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Black
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Black Baccara
INTRODUCTION
Black Baccara rose, popularly known as “black rose”, can be considered as one of the most attractive
commercially available roses due to its peculiar dark and intense red color, which can even be black,
depending on lighting, and also due to its delicate fragrance. Its velvety petals and tonality, in addition to its
anti-aging cosmetic properties, are easily associated with luxury products designed for consumers
interested in more exclusive cosmetics.
BOTANY
Black Baccara rose (Black Baccara Meilland) is a direct variety of Rosa baccara, one of the world's most
famous roses. Several million black roses have been sold since their creation by French company Meilland.
This variety of rose belongs to the group of hybrid tea roses, a group of modern garden rose cultivars
created by crossing “tea rose” or “tea perfume rose” (Rosa Noisette) and another remontant hybrid (Rosa
gallica).
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Black Baccara flowers can have up to 45 petals; they are perennial and can reach a height of 1.80 meters. It
is advisable to cultivate this rosebush in a shaded area not frequently exposed to direct sunlight.
Black Baccara rose extract is obtained from the flower petals.
TRADITIONAL USES
Among all flowers, the rose has been the favorite one for perfume lovers for over three thousand years.
Homer described the rose oil that Aphrodite used to anoint the body of Hector, obtained from the
maceration of petals in olive oil. Islamic perfumery was the first one to distill Damascus rose petals. The
Persian city of Shiraz was known in the 8th century for its rose water, which was exported to Europe, India
and China until the 17th century. Apart from culinary and pharmaceutical uses, rose water was highly
appreciated by western perfumers, from the Renaissance to the 19th century.
The flavor of the rose is as delicate and exquisite as its perfume. A casserole dish made with whole Chinese
roses can be found in Chinese cuisine. The Greeks and Romans used rose petals in main dishes and desserts.
In eastern Mediterranean and earlier English cooking and since Tudor times, there are exquisite desserts
and main dishes flavored with roses.
Popular medicine has used rose flowers for the treatment of pain, to stop diarrhea, in the treatment of
chronic gastritis, hepatitis, traumas and blood disorders (Ng TB. et al., 2004).
In the message of flowers, Black Baccara is synonymous with “crazy love” or “fatal passion”. This, together
with its dark tones, is associated to an exclusive luxury product.
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CHEMISTRY
Anthocyanosides
The term anthocyan is applied to a group of
red, pink, mauve, purple, blue or violet
colored water-soluble pigments present in
flowers and fruits. These pigments can be
found as heterosides (anthocyanosides),
whose genins (anthocyanidols) are derived
from the 2-phenylbenzopyrylium cation, more
commonly known as flavylium cation, a name
that remarks the fact that these molecules
belong to the large group of flavonoids in a
broad sense. They are generally characteristic
of the petals of flowers and fruits, although
occasionally they can also be found in the
bracts, leaves, petioles and even in the roots or bulbs of certain plants.
Black Baccara stands out from the other species of roses due to its high cyanidin content, in addition to
containing other anthocyanosides (Katsumoto, Y. et al., 2007). This anthocyanin has antioxidant and radical
scavenging effects in order to protect the flower cells against damage caused by oxidation. Given the
biological faculties found by scientists in cyanidin, it could potentially become a good chemotherapy agent
in the fight against cancer (Fimognari, C. et al. 2005). Thanks to this biological property, Black Baccara is the
most suitable type of rose for the protection of skin cells against those external agents that cause its
oxidation and aging.
Cyanidin
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Tannins
Tannins are water-soluble phenolic compounds with a molecular mass between 500 and 3000. Besides the
classic reactions of phenols, they have the property to precipitate alkaloids, gelatin and other proteins.
Nowadays, there is a better knowledge of the chemical structure of these polyphenols that are composed
by proantocyanidols, which in a hot acidic medium produce anthocyanosides, and the polyesters of gallic
and ellagic acid.
Gallic acid
Tannins are classified according to their structure and biogenetic origin. According to this classification
system, there are two types of tannins: hydrolyzable tannins and condensed tannins. Hydrolyzable tannins
are oligo- or polyesters of a sugar (or a related polyol) and a variable number of phenol acid molecules. The
sugar is generally glucose. The phenol acid is gallic acid in the case of gallic tannins and
hexahydroxydiphenic acid (HHDP) and its oxidation derivatives in the case of the so-called ellagic tannins.
Condensed tannins or proanthocyanidols are flavan polymers.
Other active principles
Amino acids and mucilage.
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COSMETIC PROPERTIES
Antioxidant activity
Anthocyanin pigments behave, in vitro, as free radical
scavengers (Bruneton J., 2001).
Numerous tannins, in particular hydrolyzable tannins,
inhibit the ADP- and ascorbic acid-induced lipid
peroxidation on liver mitochondria. Mainly, HHDP esters of
glucose, in vitro, are free radical scavengers, inhibitors of
the formation of the superoxide ion and, some of them,
inhibitors of lipoxygenase (Bruneton J., 2001).
Ng TB. et al. (2004) conducted a study where they
determined that the main antioxidant agent in rose extract
was a derivative of gallic acid (MW<2.5 KDa), while a
polysaccharide (MW<2.5KDa, 84.74% carbohydrate) and a
polysaccharide-peptide complex (MW≥70 KDa, 8.57%
carbohydrate, 23.12% protein) were components that also
had some antioxidant activity.
Guo, Q. et al. (1996) observed that the anti-free radical activity and the inhibition of lipid peroxidation of ()–epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and (-)–epicatechin-3-gallate (ECG) were stronger than those of (-)–
epicatechin (EC) and (-)–epigallocatechin (EGC). EGCG and ECG only differ from EC and EGC because they
have an extra gallic acid. This finding evidenced the relationship between structure and activity in regards to
the antioxidant activity of gallic acid derivatives.
Therefore, Black Baccara rose extract is very useful in formulating cosmetics aimed at protecting the
integrity of skin and hair.
Activity as vascular protector and venotonic
The therapeutic relevance of anthocyanosides is focused on their action on the vascular system:
compounds containing anthocyanosides are employed to treat symptoms related to vein and capillary
fragility (Bruneton J., 2001)
Anthocyans have been successfully used to treat several vascular conditions: capillary fragility (couperosis)
and chronic peripheral vein insufficiency. So far, their capillary protective ability has been attributed to their
tendency to improve the tonicity and resistance of the capillary walls and to their specific affinity to bind
compounds in the elastic fibers (collagen and elastin) thus making them resistant to the degrading action of
elastase and collagenase (Muñoz O. et al., 2003).
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Therefore, Black Baccara rose extract has a very interesting cosmetic application for the reduction of
varicose veins and edemas, in products with a draining action and as stimulant of blood circulation in
general.
Astringent activity
Dry mouth sensation occurs because tannins are capable of interacting with saliva proteins precipitating or
forming aggregates. The astringent or sour flavor of tea or wine is due to its tannin content.
Topically, tannins waterproof the outer skin layers and the mucous membranes, thereby protecting the
underlying layers. They also have a vasoconstrictor effect on small superficial vessels. By limiting the loss of
fluids and preventing external aggressions, tannins promote the regeneration of tissues (healing action) in
cases of superficial wounds or burns (Bruneton J., 2001).
This activity of tannins makes Black Baccara rose extract very useful in the field of cosmetics for the
regulation of sebum secretion.
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COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
Action
Active ingredient
Antioxidant
Tannins
Anthocyanosides
Venotonic/vascular protector
Anthocyanosides
Astringent
Tannins
Cosmetic application
Anti-aging
Photoprotective
Hair coloration protection
Anti-varicose veins
Stimulant of blood circulation in general
Sebaceous secretion regulation
RECOMMENDED DOSAGE
The recommended dosage ranges between 0.5% and 5%.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Bruneton, J. Farmacognosia. Zaragoza: Ed. Acribia, 2001; p: 351-391 (651*1 BRU).
Chen, P. et al. Mulberry anthocyanins, cyanidin 3-rutinoside and cyanidin 3-glucoside, exhibited an inhibitory
effect on the migration and invasion of a human lung cancer cell line. Cancer Letters , 2005, Volume 235 ,
Issue 2 , 248 – 259.
Fimognari, C. et al. In vitro Antitumor Activity of Cyanidin-3-O-β-Glucopyranoside. Chemotherapy
2005;51:332–335
Katsumoto, Y. et al. Engineering of the Rose Flavonoid Biosynthetic Pathway Successfully Generated BlueHued Flowers Accumulating Delphinidin. Plant Cell Physiol, 2007, 48(11): 1589–1600.
Muñoz, O. et al. Antocianos, colorantes naturales de aplicación industrial. Revista de Fitoterapia, 2003;
3(2): 147-152 (ref. 6477).
Ng TB. et al. A gallic acid derivative an polysaccharides with antioxidant activity from rose (Rosa rugosa)
flowers. JPP, 2004; 56: 537-545.
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PROVITAL. S.A.
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Gorgs Lladó, 200
08210 Barberà del Vallès
Barcelona (Spain)
Tel. (+34) 93 719 23 50
[email protected]
www.provitalgroup.com
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