskas. Originally the First Trust Building it is now
known as the Toyama Building. Among the first fireproof
buildings in Hilo, it was built in 1908 using steel beams and
reinforced concrete.
Turning right we continue two blocks down Keawe to the
arched bridge. From the bridge we can have a good look at the
Wailuku River. Looking upriver, notice the large oblong rock
in the middle of the stream. Known as the "Canoe of Maui,"
legend relates that the demi-god Maui was at
Mount Haleakala on the Island of Maui when, noticing that a
protective cloud that he had left for his mother, the
goddess Hina, had taken a strange shape, he sensed she was in
danger. With two mighty strokes he had spanned the channel
only to have his magic canoe beached at the mouth of the
Wailuku River.Hina was indeed in danger, she had been
trapped in a cave under Rainbow Falls, located upriver,
because her rebuffed suitor, Kuna Mo'o had dammed the river
below the falls, the water backing up into Hina's cave. With a
single stroke of his magic club Maui broke the dam and the
waters went rushing down the river.
During Kamehameha's days a toll was to be paid by all who
would cross the river by way of the stone, later on this was the
location where trade occurred during the markets and fairs. In
the days before there were bridges to safely cross the Wailuku
many lives were lost during periods of heavy rain when the
river rushed down from the mountain. Wailuku literally means
"destroying water."
At the corner of Keawe and Wailuku Drive is the building
called Kulana Na'auoa, which means "highest standard." Built
in 1913 in the Renaissance Revival style it was the location of
the first public library. In 1921 the annex was added to the rear
and in 1929 the new front wing was added. The library has
since expanded to a new location on Waianuenue. Kulana
Na'auoa has since housed a number of government offices.
Part 4: Federal Building and Kalakaua Park
Post Office and Federal Building
Returning to the Toyama Building we turn right at
Waianuenue and crossing Kekoulike we arrive at the Federal
Building and Post Office. An example of neo-classical style
with a Spanish mission influence. The building was
constructed in two stages, the original which housed the post
office was completed in 1910, the two wings were added in
1936.
Kalakaua Park
Across the street is Kalakaua Park. The huge banyan trees
offer shade and rest during the day, in the evenings during
summer Shakespeare plays are performed. A statue of the
Merrie Monarch, King Kalakaua sites in the park a reminder
of the days when the king would visit Hilo. It is believed that
some of the trees in the park were planted between 1874 and
1891 by the king. Leaving the park we return down
Waianuenue and back to Keawe, and then turn right.
Part 5: Keawe/Kalakaua/Haili
94 Keawe - KD's Gifts & Crafts
On this cozy corner you'll find a delightful shop. Many gifts
for kids' (and kids' at heart), including Beanie Babies, angels,
stickers, and rubber stamps. The clothing is unique and
handcrafted. The tiny keiki kimono's and aloha wear are
adorable.
106 Keawe - Bears
The people's choice for the best cappuccino and espresso this
is an ideal opportunity to have lunch and take a break. Bear's
offers great sandwiches, for a real treat try some waffles with
fresh fruit. You won't be disappointed. With all the walking
today you're sure to burn those extra calories! Insiders tip:
there is a bank machine across the street at the Bank of
Hawaii.
126 Keawe - Big Island Book and Literature
The offerings of educational books and materials are amazing,
a school teacher's dream come true. Peggy Ross will be happy
to help you out although it is fun to browse through the
resources which are conveniently arranged by subject matter.
Old Police Station and Hawaiian Telephone
Building Crossing Kalakaua and turning right we arrive at two
significant buildings. The Hawaiian Telephone Company
Building was completed in 1929. Another example by C.W.
Dickey the building combines the influences of European,
Oriental and Polynesian influences. Next door is the former
district courthouse and police station. The architectural style
resembles a Hawaiian grass house of the middle 1800's with
it's higher doors, windows and verandahs. The building is now
home the East Hawaii Cultural Center.
Niolopa At the top of Kalakaua is the former site of summer
royalty from 1852 to 1884. King David Kalakaua spent much
time here. In 1908 the property was developed into the Hilo
Hotel. The hotel went through various stages of renovation
over the years. It now stands empty, another reminder of the
hard times which has touched the local economy.
We'll retrace our steps back down Kalakaua and back to
Keawe.
140 Keawe & 148 Keawe - Kristina Lileeng Unique
Clothing / Joanne's
At Kristina's you'll find fine clothing and evening wear.
Joanne offers a variety of casual wear.
At the corner of Keawe and Haili make a right turn for a little
side trip.
106 Haili - Still Life Books
Still Life Books offers second hand books in great condition.
There is a wide variety of subjects, including Hawaiiana,
travel, gardening, and religion.
110 Haili - Touched By Angels
Angels are the theme of this fine collectable shop, you'll also
find Disney Beanies, chimes, dream catchers and other items
to add to your collection.
132 Haili - Barber Shop
Okay the secret is out...this is where you'll find my favorite
barber. Not only does she deliver with great style at a very
reasonable cost but she is a terrific story teller. You'll have to
stop by early in the day as the shop is only open between the
hours of 8 and 10 a.m.
Haili at corner of Kinoole - Big Island Academy of
Massage
I know, it's been a long walk and you're probably feeling a
little bit tired by now. Treat yourself to a massage at the walkin clinic. You'll feel refreshed in no time!
Cross Haili and continue back down the street towards Keawe.
250 Keawe - Hawaii Visitors Bureau
At the corner of Keawe and Haili is the Hawaii Visitors
Bureau. A collection of maps, guides and brochures are
available for free. The friendly staff will answer your
questions and make sure you have the literature you need.
235 Keawe - Pescatore
Crossing Keawe is the Pescatore where Italian cuisine is
available for lunch (11 - 2) and dinner (5:30 -10). The menu
includes such dishes as antipasti, zuppe and insalata.
249 Keawe - Sushi Deli
This recent addition to the downtown community offers a
quick snack of sushi.
255 Keawe - Magazines Plus
A variety of magazines and newspapers such as the New York
Times, San Francisco Examiner and Los Angeles Times are
available.
271 Keawe - Stella's Place
Another great thrift shop to hunt for bargains and collectables.
Stella also often has fresh offerings of fruit from the garden.
276 Keawe (across the street) - Mauna Kea Galleries
Specializing in vintage Hawaiiana for collectors, the gallery
buys and sells rare items from the islands.
282 Keawe - Surplus
Next door the the gallery this surplus store has many great
items for camping, hiking and outdoor sports. The real bargain
is the selection of tee shirts, all to be had at very reasonable
prices.
Furneaux Lane
You may notice this is the first non-Hawaiian street name we
have come across. There was actually a renaming of the streets
of the downtown area. An ordinance passed on May 5,1916
changed the then non-Hawaiian street names to their present
names. For example Kamehameha was originally Front Street
and Keawe was originally Bridge Street. Why Furneaux Lane
was does not bear a Hawaiian name I do not know. The lane
was named for Charles Furneaux, prominent during the turn of
the century as an artist and photographer.
325 Keawe - Panda Imports
The sign outside reads gifts, gadgets and goodies, which
describes the shop very well. More trinkets and gifts as well as
kitchen accessories.
Mamo Street - Mamo Market
Crossing Mamo Street you will notice that Keawe ends and
Kilauea Avenue begins. In the yellow tent, to our right is a
busy market place on Saturday's. Fresh fruits, vegetables and
tropical flowers are for sale by vendors, often local bands and
choirs will provide free entertainment.
Part 6: Kilauea Avenue
At Mamo, Keawe changes in to Kilauea Avenue, continue
along Kilauea for about one-half block.
179 Kilauea - Plantation Memories
This shop is incredible. Be prepared to browse. Every inch of
space is occupied with vintage bottles, toys, Hawaiiana and
collectables. If you have a special collection you're sure to find
something to add to it in this store!
185 Kilauea - Vintage Hawaiian Clothing
Browse through the clothing in this store and you're likely to
find something unique. Vintage aloha wear is quite
fashionable in the islands and you're sure to find something at
a fraction of what you'd pay in the big city.
187 Kilauea - Kilauea Preserve Center
Dried and preserved fruits, snacks and nuts can be bought by
the packet or from the big jars.
191 Kilauea - Don's Coins and Collectables
Coins, gold, jewelry and collectables are bought, sold and
traded.
199 Kilauea - Helen's Fabric Shoppe
Helen has a nice collection of prints with an island theme, and
the notions you'll need to create your own version of aloha
wear.
207 Kilauea - Biker Store
Harley parts, new and used, accessories and tee shirts.
223A Kilauea - Bytes and Bites
An opportunity to take a break, have a coffee juice, soft drink
and snack while you surf the Net and check your Email. The
friendly staff and ambience will make you feel at home.
We'll retrace our steps, cross Mamo Street and turn right on
the final leg of our tour.
Part 7: Mamo Street and Kamehameha Avenue
100 Mamo - Mamo Street Art and Used Books
This combination used book store / art gallery features a
variety of book subject titles on one side and profiles the
original work of local artists on the other.
94 Mamo - Flip Side Too Cocktail Lounge
Take a peak inside, it's like looking into a movie set of Hawaii
Five-O or a B-grade detective movie.
84 Mamo - Jimmy's Archery
What is that creature in the window? Part bird, reptile and
fish?
Mamo at Kamehameha - Farmer's Market
Saturday's and Wednesday's are market days wish fresh
produce, fish, baked goods, flowers and plants for sale by
local vendors. Across Kamehameha notice the Mo'oheauPark.
The Hilo County Band performs free concerts once a month in
the bandstand. Prior to the 1946 tidal wave there were
buildings on both sides of Kamehameha. The buildings we
will visit next were built in the early 1900's and survivors of
the great tsunami.
382 Kamehameha - Nautilus Dive Center, Inc.
Taking a little detour, we cross Mamo and stroll for a half
block to the Nautilus Dive Center. A great place to plan ocean
activities, the friendly staff will outfit you for a day on the
water. The rates are great and a trip to the island isn't complete
without exploring the marine life of the nearby beaches or
cruising the bay in a kayak.
336 Kamehameha - Reuben's Mexican Food
Turn left at Kamehameha and you'll find the best margaritas in
town accompany such dished as crab enchiladas and chicken
flautas.
330 Kamehameha - Universal Jewelers
The place to stop by if you are looking for Hawaiian jewelry
and gemstone rings.
308 Kamehameha - Cafe Pesto
Fine dining featuring fresh island fish, organic salads, pastas
and pizza.
S. Hata Building
Another building in the tradition of renaissance revival, the
building was built by the Hata family in 1912. During WWII it
was confiscated by the government, and then bought back
after the war for $100,000. Renovated in 1991 it now houses a
small businesses and offices. Inside you'll find Dreams of
Paradise which specializes in art and gifts from the islands,
Gentlemen's Hour Barber Shop, Canoe's Cafe, a sandwich and
salad bar, the Kipuka Smoke Shop, O'Keefe and Son Bakers
and Thundering Seas Jewelers.
300 Kamehameha - Big Island Estate Jewelry
Fine vintage furniture, art and jewelry. In a section at the back
there are also musical instruments, electronics and video
games for sale.
292 Kamehameha - Abundant Life Natural Foods
This natural food and deli offers organic foods, books, health
and specialty items at reasonable prices.
290 Kamehameha - Spirit Song
Unique gifts, cards and books in the new age tradition. Need
fairy dust? You can get it here!
284 Kamehameha - Hawaiian Arts
An assortment of tee shirts in varying styles and sizes are the
mainstay of this store, although there are usually used surf
boards available as well.
14 Furneaux - Rock Island Galleries/Da Bike Shop
Cross Furneaux Lane and turn left for a little shop off the
beaten track. A great find for rock hounds and collectors of
minerals and related gift items. At Da Bike Shop you can
arrange a rental for another day of exploring Hilo on
alternative wheels.
11 Furneaux - Rainbow Tattoo
Want an everlasting memento of your visit to Hilo. Steve, at
Rainbow Tattoo will fill your request. A man of many artistic
talents he designs web pages and is webmaster for Hilo.org.
266 Kamehameha - Dragon Mama
Need a good night's sleep? Dragon Mama offers futons an a
variety of bedding specialties including meditation pillows,
eye pillows and neck pillows. All are constructed from organic
cotton, wool, kapoc and buckwheat hulls, and hemp products.
262 Kamehameha - Big Isle Collectables
Buying, selling and trading coins, stamps and a variety of
small collectables. Another shop where the inventory is
always changing with interesting and rare finds.
256 Kamehameha - The Most Irresistible Shop in Hawaii /
The Fireplace Center
Irresistible and interesting! Tee shirts, clothing, stationary,
Hawaiiana, jewelry, books, educational toys and gifts. Many
items are hand made and the store carries the Kamehameha
Garment line of aloha shirts.
Fireplaces in Hawaii? Jeffrey Mermel has been supplying
homes with warmth since 1979. The evenings and mornings
can get quite cool in the higher elevations and in communities
such as Volcano. What could be better than cuddling with a
loved one in front of a fireplace? If you want to bring home a
very unique reminder of the islands, I'd say that fireplace
accessories would fit the bill!
As we arrive back at the Downtown Improvement Association
we have come full circle and our tour comes to an end. It has
been a full day and we still haven't experienced all of Hilo
Town. Perhaps you'll join me on another tour in the future?
Better still, come to Hilo and experience the tour first-hand.
Hilo never disappoints.