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BHUTAN $29.95 Lyonpo Thinley Gyamtsho lives in Bhutan, where he serves as the Minister of Education of the Royal Government. “This peaceful nation is emerging as a big draw, attracting those in search of a spiritual journey, a hiking adventure—or just a chance to experience a place before the rest of the world gets there. [Bhutan is] a Brigadoon of astonishing beauty.” The New York Times, “Why Is Everyone Going to Bhutan?” US$29.95 Berthold ISBN 0-86171-282-X land of the thunder dragon John Berthold has lived, worked, and traveled extensively throughout Asia since 1994. His passionate interest in Buddhism and Himalayan culture has led him to visit Tibet, northern India, and Nepal and take eight trips to Bhutan to research and photograph Bhutan: Land of the Thunder Dragon. He has hosted several gallery exhibitions of his work and has had his photographs published in numerous newspapers and magazines. He lives with his wife in Portland, Oregon, USA. R BHUTAN land of the thunder drag on John Berthold Wisdom Publications • Boston www.wisdompubs.org foreword by h. e. lyonpo thinley gyamtsho, minister of the royal government of bhutan wisdom egarded as the “crown jewel of the Himalayas,” the Kingdom of Bhutan is the last remaining independent country to support Buddhism as the official state religion. It is also where progress is famously measured in terms of “Gross National Happiness.” After coverage on American television’s 60 Minutes and in publications as varied as Conde Nast Traveler, Yoga Journal, and The Economist, Bhutan is the next big travel destination. Yet few have seen it as photographer John Berthold has. The photographs found here capture John Berthold’s uniquely intimate experience of this vast and stunning land and its people. Benefitting from special authorization from the Bhutanese government, the photographer shot over the course of three years at locales normally off-limits to Western visitors. The resulting images, collected here, transport the reader to colorful festivals and religious traditions, and to remote villages along the roof of the world. For the many who dream of making the trip, Bhutan: Land of the Thunder Dragon is truly the next best thing to being there. And even those fortunate few who have had the chance to visit will find here a Bhutan full of surprises. A Note from the Publisher We hope you will enjoy this Wisdom book. For your convenience, this digital edition is delivered to you without “digital rights management” (DRM). This makes it easier for you to use across a variety of digital platforms, as well as preserve in your personal library for future device migration. Our nonprofit mission is to develop and deliver to you the very highest quality books on Buddhism and mindful living. We hope this book will be of benefit to you, and we sincerely appreciate your support of the author and Wisdom with your purchase. If you’d like to consider additional support of our mission, please visit our website at wisdompubs.org. Acquired at wisdompubs.org BHUTAN land of the thunder drag on Acquired at wisdompubs.org Acquired at wisdompubs.org BHUTAN land of the thunder drag on Photographs and text by John Berthold Foreword by His Excellency Lyonpo Thinley Gyamtsho Wisdom Publications • Boston Acquired at wisdompubs.org Author’s Note: Some photographs in this book are from restricted areas of Bhutan, which remain officially closed to tourists. Also, your careful handling and storing of this book is greatly appreciated due to the sacred images and artifacts in many of the photographs. Wisdom Publications, Inc. 199 Elm Street Somerville, MA 02144 USA www.wisdompubs.org All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under the copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored, or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means including electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without prior written permission of John Berthold, the copyright owner. © John Berthold, 2005 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Berthold, John, 1967Bhutan : land of the thunder dragon / photographs and text by John Berthold ; foreword by His Excellency Lyonpo Thinley Gyamtsho. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 0-86171-282-X (hardcover : alk. paper) ISBN 978-0-86171-960-0 (ebook) 1. Bhutan—Pictorial works. 2. Bhutan—Description and travel. I. Title. DS491.42.B48 2005 954.98'0022'2—dc22 2005013740 Photographer’s note on cover image: A group of monks pose by the Dagana Dzong dressing room prior to the final dance and blessing of their annual tsechu festival. The monk in the center is a smiling manifestation of the second Buddha, Padmasambhava, surrounded by two wrathful deities and two peaceful disciples. Looking back on my eight visits to Bhutan, the tsechu festivals I attended left the strongest impressions and memories. For the Bhutanese, they are the most important of all annual public events, attended by huge crowds of pious villagers. During a tsechu, many dances are performed to honor Padmasambhava, and the highlight is on the last day when all those in attendance may receive a blessing from a lama dressed as Padmasambhava. This image was difficult yet rewarding to take. I had to ask for permission to enter the dressing room area, had a few brief seconds to get the shot, yet was pleased to see the dancers pose on their own in a balanced and natural way. I find this intimate moment during a boisterous event works well to introduce the book, because it serves as a welcoming doorway for readers to look inside and learn about the people and culture of Bhutan. Photograph caption for page ii: Deki, 11, stands near the entrance of her neighbors’ house in Bumthang. Printed in Canada Acquired at wisdompubs.org To my mother, Kathleen Berthold and my grandfather, Walter Laband Acquired at wisdompubs.org Padmasambhava statue, Ura Lhakhang Acquired at wisdompubs.org Contents Map • ix Foreword • xi Introduction • 1 Buddhism and Monastic Life • 5 Tsechu and Dromche festivals • 41 Northern Frontier • 69 Brokpas of Sakteng • 95 Lhotshampas • 111 Central Highlands • 131 Acknowledgments • 157 Bibliography • 159 Acquired at wisdompubs.org Acquired at wisdompubs.org Acquired at wisdompubs.org Shabdrung painting, Tashichhoe Dzong Acquired at wisdompubs.org FOREWORD I am very pleased to introduce Bhutan: Land of the Thunder Dragon, written and photographed by my friend, John Berthold. One of the most profound events in Bhutan’s history took place early in the eighth century, when a renowned Buddhist saint named Guru Padmasambhava traveled throughout the Himalayas and introduced the Bhutanese people to the teachings of Vajrayana Buddhism. These new teachings and religious practices blended over time with local customs and traditions to form a distinctive Bhutanese identity. Today, the people of Bhutan remain deeply influenced by Buddhism in nearly every aspect of birth, life, and death. In 1907, a unanimous vote crowned His Majesty Gongsar Ugyen Wangchuk as the first King of Bhutan. Fifty-two years later, in 1959–60, Bhutan began to abandon its self-imposed policy of isolation and embarked on a multitude of development programs. The arrival of the twenty-first century has ushered in an era of tremendous change for Bhutan. And while many modern advances have greatly improved the lives of all Bhutanese, careful attention is being paid to ensure that this progress does not dilute our rich cultural and religious heritage. Having witnessed many of these modern changes myself, I have seen the far-reaching impact, both positive and negative, of globalization on even the most distant villages in Bhutan. I am pleased to see this book document some of the ways that the culture and lives of many Bhutanese people have remained outside the scope of such influence and change. If you have not had an opportunity to personally visit Bhutan, I would like to extend a warm invitation for you to come to the Himalayas and experience the beauty and passion that endures along the roof of the world. Lyonpo Thinley Gyamtsho Acquired at wisdompubs.org Wangdi Phodrang Dzong Acquired at wisdompubs.org I ntroduction Often called the “crown jewel of the Himalayas,” the Kingdom of Bhutan is the last independent country in the region to support Buddhism as the official state religion. This independence has been fostered in part by the perpetually snow-capped mountains in the north and dense jungles in the south that have served as natural barriers, protecting the country from outsiders for generations. In the heart of the country, a seemingly endless maze of deep valleys has provided a magnificent landscape upon which the Bhutanese have carefully preserved their rich legacy of traditional values and religious customs. Numerous theories about the origin of the name “Bhutan” abound. One suggestion is that it comes from the Sanskrit word Bhotant, which means “the end of Tibet.” Old British maps named the country “Bootan” from the Sanskrit word Bhotia, which means “Tibetan people.” Regardless of the Western name for their country, the Bhutanese know their home as Drukyul, “Land of the Thunder Dragon.” In turn, they refer to themselves as Drukpas. The names derive from a monastery in Tibet called Druk, which was founded in 1189 on a hill where a legendary dragon appeared. The Bhutanese continue to identify themselves with the dragon symbol; it is proudly featured on the national flag and on various denominations of currency. The origins of the mighty Himalayas can be traced back sixty million years, when what is now Bhutan was deep underwater in the ancient Tethys Sea. Over thousands of years, the Indo-Australian land mass slowly began to drift north and was pushed under the Eurasian continent directly north of Bhutan. The crust of the earth began to buckle and fold upward from the tremendous tectonic forces, and over time the sea was replaced with mountains, which continue to rise higher to this day. Little is known about the ancient history of Bhutan, but recent archaeological evidence suggests that the country was first inhabited during the Neolithic Period between 1,500 and 2,000 b.c. Historians have speculated that the Manas River, which cuts through the country, was used during this time as an immigration route from India to Tibet. Important events chronicled in early Bhutanese history center largely on Buddhist saints and religious leaders. Unfortunately, many precious texts on Bhutan’s history were lost in disastrous fires early in the seventeenth century. The majority of what is known today comes from the records of early British explorers, folklore, and a few books that survived. Buddhism was brought to Bhutan in the seventh century under the auspices of the Tibetan king, Songtsen Gampo, who initiated the construction of Kyichu Monastery in Paro and Jambay Monastery in Bumthang. At the time the Bhutanese practiced a shamanistic religion known as Bön, but the influence from these two temples quickly spread and Bön began to wane. In the eighth century Buddhism developed further when the enlightened tantric Buddhist master Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche, visited Bhutan on three separate occasions. Padmasambhava is known to have traveled to many different parts of the Himalayas to spread his teachings, subdue harmful demons, and meditate in auspicious caves. As a way for future generations to continue his powerful legacy, he left behind secret texts hidden in places that could only be found by enlightened lamas known as tertons. The years that followed saw a continual expansion of Buddhism’s influence within the lives of the Bhutanese people, punctuated by several important events. In the thirteenth century the Drukpa Kagyu lineage of Buddhism was introduced to the country by a Tibetan lama named Phajo Drukgom Shigpo. The following century, a famous terton named Pema • Acquired at wisdompubs.org 1• Lingpa discovered many treasures left behind by Padmasambhava, including some at the bottom of a small lake in Bumthang. In the seventeenth century another Tibetan lama, Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, unified the country under a central authority and declared Drukpa Kagyu Buddhism as the official state religion, a tradition that continues today. December 17, 1907 marked the day when the country began to shift from a Buddhist theocracy to a civilian government with the crowning of the first Bhutanese king, His Majesty Ugyen Wangchuck, who reigned until his death in 1926. The second king, H.M. Jigme Wangchuck, followed in his father’s footsteps and continued to modernize the country. His many accomplishments included the signing of a friendship and cooperation treaty with India, which helped create a prosperous and harmonious relationship for both countries that continues today. The third king, H.M. Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, was crowned in 1952 and shortly thereafter altered the structure of the government by establishing the National Assembly the following year. Still in place today, this vital forum provides local representatives from across the country an opportunity to meet in the nation’s capital to debate and vote on the best solutions for the problems at hand. Before his death, H.M. Jigme Dorjie Wangchuck secured formal international recognition for Bhutan by joining the United Nations in 1971. The current king, known as the Druk Gyalpo, His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck, became the youngest monarch in the world when he was crowned in 1974 at age nineteen. Respected and honored by all Bhutanese, he has embraced a wide variety of development programs, as well as carefully preserving Bhutan’s cultural and natural heritage. In 1998, he decided the National Assembly, not the king, should bear the responsibility to appoint the Council of Ministers. Another milestone among his accomplishments was the appointment of a representative group of religious and governmental figures to draft the first Bhutanese constitution. • Vast and sweeping changes have greatly improved the lives of the Bhutanese people over the past thirty years. Numerous roads have been built to provide better access for villagers, free schools and health clinics are present throughout the country, and modern telecommunication facilities link even the most remote villages. Yet despite these and many other important advances, the Bhutanese have been mindful to carefully preserve their traditional culture, which is distinct from both Tibet and India. As Bhutan enters the twenty-first century, tremendous signs of accomplishment are evident throughout the country. Villages, farms, and towns are thriving and expanding to meet the needs of all Bhutanese. Monasteries and temples are carefully maintained and repaired as needed, providing a welcome sanctuary for monks, nuns, and the Bhutanese public to connect with their long religious heritage. Between the mountain villages, the dense forests are carefully managed to ensure biodiversity for a wide range of flora and fauna. Spared much of the world’s turbulence and the more devastating aspects of globalization, the kingdom of Bhutan is keenly admired by many societies who have lost touch with their past in their rush to the future. 2• Acquired at wisdompubs.org Kesang, 13, Haa Dzong Acquired at wisdompubs.org Buddha Shakyamuni, Sakteng Lhakhang Acquired at wisdompubs.org Buddhism É Monastic Life The official state religion of Bhutan, Drukpa Kagyu Buddhism, traces its heritage back to the northern Indian town of Bodhgaya, where Siddhartha Gautama became the Buddha around 500 b.c. After discovering a middle path between asceticism and sensory gratification, Siddhartha overcame numerous inner obstacles to achieve Buddhahood, or full enlightenment. Known in Bhutan as Shakyamuni, the Buddha traveled widely on the Indian subcontinent and preached that because all beings are driven by selfish desires, a cycle of suffering reincarnation cannot be broken unless one follows the noble eightfold path of ethical behavior, deep meditation, and profound insight. According to Bhutanese legend, Shakyamuni subdued and converted a powerful spirit named Yeshe Goenpo, who then became the principal guardian deity of Bhutan. Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, is often called the second Buddha in Bhutan. He is said to have miraculously emerged as an eight-year-old from a blue lotus early in the eighth century. Padmasambhava became an enlightened master of the tantric, or Vajrayana, branch of Buddhism and traveled extensively throughout the Himalayan region, spreading the Buddhist teachings. Even though Buddhism had slowly begun to supplant the shamanistic Bon faith centuries before his three visits, Padmasambhava is celebrated for cementing Buddhist ideology in Bhutan and for heroic mediations in remote caves. As a testament to his influence, nearly all temples and monasteries today prominently feature Padmasambhava in the center of the altar. After Padmasambhava’s time, Himalayan Buddhism, which is also known as Tibetan Buddhism, continued to grow and to evolve into the four primary lineages we see today: Nyingma, Kagyu, Sakya, and Gelug. The Drukpa Kagyu Buddhism practiced in Bhutan is one of several traditions within the Kagyu lineage, which descends from Milarepa, Tibet’s famous hermit saint. Today, Buddhism permeates nearly all aspects of Bhutanese culture, and it is customary for one son from each family to join the monastic community at an early age. Even though it is not compulsory for Bhutanese monks or nuns to remain as such, many choose to do so, spending their lives in the pursuit of study and meditation. At certain times of the year, they may return to their parents’ homes to rest and to help with the responsibilities of maintaining their families’ farms. The central monk body, known as the Dratshang, oversees all religious activity in the country and is led by the highest-ranking lama in the country, His Holiness the Je Khenpo. All monasteries adhere to a strict code that has remained unchanged for hundreds of years. Rising long before dawn, monks and nuns begin group prayers and book study at 4 a.m., continuing until 9 p.m. with breaks for two meals and specific religious duties. Due to the tremendous complexity of the Drukpa Kagyu beliefs and practices, decades of study are required to master the diverse and extensive teachings. One of the most daunting challenges for monks is a retreat that takes three years, three months, three weeks, and three days during which they do not come into contact with anyone. Once completed, monks will often take a short break and then continue on for an additional two retreats, totaling ten years of isolated meditation. The Drukpa Kagyu pantheon of saints who have attained enlightenment—Buddhas from the past and future, compassionate guardians known as bodhisattvas, and terrifying protective deities—is both extensive and diverse. Although temples, monasteries, and unique holy sites throughout Bhutan differ slightly in content and construction style, they are bound together by the threads of a common religious heritage. • Acquired at wisdompubs.org 5• Acquired at wisdompubs.org Lhuntsi Dzong was constructed in 1654 on a strategic spur overlooking the Kuri River Valley. Fortress monasteries, known as dzongs, built in Bhutan during the seventeenth century needed to command a defensive position to protect the surrounding villages from incursions by Tibetan armies. Left: Monks from Dagana Dzong, built in 1655, recite their early morning prayers from large books printed on handmade paper. The rigorous monastic schedule that has remained unchanged for generations begins at 3 a.m. when the monks first wake up. Their day is spent studying religious books, participating in group prayers, and sharing the responsibilities of maintaining their residence. • Acquired at wisdompubs.org 7• Adjacent to the central prayer hall in Simtokha Dzong is a massive 375-year-old statue of the historic first Buddha, Shakyamuni. The Buddha is flanked by several statues of bodhisattvas, disciples who have developed the aspiration to become Buddhas in order to relieve the suffering of all beings. Acquired at wisdompubs.org Acquired at wisdompubs.org The enticing smell of warm barley flour being molded by nuns from Namsaling Convent into torma offerings attracts a hungry goat. Tormas are crafted from a wide variety of ingredients then placed on altars in temples and homes as offerings to Buddhist deities. After a few days, the tormas are destroyed and new ones created. Right: Nidup Zam, 60, an elderly nun, sits with Kinley Ohm, 11, to her left and Kezang Deki, 11, to her right. Although nuns live in convents separate from monks, they follow a similar lifestyle of study and prayer. • 10 • Acquired at wisdompubs.org Acquired at wisdompubs.org Acquired at wisdompubs.org Acquired at wisdompubs.org Acquired at wisdompubs.org