Download Spark Moto Universal Wiring Harness Installation

Spark Moto Universal Wiring Harness Installation Instructions
Wire Color Coding Definitions
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Black - Any black wire will have voltage when the main ignition/toggle switch is set to
on. This is the same color used in the stock harness.
Red – The thin red wire running through the main trunk of the harness is to activate the
starter solenoid. The thicker red wire running through the secondary trunk carries power
from the battery to the ignition switch.
Green – These wires should all be grounded. They will eventually link up with the
negative terminal of the battery, either directly or via the frame.
Gray – The gray wire carries voltage from the signal relay to the right-hand control
assembly for distribution to the left and right turn signals
Yellow – The yellow wire is used to provide power to the brake light.
Pink – The pink wire is acts as the switched ground wire for the horn.
Purple – Oil pressure wire.
Blue – To be used for the right hand turn signal.
Orange – This wire is for the left hand turn signals.
White – This wire carries power from the kill switch to the ignition coils.
General Harness Information
Your custom harness will differ from the stock harness in several aspects.
First, a single inline fuse will have replaced your fuse box in order to reduce the total
number of wiring runs and to present you with a clean and slim product. Second, 18
gauge wire will have replaced many of the original 16 gauge wiring runs to further slim
the harness. High current connections (such as the headlight) can be plugged into the
thicker 14 gauge wires that are provided. Because of the change to a thinner wire,
care should be taken if you plan to disconnect your controls and components. Please
make use of needle nose pliers to grip the metal connectors, rather than pulling on the
wires. Damage to the harness may result if improper care is taken.
For those customers retaining the use of the their stock ignition switches, you will also
notice that the “Parking” position on your ignition switch is no longer used. Your
ignition switch now serves as an on/off switch only.
Next, it should be noted that your new wiring harness is only the main harness. Not
included is any additional wiring for points, electronic ignitions, the thick ground strap
wire, or the thick starter motor / solenoid wires.
Finally, those customers with bikes that have certain “safety” features such as flasher
cancelers, clutch lever sensors (for starter motors), reserve lighting relays, and other
extraneous things; they're all gone. Your machine is now leaner and meaner than it was
when it left the factory.
Installation Instructions
These installation instructions are broken down into sections and provide a rough order of
installation. Some wires within the harness may have the terminals zip-tied together.
These zip ties are only there to aid in installation and can be removed prior to running the
bike.
Main Trunk
The main body of the harness should first be laid out onto the bike in order to ensure that
all wires are capable of reaching all required components. It is most common for the
stock wiring harness to be run along the left side of the motorcycle, but layout may be
cleaner by opting for the right side so that the rear brake wires do not have to travel as far.
Charging System
A sub-harness for the charging system is an optional extra. If you have purchased only
the universal wiring harness, then you will want to reuse the charging circuit from your
bike. Depending on your model, this may require unwrapping portions of your stock
harness, and then cutting and reconnecting some wires. If you are unsure as to how to
proceed, please purchase a sub-harness of the appropriate type. Installation instructions
will be included along with the sub-harness.
Ignition Switch
If your harness retains the stock ignition switch, a connector will be provided that will
plug into the existing unit. A corresponding loose connector has been included in case
the connector on your ignition switch does not match up to the existing connector.
Turn Signals
The signal wires are be represented by three different colors. The gray will connect from
the flasher relay to the left-hand control assembly where it is connected to the turn signal
main wire. Coming out of the left hand control assembly will be left and right turn signal
wires.
The orange and blue wires in the harness will have a triple female connector on each.
The indicator lights and the front turn signals are both connected here. The left and right
rear turn signals can be connected at this time, in the single female connectors at the rear
of the harness.
Gauges
Most gauge types will include an internal light that requires power. The black wire in the
harness provides power to the gauge backlights as well as power for the neutral and oil
pressure lights. The neutral light's negative side should be connected to the brown wire
within the harness and the oil light's negative side should be connected to the purple wire
within the harness. All other gauge lights should have a connection to the green ground
wire.
Headlight
The power for the headlight is connected to the existing wires from your left-hand control
assembly. The ground wire from the headlight should connect to the thick green wire in
the harness.
Left-Hand Control Assembly
After connecting your turn signals in an earlier step, the only remaining wires should be
the horn and the hi/low switch. The hi/low switch will have an input wire which should
be connected to the thick black wire in the harness. The two output wires connect to the
high and low beam circuits in the headlight. For the horn, the pink wire within the
harness carries power from the horn to the button and the button should be setup to
ground out the connection to complete the circuit.
Right-Hand Control Assembly
The right hand control assembly should contain switches for the brake, starter solenoid,
and ignition coils. The brake and the kill switch will each need a connection to the black
wire within the harness. The second wire from the brake switch connects to the spare
yellow in the harness and the second wire from the kill switch connects to the white wire
within the harness. The final wire is the red wire for the starter button. The starter button
should be configured to ground this wire when the button is pressed.
Tail Light
The tail light and brake light can now be connected. The running light from the tail light
can be connected to the black wire in the harness. The brake light should be connected to
the yellow wire. The green wire in the harness is provided for supplemental purposes .
Ground the tail light, turn signals, and brake light to the frame when possible.
Battery
At this time, the battery can now be connected. Begin by ensuring that the ignition is
switched to the off position.
Now connect the positive terminal of the battery by running both the positive wire and
the red wire from the in-line fuse to the positive terminal from the battery.
Next, connect the thick wires from the battery's positive terminal to the starter solenoid.
Finally, the thick ground strap wire for the battery's negative terminal can be connected
between the frame and the battery.
Attaching Connectors
Your universal harness comes with some additional connectors to help ensure that your
stock parts can be reused whenever possible.
To attach these new connectors, it will be necessary to cut the old connectors from any
existing places where they are to be replaced. After the connectors have been cut, use
wire strippers to remove approximately 1/8” of insulation from each of the wire. Crimp
the metal terminals onto each wire such that one set of tabs wraps around the
insulation and the next set of wraps around the wire. A successful crimp will look
like this:
After all wires have been crimped, push them into the supplied plastic connectors,
ensuring that each wire ends up in the appropriate slot.
Testing Functionality
The harness is now ready for testing. Begin by ensuring your battery is fully charged and
reading at least 12.1VDC with a multimeter (12.5V would be better).
Next, ensure all switches are turned to the off position (turn signal, kill switch, high
beam, etc). At this point, you can now switch on the main ignition switch. All of the
running lights, head light (low beam), and gauge lights should come on.
You can now test other functionality such as the high beam, turn signals, and brake lights.
Finally, the coils themselves, can be tested. Turn the kill switch to the “on” position and
kick the bike over (or use the electric start). Assuming the bike is in a state to run, it
should start. If the bike is not yet ready to run, simply check for spark by removing the
spark plugs and hold each plug to bare metal while trying to start the bike (you may need
an extra set of hands if you’re using the kick starter). The plug should spark between the
center electrode and side strap.
If, at any time during your testing, your fuse blows, then you have a short circuit. Turn
off the ignition switch and unplug all of your connections. Turn the ignition switch on
with all the connections unplugged and ensure that a fresh fuse does not blow. Connect a
single control at a time, ensuring the fuse is in good condition after each connection.
After all of the connections have been successfully made, test each control, one at a time.