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Exfo-Bamboo Exclusive N.A. Distributor CENTERCHEM, INC. NORWALK, CT Ph: 203-822-9800 Fax: 203-822-9820 www.centerchem.com INTRODUCTION EXFO-BAMBOO is a solidified silica-containing material from bamboo stems (Bambusa arundinacea), milled to yield two cosmetic active compounds: one with particle size 200 μm and the other with particle size 500 μm. This plant product has been developed as a physical exfoliant agent to accelerate skin desquamation and therefore improve skin appearance. DESCRIPTION SKIN EXFOLIATION The horny layer is the outermost layer of the skin; besides its biological barrier function, it is also very important from an aesthetical point of view. The properties of the horny layer influence the skin appearance because they involve skin texture, light reflection and color. The horny layer continually undergoes natural exfoliation, due to its cells (corneocytes) renewal. This process maintains the uniformity of skin properties. However, if the cell turnover is altered of sloweddown, because of aging or environmental aggressions, skin texture is impaired resulting in roughness and thickening of the horny layer. Cosmetics solutions are available for this type of problems. Exfoliation removes dead cells and impurities, regulating the thickness of the horny layer and enhancing cell oxygenation. The outcome is smooth, polished, impurities-free and radiant skin. TYPES OF EXFOLIATION Exfoliation may be chemical or physical depending on the exfoliant agent. Chemical exfoliation consists in application of certain substances on the skin, which attack the cell junctions in the V 03-11/11 25050,25060-1 horny layer through enzymatic mechanisms or acidic pH. Conversely, physical exfoliation is based on detachment of dead cells through the mechanical action of exfoliant particles on the skin. Exfoliation can also be classified as face exfoliation or body exfoliation depending on the area where it is performed. Face exfoliation is usually mild, for cleaning the skin from impurities and dead cells enhancing the face appearance. Face exfoliants for men have additional properties such as improving men's skin tendency to impurities because of larger pores and more abundant sweating, and facilitating shaving because the hair follicles are more exposed. Body exfoliation, usually harder, renews the epidermis, enhances its appearance and facilitates penetration of other cosmetic products such as anti-cellulite and self-tanning products. EXFO-BAMBOO is a natural plant exfoliant with superficial physical action on the skin, which can be applied both on the face and the body. BOTANY AND CHEMISTRY BAMBOO IN THE NATURE Bambusa arundinacea (Retz.) Willd = Bambusa bambos (L.) Voss. Bamboo is a member of family Poaceae (Gramineae), subfamily Bambusoideae. It grows throughout the tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, especially in humid regions under the influence of Monsoon. These are the fastest growing plants known (most of varieties grow about 10 cm per day) and may reach 30 meters in height. Bamboo is well known by its strong stems, 15-18 cm in diameter, with nodes (figure 1) every 20-40 cm. The leaves are long, lanceolate and very flexible. Flowers appear on inflorescences at the top of the plant. The hardness and stiffness of bamboo stems is due to the presence of silica in the structure V 03-11/11 of their fibers. Under certain 25050,25060-2 circumstances, the nodes secrete a substance, which crystallizes at ambient temperature in a hard yellowish-white material. This substance is known as tabasheer, tabashir, bamboo-manna or bamboo silica (figure 2). The reasons underlying silica secretion in bamboo are still not known. It seems that the plant needs less silica at certain periods so that it secretes the silica excess. Tabasheer is mainly composed of silicon dioxide (SiO 2), commonly called silica, and water; it also contains small amounts of sodium silicate (Na2SiO3), potassium dioxide (K2O), calcium dioxide (CaO) and magnesium dioxide (MgO). Silicon is a chemical element very near to the carbon and is the second element, after the oxygen, more abundant in the Earth. It is present in small quantities in all the living beings; in the animals the majority of silicon is in the connective tissue and bones as well as in the skin, nails and hair. The tabasheer is considered to be the most important natural source of organic silica. EXFO-BAMBOO is a plant silica coming from the natural secretion of bamboo. Figure 1: Node of the bamboo with Figure 2: Tabasheer secretion of silica V 03-11/11 25050,25060-3 TRADITIONAL USE OF BAMBOO Bamboo is considered a part of life in Asia. It plays a role in every aspect of life: art, medicine and daily life, and it is used as a raw material for building houses, tools, clothes, kitchenware and musical instruments. It is also consumed as food and it’s especially prized as a source of tabasheer, a good dietary supplement, which provides organic silica. Tabasheer is one of the main bambooderived substances used in Ayurveda and Tibetan medicines. Its properties are: stimulant, astringent, febrifuge, tonic, antispasmodic and aphrodisiac. It is used to treat bronchitis, asthma and leprosy. An Ayurveda preparation, called Sitopaladi Churna, containing tabasheer, is traditionally used to treat tuberculosis and as a popular medicine for cold, sore throat, sinusitis and cough. Formulas containing tabasheer are used in Tibet, to treat lung diseases. BAMBOO IN COSMETICS The tabasheer of the bamboo, with its white color and with its medicinal action on the respiratory system and on the infectious diseases, is perceived as a body oxygenant and purifying substance. Furthermore, as EXFO-BAMBOO exfoliates the skin, it removes impurities and regulates the thickness, thus providing better cellular oxygenation and a purified appearance. Skin irregularities are reduced and the skin appears more radiant. We present two bamboo cosmetic actives designed for different exfoliation needs: EXFO-BAMBOO FACE: granulometry 200 µm, designed for mild face exfoliation EXFO-BAMBOO BODY: granulometry 500 µm, designed for moderate body exfoliation V 03-11/11 25050,25060-4 The white color of both actives makes them suitable for incorporation to any cosmetic formulation; they remain solid and their color doesn’t change. Table 1 shows their physicochemical characteristics. Density Granulometry Particle morphology Solubility EXFO-BAMBOO FACE EXFO-BAMBOO BODY 400-600 g/L 400-600 g/L ≤ 200 µm: ≥ 90% ≤ 500 µm: ≥ 90% 200 µm: ≤ 10% 500 µm: ≤ 10% Geometric irregular aspect Geometric irregular aspect Insoluble in water Insoluble in water Table 1. Physicochemical characteristics of EXFO-BAMBOO FACE and EXFO-BAMBOO BODY The figure 3 shows the aspect of the particles of EXFO-BAMBOO. Figure 3-Left: Macroscopic aspect of EXFO-BAMBOO BODY; Right: Appearance of EXFO-BAMBOO BODY (X 10) observed through an optical microscope (Unilux-12, Kyowa) The above explained EXFO-BAMBOO characteristics make this product suitable for safe and effective skin exfoliation. V 03-11/11 25050,25060-5 COSMETIC PROPERTIES AND APPLICATIONS EXFO-BAMBOO is a novel plant cosmetic ingredient for skin physical exfoliation. The characteristics of its particles make this product suitable for different face and body care formulations. EXFO- BAMBOO FACE meets consumers’ different cosmetic needs on the basis of the following cosmetic properties: Young skin (< 20 years old). Major characteristics of this type of skin are: abundant sebum secretion and desquamation problems, which result in a tendency to acne. EXFOBAMBOO FACE helps restoring normal desquamation and removes fatty impurities accumulated on the skin. Because of their silica content, the white EXFO-BAMBOO particles have purifying effects and remove rests of epidermal fatty material. Adult skin (20-40 years old). Due to daily life activities, the skin is subjected to different environmental challenges such as urban pollution, closed environments or smoke, which produce accumulation of impurities on the skin. Additionally, adult skin starts to show some irregularities due to accumulation of dead cells. EXFO-BAMBOO FACE cleans the face skin leaving it better oxygenated and purified. Bamboo particles perform a mildly peeling of the epidermis, removing dead cells accumulations and smoothing the face skin. Mature skin (> 40 years old). Epidermal aging brings about slowdown of the desquamation process, which results in skin thickening and roughness. Silicon dioxide and other mineral salts in bamboo provide constituent components for the skin cells to recover normal functionality. EXFO-BMABOO FACE helps restoring the normal physiological rate of dead cells elimination and polishes the skin relief, leaving the skin smoother and radiant. Typical facial care formulations are hygiene products, such as gels or creams, and peeling products, such as face masks. EXFO-BAMBOO BODY is a physical exfoliant, which adapts to the different needs of the skin and can be used for the following applications: Young skin (< 20 years old). Physical activity and sports increase body sweating and produce an augment of skin impurities. EXFO-BAMBOO BODY removes accumulated V 03-11/11 25050,25060-6 residues and leaves the skin clean, radiant and oxygenated. Bamboo particles have skin cleansing and regenerative effects after intense physical activity. Adult skin (20-40 years old). This type of skin needs specific cosmetic treatments; the use of moisturizing and anti-cellulite products is rather frequent. By other hand, social aspects and present-day trends bring about the use of other selective products, such as selftanning products. EXFO-BAMBOO BODY removes skin irregularities and prepares the skin, so that subsequent cosmetic treatments can act more efficiently. Skin exposition to bamboo mineral salts is beneficial for complementary cosmetic treatments, like Spa treatments. Mature skin (> 40 years old). Much like the face epidermis, body epidermis shows reduced cell turnover rate, which produces roughness in certain areas such as the elbows, knees and feet. EXFO-BAMBOO BODY reduces the thickening of the horny layer, leaving the skin even and smooth. Bamboo – a component of the ancient Ayurveda medicine because of its stimulatory tonifying properties – helps epidermal metabolism, thus restoring normal cell renewal. Typical body care formulations are hygiene products, such as gels or creams, and peeling products, such as body milk. RECOMMENDED CONCENTRATION EXFO-BAMBOO FACE: the recommended dose is between 5.0 and 10.0 %. EXFO-BAMBOO BODY: the recommended dose is between 5.0 and 10.0 %. BIBLIOGRAPHY Dransfield, S. & Widjaja, E.A. (Editors), 1995. Plant Resources of South-East Asia No.7. Bamboos.Backhuys Publishers, Leiden. Gupta, A.K., Sharma, M. & Tandon, N. (Editors), 2004. Reviews on Indian Medicinal Plants, Volume 4 (Ba-By). Indian Council of Medical Research, New Delhi. V 03-11/11 25050,25060-7 Klinowski, J., Cheng C-F., Sanz J., Rojo J.M., Mackay A. Structural studies of tabasheer, an opal of plant origin. Phil. Mag.A, 1998, Vol. 77, No. 1, 201- 216. Websites: http://www.itmonline.org/arts/bamboo.htm [accessed December 2007] V 03-11/11 25050,25060-8