Download FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Kanebo Cosmetics reveals new

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Kanebo Cosmetics reveals new findings on photo-aging induced by UVA
1. Elastin in the lower dermis deteriorates during the early stage of photo-aging.
2. New photo-aging marker “COMP” detected.
Tokyo, Japan – December 4, 2012
In a joint study on skin aging caused by ultraviolet (UV) rays, the Innovative Beauty
Science Laboratory of Kanebo Cosmetics, in collaboration with the Departments of
Dermatology, Plastic Surgery, and Cell Biology of Tokai University School of
Medicine, succeeded in establishing a method of evaluation based on “photoaging histological stage,” which provides an objective index for evaluating the
degree of progress of dermal tissue changes caused by photo-aging. It was also
shown that photo-aging histological stage is significantly inter-correlated with visual
evaluation of wrinkle scores. Furthermore, in the process of developing the index,
researchers revealed for the first time that elastin abnormality develops in the lower
dermis during the early stage of photo-aging.
In the first part of this research project it was also discovered that the level of
“COMP” (cartilage oligomeric matrix protein), a protein that stimulates collagen
formation, is increased with the progress of photo-aging. Thus, it is considered that
COMP is a unique marker for identifying damage related to photo-aging .
Kanebo Cosmetics is promoting the development of products that effectively
block UVA exposure and respond to photo-aging. The present findings, which
clarified the progression of skin photo-aging by objective evaluation, are an
important step in this direction. These results again demonstrated the significant
effect of UVA on photo-aging.
These results will be presented at the 37th Annual Meeting of the Japanese
Society for Investigative Dermatology held in Naha, December 7-9 .
What is photo-aging?
Aging is caused by not only physiological factors (natural aging), but also
environmental factors. Of all the various effectors, UV irradiation exerts the greatest
effects on skin as it accelerates the progress of natural aging, and causes serious
dark spots and winkles. For this reason, aging that progresses with long-term UV
exposure is specifically referred to as ‘photo-aging’.
With photo-aging, the skin becomes dull, mainly because of increased dark spots,
and forms deep winkles due to decreased skin elasticity and firmness. It is known
that marked damage such as deterioration of collagen and elastin develops in the
inner skin, especially in the dermis. However, it has not been clarified where in the
dermis the damage develops or how those changes progress.
With this background in mind, the research group of Tokai University and Kanebo
Cosmetics developed an index to show gradual changes in tissues, for the purpose
of investigating the relationship between the effect of UV irradiation on skin and
changes in dermal tissue.
Relationship between progress of damage in dermal components and photo-aging
histological stage
The research group has been closely studying the histological structure of photoaged skin from various viewpoints. After a simultaneous evaluation of the dermal
components elastin, collagen, and decorin (a molecule that regulates the
diameter of collagen fibers and the distance between the fibers), the researchers
were able to classify the degree of degeneration of the dermis extracellular matrix
into 6 stages. That evaluation system was termed ‘photo-aging histological stage’
and used to establish an index for the progress of dermal tissue changes caused by
photo-aging. With this index, extracellular matrix changes caused by UV irradiation
can be objectively evaluated.
Photo-aging histological stage (excerpt)
Reddish purple: collagen
Black: elastin
Purple: decorin
Progress of histological changes
Stage I (mild) ~ Stage IV (severe)
Stage I
(mild)
Stage III
Stage VI
(severe)
Degeneration of elastin in lower dermis confirmed during early stage of photoaging
In the process of establishing photo-aging histological stage, the research group
looked into the origin of histological changes in the dermis. As a result, in photoaged skin, it was visually confirmed for the first time that elastin deteriorates in the
lower dermis during the early stage. UV rays that reach earth are divided into two
types, namely UVA and UVB. Those that easily reach the lower dermis because of
their long wavelength are UVA rays. UVA radiation is considered to play a
significant role in the development of photo-aging, thus our findings again showed
that protection against both UVB and UVA is important to maintain beautiful skin.
Epidermis
Dermis
An abnormal increase in elastin
(dark-stained part in B, inside dotted
line) was observed in the lower
Skin unaffected by
UV irradiation
Skin in early
photo-aging stage
Noticeable wrinkles with advancement of photo-aging histological stage
To investigate the relationship between photo-aging histological stage and skin
appearance, the skin of 26 female subjects was analyzed. A correlation was found
between photo-aging histological stage and wrinkle score, which revealed that
the scores for wrinkles in the corners of the eyes, and clarity and depth of wrinkles
were higher in skin in an advanced stage. These findings confirmed that
deterioration of collagen, elastin, and decorin is significantly involved in the
formation of wrinkles.
Detection of photo-aging marker COMP
To clarify the mechanism of skin photo-aging, the research group searched for
factors greatly affected by UV irradiation in human skin. Those results revealed the
importance of COMP (cartilage oligomeric matrix protein), a kind of protein that
stimulates collagen formation, in photo-aged skin. Using photo-aging histological
stage for evaluation, it was clarified that COMP emerged notably in skin with
advanced photo-aging.
To search for the mechanism of COMP emergence in photo-aged skin, dermal
fibroblasts were exposed to UV rays. Those results showed that COMP synthesis was
markedly increased not by UVB, but by UVA irradiation.
Based on these findings, it is considered likely that COMP can be utilized as a
marker to determine photo-aging damage accelerated by UVA. Studies of COMP
will continue in the future.
Skin not easily exposed to UV｡
Skin easily exposed to UV
[]
COMP: red
200C
COMP mRNA levels
COMP mRNA increase induced
by UVA irradiation
Distribution of COMP in photo-aged skin
10
8
6
4
2
0
0
1.2
2.5
UVA (J/cm2)
Kanebo Cosmetics, in collaboration with Tokai University, succeeded in objectively
clarifying photo-aging progression using photo-aging histological stages. The results
confirmed that the effect of UVA on photo-aging is not negligible. From these
findings, the company will conduct further studies to clarify the mechanism that
causes photo-aging in skin, and promote development of products that effectively
protect against UVA and counteract photo-aging.
Results obtained in the present study will be presented in the 37th Annual
Meeting of the Japanese Society for Investigative Dermatology held in Naha,
December 7-9.
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